Shelter and protection of conifers for the winter. How to cover conifers for the winter Winter shelter for conifers

In order for conifers to become a worthy decoration of the garden, it is necessary to provide them with proper care throughout the year, and winter period- one of the most difficult in the life of any plant. Let's figure out what problems conifers face at this time and how to help them painlessly survive possible difficulties.

The territory of our country is huge, it covers several zones of frost resistance, but most of it is located in the 2nd - 4th zones, that is, the extremely low winter temperatures are - 45 ... - 29 ° C, respectively. Therefore, the first thing plants experience in winter is damage from low temperatures. This is especially true for conifers, which can also be characterized by varying degrees of frost resistance.

The key to successful wintering is the choice of a plant with a frost resistance zone corresponding to the planting region or even more frost-resistant. However, we often want to decorate our garden with people from warmer zones.

It should also be taken into account that a plant can be frost-resistant, but not winter-hardy: a lot depends on the specific conditions - on the nursery, where the planting material comes from, the place of planting, the age of the plant.

For example, yellow pine seedlings (Pinus ponderosa) from local nurseries grow and develop successfully, which cannot be said about those brought from abroad. Whole-leaved fir (Abies holophylla) at a young age is characterized by an average winter hardiness, but over the years it increases significantly. Western thuja (Thuja occidentalis) in the conditions of central Russia successfully winters without shelter. Varieties of Japanese larch (Larix kaempferi) BIue Rabbit, Diana and common spruce (Picea abies) Acrocona, Will's Zwerg can be damaged by late spring frosts - they are recommended to be placed in warm corners of southern and southwestern exposure.

young green

It is recommended to cover all young plantings of conifers for the first couple of winters. Cover as follows: in late autumn (November), sprinkle the root system with peat, dry leaves, sawdust, or cover with spruce branches 6–8 cm thick. Crowns of spherical dwarfs, as a rule, are under snow, which means they are well protected. Plants with a low spreading crown can be bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. Wrap taller young conifers with kraft paper.

The next problem of the winter period is mechanical damage to plants. These can be frost cracks on the trunks, and the breakage of branches that occurred under the weight of snow, and the consequences of freezing rain. Prevent the appearance of frost holes on the trunks of large coniferous plants can different ways- wrapping the trunk with burlap or a special mat (the latter option is optimal, since pests can find shelter in burlap and air circulates worse under it), after whitewashing the trunks, due to which the sun's rays will be reflected from the surface of the trunk. If frost cracks nevertheless appeared, then it is necessary to disinfect the wound with a solution of copper sulfate and cover it with garden pitch or RanNet.

To avoid breakage of branches, it is recommended to periodically shake off the snow from the plant by lightly tapping frequently. If in winter you do not visit your suburban area, then in late autumn you should lightly tie the branches of spherical and columnar conifers with twine. Narrow-column cultivars (for example, thuja varieties of the western Degroot’s Spire, Malonyana) should preferably be tied to strong supports in the fall, otherwise after winter they may look literally like “arches”, leaning to the ground. Plantings of the current year must be secured with stretch marks, which will not allow the plant to be twisted out of the soil with roots.

In no case should you try to warm the needles covered with an ice crust (the consequences of freezing rain) - the ice will melt on its own, and artificial heat can lead to an early awakening of the kidneys. What should be done is to place supports under the branches, as the shoots encased in ice are quite heavy and can break off.

The nature of winter is changeable - thaws come after frosts. Here our coniferous plants lie in wait new danger- podprevanie. Above all, mountain species of junipers (lying juniper (Juniperus procumbens) Nana), as well as hard-covered or tightly bound plants, are susceptible to this. Therefore, it is highly undesirable to cover them with a dense non-woven material, especially in several layers. It is important to leave gaps, small holes for free air circulation.

Regarding resistance to late winter problems and early spring(sunburn, dehydration) conifers can be divided into those that burn (that is, become brown to one degree or another), and those that do not burn (retain the color of the needles with which they left in the winter).

The former include Canadian spruce (Picea glauca), western thuja, common juniper (Juniperus communis) and horizontal m. The latter include Norway spruce, e. Serbian (Picea omorika), Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), p. Banks (P. banksiana), p. dwarf (P. pumila), Daurian juniper (Juniperus davurica), M. Cossack (Ju. sabina), white fir (Abies alba), single color (A. concolor).

It should be noted that varieties are sometimes more resistant to sunburn than the species. For example, yew (Taxus baccata) burns, and its variegated cultivars Dovastonii Aurea and Elegantissima are quite resistant. There is also evidence that junipers, which change the color of their needles in the pre-winter period (m. Cossack Femina, m. horizontal Andorra Compact), and varieties of western arborvitae (Yellow Ribbon, Sunkist) burn less or almost do not burn. Burning is not characteristic of larch, which annually sheds its needles. Yet the division is highly arbitrary. Here, as in the issue of winter hardiness, the specific conditions of the site, the age of the plants, the weather conditions of the current winter, as well as some agricultural practices are of great importance.

