At present, building technologies are developing so rapidly and new materials are appearing that you can meet a real Russian bath (not in name, but in fact) only in remote villages. We consider it necessary, before directly considering the question of how to make ventilation in a Russian bath, to remind developers what a traditional Russian bath is, how they bathe in it, what are the conditions for temperature and humidity. This knowledge will help to solve the assigned tasks correctly and not turn the traditional Russian bath into an ordinary “washing-steam room” or a mixture of baths of various peoples.
Russian bath - steam room in white
Russian baths with a firebox in white
The first mention of Russian baths appeared in the Novgorod chronicles at the beginning of the 11th century. In those days, the baths were heated "in a black way". There was no chimney, the smoke came out of the steam room through the open doors. After heating, the bathhouse was ventilated for several minutes, then the doors to the steam room were closed, the room was heated again from the stove and the bathhouse was ready to receive people.
Bath in black - photo
Such baths are unlikely to be found today, but there are quite a lot of more advanced traditional Russian baths.
We will talk about these baths in detail, only knowing all the secrets of a real Russian bath will give you the opportunity to make effective ventilation in it and preserve originality. What did a traditional Russian banya look like?
Russian bath - photo
Foundation
In our understanding, the foundation was missing. Large stones were laid at the corners of the structure, they held the weight of the entire structure. Between the large stones lay small ones, they almost did not perceive any load, they were used only as a protective obstacle from the wind. In winter, one or two crowns of the bath were covered with snow, in this way the floor was insulated. By the way, by filling with snow several lower rims of the log house, they were insulated and village huts and cellars in them.
Stones are the foundation
log cabin
The bath was made of thick logs; dry moss was used for interventional insulation. Until now, this material of interventional insulation in all respects is considered one of the best. Moss was harvested in the spring on moss, dried all summer, and only then used during the construction of the log house.
Logs were prepared only in winter, deadwood was often used. If there was no natural deadwood nearby, it was prepared independently. The bark around the selected tree was removed, the tree died and stood in the forest in this state for at least a year. The sanded material was additionally dried before use.
For floors, the logs were sawn in half, the water went into the cracks. A thick floor could stand for decades in any conditions, no one cared about special additional protection from decay processes.
The same sawn logs served as the ceiling. The bath had dimensions within 2 × 3 meters and consisted of only two rooms - a steam room and a small dressing room. The ceiling was only in the steam room, the dressing room had no ceiling, the temperature in the dressing room was equal to the air temperature. Men were the first to go to wash, they undressed / dressed in a cold dressing room. Women and children undressed / dressed directly in the steam room. The steam room had one small window and a little more window installed in the dressing room.
Shelves necessarily had two tiers, those who could withstand high temperatures steamed on the second tier, and children and the elderly on the first or on the floor. A broom was used as a "fan". Without a broom and a large amount of steam, a Russian bath is unthinkable.
Roof
Dvuhskatnaya under shingles. Shingles, by the way, served thirty or forty years. In comparison, modern "innovative materials" rarely have a useful life of more than fifteen years. Today, the torch is back in fashion, only there is one significant difference - if earlier it was roofing material for the poorest, it is now exactly the opposite.
Bake
The most important element of the Russian bath. The stove was large, the dimensions occupied up to a third of the entire steam room.
It was made of bricks, a large cast-iron vat for water was embedded on top, with a capacity of at least one hundred liters. The vat not only heated water to a boil, it acted as a heat accumulator and could long time warm up the steam room. Next to the stove there was a barrel for cold water, if the vat boiled, then it was topped up cold water from a barrel. As the bath is heated, the water in the barrel with cold water gradually diluted with boiling water from a vat and heated.
The stove was placed in the chimney. Often it was a common iron barrel about 40 cm in diameter, access to the stones was provided by a separate door. Above the stove was a chimney with a damper. When all the firewood in the bath burned out, the gate closed and water was splashed on the stones with a ladle for steam.
The temperature in the bath was relatively low, about +50°, the effect of heat was achieved due to the humidity of the air, it reached 90%. We know from school that humid air conducts heat much better than dry air. If in a dry Finnish bath you can withstand temperatures up to + 110 ° more, then in a Russian bath under such conditions a person will literally boil.
How the Russian bath was ventilated
At the time of acceptance water procedures sometimes the doors from the steam room to the dressing room were slightly opened. But these actions were carried out not for ventilation as such, but to lower the temperature and humidity.
After washing, the steam room door opened completely and the moisture came out right through the roof - there was no ceiling in the dressing room. Of course, such ventilation was ineffective, especially in winter period time. Frost and ice appeared on the walls, wooden structures almost never dried completely. Only in the summer period it was possible to really dry the wooden structures. As you can see, the operating conditions of wooden structures, even with all the desire, cannot be called favorable. But due to the large thickness and high quality of lumber, the bath served for several decades. Then they took it apart and put in a new one. Or they raised and changed the lower crowns and flooring.
