It is not so complicated that it would be impossible to do it yourself. Carefully read the material presented in this article and you will understand that you can fill the yard with concrete with your own hands, and the result obtained as a result of the work will please the eye for many years.

To the question of what is better for arranging the yard: or concrete, you can answer that concrete is simple and reliable.

Scope of work

In order to fill the yard with concrete, you will need to sequentially perform the following steps:

• excavation;
• drainage system device;
• formwork installation;
• waterproofing;
• reinforcement;
• installation of beacons;
• pouring concrete;
• concrete curing treatment.

Each stage is important and cannot be skipped. Since it is possible to fill the yard with concrete only if the technology of work is fully observed, which will provide a high-quality, durable and beautiful coating.

The main stages of concreting a path or yard.

Excavation

These works have some specific nuances, since they directly depend on the relief of your site and the type of soil. If the soil in the yard is not fertile and you still have to bring in black soil, then all earthworks boil down to the fact that you need to mark the yard with your own hands, level the surface and add a thin layer of rubble.

It is necessary to remove the earth layer in such a way that the concrete surface is on the same level with the earth's surface, i.e. by 20-25 cm.

And in the event that the base is clay, then you can not add crushed stone. A good fertile layer is best removed and transferred to flower beds and beds, where it will be quite useful.

Drainage device

A drainage system is necessary to remove moisture from concrete, since the presence of water in the soil adversely affects its strength properties. It is a simple two-layer bedding of crushed stone and sand. The sand is first filled and leveled, with a layer of 5-6 cm.

Sand must be well compacted. To do this, it is best to spill it with water, and then walk on it with a rammer. The tamper can be made from a piece of a wide channel by welding a vertical metal handle with a crossbar to it.

The second layer of crushed stone, 6-8 cm thick, is poured onto the sand and is not rammed, but only leveled. For backfilling drainage, it is recommended to use a medium or fine fraction. A large stone will not immediately settle down, but over time it may shrink. As a result, cracks can occur in concrete, especially on narrow paths.

After all earthworks are completed, you can proceed to the main technological process, which begins with the installation of formwork for pouring concrete. It is needed so that the concrete does not spread to the sides, and the edges of the platform and paths are even.

Concrete walkway.

Formwork installation

As a material for formwork, it is fashionable to use any good flat material, which has one smooth side. Such material, for example, can be:

• boards;
• flat slate;
• chipboard (chipboard);
• plywood.

For pouring curved paths it is very convenient to use sheet plastic. In the event that your stock of materials does not contain anything similar, then you can rent a regular metal formwork in any construction organization. This is quite common practice today.

The structure is installed along the edge of the marked or excavated area, defining the contour of the future concrete structure. Fastening is carried out with stakes driven in on both sides.
It is allowed to burst the formwork elements that are opposite each other in the trench.

Waterproofing

A waterproofing device is necessary in order to prevent moisture from entering the concrete from the soil, and also to prevent premature leakage of liquid into the soil from concrete mix after filling it. In addition, in the future, the waterproofing layer will prevent grass from growing through the concrete layer.

As an inexpensive waterproofing layer, you can use ordinary polyethylene film. If you have an unnecessary roofing material or waterproofing, then use this material.

After the completion of this stage of work, reinforcement begins. It must be done in order for the concrete structure to become more durable and resistant.

For the manufacture of reinforcing mesh, it is best to use a finished metal welded mesh. The thinness of the wire in it should be at least 6 mm, and the mesh size should be at least 100 mm. It is very convenient to work with such a grid, laying it with ready-made sheets, overlapping each other.

If you have metal bars with a diameter of more than 8 mm, cuttings of old pipes, fittings and similar materials, then you can reinforce them.

All this metal is laid on the surface of the rubble and connected with each other with a knitting wire.

After you finish the reinforcement, beacons should be installed. They will accurately indicate to you the top level of the site or path when pouring concrete and making a screed.

Installation of beacons

As lighthouses, if we concrete the yard with our own hands, it is best to use a metal profile, which is used for drywall installation. Their cost is quite affordable and they will be able to provide the necessary rigidity without breaking under the pressure of the concrete mass.

In order to prevent rain and melt water from accumulating on the site and paths, their surface should have a slight slope. This must be taken into account when installing beacons. To do this, they are placed not along, but across the site. First, using a level, install two beacons around the edges, securing them in slides from cement-sand mortar. Gypsum mortars cannot be used to fix beacons.

