Is it possible to leave chrysanthemums to winter. How to save garden chrysanthemums in winter

Chrysanthemums: planting, growing, care

Eastern wisdom advises everyone who wants to live happy life, grow chrysanthemums. According to an ancient Chinese legend, a white dragon tried to encroach on the sun itself. He tore it with teeth and claws, and the sparks fell to the ground and turned into yellow flowers, which were later called chrysanthemums. They are depicted on the Japanese coat of arms, coins and seals, which does not prevent Asians from preparing cakes and salads from it. How garden flower chrysanthemum has been known for three millennia, but interest in it is only growing.

Breeders are constantly striving to get as large-flowered varieties as possible, but small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums are more attracted to gardeners, as they are resistant to low temperatures, good in open ground in combination with other flowers, they have high decorative qualities, bloom for a long time and profusely almost until November. Therefore, it is not for nothing that the chrysanthemum is considered the queen of autumn. In addition, it is grown in pots to decorate houses, and when cut, it lasts a long time - up to 30 days, so it is ideal for bouquets.

In the open ground, the chrysanthemum blooms in August and pleases with its lush flowers all autumn, withstands frosts down to -7 ° C. Depending on the variety, the stems reach a height of 30-80 cm and are decorated with double, semi-double and simple inflorescences of unusually diverse shades.

In the northern regions of Russia, it is believed that it is impossible to grow chrysanthemums in open ground, but in fact they can successfully winter with light shelter in middle lane Russia and even Siberia! In these areas, after cutting the stems, stumps 10-15 cm high are well spudded with peat, covered with foliage and insulated with spruce branches.

Planting chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums do not like the slightest shading and moisture retention, so the place for them should be sunny and at least a little elevated. This is a guarantee that the shoots will not stretch, change the time and duration of flowering. but root system chrysanthemums are superficial, so the soil cannot also be overdried.

The ideal soil for them is loose, moisture-permeable, with the optimal amount of various nutrients. With dense and infertile soil in the garden, before planting the cuttings, a little peat, compost or rotted manure is introduced into the soil, but do not abuse them, otherwise the flowers will be unnecessarily tall to the detriment of flowering. As a drainage, add a small amount of coarse sand to the soil. The soil mixture is preferably neutral or slightly acidic.

The ideal day for planting is overcast or rainy. In hot sunny weather, plant cuttings in the early morning or late evening when the sun is less active. Pour wells with a depth of 35-40 cm with plenty of water, lay drainage, earth mixed with biohumus in a ratio of 20: 1. Chrysanthemum put and covered with earth. Root growth is parallel to the soil, so they are not too deep. For tall varieties additional support is needed.

Immediately after planting in the ground, the first pinching is carried out - the growth point is removed on the plant. 3 weeks after disembarkation, the upper part of the shoot is broken out with 2-3 nodes - the second pinch. The first days after planting, artificially shade the seedlings so that they do not suffer from bright sunlight. The best option a non-woven material will serve, but it is desirable that it does not come into contact with the leaves

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Since the seeds of the variety are not preserved, chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings, dividing bushes, or root shoots are separated from the mother bush.

In any case, it is necessary to plant and replant chrysanthemums in the spring, in May, when frosts and cold snaps pass. It is also possible at the beginning of summer - this will not affect the development of chrysanthemums.

If you got hold of planting material closer to autumn, then plant it in the ground before September 15, so that the plants have time to take root well before the onset of frost. If you did not have time during this period, then plant the seedling in a shallow wide pot, cutting it low.

Send the container with chrysanthemum to a dark place on a warm loggia or heated terrace, where until spring the temperature will be at the level of 4-6 ° C - these are the optimal conditions for the successful development of plants. Moisten the soil periodically throughout the winter.

Since the end of February, the chrysanthemum has been planted in a greenhouse and watered more often. Until the end of March, the shoots will grow back and it will be possible to take cuttings - cut the shoots no more than 10 cm.

Gently plant the cuttings in a box filled with a mixture of earth, sand and humus in a ratio of 1: 2: 1, tightly close with glass. After a month, the cuttings will take root, they can be planted in wide containers. As soon as the danger of an unexpected cold snap passes, it will be possible to transplant the mother plant and seedlings into the ground.

Chrysanthemum Care

The watering regimen should be moderate, in which the root system will not rot from excess moisture. This despite the fact that the chrysanthemum is quite moisture-loving. The exception is the dry period (during it, water more abundantly so that the stems do not become stiff and the flowers do not lose their decorative effect) and the period before flowering. It is better to take settled or rain water.

