Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip workplace as comfortable as possible and, to put it modern language, ergonomically, which was considered the key not only to fast and efficient work, but also to safety. In this regard, the premises intended for repair and handmade, were filled with all sorts of tables, racks and drawers, the original material for the manufacture of which was wood. Over time, the cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes they are on a par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple advice and tell you how to do it wooden workbench with your own hands.
The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench
Regardless of its design features, the workbench is a desktop, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and designed for processing structures and products with the most different dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while processing products is practiced both manually and using power tools - a drill and an electric planer. A typical layout of a standard carpentry workbench consists of the following elements:
- Work surface, for the manufacture of which a massive board is used, the thickness of which is not less than 60 mm. For the manufacture of the lid, experts advise giving preference to hardwood, such as oak or beech, using which you do not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, due to the high wear resistance of the material.
- A vice designed to hold workpieces. They are mounted on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
- Bench supports are designed to increase the stability of the overall structure, which are connected by longitudinal strips. For their manufacture, it is desirable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
- In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.
Joiner's workbench: types of design
When developing a workbench project, it is important to consider it design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be represented by a mobile structure. If you have opted for a mobile design, the best solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, there are three types of workbenches:
- Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
- Stationary workbench used for processing solid wood blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but "tied" to one place;
- A collapsible or “transforming workbench” is convenient with its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing its individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can learn how to make a retractable workbench in specialized manuals.
Carpentry or locksmith workbench: differences
In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Since the creation of a metal workbench is fraught with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.
Dimensions and location of the workbench
In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location for it. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about the electrical outlets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires in working area, preferably included in corrugated pipe or box.
Before proceeding with the construction of the workbench, experts recommend determining its final height. To do this, lower your hands down, after which place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and the palms is the same desktop height that is most convenient for you. Since home-made workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the table is 1.5 m long and 0.8 m wide.
How to make a workbench video
How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials
The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the whole work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed to make it. According to experts, for the construction of a workbench optimal material there will be a planed beam, which is suitable for the manufacture of a frame frame and legs.
Ideal dimensions of planed timber:
- for legs - 100x70 mm;
- for jumpers - 100x50 mm;
For countertops, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or a solid canvas, for example, an old one. wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.
How to make a workbench table? Sequencing
The manufacture of a workbench includes several stages, the fundamental of which are:
- Base assembly;
- Tabletop installation;
- Installation of equipment on a workbench.
Base assembly
base as structural element workbench, is a wooden frame, the fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the design meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a horizontally located jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a drawer. Both the jumpers and the tsarga are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the bars are fixed by means of a tenon-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and spikes, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.
If you're building a stationary workbench, one or more of the frame pieces can be attached to the wall, further strengthening the final structure.
Countertop fabrication and installation
- Thinking through the stages of manufacturing a countertop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. A massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together from previously prepared thick boards, for fastening which long nails are used, driven in with inside boards. Used boards are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from entering the existing slots. For the installation of the table top, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. To these jumpers, with the help of self-tapping screws, horizontally oriented rails are attached, which are needed to slide the drawers.
- The tabletop is bolted to the base. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars, using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed in the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injuries from falling chips in the process of subsequent work, the countertop is polished several times and covered with drying oil.
Equipment installation
- A vise is attached to the installed tabletop, for the installation of which recesses in the end face of the tabletop should be provided. In the place where the vise is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the countertop. When installing a vice, they are first applied, the place of their fastening is marked, and then fixed with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be located on the edge, which contributes to the displacement of gravity during operation.
- In addition to the vice, the classic workbench equipment is wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In the conditions of a summer residence, it will also be useful to install a grinder and a circular. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to consider all the details of convenience and safety, as well as to check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment is powered by electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly conduct the connection itself.
How to design and make a universal workbench?
This article did not consider in detail the process of manufacturing a locksmith's workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench in view of the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining a locksmith's and carpentry's workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.
For this, the same workbench is made, as given in the instructions, however, the area of \u200b\u200bthe working surface is slightly increased. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the countertop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. V ideal cover not only the top of the countertop, but also its end elements.