Time for shelter?

There are different points of view on the issue of sheltering conifers from spring burns. On the one hand, in winter, the role of conifers in the garden becomes leading, which means that they should appear in all their glory, with their luxurious needles of dark green, bluish, bluish, golden, bronze colors, and not in unsightly burlap zipunas. On the other hand, coniferous plants should be pleasing to the eye in the summer, and not stand as a browned “broom”. Trees and shrubs shaded by shields look more aesthetically pleasing than those wrapped in covering material. In my opinion, this question should be based on whether you spend time in the garden in winter or not. If not, then you can hide, because no one will see the plants anyway. Moreover, shelter from burns is best done at a specific time. This procedure is especially relevant from the second half of winter to mid-April.

If you like to enjoy winter in nature, then it is probably better to refuse shelter. In this case, species resistant to sunburn and low temperatures should be acquired, planted in the most suitable place, taking into account their predilection for light, moisture, and soil type.

A number of agrotechnical measures will also be required. Timely planting (before September), organization of drainage on heavy soils and creation of optimal soil texture on sandy soils (by adding clay, peat), timely fertilization, water-charging watering at the end of October (5-8 buckets per plant) and root cover systems with a layer of peat, dry leaf or sawdust - these requirements should always be met. Only then will the plants respond to you with good growth and development.

It is best to use a screen for shelter, installed on the south side of the plants (where the sunlight is most intense). If you need to cover the entire plant, use a special shading net (with 50% or 75% shading) or at least burlap - these materials do not impede the movement of air and do not accumulate solar heat.

For spherical and pyramidal shapes, it can be recommended to build a frame, and then lay a mesh or burlap on top of it - this will help to avoid breaking branches with snow. Non-woven covering materials - spunbond, lutrasil and others - although they are white, do not heat up from sunlight and partially reflect them, they are still able to accumulate heat and do it very well (worse than plastic film, but much better than cut and burlap). There is a slight "greenhouse" effect - plants under spunbond hoods can wake up earlier than without it, and since the roots are still not able to extract moisture from the soil, the problem of sunburn and dehydration will worsen.

Tags: Garden care, Conifers 459

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The winter is coming. We warm conifers in our area

Conifer lovers living in middle lane In Russia, they dream of evergreen decoration of the adjacent plot. Despite the frost resistance of conifers, young seedlings need protection for the winter. How we cover the conifers for the winter, and other ways to protect against ice and snow, we will consider in this article.

Why cover winter-hardy crops?

Almost all coniferous plantations from trees to low-growing shrubs are characterized by unpretentiousness and resistance to frost. Both thuja and spruce attract the attention of gardeners not only with their beautiful appearance, but also resistant to diseases, pests, and also exude a wonderful coniferous aroma. In addition, they are excellent antiseptics.

Out of love for decorative look plants, it is planted along the alleys, near administrative buildings as well as in parks and gardens. But, despite such positive characteristics, coniferous plants need shelter for the winter. Namely, young seedlings that are not yet 3-4 years old are considered weak and need protection. Here are two aspects that adversely affect evergreen crops:

strong frosty wind;
spring sun rays reflecting off the snow.

Why wind and sunlight? The fact is that the winter wind causes severe dryness of the branches, and from a lack of moisture they freeze, break off and die. If you watched a beautiful spruce with a withered shoot and yellowed needles, then you should know that this happened due to a cold and strong wind. If the needles of trees are able to withstand severe frost, then she does not like the wind.

Everyone knows that the thaw at the end of February and March is characterized by a bright sun, the rays of which are reflected on the white snow. At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, and shrubs are still weak and vulnerable. Then pine needles and green thuja legs under bright light can get sunburned. Therefore, there is a need to shelter the culture for the winter, not to mention the break of branches under the weight of adhering snow.

Protection for medium height shrubs

To cover for the winter coniferous bushes that have not yet reached the age of 3, we first bend the branches to the trunk of the tree. To do this, we take a twine, preferably green or the same color as the trunk, and, without pressing hard, lightly wrap the cord so that the paws of the stems do not stick out. After that, we take a non-woven material or spunbond, and determine the size of the future bag. Then we fix the seam with a stapler.

To date, manufacturers offer ready-made bags made of agrotex various sizes. Spruce and pine need autumn shelter only in the first year of life.

How to cover shrubs and young trees of medium height so as not to damage the crown and preserve the integrity of the culture as much as possible? For this, a wooden frame is constructed from bars of medium thickness.