Once a week, “feed” the flowers with mullein infusion (1:10), and before budding, with potash and phosphorus fertilizers for lush flowering, sometimes nitrogen to increase green mass. Cancel top dressing before flowering. When fertilizing, make sure that the fertilizer solution does not fall on the leaves and does not cause a burn. Water only under the root. For the development of young chrysanthemums, it is extremely important to provide a balanced diet in the first two months, as there is a very active increase in green mass. Burnt mullein and chicken manure are very effective. The main rule is that it is better not to feed the plant than to burn it.

Pour a couple of buckets of mullein or a bucket of chicken manure into a large container, fill it with water, stir and let it infuse for three days - during this time, a valuable highly concentrated fertilizer will be ready. Prepare the solution: add 10 liters of water to 1 liter of concentrated infusion. Apply 1 liter of solution under each plant only under the root and always on moist soil.

Despite the fact that chrysanthemums tolerate cold quite well, at the end of October, protect the flower bed from frost by placing a frame with plastic wrap on it - and you will admire the flowering of April cutting plants for another month. You will remove the frame at the end of November, transplant the bushes into pots, and on a warm, bright veranda they will bloom even in January.

Disease and pest control

Moisture-loving chrysanthemum abundant watering, especially in the absence of rain, helps to prevent damage by aphids and mites that cannot stand moisture.

Many harmful microorganisms and pathogens live in the soil, therefore, after each rain, treat the plants with disease preparations (for example, Quadris or Previkur). Fitosporin will protect against root rot, it can be added to irrigation water with each top dressing.

Of all the enemies of chrysanthemums (leafworms, snails, aphids, ticks, etc.), caterpillars are the most dangerous. Only one of them can eat several buds per night. So keep your eyes open, review your landings regularly and take action on time. Good drugs for insect control are Aktara, Aktellik, Ratibor, Iskra, Fitoverm, etc.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums

The genus of chrysanthemums includes more than 150 species, but in our garden we grow mainly their hybrids.
The classification of chrysanthemums is rather complicated. There are main garden groups of hybrid chrysanthemums: Korean (small-flowered, inflorescence 2-9 cm), Indian (large-flowered, inflorescence 10-25 cm), as well as Chinese and Japanese.
According to the structure of the flower, the varieties are divided into the following groups: simple, semi-double, anemone-shaped, terry, flat, hemispherical, spherical, curly, pompon, radial. According to the structure of the petal, tubular and reed are distinguished.

For growing in the garden, the most popular chrysanthemums are Korean, they are unpretentious, beautiful, and bloom for a long time. Large-flowered species are usually grown for cutting and arranging bouquets. I will list several popular small-flowered varieties for your garden.

Chrysanthemum Korean Alyonushka

Bright pink non-double inflorescences 5-6 cm in diameter. Bush up to 50 cm tall. Blooms in September.

Chrysanthemum Korean Barkhan

Orange-yellow small flowers, diameter 5 cm. Bush height 60 cm.

Chrysanthemum Korean Snowball

The inflorescences are double, small, 56 cm in diameter, white with slightly pink tips. Bush up to 60 cm high.

Chrysanthemum Korean Mishal

Small-flowered terry chrysanthemum, inflorescences 4-4.5 cm, pompon, lush, bright yellow. Blooms from September. Bush up to 40 cm high

Chrysanthemum Korean Terracotta

Flowers are double, 5-6 cm in diameter, orange hues. Bush 50-60 cm tall.

More details on the site 7dach.ru: Chrysanthemums: planting, growing, care.

Chrysanthemum bush Saba

A very original chrysanthemum color with a yellow-green core and reddish-purple sharp petals with a white border. Flower diameter 5 cm, bush height 60-70 cm.

It seems to many that chrysanthemums in winter feel great without any additional care. In fact, if you don't care chrysanthemums in autumn, then in the spring you will get weak, disease-prone bushes. And then - if the plant manages to overwinter, and it does not freeze and does not swell.

Therefore, if you want your chrysanthemum to be healthy and pleasing to the eye, give it a little attention in the fall.

Preparing chrysanthemums for storage

There is different ways storage chrysanthemums in winter, but they can be divided into two main groups: chrysanthemums remain in the open field or are dug up and stored indoors. Unlike, for example, from dahlias, where there are no options and you always have to dig up tubers for the winter, the owners of chrysanthemums have options. For safety, experienced flower growers dig out some of the plants, and some chrysanthemums in winter left in the ground.