After the solution has set, pull 2-3 cords between these two beacons, and install the rest of the beacons along them. As a result, they will all be on the same level. On the tracks, given their small width, beacon rails can be installed along two pieces.

Concreting of the platform and paths

By itself, pouring concrete is a fairly simple, but time-consuming and very responsible process. Depends on its precise implementation appearance of the entire concrete structure and overall quality. Work must be carried out at an outdoor air temperature of 5°C to 25°C.

In order to concrete the yard, you can order the delivery of ready-made concrete, which significantly reduces the amount of work performed. Or, in order to save money, prepare the concrete mixture yourself.

It should be noted that with a large area of ​​concreting the yard, the purchase of ready-made concrete is more preferable and expedient.

If the size of the site is not very large, then the mixture can be prepared independently. For this you will need:

• mixer-;
• shovel;
• buckets and a wheelbarrow for moving sand, gravel and ready-mixed concrete.

Concreting process.

The device of technological gaps

Prior to pouring, it is necessary to provide for the installation of technological gaps or expansion joints. They are needed so that when the outside temperature changes, it is possible to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete.

To do this, it is necessary to install flat strips 2-3 mm thick across the platform and tracks. It can be plywood or fiberboard. At the moment the concrete begins to set, they will be taken out, leaving behind small even cracks.

Concrete mix and pouring process

Before you concrete your yard, you need to purchase cement. It will depend on its brand. In the case of using cement of the common brand M400, 4.2 parts of crushed stone and 2.5 parts of sand must be added to each part of it.

As a result of mixing the mixture in such proportions, concrete grade M200 is obtained. If you use M500 cement, then 4.9 parts of crushed stone and 3.2 parts of sand are added to it. Initially, all components are mixed in a dry form, and after that you can gradually add water until the mixture is ready for installation.

Ready concrete is thrown with a shovel into the formwork in such a way that all voids are filled. Including the profiles lying inside. The height of the initial laying of the mixture should be 3-5 cm above the level of the beacons. Alignment is carried out using a plaster rule and a flat rail, which is gradually stretched along the lighthouses. As a result, all excess concrete mixture will be removed and the surface leveled.

Each track should be filled in at one time completely. You can stop only at the temperature seams. If on one day a part of the track is poured, and on the next day it is continued, then at the junction of the concrete laid in different days cracks will appear.

If you understood in advance that the work will not be completed in one day, then you can make layer-by-layer filling. First, half the thickness is poured, and the next day - the top layer.

Drying and surface treatment

After finishing pouring concrete, you need to wait until the surface dries and setting occurs. This happens, depending on the temperature and humidity of the air, in about 24-48 hours. After this time, you should remove the inserts that were installed to form the thermal seams, and clean the surface with a wide spatula from the remaining deposits and irregularities.

The setting of concrete does not yet mean that this material has achieved the calculated physical characteristics. The full hardening time for M200 concrete can reach 28 days, but it is believed that concrete structures can be put into operation after one and a half to two weeks.

As preventive measures it is recommended to cover the concrete pad and walkways with plastic wrap to reduce the rate of water evaporation.

At this time, care must be taken to ensure that the concrete does not dry out prematurely, and that it retains the water necessary to complete the chemical process of cement hydration.

In too hot sunny weather, the site should be periodically watered with water. After two weeks, the film can be removed and you can finally start using the new elements of landscaping your yard.

Finally

As you can see, do-it-yourself concreting of the yard is quite realistic. This work is lengthy and requires a lot of application. physical strength, but quite doable. But the concreted layer, in the end, is no worse in appearance, but much stronger than the asphalt one. The main thing here is to think over everything well, plan correctly and not violate technology.

Sooner or later, every owner of a private house or cottage faces the issue of arranging the yard. After all, we need walking paths, all kinds of areas for parking a car or barbecuing - do not knead the mud, in fact, after the rain? This is where concrete is needed.

You may say: “But what about paving stones or paving slabs?” Yes, it's beautiful, but in order for all kinds of paths and playgrounds laid out paving slabs, served for a long time, you need to make a solid foundation - pour a concrete "cushion" for them. Filling the yard with concrete pursues not only decorative purposes - a special blind area made around the house does not allow rain and melt water to erode the soil under the foundation and, thereby, prevents the building from sinking.

And now the main thing that can bother you is the process itself, how to fill a yard with concrete. How to make a concrete path or fill the site? These are the questions we will try to find answers to.

