Tulips love sun or shade. Planting tulips in autumn: How and when should it be done? Choosing the best landing time

Tulip is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant of the Liliaceae family, which has earned an enviable popularity in the world of breeding and horticulture in its history and occupies a prominent place in the list of the most sought-after ornamental plants.

Story

The homeland of the tulip is Turkey. In the middle of the 16th century, despite all the export restrictions, the flower was transported to the capital of Austria, and then to Holland. English, French, German merchants are fond of growing tulips. In those distant times, they are grown in the gardens of only noble and wealthy people. In Russia, these flowers appear during the time of Peter I.

Symbolism

There are many beautiful legends associated with tulips and symbolic meanings. Gentle and touching, they symbolize love, joy, happiness. The time of flowering tulips is associated with the arrival of spring, holidays and good mood.

Description

The plant admires the variety of varieties. The color of the flowers is striking in its color. They can be of the same color (white, yellow, red, purple, etc.), or they can combine several different shades.

The shape of the flower is bell-shaped, goblet-shaped, cup-shaped, in the form of a lily.

Goblet Cupped Oval Parrot Lilyflowered
Double Fringed Flower Forms

According to the terms, the varieties are divided into two types:

Early flowering;
Late flowering.

The beginning of the point of growth is a bulb, from which a straight stem appears with several leaves and one flower. The fruit is a trihedral box with triangular, flat, brown seeds.

Tulips grow well in full sun. An important condition is protection from the wind. In such places, tulips look healthier, brighter, bloom earlier.

Tulips are grown in group plantings of one or more varieties. Tulips prefer light, loose, rich, moderately moist soils. An important condition for growing are "clean beds", freed from weeds.

Landing

The bulbs are planted in the fall, when the period of natural biological dormancy ends in tulips. Only healthy bulbs are used for planting. Choose a time before the soil freezes, otherwise the bulbs may not have time to take root.

The landing pattern can be very different. Planting density is maintained up to 15-20 cm, depth up to 10-15 cm. Prepared holes or grooves are carefully watered and the bulbs are laid out in them with the bottom down. They fall asleep with earth, a layer of 5-10 cm.

Tulips tolerate winter well. During winters with little snow and low temperatures, plantings are covered with insulating organic material - peat, humus, leaves.

Care

Growing tulips is easy. This undemanding plants requiring little care. Start care in the spring. After the snow cover has melted, the plantings are carefully loosened, with dry soil, regular, moderate watering is carried out. Tulips love moisture.

During the growth period of the tulip, three top dressings are carried out using solutions of organic and mineral fertilizers:

The first is carried out after the emergence of shoots;
The second - during budding;
The third - after flowering.

Regularly carry out weeding and loosening. Blooming tulips are not cut off, but broken off, leaving as many leaves as possible. After flowering, watering is reduced, wilted flowers are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on seed ripening. After yellowing and wilting of the leaves, the bulbs are dug up. So that the bulbs do not shrink, the digging procedure is repeated every season.
Before storage, the bulbs are disinfected in a four percent solution of karbofos to prevent diseases and protect against pests. Then dry in the shade, in the open air, for a week.

Before storage, the bulbs are sorted, selecting large and medium sizes. Children are separated at the same time. Storage areas should have low ambient light and good ventilation.

The storage temperature should be around 17-20 degrees C. In such conditions, the bulbs are stored until planting in open ground.

reproduction

You can propagate tulips:

seeds;
With the help of bulbs.

Seed propagation is used more often by breeders. Reproduction with bulbs is faster and more efficient. For these purposes, bulbs with a diameter of at least 12 cm are selected. It is believed that these are the ones that inherit the main varietal characteristics. Smaller bulbs need to be grown at home before planting in open ground.

Diseases and pests

Tulips can be affected by viral diseases. One of these is variegation, which is manifested by the presence of spots, strokes, stripes on leaves and flower petals. It is very difficult to deal with such diseases. It is important to observe disinfection measures, and if the plant is damaged, it is better to destroy it.

Fungal diseases may occur. These include various rots:

Root;
Gray;
White;
soft;
wet;
Tobacco necrosis virus, known as "August disease".