Why did we talk in such detail about real traditional Russian baths? Only knowing the principles of their functioning, you can make ventilation in such a way as not to lose the main thing - the merits and differences of the folk bath.
What should the ventilation of the Russian bath provide?
We hope that now you understand what criteria should be used to ventilate a Russian bath so as not to turn it into a “warm washroom”. To be sure, let's list its tasks again, ventilation should:
- maintain the temperature in the steam room within + 50 ÷ 60 ° С;
- relative air humidity within 70÷90%;
- dry wooden structures as quickly as possible at the end of the adoption of bath procedures;
- if necessary, ventilation should quickly lower the humidity in the room without creating unpleasant drafts and without opening the steam room doors;
- be versatile and multifunctional, work equally effectively in summer and winter. And at the same time, of course, to preserve all the features of the Russian bath.
A few words should be said about the "purification of air from exhaust" gases. As for carbon monoxide, no amount of ventilation will help if it constantly enters the room. It is necessary to ensure that the firewood is completely burned out, there are no smoldering embers left in the firebox, and only after that close the stove damper. Ventilation is able to remove carbon monoxide already present in the room, provided that it no longer enters.
Now about "oxygen". You can find many articles on the Internet in which "bath experts" are concerned about the ventilation of the steam room in order to supply oxygen. We will not delve too deeply into this issue, let's just say one thing - per minute at maximum physical activity a person inhales no more than 10 liters of air, one cubic meter is enough for 100 minutes (more than an hour and a half). Now calculate the volume of the steam room, it is at least 2 m (width) × 3 m (length) × 2 m (height) = 12 m3. This is a supply of air for one person for almost twenty hours, or for twenty people for an hour. We no longer mention that you can breathe air with a lower oxygen content. Do any of us steam longer? Not? Then let's not bother ourselves with "oxygen starvation in the steam room." Moreover, during a decrease in temperature, fresh air will enter the bath without our calculations.
So, the goals of ventilation in the Russian bath are already clear, let's consider the means to achieve it. There are only two of them - with the help of natural or forced ventilation.
The simplest from a technical point of view, but the most difficult for combing from an engineering point of view, ventilation. The fact is that there are quite a few unpredictable and independent factors that affect specifications ventilation. We list only a few variables that affect natural ventilation.
- The difference between the air temperature in the street and in the bath.
- The difference between the relative humidity of the air in the street and in the bath.
- The specific location of the ventilation inlet and outlet openings.
- Features of the location of the outlet on the front wall of the bath.
- Direction of the wind.
- Structural characteristics of air gratings.
For a Russian bath, it is enough to have a maximum change of six volumes of air per hour. This will allow you to quickly lower, if necessary, the temperature and humidity and create optimal modes for drying the premises. The fact is that in winter it is impossible to ventilate very quickly, the room will cool down and the rate of evaporation of moisture from wooden structures will greatly slow down, and then completely stop.
Practitioner heat engineers propose to calculate the cross section of the inlet and outlet openings at the rate of 20 cm2 per cubic meter of the room. For example, if a steam room has dimensions of 3 × 3 × 2 (length, width and height) = 18 m3, then the conditional diameter of the air duct passage should be approximately 360 cm2. Of course, this is a very simplified approach, but in practice it works perfectly, for a more accurate calculation there is no need to involve large and expensive teams of "scientific institutes and design organizations."
One more note. It is desirable that the air inlet is located on the windy side, and the outlet is on the opposite side. Unfortunately, this is not always possible due to various reasons. In this case, it is recommended to close decorative lattices conical caps, they minimize the risks of a significant reduction in thrust due to backwater by external air flows.
With the theory sorted out, let's move on to practice.
How to make natural ventilation in a Russian bath
Step 1. Decide on the specific location of the inlet and outlet.
The entrance of fresh air should be done at a distance of about 10 ÷ 20 centimeters above the floor, preferably behind the stove. If the holes are behind the stove, then the cold air will warm up a little before entering the room. This is first. Secondly, hitting an obstacle, the air flow loses its strength, which eliminates the appearance of drafts on the floor. The presence of drafts in the steam room is an extremely unpleasant phenomenon.
The outlet must be made under the ceiling diagonally from the inlet.
You can find advice to make an outlet hole in the ceiling, but we do not recommend this option. On the one hand, the attic protects it from the wind, the risks of a critical decrease in thrust are excluded, which is a plus. But in other way, rafter system will be constantly wet, this is a minus. The minus is much more significant than the plus, it's not worth the risk wooden structures roofs.
Ceiling outlet is not the best option
Step 2 Purchase materials. You will need pieces of square or round ductwork, adjustable decorative grilles, sealant, mineral wool, and hardware. The vents can be round or square, this does not affect the efficiency in any way, be guided only by your preferences.
