Leaves by season
Leaves garden strawberries updated three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. They work actively from 40 to 80 days. Regrown in the spring feed the bushes from April to June inclusive, and then, having grown old, gradually die off. After fruiting, spring ones are replaced by summer ones.
The former are important for the fruiting of the current year, the latter for laying flower buds and accumulating nutrients for the future. Then the so-called autumn leaves that go into the winter. With good and stable snow cover, most of them remain until spring. Each gardener must decide for himself whether or not to mow old leaves. Much depends on the condition of the beds and how much time you are willing to devote to caring for strawberries.
I mow because I think they carry a lot of infection. But not at the end of summer, but immediately
after harvest. Timely removal of leaves from the plantation (before the spores fly) significantly reduces the harm from disease, and also prevents re-infection. And it is also important for me that this technique greatly suppresses the growth of mustaches. I do not mow leaves only on strawberry beds of the first year of use.
The procedure itself does not take much time: we take a benzoko-su and mow a bed at a height of 5-7 cm. At the same time, old leaves are almost completely removed and neither the horns nor the growth points are damaged.
The mowed mass is usually sent to compost. Strawberry beds are well watered and fed with a solution of chicken manure (1:15). strawberries good
reacts to it and immediately begins to actively recover. For top dressing, you can use any complex fertilizers (15-20 g / sq.m), it is better if they are with trace elements.
No bare roots!
A good technique is the hilling of strawberry bushes, especially from the 3rd year of life. I also do it after mowing the leaves, combining it with loosening the soil after watering and liquid top dressing. At the same time, I make sure that the heart is not covered with earth.
At the end of August, I pour a 3-4 cm layer of mulch around each bush. I use leaf humus for this. It serves not only as a fertilizer, but also is a heater for the winter, and in the spring it does not allow the roots to become bare.
Strawberry drones - out!
Weed varieties are often found on strawberry plantings.
They either do not produce a crop at all, or bring low - small and non-marketable berries. Such bushes, not burdened with a harvest, throw all their strength into reproduction. Like weeds, they suppress a large-fruited variety. Therefore, it is important to notice the appearance of these weeds in time and destroy them.
On a note
Removal of strawberry leaves is indicated for early and mid-season varieties. It is undesirable to mow the leaves of the later ones, they may not have time to grow them before frost, which will significantly reduce the yield next year. It is also not used for remontant and day-neutral varieties of strawberries, which will have a second fruiting in the fall, lasting until late autumn.
Practical advice
Do not leave overripe or damaged berries on the beds. Usually they serve as a source of clogging of plantings with seedlings.
How often to renew a strawberry plantation
I have been using fruit-bearing strawberry bushes for no more than three years, not counting the year of planting. I update my plantation usually no later than the second half of August. Young rosettes planted at this time have time to form not only well-developed roots and leaves before winter, but also under conditions short day lay flower buds.
I plant strawberries in the garden in one line. In the first year of growing on the bushes, I remove all the whiskers, except for one or two. In the second year, I repeat the same. I send young sockets to free places. Of these, independently rooted, the most productive bushes grow. The result is long ribbons of strawberries. If I don’t plan to replace varieties, then I use second-year sockets to create new beds. If there is another planting material, I remove all the formed mustaches after harvesting the second crop. On the 3rd and 4th year of cultivation, I remove all the whiskers.
With a mustache!
So that my favorite varieties of strawberries do not degenerate, during fruiting I plan the most fruitful bushes, in the future I take mustaches for laying a future plantation only from these “mothers”. I separate the sockets immediately after rooting and plant them on a separate bed. Those that were aged for 10-12 hours in a solution of zircon (1 ml per 2 liters of water) are very well accepted.
Note
The most powerful rosettes in the garden usually give bushes lightly loaded with berries. In abundantly bearing fruits, they grow more modestly. Therefore, to obtain high-quality seedlings, it is better to plant queen cells on a separate bed and remove flower stalks from them. Or take sockets only from the intended copies.
Who disfigures strawberry bushes
Strawberry transparent mite most dangerous pest strawberries. Most often damages leaves, especially young ones.
As a result, they curl and acquire a yellowish-oily hue, flower stalks become dwarfed, and berries become small. The more pests, the uglier the bushes. Mite breeding is facilitated by warm and humid weather.