What is the preferred method? It depends on two main factors:

Climatic conditions. For most varieties of chrysanthemums, snowy winters, even very cold ones, are not terrible. It is worse when the winter is very wet, or without snow, or with sudden changes in temperature. Here, no matter how you cover the chrysanthemum for the winter, it will be difficult to protect it from damping or freezing.

Chrysanthemum variety. There are heat-loving varieties - Indian, for example. These chrysanthemums for winter left outdoors unless the region has very mild winters. But Korean hybrids of chrysanthemums (we also call them "oak") can winter with the most insignificant shelter.

Chrysanthemums in autumn begin to prepare for the cold only after the first slight frost. It is October, and sometimes - the beginning of November. The plant must have time to harden, and only before the soil freezes chrysanthemums for winter cut off leaving “stumps” 10-20 cm high (for convenience of designating the variety).

Storage of chrysanthemums in winter

Wintering chrysanthemums in the ground

1) Mulching chrysanthemums for the winter. Suitable for frost-resistant varieties of chrysanthemums and snowy winters. At the same time, with the onset of the first frosts, the plant is spudded (they take sawdust, shavings, compost, humus, peat, etc.), and in severe frosts they cover it with spruce branches or simply with branches and sprinkle with dry leaves.

2) Building a shelter for chrysanthemums in winter. This option is more reliable, especially if the winter is capricious. To do this, in autumn, supports are placed around a bush or several bushes of chrysanthemums (bricks are laid, for example), and a board or slate is placed on top of them. Now it remains only to put the covering material on top and fix it. You can take the same spruce branches, or you can use materials like Spandbond or Lutrasil. The main thing is that the shelter should be able to ventilate, otherwise the chrysanthemum may die in winter from an excess of moisture.

3) Wintering of chrysanthemums in trenches. For this method, you should prepare from the end of summer or the beginning of autumn. On a hill (so that moisture does not accumulate), a ditch breaks out at least half a meter deep. The bottom of the trench is covered with sawdust or needles. With the first frosts, chrysanthemums are dug out together with a clod of earth and placed in "wintering" in dense rows. Boards should be placed on top of the trench, and the boards should be covered with a material similar to dense polyethylene. Thus, water will not enter the ditch. There is one feature of this method - chrysanthemums "wake up" early and in the spring they are usually taken out with green shoots.

Digging up chrysanthemums for the winter

It is to this method that experts advise resorting. bushes chrysanthemums for winter dug out of the ground, form a strong bush, get sick less often, bloom earlier. In addition, it is possible to monitor the storage of chrysanthemums in winter - do they dry out, do they rot, do they rot, and if necessary, chrysanthemums can be watered or treated with a fungicide.

True, there are situations when there is no suitable place for storage (temperature - 0 ... + 5 degrees). It can be a cellar, basement, veranda or garage.

If you are a happy owner of a cellar with an earthen floor, then dug out chrysanthemums for the winter are placed directly on the floor - plants will draw moisture from it. And the temperature, as a rule, in such rooms is kept at an optimal level, which will not allow the plants to wake up too early.

But most often, flower growers dig up their shortened chrysanthemums in the fall and place them for wintering in specially prepared boxes. The boxes should contain a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1). And even after the chrysanthemums are dug up and placed in containers, you should not immediately bring them into the room - let the plants stay in the cold air until the final frost.

If you have a choice where to store chrysanthemums in winter, give preference bright room. There is an opinion that without light during the winter, the chrysanthemum is depleted, becomes pale and powerless.

That's all the main secrets, thanks to which chrysanthemums will feel great in winter. The main thing is to monitor changes in temperature and moisture: so that the chrysanthemums do not freeze and dry out - on the one hand, they do not start early awakening due to high temperature and didn’t get out - on the other. If you create right conditions for chrysanthemums for the winter- the flowers will thank you generously. Moreover, doing this is not at all difficult.

Chrysanthemums have long fascinated me with their endurance. In autumn, when I came to our friends garden, I could not take my eyes off the plants that were blooming despite the bad weather. They had only two types - yellow in the form of daisies and pink terry.

But the plants grew well, and friends planted several bushes in different parts of the garden. The effect was wonderful - as if not autumn in the yard, but summer.

Then we got our own garden, and friends gave me a couple of bushes. So I got my first chrysanthemums.

In the future, I tried to purchase other varieties. And often wrong. In the Moscow region, where our garden is located, they sell many different varieties, including those that can only be grown in a greenhouse. Basically, these are large-flowered chrysanthemums with a flower diameter of more than 10 cm. They do not bloom in the ground. Sometimes a bush will fill a lot of buds, but here it’s just cold. He should go to Japan, to the Chrysanthemum Festival. These plants are not for us.