Plants affected by these diseases are also best removed, and the planting site and neighboring plants are disinfected with antifungal drugs. Ash treatment can be applied.

To protect against pests (bears, scoops, slugs), traps are placed and hung. Against rodents, the bulbs are sprayed with iron minium and mousetraps are placed.

Tulip is a perennial bulbous plant from the lily family, which came to us from Central Asia. To date, there are 110 types of tulips of various colors: red, yellow, white, purple, purple and even black tulips, and combinations of two, three or more colors are also common. The most fashionable tulip is green-colored, the original contrast of which is created by nature with the help of a green middle and edges of colored petals with green veins.

Tulips were brought to Russia in the 17th century from Holland. The cost of the bulbs was fabulous, so only wealthy people could afford to grow these flowers. There is a legend that tulip flowers, especially yellow ones, bring happiness and good mood, and it is customary to give a girl unopened buds or those that have just begun to open.

If you love tulips, always look forward to the arrival of spring and crave to see all year round these wonderful flowers on your windowsill, then our article is for you. Today we will talk about growing tulips indoors.

Although it is believed that this flower is quite unpretentious in cultivation, there are several ways to plant in apartment breeding, as well as certain care requirements during the growing season. By following them, the result will certainly please you.

Fundamental rules

1.Golden rule: buy bulbs from reliable suppliers, selected and healthy planting material will make it easier and faster for you to get flowering tulips. Always select the largest available.

2. The bulb must be cleaned of the hard shell. This will allow you to detect possible damage at the initial stage, and it will be easier for a “bare” and healthy bulb to grow.

3. All planting material must be kept for about 30 minutes in a warm broth of celandine. Instead of celandine, you can make a weak solution of potassium permanganate - 3-4 crystals per liter of warm water will be enough.

4. If planting is planned in the ground substrate, do not forget about the mandatory sterilization procedure to get rid of pests and larvae in the soil.

5. Choose the undersized varieties best suited for forcing at home: Hibernia Kiss Nellys, Apricot beauty, Apeldorn Elite, Christmas Marvel or Gander.

Growing tulips in a vase

What will be required:

Large bulbs;

Transparent tall vases;

Filler: glass beads, sea stones, sterilized gravel, plastic beads or gel balls replacing the substrate.

Growing technology:

Purchased and sorted bulbs wrap in dark paper and put on a shelf in the refrigerator door for 12-15 weeks;

Prepare impromptu pots: put pebbles, beads and balls in a vase, fill one quarter with water;

Plant the aged bulbs with the sprouts up and fix them with "soil" - the bulbs should not touch the water;

Place the vases in a cool place without direct sunlight for 4-5 weeks until green shoots appear;

Expose your tulips on the windowsill from the sunny side;

Just a few weeks of waiting and your apartment will turn into a flower garden.

The duration of flowering will be about two weeks, so take care of preparing the bulbs for the next planting in advance. Those. after the opening of the first flower, you can prepare the following vases so that the flowers on your windowsill bloom without interruption.

Growing tulips in flower pots

What will be required:

Large bulbs that have been cold-treated for at least 12 weeks;

Planting containers not smaller than 15 cm;

Drainage to the bottom;

Prepared soil.

Growing technology:

Fill the pots with earth to one third of the height;

Lay the bulbs sprouts up at a distance of 1 cm from each other;

Cover with earth to the top of the pot, water and add earth if necessary;

Put the pots in the cellar for several weeks, check the moisture content of the earth;

When the height of the seedlings is 5 cm, you can transfer the pots to the room, covering them with a paper cap to protect them from sunlight;

Caps can be removed after a few days winter time you will need additional lighting for flowers;

Enjoy flowering at any time of the year.

You can extend the flowering period if you put the pots in a cool room at night. Do not forget about the mandatory watering. It is not recommended to use re-bulbs of home-grown tulips for this purpose, so feel free to send them to the dacha and next year they will delight you with their flowering in natural conditions. Try planting the bulbs in an old stump in the area - it will original idea for a flowerpot.

Good luck with your experiments and spring mood all year round!