It is good to use an infusion of onion peel against strawberry mites: pour 200 g into 10 liters of warm water and insist for 4-5 days, then strain the infusion and use for spraying.
You can also prepare an infusion from the onion itself: chop 100 g of onions, place in a tightly sealed container, pour 10 liters of water and insist for 6-7 hours.
Another method is reliable: weed the affected plantation, removing excess mustaches and diseased leaves (you need to remove them from the plants along with the petioles, it is at the base of the leaf petioles that adult female ticks overwinter), then sprinkle the bushes abundantly with an infusion of crushed garlic 0.5 kg pour 3 l of water, use 300 g of extract per watering can.
After harvesting, chemical treatments are also carried out. The plantation is sprayed after mowing the leaves with one of the preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Fitoverm.
You can finally get rid of the pest by laying beds in a new place. All seedlings (after washing the roots from the soil and tying them in bunches) are immersed in a container with water heated to 45’C before planting.
It is kept in it for 13-15 minutes, after which the sockets are immediately cooled in cold water.
The first two weeks, strawberry plantings will look ugly, but then they will noticeably cheer up.
N. SOLONOVICH, scientist agronomist
I met different opinions about whether it is necessary to cut off the mustache and leaves of the garden strawberry after it has borne fruit. Please advise how to proceed?
D. Dymova Lipetsk Region
The post-harvest period requires special attention, since it is very important in the life of strawberries. At this time, the growth of leaves, horns, roots resumes, flower buds are laid, i.e. next year's crop is being formed. Therefore, timely and high-quality plant care is now needed (weeding, top dressing, watering, removal of whiskers, loosening the soil, pest and pathogen control).
When the harvest of strawberries is harvested, it is best to remove the mustache from the bushes so that they do not deplete the mother plant and do not interfere with the laying of flower buds. However, the mustache with rosettes with which you are going to propagate the variety must be left, and remember that the first and second rosettes closest to the mother plant are considered the strongest.
Whether to remove leaves along with the mustache is an ambiguous question.
In the southern regions, the removal of leaves immediately after harvesting berries is an agricultural technique that increases yields. This is due to the fact that in the conditions of the south the post-harvest period is long and favorable for the development of plants.
If you cut the leaves before July 15 and feed and water the plants well, then leaves and roots will begin to actively form, and flower buds will be laid. By autumn, such plants will develop a strong aboveground and root system, which will positively affect the next year's harvest.
In the northern regions, mowing strawberry leaves during this period gives negative results, as the plants do not have time to prepare well for the next year's harvest. So in middle lane this technique should be carried out only if the plants are badly damaged by the strawberry mite.
Then mow and burn the leaves as quickly as possible, right after picking the berries. If the strawberries are not damaged by a tick, then the leaves should not be removed after harvesting in the central regions of the non-chernozem zone, otherwise the plants will not have time to develop a sufficient leaf apparatus and lay flower buds before the onset of cold weather.
But in the old leaves and stems of strawberries, by autumn, a large amount of soluble sugars and starch accumulates, thanks to which the plants successfully form flower buds, winter well and next year give a high yield.
L. PODLESNAYA, agronomist
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June-July is the time when strawberries thank us for their care. We are reaping the fruits of our labors, but do not think that after the harvest, you can forget about the berry beds. In August and September, plants need even more help and protection than in spring. It is at the end of summer - autumn that the laying of the next year's crop takes place.
What to do with strawberries after harvest
You need to start leaving at the end of July - August, the earliest - when the last berries are still hanging on the bushes, and at the latest - 2 weeks after harvesting:
- Cut off the old coarsened leaves, leaving 5-7 of the topmost young ones in the bush. Do this even if there are no signs of illness. So you thin out the plants, improve their ventilation and help the strawberries renew their leaves. Indeed, in August, the second wave of growth of green mass begins.
Cutting entire leaves is a last resort. The bush will direct all its forces to the restoration of the tops, and not to the laying of flower buds. Cardinal pruning to stumps is justified only in two cases: all strawberries are severely affected by diseases and pests, or the plantation is too large, overgrown, it is impossible to cut each bush.
- If you left your mustache to root in July, in August it's time to dress them from the mother plant and plant them in a separate bed. All other mustaches must be removed as they grow.