Then I decided to act for sure. In autumn, I was looking for aunts in the market who sell bushes along with flowers. These varieties are definitely from our area, and if they have flowers, then they have time to bloom.

One disadvantage of this method. Often, housewives do not know the varieties or call similar flowers known varieties. For example, I have three white chrysanthemums with the name Umka. But whether there is a "real" Umka among them, I doubt it. For me, this is not the main thing. It is important for me that the chrysanthemums have time to bloom before the snow.

Planting chrysanthemums in the fall is, of course, risky. Weakened by flowering, they may freeze. I had to warm them up like roses. She covered it with spruce branches, put a fruit box, and on top - lutrasil or spunbond.

This did not always help, and the plants froze out. I didn't worry too much. So, these are not very hardy chrysanthemums. And I needed "our" reliable ones. Let them be called "Korean", but they are already acclimatized.

Sometimes I bought bushes too late, when it was already snowing. And grannies with chrysanthemums in baskets reminded me of the fairy tale "12 months", when flowers bloomed in winter.

But it is no longer possible to plant in the snow. Even with shelter, plants do not overwinter, because in cold ground fail to take root.

I lowered such roots to spend the winter in the cellar. I put them in a basin and filled the voids with soil. In winter, when I got out jars of pickles, I checked my chrysanthemums. Occasionally "watered" them with snow.

In March, I took out the roots from the cellar for germination and put them in a bright place. Planted in the garden in May. Watered abundantly, and fed once a month. With frequent top dressing, chrysanthemums fatten and later lay buds.

In Central Russia, small-flowered chrysanthemums with an early and medium flowering period are best wintered. The small size of the flowers they more than compensate for their abundance.

In the markets, the choice of varieties is small. It is not every year that a new color can be found. And yet, I already have seven reliable varieties. Although only three varieties can be named, others are unnamed or "doubtful". But they are "ours", proven - they winter in the open field.

I'm still digging up three more varieties for the winter. I'm afraid to lose them. Among them is the variety Zhemchuzhina. It is said to be winter hardy. But I want to check in our conditions. When I multiply, I will conduct an experiment: I will send one part of the plant to storage, and I will leave the other in the ground.

I propagate chrysanthemums by dividing the bush and cuttings. I start cuttings in the spring, when the young shoots grow up to 5-7 cm. I carefully break them out at the base and plant them in the soil. From above I pour sand with a layer of 2 cm. I cover it with a jar.

Over the years of growing chrysanthemums, I have accumulated good experience. I would like to give some more advice.

1. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate shade at all. Even slight shading during the day delays flowering.

2. Chrysanthemum - flower short day, that is, it goes into flowering when daylight hours decrease. Many people misunderstand this and plant the plant in the shade, where there is less light. This is mistake! Shade is not a short day at all, but a lack of lighting.

3. Chrysanthemums do not like heavy wet soil. I shared flowers with my friends who have just such a soil. With the same care in the summer, their chrysanthemums froze. This means that unfavorable conditions for wintering are created on clay. The soil needs to be seriously loosened.

VARIETIES FOR THE MIDDLE BAND

Talisman, Copper Thunder, Lucy, Youth; Malchish-Kibalchish, Evening lights, Gypsy, Korean, Radiant, Svemba Kare, Radiant, Alexandrite, Flamingo, Swan song, First snow; Petruha, Pearl, Helen, Orange Sunset, Isabelle, Cherry Orchard, Eugenia Grande, Evelyn Bush, Syaivo, Golden Autumn.

4. Covering chrysanthemums with a film will surely lead to their death. Under it, they just get wet. If you want to be safe, mulch with earth and leaves (preferably forest ones). Or cover with a box and spunbond, as described above. There must be air under cover. I do not cover my chrysanthemums (7 varieties). For the winter, I only mulch the roots with soil.

5. Once every three years, chrysanthemums need to be transplanted. They can be divided or just planted deeper. Young plants overwinter better. Transplantation should be carried out only in the spring, when young shoots appear from the ground.

6. If you bought a chrysanthemum late, then do not plant it, but lower it into the basement. But do not water the roots in the cellar! It is necessary to moisten the earth ball minimally, otherwise the bushes begin to grow. The shoots are pulled out, and the plant dies from exhaustion. For the same reason, it is difficult to keep the chrysanthemum at home, at room temperature.

7. After a bad wintering, chrysanthemums lag behind in growth and do not have time to bloom. And for a good wintering, you need to consider rules 1 - 6.