Mineral wool prices
mineral wool
Step 3 Make holes in the walls. You can use two methods.
- Manual. A drill drills holes around the perimeter of the ventilation duct. Drill them as often as possible, the drill should be strictly perpendicular to the wall. The size of the hole should be 1÷2 centimeters larger around the perimeter than the size of the duct. Next, with a chisel and a chisel, gradually select the jumpers remaining between the holes. The work is hard, “sad” and long. For such purposes, professionals use a gasoline saw, the holes are sawn through the end of the tire. But this method grossly violates safety regulations, we do not recommend using it. It is better to lose more time than your health.
- Mechanical. For round holes you can use crowns - special metal cutters for wood. They have one limitation - the maximum diameter of most tool manufacturers does not exceed 120 mm. But for baths this is not a problem, if the steam room is very large, then you can make several holes and close them with one decorative lattice.
Video - Crowns on wood
If the walls of your bath are not made of wood, but of concrete or brick, it is better to use the drilling method, the stages of which are shown in the image below.
Very important. Take all possible measures to prevent rainwater from entering the log house in the openings. To do this, the grilles on the outside must be tightly closed; for thorough sealing, foam the space around the holes and with the sheathing.
The location of the inlet air duct under the shelf is allowed. The advantage of this solution is that ventilation becomes invisible. Minus - very inconvenient to open / close the vent.
Before starting work, check the tool for serviceability. The chisel and chisel must be sharpened - you will have to cut the wood across the fibers, and this is very difficult. Take your time and don't try to make a hole all the way down one side of the wall: the deeper the hole, the harder it is to work.
The crucial moment is the marking of the hole on the other side of the bath. You can do it this way:
- first drill with a small diameter drill through hole, hold the drill only perpendicularly;
- further from the central hole in a circle, drill new ones. If you get it right, then the thickness of the beam will be small, the end of the drill will fall into the already made channel. If you make a mistake, the thickness of the beam will increase, stop further drilling in this place. To make it easier to control the drilling depth, you can use a special factory drill stop. There is no stop - with ordinary insulating tape or tape, wind the strip on the drill at the desired distance from its end.
Do not try to make the walls of the hole perfectly even, the main thing is that there is a gap between them and the pipe for mineral wool. Put the cotton around the perimeter tightly, during the installation of the pipe, make sure that it does not cling to the end of the insulation.
Video - A hole in a log of large diameter
To fix the pipe in the hole, use mounting foam, foam the gap between the pipe and the wall of the bath as deep as possible.
Step 4 Insert air ducts into the holes, take all technological measures to insulate and seal them. Cover the openings with bars.
Prices for air ducts
duct
This work is completed. For complete confidence in the functioning of the ventilation system, it is worth checking it. To do this, fully open the inlet and outlet. Bring a piece of burning paper to the fresh air inlet and see how fast the smoke is drawn in and how it spreads throughout the volume of the steam room. The presence of smoke will make the air currents visible, it will be possible to roughly recognize the problem areas and take measures to eliminate them. Problem areas are places where air currents move too fast or do not move at all, the so-called "dead zones".
Video - Assembly procedure for external ventilation grilles
How to make forced ventilation in a Russian bath
The main advantage of forced ventilation is complete independence from weather conditions and the ability to adjust the air flow rate depending on the microclimate in the steam room. As for the cost, it increases slightly, the price of ordinary fans is available to absolutely every developer.
Modern fans can adjust the speed of rotation of the blades - the intensity of ventilation changes. In addition, some can be controlled by remote controls, and the air vent closes automatically after the fan is turned off.
For Russian baths, there are some restrictions on the use of electrical equipment - high humidity puts forward strict requirements for the protection class of the body. Practitioners do not advise installing fans at the air outlet - the operating conditions are too difficult there. It is better to install a fan at the inlet, but one condition must be observed. The fact is that the speed of the air flow is very significant, cold air can create very unfavorable zones in the steam room. To prevent this from happening, install the fan only behind the stove, this will allow you to break the jet, the supply of fresh air into the room will be more gentle. You should not install a fan under the shelf, cold air at the feet does not increase the comfort of bath procedures.
Conclusion
There is no general recipe for ventilation for all types of baths, you must be able to make decisions on your own, taking into account individual architectural features space and personal preference. But in any case, you need to make every effort so that ventilation increases the comfort of staying in the bath, and not vice versa.
And the last. There are a few general rules to keep in mind:
- the more complex any design, the more likely it is to fail, the more difficult it is to make, the more problematic it is to maintain;
- not everything that is complex is considered the most efficient to use. Quite often, simple natural ventilation with a “window” in a steam room will do its job no worse than forced ventilation with a remote control.
Advice should be heeded, but final decisions should be made independently and be held accountable for them. And for this, one cannot do without a certain baggage of theoretical and practical knowledge. It is for this purpose that in the article we tried to consider the problems of the Russian bath ventilation device from various angles and offered several solutions at your discretion.