- After trimming the leaves and mustaches, feed with nitrogen fertilizer, but in a lower concentration than in spring, for example, instead of 1 tbsp. l. ammonium nitrate, take 0.5 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water. Many gardeners use weed infusion at this time. Combine top dressing with watering.
- Keep the soil under the strawberries constantly moist and loose until the first frost. This is also important for laying flower buds. To make the job easier, use mulch or grow strawberries on a spunbond. Install a drip irrigation system.
- Treat for pests and diseases. Use proven tools. Each gardener has their own. Many prefer folk recipes, for example, from Khrushchev - ammonia (40-50 g per 10 liters under the root), from diseases - brilliant green (40 drops per bucket). But it is more reliable to use fungicides (Scor, HOM, Arcerid, etc.) and insecticides (Aktara, Karbofos, Fufanon, etc.). Perform two treatments 10-14 days apart.
- In September, when the bushes recover and become lush again, apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate for each square meter beds. You can use ash - 1-2 tbsp. l. under the bush Distribute the fertilizer evenly, loosen and water. Phosphorus and potassium also have a positive effect on the yield of the next year, and in addition, they help strawberries to winter better.
Do not apply fertilizers containing nitrogen in the fall, they will provoke another growth of greenery. Bushes with tender young leaves will freeze.
- With the advent of stable cold weather, when frosts begin to shackle the surface of the earth, cover the strawberries with straw, dry tops of vegetables, dill stalks, agrofibre and other warming materials.
This year, after harvesting, I plan to start transplanting young bushes to another place. Last summer I planted seedlings in the sunniest area near the house. I wanted the best, but early in the spring the snow melted there first of all. Strawberries stood in puddles during the day, and in ice at night. Several bushes died, I want to transplant the rest to the middle of the site. There is also a row that has fallen into the shadow of the fence, where the situation is reversed - the snow melts for a long time, the earth warms up slowly, strawberries bloom and bear fruit later, get sick. I will be transplanting it too.
After harvesting, there comes a period when the bushes, if necessary, can be transplanted to another place.
It is best to transplant adult bushes immediately after trimming excess leaves and mustaches. Plants become compact, evaporate less moisture, take root faster in a new place. Do not forget the rule: every 4 years you need to move the entire strawberry plantation to another place. But for this, take not old bushes, but rosettes obtained by rooting mustaches in July.
Video: strawberry care in the second half of summer - autumn
Features of caring for remontant strawberries
Remontant strawberries bear fruit all summer. After the first harvest, a dormant period begins for 2-3 weeks and the next wave begins. The berries grow and ripen until frost, so intensive care is required:
- Immediately after harvest, cut off old flower stalks and leaves with damage and spots. It is impossible to mow all the foliage and radically thin out the bushes. Strawberries need strength to lay the next crop, so it needs to be injured to a minimum.
- Be careful with mustaches: some varieties do not produce new ones after pruning. Therefore, read about the characteristics of your variety and decide how much mustache you need to leave. There are strawberries, which, on the contrary, grow mustaches all season and even give an additional crop on them. In this case, there will be a lot of berries, but small ones. In addition, it will be difficult for you to clear the bed later, it will be all overgrown.
- Keep the soil moist and always under mulch to keep the ever-growing berries from touching the damp soil.
- Feed every 10-14 days with a complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements, such as Fertika, Agricola, etc.
- From diseases and pests, use only biological products: Trichodermin, Planriz, Gaupsin, etc.
- In early September, cut off diseased leaves, as well as all flower stalks along with growing and ripening berries. Bushes should go into the winter stronger, so they need rest before the onset of cold weather.
- After trimming, feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
- Before the onset of frost, make charging watering, and with their arrival, cover the strawberry beds for the winter.
Video: caring for remontant strawberries
Be sure to handle strawberries after harvest. Do not leave it to grow weeds and stained with diseases. Without proper care, the bushes are quickly depleted, may freeze in the winter or be of low yield next summer.
