Is it possible to spray currants with fruits. Is it possible to spray currants during flowering

Foreword

Currants are useful and delicious berry, also susceptible to disease and pest attacks. To protect the garden, you need to look after and process the bushes with drugs and folk remedies.

Processing currant bushes in the spring from pests and diseases

There are many diseases that can harm currants and other fruit shrubs, and therefore we will list the most famous and most common in our country, as well as tell you about how to deal with them.

Kidney mite

The most terrible pest is a kidney mite, which can be easily identified by the kidneys that are very swollen on the shoots. In the spring, they will not bloom, but simply loosen, which leads to a decrease in yield. Up to several thousand pests can easily live in each kidney. There are such methods of dealing with them:

In early spring, you need to cut out infected shoots and be sure to burn them;
Spray the plants with a solution of colloidal sulfur (10 g of mixture for 10 liters of water).

What varieties are resistant to it: video

Currant aphid

Aphids damage the leaves at the tops of the shoots, causing them to become curled and wrinkled.

Control measures:

Before the buds swell, in order to destroy the overwintering eggs of aphids, you need to spray the plants with an 8% nitrafen solution;
Chlorophos also helps (for 10 liters of water, only 20 g of solution), it is advisable to add trichlorometaphos and karbofos to the mixture.

Currant goldfish

The larvae of this pest damage young shoots, which leads to the drying out of the tops and the death of the entire shoot. As a result, the berries become smaller, and there are fewer of them. To prevent this, it is necessary to immediately break off and burn the damaged shoots.

Terry

This disease leads to the fact that the bush completely ceases to bear fruit, while you may not notice this immediately. And all because the disease acts slowly, which may well lead to the fact that both healthy and diseased berries will "live" on the same plant. That is why, in the spring, inspect the currants, trying to find diseased shoots on it, which must be immediately removed and burned.

Anthracnose

Such a disease as muhosed (anthracnose) is widespread throughout Russia. It is a fungus that infects plant leaves. The most "juice" of the disease occurs in July or August, and therefore it is advisable to start the fight in the spring.

Ways to fight:

In April, it is necessary to spray the plants and the soil under them with a 60% nitrafen solution;
In summer, it is necessary to use a suspension of 80% cuprozan and a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur, which are sprayed with shrubs before flowering, and also two weeks after it. Be sure to spray the underside of the leaves with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Powdery mildew

In the last 10-15 years, powdery mildew is very tormenting gardeners, since it attacks not only currants, but also others. fruit bushes and trees. If you allow the bush to become infected, then literally in a few years the plant will die.

There are the following ways to deal with:

Before budding, it is necessary to spray the plants with a nitrophene solution, and after flowering - with a 25% caratan or benlate solution;
In case of a strong development of the disease, it is necessary to repeat the spraying after a week.

Now you know how to spray currants in spring to rid your garden of diseases, but besides chemicals there are also folk remedies that are absolutely safe for the trees themselves and for humans.

Video about the symptoms of diseases and pests of currant bushes

Boiling water as the best remedy for the fight

Those who grow currants in their garden know perfectly well how hard it is to deal with various diseases and pests. Many are fighting a whole summer, but there is still no result, even when using the most modern means... But there is one "grandfather's method", which is considered one of the cheapest and most effective - boiling water.

Boiling currants in spring is an excellent method for controlling many pests, including the kidney mite, which lodges in the buds. After winter, the tick begins to wake up - if you do not start a fight with it in time, already on next year the bush will stop bearing fruit and even die.

At the same time, remember that boiling water helps only in spring, but not in autumn, because during this period pests are simply inaccessible, which means they will remain unharmed after watering.

Processing scheme:

It is necessary to carry out work in early spring before the buds swell, if you do this later, you can damage the young shoots;
Think in advance which bushes you will water, because the water must remain hot;
Cover the roots of the plant with plywood or tarpaulin so that the boiling water does not damage them;
For work, it is best to use a metal, not a plastic watering can, which can be deformed due to boiling water;
To increase efficiency, you can add salt or a solution of potassium permanganate to the water;
Plants need to be processed immediately after the water boils;
We scald the branches and shoots evenly, without missing a single bush, while not stopping at one plant for a long time, so as not to burn it.

Bush processing in practice: video

How to care for disease prevention

Naturally, a lot will depend not only on how you fight diseases and pests, but also on the care of the plant. It also directly depends on how high-quality your harvest will be.