Advice! “You can make a frame from an elastic plastic mesh which is very convenient due to its flexibility.

It is better not to install an iron or wire frame, as the metal conducts cold and can cause frostbite of branches.

After preparing the walls of the frame, we wrap it with a covering material. It is better not to use polyethylene for these purposes, as it collects moisture. The moisture accumulated under the film in the winter cold freezes and does not contribute to thermal insulation or leads to decay and mold. In addition, polyethylene may not withstand low temperatures and burst, allowing the penetration of snow and cold wind. To protect coniferous plantations for the winter, it is better to use:

burlap;
spunbond;
kraft paper;
agrofibre;
lutrasin;
agrospan.

Any of the listed materials, except kraft paper, can be stapled to wooden frame. You can wind the insulation around the mesh, connecting the ends into a single seam.

Any agrofibre should be of medium thickness for air to enter (sometimes they leave a small gap or do not fix the top), but not tear from strong gusts of wind. After winter, shelters should be removed in early April or late March, when it gets warmer and sap flow begins. When to open the insulation you will be prompted by moderate melting of snow and air temperature close to 0 ° C.

If your pets have reached the age of 4, and you did not cover them, but only pulled them with twine, then we do the following frauds. At the end of February, on the south side of the garden, we install an awning from any available covering material. Our goal is to create a shadow curtain so that the conifers do not get sunburn from the blinding sun.

Protection for undersized shrubs

If your juniper or cedar is too young, or you are a fan of undersized crops, then the amount of insulation work is significantly reduced. It is enough to stock up on spruce branches in the forest and cover them with seedlings in the form of cone-shaped houses. Zealous owners prefer to install plastic containers on top of the spruce branches for reliable fixation and maintaining the temperature regime.

The industrial business satisfies any demand, and therefore the Moscow region is provided with covering material for planting in full. It is sold in the form of cone-shaped bags with a pulling rope at the bottom. So that the ends of the coniferous paws do not turn yellow, it is enough to use special bags.

Agronomist advice! “For young conifers with a weak root system, it is necessary to sprinkle the place at the roots with sawdust or mulch before sheltering for the winter.”

Extra Care

Despite the winter hardiness and unpretentiousness of the culture, mineral dressing will not hurt. Especially for freshly planted crops in the fall, so that they can take root until spring. The plant must be strong and disease resistant. How to feed pets in anticipation of cold weather?

We will describe several steps leading to successful acclimatization and overwintering:

we water in autumn 50-60 cm deep, not only near the root, but also in the radius of the root system. With heavy autumn rains, the procedure is canceled;
near-stem mulching with organic matter (needles, pine bark, sawdust, spruce branches, hay, etc.) is poured in 1–2 layers, not thicker, so that rodents do not make a nest;
feeding with biohumus and compost will support the vitality of conifers, as well as the introduction of magnesium with dolomite flour;
nitrogen in large quantities and manure can harm plantings;
in the spring at a temperature of +10 ° C, it is recommended to carry out treatment with biostimulants: epin, HB 101, Zircon. Sometimes it is enough to spray the crown with warm water and hide from the sun.

It is much more expedient to take care of the conifers than to restore them as a result of a careless attitude.

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Preparing conifers for winter at Sadogolik.ru

Beautiful majestic and persistent coniferous plants remain the only decoration of the garden in the cold winter season. It is traditionally believed that they absolutely do not need any special preparation for the winter. And in most cases this is true. Mature plants - pines, spruces, larches, thujas and junipers, growing on the site for more than one year, can easily endure any harsh Russian winter. But even for them, experienced gardeners recommend taking some preparatory measures that will allow the trees to feel comfortable even in the most severe frost. Not to mention tender young seedlings, which, without special preparation, can easily die in a harsh winter in a new place.

No matter how surprising it may sound, the main enemy of conifers in winter is not cold, but drought and sunburn.

During periodic winter thaws, the needles begin to work actively, evaporating moisture in the process, and the roots of plants located in heavily frozen ground do not have time to replenish the rapidly wasted moisture reserve. As a result, the plant begins to dry out.

In order to avoid drying of the plant, in October-November, before the onset of persistent cold weather and freezing of the ground, coniferous plants carry out abundant moisture-charging watering. For each adult plant, depending on age and weather conditions, at least two to three buckets of water will be required.

It is advisable to wrap young seedlings on the sunny side with any covering material, or protect them with a screen. In no case do not cover the plant with plastic wrap, under it the plants may be exposed to fungal diseases during winter thaws.

Of all coniferous plants, small dwarf crops are the least resistant to cold. As a rule, they endure the winter quite well under a snow cap. In the case when a little snowy winter falls, it is advisable to additionally sprinkle such plants with snow, for example, with garden paths.

