Do-it-yourself scaffolding. How to make scaffolding from profile pipes with your own hands

It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it is necessary to carry out them at high altitude. The design will help you safely climb the hill, do everything you need, put nearby materials that will help in business. It is inconvenient to rent building loess from a profile pipe, as it will constantly draw money, which some may not like. Alternatively, loess can be made by hand. They will be made as convenient for the owner, will provide the opportunity to climb to the desired height.

Types of loess

There are several types of loess that you can do yourself. Metal pipes are suitable for manufacturing, you can add boards to the design. If you make everything from wood, it will turn out much cheaper than metal ones. But such installations will not be able to withstand a significant load, there is a possibility of a break with a large weight installed on them.

In time, the metal frame will be completed longer, but gradually the costs of its manufacture will be covered by a reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled, rebuilt. In addition to wood, there are other types of loess:

1. Clamp. Priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. It is problematic to assemble such products, but there is an option to bend them, as required by the need.

2. Wedge. You can put a lot of weight on them.

3. Pin. They are easy enough to assemble and disassemble. They will go for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.

4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness, ease of assembly. You can collect them very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg per meter of the base surface. In construction, they are most often used, because it is not difficult to make them with your own hands.

Important:do-it-yourself building loess made from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended to stand on them together.

Making loess

Making loess from pipes is not difficult at all. To do this, you need to select the required elements, connect them in the correct sequence. To make the work go faster, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and combine them into one design.

Materials for the manufacture of loess

To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made from boards. It can be made of aluminum, but it will be possible to withstand a smaller load. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm, it is most convenient to do about a meter in width. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.

Before starting the assembly of the structure, it is necessary to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:

Profiles with a length of 1.5 m and a section of 3x3 cm. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
Pipes with a diameter of 15 mm, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
Profile for connecting elements. The section is 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
Ladder. You can insert the finished one, but if not, you can also execute it from the profile.
Bolts, nuts and washers that will secure each element. Self-tapping screws to connect the wooden parts with them.

For work, you will need to use a drill, a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making threads in the necessary elements. The earth at the installation site must be well compacted so that distortions do not occur during the manufacturing process. If the work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The ground under the loess will be strong, there will be no danger to people at a height.

It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of the parts leads to a strong inclination of the elements above and the construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably, efficiently.

Collection of loess

Building loess is assembled in the following order:

1. First you need to cut the blanks: the diagonal parts that fasten the structure, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened by about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.

2. 2 vertical posts are connected with spacers. They must be strictly horizontal.

3. The horizontal parts are connected with ties, at a distance of about 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.

4. The connecting parts are fixed.

5. Holes for bolts must be made on the supports.

6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. Diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.

It makes sense to cover the scaffolds with paint so that they last longer. If the structure is planned to be disassembled and assembled frequently, it is possible to connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of a profile 2.5x2.5 cm is inserted into them and the elements are welded.

Many people think about whether it is worth doing building loess on their own. On the one hand, this design is bulky, you will have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can just take apart the parts, but this is a long time. Wooden loess are connected only with nails, not self-tapping screws. The boards will be whole after work, they can be used in other needs.

On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height is at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.

Many works in the construction, maintenance and repair of private houses have to be carried out at height. Scaffolding, which is easy to purchase ready-made or assemble with your own hands, makes it easier and safer to carry out such activities. Independently, such structures are made from profile pipes or from wooden elements according to fairly simple schemes.

The main elements of scaffolding made of wood and metal

Scaffolding(SL) are auxiliary supporting structures. They are used for mounting wall siding and roofing, filing gables, installing gutters, decorating the facades of private houses, and performing other events. Do-it-yourself scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Regardless of the material used, they consist of the following main elements:

Vertical racks. These parts take the load from the structure and transfer it to the ground.
Jumpers. Parts of the structure that serve for the installation of the flooring. Jumpers are installed on the sides of the scaffolding.
Ties. They are horizontal and diagonal. They are necessary to give the SL frame maximum spatial rigidity.
Railing. They are the simplest fence that protects a person performing construction work from falling from a height.
Flooring. The structure is made of boards knocked together. The flooring serves as a working platform.
Stairs. Allow builders to climb up and down scaffolding.
Stubborn cuts. An important element of the structure, protecting it from overturning.