The care is as follows:

Remove dry and diseased shoots with pruning shears or garden shears until buds appear. and shrubs should pass so that there are no hemp on the branches in which pests can live. A well-formed bush will give an excellent harvest the next year after planting;
It is imperative to make a stand for the bush, thanks to which you can lift the branches up, forming a kind of crown. This is necessary so that during the fruiting period the branches of the bush do not break off under the weight of the berries.;
Remove and burn garbage, old grass, leaves that can become a habitat for pests;
After the snow melts, loosen the soil to a depth of 3 cm around the bush, after which we resume watering the bushes;
At the beginning of summer, be sure to apply nitrogen fertilizers so that new ovaries form sooner.

Looking quietly at any personal plot, you will surely see bushes there. Amateur gardeners grow various varieties of this natural miracle, rich in nutrients and especially vitamins, and, as a rule, devote a lot of time and effort to this difficult task!

It also happens that in a certain moment the development of currants, the gardener notices that his plants are affected by pests and it is clear that a good harvest of berries in this case should not be expected. In addition, it is important to understand the fact that if at least one plant is infected, then all currant plantings may die.

Currant processing during flowering

Of course, in the case of pests, everything is simple - you tell me - I processed the plant and "voila"! However, what if you noticed the pests too late, and the currants gained color ???

Use of chemicals

Experienced gardeners say that it is simply impossible to spray any plant, including currants, with any chemical preparations during the flowering phase! The berries will be fortified harmful substances and they won't bring the desired benefit as in the environmentally friendly version.

Do not forget that any kind of currant is pollinated at the time of flowering. To a greater extent, insects "participate" in this business, which can simply be poisoned when the inflorescences are treated with pesticides!

Folk remedies

Along with this, it can be noted that such treatments are spraying from different kinds pests are quite real and appropriate when using folk remedies. That is, you can easily treat flowering currants from pests by diluting the infusion on onion or garlic peels, using mustard powder, or something else like that.

For such spraying, ash solutions are often used, prepared on the basis of ash obtained from burning straw, firewood or even dry sunflower bushes. Also, it will not be harmful to add laundry soap, put a few grains of potassium permanganate. In some formulations, acetic acid is even present, which also has a not too negative effect on the quality of future berries and on insects.

Why you can not spray currants during flowering

It is clear that any use of chemicals at the time of flowering of currants is undesirable, but it also happens that sometimes it is better to sacrifice this year's harvest than to lose a whole bush, and even worse, a whole row of currants. To protect insects, the bush can be covered with a thick cloth for several days. It is clearly undesirable to use the fruits from such a plant for food, but when there is a question about the strongest lesions, there is no need to choose!

Using folk remedies when spraying at the time of flowering currants will also not always be safe. The fact is that any composition, solution prepared by you should be used at such a moment as correctly as possible, and in the case of the wrong dosage, you can burn the plant and the currant inflorescences will simply drop!

With all this in mind, breeders and seasoned gardeners know that currants are best handled against pests in early spring before they bloom or in fall after harvest!

Which we talked about in last time, gardeners have to fight pests - various insects that damage currant bushes. What kind of treatment to do from pests in spring and summer? What preparations for spraying currants to use?

Kidney mite. Its females invade the kidneys, causing them to swell. These round, thick, large buds are clearly visible on bare branches in the fall, after the leaves fall, and in the spring, before they bloom. Collect these swollen buds from the branches and be sure to burn them. This is the simplest and most effective method.

If there are a lot of buds on a branch, then it should be cut out entirely and burned. If most of the bush is infected, then it must be cut off all at the root, and also burned. A new bush that has grown from replacement shoots in this place usually has no bud.

Of other pests, currants are most often attacked by blackcurrant sawfly... The pest appears at the time of the formation of large ovaries and lays eggs on them. The larvae develop inside the growing ovaries, eating away the seeds in them. The berries ripen prematurely, they are clearly visible at this moment. We must collect and destroy them.

If this is not done, then the caterpillar will gnaw through the peel, come out, go down on the cobweb to the soil and go into it for the winter. Since the larva develops at the moment when there are already green berries, it is impossible to use any pesticides, but you can use Fitoverm or Agravertin if you have no time to pick prematurely ripe large, ribbed berries.

Another common pest is gooseberry moth... Pupae of the moth winter in the upper soil layer, right under the bushes of black currants or gooseberries. Before flowering, butterflies hatch from them, which come to the surface and lay eggs on flowers. The larvae bite into the ovary and eat them, then move into the next berries, and each of them can damage up to 6-8 gooseberries or up to 10-15 black currants. These berries, entwined with cobwebs, are clearly visible, the main thing is to collect them on time.

If in the previous summer significant damage was caused by the fire, then in the spring, just before flowering, the bushes can be treated with Karbofos. Or cover the soil under the bushes with newspapers, film, so as not to let the butterflies come to the surface. But immediately after the beginning of flowering, the shelter should be removed in order to release beneficial insects.

You can use the biopreparations Fitoverm, Iskra-Bio (or Agravertin). Try another old-fashioned way. In late autumn, it is necessary to spud or mulch the bushes with peat to a height of 8-10 cm, and in the spring, immediately after flowering, uncook them.

There is another fairly common common pest in gooseberries and black currants - gooseberry moth... A smart, white, daytime butterfly, with a scattering of black and yellow spots on its wings. It appears in June-July, lays eggs on the underside of the leaves. The hatching caterpillars eat leaves, mainly on gooseberries, but they do not disdain the leaves of black and red currants.

Caterpillars are grayish, with a yellow belly and characteristic black quadrangular spots on the back. They pupate in the middle of summer in spider cocoons that hang on bushes. The simplest thing is to remove the cocoons and destroy. A good method of dealing with moths is spraying the garden with urea in the fall. Of course, you can prophylactically spray currants and gooseberries with "Fitoverm", as soon as a noticeable butterfly flashed or you found its caterpillars.

A very nasty pest of black currant - glass case, the nursery of which is the common bird cherry. The mass flight of this inconspicuous small butterfly occurs during the flowering of raspberries. At this point, protective measures should be taken.

To do this, it is enough to spray blackcurrant bushes with any decoction or infusion with a strong smell, for example, needles, tansy, onion husks, wormwood, tomato stepsons. You can spread stepchildren of tomatoes among the bushes of black currant or put coniferous branches. (They can be stored until this time in the shade on the north side of the house after you have removed them from roses, clematis and other covering crops.) An alien smell, mixing with the familiar smell of the host plant, the breadwinner, disorients the pest, and it flies by your bushes.

Females lay up to 60 eggs each, usually near cracks or lesions in the bark of branches. The hatching caterpillar gnaws at the wood and then eats out the core of the branch, gradually descending to the very bottom. During the first winter, it usually hibernates inside the branch. In the spring, the damaged branch is immediately visible, since the flowers or berries on it dry out, and then it begins to wither and dry out on its own.

If you begin to gradually cut off such a branch with a pruner, then a black core is visible. Gradually cut the branch until you reach clear wood that the caterpillar has not yet reached. All pieces of branches must be burned, if desired, the caterpillar can be found inside the cut stems. It is quite large, about 2-2.5 cm, white, with a beige head.

If you cut the stem to the ground and there was a black core in it all the time, then the caterpillar has already left the stem and went out to pupate. Spraying with "Fitoverm" after flowering black currant is excellent against this pest.

Gallica- this is a small mosquito, the adult larvae of which hibernate right under the bush, in the soil. The flower gall midge emerges during the budding period, the leaf gall midge - at the beginning of flowering, and the shoot - during the mass flowering of black currant. All types of gall midges, with a large population, strongly oppress the bush, cause the growth and development of shoots to stop, and then the branches dry out. The flowers usually turn reddish and fall off without giving ovaries. Before flowering, the bushes can be sprayed with karbofos or "Fufanon", and during the growing season, use "Fitoferm".

Sprout aphid can also attack currants. Aphids are a sucking insect, therefore, absorbable preparations should be used against them, and Fitoverm or Iskra-bio is best suited for this.

But you can get by and by simple means... Since aphids have very delicate covers, it is enough to burn them to destroy it. You can use an infusion of needles for this purpose or take 3 tbsp. spoon without top urea and add potassium permanganate until bright pink and spray. Better yet, just rinse all the ends of the branches, since aphids always suck the juices from the youngest leaves and shoots, and they are at the ends.

Aphids cannot be destroyed in one go. A flying female will fly in from somewhere and immediately lay hundreds of eggs, of which adults will grow up in a week and also lay hundreds of eggs, so you need to fight aphids weekly, except when Fitoverm is used. This drug is absorbed and keeps the defense against all sucking and gnawing pests for about three weeks.

Aphids have natural pests - predatory gall midges, as well as ladybugs and their larvae. As soon as there are too many aphids, ladybug larvae appear. They are about 7-8 mm long, black or dark gray, with orange dots on the sides. The larvae, like the ladybugs themselves, eat the aphids and their eggs.