Western thuja, Canadian hemlock, some varieties of junipers, black pine and Serbian spruce, as well as any conifers subjected to regular shearing, do not tolerate severe frosts very well, especially at a young age. It is advisable to completely wrap such plants for the winter with covering material.

Small conifers grown in containers can be moved to a bright, cool room with a temperature of about 5 C.

Another danger for conifers in winter is the threat of branch breaks. This can happen, for example, in the event of heavy wet snow. If possible, snow should be swept away in time, and it is advisable to tie vertically growing coniferous trees for the winter with twine. To avoid the needles getting warm inside the crown, the branches should not be squeezed too tightly.

It is important to treat young seedlings in late summer or early autumn with special preparations to combat diseases and pests. Periodically, they need to be inspected and in a timely manner to deal with often occurring problems.

And of course, do not neglect the fertilizer of conifers in the autumn. Phosphorus-potassium top dressing will help the shoots ripen and prepare for winter. At the same time, avoid applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers that stimulate the growth of young shoots.

Do not be alarmed if you suddenly find that the branches of some coniferous plants turn yellow by winter. Microbiota, Pseudotsuga green and some varieties of juniper really turn yellow for the winter, returning to their own in spring. original form.

sadogolik.ru

Shelter of conifers for the winter - how to protect trees from frost in winter? + Video

Foreword

Coniferous plants in the garden are stylish, beautiful, and prestigious. However, you will have to pay for such beauty - no, not with money, but with the time spent on care. The conifers need your attention especially in winter. In this article we will tell you why you need shelter for conifers for the winter and how to carry it out.

How to cover conifers for the winter

Sheltering conifers for the winter is a very responsible plant protection process, so we recommend that you study the video and other information provided in this article. Already in the fall, when the days are either sunny or rainy, you need to take care of young seedlings. The conifers during this period are not yet strong enough, which means that they can suffer greatly from strong winds or the first frosts. It is the first wintering that is quite dangerous for these plants. There are several ways to hide.

So, if your coniferous tree grows in a tub, then you should definitely bring it into a house or room where a constant temperature is maintained. However, the size of the plants can change your plans - if the trees simply do not enter the door, you will have to think about sheltering coniferous beauties right on the street.

As an effective and inexpensive covering material, you can use spruce branches, which are laid in the form of a hut, covering the plant from top to bottom. By the way, this affordable heat-insulating material can be used to protect other plants from winter frosts.

What to do if you can’t get the spruce branches? Then you can make a covering material in the form of homemade pillows stuffed with sawdust, straw or various rags. If the frosts in your area are very strong, we advise you to use everything in the complex to protect plants - both spruce branches and bags. All your multi-layered protection should be well reinforced so that nothing blows apart in strong winds. To do this, spruce branches are fixed with staples or simply sprinkled with earth below, and the pillows are tied with twine.

If one-year-old seedlings by autumn have already been planted in open ground, then here it is necessary to approach the shelter of plants for the winter in a somewhat different way. First, the root system should be insulated. To do this, you can pour a large layer of sawdust or peat over the soil in the region of the near-stem circle. Also for these purposes, the spruce spruce branches indicated by us above, laid directly on the ground, or simply coniferous needles, are also suitable.

Branches should be tied with twine so that they are pressed against the trunk. Firstly, then it will be much easier to wrap the plant heat-insulating material, and secondly, it will protect the branches from wind and heavy snow.

To shelter coniferous plants, you can use a material known as spunbond or agrofibre. It is a special non-woven material with a high degree of resistance to both low and high temperatures air. He is not afraid of precipitation - rain, wind, snow and even hail. A definite plus is that it allows air and steam to pass through, so that covered plants will not suffer from rotting.

Options for protecting conifers for the winter

Polyethylene can also be used to protect trees from frost. Only in this case it is recommended to create a frame from stakes or metal rods and fix the film on top of the frame. If you wrap polyethylene around plants, this is fraught with rotting needles, because the film does not let air through. When creating a frame, make sure that it holds well - it will have to withstand all the gusts of wind and the weight of the snow that has fallen. Watch the video, which details the shelter of conifers and options for protecting plants for the winter - you will get answers to many questions.

Closer to spring, try to close your conifers from sunburn. In spring, the soil has not completely frozen, the circulation of juice has not been restored - in these conditions, direct sunlight dries the needles.

Signs of burns are brown or yellow. So that the trees do not suffer, you should gradually open them to sunlight, increasing the duration every day. However, you can’t keep them closed either - needles can forbid.