Wood scaffolding is easier to assemble. They are light in weight. Their parts are attached to each other with screws or nails. But wooden structures not suitable for heavy loads. The dismantling of such scaffolding takes a long time. They are allowed to subsequently collect a few more times to perform high-altitude work. But the strength of re-mounted structures is reduced, since holes from hardware remain in the beams and boards.

SL from a profile pipe is much more reliable. They are quickly dismantled and then promptly assembled, retaining their initially high strength characteristics. If necessary, they can be increased with additional elements.

Types of structures and their performance characteristics

All scaffolding is divided into several types depending on the design and the fasteners used to assemble them. There are the following types of structures described:

Frame.
Pin.
Wedge.
Suspended.
Clamp.

Frame structures are strong and durable in operation. They are made from metal parts with low weight (for example, from aluminum pipes). Such scaffolding has several vertical frames, which are reinforced with spacers. Often they are equipped with wheels for fast travel structures along the treated surface (walls of the house, gable).

Pin scaffolding is clumsy and heavy. They are considered the most stable and durable. Gathered from metal pipes, connected into a single structure by socket locking elements and welding (with its help, curved pieces of reinforcing bars are welded to the structure). Pin SLs are recommended for brick (stone) masonry, as they can easily withstand the heavy weight of the materials used.

Wedge scaffolds are mobile and strong enough. They combine the advantages of pin and frame structures. This is achieved through the use of special fasteners-holders, which are special slotted flanges. Wedge SL are optimal for the installation of complex facades and their maintenance.

Suspended structures, called cradles by home craftsmen, are used when decorating walls with tiles and other types of facing materials, for washing facade windows. They are not very functional, which cannot be said about clamp structures. The latter are recognized by experts as universal structures. Making clamp scaffolding is not at all easy. But with their help it will be possible to process (decorate, repair) buildings of the most complex and unusual configuration. Such structures, if necessary, easily change their shape vertically and horizontally.

Reliable wooden construction - how to do it yourself?

Frame wooden scaffolding is assembled from boards with a section of 10x5, 3-5 cm thick and a beam of 10x10 cm. The tool is required Circular Saw, drill and hammer. Nails (self-tapping screws) are used to fasten structural parts. Marking work is carried out with a tape measure and a building level. Boards with a thickness of 3 cm are designed to create stiffeners, 5 cm - for the construction of flooring. The scaffold drawing is developed taking into account the following requirements:

The maximum height of the structure is 600 cm, length - 400.
The minimum deck width is 100 cm.
The distance between the supporting posts of the structure is 200–250 cm.

For the construction of scaffolding, well-dried wood is taken. It does not allow the presence of cracks and other defects. All wooden elements are treated with solutions that prevent the development of mold and decay. Work begins with the manufacture of frames. According to the planned height of the SL, four beams are cut. The resulting blanks are placed on a flat piece of land. Two beams 360 and 400 cm long are attached to the support beams (from the inside). The second are fixed along the lower edge of the supports, the first - along the top. The result is two trapezoidal frames. They are reinforced with struts. The installation of the latter is carried out diagonally.

Frames are lifted from the ground, placed vertically, connected (temporarily) by sidewalls. The distance between the upper edges of the support posts is taken as 100 cm, between the lower ones - 115 cm. The level checks the accuracy of the horizontal mounting of the sidewalls. The made frame is connected into one piece with self-tapping screws or nails. It is preferable to use nails as fasteners. They are made of soft metal, which does not break under heavy load, but bends. Self-tapping screws are made from hardened steel, which is characterized by increased fragility. If variable or tangible shock loads act on the scaffolding, such fasteners break. This causes the SLs to fall apart.

The flooring is made from planks. They are attached to the transverse upper bars. The boards are mounted without gaps - the denser they lie, the more reliable the construction will be. On the sides of the structure, additional crossbars are being installed. These jumpers give the structure additional rigidity and serve as stairs.

Metal scaffolding - how many years are they designed for?