Caring for tulips for lush flowering Tulips, along with crocuses, hyacinths, hazel grouses, delight us first. Red, yellow, pink, variegated buds open in early spring on the household plots, cottages and gardens. But not all flower growers enjoy a lush and bright carpet. Sometimes there is simply no bloom. In the article we will consider in detail why tulips do not bloom. Plants are unpretentious, do not require special attention to themselves. But some rules still need to be followed. It is because of the violation of the cultivation technique in the spring that there is no flowering.

Causes Sometimes you can observe the following picture: blooming tulips are interspersed with empty clearings. Not all plants bloomed. Some have produced flower stalks, but the flowers are small. Common causes of non-flowering: 1. Unsuccessfully selected planting material. In the same year, only a large bulb blooms. Small - to the next. Damage cannot be ruled out. The gardener did not notice them under the scales and buried the initially diseased tulip in the ground. 2. The plant lacks sunlight. Tulips love the sun. Hidden in the dense shade of trees, they do not want to bloom. 3. Spring flowers are planted in a place blown by cold and strong winds. This problem is especially relevant in Russia. The plant likes quiet areas protected from gusts. 4. Late or early landed in the ground. Weather anomalies disrupt flower-growing terms. In the conditions of a long warm autumn, the bulb produces a sprout, which freezes in winter. 5. The excavation deadlines were not met. What to do? Faded plants must be removed from the ground in a timely manner. Almost the entire summer season, the bulbs rest. If you tighten it with digging, then the tulip will begin a new development cycle. New roots will appear. It is too early to carry out this procedure - the bulb will not "gain" strength. 6. Shallow or deep landing. In autumn, the bulb produces a sprout that rises almost to the very surface of the earth. This is how the plant hibernates. An insufficiently deepened tulip appears too early - it freezes. Strongly deepen - the path to the sun will be long, there will be no strength left for flowering. 7. Bulbs are already damaged in the ground. In clay waterlogged soils, tulip flowers rot. Bulbs love mice - they often feast on the root nests of plants and bushes (the same peonies and crocuses suffer). 8. Incorrect cutting. When cutting flowers into a bouquet, leave at least two leaves. Otherwise on next year there will be no flowering. The garden is very beautiful when the tulips bloom. For the sake of this beauty, you need to try.