Do-it-yourself concrete pouring in the yard

concreting adjoining territory slightly different from, say, concrete floors of large areas in shops and factories. If the latter require a clear area with observance of the horizontal level, then in the garden or in the courtyard of the house it is almost impossible to maintain the horizon in most cases. This nuance is associated with the terrain. That is why you will have to forget about traditional levels and levels and learn how to how to fill a yard with concrete on a flat plane.

Stage 1. We expose beacons

An excellent device for placing beacons in a plane is the so-called "spider". Four tightly stretched threads will help to outline the boundaries of the plane in the best possible way. How to make it? The thing is quite simple - we drive wooden or metal pins into the ground along the edges of the platform being poured with concrete. It should look like a rectangle.

From pin to pin, we tightly pull two parallel threads, between which we stretch two more perpendicularly - they must be tied directly to the already stretched threads. You get something like sliders - two perpendicular threads should move over the entire area pouring the yard with concrete. It is on touching them that beacons are installed.

Now you need to choose the right plane. It all depends on the terrain and where you want to send rain and melt water. But in any case, you need to build on, first of all, the thickness of the concrete pouring of the site - who needs a concrete pad twenty or even more centimeters thick? The best option for concreting and platforms is a layer of concrete not exceeding 10 cm. By lowering or raising the stretched threads along the pins hammered into the ground, we establish the plane we need.

It may happen that one of the sides of the site will have to be oriented according to the level - the plane twisted by the propeller looks rather clumsy. The question arises of how to set the tensioned thread in the level. For these purposes, there is a small special level, equipped with hooks, with which it is hung on a thread. We cling to it and, again, raising or lowering the thread on one of the pins, we achieve its clear position in the horizontal level.

Only after creating a "spider" and orienting it in space, you can proceed to the direct installation of beacons.

Next, we knead the solution (preferably with a concrete mixer) and apply it in small slides arranged in one row. We press a drywall profile into these slides, which acts as beacons. At this very moment, you will need a stretched "spider" - along the entire length of the installed beacon you need to check for touching the threads. They should slightly touch the profile.

In this way, all the necessary beacons are installed, the distance between which must correspond to the length of the rule for stretching concrete. Lighthouses are left to dry for about 24 hours.

Stage 2. How to make a concrete path, or the role of reinforcement in concreting paths and platforms

Concrete, no matter how thick you pour it, tends to crack over time. For the most part, cracks form at the junction of several portions of concrete poured at intervals of a day. If you have finished concrete work today and are going to continue tomorrow, then in the absence of reinforcement or at least a metal mesh in the concrete, the probability of a crack appearing at the junction of yesterday's and today's concrete is one hundred percent.

That is why a lattice of reinforcement or thick wire is laid between the lighthouses - this is a guarantee that the concrete yard will maintain its integrity for a long time.

How to concrete a yard

Stage 3. Filling the yard with concrete - concrete pouring technology

Before proceeding with the direct pouring of your yard with concrete, first we will learn how to mix the mortar correctly. And let's start by determining the proportions of it constituent parts. As a rule, the composition of concrete includes three components: cement, sand and crushed stone - they are mixed in a ratio of one to four. There is no need to save here, everything must be observed clearly - 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of sand and 1 bucket of crushed stone. Variations are possible, like two sand and two crushed stone - only in this case you need to remember that the more crushed stone in the concrete, the more difficult it is to stretch and level it without special mechanized equipment (it is called a vibrating screed).

We pour water into the concrete mixer (its amount will have to be determined through experiments, I can only say one thing from experience - approximately 1.5-2 buckets of water will be required per serving of concrete per 1 bucket of cement), pour the rest of the ingredients there and mix thoroughly. Well-mixed concrete can be identified by color (no sand should be visible) and mass uniformity.

Now you can pour! We unload the concrete onto the ground and, using a shovel, evenly distribute it between a pair of beacons. The layer of distributed concrete should be slightly higher than the installed beacons.

Now we take the rule, a flat rail or whatever else you come up with, install it on two lighthouses, and, as if on rails, making reciprocating movements to the left and right, we pull the concrete towards ourselves. In this way, you need to make two or three passes - the task is to remove all excess concrete.

How to fill the yard with concrete - photo

So, batch by batch, methodically, alternating the process of preparing the mixture with its direct pouring, the concrete of the sites is carried out and garden paths. In conclusion, the next day after pouring, when the concrete has cooled down a bit and it will be possible to walk on it, the concreted surface must be cleaned - remove possible sagging and tubercles. For these purposes, you can use, as a rule, using it as a scraper, and ordinary silicate brick.