G.P. Safonov, Moscow region

Autumn garden decoration - chrysanthemums, this is a real joy for most summer residents. Already many plants are suitable only to cover the beds with their dry tops, and your flower beds continue to burn with gold. Of course, growing chrysanthemums outdoors is a very rewarding experience that definitely won't get in the way of any grower. Bright, unpretentious flower with a tart smell is a generous gift of nature that will prolong the summer days.

Choice number one

Among the variety of garden flowers, chrysanthemum stands out. The choice of varieties is simply amazing, while each of them is very beautiful in its own way. They don't call her the queen of autumn for nothing. Today we will talk about how chrysanthemums are grown in open ground. It's not too difficult, bright flowers will readily grow in almost any conditions. Having correctly composed the composition, you will enjoy the colorful splendor for many years in a row.

Varieties and varieties

Lush, fragrant inflorescences can not only add variety to household plot, they change the gardener's life. According to legend, they inspire optimism even in the most dull person. Growing chrysanthemums outdoors is a magical activity, and it is almost impossible to stop in the choice of forms. Every time you buy another bag of seeds, you are surprised at the magnificent color of the flowers, their durability, plant height, leaf shape, degree of doubleness. And over and over again acquiring sets of seeds of different varieties, you can be sure that they will not be repeated.

If you want to see a really bright and elegant flower bed, then you definitely need to combine different varieties and shapes with each other. Growing chrysanthemums outdoors is the same, no matter what kind of heads you will enjoy in the fall. The combination of curb and tall bushes in the background looks best.

Location selection

Excellent growth and lush flowering - it all depends on you. Chrysanthemum is not too demanding, but very thermophilic plant. First of all, you need to choose a suitable place for her. It must be remembered that these flowers do not tolerate moisture retention and do not tolerate dark areas very well. Therefore, the lowlands are more places for lily of the valley. Choose open, sunny areas that are slightly elevated. Dampness will cause plants to die in winter, and lack of lighting leads to deformation of the green part.

Growing chrysanthemums outdoors for sale is even more interesting, as plots sell like hot cakes in the spring. However, the requirements for conditions in this case are even higher. After all, you definitely need to get a good result. For excellent flowering and rapid growth, the plant simply needs good soil. Only optimal composition trace elements will allow you to get powerful bushes with magnificent heads. They love loose and permeable soil rich in organic matter. Therefore, if you want to prepare a place for plants in advance, dig a planting hole, fill in drainage and humus, and good, fresh soil on top. And during the warm period, be sure to apply seasonal top dressing. However, you should not be zealous. With an overabundance of nitrogen and phosphorus, the plant becomes fat. You will have huge bushes without flowers.

Sale of cut flowers

This is a very profitable business, so it is worth considering if you are seriously interested in growing chrysanthemums outdoors. Features of the variety Valentina Tereshkova, Alec Bedser suggest the formation of large inflorescences. Huge flowers on strong stems can keep fresh for a long time in vases.

Moreover, they continue to delight us with bright colors even after the onset of cold weather. Here it is necessary to clarify: the warmer the climate, the easier it will be to grow such hybrids. Quite the opposite is the case in regions with a harsh climate. Where can you easily organize the cultivation of chrysanthemums in the open field? The Kirov region with a mild climate, without sharp fluctuations, is ideal. Here you do not have to stress the plants every time, dig them up in the fall and plant them again in the spring. Thanks to this, the bushes respond with stunning flowering.

In Siberia, large-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in large pots, which are dug into the ground for the summer. With the onset of autumn cold weather, they are transferred to a room where the temperature remains around -5 degrees all winter. This way you will ensure beautiful flowering every year.

Landing

Growing chrysanthemums outdoors for sale assumes that you will occupy a fairly large area of \u200b\u200byour garden for cultivation. May is best time for decorating a flower bed. Before the onset of cold weather, the plants will have time to get stronger.

In addition, it is very important not to plant bushes in flowering form. In mid-October, such a landing is guaranteed to lead to the death of the plant. If you bought planting material late, then it is better to leave the flowers not in the open field, but indoors. A dry basement with a stable temperature is fine. But they will not tolerate dampness and low temperatures.

Some gardeners specifically arrange high beds. There is one trick here that will allow the mother plants to overwinter well and wake up very early in the spring. The bottom layer of the beds is poured from fresh manure, and on top there is already a layer of fertile soil. Burning out, it will give a lot of heat, which will allow the plants to bloom until late autumn, and with good shelter they will survive even in the most severe frosts.