Planting and care Buying bulbs Today, breeders offer many different options - you can choose any variety you like. Planting material is classified by parsing. In order for the tulip flower to show all its beauty in the year of planting, we buy the first analysis. These are bulbs 10-14 cm in diameter. Why you should not buy a second, third analysis: it is better to immediately evaluate flowering; flowers appear in the second or third year. It is undesirable to buy onions "from the hands", especially unfamiliar ones. Unscrupulous sellers offer "old" tulips - we get a small bloom or even deprive ourselves of beauty. Landing Period: the last decade of September - the beginning of October. Focus on the climate of your region. In the middle lane - better in the second half of September. In the southern regions, in the Crimea - in the first half of October. Site selection: sunny location, protected from strong winds. The soil is loose and fertile. Soil preparation: 2 weeks before planting, dig to a depth of 30 centimeters. Apply fertilizer. Leave the soil to settle down a little. Depth: for 3 bulbs. Put three onions in a row on the spatula bayonet - you will know the depth. Preparation of planting material: inspect the bulbs for lesions. If it is hard to see, you can remove the brown scales. Soak for half an hour in a disinfectant solution (Maxim, Fitosporin, potassium permanganate). Landing: strictly bottom down slightly pressed to the ground. You do not need to screw it in hard, otherwise you can damage the rudiments of the roots. We fall asleep with earth and mark the place so that in the spring we don’t forget and don’t dig this area again. Some sources advise placing tulips at a distance of 20-30 cm. But if we want to get a lush carpet (as in Holland), we plant closer. Nothing wrong. We focus specifically on our planting plan: what should be the flower bed. An interesting way to plant: put the bulbs at a certain distance from each other on the bottom of the slatted box. Lower to desired depth. It will be easier to dig later. This method does not protect against mice, as some gardeners believe. Rodents are repelled by the smell of hazel grouse - they can be planted along with tulips. Care Growing tulips is easy. They need watering and weeding. During the growing season, it is recommended to feed with complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Water as needed. When cutting flowers into bouquets, be sure to leave two leaves. The products of photosynthesis nourish the bulb, give strength for division. After each cut, the scissors are disinfected. There is a risk of infecting plants with variegation (do not confuse with the varietal feature of the flower). Or do not cut the stems, but break off. When the tulip blooms, unscrew the head. The plant will not waste energy on the formation of seeds. Rest period It is recommended to dig up tulips annually in order to: preserve the variety; notice infection or damage in time; ensure high temperature at the time of rest. If you leave the bulbs in the ground, they will "go" deeper. It is more and more difficult for such a plant to produce a peduncle. How long do tulips leave in the soil bloom? .. A year, two ... And that's it. How to dig and store: 1) We extract the plants when the leaves are just starting to turn yellow, and the stem is still dense. If you are late, then the upper part will fall off and the bulb will be difficult to find. Far from always the bulb is located directly under the stalk - often the tulip "twirls". 2) It is better to use a pitchfork. A shovel can severely damage the planting material. Pitchforks cannot deal significant damage. 3) We shake off the ground from the dug out onions and lay them out in the shade to dry. For 15-20 days. 4) Remove all unnecessary (stems, leaves). Sorted by breakdowns. We shift into nets, boxes and store in a dry, warm place (at a temperature of 22-25 degrees). Houses in the attic, attic, in the closet, etc. Reproduction Tulips reproduce by bulbs. During the season, babies appear around the main bulb. There may be 2-3 of them. With their help, gardeners get young plants. Do not expect fast flowering from the "young growth". This will happen in a year or two. Transfer blooming tulips to a new place is undesirable: there is a risk of damaging the roots and disrupting flowering.

First you need to decide on the "quality of the shadow", because it can be very different.

Stable, for example, along the northern wall of the house, where the direct sun never looks.
Partial shade, for example, near an east-facing wall, where there is sun in the morning, and a steady shade in the late afternoon.
Scattered, for example, under the crowns of trees or shrubs.

It should be noted right away that there are not so many profusely flowering shade crops that give bright flowers all summer, or at least they cannot be found in the lists of familiar summers. Most really shade-tolerant plants have graceful, delicate and quickly fading flowers. And most of them are perennials that rarely produce flowers all summer - it makes sense to think about several crops that will succeed each other.

Therefore, we will consider all shade crops that will provide a bright decorative effect, not necessarily due to flowers, but, for example, beautiful leaves, throughout the warm season, and also consider the flowering time of all possible crops for different types shadows.

The most spectacular and long-blooming crops that can tolerate partial shade

The following are flowers that bloom really brightly, for partial shade, partial or diffuse shade:

- many spectacular hybrid varieties require good lighting for abundant flowering, however, in nature, this plant grows on the edges of forests, that is, in partial shading, so it is quite possible to create a beautifully flowering bed of daylilies in the shade if you choose the right varieties - especially beautiful in partial shading (in the morning - the sun, in the afternoon - a light shadow) varieties of dark shades look (red-black, purple-black, purple), they fade in the sun and quickly wither. There are different groups in terms of flowering, the duration of flowering is about a month, but you can combine different varieties and get a long-blooming flower bed.
- for abundant flowering, good lighting is desirable for him in the morning and shadow since noon. blooms from the beginning of June to the end of July, after proper trimming re-blooms towards the end of August.
— blooms all summer, feels great in partial shade, flowers like foxglove, only brighter and larger, pretty rare plant, albeit undeservedly.
Pansies- This charming summer plant grows both in the sun and in partial shade. In the sun the flowers are larger and brighter, but in partial shade the flowering will be longer. The timing of flowering can be varied at your discretion (by sowing seeds in a different period).
Balsam- the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight, it needs only diffused light. blooms July to frost.
ever blooming begonia- requires bright but diffused light, can burn out in direct sun, blooms all the time, grown in seedlings in open ground as an annual.
Fragrant tobacco-blooms from June until frost. Likes well-lit places, but light partial shade is acceptable.
astilba- blooms in June-July, about a month, loves a sparse soft shadow. Panicle flowers are very spectacular, there are many varieties. The appearance of the plant is elegant, feminine, bright.
Astrantia- the flowering period depends on the variety, but this is one of the longest-playing plants, some varieties bloom from June to the end of September, feels good in the sun, in partial shade, and even in full shade (only in heavily shaded places, flowering will not be so bright), grows well under trees.
mimulus- in direct sun it can burn, the best place is well lit, but with partial shading. blooms original flowers resembling orchids, in two waves - in spring and autumn.