The workbench is an excellent "platform" for working with wood, metal, stone and other materials. Often a workbench is used to place tools and materials, which is especially convenient when carrying out construction and installation work. You can talk about the advantages of a workbench for a long time, but not everyone has the opportunity to purchase it.
The design of the workbench is quite simple, so it is quite possible to make it yourself. In order for a home-made workbench to meet all the requirements, namely, to be durable, stable, multifunctional, etc. Before proceeding with its manufacture, it is necessary to carefully study the instructions.
Detailed instructions for making a workbench with your own hands, or where to start
If you decide to make a workbench with your own hands, start by choosing the material, since the quality of the work will depend on this. In the event that you decide to make the entire structure yourself, you will need lumber. Many masters for such purposes take a ready-made table as a basis, which saves not only time, but often a significant amount of money.
If the second option interested you more, it’s worth noting right away that you still have to make an effort here, since a home-made workbench, if it is imperfect, may not meet your expectations and last for a very short time. You can make a workbench at minimal cost from a regular desk. At the same time, it is desirable that it be made from an array of boards, since if you take a chipboard table as a basis, a home-made workbench can turn out to be flimsy and short-lived. Most the best way- This is a desk with crossbars (or cabinets), which, by the way, are perfect for storing tools and various materials.
In case you didn't find suitable option to make a work surface, instead of a countertop, you can use another suitable item, for example, you can replace it with small planed bars. The main thing is that there are enough of them. The bars should be knocked down or glued together so that the result is a strong shield. But before assembling the shield, each bar must be sanded so as to give it a complete look.
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Surface work
At the next stage, the working surface undergoes thorough preparation, it is re-cut off and carefully sanded. The lower part is fixed with the help of crossbars, you can also use wooden bars already familiar to you, which are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.
Screws should be used for this purpose. It is not necessary to stick the veneer at all, it is quite enough to lay it on the surface of the table and fix it with the help of corners. As you understand, the manufacture of a carpentry workbench with your own hands is not over. The completed design is just a blank. Next, you have to make additional fixtures that will make a homemade carpentry workbench durable, stable and multifunctional.
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How to make a desktop with your own hands, without a base?
Taking into account the average human height (170-180 cm), the height of the future carpentry workbench should be approximately 90 cm.
One of the advantages is a great opportunity to completely “customize” it for yourself, so that later you will be as comfortable as possible to use it during work. The legs can be made from wooden bars connected with two-tiered crossbars. Thus, you will get the basis of the future carpentry workbench.
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Tabletop and other elements of a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench
You already know the method of making the countertop, the main thing is to make sure that the finished shield is durable. In general, working with a countertop will not take much time and effort, especially if you have everything at hand. necessary materials and tools. If you started making a workbench from the very beginning (without using a ready-made desk as a base), add a few drawers to the already made design.
For this purpose, you can use runners similar to those that ordinary computer tables have. V drawer convenient to store items such as screws, nails, drills and other small items.
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A little about the folding workbench
There are workbenches that can be folded if necessary. For those who do not want to take up extra space in their premises, this option is the most optimal, because when folded, the workbench takes up very little space.
It should be noted right away that it is rather difficult to make this type of carpentry workbench, since its design has a large number of small elements. In addition, the assembly process itself is different.
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Layout of the future design of the carpentry table
As you understand, drawing up a drawing is one of the most important stages in creating a carpentry workbench. With the right layout, you can calculate the amount of material needed and avoid unnecessary costs. In addition, a pre-drawn plan of the workbench will allow you to avoid mistakes during work, the correction of which can take not only a lot of time, but also nerves. In particular, those who first decided to make a carpentry workbench with their own hands cannot do without a drawing.
By looking at the layout of the workbench during the manufacturing process, you will be able to position the vise in the most optimal location. It should be noted that there are subtleties here - for people who do the work right hand, it will be more convenient if the vise is placed on the opposite side from the workplace. The distance at which they will be is determined based on the fact that they do not interfere with you in the process of work. In addition to installing a vice, do not forget about the placement of special cutouts (wedges), so a home-made carpentry workbench will be distinguished by its absolute safety, and the result of working with blanks will be of the highest quality.