Making a flower bed

With the onset of steady heat, the chrysanthemum wakes up on the street. Growing conditions in should include wintering in its permanent place. To do this, the gardener makes sure that there is no rotting of plants, that is, a flower bed must be created on a hill. With the onset of cold weather, the roots of plants are mulched, covered with hay or sawdust. From above - they fall asleep with snow, and your plantings can safely survive the whole winter.

In the spring, with the onset of heat, it is necessary to remove all covering materials, after which the plantings will start to grow. If the planting material was stored in the cellar, at the end of May it is time to prepare it for planting. Just at this time, the first frosts end.

Planting must be carried out by variety. Be sure to provide your flower bed with labels or other markers. Complex fertilizer, for example, well-rotted manure, is preliminarily added to the prepared trench. Remains only proper care. Growing chrysanthemums outdoors is not difficult, even an amateur can handle it.

So, the distance between planted plants should be from 30 to 50 cm. The larger the bush is planned, the more space it needs to leave for growth and development. Planting and transplanting must be done with a large clod of earth. Immediately after this, the earth should be abundantly watered with a solution of "Kornevin" or any other drug that promotes growth.

The climate of central Russia

In order for beautiful flowers of chrysanthemums to turn out in the fall, in the summer they need to be provided with proper care, regular watering and top dressing. The cultivation of chrysanthemums in open ground in the Moscow region is especially good. With high-quality shelter, they calmly endure frosts up to 30 degrees, and with the onset of spring they delight you with excellent flowers. Growing mother plants is very easy. We will now consider one of the options, and you will understand that any gardener can have a piece of the sun on his site.

These plants root very easily. Growing chrysanthemums in open ground in the Moscow region is also facilitated by the fact that every year you can get new plants from part of old ones or from green cuttings. Young root growth, side shoots on old stems - all this is material for a new bush.

There is a slight subtlety here. It is undesirable to leave plants in one place for a long time. We have already said that they do not like to be disturbed during the flowering period. This is true. But once every two years they need to be seated in a good fertile soil. Otherwise, it loses its attractiveness, the branches become woody. However, if the bush has already lost its charm, it can become a parent for an entire flower bed.

Growing technology in the Urals

Here the climate is not so much harsh as unpredictable. Heavy snowfalls and frosts, winds and prolonged drought - all this makes growing chrysanthemums in the open field in the Urals a little more difficult. To make life easier for the gardener, you can advise the following option. After flowering, the stems from the mother bushes are cut with secateurs. Hemp 10-15 cm should remain. Bushes for the winter must be covered with peat crumbs, along with manure. The height of the layer should be 10-15 cm. For insulation, what is left after cleaning the garden is laid on top. These are tops and branches. In winter, snow accumulates on them.

spring work

With the onset of spring, it is necessary to remove the tops and branches. But peat sweeping is not necessary at all. This is mulch and fertilizer, without which it will be difficult to wait for good flowering. After the root growth has appeared, it is removed with a pruner. It turns out cuttings 6-7 cm long. They need to be dipped in the Kornevin solution and planted on a bed with well-fertilized soil, on top of which there is a layer of sand (about 2 cm).

Every day it is necessary to spray and water the cuttings. From above you need to stretch the film and be sure to organize shading from bright, sunny rays. Do not forget to ventilate, and after 2 weeks your plantings will give good roots.

Young plants are planted in a permanent place in May, when the threat of frost has passed. Remember to water and mulch the soil well. As soon as the height of your plants reaches 15 cm, the most painstaking work begins. To get a tall stem with a lush flower, you must definitely pinch all the side shoots and buds, leaving one. Moreover, the choice is not always obvious, the central one may turn out to be underdeveloped or ugly, so you need to carefully monitor your plant.

Gardening in Siberia

This is both a complex and very exciting process. Growing chrysanthemums in open ground in Siberia is quite possible, but additional tasks fall on the gardener. First of all, you need to choose winter-hardy varieties. It can be an early Cream or Raspberry chrysanthemum, pink Perlinka or a Gift. They need to be planted on a high, dry bed, but even this does not guarantee a successful wintering.

We have already talked a lot about outdoors. Preparation for winter should be carried out very carefully. Since autumn, the plants are pruned, covered with humus and covered with spruce branches. But even in this case, it is impossible to guarantee that the flowers will overwinter safely. It happens that the cold season is unusually mild. Then there is a risk that the plants will wake up very early and may die from excess moisture under the covering material. Another time, on the contrary, the ground freezes by 2 meters, which means that the chances of survival for chrysanthemums are even less. Therefore, the only option is to take the mother bushes to a cool place. It could be a basement or a garage.