Sergei Golikov spoke about how to fill the yard with concrete.

The composition of the improvement of the territory of the suburban area includes the laying of convenient paths, the arrangement of check-in and parking places for the car, the floors in the gazebos, for the installation of a barbecue and coverage in other places. A reliable solution is concreting the courtyard of a private house. It's affordable and inexpensive option, work can be done independently without the involvement of expensive specialists.

Advantages of concrete pavements

• firm, smooth structure concrete surface, allowing the arrival of a heavy large vehicle;
• reduction of weed germination and the formation of coating pollution;
• the ability to pour concrete into the yard with your own hands;
• ease of maintenance of concrete, in summer it is enough to water from garden hoses, and in winter it is easy to clear snow drifts;
• ease of passage through the site in rainy weather;
• problem-free framing of any decorative elements on the street, flower beds, small fountains, benches, tables, etc.;
• environmental friendliness of the coating without emission harmful substances during operation;
• durability, if the yard is poured with concrete correctly, in compliance with the requirements of building codes and regulations.

Some features of independent work

Filling the yard with concrete

Scope of work:

1. Site preparation with cleaning of interfering elements, uprooting of shrubs and removal of roots.
2. Development of a pit to the depth of the fertile layer with the removal of weeds and their roots. Compaction of the base with vibrorammers. The evenness of the bottom is controlled using a level or laser levels.
3. Laying geotextile with an overlap on the edges of the pit.
4. Installation of a 15 cm gravel-sand cushion with subsequent compaction.
5. Installation of formwork from edged boards along the perimeter of the site and at the locations of decorative elements.
6. Reinforcement of the site with a finished road mesh or viscous from individual rods. protective layer performed with thickened concrete crackers.
7. Installation of beacons with alignment using a laser level or a long rule with a horizontal level.
8. Laying of concrete mix with leveling on lighthouses, observance of necessary slopes and arrangement of expansion joints. Compaction of concrete using vibrating screeds or platform vibrators.
9. The next day, pulling out beacons and sealing furrows. Surface ironing.
10. Formwork dismantling.
11. Curing concrete.

Asphalt or concrete, which is better in the yard?

Asphalt will last up to 10 years, concrete - ≥ 20 years. Concrete is more expensive than asphalt, but its greater durability and ease of maintenance will equalize costs in about 5 years. It should be borne in mind that asphalt sites have lower strength characteristics that cannot withstand the arrivals of heavy equipment. And most importantly - environmental friendliness of the coating. In summer, the asphalt heats up with the release of fumes harmful to human health.

Conclusion: preference should be given to concrete sites.

In order to perform concreting of the local area and equip your yard with reliable paths and durable platforms that can withstand high loads, it is not at all necessary to turn to professionals for help. Concreting, although a laborious process, is by no means difficult - if you wish, this work can be done on your own.

In this article, we will talk in detail about how the yard is concreted with our own hands and reveal all the subtleties, thanks to which the paths and platforms you have built will please the eye for many years.

How to concrete a yard

Do-it-yourself yard concreting: preparatory work

It is rather difficult to shovel a huge amount of soil manually, but the question of how to concrete a yard cannot be solved without this. In principle, it is possible to pour paths and platforms simply over a leveled base. Only in this case, it will be necessary to additionally import soil, and this is a considerable financial expense.

In general, look at the situation, if the yard is an infertile base, and you can’t do without adding fertile soil, then concreting can be done without removing the soil.

In such a situation, at the stage of preparatory work, it will be enough to mark the areas to be poured and fill them with gravel. The last step can also be abandoned if the construction was carried out on clay soil (it's no secret to anyone that clay practically does not shrink).

But back to normal conditions, when the adjacent territory is a plot of fertile black soil - in such situations it is advisable to move fertile soil to a more suitable place, and the concreting should be carried out in line with the terrain.

Preparation for pouring concrete paths

To start the path, the blind area and the platform should be marked - excess soil You should not move it, as it will have to be returned back. And this, at least, is a stupid job. The next step in resolving the issue of how to properly fill the yard with concrete is the removal of soil - as a rule, the soil is removed to a depth of 200mm. Why is so much soil removed?