When planning a future carpentry workbench, you need to take into account the tools you have to work with. So, for example, to work with a tool such as a jigsaw, it is advisable to think about a saw table, you can make it small so that it does not take up much space. As you understand, this should be done even in the process of manufacturing the workbench itself. The saw table should extend approximately 20 cm beyond the edge of the work surface.
Thus, the process of cutting plywood will be as convenient as possible. To make such a table, you will need a small board, in which several cuts must first be made, as well as a small hole about 1 cm. The hole is necessary in order to attach the board to a homemade desktop. The board is attached with screws, but if you want it to be removable, connect it to the clamp. As for the stops for the boards on the tabletop of the carpentry workbench, they are made according to the principle already familiar to you.
Work with drawing up the layout of the worktop is the most important stage. The fact is that the functionality of a home-made workbench will depend on this, because it is at this stage that it is necessary to consider where the devices necessary for work will be placed.
1. Glue the front beam from several layers A and trim to final size (Fig. 1 and 1a). Then cut grooves in it 19 wide and 41 mm deep (Fig. 1a, photo A and V).
Brief advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling template, but fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to slot into the rear vise block which is wider than the cover front bar.
From a couple of pieces of thick board and 12 mm thick material, assemble a simple template for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves, which will become holes for the bench stops.
When cutting slots in the front bar with a 12mm helical cutter and a 19mm guide sleeve, remove the material little by little, gradually increasing the depth.
2. Cut out the overlay V and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove the squeezed out excess glue.
3. Using the template usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill the holes for the rods. (photo C, fig. 1).
Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect with the bench rest holes in the A/B front bar. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.
Note. This project uses a front and back viseLee Valley. They differ good quality workmanship, smooth operation and come with detailed instruction by installation.
4. Now make the cover shield WITH, lower pads for the front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear bar G. Glue the trims, back rail, spacer and front rail to the lid (Fig. 1).
5. Make the left and right tips H, I (Fig. 2). Form tongues 36 mm wide and 57 mm deep along one side of the tips and drill 12 mm holes.
Brief advice! To quickly make clean and tidy sheet piles, remove most of the material with a slotted disk and then smooth the sides and bottom with a router table.
6. Mill on the ends of the cover A-G rebate on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (PhotoD), to form combs that are inserted into the tongues of the tips H, I.
Use the tip as a guide to cut the folds on the lid. Be careful not to hit the front trim B with the cutter.
7. Place the left tip on the comb H by pushing it to the front pad V. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield WITH. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use the awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (PhotoF). Draw parallel lines, 6 mm apart on both sides of each mark left by the awl, so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.
Use the point of a 12 mm drill to transfer the centers of the holes in the tips H, I to the ridges of the cover.
Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that when driving in the dowels, the tip with the cover is pulled tighter.
With a thin round rasp, process all holes except the first. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit snugly.
8. Drill 12 mm holes according to the marking. Then, starting at the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it 2mm on both sides without going beyond the parallel lines to make an oval 16mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each next by 1.5 mm in both directions (PhotoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. In the right tip I cut 57x165mm flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom lining E.
9. Put on the tips H, I on the combs and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the upper and lower edges of the tips.
Brief advice! To facilitate the installation of tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowing at their ends.
Add a vise
1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of movement of the router when selecting a recess in the bottom plate D for front vice (photo H). Mark the recess so that it is located 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center of the large hole for the vise screw.
Use a 12mm ascending cutter to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange as necessary the trim supporting the router.
Peel off the back plate to slide the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.
2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them with the template used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the cover.
3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J shouldered fillets and attach the front vise to the cover following the directions in the instructions (photo I). Install the stock handlebar in place.
4. Cut out the block according to the indicated dimensions TO for rear clamps. Remake the milling fixture that was used before and form grooves in the block with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3 and 3a).
5. Cut out the overlay L for rear clamps. Drill in the block TO 10 mm through holes with 25 mm counterbores (Fig. 3 and Per). Pressing the overlay against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it with a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill holes with a diameter of 16 mm at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from the one described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the vise package. In doing so, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.
6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any extruded adhesive from the bench stop holes.
Align the holes of the block K exactly with the holes of the pad L. In order not to spend a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.
7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism in place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard handle-lever.