Video - Ventilation in the sauna
The temperature background and the high level of moisture in the bath are favorable conditions for the settlement of all kinds of harmful microorganisms. Among them are bacteria, viruses, mold fungi that destroy wood and the pulmonary system of lovers of bath procedures. Properly made ventilation in the bath will get rid of the listed negativity. How to make it?
We will tell you all about the rules for organizing ventilation systems designed to dry wet rooms. The use of reliable information will help to develop and implement an impeccable ventilation project. The data submitted for consideration are based on building codes and the practical experience of builders.
The article describes in detail the methods of construction of ventilation systems designed to remove water suspended in the air, drying finishes and supporting structures. The materials and components required for their arrangement are described. Effective assistance in mastering a difficult topic will be provided by photo applications and video guides.
The bath needs regular air renewal. This is a safety requirement for people taking bath procedures. Also, proper ventilation can extend the service life to 50 years or more.
The type of ventilation system is selected individually and depends on the location, size of the structure, and materials used in construction.
Bath ventilation schemes
Everything existing systems ventilation according to the principle of action are divided into natural, forced and combined. In the first case, ventilation occurs due to the arbitrary entry of street air, its mixing in the room and the displacement of the exhaust air through the holes in a natural way.
Image Gallery
If there is insulation, then a counter-lattice is required to provide ventilation between the insulation and other layers of the roof. It is also used for ventilation of wall structures so that condensation does not form in the thickness of the layers.
To dry the floors, burst ventilation is used or a ventilated floor is equipped. This option should be considered at the construction stage. To do this, they perform a draft floor, carefully pouring concrete at a slope, and finish it with hardwood boards, leaving small gaps between them. Such floor provides fast removal of excess moisture.
It is important to properly organize ventilation in all areas of the bath. Particular attention should be paid to the washing / shower room, where high humidity threatens the formation of fungus and mold
All bath rooms need ventilation, including:
- washing room;
- dressing room / rest room;
- other premises.
To arrange proper ventilation, you have to choose the optimal scheme that fits the requirements and conditions of a particular bath. It is important to remember that fresh air must be supplied to all rooms and also removed from all.
They build ventilation ducts, make supply and exhaust openings in the walls or mount a whole system of air ducts - everything is very individual
Experienced craftsmen do not recommend laying complex ventilation duct systems, preferring to focus on the simplest solution suitable for a particular case. The rule here is the simpler the better. Yes, and at a price a simple option will cost several times cheaper.
Image Gallery
quality ventilation system- an obligatory element of the steam room. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health. A properly equipped system will protect people from carbon monoxide and improve the comfort of staying indoors. We will talk about the features and technology of installing the ventilation system in the bath later.
Characteristics of proper ventilation for the steam room
Proper ventilation in the bath performs several functions at once:
- provides the room with oxygen;
- improves the comfort of staying in the steam room;
- removes carbon monoxide;
- allows economically expedient to spend firewood;
- evenly distributes air flow;
- protects the building from the formation of mold or fungus.
by the most the best option ventilation in the bath is supply and exhaust. For these purposes, equip:
- air inlet - through them an influx of fresh air into the steam room is organized, a fan with a ventilation tube is installed, additional air inflow is provided by open windows or through the door;
- exhaust hole - the removal of heated air from the room, through the furnace, blower or devices that improve traction.
To improve the supply and exhaust ventilation system, use various ways. We offer you to get acquainted with one of the most effective ventilation systems:
1. The supply openings are located at the bottom of the room, next to the firebox.
2. Exhaust openings strictly on the opposite side from above. It is possible to organize two holes at once for better air control.
3. The height of the exhaust port determines the draft level. If the vent is low, additionally reinforce the system with a vent pipe.
4. With the help of special dampers, the air supply from the room is controlled.
5. The air in the steam room is renewed every 2-3 hours.
In addition, the individual parameters of the ventilation system are determined by the type of room, the version of the bath. For example, in a Russian bath, periodic ventilation will help renew the air. In addition, the size and location of the furnace installation are taken into account; in relation to this parameter, two types of ventilation are organized.
How to make ventilation in a steam room with a separate firebox
We offer a variant of the organization of ventilation in the steam room, the firebox of which is located in the next room. This scheme is popular in ordinary Russian baths. To bring the firebox to an adjacent room, a furnace tunnel is used. Among the advantages of this arrangement of the furnace, we note:
- lack of garbage in the steam room;
- the door to the room opens only at the entrance;
- the possibility of mounting heat-resistant glass for admiring an open flame.
There are two ways to install air inlets in a room:
1. Arrangement of a ventilation duct in the underground space. Removing it in front of the furnace room, installing ventilation grilles on the channel.
2. Floor supply of ventilation.
On the opposite wall, install the hood, diagonally in relation to the air inlet.