If the bushes are sprayed with "Fitoverm", then the pests that have tasted the leaves or juice, two hours after spraying, stop feeding, because "Fitoverm" causes them paralysis gastrointestinal tract, and after two days they die of hunger. If ladybugs or other beneficial insects or birds eat these insects, nothing will happen to them.

Among the pests of black currant there are false shield, which sucks juices from the bark. It is clearly visible on the branches in the form of convex commas more light color than the bark. If you scrape it off with a knife, do not forget to put a piece of film in the shape of a baby bib under the bush so that the fallen scabbards can then be collected and burned. If this is not done, then they will again crawl from the soil to the ends of the branches.

The scale insects have a strong carapace - a chitinous cover that protects them from enemies and pesticides, but it does not save them from Fitoverm. It also does not save from spraying with a concentrated urea solution in late autumn.

Discussion

"Just before flowering, butterflies hatch from them," - a strange action, IMHO.

Comment on the article "Black currant: pest control in spring, summer and autumn"

Need for processing

Spraying or processing berry bushes is an integral part of the correct agricultural technology of a crop such as currants in a home gardening environment. The main processing measures involve the use of both strong and fairly toxic drugs, and the use of sparing methods in the form of folk remedies.

Timing and technology for spraying currants

The processing procedure for a berry culture such as currants is usually divided into the following main stages:

before bud break or early spring spraying;
active flowering stage;
processing plants after flowering;
in the fall, after the end of the harvest.

The technology of preventive measures in spring is as follows:

before the budding phase, the first event is carried out, involving the cutting of the apical part of the shoots when a grayish dense felt plaque appears with wintering mycelium of powdery mildew;
if there is a slight spread of the kidney mite, then the removal of damaged buds or full rejuvenation of the berry bush should be carried out;

against anthracnose, septoria, rust and other spots, plants should be sprayed with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or iron vitriol;
at the stage of inflorescence advancement, one more treatment is carried out - against ticks, as well as protection from sucking and leaf-eating pests by Aktellikom or Fufanon, but you can use such chemicals as Akarin, Iskra-bio and Fitoverm.

Immediately after flowering, the berry culture should be protected from powdery mildew, anthracnose, septoria, sucking and leaf-gnawing pests. Autumn processing should be done after leaf fall. During this period, the plants need to be sprayed with insectofungicides, and then collect and destroy the foliage. In the fall, pruning and destruction of all affected shoots is carried out.

The best folk remedies

Any means of protection should be used very carefully. Experts recommend applying chemicals before flowering. After the berry culture has faded, it is advisable to spray the plants exclusively with biological and folk remedies.

Effective chemicals

Chemicals for the protection of berry crops, as a rule, are used in the event of a massive appearance of insect pests or pathogens. Such drugs are most effective, but their use should be strictly regulated, which is due to the rather high toxicity indicators.

Drug name	Appointment	Terms of application	Processing features
1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate	Infection with anthracnose, septoria, rust and other spots	Mass appearance of the first leaves on the bushes
Iskra, Inta-TsM and Karbotsin			Preparations from the pyrethroid group show maximum efficiency when processing in cool weather
Actellic and karbofos	Aphids, gall midge, leafworm, sawflies and moth	Dissolving foliage and active extension of inflorescences	Organophosphate drugs should be used when temperature conditions at 15 ° C and above
Akarin, Iskra-Bio and Fitoverm	Currant kidney mite	Dissolving foliage and active extension of inflorescences	The highest processing efficiency is observed at temperatures of 24-25 ° C and above. In case of massive damage, spraying must be repeated after flowering and harvesting.
Vectra and Strobi, as well as Topaz, Tiovit Jet and colloidal sulfur	Powdery mildew, anthracnose and septoria infection	Immediately after flowering	Spraying is effective only at temperatures of 18-19 ° C and above. Massive defeat requires reprocessing after harvest

Any processing of currants from diseases and pests is carried out in dry, without rain or fog, weather. It is recommended to spray in the morning or in the evening, without the presence of scorching sun rays. Very important in mandatory accompany the use of chemicals or folk remedies with timely pruning of sanitary purposes.

Pruning currants in the spring must be carried out in order to remove diseased branches damaged by frost or wind. Autumn pruning carried out before the onset of persistent cold weather and is aimed at fully preparing the plant for winter frosts.