In the end, it would not be superfluous to add that in some regions adult conifers may not be covered - for example, in central Russia, spruce trees that are 4 years old or more, adult larches and junipers may not be protected from frost. Winter-hardy in adulthood can also be pines, yews, cedars, arborvitae and fir. But young seedlings of these plants must be covered.

nasotke.ru

Preparing conifers for winter

Many of us are trying to ennoble our plots, for which various plants are planted, including conifers. Just about them, or rather about preparing conifers for winter, I will tell in this article. According to tradition, it is believed that conifers in winter time and so they feel good and they do not need to be prepared in any way for the cold. Yes, this is true when it comes to larches, spruces, thujas, pines and other conifers that have been growing in the garden for more than a year. These plants withstand even Russian winters. But still it is believed that for them, and even more so for young seedlings, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory measures.

Preparing conifers for winter

No matter how strange it may be, but in winter coniferous plants die mostly from drought and sunburn, and not from sub-zero temperatures. When the heat comes quickly in the spring, or if it is a winter thaw, the evaporation of moisture from the needles begins. In the same time, root system, being in the frozen ground, does not replenish the supply of moisture. As a result, the plant begins to dry out. To prevent this in the fall (October-November), you need to carry out abundant watering of coniferous plants in your area. Depending on the size of the plant and the weather, the water consumption should be at least two buckets per plant. With regards to young plants, a covering material or screen is used to protect from the sun. It is worth noting that polyethylene cannot be used for the purposes in question. It contributes to the development of fungal diseases during the thaw period. Among conifers that do not tolerate frost well, it is worth highlighting thuja western, black pine, Serbian spruce, Canadian hemlock, juniper varieties. Those conifers that are regularly sheared endure winter worse, unlike free-growing plants. In regions that are characterized by harsh winters, such plants need to be completely covered for the winter. If the plants are in pots or containers, then they can simply be moved to bright room, where the temperature of the order of +5 °C will be maintained.

In addition to the above, in winter, coniferous plants may break branches. In most cases, this is due to snow. To prevent faults, snow must be shaken off in a timely manner. Conifers that grow vertically, and they include Canadian hemlock, vertical varieties of junipers, as well as western thuja, are tied with twine. But at the same time, it is not necessary to tie the branches too tightly. Otherwise, the inner part of the crown will sag. What else can be added to prepare conifers for winter? If your site has young plants that have recently been planted, before the start of winter they can be weakened by fungal diseases, as well as various pests. To avoid this, it is necessary to treat plants at the end of summer or in autumn with the help of special means. Young plants should be periodically inspected and, if necessary, measures taken to combat emerging problems.

Top dressing of coniferous plants with a nitrogen content is stopped in early August. Thus, the growth of young shoots stops, and they begin to ripen. You can feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. There is a possibility of such a situation when the branches of the conifers begin to turn yellow. There is nothing to worry about, because in the spring they will take on their usual appearance. Here is such a small, but I hope useful article on preparing conifers for winter.

Detailed video about preparing conifers for winter

Sheltering conifers for the winter is a very responsible plant protection process, so we recommend that you study the video and other information provided in this article. Already in the fall, when the days are either sunny or rainy, you need to do it. The conifers during this period are not yet strong enough, which means that they can suffer greatly from strong winds or the first frosts. It is the first wintering that is quite dangerous for these plants. There are several ways to hide.

As an effective and inexpensive covering material, you can use spruce branches, which are laid in the form of a hut, covering the plant from top to bottom.. By the way, this affordable heat-insulating material can be used to protect other plants from winter frosts.

If one-year-old seedlings were already planted in open ground by autumn, then here it is necessary to take a slightly different approach to sheltering plants for the winter. First, the root system should be insulated. To do this, you can pour a large layer of sawdust or peat over the soil in the region of the near-stem circle. Also for these purposes, the spruce spruce branches indicated by us above, laid directly on the ground, or simply coniferous needles, are also suitable.

Branches should be tied with twine so that they are pressed against the trunk. Firstly, then it will be much easier to wrap the plant with heat-insulating material, and secondly, it will protect the branches from wind and heavy snow.

Closer to spring, try to close your conifers from sunburn. In spring, the soil has not completely frozen, the circulation of juice has not been restored - in these conditions, direct sunlight dries the needles.

Coniferous crops are in great demand in landscape design. However, not all decorative conifers are able to endure the winter cold. Some species, especially those imported from a mild climate, freeze slightly in the middle lane and need shelter. In today's article, we will tell you how to cover conifers for the winter.

Conifers do not have a pronounced dormant period. Even in winter, their life processes do not stop, but only slow down a little, which makes them even more sensitive to weather changes. Preparation of plants for winter should be carried out taking into account this circumstance and begin long before the onset of the winter season.

Already in August, it is recommended to stop nitrogen fertilizing so that the shoots stop growing actively and have time to ripen before wintering. In September, it is useful to add a phosphorus-potassium mixture. This top dressing will accelerate the maturation of wood and strengthen the root system. But there are nuances here: some conifers, for example cypress trees, need high humidity, and if autumn turned out to be dry, then the plant needs to be moistened artificially.

Most conifers by autumn have broken, yellowed or disease-damaged branches. They need to be cut with a pruner, and the cuts should be sealed with garden pitch. This important point before wintering, since the movement of juices, although less intense, continues, and infection can easily enter through the sections.

The next stage in preparing ornamental conifers for winter is watering, which is carried out around the middle or end of November. With abundant watering, the earth freezes less, and it provides the roots with nutrition in the spring, when the crown begins to come to life. Old and large trees, such as pine or spruce, do not need watering. You need to water only small and young specimens at the rate of 2-3 buckets per plant below 1 m and 3-5 buckets - if above 1 m.

Young seedlings require special care. It is recommended to water them with Kornevin's solution so that the roots develop faster before wintering. Since the root system is still shallow, tall trees are additionally strengthened by installing stakes, to which the conifer is then tied. Caring for coniferous crops in the fall also involves warming the near-trunk zone with mulch: foliage, spruce branches, sawdust or other organic materials.

Video: "How to properly cover plants for the winter"

In this video, a specialist will talk about sheltering plants for the winter.

Shelter time selection

For conifers, cold is preferable to overheating, so you should not rush to cover. If the trunk circle is well insulated, the plants will withstand even very coldy. It is recommended to thoroughly cover trees and shrubs only after the onset of stable cold weather, when the night temperature drops to -5 ... -7 ° C. In this case, the daily temperature should be taken into account. If sunny weather persists, condensation will accumulate under the insulation, so it is better to wait a while or cover the plants only at night.

When constructing a shelter, the climate of the territory must also be taken into account. So, in the northern regions, where the winter is frosty and protracted, in addition to surface protection, it is necessary to increase the layer of mulch, and fill the internal space of the frame with hay or foliage.

For southern and temperate latitudes, another problem is relevant: already in February, the number of sunny days increases, the crown begins to heat up and burns appear on it. To prevent this from happening, the crown must be shaded by installing a protective mesh or burlap screen on the side where the sun falls.

What dangers await plants in winter

Among conifers, there are many species that cannot be covered mainly because of their high height and wide crown. Such trees in winter lie in wait for various dangers:

Broken branches. Occurs due to the accumulation and layering of snow on the branches. Most often, spreading trees suffer from this phenomenon, the crown of which consists of many thin branches (pines, some types of cypresses, cedar). Periodically shaking the snow off the branches can prevent the problem.
Snow mold. The putrefactive process usually begins in the spring, when the sun melts the snow, but it has not yet fallen from the branches. The solution to the problem is similar - you need to shake off the snow manually.
Icing of branches. It happens during periods of thaw or after rain, if it immediately becomes colder. The only way out is to make supports for the branches. It is impossible to warm and melt the snow, as it is possible to wake up the kidneys prematurely.
Yellowing or discoloration of needles. This is a sign of a burn or lack of moisture. First aid for this problem is shading the plant and abundant watering. If the ground is still frozen, water should be poured in small portions. When setting the daily temperature to +8 ... +10 ° C, treat the crown with biostimulants ("Epin" or "Zircon").

All these difficulties can be avoided if coniferous plants are properly covered for the winter. Having spent a little time and money, you will not have to deal with saving or restoring valuable specimens in the spring, and they, in turn, will delight you with their beauty and decorativeness.

Not a single site can do without coniferous crops. It is they who give a picturesque view of the territory in winter, when all the deciduous trees are bare, and the flower beds are empty. There are so many varieties and types of coniferous crops that you can create entire compositions, the decorative effect of which will be high in any season. But there is one caveat: not all coniferous crops endure winters equally. If the seedlings were brought from Europe, where the climate is much milder than Russian and even Ukrainian, there is a possibility of severe damage to the crown and freezing of the roots. Let's take a closer look at how to avoid this.

You can reduce the likelihood of winter troubles to zero already at the stage of buying seedlings. If you purchase thujas, junipers in domestic nurseries, where they have grown for several years in the same climatic conditions as in your area, then problems with winter hardiness will disappear. Weak cultures freeze out already in the first year after planting in the nursery, so they simply do not reach the shelves.

But more often we buy planting material on the market, where it is impossible to check whether the seller gave accurate information about the growing conditions of the seedlings. And even if all the plants were grown in the local climate, there is no guarantee that they were not overfed with nitrogen fertilizers to accelerate growth. And an excess of nitrogen significantly reduces the immunity of crops and leads to freezing.

Therefore, the owners themselves must take care of the conifers, preparing them for hibernation at the end of autumn.

Works great in small spaces different types dwarf pine, which stands out for its winter hardiness and ability to withstand snow loads

Among the crops that are most damaged in winter, the leaders are thueviki, fir (except for Siberian and Vichy), metasequoia, cypress and cypress trees. In areas with a harsh climate, it is better not to plant these crops or tune in to the fact that every winter they will have to be protected from frost.

The list of the most unpretentious conifers includes:

Ate (except Eastern and Brewer);
Cedars;
Larch (except Western);
Pines (except Thunberg);
Junipers (except Turkestan and Zeravshan);
Hemlock;
Western thuja.

Other varieties need to be selected taking into account the length and severity of your winters.

Rules for preparing plants for wintering

Autumn moisture-charging watering

Despite sub-zero temperatures, life processes in coniferous crops do not stop, but only slow down their course. Therefore, trees and shrubs must be prepared for winter, taking into account this circumstance.

Before the onset of the first frosts (approximately the end of November), spend the last abundant watering of the conifers. Pour 2 buckets of water under each crop up to a meter, and from 3 to 5 above a meter. In this way, you will provide the plants with a supply of moisture for the pre-spring period. At the end of February, when the sun begins to bake, the coniferous crown comes to life and requires nutrition and moisture from the roots. And if it is not enough in the soil, then frost binds the earth to a great depth. The roots cannot take up water, so the needles become dry and easily burned by the scorching rays.

Irrigation is especially necessary:

one-year-old and two-year-old seedlings that have not developed a strong root system;
rare breeds of conifers with poor winter hardiness;
plants, the crown of which was formed and sheared in this season.

If there are coniferous trees grown using the bonsai technique or with a topiary haircut on the site, they need a solid shelter from the snow

Phosphorus-potassium supplements

In order for the young branches of conifers to mature by the beginning of winter, you need to properly feed the plants. Starting in August, exclude all fertilizers that contain nitrogen. It provokes the rapid growth of green mass, and this will greatly weaken the immune system. It is useful in September to add a mixture of potassium and phosphorus to the soil. Thus, you will accelerate the lignification of branches and strengthen the root system.

Mulching young plants

A necessary condition for a healthy wintering for rare and non-hardy coniferous varieties is mulching. Perfect option mulch - tree bark. It is large, makes it possible for oxygen to flow to the roots and, when the temperature rises, does not prevent the release of excess vapors from the ground. With this mulching, the plants will never dry out, as is the case with sawdust.

Adult conifers or those that were bought at a local nursery do not need to be sprinkled with mulch. They will cope with the winter without shelter.

Trouble during the winter months

If you have taken into account the previous tips, it means that in winter your pets will feel quite comfortable, but the care does not end there. Winter weather brings many surprises, and they must be dealt with in time.

Surprise one: heavy snow

Sometimes heavy snowfalls occur in winter. Wet snow settles on conifers with a heavy load, causing breaks in skeletal branches and breaking off thin ones. If your pet is covered with a sticky and wet snow cap, do not try to shake it off by tilting the branches or shaking the trunk. At this time, the bark and branches are so fragile that you will provoke cracking. It is necessary to wrap the end of the board with a soft cloth and pry each branch of an adult tree with it, gently swinging it up and down. Shake off all branches in the access zone of your growth with a stiff brush or broom, leading from the tips to the trunk.

The crown of spherical and columnar varieties can be saved by tying it with twine. Just do not pinch the branches, so as not to disturb the circulation of juices. The twine should tightly press the crown to the trunk, but not squeeze.

The crown tied with twine becomes compact and dense, without letting snow into the middle, which helps to survive the winter without breaking

Surprise two: freezing rain

With a contrast of day and night temperatures, tree branches can become covered with an ice crust. It has enough weight, tilting its paws and threatening the safety of the plant. You will not be able to shake off such beauty, as it tightly sticks to the needles. In this case, the props that you used to support in the summer will help out. fruit trees. Substitute them under any branches that are bent too low to keep them from breaking. It remains to wait for a sunny day, so that the ice slides under the rays by itself.

Surprise three: gusty wind

Some areas experience squally winds in winter. It is not dangerous for low-growing, dwarf trees or creeping shrubs, but vertical arborvitae, tall cedars or spruces can easily be uprooted (especially on light sandy loamy soils).

If weather forecasters have announced a storm warning, make sure by placing streamers. They are of two types: with fixation to stakes and anchor type.

The essence of the first option is that thick stakes are driven into the ground near the tree from four sides, the height of which is more than half the height of the trunk. A twine is stretched from each support to the trunk. It is not tied on bare bark, but the trunk is pre-wrapped with roofing felt or a wooden block is placed at the place of tying. True, it is not always possible to drive stakes into the frozen ground in winter, therefore, conifers have been strengthened in this way since autumn, especially recently transplanted large-sized ones.

With the help of an anchor stretch, you can not only protect the tree from gusts of wind, but make it grow strictly vertically.

The second type - anchor - provides for the installation of steel stretch marks, which are attached to the tree at one end, and pulled onto the anchor with the other. Anchors should be located outside the root system. To protect the barrel from steel, it is necessary to wrap the tree with thick burlap, and use wooden lining on top of it.

Surprise Four: The February Sun

Even the most persistent conifers run the risk of freezing or, conversely, getting burned by the end of winter. At this time, the weather is unstable, and often during the days the sun shines so brightly that it provokes an early awakening of the roots. They begin to actively feed the crown, expecting an early warmth, and then the so-called return frosts may come. You can’t stop the flow of sap, but you can cover the crown with a thick non-woven material, like lutrasil, or at least put linen potato bags on young seedlings.

To prevent rapid thawing of the earth, mulch it with sawdust. Their white color will reflect the sun's rays, and the roots will not wake up so quickly. But when a stable heat sets in, the sawdust must be removed immediately so that the plant does not rot.

Without shelter with lutrasil or other non-woven material, the crown of many rare conifers may not withstand the test of severe frosts.

Another danger is fraught with the sun's rays, which burn tender young needles. Therefore, at the end of winter, all annual seedlings and exotic conifers are covered from the south with shields or the crown is completely wrapped in burlap.

It is undesirable to protect conifers from the sun with non-woven material, as it accumulates heat and can increase the drying of the needles.

To protect against the February sun, you can use burlap or agrofibre, which creates soft twilight inside the shelter and keeps the needles from drying out.

Don't worry if some plants turn yellow needles in winter. This is how junipers and hemlocks react to cold. In the spring the color will be restored.

If you carried out all the security measures on time, the conifers will quickly recover from hibernation and will delight you with their decorative effect.

Coniferous plants planted this year do not have time to develop powerful rhizomes during the season and get stronger to survive in harsh winter conditions. Young plantings need protection created different ways using factory or homemade designs.

The optimal time for sheltering plants is dry weather, established with the arrival of stable cold weather. Protective materials are recommended to be placed on frames that ensure the integrity of the branches and the optimal ventilation mode.

We get ready-made shelters.

Purchased designs are ready-made kits that are easy to install and do not require additional devices. Among the many options, you can always choose shelters that are suitable in shape and size.

The frames of these products are made of polymer or metal tubes, bamboo rods or fine mesh. As a protective material, non-woven fabrics are used that allow air to pass through and maintain a dry atmosphere inside the shelter, for example, Snapbond or Agrospan.

We cover the homemade frame with purchased material.
Another way to organize a winter shelter is a separate purchase the right amount nonwoven material, saving about half the cost. In this case, the base for fixing the canvas is built with their own hands from thick wire. Homemade arcs are installed crosswise over the plant.

The synthetic fabric is stretched over the frame and pinned with wire pins.

We use wooden supports and burlap

To make a simple frame, you will need four pegs twice the height of the sheltered coniferous plant. ends wooden slats knock down with a carnation and put in place racks resembling compasses. It is better to stick stakes into the ground in advance, without waiting for it to freeze.

With the onset of persistent night frosts wooden base cover with burlap, fixing the fabric with pins or stones bent from wire.

We collect spruce branches

Spruce branches serve as an excellent winter shelter, additionally saving plants from rodents. The air layer created under the thorny branches is well ventilated and is less subject to temperature changes. Lapnik is harvested exclusively from healthy trees; infected needles cannot be used and diseases can not be transferred to young seedlings.

Long spruce or pine paws are great for shelter - they are folded over the plant in the form of a hut, tied on top with twine. But the short shoots remaining after the formative pruning of adult trees also come into play. First, wire arcs are installed on top of the bush. Then the frame is covered with cut branches.

The result is an ideal shelter that saves a coniferous plant from an ice crust in winter.

Another advantage of spruce branches is that it does not rot and does not contribute to the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.

We protect the root system.
The trunk circles of coniferous seedlings are mulched with some kind of organic matter, pouring the material in a loose layer at least 5 cm thick. A mixture of earth and leaves is well suited for covering the roots. Left in the spring under a bush, it rots and serves as an additional top dressing.

Coniferous plants remaining in containers are dug into the ground for the winter or arrange a blanket of sawdust around them.

The ground part of the seedlings is protected by any of the available methods.

Each of the considered structures begins to be aired when the spring rays of the sun melt the snow around it. First, the north side is slightly opened, and after the soil has thawed, the protective material is completely removed.
Winter shelter of young coniferous plants is one of the means that increase the winter hardiness of plantings. Do not take it as the only method that guarantees a successful wintering. An experienced gardener is always thoughtful about the preparation of plants, paying attention to planting, watering and top dressing.