The main quality of the organization proper ventilation- supply openings should be the same as exhaust openings.
Ventilation scheme in a steam room with a firebox indoors
If the stove-heater is located directly in the steam room, then the organization of ventilation is different. In this case, air flows through the blower solve the problem with natural ventilation. This method is appropriate if the fire in the furnace is constantly.
If there is no chimney in the bath, and the stove operates in a short-term mode, a more advanced ventilation system is used. Familiarize yourself with the technology of arranging the ventilation system in the steam room:
1. Build a special brick podium on which the oven is installed. With its help, a ventilation duct is supplied to the furnace.
2. Lay the ends, build another box of bricks. As a result, the first design is installed at the top of the furnace channel, and the second - to the door of the steam room.
3. On a wall adjacent to a regular room, build doors in the places where the masonry passes. They warm up adjoining room, if necessary.
4. An oven is installed on the podium, it can be mounted on a corner or on steel paintings. Finish the furnace with brick, install a brick screen, with two convection valves.
5. The exhaust ventilation system operates due to the furnace furnace.
Correct installation of the ventilation system is based on its correct adjustment. General rules ventilation system control:
- at the beginning of the furnace furnace, all openings and supply and exhaust are closed;
- wait for the increase temperature regime, then adjust the vents with sliders;
- if it is necessary to increase the volume of oxygen in the room, open the inlet;
- upon completion of work, open the shutters for better ventilation of the steam room.
Steam room ventilation photo:
To determine the temperature and humidity in the room, use special devices. An alcohol thermometer can help you measure temperature. electric type. Please note that the use of the mercury version is strictly prohibited. Use a hygrometer to determine the humidity level.
The principle of operation of the ventilation system is based on the following factors:
- melting the oven, the air is gradually heated and exits through the convection door;
- the lower door remains open until the oven is fully heated;
- close the door from below and work with the top hatch;
- in the process of soaring, only the blower installed on the box opens;
- after using the steam room for its intended purpose, ventilate the room well.
Do-it-yourself ventilation device in the steam room
The main functions of the ventilation system in the bath:
- air supply during bath procedures;
- high-quality room drying.
The ventilation system in the bath should not:
- violate the temperature of the room, in the process of taking bath procedures;
- to separate temperature flows, that is, cool air is closer to the floor, and warm air is from above;
- remove unused air from the steam room.
In addition, the lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of unpleasant air in the room, the formation of mold and fungus, which are harmful to human health.
There are three main types of ventilation in the steam room:
- the natural option is the supply of air flows through the pressure difference;
- mechanical option - air supply using special mechanisms, when measuring these characteristics with instruments;
- combined option - the creation of artificial pressure by fans and hoods.
There are two types of air transport in the room: supply and exhaust. For these purposes, a hole located diagonally with respect to the inlet is equipped.
It is not recommended to install an exhaust outlet in the steam room on the ceiling; this ventilation system increases the warm-up time of the room. It is rational to install the hood under the ceiling, additionally equipping a damper on it to adjust the draft.
In addition, provide a ventilated floor in the bath. Thus, the period increases floor covering because it is in constant contact with water. Recommendations for the arrangement of floor ventilation:
1. During the installation of the foundation base, ensure the ventilation of the floors, build vents from the basement.
2. On opposite walls, build ventilation holes that provide air flow. Install gratings on them to prevent rodents from entering.
3. The finished floor should be slightly higher in level than the blower is located. Thus, it will function as a hood.
4. Install wooden planks with a small gap, at least half a centimeter.
5. After taking bath procedures, ventilate the room well and dry the floors.
Another way to organize the ventilation system in the bath is “According to Bast”. In this case, fresh air enters the room from the ward space, and exhaust from the hole located near the door. For these purposes, build an exhaust box made of wood, lined with foil inside.
Build under the floor ventilation duct, next to a metal sheet to prevent heat from entering it. The size of the structure should not exceed twenty percent. Adjusting the flow of fresh air through such a system is quite simple. It is enough to open the vent and blower. In addition, it is possible to avoid the accumulation of an unpleasant aroma in the steam room. This method of organizing ventilation is appropriate if the firebox is located directly in the steam room.
Ways to organize ventilation in the steam room with your own hands
We offer the five most popular schemes for organizing supply ventilation in the steam room:
1. Scheme No. 1.
Install the inlet under the stove 50 cm from the floor, and the outlet on the opposite side, thirty centimeters from the ceiling. The forced movement of air masses is provided by a fan. Thus, it is possible to ensure uniform heating of the air. The height of the first opening regulates the draft force of natural ventilation.
2. Scheme No. 2.
Two ventilation holes are located on the same wall, always opposite the stove. The inlet is installed at a distance of thirty centimeters from the floor, and the outlet is thirty centimeters from the ceiling. Install a fan in the outlet, the cooled air, entering the room, collides with the stove, heats up and exits.