Because in addition to concrete in these places it will be necessary to make a kind of drainage to remove moisture from the under-concrete. This will be the next stage of work, which provides an answer to the question, how to concrete a platform for a car or a track?

Where to start concreting the yard

Drainage or, as it is also called, backfilling under a concrete pad, consists of two uniform layers of sand from crushed stone. To begin with, sand is poured into the recesses left after the removal of the soil with a layer of 50 mm. It must be tamped in the most thorough way - to perform this work, you will need to make a so-called tamper.

It is a piece of channel big size, to which the handle from the pipe is welded - by lifting and lowering this channel with force on the sand, it is rammed.

You can go in a simpler way - in this case, the sand is simply poured with plenty of water, after which it sits down as it needs. The disadvantage of this method is the need to use a large amount of water, which is expensive. The next layer is crushed stone of small or medium fraction - it is carefully leveled and, like sand, is compacted. The crushed stone layer should be 50-70mm.

Do-it-yourself yard concreting: technology

After completing these preparatory work, the direct pouring of the tracks with concrete begins.

Concrete technology: features and nuances of the process

When starting work on pouring a site or a path made of concrete, the first step is to install the formwork, thus preventing uncontrolled spreading of concrete. As formwork, you can use almost any unnecessary construction material- the main thing is that it be even and smooth.

Old boards, slate, OSB or chipboard trimmings will do - if you wish, you can even cut into formwork old cabinets that you are going to throw away, or plastic panels leftover from the filing of the porch. By the way, plastic will become an indispensable assistant in the construction of curved concrete paths, since it bends perfectly. The formwork is installed along the edges of the platforms, i.e. with its help set the contours of paths and sidewalks.

When the formwork is ready, it's time to take care of the strength and durability of concrete, and these properties are provided by nothing more than reinforcement. It is possible to strengthen concrete as a special metal mesh, and any improvised metal. If there is old rusty fittings or pipe cuttings, they can be used, it is also possible to apply even steel wire, stretching it properly over the concreting area.

If we consider this process from the point of view of simplicity and convenience of work, then, undoubtedly, the best option there will be a use of a finished reinforcing mesh with a cell of 100x100 or 200x200mm. It is simply laid on top of the crushed stone filling overlapping each other. There should be no gaps between its individual elements, otherwise it will be a guaranteed crack.

Guides or beacons will ensure the evenness of the surface layer of concrete. At normal conditions beacons are installed in the plane of the horizon. And in the situation with the local area, this condition can be partially observed for one simple reason - if concrete is poured into the level, then its consumption will be incredibly large.

Yes, and this is useless, because inclined paths and platforms will provide high-quality drainage of rain and melt water from the local area. It is for this reason that the beacons are installed in the selected plane - it is not tied to the horizon, or only one of its sides is tied.

But back to our lighthouses - as a rule, drywall profiles are used in their role. This is the most cheap material, allowing it to be used to ensure smooth front surface concrete screed. Profiles are installed on mortar slides - when they dry (after 24 hours), the final stage of work begins, which involves the process of making a concrete track with your own hands.

How to fill the yard with concrete

Concreting is a simple but time-consuming process. And it can be done in two ways: order ready-made concrete from a company specializing in these types of work or prepare it yourself. It is advisable to choose the first option for solving this issue in the case of a large amount of concreting. If we are talking about a small and short path, then concrete can be prepared independently by kneading it in a concrete mixer or in an unnecessary trough.

Concrete is prepared as follows - 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand and 2 parts of crushed stone are poured into a trough or concrete mixer. All ingredients are first mixed dry, then water is added and the dry mixture is diluted with water to medium density.

The finished solution is poured between the beacons and carefully leveled with an even rail or plaster rule. Everything is simple and clear here.

Do-it-yourself concrete pouring of paths

At the end of the consideration of the question of how the yard is concreted with my own hands, I will tell you how to give concrete high strength. There is nothing complicated in this process - in order for the concrete to gain strength and not crack, it needs to ensure slow drying.

To do this, after the water has come off the concrete, it is simply covered with a plastic film, thus preventing the rapid evaporation of the liquid. If the weather is not very hot, then concrete can simply be periodically watered from a hose (morning, evening and afternoon).

It is unlikely that they think about how to properly concrete the yard, because special services are involved in this.

However, the owners of private houses are responsible not only for their dwelling, but also for the appearance of the building, as well as for the condition of the yard, since it is the "owner's face".

The most presentable are private sectors with a concreted yard.