Profile pipe structures consist of 2–4 sections 160–200 long, 100 wide and 150 cm high. The specific number of the latter depends on the height and length of the house. Sections are made with aluminum or steel racks. In cases where scaffolding will take on serious loads, it is better to build them from steel. For Assembly metal structure you need a welding unit, an electric drill, a level, a grinder, fasteners (bolts and self-tapping screws). Scaffold decking is made from edged board(recommended thickness - 4 cm). Supports, crossbars, adapters and other parts of the structure are made of round and shaped pipes with a section of 1.5, 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm.

Spacers are cut from 1.5 cm diameter products. Diagonal parts are made 200 cm long, horizontal - 96 cm. Cuts are made at the ends of the pipes (two meters). Their length is 6 cm. After that, the tubular products are flattened at the points of cuts. The operation is performed to facilitate the connection of the bearing supports-racks and struts.

Pipes with a section of 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm are cut into segments 8 and 30 cm long, respectively. Adapters are made from the obtained blanks - special elements for increasing the height of the SL. Segments of shorter length are put on longer ones and welded together.

With the help of spacers and vertical racks, two frames are created. It is not difficult to make them - you should weld the spacers to the racks every 0.3 m of the length of the latter. The result is products that visually resemble stairs.

Plates measuring 7x7 cm are welded to the lower ends of the supports. They are cut from sheet steel. The plates will not allow the massive structure to fall under its own weight and the weight of the people working on it into the ground. If necessary, wooden bars are additionally placed under these plates during the use of scaffolding.

Welded frames are placed vertically. The fixing points of the diagonal braces are determined. Holes are made in the marked places with an electric drill. Bolts are screwed into them. All details scaffolding connect. After that, the horizontalness of the crossbars must be checked using a level. In the presence of a skew, parts of the SL are adjusted. exploit homemade design with non-horizontal crossbars is prohibited due to its low stability.

Fabrication of flooring and painting of pipe structures

The flooring of metal scaffolding is made of boards. They are laid across or along the section. In the first case, wooden blanks are fixed to pipes that are installed on the sides of the scaffolding (fastening is done with bolts). In the longitudinal direction, it is allowed to lay boards with a length of more than 200 cm. They are knocked down into one flooring (without gaps) and reinforced from deflection by transverse bars. The latter are mounted below the boards.

At the ends of the flooring, a U-shaped metal profile is mounted. Its width is 1.7–2 cm. The profile is cut to the size of the flooring and fixed to the latter with self-tapping screws. This design eliminates the possibility of shifting the boards.

Scaffolding from a profile pipe is used repeatedly. They are easily disassembled and assembled as needed. To prolong their service life, it is recommended to paint SL. Painting is carried out according to a simple scheme:

all elements of scaffolding are carefully sanded;
metal surfaces are dedusted;
pipes are primed.

After the soil dries, painting is carried out. It is advisable to apply a layer of paint on the flooring from the boards, having previously treated the wood with an antiseptic composition.

Or the production of such construction works as painting the facade or filing cornices, scaffolding is widely used.

Currently, it is possible to rent inventory scaffolding or scaffolding, and return it after the work is completed. But this is justified only in the production of work that takes a short period of time. If the construction is carried out exclusively on their own and for a long enough time, then the rent will be very expensive. Therefore, most of the future property owners prefer to make scaffolding with their own hands.

Most often, private traders use the following types of forests:

Scaffolding based on trestles - suitable for such “quick” work as painting the facade of a not too high house, installing cornice roof overhangs. If desired, they can also be used to fill the formwork with concrete and brickwork walls.
Scaffolding envelopes are used mainly in the construction of houses.
Attached wooden frame scaffolding - good for both construction and home renovation.

Scaffolding on goats

Traguses are often used not only in construction, but also in external and interior decoration Houses. Their advantages are:

cheapness;
ease of manufacture;
light weight;
mobility.

Such scaffolding consists of two trestles, knocked together from boards, and a flooring, which can be either just a set of individual boards cut to length, or a solid knocked down board shield. Using a shield allows you not to worry that the boards will “disperse” under your feet.

For the manufacture of goats you need:

edged board with a thickness of 30 - 50 mm;
nails or screws;
for screeding parts together, you can use steel corners 50 * 50 mm (if any);
drill or screwdriver;
hammer;
roulette.