Make bench stops
1. Saw according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" 17 stops M and 17 springs N. For the stops, we chose cherry wood, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the parts, and its color contrasts well with the white oak wood from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable.
2. To give the stops the desired shape, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and at the same time remain at the desired height. To learn more about them, read the article "Bench stops" published in this issue of the magazine.
Let's go to the base
Note. Before you start making, measure and record the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit snugly into this recess. If it fails to fit, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.
1. According to the dimensions indicated in the “List of Materials”, cut out the shelves O, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue lining to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to partitions P/R and secure with additional screws.
2. Sawing plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R divider shelf assembly.
3. From 19mm cherry veneered plywood, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue the side walls in place first, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to fix it.
4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled body before sawing out the crossbeams, uprights and overlays and make sure that the lengths listed in the Materials List are appropriate for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a slight allowance in length, and then fit them in place.
Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the front of the base, then add the uprights.
5. Now cut out the back rails Z, AA, racks BB, mullions SS and side rails DD, EE. Glue the bottom back bar AA and mullions to the back wall V (photo K). Then glue the rear top rail and posts in place, then the side bottom rails with mullions to the side walls, and finally the top side rails and posts.
Use a couple of thick, even-edged blocks to press the SS center pieces more firmly against the back wall.
6. Mill 10 mm chamfers at the corners of the body, ending at the joints of the crossbeams with the uprights (Fig. 6).
Before connecting the plinth boards, you need to saw the bevels on the slats glued on top. After that, you can start milling fillets.
7. From the 19mm cherry boards, cut the side, front and back plinth boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19 x 19 mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces to put them in place later. Finally, make the dovetail joints to hold the plinth boards together (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections paus, saw out the plinth boards of the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from above.
8. File the miter bevels on the slats for the side plinths only, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn off. Then glue the slats without bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel only the top of the front and back plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and the exact mating of the parts can be achieved by fitting, removing the material little by little (PhotoL). Next, cut a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all plinth boards.
9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may have to use screws or nails to fasten them if you made bevels at their ends instead of dovetails.
Add doors
1. Cut out the crossbars HH, racks II and panels JJ specified dimensions (Fig. 7).
2. Make dowels 6 mm wide and 12 mm deep centered on the inner edges of all uprights and rungs. Then form spikes 6 mm thick and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbars.
3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, rails and panels together. When the glue is dry, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust if necessary. Then cut 5x5mm seams on the top and bottom edges of the doors on the inside, as well as 10x5mm seams on posts where there are no hinges. These rebates leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet for the installation of magnetic latches.
Attach the doors to the cabinet with the hinges and put the magnetic latches in place.
Lower the lid onto the base
1. Invite three well-built buddies to use them to lift the heavy bench top and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well kept in place.
2. Once you've set up your new workbench in your workshop, immediately move on to your next project so you can enjoy your time in the workshop even more!
I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw the vise, and put tools in boxes.
I was able to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for me.
Metal parts are marked in blue, wooden parts are in yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm metal sheet. The frame of the workbench will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm boards. From the 40x4 strip, guides for attaching the side panels will be made. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and mounted on a powerful skid.
For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Diky to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, in order not to stretch it out for the whole day, we went to the metal depot.
The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army pea jacket, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.
Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grubby rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with it.
On that harsh January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.
Cutting the main parts of the frame took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.
Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick fetid sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.
Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.
And the base for a homemade countertop is welded.
The crossbars of the base for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here's a little sketch of what it looks like:
In the meantime, scalded the instrument panel brackets.
Overlays from 4mm strip reinforced loaded joints.
Welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.
Brackets give additional rigidity to the entire structure.
I want to cover the countertop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a 2200x750 sheet.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired size.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it's a little expensive for one.
I made boxes from 15mm plywood. Assembled with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It came out strong just the way I like it.
The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m
The sled was fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. What's more, it's so secure.
Now I'm thinking about different options facades.
This completes the welding phase. Ahead is a carpenter and a painter. Still in a trifle locksmith and electrically conductive.
Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wah, what nice paint I swear on mom! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.
Covered the tabletop edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws 4.0x35. I used 60 screws in total.
I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay denser.
Watered about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion on its own.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I of fire retardant efficiency - the highest.