Strawberry- the common name of the plant and berries nutmeg strawberries (lat. Fragaria moschata = Fragaria elatior) which became widespread in the 20th century. The very word "strawberry" is derived from the old Russian "club", which in ancient times meant something round, spherical. Musky strawberries, she is also nutmeg strawberries, she is also high or Spanish strawberries, and sometimes just shpanka, she is tall, garden, real, European strawberries - a herbaceous perennial of the genus Strawberry of the Pink family. Often referred to as strawberries garden strawberries, or large-fruited, or pineapple (lat. Fragaria × ananassa)- well, in different decades, either nutmeg strawberries or pineapple strawberries were massively cultivated in the gardens - both were called strawberries or “victoria” (after the name of the popular variety). Now most often they grow nutmeg strawberries, so now it is strawberries. This berry has been known to mankind since antiquity - references to it were found in Egyptian and Greek written documents, and even in Virgil. Nowadays, this berry is mostly cultivated in Europe and in both Americas.
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Strawberry bushes - description
Strawberries - grassy perennial, the bushes of which reach a height of 15-35 cm. The stems of strawberries are erect, pubescent with a glandular pile. Strawberry leaves are trifoliate, large, light green in color. Strawberry flowering looks attractive - white five-petal flowers with a double perianth are collected in corymbose inflorescences of 5-12 pieces. The so-called strawberry is actually an overgrown receptacle with numerous small nut fruits located on its surface. Strawberries have a sweet-sour taste and a pleasant aroma.
Fruiting time for strawberries
The flowering and fruiting of strawberries has no clear time limits - each variety has its own. In varieties with one-time fruiting, the active period is very short. Early varieties begin to bear fruit in May. One of the most early varieties, Alba and Lambada, bear fruit from the second decade of May to early June, the fruits of the Darselect and Hani varieties ripen a little later, followed by Crown, Eliani, Polka, Elsanta each with a shift of 3-4 days. All these varieties begin fruiting in May, but there are more late varieties- June and July: strawberries in June are varieties Symphony, Florence, Victoriani, and strawberries in July are Malvina.
Remontant varieties, or varieties of a neutral day, vegetating almost to frost and fruiting several times during this period, also differ in terms of fruiting, but such strawberries begin to ripen in the summer. For example, Portola strawberry picking starts only in August and lasts until mid-November, Flamenco varieties - from mid-August to mid-December, and varieties such as Albion, Marling Pearl and Opal Pearl bear fruit from July to December.
Next, we will tell you how to care for strawberries from the moment fruiting stops until the time when all life in the garden stops altogether - how to water strawberries, when and how to feed her, Do I need to cut it and how to do it.
Strawberries after harvest - care
Watering strawberries
Cultivation of strawberries does not end at the moment when berries stop appearing on the bushes. Even after the harvest is harvested, strawberry care continues. After all, strawberries do not stop growing and developing after harvesting, so one of important points care for it is to moisten the soil on the site. How often to water strawberries so that she can recover, get stronger and build up the buds for the next harvest? It is necessary to water infrequently, about once a week or a decade, but abundantly so that the soil is saturated with moisture deeper - surface watering will not bring any benefit.
weeding strawberries
After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil in the area to a depth of 10 cm, but use the chopper more carefully near the bushes - do not damage root system. During loosening, spud strawberry bushes, sprinkling the growing adventitious roots with earth. Simultaneously with loosening, remove the emerging weeds. Make sure that the beds for strawberries are not overgrown with grass. Remove the weeds in the aisles, and then pour any small rubbish into the passages cleared of grass - sawdust, dry branches, chips, etc. This measure will prevent overgrowing of the area with strawberries with weeds. Later, in the fall, you will have to weed the weeds again, but there will be much less of them if you do the main work of destroying them in the summer, immediately after picking the berries.
Top dressing strawberries
How to feed strawberries
Well proven organic fertilizer for strawberries - horse manure, humus or mullein. Strawberries also respond well to the introduction of chicken manure as a top dressing. You can also use more modern means- mineral fertilizers, for example, ammophos, which includes nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as magnesium, sulfur and calcium. It is highly undesirable to apply chlorine-containing fertilizers, since strawberries do not tolerate chlorine well.
How to fertilize strawberries
Immediately after removing weeds and loosening the soil, spread small pieces of mullein or horse manure around the site. All subsequent waterings and rains will gradually dissolve these substances, release microelements from them and deliver them deep into the soil, to the strawberry roots. But the method of fertilizing the site with chicken manure is much faster. To do this, fresh litter in a ratio of 1:20 is diluted in water, mixing thoroughly, and the composition is poured under the strawberry bushes. Consumption is approximately the following: one bucket for 8-10 strawberry bushes.