Astilbe and hosta ‘Sun Power’

Medicinal, spicy, aromatic herbs feel good in partial shade:

peppermint,
radiola pink,
tarragon,
borago,
perennial bows,
Melissa officinalis.

Penumbra or scattered shade is well tolerated specific peonies: Maryin root, Caucasian, Wittmann - bloom from the beginning of May to the end of June, since August, the bushes adorn quite spectacular fruits. Many herbs and cereals also grow well in partial shade (, cortaderia, gray fescue).

Of the bulbs, they tolerate a lack of lighting well:

Daffodils.
Kandyk.
Merender.
Grouse.
Whiteflower.
Scylla (scilla).
Korolkovia.
Iridodictums.
Pushkin.
Muscari.
Crocuses.
Hyacinthoides.

Tulips, primroses, pansies.

Plants that love light but can thrive in partial shade

That is, these plants can give abundant flowering in a flower bed, for example, on the western or eastern side of the house, where the light only gets part of the day. If they are planted on such a site, then they should be treated as capricious, and provide very good other conditions ( correct soil, watering, fertilizing). All these plants bloom brightly and for a long time:

Snapdragon.
Ageratum.
Levkoy.
Balsam.
Lobelia.
Poppy self-seed.
Petunia.
Pansies.
Sweet pea.
Kobe.
Carnation grenadine.
Daisies.
Heliotrope.
The bell is medium and large-flowered.

The bell is medium.

Flowering plants for deep shade

These are plants for the shade, where the direct sun never hits. They will feel good in the shade of buildings, even on the north side, under the dense canopy of trees, near the fence:

Aquilegia (catchment) – blooms in June-July. Flowering time can be extended by picking off wilted flowers, preventing them from setting seed pods.
. Almost all species grow well in partial shade, climbing aconite feels great in the shade. Flowering time varies 20 to 60 days depending on the type. Extremely poisonous!
Brunner- blooms spring, at good care May re-bloom in autumn.
Cyanosis.
Fragrant violet.
Bathing suit.
Primrose common.
Chistous.
Forget-me-nots.
Digitalis.
Anemone.
Black cohosh.
May lily of the valley.
Violet fragrant.
Tiarka hearty.
Kupena.
Elecampane is excellent.
Spring umbilical.
Lungwort.
Fragrant woodruff.
Turkish carnation.
Cuff.
Cornflower mountain.
Dicentra.
Doronicum orientalis.
Gentian.
Garden geranium.
Avens.
Hellebore.
Siberian irises.

Ferns (shield, ostrich) look great in the shade, although they do not bloom.

Variegated lily of the valley and astilbe.

shade under the trees

Some tree species create a light openwork shade, but at the same time they dry the soil a lot, and this factor must be taken into account, because most shade-tolerant crops prefer moisture. Grows well in shade and dryness.

bought broadleaf,
periwinkle,
Goryanka,
forest anemone.
spring primrose,
badan,
comfrey,
garden geranium red-brown or Balkan.
cereals.

Under a pine tree where sandy or sandy loam soil:

lilies of the valley,
periwinkle,
survivors
violets.

Trees and shrubs for shady areas

Shade-tolerant trees and shrubs may be required for compositions:

korean fir,
elderberry black,

Creepers for shade

The most popular for shady areas:

round-leaved tree pliers - universal, grows both in good light, and in the shade, and in partial shade. However, in dense shade it does not bear fruit;
actinidia kolomikta - beautiful decorative leaves of motley changeable color;
ivy - grows well even with strong shading.