Beforehand, it is desirable to throw a simple sketch with dimensions in order to properly cut and prepare the parts for assembly. The central bar of the tragus can be either just a thick board or a structure of three boards like a channel, to which the legs are sewn at an angle.

Greater rigidity, the legs can be pulled together with crossbars, and jibs can be nailed from the ends. The length of the deck depends on how large the work area needs to be. But do not make the flooring too long, otherwise you will have to put another tragus in the center.

Envelope scaffolding

This is a design that is attached directly to the wall.

The main structural part of such scaffolding is triangular support platforms made of boards 50 mm thick. They are l-shaped brackets, sheathed on the sides with a board (25 * 100 mm). The size of one shelf of such an arm usually does not exceed 400 mm. This is due to the fact that the shelf is a support for the working platform. A smaller size can lead to a lack of space on the scaffolding, and a larger one can cause the structure to detach from the wall and, as a result, injure people working on the scaffolding.
The brackets are attached to the wall at a height where the installation of the working floor is planned. They are usually fixed with nails, pressing the vertical arm of the bracket against the wall.
Additionally, the brackets are supported by long boards-supports with a section of 100 * 50 mm, installed at an angle and rested on the ground. For better adhesion to the ground, the lower ends of the props are pointed.

Wood for the manufacture of envelopes must be of high quality, this provides the structure with sufficient reliability.

wooden scaffolding

Most often, in the low-rise sector, wooden scaffolding is used, consisting of a system of supports and flooring. They serve both to lift workers to the required height, and to place them on them. building materials and tool.
Forests can be of considerable height and be multi-tiered. There are some General requirements, which apply to all scaffolding and scaffolding:

They must be reliable. The margin of their strength should allow them to easily withstand the weight of materials and workers placed on them.
The design should be economical, but not at the expense of reliability.
The design of scaffolding should be simple and convenient not only for operation, but also for assembly and disassembly.
It is desirable that the material of scaffolding and scaffolding can be reused after construction is completed.

The simplest scaffold design consists of the following elements:

Support legs - vertical supports, which can be made of high-quality edged boards (100 * 50 mm) or timber (100 * 100 mm). It is important that the boards and beams are intact, without rot, cracks and insect damage. If necessary, the racks can be spliced along the length. The elements are joined end-to-end and fixed with side plates.
crossbars - it is they who, taking the load from the working floor, transfer it to the racks. The same requirements apply to the material of the cross members as for the uprights. They must be one single element. If splicing is necessary, then it is carried out with an additional support.
Braces - connect the racks diagonally. They can be made from slats or even slabs.
Flooring - ladders laid on the crossbars. They are the main work surface.

Edged or unedged boards can be used. Top flooring can be sewn sheet material. To prevent materials and tools from falling from the flooring, a board board is sewn along its outer part. To give the structure greater stability, it can be supported by slopes, which are made from boards 25–30 mm thick.

Scaffolding Rules

To build scaffolding, you will need the following tool:

saw;
level;
hammer.

When erecting wooden scaffolding the following rules must be observed:

Before installing scaffolding, it is necessary to level and tamp the base. , then to support the racks it is necessary to make wooden platforms.
The step of the racks can be 1 - 2 m.
Each structural node must have at least three attachment points.
As fasteners, it is better to use large self-tapping screws. If nails are used for this, then with reverse side they need to be bent.
FROM inside racks, it is necessary to install handrails - this will prevent workers from falling from the scaffolding.
For the convenience of work, the width of the flooring between the racks should be from 50 to 100 cm.

Work procedure

Scaffolding is assembled in the following sequence:

First, with the help of diagonal ties, the racks are fastened together. For reliability, you can use not only nails and screws, but also corners.
Then, at the required height, the elements of the crossbars are attached.
Horizontal decking boards are fixed on them.
Railings are sewn on.
If necessary, to give the structure additional stability, slopes are installed.
To climb the scaffolding, it is also necessary to secure it to the side of the scaffolding, although ladders can also be used.

For greater reliability, using additional wooden elements, scaffolding can be connected to the wall of the house.

