Assembly of metal scaffolding scheme. How to make scaffolding

in construction or repair work carried out at height, scaffolding is indispensable. A construction fixture can be rented for the duration of the job, but it's not cheap, especially for long-term renovation projects. Having calculated the required height and configuration, scaffolding can be designed independently.

The purpose of scaffolding is the possibility of delivering building materials to the height and the safety of builders staying there during work. To do this, the design must be stable, durable, with a lifting, lowering and protection mechanism. Wood or metal is best for building scaffolding.

Scaffolding consist of several elements:

  • support frames - this is the frame, it bears the main load;
  • decks (scaffolds) on which builders and working material are located;
  • railings to protect against accidents;
  • stops - for a stable position;
  • struts (diagonal and horizontal) - for the strength of the racks and uniform weight distribution;
  • ladders for ascent and descent.

During the construction or maintenance of a private house, you have to perform work at height. Not all work can be done with a ladder or ladder. In such cases it is necessary to use scaffolding.
Scaffolding can be made from various materials. The most common are metal and wooden scaffolding.
Metal scaffolding has great advantages. They are distinguished by their stability, safety and durability. But the cost of this design is quite considerable. And the difficulties in assembling and the large dimensions of the structure are not the most acceptable option.
An alternative to metal scaffolding are wooden ones, which are easy to assemble and cost several times less. Another advantage of wood scaffolding is that almost every one of the materials at hand can assemble them, while using only available tools. Wooden scaffolding can be moved independently to any distance and stored unassembled for a long time. Due to the many advantages, many people choose wooden scaffolding for construction and installation work.
Making wooden scaffolding is not difficult. It is enough to choose high-quality and durable wood right size. Since the construction of the scaffolding is temporary, it can be made from wood and boards, which are “not standard”.

The process of making scaffolding

1. The first step is to make a base. To do this, we take two beams and fix them together with the help of auxiliary boards. We fix the boards with self-tapping screws.

2. We cut the upper part of the timber at an angle. The bevel on the beam is necessary for the further fastening of the remaining structural parts.


3. The finished part of the base looks like:


4. Next, we attach a board 1 m long to the cut point.


5. Consistently fasten three more parts of the manufactured bars to the upper bar. Due to the presence of bevels on the bars, the design acquires a stable shape.


6. In order for the scaffolding structure to be more reliable and durable, it is necessary to strengthen it with the help of auxiliary slats. We fix the slats in the upper and middle parts of the structure. We perform this work on both sides of the stand.


7. Additionally, we fix the stand at the base from several sides.


8. The finished part of the scaffolding looks like:


9. It is also possible to strengthen the design of the stand in the central part, while placing the mounting boards diagonally.


10. To perform work, a wooden flooring is laid out on stands, which will serve as a place of movement.


11. Scaffold stands can be made as many as necessary to perform safe work. Stands are easy to carry from place to place, while not disassembling them. In addition, a similar design can be used on various terrain and when performing work of any complexity.


12. Height wooden scaffolding can be adjusted by increasing the height of the wooden deck.

It is difficult to imagine a construction site without scaffolding. With them, walls are erected and finished, roofs are made, gutters are installed, etc. In each case, they must be strong and reliable. If renting factory-made scaffolding is expensive, make scaffolding from profile pipe with your own hands. This is often done in individual construction, where the height of houses rarely exceeds two floors. How to assemble these simple designs, this article will tell

Types of scaffolding

Construction scaffolds are made entirely of wood or metal pipes combined with boards.

On a note! Homemade scaffolding should not be subjected to heavy loads. No more than 2 people are allowed on them at the same time.

Scaffold materials

For the construction of frame scaffolding, steel racks and frames will be required. The flooring is made from wooden planks. Aluminum structures are lighter and can withstand less stress. For one section, the following dimensions are recommended:

  • height - 150 cm,
  • width - 100 cm,
  • length - 165-200 cm.

The number of sections determines the height of the building and the perimeter of the outer walls of the house.

A simple option for homemade scaffolding

Before proceeding with the assembly of frame scaffolding, the following materials should be purchased:

  • profile for vertical racks with a square section of 3x3 cm and a length of 150 cm;
  • pipe (diameter 15 mm) for the installation of horizontal and diagonal struts;
  • profile for connecting inserts with a square section of 2.5x2.5 cm (the flooring rests on them) and fences;
  • boards for flooring 2-2.5 m long and 4-5 cm thick;
  • ladder to climb (if not finished product, it is assembled from a profile and placed between the side posts);
  • bolts with nuts and washers for connecting structural elements;
  • self-tapping screws for fastening wooden elements.

Note! In the course of work, you will have to use a hacksaw or a grinder, a drill with a drill for metal, welding machine. Connections can also be made with special threaded fasteners.

Frame construction rules

Before starting the assembly of scaffolding, the ground should be carefully compacted in the area where they are placed. When carrying out work in the rainy season, it is desirable to make a drainage system. So the soil under the scaffolds will not be washed away, and the structure will remain initially strong and reliable. For the stability of the structure, boards are placed under the support posts.

Wooden frames designed for light weight

Important! Even a small play at the joints or incompletely screwed threads can cause the scaffold to tilt or collapse, and this poses a danger to people's lives.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is assembled in the following sequence.

    1. Cut pipe blanks - for diagonal struts 2 meters long, and for horizontal struts - 1 meter. Pay attention! Two-meter spacers are cut 7-8 cm from each end and flattened. In the future, this will simplify the connection of parts to the profile.
    2. Connect the two vertical posts together with spacers. Make sure they are in a horizontal position.
    3. Connect the horizontal sections of the scaffolding with ties (the distance between them should be 30 cm). Subsequently, you will lay the boards on them.
    4. Fasten the connecting elements.
    5. Drill holes for the bolts on the supports and racks.
    6. Finally assemble the structure from the profile pipe (fix the boards with self-tapping screws).
    7. Clean the scaffolding and cover it with paint.
    8. Check the drawings according to which scaffolding was made from pipes with your own hands.

On a note! Temporary structures from several sections are connected by adapters. To do this, cut off 8-10 cm pipes with a section of 3x3 cm, thread a section of the profile with a section of 2.5x2.5 cm into it. The parts are connected by welding.

The feasibility of facilities

Some people are concerned about the question of whether it is advisable to make scaffolding on their own. The following arguments are presented as an argument against them.

  • Scaffolding is not a small structure, like a scaffolding goat. And this bulky structure after the completion of construction will need to be stored somewhere.

After completion of the work, the wooden scaffolding is dismantled, but this takes a lot of time. Boards, if they are not urgently needed, will also have to be folded somewhere. It should be borne in mind that wood scaffolding is knocked down with nails, and not assembled using self-tapping screws. Boards after such disassembly will not remain intact, moreover, they are often stained with mortar or paint.

Temporary structures of their pipes can be rented out

Note! Do-it-yourself metal scaffolding can be rented out.

  • Home-made construction scaffolds are used for work that is carried out at a height not higher than the second floor. With a higher number of storeys, the use of such scaffolding is associated with a danger to the life of workers.
  • The need for this design rarely arises (when repairing the facade). At the same time, you have to spend a lot of time on its assembly and disassembly, which may seem unprofitable.
  • Often long temporary structures are required, made of a profile pipe. They differ in considerable weight and it is difficult to rearrange them even for a group of people from 3-4 people.

Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe is a matter of personal choice. They help on different stages construction and after completion of construction can be rented out. So you pay for your labor and materials.

Video: homemade scaffolding

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and designs in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at heights.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which serves for lifting and working at height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements apply to scaffolding:

  1. Reliability. The system of elements must withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
  2. Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembly / disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or an entry-level specialist.
  3. Thrift. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
  4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to maximize the use of the structure and individual elements. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the building structure.

Standard wood scaffolding

The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming a frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports from edged board good quality. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Rack Requirements:

  1. Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
  2. Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
  3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board must not be broken, cracked, rotten, crooked, of variable section, with excessive wane or holes.
  4. The board must not be infested with insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splicing of the racks. Elements should be butt-jointed, not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.

Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to the requirements for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced ​​cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross bars. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and run-up is allowed.

Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. It is allowed to use rails, slabs. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to connect the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to avoid deflection from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, observing which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from the requirements of safety and the experience of high-altitude masters:

  1. The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, do wooden platforms for pole support.
  2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
  3. For each node - at least 3 attachment points. With multi-point mounting - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
  4. Use powerful self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the back side.
  5. Always install handrails with inside racks.
  6. Use a frontal board (fence at the flooring).
  7. Racks at the interface must be trimmed.
  8. The spacing of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffold assembly

For creating wooden structure scaffolding will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

  1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
  2. We collect the "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a cross bar.

Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90°. Skews can deform the frame under load.

  1. We sew the frame with a diagonal.
  2. We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
  3. Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at the maximum height so that they stand without support.
  4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
  5. Place the deck board on the cross members and fix it. Reinforce bracing.
  6. Fix the flooring on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
  7. Install the rest of the "envelopes" and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or flooring sheets must fall on the crossbar!

  1. Install handrail and front board.
  2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
  3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then connect the edge of this board with the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - the dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for wooden scaffolding

Steel Crossbar - Bracket

This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross section of the board.

triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows the scaffold to be attached directly to the wall. For a flooring device based on it, several boards for a ladder are enough. But at the same time, for rearrangement, you have to dismantle it. Mounting something from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-altitude scaffolding. When working, special skill and caution are required.

Bricklayer Express Scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while they are quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant, and sometimes serious consequences.

It will not be difficult for the owner of a private house to make scaffolding with his own hands, if he has the skills to handle welding equipment and various tools. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repair of surfaces of facades of buildings at a height. The structure is erected around the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the walls of the facade.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden shields. The construction of the buildings is a frame of vertical supporting elements with horizontal links. Platforms are floorings made of wooden boards or other materials. Communication between different levels of the structure is carried out using stairs. Scaffolding consists of structural elements such as:

  1. Shoes.
  2. Vertical racks and horizontal connections.
  3. Flooring.
  4. Railing.
  5. Stairs.
  6. Net.

shoes

Supports for vertical racks are shoes (thrust bearings). Usually these are metal platforms with vertical nests for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, gaskets and rolling shoes made of wood or metal are used.

Shoes are finite structural elements scaffolding, transferring the entire load from the structure to the ground base. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the places for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will warp, and the structure will become unusable. To prepare the support sites, a level or laser level is used.

Vertical racks and horizontal connections

Racks perform the main load-bearing function. For forests of low height within 2 - 3 storey building apply wooden beam. Much more often used racks of metal pipes.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as horizontal connections are installed. Connection nodes between frame elements are performed in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the sites of structures.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, performs the function of connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffold frame.

railing

All openings facing outward must have railings. Fences are made of timber 50 × 50 mm. The railing is located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

stairs

Transitions between different levels of the sites are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be completely wooden or welded from a steel profile. Dural ladders are not uncommon in the arrangement of forests.

It is advisable to install the stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows the worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Net

According to the requirements of building codes and regulations (SNiP), all scaffolding must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine-mesh green polymer coating (international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

  • Prevents accidental fall of workers.
  • Prevents falling out various items outside the work area.
  • Protects from bright sunlight.
  • Protects the facade of the building during painting work from the penetration of dust from the outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the posts along the facade of the building is made from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines the transverse dimension between the outer and inner fencing of the scaffolding, must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

To build a lumber frame, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • Hand or circular saw.
  • Hammer and pincers.
  • Roulette and level.
  • Nails.
  • Wooden beam with a section of 100 × 100 mm, 50 × 50 mm.
  • Boards with a section of 100 × 30 mm, 100 × 40 mm.

The thickness of lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. Lumber must be dry, without large knot formations and cracks. Under no circumstances should you use raw wood. In addition to the fact that a wet tree has a lot of weight, it can significantly deform when it dries.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

  1. On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to the size of the height of the scaffolding.
  2. Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
  3. Racks are knocked down with nails by crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at the rate of not more than 50 cm from the ground. The top beams should be level with the deck.
  4. The resulting frames are laid on their side, securing the position with temporary supports.
  5. The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
  6. The structure is turned over to the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal ties are repeated.
  7. During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
  8. Platforms from pieces of board are nailed to the supports from below.
  9. On the places where the forests will stand, roofing felt or roofing material is laid.
  10. The scaffold is raised to a vertical position in such a way that the legs of the structure fit exactly into the intended places.
  11. With the help of linings, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
  12. Install the flooring. The flooring is a downed longitudinal boards with a transverse beam.
  13. Floor boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
  14. WITH outside scaffolding above the flooring is nailed with railings from boards.
  15. Install a ladder leading to the upper platform.
  16. For convenient and safe movement of workers, a railing for the stairs is installed.
  17. As the structure is erected, based on the individual characteristics of the facade, temporary fixation of the scaffolding can be applied with the help of additional connections with the elements of the building. These are struts, slopes and so on.

At the end of the work, the forests are dismantled into separate elements that can serve to meet other needs of the household plot.

Types of homemade scaffolding from metal pipes

The supporting structures of metal profile scaffolding may differ in the way the load-bearing elements are connected. These are wedge, clamp and pin fasteners.

Wedge scaffolding

Connection nodes include support platforms with mounting holes, which include wedge-shaped holders of support elements. Making such designs yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fasteners

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite laborious and time consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that the structures can “hug” the facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to the simplicity of design and high reliability, pin scaffolding are especially popular with home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacture and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you start making multi-level pipe scaffolding, you need to prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools:

  • Electrical block.
  • Corner machine (Bulgarian).
  • Electric drill.
  • Bending device.
  • Level.

Materials:

  1. Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
  2. Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
  3. Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
  4. Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
  5. Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step-by-step instruction

  1. Smooth reinforcement is cut into segments, 40 cm long.
  2. On the bending device, the pieces of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, receiving support pins.
  3. The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. Half a piece of smooth reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is put on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
  4. A pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, equal in length to the height of the scaffolding.
  5. Sleeves 200 mm long are cut from a pipe ø 20 mm with a grinder.
  6. A tape measure and a marker mark the places for welding vertical sleeves.
  7. The sleeves are welded to the vertical posts. On the corner supports, the sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 between them.
  8. On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
  9. Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are turned down.
  10. Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20 × 20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
  11. The height of the nests (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Usually nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
  12. The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
  13. Shields are knocked down from boards and timber with nails, which will serve as flooring.
  14. Where the flooring will rest on the extreme beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the bottom of the shield. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards in such a way that the beam from the pipe passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire frame of the scaffolding.
  15. In the joints of the shields, segments from a steel angle are welded to the transverse beam on both sides so that the horizontal shelves of the angles are flush with the pipe.
  16. Pins of horizontal connections are inserted into the nests.
  17. In places where stair passages will be adopted, openings are left between the flooring boards.
  18. If it is necessary to lengthen the racks in height, then sleeves from pipes of a larger diameter are welded to the upper ends of the supports, which form the nests for attaching the upper racks.
  19. Ladders are welded from segments of the same pipes.
  20. Racks lead to a vertical position.
  21. The pins are inserted into the sockets.
  22. Lay the flooring.
  23. Install stairs.

The forests are ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Clamp scaffold assembly

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. Of the tools, only wrenches are required.

Along with this, it should be noted that the installation and removal of clamps require a significant amount of time. Clamps are quite expensive. The assembly of such scaffolding will require a large amount of fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

When preparing pipe elements before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. For this it is good to use grinder with emery wheel.

After that, the structures are primed with an agent for outdoor work on metal. Dried pipes are covered with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

With intensive exploitation of forests, metal elements tinted once a year. If the scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are tinted as needed. Store scaffolding in a dry ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This is the popular name for simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of bricks or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple fixture, which is triangles with a right angle.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console is placed on the axis. The console at one end presses the vertical structure with one of the legs against the wall of the building, and at the other end rests against the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring is supported.

Do-it-yourself "Armenian scaffolds" are far from safe, and they must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly pay for all the costs of manufacturing structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.