Concreting is not only an indicator of the wealth of the owner, it can also get rid of most household problems.

You don’t have to fight weeds and mow the grass, it’s easier to clean the yard, and in winter it will be possible to clear the snow without any difficulties.

During reinforcement, metal scissors will come in handy. In order to level the finished surface, you need equipment for tamping. If it is not possible to purchase a tool specifically designed for leveling, this can usually be done with a thick board.

In addition to all of the above, a concrete mixer and a wooden grater are needed (to remove defects).

People with sufficient experience in concreting sometimes use improvised means instead of specialized equipment. However, for the first time it is best to get all necessary tools. V last resort, do the work according to the instructions of familiar masters, if you still decide to use alternative options.

Preliminary work and the main stages of concreting the yard

So, let's move on to the stages of preparing the yard for pouring. Below is a list of what you need to do first.

• The surface of the site needs to be leveled. Weeds and any other grass will interfere with the pouring of concrete and should be removed.
• Lay out the crushed stone in a layer of 20 cm and compact it with sand. Very often, the crushed stone layer is made thicker than the specified value, in particular due to the use of construction waste mixed with crushed stone.
• If the ground in the yard is hard, dense, then a layer of rubble may not be needed, since its main purpose is to strengthen the surface for concrete.
• It is recommended to cover the crushed stone with plastic wrap to prevent the germination of grass. Also, it will provide insulation from moisture.
• In order for the concrete coating to take shape, it is necessary to install metal formwork or special curbs before the bay. Formwork is also installed inside the concreted area, in those places where it is planned to plant. In general, concrete can be given any shape desired.

Finished with preparatory work, go to the main part, namely the pouring of concrete. All work is divided into several stages.

lighthouses

After the crushed stone pillow is laid out, you should proceed to the placement of the beacons. They will be reference points when pouring concrete, thanks to them the result will look neat and presentable. According to the standard, plaster beacons are used, as well as the "spider" system (ropes stretched between wooden stakes).

Reinforcement

Beacons are followed by reinforcement. It is a laying of reinforcement between. Most often, a special thick wire mesh is used. Be sure to fold the edges of the reinforcement down. The quality of the reinforcement depends on the resistance of concrete and the absence of the risk of cracking.

Solution

Mortar preparation is the most important stage of concreting. The service life of the concrete pavement depends on it. You can't skimp on anything here. All materials must be of high quality. Otherwise, in a couple of years you will have to repair the yard or re-lay concrete.

For concrete mortar, you need to take cement and mix it with water in a 1: 1 ratio. Then, combine with sand and gravel in proportions of 1: 2. It is very important to stir the solution well, it must be uniform both in consistency and in color.

Pouring concrete

The finished solution is spread with a shovel between two beacons.

Concrete should hide them by a few mm.

Additives are water solution, which means that you need to clearly calculate its dosage, otherwise the thickening time may change. The dosage is usually also indicated on the label.

Heating

Although the water in antifreeze additives is heated, it is still recommended to carry out concreting with additional heating.

This should be done so that when thawing in the warm season, the layer does not come off completely, as can happen when concrete is laid on a frozen surface.

Also, if you do not use an additional heat source, then the concrete will harden for a very long time.

In some cases, the process is delayed up to 11-12 months.

However, the ambient temperature must also be taken into account.

With its increase, the period of time during which the concrete will become strong will decrease. Therefore, with the help of artificial heating, it is possible to reduce the period even more.

Thus, concreting with additives against low temperatures does not present great difficulties. You just need to know the features of the action of additives various types, and for this it is enough to read the instructions on the package.

Alternative to antifreeze additives

Of course, it is quite realistic to do without buying cement additives. Concreting the yard in winter, you can use special high power transformers.

However, this option is more suitable for building objects, since the owners of private houses who decide to concrete the yard with their own hands, it will amount to a certain number of difficulties.

Also, there is a way to keep warm with a plastic film, but it will only work at temperatures from -3 to +3 degrees. When concrete solidifies, it releases heat, which the film does not allow to evaporate.

And yet, anti-frost additives are optimal for self-concreting. Their use greatly facilitates the process of work.

In general, you can equip the yard different ways: pave with asphalt, tile, etc. However, today concreting ranks first in popularity among the rest.

Concrete is much stronger than asphalt, and besides, it does not have to be spent much on it. Concrete can serve as a good basis for further finishing with the same tiles - so the result of the work will be of better quality.

The strength of polished concrete is presented in the video: