Or Spathiphyllum - an ornamental houseplant with large and shiny green leaves and white flowers. Unfortunately, it often happens that the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn yellow or blacken and the flower loses its beautiful color. appearance. What is the reason, what to do? Find out why spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or black, how to help the plant regain its health and former brilliance!
Over watering
The most common cause of yellowing leaves is too much watering. Spathiphyllum does not tolerate long-lasting high humidity of the substrate. The plant is best watered when the substrate is clearly dry, light and loose, the leaves are slightly lowered. Constantly wet soil leads to rotting of the roots and the development of fungal diseases. Manifested by wilting and yellowing of the leaves and premature drying of the inflorescences. If, after removing the yellow leaves, the plant does not form new ones, it indicates the imminent death of the root system. To save the flower, it is necessary to pull it out of the substrate, remove all roots damaged during decay and transplant into fresh soil.
Excessive lighting
The reason for the yellowing of the spathiphyllum is exposure to direct sunlight. Spathiphyllum should be grown in a semi-shaded place, protected from direct sun. Too much light will result in pale green leaves and yellowing. The plant is delayed in growth and flowering. It is necessary to move the plant to a less sunny place.
dry air
The reason for the darkening of the spathiphyllum is too dry air during the heating season. When the humidity is too low, browning of leaf tips. To prevent further damage, immediately raise the humidity level around the plant. Every day, the flower is sprayed with soft water at room temperature. The best option is to install a spathiphyllum pot on a stand 2 cm larger than the pot, filled with stones (it can be expanded clay) and water (the top layer of water should not touch the bottom of the pot). Water from the stand, evaporating, will humidify the air around the spathiphyllum. The water on the stand should be changed regularly.
hard water
Leaf browning can be caused by hard water. For watering and spraying spathiphyllum, you can not use water directly from the tap. A simple solution is to fill the vessel with water and set for 8-12 hours in a dark place. The settled water is used for watering and spraying plants. For irrigation, you can use rainwater or from a well, but you must first heat it to the temperature of the room in which the spathiphyllum is grown.
Excess fertilizer
The tips of the spathiphyllum leaves turn brown and dry due to excess fertilizer. Spathiphyllum is sensitive to salinity of the substrate. Should not be over fertilized. Top dressing is applied from April to September no more than once every 2 weeks. It is better to apply liquid fertilizers, diluted with water, applying half the dose recommended by the manufacturer.
Fertilization should be stopped after transplanting into a new pot, and after moving it to a new location (for example, from a flower shop home). The plant takes time to acclimatize in a new environment, and the delivery of a large dose of nutrients at this point will be difficult. The first top dressing can be carried out only after 2-3 weeks.
Draft
The blackening and drying of the leaves are the result of a cold draft while airing the room on a frosty day. If the plant pot is near a window that is frequently opened, there is a risk of the plant freezing (in winter). Spathiphyllum in the autumn-winter period is best grown on the windowsill of a window that does not open.
aging process
Single yellowed leaves do not necessarily signal something bad, in the process of aging the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn yellow, it is necessary to systematically cut off from the plant. This is a completely natural phenomenon and should not cause concern.
Attack of the common spider mite
Spider mites rarely appear on spathiphyllum due to the need to maintain high humidity around the flower. But sometimes during the heating season, especially on non-sprayed plants, a spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) can settle. Ticks are a fairly common pest of houseplants. The presence of a mite is signaled by mosaic yellow spots and a delicate cobweb on the underside of the leaves. All yellowed leaves must be removed and the level of air humidity increased. The flower can be additionally washed with water with laundry soap. The plant is sprayed with natural preparations intended for spraying at home.
Diseases
Yellow or brown spots may indicate a fungal disease. The most dangerous disease of spathiphyllum is leaf spot(Cylindrocladium spathiphyllum). Symptoms appear first on the lower leaves, turn yellow and wither. At the site of infection, 1 cm, round, dark brown spots form. Spots sometimes appear on the petioles of the leaves. With a strong defeat, when trying to extract the plant from the ground, the aerial part is easily separated from the roots. The disease develops as a result of splashing water during irrigation. contributes to the development of the disease heat(21-29 °C) and too high air and substrate humidity. The course of the disease is rapid. The death of the plant occurs in 2-4 weeks. After detecting symptoms of the disease, diseased parts or the entire plant must be removed, all neighboring plants should be sprayed 1-2 times with an interval of 10 days with a fungicidal preparation.
» refers to perennial evergreens from the Aroid family. The birthplace of this popular in our country tropical plant considered to be America, as well as the Philippine Islands. Under natural conditions, some species are found in the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, Colombia, Guyana and Brazil.
In indoor floriculture, the plant is unpretentious, but there are still problems. Most often, beginner amateur flower growers are faced with the fact that the spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or the appearance of the aerial part changes. To understand why even very young leaves turn yellow in an ornamental plant, and also what to do if, under conditions, it would seem, proper care the flower turns completely yellow, it is very important to determine the cause of external trouble in a timely manner.
Botanical characteristic
In indoor gardening, flowering of the spathiphyllum, depending on the observance of the care technology, can be observed once a year, in the spring, or twice a year, in the spring and in the autumn-winter period. With proper, high-quality care, the growth and development of room culture is quite fast.
A perennial herbaceous stemless plant has long oblong dark green leaves, located on petioles with an extension in the upper part. Flowering is very showy and long lasting. The flowers are collected in an ear of white coloration and have an environment in the form of a white or light green bedspread.
Domestic amateur flower growers know several. The most widespread spathiphyllum profusely flowering or Spatiphyllum floribundum, which has an underground creeping stem and leaves 20-22 cm long. The length of the peduncle is about 20-25 cm. Flowering is almost year-round. Also, there is widespread spathiphyllum pleasant or Spatiphyllum blandum, which is characterized by larger leaves and a light green flower spathe. Flowering is also almost year-round.
Of particular interest for indoor floriculture is a miniature Spathiphyllum Wallis or Spathiphyllum Wallisii. A medium-sized veil in the process of development and growth changes white color to green. Flowering occurs from early spring until the last decade of autumn. The most common reason Spatiphyllum does not bloom, regardless of species, is a combination low level lighting and low humidity. In addition, old houseplants hardly pass to the flowering stage.
Spathiphyllum: cultivation and care (video)
Determining the cause of yellow leaves
If an indoor ornamental plant has lost its external attractiveness, while the tips of the leaves have turned yellow or their turgor has sharply decreased, then you should carefully examine the yellowed aerial parts of the plant and correctly determine the cause, which will allow you to correctly treat Spathiphyllum. The tropics are the birthplace of a popular and widely demanded plant in indoor floriculture, therefore, for full development, it is necessary to provide the culture with the appropriate, most comfortable conditions.
The main reasons that can cause a change in leaf color houseplant, may be as follows:
- as a result of damage by root rot in case of non-compliance with the regime of irrigation measures and excessive waterlogging of the soil in flower pot leaves fall down and sag helplessly, the plant may even die;
- if the internal reserves of nutrients, minerals and vitamins are used up, then the plants become severely weakened, which is expressed in a sudden yellowing of the aerial part;
- a characteristic change in the coloring of the leaves of a room culture may be associated with a lack of nutrition, namely a lack of such essential elements as nitrogen, iron and magnesium;
- one of the common causes of yellowness of the leaves of a spathiphyllum is improper lighting: even short-term exposure to direct sunlight can cause large yellow spots and dark brown scorched areas on the aerial part;
- excessive dryness of the air in the room can also cause yellowing of the leaves, which is especially often observed during the heating winter period;
- in the warm season, the plant is able to evaporate a significant amount of moisture, so the soil substrate must be maintained in a sufficiently moist state;
- of the most common diseases that cause yellowing of spathiphyllum foliage, fusarium can be noted, the defeat of which involves the destruction of a houseplant.
Among other things, it is very important to carry out timely transplantation of the plant. If there is a massive yellowing of the leaves on the spathiphyllum without the appearance of extensive shrunken zones, as a result of decay, then this may indicate the need to transplant into a larger pot or divide the bush.
Growing problems
Although such indoor flower, like Spathiphyllum, belongs to the category of unpretentious and quite easily tolerates some errors in care, the decorativeness of the plant largely depends on compliance with the basic rules of growing technology. Even minor failures in agricultural technology can cause external changes: the leaves turn white or blacken or acquire another uncharacteristic color.
Withering inflorescences have brown spots of natural origin. They need to be trimmed, which will stimulate the faster emergence of new flowers. If the leaves on the plant are too pale, then it is recommended to pay attention to the lighting, humidity and feeding regimen. With waterlogging or lack of irrigation, the spathiphyllum may look wilted. The same problems can cause low temperature regime indoors, as well as damage to the room culture of aphids, spider mite or shield.
care requirements
Spathiphyllum is one of the very popular plants that are highly valued for the beauty of the leaves and flowers, and are also not too demanding ornamental crops to care for. However, the plant needs constant spraying, abundant watering and microclimate. It is these main factors that are important to consider if you want to grow spathiphyllum in indoor floriculture:
- lighting should be diffused, without exposure to direct sunlight;
- in spring and summer, it is preferable to maintain a temperature regime within 22-24 ° C;
- in autumn and winter periods temperature indicators should not be lower than 16 ° C;
- in spring and summer, as well as at the stage of active flowering of the spathiphyllum, irrigation measures should be plentiful;
- in autumn and winter, watering should be moderate, but the soil substrate must not be overdried or waterlogged;
- high levels of humidity are welcome, as well as systematic spraying of the aerial part of the plant;
- from early spring to the end of summer and in the flowering phase, top dressing is carried out in a complex, mineral fertilizers in low concentration.
How to make spathiphyllum bloom (video)
Thus, at the dormant stage of the plant, the temperature regime cannot be lower than 16 ° C under conditions of moderate watering, and in the spring, in order to maintain the health of the spathiphyllum, it is necessary to transplant the flower with a complete replacement of the soil. Proper care will prevent the appearance of yellow leaves in the spathiphyllum.
Spathiphyllum is a non-capricious plant, but in some cases it can cause trouble for its owner. If, when growing a spathiphyllum, optimal conditions are not created, then the leaves may turn yellow, blacken and lose their rich color. In addition to errors in care, the plant is affected by diseases and pests. But usually spathiphyllum diseases manifest themselves due to inappropriate care.
Why do the tips of the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn black?
The main reason for the blackening of the tips of the leaves is dry air. The tips of the leaves dry out quite a bit, only 2 mm. And the rest of the leaf remains green. This usually happens during the cold season when the heating is on.
What to do in such a situation, and how to save the plant? When the tips of the leaves dry, it is necessary to increase the level of humidity for this, flower growers recommend:
- Spray the flower twice a day, the water should be warm and settled;
- Use a humidifier;
- Place the container with the flower on a tray filled with wet expanded clay.
In addition to dry air, the tips of the leaves turn black due to excess moisture. It is necessary to observe the irrigation regime correctly. In summer, the plant should be watered abundantly, and in winter, the frequency of watering should be reduced to a minimum.
Leaves dry at the edges
The reason for everything is considered excessive moisture. It is necessary to adjust the frequency of watering. If brown or dark spots spread over the entire surface of the leaf plate, then you need to carefully examine the root system, if rot is found, you should use the necessary recommendations:
- It is required to remove the plant from the flowerpot and rinse the roots well under running water.
- The affected parts of the plant must be cut with a knife.
- Treat cut sites with activated charcoal.
- The flower must be dried for 3 hours.
- After the plant must be planted in a new soil mixture, it is recommended to add activated charcoal to the soil, as a preventive measure.
- It is not worth watering the plant immediately after planting, you should wait a few days.
- Three days later, the transplanted plant should be poured with warm water, to which "Kornevin" is added.
The leaves also dry at the edges and darken from hypothermia. This can be especially true in winter, when the flower pot is on a cold windowsill. What to do? In this case, you should rearrange the pot in a warm place or put foam under it. To return the plant to its normal state, you can use "Epin", thanks to this tool, the immunity of the plant increases.
The third reason due to which the leaves dry and turn black at the edges is an excessive amount of top dressing. From an excess of fertilizer, black or brown spots can be seen on the leaves. In such a situation, the roots of the plant must be washed with water and transplanted into fresh nutrient soil.
Why do spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow?
Usually spathiphyllum turns yellow due to direct sunlight. It is best to place the flower in a shady place to eliminate direct sunlight. But at the same time, the room should have bright and diffused light.
Another reason for yellow leaves is the lack of nutrition. With a lack of nutrients, uneven yellowing of the leaves occurs, which subsequently turn black and dry. To save the plant, it is necessary to provide the flower with the necessary useful components. Land enrichment should be carried out as follows:
- It is necessary to transplant the flower into fresh soil so that it is light and loose.
- Then spray with a special top dressing, which includes boron, calcium and iron.
- A month later, it is worth making a complex fertilizer.
- Also during this period, it is necessary to water the plant abundantly, and spray from a spray bottle twice a day.
The leaves also turn yellow and dry from the natural aging process. The old foliage dies off, and the new one appears.
Spathiphyllum leaves wither
Leaf wilting is possible due to insufficient moisture. If the spathiphyllum has an earthen lump that is too dry, then the plant begins to wither. In order for the leaves to regain turgor, the flower only needs to be watered. Sometimes the soil dries out very much, and regular watering will not help here. In this case, you need to do the following: you need to water the plant, and then put the pot in a container of water for about half an hour.
The next factor by which drooping leaves can be observed happens due to heterogeneous ground. With the accumulation of earth in a lump, water does not penetrate to the roots. To root system received the optimal amount of water, you must carefully pull the plant out of the pot. Then remove lumps of peat from the roots, and then transplant into a homogeneous light soil.
If the plant wilts, then this may be due to the appearance of insects. Pests can infect spathiphyllum if it is grown in a dry room. Even the flower withers or it has sluggish leaves due to lack of moisture, you need to water the spathiphyllum well.
Why do spathiphyllum roots rot?
Basically, the roots rot due to the bay. Leaves wither from strong waterlogging of the soil. Very often, stagnant water in a pot leads to rotting of the root system. If you find rotting roots, then you need to act immediately. In this case, the following steps should be performed:
- We take the plant out of the pot, then wash the roots, carefully removing the old soil.
- Then we trim the rotten roots with a sharp blade.
- We process the cut points with crushed activated carbon and leave the flower for a couple of hours to dry.
- Then we plant the spathiphyllum in a new well-drained soil.
- There must be drainage at the bottom of the flowerpot; three days after transplantation, we water the spathiphyllum with settled water.
Spathiphyllum does not grow
The flower may not grow because of the large pot. After transplanting into a large container, the plant must adapt. You just need to wait a while until the flower gets used to the new place. But if you do not want to wait, then you can transplant the plant into a tighter container so that the size is 2 cm larger than the root system.
Spathiphyllum also does not grow due to inappropriate lighting. The growth rate of a flower can slow down in very bright or low light. What should be done in such a situation? It is recommended to move the flower to a place where the lighting is good and there is no direct sunlight.
The absence of flowering in spathiphyllum
What to do if there is no flowering? Spathiphyllum can bloom several times a year if cared for properly. But sometimes the plant does not bloom for some reason.
The first reason is the very large reservoir. Flowering occurs when the root system completely wraps around the earthen ball in the flowerpot. Therefore, if a plant transplant was performed in an unsuitable pot, then flowering can be expected for several years. It is optimal to use a suitable flower pot so that its diameter is 3 cm larger than the previous one.
Also, the sptiphyllum does not bloom if it experiences an insufficient amount of top dressing. There will be no flowering if there is a shortage useful substances. When hungry, the leaves turn yellow and then dry. Sometimes it happens that the leaves of the plant are green, but there is no flowering. This indicates that the flower receives a lot of nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass, and prevents the spathiphyllum from blooming.
To achieve flowering, it is necessary to feed the plant with complex top dressing, which contains potassium and phosphorus. For good flowering, you can use growth stimulants such as "Bud" or "House Flower". In order for flowering to be plentiful, pruning of the peduncle is necessary.
Another lack of flowering can be with a lack of light. Spathiphyllum loves well-lit places, but only without direct sunlight. But strongly shaded places are not suitable for the plant. It is necessary to do so that the flower receives a sufficient amount of light, and at the same time the scorching rays of the sun do not fall on it.
Why do spathiphyllum flowers turn green?
Usually spathiphyllum flowers turn green due to lack of lighting, or it may depend on the variety. If the flowers are turning green instead of white, try setting the plant pot in a well-lit area.
Problems of growing spathiphyllum: a list of "diseases", their causes and ways to eliminate Spathiphyllum is a non-capricious plant, but sometimes it causes trouble to its owner. Errors in care immediately affect the condition of the spathiphyllum leaves. They can turn black, turn yellow, discolor, lose turgor. All these symptoms clearly indicate problems in agricultural technology that need to be eliminated in order to restore the decorativeness and health of the plant. Symptom #1. At the spathiphyllum, the tips of the leaves turn black Often flower growers ask why the tips of the leaves turn black and dry in the spathiphyllum. Let's try to figure it out. Reason #1. Dry air In this case, the tips dry out quite a bit - literally by 1-2 mm. At the same time, the rest of the leaf plate remains green or, in the border zone with blackening, acquires a yellowish tint. In this type, the tips of the leaves dry in the spathiphyllum when grown in normal living conditions. This phenomenon is especially pronounced in winter, when the heating is turned on. What to do? To minimize the appearance of the black tips of the spathiphyllum, you should increase the humidity of the air near the pot with the plant. To do this, it is recommended: spray spathiphyllum 2 times a day with warm settled water; place a spathiphyllum next to the aquarium; put a pot with spathiphyllum on a pallet with wet expanded clay; use a humidifier (the most effective remedy). Reason number 2. Bay In this case, the spathiphyllum leaves turn black and dry a little differently. The defect affects wider areas and affects part of the leaf plate. The blackening zone is limited from the normal part of the leaf plate by a narrow yellow border. What to do? The blackening of only the tips of the leaves indicates that the spathiphyllum is watered too often, but there is no decay of the roots yet. In this case, helping the flower will be in the adjusted watering mode. Some flower growers decide to water only when the leaves of the spathiphyllum droop and look wilted outwardly. Sometimes this happens when the soil in the pot is almost completely dry! However, for a spathiphyllum, such a seemingly cruel drying is in the order of things. It is worth watering it and in an hour all the leaves will restore turgor. At the same time, the irrigation regime with constant severe drying is not the recommended option. That is, sometimes it can be done, but not systematically. This is bad for the condition of the soil and small suction roots that can die. Ideally, you need to water the spathiphyllum after the soil has dried out by 1/3 - 1/4 of the height of the pot. Symptom #2. Spathiphyllum leaves dry along the edges, black drying spots appear in the central part of the leaf plate Reason # 1. Bay Dark black or brown spots on a spathiphyllum usually indicate a significant bay that accompanies the plant. long time. Most likely, the flower is watered too often and at the bottom of the pot, near the roots, there is a constant swamp. It is not surprising that the roots in such a situation begin to rot, which leads to the blackening of the leaves of the spathiphyllum. What to do? First, adjust the watering (read about the recommended watering mode in the previous paragraph). If the spots continue to spread to more leaves or increase in size, the roots should be inspected and, if necessary, any rot found should be treated. This can be done as follows: Remove the spathiphyllum from the pot. Rinse the roots in water (in a bucket of water), gently freeing them from the old earth. Inspect the roots for rot. Rotten roots - yellowish or brown, soft; healthy roots are white, dense. Cut off all rotten roots with a clean knife to healthy tissue. Slices - powder with crushed activated charcoal or cinnamon. Leave the plant to dry for 2-3 hours. Plant the spathiphyllum in a new, light earth with the addition of activated charcoal (to prevent rotting of the sections). You don't need to water right away! The earth from the parquet is initially damp, this is enough to maintain the vital activity of the "amputated" roots. After 2-3 days, when the new soil dries out, water the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm settled (ideally boiled) water with the addition of Kornevin. Reason number 2. Root cooling Spathiphyllum leaves may turn black from "wet" cooling. For example, if you watered the plant in the evening, and at night it got colder and the roots froze. What to do? Try not to make that mistake again. Remove the spathiphyllum from a cold window sill and do not water it in the evening. To quickly put the plant in order, spray it with Epin, a stress adaptogen that will help overcome adverse factors and increase the immunity of the spathiphyllum. Reason number 3. Overfeeding with fertilizers (burn) With a burn from fertilizers, spots on spathiphyllum leaves appear quickly. Literally overnight, after watering with an excess amount of fertilizer, extensive brown or black zones appear on the leaves. After that, the entire leaf turns yellow and dies. What to do? If you suspect overfeeding, you need to act quickly. Spathiphyllum roots should be washed in clean water and transplant it into new soil. Symptom #3. Spathiphyllum turns yellow Often the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn yellow, and massively. It's very spoiling decorative look flower. Let's try to understand each specific situation. Reason #1. Direct sunlight, sunburn Spathiphyllum respects the so-called penumbra. That is, a large amount of diffused light, without direct sunlight. If, however, a pot with a spathiphyllum is placed, for example, on a southern or southwestern windowsill, then soon it will be possible to see that its leaves have lost their saturated green color, burned out. Discolored leaves turn yellow and even turn white. If the sun's rays were not only bright, but also hot, sunburn is possible. In this case, yellowing comes in spots or stripes. Moreover, the burnt parts become thinner, similar to parchment. What to do? If your spathiphyllum has turned yellow from excessive light, it must be moved to a darker place, without direct sunlight. For spathiphyllum, window sills of the northern, northeastern, northwestern, eastern orientation are suitable. If all the windows in your apartment are sunny, it's okay. Place the spathiphyllum at some distance from the window, in the back of the room, to reduce the intensity of lighting. Reason number 2. Lack of trace elements, chlorosis When starving Spathiphyllum, the leaves turn yellow unevenly. For example, a “mosaic” color appears, that is, green spots remain on a yellow background, or vice versa. The veins become discolored or, conversely, the veins remain green, and the leaf plate turns yellow. Yellowing of the leaves against the background of green veins is a manifestation of iron chlorosis. All other uneven yellowing can be associated with a lack of various trace elements, in particular boron, calcium. Yellowing of the spathiphyllum against the background of starvation is easy to eliminate with the help of fertilizing and enriching the soil. You need to do the following: Transplant the spathiphyllum into a new, light, loose soil. The reaction of the soil is slightly acidic. Spray the plant with iron chelate - when diagnosing iron chlorosis or complex fertilizer containing trace elements (boron, calcium, iron) - with a general lack of nutrients. 2-3 weeks after transplantation - feed the spathiphyllum with complex fertilizer. All this time, water the plant with well-settled or boiled warm water, spray it with water 2 times a day. Reason number 3. Aging of the leaves If the lower old leaves of the spathiphyllum turn yellow, then this is a natural process that does not require any intervention. Old leaves die, new ones will come to replace them. Yellowing can only be considered a problem if the process involves young leaves. Symptom #4. Withering leaves of spathiphyllum If the leaves of spathiphyllum are grafted and hung like rags, you need to take immediate action. This symptom indicates that the roots of the plant do not receive moisture. Reason #1. Overdrying of an earthy coma This is the most common cause. Spathiphyllum wilts when the potted soil is dry and needs watering. What to do? In order for the leaves of the spathiphyllum to regain turgor, it is enough to water the plant. In some cases, if the soil is very dry or peat is used as the soil, simple watering from above may not have an effect. Then it is recommended to water the soil from above, as usual, and then immerse the pot with the plant in a pot (bucket, basin) with water for 15-20 minutes. Reason number 2. Heterogeneous soil It happens that after watering the leaves are restored for a while, and then fade again. Despite the fact that the soil still looks wet! This means that the roots of the plant, located inside the pot, are in a dense, non-hygroscopic lump of soil that cannot be moistened with water during normal watering. Such a nuisance happens if, after the purchase, the spathiphyllum was transplanted into a new flower soil while preserving the shop peat substrate on the roots. Such a substrate dries very quickly and turns into an impenetrable lump. At the same time, the new flower soil into which the transplant was made retains water well and remains moist after watering. But water does not flow to the roots, since a dry lump of peat is held on them. What to do? So that the leaves no longer wilt, the store soil will have to be removed. To do this, rinse the roots in water and carefully remove lumps of peat from them. After that, transplant the spathiphyllum into a uniform, light soil. Reason number 3. Root rot Root rot occurs due to flooding. In this case, the leaves wither in the same way as when dried. The only difference is that when drying, it is enough to shed the earth so that the roots absorb moisture and the leaves recover. When the roots rot, watering will no longer help, on the contrary, it will aggravate the situation: the leaves will wither with a vengeance. A sign of root rot: the soil in the pot is constantly wet, despite the fact that watering has been done for a long time. Rotting roots do not absorb moisture from the soil, respectively, the plant is sick, does not receive water and nutrients. Unfortunately, root rot is an insidious disease that is not always quickly diagnosed. A novice grower, seeing that the spathiphyllum has withered, will most likely begin to water it more and more. Until the flower is completely destroyed! What to do? With diagnosed root rot, transplant the spathiphyllum into new land with preliminary cutting of all rotting parts of the root. Transplantation can be done as follows: Remove the spathiphyllum from the pot. Rinse the roots in water (in a bucket of water), gently freeing them from the old earth. Cut off all rotten roots with a clean knife to healthy tissue. Slices - powder with crushed activated charcoal or cinnamon. Leave the plant to dry for 2-3 hours. Plant the spathiphyllum in a new, light earth with the addition of activated charcoal (to prevent rotting of the sections). Be sure to put it in the bottom of the pot. good layer drainage (2-3 cm at least) to prevent water stagnation in the lower part of the roots. There should be drainage holes in the bottom of the pot (if there are not enough of them, make a few more with a nail or a hot screwdriver). You don't need to water right away! The earth from the parquet is initially damp, this is enough to maintain the vital activity of the "amputated" roots. After 2-3 days, when the new soil dries out, water the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm settled (ideally boiled) water with the addition of Kornevin. Symptom #5. Spathiphyllum does not grow Spathiphyllum does not grow green mass: it does not release new leaves, does not give shoots. Reason #1. Large pot Remember that at first the spathiphyllum builds up the root system, and then begins to take care of the leaves. Therefore, if you transplanted a plant into a pot that is too large, you will have to wait until the root system grows and entangles a clod of earth. Only after that will the growth of green mass begin. What to do? If you do not want to wait a few months, you will have to transplant the spathiphyllum into a tighter pot - 1-2 cm larger in diameter than the root system. Reason number 2. Inappropriate lighting Spathiphyllum can slow down in growth with too intense or, conversely, poor lighting. What to do? Move the spathiphyllum to a well-lit area, out of direct sunlight. Symptom number 6. Spathiphyllum does not bloom. Under suitable conditions, spathiphyllum can bloom 2-3 times a year. But the expectation does not always become a reality. And then the question arises: "Why does not the spathiphyllum bloom?". There may be several reasons for this. Reason #1. Too large a pot of Spathiphyllum will begin flowering only after its roots are completely entwined with an earthen ball in a pot. Therefore, if you transplanted a plant into an oversized pot, you can wait several years for flowering. What to do? Choose a new pot for the spathiphyllum. Close, low pots are suitable for this representative of the aroid family. In diameter - 1-2 cm more than the root system. Reason number 2. Lack of fertilizing, starvation If the spathiphyllum has not been transplanted for a long time, the soil in the pot is depleted or initially did not contain the necessary nutrients, you can not wait for flowering. In addition to the lack of flowering, the hunger strike is also indicated by the general disease state of the plant, yellow or small leaves. There is another situation: the spathiphyllum looks healthy, produces a large number of large green leaves and does not bloom. This means that the plant "fattens", that is, it consumes a large amount of nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass at the expense of flowering. We conclude: in the soil in which the spathiphyllum grows, there is a lot of nitrogen, but there is a lack of elements responsible for flowering - potassium and phosphorus. What to do? If the pot in which the spathiphyllum grows is of normal size, and there has not been flowering for a long time, feed it with a complex fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium (for flowering ones). For the fastest effect, you can apply spraying with stimulants - "Bud", "House Flower", etc. Reason number 3. Lack of lighting Spathiphyllum - shade plant. The term "shade-tolerant" means that direct sunlight is contraindicated for the plant. But! And a deep shadow is also useless. For spathiphyllum, you need to choose a well-lit place, with a lot of diffused light. Spathiphyllum will not bloom in full shade. What to do? It is necessary to rearrange the spathiphyllum from deep shade to a more lit place. Symptom #7. Spathiphyllum flowers turn green Some time after the appearance of a new flower, do you notice that its snow-white initial color acquires a green tint? This is how all spathiphyllums behave. The flowering bedspreads of flowers are painted in greenish tones. Naturally, this feature does not require any adjustment.
It is believed that if there is such a plant in the house, then a woman will never be lonely, but will definitely meet the only one with whom she will be happy. The flower is not very picky, but sometimes it happens that the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn yellow. The reasons for this phenomenon may be different.
Botanical characteristics of the plant
Spathiphyllum is a perennial herbaceous plant that does not have a stem. Its leaves are dark green in color, have an oblong shape and are located on petioles. It blooms efficiently and for quite a long time. The flowers are white in color.
There are several varieties of this plant. Domestic gardeners grow such varieties of spathiphyllum:
If the plant does not bloom, then the reason for this may be poor lighting or irregular watering. Old plants also do not bloom well.
This home plant picky, but, nevertheless, like all others, it can hurt. But not always the reason that a spathiphyllum becomes a disease. There are several reasons for this phenomenon.
plant exhaustion
If the plant blooms for a long time, then its exhaustion is possible, since it needs a lot of strength and energy for this process. good food. Therefore, during flowering, the plant needs special care.
Signs of exhaustion. The leaves begin to turn yellow from below, then the process rises, and if nothing is done, then all the leaves will turn yellow and wither. Save it then it will not work, the plant will die.
Signs. The leaves begin to turn yellow from the tips and all over the plant at once. The process develops very quickly, which leads to their death. Then the rest of the surface is damaged and the flower dies.
Why do spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow, and what to do. The first thing to do in this case is to find out who was the culprit - very dry air or still the sun. But it is still better not to allow the plant to begin to turn yellow. It is necessary to think in advance where it is better to place the flower so that direct sunlight does not fall on it, especially in summer. Spathiphyllum can be fenced off from the sun with a thin light curtain or plain office paper can be used for this purpose.
But rearranging the flowerpot deep into the room is not worth it. If the flower lacks lighting, then its leaves will become pale and stretch out strongly.
The leaves of the spathiphyllum turned yellow, what to do if dry air became the cause of this. There are several ways to get rid of such a nuisance:
There are many different ways not to allow favorite plant died from the scorching sun or dry air. You can choose any one that suits you best.
The tips of the leaves that have dried up should be cut off, while capturing a little healthy tissue, the strongly yellowed lobes should be completely removed, and those that have changed pigmentation should not be touched, they will recover over time.
Low temperature and improper watering
Spathiphyllum loves moist soil. Moist but not damp! For some flower growers, it almost floats in the water. Under no circumstances should this be allowed. It is good if there are drainage holes in the pot, but if they are overgrown with roots and do not do their job, then everything can end badly.
If there are already a large number of them, then you should not bother, it is better to immediately use some kind of systemic insecticide to kill insects. But given that it is still a poison, strict adherence to the dosage indicated on the package of the drug is necessary. If for the first time the pests are not completely destroyed, you can process the flowerpot again after 5-7 days. At the same time, it is recommended to process not only the leaves, but also the soil in the pot.
How to prevent disease
Fighting diseases is more difficult. Especially when bacteria or fungal spores get to the point of growth. In this case, it is already impossible to save the spathiphyllum. Therefore, treatment should be started at an early stage.
To prevent the disease from spreading further, it is necessary to cut off all diseased areas: leaves, stems, roots. This should be done very carefully, since even the smallest focus of the disease, which will be missed, will then spread to healthy areas. All cut places should be treated with a light solution of potassium permanganate, and then sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
But sometimes this is not enough. Often, infection occurs at the cellular level and bacteria remain in healthy places. The only way out in this case will be treatment with chemicals.
Treatment has several stages:
Before transplanting a flower, in order to prevent re-infection, it is recommended to treat the soil with phytosporin.
So that the leaves on the spathiphyllum do not begin to lighten or turn yellow, you need to properly care for it: water it properly, monitor the lighting and temperature in the room, and fight pests and diseases. And then the plant will please its owner with green leaves and beautiful flowers.