It is worth noting that most vines, being plants dependent on support, which in nature is usually a tall, shade-producing tree, are used to a lack of lighting.

This applies even to such a spectacular culture as. Many large-flowered hybrids like coolness, not higher than 25 degrees, and light or shade is secondary for them and shade may even be preferable - if it gives coolness.

Wintergreen (with red berries), skimmia, hellebores and ivy.

decorative leafy

Spectacular macro-sized for shade with expressive foliage:

- blooms for a month from mid-July to mid-August. Has exotic leaves, decorative all season and especially beautiful in autumn.
- blooms for about a month, in August. Powerful, juicy, sculptural plant.
- flowering depends on the variety, some varieties are characterized by incredibly persistent flowering - up to 2 months. Textured appearance, fleshy round leaves. Ideal conditions for culture - penumbra.
- blooms for about a month in the middle of summer with spectacular panicles. Openwork foliage. The plant is graceful, refined, elegant, lush.
– landing recommendations vary greatly. In any case, varieties with dark leaf color feel great with strong shading, lighter ones need light partial shade. The appearance of the plant is exotic, bright, vibrating.
- classic shaded areas. Decorative throughout the growing season. It goes well with any other plants, has a lot of shapes and colors that are good both in single plantings and in compositions.
Chistets Byzantine- loves good lighting, but also grows well in partial shade. Attracts attention with pubescent, woolly leaves of a bluish-gray hue.

Ground covers:

Pachysandra- a frost-resistant shrub up to 25-35 cm high. Flowering is inexpressive, but is valued for its dense decorative foliage that does not change its appearance throughout the year.
Gaulteria- an evergreen ground cover shrub 10-15 cm high, blooms with elegant white flowers in June-August, then the plant is decorated with spectacular bright edible fruits that last until late spring. Feels great under trees.
White-rimmed gout- beautiful white-green foliage, the plant is very unpretentious.
Mother of thousands- the leaves are similar to ivy leaves, beautiful "lipped" flowers appear on the plant from June until frost.
European hoof- has juicy fleshy large and thick leaves in the form of a hoof, creates a dense coating.
Yasnotka- very beautiful silvery leaves, bright spongy flowers. He likes good lighting, but sparse, the best places are those where the western or eastern sun falls.

Hosta, Geranium, Lavender.

Container garden in the shade

Shade-tolerant plants that do not overwinter in the open field in the middle lane, but you can plant them in pots and create a container bed. If desired, they can be dug in so that the pot is not visible. If there is an opportunity to mess around with digging for the winter, you can plant them in open ground for the summer, although for middle lane it is a rarity. All of the plants listed below are decorative all summer and do not tolerate direct sunlight. The best place for them - penumbra, or east windows:

Skimmia- semi-shrub, leathery glossy foliage, bright inflorescences all year round.
Coleus- does not like direct scorching rays of the sun. Highly decorative all summer.
begonias- both tuberous and ever-flowering plants need bright diffused light, but not the scorching sun.
Caladiums- in the West they are actively grown in open ground, in the middle zone only in pot culture. The leaves are extremely beautiful.
Fuchsia- needs no introduction. Charming in standard form. Blooms from spring to late autumn, feels good in partial shade.
Torenia- blooms all summer. Requires good lighting, but does not like direct midday sun.

Composition example

To create a flower bed in the shade that blooms all summer, you can competently “mix” plants with different, albeit short, flowering periods.

For example, a composition for a very wet penumbra:

Kaluzhnitsa - low bushes, 30-40 cm, blooms in early spring, from late April to May, for 2-3 weeks. There are terry varieties.
Lungwort.
Forget-me-not.
Astilbe.
Hosts.
garden geranium. Best Views for shade: Himalayan, swamp, meadow.

In the photo Terry marigold - Caltha palustris ‘Flore Pleno’

Unpretentious shade-loving perennials

In the video below, a selection of the most energy-efficient shade-loving flowers: these are perennials - which means you don’t need to plant them every year, they are generally unpretentious - which means they won’t require “dancing with tambourines”.