In late autumn, when the first frosts hit, the chrysanthemum is carefully dug up and placed in a 5-liter bucket. In this case, it is recommended to cut off the entire above-ground part. You can leave only lignified stumps 10-15 cm high. The dug out mother liquors must be removed to the cellar and kept at a temperature not higher than +2 degrees. Somewhere at +4, chrysanthemums will begin to sprout, which is highly undesirable.

Growing a new variety

If you were lucky enough to get good seeds, you can plant amazing plants on the site, for which all the neighbors will come to you. Growing chrysanthemums outdoors from seeds is not at all too difficult. In this way, you can grow both an annual and a perennial that will decorate your garden for a long time.

Both the first and second need to be planted in early spring. At the beginning of March, you should already have shallow boxes filled with earthen mixture on the windows. It is advisable to take ready-made, but you can cook it yourself. To do this, take greenhouse land, humus and peat. All this needs to be ignited or steamed.

Now let's start sowing. fall asleep to a depth of 0.5 cm, and perennials are simply left on the surface. Now the crops need to be watered, covered with glass and put in a warm place. Periodically, crops are checked and sprayed with water.

Planting in open ground

The gardener will have to tinker with his seedlings for a long time before they become beautiful flowering bushes. When the seedlings have emerged, they are most often very densely packed. Therefore, as soon as the second pair of leaves appears, you need to make a pick in separate cups. At the same time, try not to crush the stem. Now the care of young seedlings consists in timely watering. It is advisable to carry out hardening, that is, to take out the boxes on the balcony.

As soon as the threat of frost has passed, you need to plant seedlings in open ground. Remember that the chrysanthemum is very fond of light and warmth. Leave dark corners to other plants, and give her a place in the middle of the site. It is in such conditions that she will reveal all her beauty. And one more thing: immediately after the transplant, you need to pinch all the tops. This is not the last procedure in this season. As soon as the side shoots grow by 15-20 cm, they also need to "remove their heads". Then you will get compact bushes with many inflorescences. They will please you with a long and very abundant flowering.

For newbies

If you have been gardening for the first year, then growing small-flowered chrysanthemums in the open field will be for you. great option. These vibrant, daisy-like blooms make a wonderful fall addition to your garden. It should be noted that they are unpretentious and in a temperate climate do not need warm winter quarters. But in the conditions of Siberia, it is impossible to give a 100% guarantee that your plants will survive the winter. If the ground freezes too much, then most likely they will not wake up.

To do this, you can leave 2-3 mother plants that can be taken out to the cellar. And even easier - sow annuals. They will delight you until the very cold and even after the first snow they will remain bright and fresh. And then you can simply remove them and make room for new landings. In this case, you are not limited in your imagination. Flowerbeds can differ in shape and content every year.

Eastern wisdom advises everyone who wants to live a happy life to grow. According to an ancient Chinese legend, a white dragon tried to encroach on the sun itself. He tore it with teeth and claws, and the sparks fell to the ground and turned into yellow flowers, which were later called chrysanthemums. They are depicted on the Japanese coat of arms, coins and seals, which does not interfere with Asian cakes and salads. As a garden flower, chrysanthemum has been known for 3 millennia, but interest in it is only growing.

Breeders are constantly striving to get as large-flowered varieties as possible, but gardeners are more attracted to small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums, as they are resistant to low temperatures, are good in open ground in combination with other flowers, have high decorative qualities, bloom for a long time and profusely almost until November . Therefore, it is not for nothing that the chrysanthemum is considered the queen of autumn. In addition, it is grown in pots to decorate houses, and when cut, it lasts a long time - up to 30 days, so it is ideal for bouquets.

In open ground, chrysanthemum blooms in August and pleases with its lush flowers all autumn, withstands frosts down to -7 ° C. Depending on the variety, the stems reach a height of 30-80 cm and are decorated with double, semi-double and simple inflorescences of unusually diverse shades.

In the northern regions of Russia, it is believed that it is impossible to grow chrysanthemums in the open field, but in fact they can successfully winter with a lung in central Russia and even in Siberia! In these areas, after cutting the stems, stumps 10-15 cm high are well spudded, covered with foliage and insulated.

Planting chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums do not like the slightest shading and moisture retention, so the place for them should be sunny and at least a little elevated. This is a guarantee that the shoots will not stretch, change the time and duration of flowering. However, the root system of chrysanthemums is superficial, so the soil should not be overdried.

The ideal soil for them is loose, moisture-permeable, with the optimal amount of various nutrients. With dense and infertile soil in the garden, before planting the cuttings, a little peat, or rotted, is introduced into the soil, but do not abuse them, otherwise the plants will be unnecessarily tall to the detriment of flowering. As a drainage, add a small amount of coarse sand to the soil. Soil mix is desirable.

The ideal day for planting is overcast or rainy. In hot sunny weather, plant cuttings in the early morning or late evening when the sun is less active. Pour wells with a depth of 35-40 cm with plenty of water, lay drainage, earth mixed with in a ratio of 20: 1. Chrysanthemum put and covered with earth. Root growth is parallel to the soil, so they are not too deep. For tall varieties, additional support is required.

Immediately after planting in the ground, the first pinching is carried out - the growth point is removed on the plant. 3 weeks after disembarkation, the upper part of the shoot is broken out with 2-3 nodes - the second pinch. The first days after planting, artificially shade the seedlings so that they do not suffer from bright sunlight. The best option is non-woven material, but it is desirable that it does not come into contact with the leaves.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Since varietal characteristics are not preserved during propagation by seeds, by dividing the bushes or by root shoots, which are separated from the mother bush.

In any case, it is necessary to plant and transplant chrysanthemums in spring, in May, when the cold weather passes. It is also possible at the beginning of summer - this will not affect the development of chrysanthemums. In the next video you can see the process of propagation of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush in the spring.

If you get hold of planting material closer to autumn, then plant it in the ground until September 15 so that the plants have time to take root well before the onset of frost. If you didn’t have time during this period, then plant the seedling in a shallow wide pot, cutting it low. Send the container with chrysanthemum to a dark place on a warm loggia or heated terrace, where until spring the temperature will be at +4 ... + 6 ° С - these are optimal conditions for the successful development of plants. Moisten the soil periodically throughout the winter.

Since the end of February, the chrysanthemum has been planted in and watered more often. Until the end of March, the shoots will grow back, and it will be possible to take cuttings - cut the shoots no more than 10 cm.

Chrysanthemum Care

Once a week, “feed” the flowers with mullein infusion (1:10), and before budding - for lush flowering, sometimes to build up green mass. Cancel top dressing before flowering. When fertilizing, make sure that the fertilizer solution does not fall on the leaves and does not cause a burn. Water only under the root.

For the development of young chrysanthemums, it is extremely important to provide a balanced diet in the first 2 months, as there is a very active increase in green mass. Burnt mullein and are very effective. The main rule is that it is better to underfeed the plant than to burn it.

Despite the fact that chrysanthemums tolerate cold quite well, at the end of October, protect the flower bed from frost by placing a frame with plastic wrap on it - and you will admire the flowering plants of April cuttings for another month. You will remove the frame at the end of November, transplant the bushes into pots, and on a warm, bright veranda they will bloom even in January.

If you were recently presented with a chrysanthemum in a pot, you can find out how to keep it until spring and planting in the garden from the answer to the question. And the article is a confirmation that the flower you like can be propagated by cuttings, even if you do not know the exact date of cutting.

Disease and pest control

Moisture-loving chrysanthemum abundant watering, especially in the absence of rain, helps prevent damage and that cannot stand moisture.
Many harmful microorganisms and pathogens live in the soil, therefore, after each rain, treat the plants with drugs for diseases (for example, Quadris or Previkur). Saves from root rot, it can be added to irrigation water with each top dressing.

Of all the enemies of chrysanthemums (leafworms, aphids, ticks, etc.), they are the most dangerous. Only one of them can eat several buds per night. So keep your eyes open, review your landings regularly and take action on time. Good drugs for insect control are Aktellik, Ratibor, Iskra, Fitoverm, etc.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums

Korean (small-flowered, inflorescence 2-9 cm),
Indian (large-flowered, inflorescence 10-25 cm),
Chinese and Japanese.

According to the structure of the flower varieties are divided into the following groups:

simple,
semi-double,
anemone,
terry,
flat,
hemispherical,
spherical,
curly,
pompoms,
radiant.

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According to the structure of the petal distinguish tubular and reed. For growing in the garden, the most popular chrysanthemums are Korean, they are unpretentious, beautiful, and bloom for a long time.

Large-flowered species are usually grown for cutting and arranging bouquets. I will list several popular small-flowered varieties for your garden.

Chrysanthemum Korean "Alenushka"

Bright pink non-double inflorescences 5-6 cm in diameter. Bush up to 50 cm tall. Blooms in September.

Chrysanthemum Korean "Alenushka"