If you decide to use mineral fertilizers, scatter them over the garden, dig into the ground with a chopper, and then water the area. So that after moistening the soil a crust does not form on its surface, mulch the area with strawberries with peat or pine needles. In the future, you can loosen the soil and water the strawberries through the mulch.
pruning strawberries
When to prune strawberries
Do not put off pruning strawberries until the fall, do it immediately after the strawberries have ceased to bear fruit. As for remontant varieties, it is better not to cut the bushes that bear fruit the first year at all, removing only weak or diseased leaves and mustaches, if the variety you grow forms them. Remontant strawberries are cultivated only for a year or two, then their yield decreases markedly, and the berries become smaller.
How to prune strawberries after harvest
Remove bushes from the site that will no longer bear fruit - in their place you can still have time to grow some later crop this year. From those bushes that will bear fruit next year, you need to cut off all the foliage at a height of 10 cm from the ground, and also remove the strawberry mustache. Do not worry that the strawberries were left without leaves after pruning - before winter, they will still have time to build them up.
Strawberry processing - prevention
How to treat strawberries for diseases
In the fight to ensure that strawberry diseases and pests do not deprive you of your berry harvest, the best remedy- scrupulous observance of the agrotechnical conditions for its cultivation, because strawberry diseases are a consequence of a violation of the rules for caring for it. However, there are times when strawberries get sick, even if you follow all the rules. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of strawberries from diseases, and this should be done in the fall. It is best to spray strawberries and the area with nitrofen - this drug will destroy all pathogenic viruses and fungi on strawberries and in the ground.
In order for the strawberry harvest to increase each subsequent year, it is important to take care of the berry not only during flowering and fruiting, but also after harvesting. Experienced gardeners understand how important it is in what condition it will "go" for the winter.
Caring for strawberries in August
August is a very important month for strawberry growers. It is during this period that you need to audit the strawberries. If it was planted 4 years ago, then it is enough to weed the berry, removing dry and rotten leaves. Fertilizers for 4-year-old bushes are no longer applied, since the fifth year is the last for strawberries. No matter how good the harvest she gave last summer, the side shoots are not able to replace the outdated root system. Even if the owners decided to leave the plot with strawberries in the same place, top dressing is not required.
When it is planned to break down strawberries in a new place, then the sockets already rooted by August are transferred to a permanent “place of residence”. For digging, 3–4 kg should be applied for each square meter. humus, 40 gr. superphosphate and 0.5 l. ash. Each "freshly planted" bush is mulched with peat. Berry bushes 2-3 years old are loosened, gently hilled, so as not to fill up the growing point. You can start preparing the berries for winter as early as early August, without waiting for the autumn cold.
Since the roots of strawberries become exposed over time, they need to be spudded. Hilling favorably affects the development of lateral root appendages. Bushes no older than 4 years of age should be fertilized and snow retention conditions created for them. Although strawberries are a cold-resistant culture, by autumn it is better to mulch each bush with sawdust, spruce branches, fallen leaves or straw with a layer of 5 cm, and remove all this in spring. Frost that has descended on the ground not covered with snow is dangerous for strawberries.
How to feed strawberries after fruiting
You can feed strawberries after fruiting with both mineral and organic fertilizers, but preference should be given to the latter. It can be an infusion of mullein or chicken manure. Mullein is diluted with water 8 times, and chicken manure 10 times. Wood ash is added in August at the rate of 150 gr. for every square metre. It can be scattered dry over strawberry bushes or cooked water solution and pour 0.5 liters into each well. Other fertilizers are also applied directly into each hole or into furrows 8-10 cm deep, made in the middle of the beds.
After fertilizing, the berry must be well watered. So that the earth gets wet to a depth of 30 cm. It is at this depth that the roots of strawberries are located. If you feed strawberries in August with urea (30 g per 10 liters of water), this will help increase the number of flower buds, and, therefore, the crop. Some gardeners successfully use nettle infusion for autumn feeding of strawberries. To prepare it, a bucket of nettles is poured with warm water and insisted for a week. Then a liter of infusion is diluted 10 times before watering. Practice shows that strawberries respond to such fertilizer with an increase in the next year's harvest and enlargement of berries.