Of course, this does not allow you to cook metal directly on the surface of the workbench. All the same, if the boards do not catch fire, they will char. To organize a welding post, I plan to weld a removable grate that will reliably protect the surface of the countertop from thermal exposure.
After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm metal sheet.
Covered the countertop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to a wooden base with rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.
Shields of 10mm plywood closed the extra openings in the frame of the workbench.
Pictured is the paint shop.
Registered on the tabletop permanent residents - grinder and vise. On a hefty tabletop, they are lost.
1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on a countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a strong protective film and easy to update as needed. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy chair with adjustable height?
P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the manufacturing process for everything presented on the links.
Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin uniform layer.
While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer
Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if varnished. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the transducer and dries again, hiding all old damage.
From the big one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or solid furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the countertop).
Well, actually, for the sake of what ...
Test passed
Class! You no longer have to huddle with hand-held power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.
Installed the instrument panel. Solid, from 21 mm plywood.
4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals to hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something
Facades for drawers made from the remnants of the 21st plywood
That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.
The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. Worktop area 1.65 square meters, instrument panel area 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost the same cubic meter. A feature of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm metal sheet is not afraid of mechanical damage. Roomy shelves, drawers and panel allow you to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade workbench of dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will work on it.
P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/
Well, to put a bullet in the project a few more photos.
Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (with a screwdriver, of course).
In time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a paper towel holder, and, well, additional lighting. Thankfully for two square meters there is room to expand. I made an awesome piece. Satisfied like an elephant.
Firstly, the small vise could not withstand the load and burst.
Instead, more powerful vices are installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? Hope they last me the same. In general, a good vise is the pride of the master.
The photo shows that the table top does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the table at all. Therefore, when attaching a vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. I thought so. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.
Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would be better to make them smaller. I will invent some organizers inside them.
The rest turned out great. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. On a large tabletop there is also where to decompose.
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Each master needs a comfortable workplace for working with wood or for finishing manipulations. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.
The device and purpose of the carpentry workbench
A workbench is a stable, massive work table designed for processing various products using manual or power tool. The larger the dimensions of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.
Typical workbench layout:
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is necessary to study all possible table designs, their drawings, and only then make a choice.
Simple stationary workbench it is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It will be possible to use it for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.
Mobile desktop has small dimensions (approximately 80x70 cm), weight is about 30 kg and one vice. It is intended for work with medium-sized products and for minor repairs.
Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.
We draw up a workbench project
The working carpentry table should be made in such a size that it is convenient to work on it.
Height the table directly depends on the growth of the owner, who should be comfortable while standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, a workbench can be from 70-90 cm high.
Lenght and width workbench depends on the area of the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.
Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.
Set workbench best by the window, but additional lighting is still needed. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.
folding table design can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench, you can make folding legs or an unscrewing tabletop.
Workbench with your own hands. Blueprints. Video instruction
A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard of your own house or cottage.
Base making
First of all, you should make a frame of their bars with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.
Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the whole structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.
To make the stationary structure even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be fixed to the wall. You can increase the stability of the carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are fastened with self-tapping screws between the top of the frame and the legs and are made of the same material as the table base.
We make a countertop with various fixtures
Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.
- Boards with the help of metal corners are attached to three bars, which are placed with reverse side countertops. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
- Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and covered with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.
At the end of the tabletop, a recess is made under vise. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed on the bottom of the workbench.
The vise is applied to their location, and the place for the holes is marked. A vise is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that their lips are flush with the surface of the table top.
Also, on a carpentry workbench, it is necessary to build stops that can be purchased or made by hand. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not fix parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.
Easy enough to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, it will be possible to securely fix parts of any size. Such stops are made of solid wood. You can make them just rectangular, expand upwards or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring”.
Under the pegs in the countertop, you can make holes or build it up with bars of the desired thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and close the bar on the other side. In order to fix any part, the nests should be located at a distance of half from the vice stroke from each other.
The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space for the installation of the desktop, then a collapsible carpentry workbench can be made.
Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement
The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that to connect the parts it is required use of bolted connections.
The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation it is easy to replace any parts. So, for example, every table loosens over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.
Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task at all. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices, for which work will bring joy.