If in own forces and you are afraid that it may be difficult to collect self-made scaffolding, you can choose the option of renting collapsible scaffolding.

Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can do. If you are building a house, cottage or country cottage then do not rush to give money for ready product. In our material we will share the best instructions how to make a design yourself.

1. What are scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the most general sense, scaffolding is a frame device created from constituent parts and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to world standards. They are designed to protect the activities of workers who are working on the construction or restoration of multi-storey buildings.

1.1. Types of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made from metal and wood. And now let's see what modifications there are, depending on the type of connection of the components included in them:

Wedge. They are indispensable when using massive materials and knots. So, you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most ambitious front of work. Another significant plus is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. Especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly / disassembly of the product. Based on the name, it is the pin that is the connection node.

Frame. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the rest in a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with diagonal and horizontal racks with nodal fasteners. The cost will not hit the wallet.

Clamp. By themselves, they are quite complex in execution: they are applicable at objects of increased importance. Produced according to the individual parameters of the room. Literally all the nuances are taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each type of scaffolding.

1.2. Device

Products have details such as:

jumpers for flooring;
spacers;
enclosing element;
stops;
plank flooring;
racks;
ladder (ladder).

2. Do-it-yourself rules for mounting wooden and metal scaffolding

The first step begins with a well-designed drawing. Listen to the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the racks is in the range from two to two and a half meters. The standard level for the location of jumpers for the initial flooring is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one, mounting on a hill from 180 to 200 cm. And finally, for the third one, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

Do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards involves the following materials:

boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or timber with a special section (10 * 10 cm). They will be needed for processing persistent braces and racks;
edged board "30" is useful in the formation of railings, screeds and spacers;
screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling high scaffolding, and the latter are at a break and for compact products.

Step #1 Four racks are cut along the height of the scaffolding. On cleared of debris and foreign objects section they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step no 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step no 3. As a result, we have two "ladder" frames. Next, we mount in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen the screeds (horizontal and diagonal).

Step no 4. We prepare a strong flooring from the bars. Then we securely mount it on horizontal jumpers.

Step no 5. The turn comes with direct manipulations with forests. They are connected on two side cuts-stops.

Step No 6. And only after that the railing and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Profile pipe products: detailed instructions

By its principle, this type of scaffolding is assembled in a similar way. However, consider some nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in the levels of the product is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

Bolts with nuts and washers (in the amount of ten pieces). They are very easy to fasten the diagonal ties and then fix to the racks of the scaffold base.
Profile pipe. They need to take about eight segments. Material parameters: 25×25 mm or 35×35 mm. Provide an additional copy for the installation of railings. It will need one piece (up to two meters).
For thrust bearings, buy four plates. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10×10 cm.
For racks and jumpers, take eight segments: equally 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
Diagonal ties must be formed from four segments (the optimal length is about two meters) of a round pipe. It is best if its value of its parameter does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get to work

The first thing they start with assembling scaffolding with their own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure rack to the OSB sheet, which is the assembly shield. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
Next, we securely attach the jumpers (horizontal) to the racks, and only then we fix the adapters (from parts of the pipes) to the upper ends of the racks (the optimum indent is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
After that, the finished device (a tandem of jumpers with racks) is first detached from the assembly shield for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotation by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as the correct processing of thin-walled pipes (for diagonal stretch marks). For our purposes, we beat off their ends and middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we get spans for bolts.
Very carefully (in the center) we screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
We join the racks with couplers with nuts and bolts.
Now let's deal with the railings and racks separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
Thrust bearings (plates) are fastened with pieces of pipes. To do this, we use a welding machine.
At the final stage, the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide for thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
We make a high-quality and solid flooring from an ordinary edged board, which is placed above the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called "magpie" for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decides to assemble scaffolding on their own should know about:

If you are faced with the task of increasing the scaffolding in length, then you need to obey this logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent racks.
When you attach the ties, then follow the alternation: on the scaffolding, they are mounted on different sidewalls.
Not always, but overhaul or large-scale construction, you may find it necessary to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you can not do without a profile pipe of persistent cutting, which serves for the stability of scaffolding. Your action: create holes in the racks.
metal corners(3 * 3 cm) will prevent the shift of the flooring. They are mounted on the area of contact contact with the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves the dismantling of the structure from top to bottom in a sequence, reverse installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations it is necessary:

inspect the scaffolding for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, inventory, etc.;
fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
all exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
make sure that the tools are in working order;
a safety belt is required when the design long time has not been used and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of product are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Pay special attention to wall mounts, which are disassembled according to a similar principle: remove the fastening hooks that are located above the manipulated tier. Masters advise when dismounting almost all scaffolds (except for the clamp variety) to remove the components of the tier and put it on the ground.

So let's get started.

First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fastening devices above the flooring of each tier - diagonal ties within the boundaries of this tier.
Secondly, we move on to the flooring shield. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one under consideration.
Thirdly, the railings are removed from the staircases, then the racks. And further - boards of platforms and stairs. And finally, the turn of the tier frame comes: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
The wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are rubbed with a special compound.

Throughout the process, you can not do without ropes and blocks - reliable lifting devices. The elements received after dismantling must be inspected and packed in order to store or transport scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of mounting scaffolding, it's time to put into practice the knowledge gained. And if you seriously think about where, then the Stroyka ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photo and video: www.google.ru.

All photos from the article

When carrying out various works at height - from laying walls to cladding the facade or applying plaster, the construction of structures is required that will allow you to perform work comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.

Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which is a prefabricated modular systems who may have the most different size, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards, it is this option that we will consider in the article.

What is required for work

Before you build scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:

Racks	For them, either a board with a size of 50x100 mm or a wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm is used, these elements will carry the main load and hold the entire structure, therefore, only high-quality lumber without large knots, damage by woodworms and rot should be used, this is very important to ensure safety
Flooring and lintels	For these elements, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm is used, it is important that the flooring can easily withstand the weight of several people and a small supply of materials (if necessary)
Spacers	Elements that give rigidity and maintain the geometry of the structure being erected are made of a board 30-32 mm thick, it is also used to create fences, which are essential to ensure a safe work process, because it is never excluded that someone will slip or stumble on the scaffolding
fasteners	Either nails or self-tapping screws of large thickness are used to ensure maximum reliability and strength of all connections. Can also be used modern version- mounting angles and plates, with their help, the structure can be made even more reliable and durable, besides, the price of these elements is low

Important!
Do not forget about the tool, as it will require cutting wood, hammering nails or screwing screws, as well as taking measurements, for this it is easiest to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.

The working process

The instruction on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards is quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, it is with them that we will begin to consider the issue.

Basic design requirements

There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the scaffolding you collect and ensures the highest safety:

The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with a longer span, the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
The width of the decks to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but it is also not recommended to make the structure wider than one and a half meters, as the stability of the system will suffer;
The maximum safe height of the structure is 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the maximum length of the lumber is the same, and it is not recommended to build up the elements.

Stages of work

The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a certain sequence:

First you need to connect the first 4 racks, for this, the long side is first fastened, this is done with the help of diagonal struts, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which the end sides are connected using all the same struts, then the resulting structure must be put up and checked for stability, if necessary, reinforcement is made using additional jumpers and perforated corners;

Next you need to fix the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be carried out. It is important to calculate everything correctly in order to ensure the convenience of the process, if two rows of flooring are used, two rows of jumpers are made accordingly, they will also serve as elements that provide rigidity, it makes sense to mount on corners with stiffeners to further strengthen the support;
The flooring is arranged on fixed jumpers, for its device, only a reliable board is taken without cracks and damage, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the desired length so that the extra parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fixed with self-tapping screws, since the wood cracks much less from them, and fixation is obtained much better;

Next, you need to attach the elements of the fence, their location directly depends on the location of the flooring. The general rule is that the elements should be at least waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail two rows of board for even more security. Here lumber is used with a thickness of at least 30 mm, so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
The next step is installation supporting elements , their number and configuration depends on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the forests and the reliability of the soil around the house. Here it is important to learn one simple rule - the supports are installed as much as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well on the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;

Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: the bar is fixed at one end on the rack and the other on the wall.