3. Scheme No. 3.
Position the inlet behind the stove, at a distance of about twenty centimeters from the floor. The inlet is installed at the same height, only near the ceiling of the opposite wall. A hood is installed in the second hole. The principle of operation of the system is based on the ingress of cooled air into the steam room, passing through the oven and pulling out the second hole.
4. Scheme No. 4.
This method is relevant for a steam room with a floor that has holes for water to drain. The inlet is installed behind the furnace, and the outlet is a drain pipe through which air is vented to the outside.
5. Scheme No. 5.
Relevant for a bath with a constantly working stove. The inlet is arranged opposite the stove, and the blower with a chimney acts as an outlet
If it is necessary to increase the temperature in the steam room, it is enough to close all the plugs. After taking bath procedures, they are removed. It is quite possible to organize these ventilation schemes on your own, without buying expensive appliances and special material investments.
How to make a vapor barrier for a steam room with your own hands
Vapor barrier in the steam room allows you to maintain the optimum temperature of the room. Special materials in the form of vapor-tight films, insulation and waterproofing will help create high-quality vapor barrier. The film provides protection of the insulation from the penetration of water vapor, while not letting in the moisture that is in the hot air.
Qualitatively equipped vapor barrier and ventilation system increase the service life of the room itself and its exterior finish. Since hot air rises, first of all, vapor barrier the ceiling with high quality.
For these purposes, use lahi, boards, about 6 cm thick. From above, they are covered with aluminum-based foil, cardboard with increased density or waxed paper soaked in drying oil. After fixing one of these materials, the ceiling is finished with clay and insulated.
In addition, vapor barrier ceiling will help edged board. On the boards, cardboard impregnated with drying oil is installed, which is then sheathed with wooden clapboard.
Expanded polystyrene boards are a modern replacement for soft clay, they are distinguished by good thermal insulation and performance characteristics.
As vapor barrier materials for the walls of the steam room use:
- ruberoid;
- aluminum foil;
- glassine;
- film based on polyethylene.
Glassine and roofing material for thermal insulation of the steam room are rarely used. This is due to the fact that with strong heating, they emit toxic substances and unpleasant odors. The steam room is vapor-proofed with special foil materials. Allocate combined methods of vapor and thermal insulation. For example, NPP polypropylene, among its advantages we note:
- excellent resistance to moisture;
- resistance to temperature increase;
- laminated coating prevents the development of mold and mildew;
- combined thermal insulation.
In addition, it is possible to use rolled vapor barrier in the form of rolled foil or fiberglass boards. To seal the joints between vapor barrier materials, use foil tape.
The plates are installed on the ceiling with a small compensation gap of 20 mm. Thus, the effect of moisture on these areas is reduced. Please note that the vapor barrier in the steam room must be securely hidden behind the main finishing material, and a high-quality ventilation system is its complement.
Ventilation in the steam room video:
We have long gone from the firebox of the bath "on the black" and the lack of ventilation in this room. An integral part of the design of a traditional Russian bath is a ventilation system that ensures the distribution of heat evenly throughout the steam room and the removal of “exhaust” air to the outside. You can make ventilation with your own hands and at low material costs, but when arranging this important element of the bath, you should
General principles of steam room ventilation
A well-made ventilation system in the steam room is the key not only to a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere of a Russian bath, but also to your safety. Improperly arranged ventilation leads to numerous unpleasant consequences:
- the wood in the bath, even with an ideal ventilation device, is subjected to a huge load and does not last longer than 20 years, and poor ventilation will shorten this period by several times;
- the smell of stagnant air and rotting wood is not the most pleasant addition to the bath;
- if stale air is not removed from the steam room in time, using such a bath is more of a harm than a health benefit. The steam room accumulates gases exhaled by people, emitted by a working stove, as well as fungi and mold, which quickly capture a poorly ventilated room.
An important function of ventilation is to provide heat exchange. Humid air conducts heat very poorly, therefore, without air circulation, the stove will only heat the space around it. For this reason, the ventilation inlet is most often placed behind the stove at a low height from the floor. So the air has time to heat up and distributes heat throughout the steam room. Otherwise, too cold air is supplied to the room, violating the temperature regime.
The outlet is located on the opposite wall and at the opposite level with the inlet. It is a very common mistake to place the vents on the same level: they form a closed flow that does not affect most of the room, so it is always cold below, and too hot and stuffy in the upper part of the steam room.
Also, be sure to consider what is the same as right choice diagrams, meaning, has a correctly selected diameter of the ventilation holes. For each cubic meter the diameter of the room should be 24 cm, otherwise the air will not circulate.
Another important part of the ventilation system is the plugs or valves on the vents. They allow you to regulate the intensity of air circulation and quickly heat up and cool the room.
It is necessary to lay ventilation shafts even at the stage of construction of the bath itself, then it will be possible to change the ventilation scheme in only one way - by turning on the fan in it. Otherwise, disturbed ventilation will make the bath not very comfortable.
Natural and mechanical ventilation: pros and cons
The ventilation system can function both due to the natural movement of air, and due to the installed fan. The second option is an order of magnitude simpler: it is very difficult to create natural ventilation without a lot of stove experience behind you. It should be understood that any circuits with a different arrangement of vents are circuits designed to include a fan in the air exhaust process.
- With natural ventilation, air circulation occurs due to the difference in pressure and temperature outside and inside the room. Hot air rises to the top of the steam room, passes into the outlet and creates a slight vacuum in the room, due to which fresh air is drawn into the inlet;
- In circuits using a fan, either the outlet or both flows are provided by artificial air ventilation. Schemes with two fans allow you to place ventilation holes anywhere in the room; when using a single fan, the inlet, as with natural ventilation, is located at the bottom of the room behind the stove.
The advantage of natural ventilation is a minimum of material costs, but if the design of the bath does not allow you to arrange the ventilation holes according to the classical scheme, then the only option is to turn on the mechanical component. Far from any fan is suitable for ventilation in the steam room, the selected model must withstand extreme high temperatures and high humidity. A conventional heavy-duty duct fan near a steam room will not work, it will quickly fail, and faulty electronics in a wooden structure can be potentially dangerous. conventional fan can only be used to ventilate the room after using the bath.
Ventilation schemes in the steam room
But if the vents are not positioned correctly, the mechanical assistance of the fan will not make the system work. In order not to learn from your costly mistakes, it is better to take one of the ready-made working ventilation schemes, here are some of them:
- natural ventilation has already been described above. In it, the inlet is located behind the stove, the outlet is in the upper part of the opposite wall. So that the wind does not create a pressure zone and does not prevent the removal of air from the steam room, the air duct is made vertical and taken out to the roof of the building. If the diameter of the holes is chosen correctly, the natural system works without unnecessary intervention. The air flow is regulated by valves;
the schemes above are ventilation by means of mechanical draft. In the first diagram, the inlet is located at a distance of half a meter from the floor behind the stove, the outlet is as low as possible. The air rises, heats up and spreads in the upper part of the room, then cools and descends to the outlet, which houses the fan;
- Scheme B - an atypical arrangement of ventilation holes in the case when they can only be placed on one wall. The air enters the room, hits the stove, heats up, rises and exits into the outlet where the fan is installed;
- in scheme B, the stove is also used as a hood, and the only hole is located near the floor on the opposite wall. This scheme works well in baths in which the stove is used constantly, and is less often used in home baths;
- the latter scheme provides air circulation not only in the steam room, but also under the floor. The air enters the room, heats up from the stove, descends through the cracks in the floor into the underground and exits. This allows you to well ventilate the space under the floor.
A properly equipped ventilation system will help create a unique atmosphere of a Russian bath and prolong the life of the structure and finishing materials in room. Ventilation design is not like that simple task, as it seems at first glance, but not even a professional can figure out the basic rules and equip a working ventilation in his bathhouse.
Video - ventilation scheme in the steam room
Ventilation of the steam room is the most important component of the design of a modern bath. Ventilation is used to remove excess steam, exhaust air and the correct distribution of heat in the room. You can provide ventilation in the steam room with your own hands, investing very little money and materials. But first, let's figure out whether ventilation is needed in the steam room.
Why is there ventilation in the steam room
Properly constructed ventilation in the steam room solves two problems:
- comfort for steamers;
- safety.
The lack of air exchange or illiterate ventilation in the steam room can lead to such sad consequences as:
- rapid decay and deterioration of the structure. Even in a properly constructed bath, wood lasts no longer than 2 decades. If there is no ventilation, this period will decrease significantly;
- the unpleasant smell of rot and mustiness will discourage you from visiting the steam room;
- the accumulation of gases and microbes are harmful to health. During the burning of firewood and the presence of people in the bath, gases are released. And in a humid and warm atmosphere, mold and fungi develop. If there is no air exchange, all harmful impurities concentrated, making bath procedures dangerous for the human body.
One of the most important functions of ventilation in the steam room is the optimization of heating. Air saturated with water vapor is a poor conductor of heat.
That is why a bath without ventilation takes longer to heat up. To enhance the movement of air, the inlet is located behind the firebox, just above the floor. The air entering the room is first warmed up without lowering the overall temperature in the steam room.
So, ventilation is needed in a Russian steam room, and how to do it correctly - read on and watch the video.
Rules for ventilation in the steam room
There are many ventilation schemes in the steam room. The choice of a suitable one depends on the architectural features of the bath. But some laws cannot be broken in any case.
- Air inflow is organized in the lower part of the room, preferably near the firebox;
- The outflow of exhaust air during the construction of ventilation in the steam room with your own hands is best placed on the opposite side, as close to the ceiling as possible. Some owners make an exhaust hole directly in the ceiling, which has its pros and cons.
Do not place inflow and exhaust at the same height!
Otherwise, most of the air in the bath will not participate in the movement. Your feet will freeze and your head will overheat.
The diameter of the ventilation holes depends on the volume of the bath:
1 cubic meter of air requires 24 square meters. centimeters of pipe diameter.
Before arranging ventilation in the steam room, it is necessary to think over the valve system. They are needed to regulate the air flow and allow you to quickly cool or warm the bath. It is advisable to install ventilation pipes during the construction phase of the building.
Signs of poor ventilation:
- condensation on the walls;
- mold in the corners;
- heavy odor;
- drafts;
- cold in the middle and upper layers of the air;
- the bath does not gain temperature well and quickly cools down;
- fresh supply air is removed, and carbon dioxide remains in the room (feeling stuffy).
Even in a very hot melted steam room, it should be easy to breathe.
Which steam room ventilation is better: natural or forced?
Thinking about how to make ventilation in the steam room, you need to solve the main question: will the air exchange be natural or mechanical. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages. Equipping ventilation in the steam room with your own hands, it is easier to resort to mechanical traction.
There is no need to carefully verify the location and diameter of the ventilation ducts, mastering the skills of a stove-maker. You just need to insert the fans - and they will do all the work.
- With the natural ventilation scheme of the steam room, the movement of air is provided by the difference in temperature and pressure outside and in the bath. Warm air rushes to the ceiling, is pulled out into the street, creating some air pressure. The lack of pressure is compensated by the influx of fresh air. natural ventilation especially good in steam rooms made of wood - a breathable material. The movement of air flows is also supported due to the presence of gaps between the logs. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathhouse is small, natural air exchange will be quite enough;
- With a forced ventilation scheme, the inflow or exhaust of air in the steam room is organized by a fan. Sometimes fans are installed both for inflow and outflow. In such cases, ventilation grilles can be mounted anywhere. If there is only one fan, air flow is done only near the floor behind the firebox. A large bath, built of stone or brick, ventilate with high quality natural way will not work. Are used helper methods draft improvements, such as an exhaust fan or supply valve.
The advantage of a natural steam room ventilation scheme is that it is cheap. However, it is not always possible to install exhaust pipes in the right places and you have to resort to mechanical traction.
Before you make ventilation in the steam room, you must purchase a fan. Not every model will cope with high humidity and temperature. An ordinary household fan can only be used to ventilate the room at the end of the bath procedures.
In addition to fans, deflectors also belong to traction amplifiers. They are placed at the outer end of the ventilation duct.
If in the steam room for heating is installed geyser, a special ventilation duct is equipped for it.
Often, steam rooms and saunas are equipped with supply and exhaust systems that independently regulate the temperature, humidity and air exchange in the room.
Steam room ventilation schemes
The error of the steam room ventilation device can be expensive. How to properly position the ventilation holes is clearly shown by the diagrams:
A- photo of ventilation of the steam room with natural draft. The inflow is organized behind the firebox, the outflow is opposite from the upper part of the room. In order for the system to work in windy weather, the exhaust pipe is made vertical, its edge is higher than the roof ridge. It is important to choose the right diameter of the air ducts, then the air exchange will proceed independently. It is regulated by shutters.
B- this photo shows do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room with an uncharacteristic distribution of air ducts. The scheme is used when only one wall can be allocated for ventilation. The air enters the steam room from below, hits the hot stove, warms up and rushes to the ceiling, gradually moving towards the exhaust vent. Extraction is compulsory.
V- not only the steam room is ventilated, but also the underground, preventing the boards from rotting. The supply air is immediately warmed by the stove, descends down through the cracks in the floor, then rises up and is pulled out into the street.
G- in this photo, the chimney is used to ventilate the steam room and is an exhaust hood. Air inlet opposite the stove near the floor. Such ventilation is more often arranged in public steam rooms, since here the stove is constantly working.
The stove plays a very important role in organizing the ventilation of the steam room. The ventilation scheme largely depends on its location. More efficient air exchange is possible when the heater is installed directly inside the steam room, and not in the adjacent room.
About airing the Russian bath
In a classic Russian bath, it is impossible to install a mechanical hood. She will blow all the steam out into the street in a matter of minutes. Therefore, after the end of the bath procedures, the room is simply thoroughly ventilated. To do this, most often open the door and the window, which is usually located on the opposite wall from the door. If there is a forced exhaust, it can be used, but also with open door. Be sure to remove all wet leaves from brooms, because they retain moisture and microbes. And the benches and the wooden floor are dried with towels. In wet boards, microbes multiply remarkably and accumulate harmful substances isolated with sweat.
Having thoroughly dried and ventilated the room, you can begin to heat the steam room, where ventilation is required.
During heating in the steam room, the exhaust pipes are closed and the inflow is opened.
air movement at the end of kindling)
