Garden folding table looks organic in the shade of trees suburban area, under a canopy or in the gazebo, while making the rest comfortable and convenient. A huge advantage of this design is its compactness when folded and the special warmth that comes from hand-made things. Anyone can make a folding table for a summer residence, especially since no specific tools are required in the process of work, and the material for the structure can be bought on any construction market.
Folding table with your own hands. A photo
Folding picnic table with your own hands. step by step photos
Before you start assembling a folding table, you should remember that half the battle is to use quality materials . The beam and board should have as few knots as possible, and cracks and delamination of wood are not allowed. In addition to lumber, you will need fasteners, hinges, and means to protect lumber from the effects of the atmosphere.
Materials needed to make a table
To make a folding table, you need to have on hand:
- beam size 45 × 45 mm - 8 pcs. 730 mm long - for the manufacture of legs;
- rails 45 × 20 mm: 2 x 550 mm and 2 x 950 mm - for assembling the upper frame of the underframe, as well as 2 x 350 mm - for the reclining part;
- plywood slats 40 × 27 mm for supports - 3 x 450 mm;
- 18 mm plywood with dimensions: - 985 × 585 - a sheet for the table top; - 2 sheets 985 × 530 for folding parts; - 1 sheet 885 × 481 mm for the shelf;
- rail 440 × 40 mm as a cross member;
- 2 rails 450×40 mm for side support elements;
- 4 hinges 60×34 mm for attaching table tops;
- 4 hinges 80×41 mm for folding legs;
- screws made of galvanized or stainless steel;
- metal dowels for mounting shelves.
When cutting blanks, try to ensure that the corners of all parts and their ends have right angles. To do this, use a joiner's square, and in its absence, you can apply the angle sheet material factory cutting.
Folding table do-it-yourself drawings. A photo
Assembly instructions
Before you start assembling a folding table with your own hands, you need to prepare parts from a bar for installation. To do this, a groove up to 20 mm wide and up to the middle of the workpiece (22.5 mm) is cut out on each part of the frame. The same distance is measured from the edge to the groove - 30-40 mm.
How to make a folding picnic table step by step
After all the grooves are cut, drill holes for connecting parts to each other, as well as fastening the legs.
To avoid skew of the frame when making a folding table with your own hands, on each leg do cross cuts, which during installation will include the corners of the frame. This process can be seen in more detail in the figures presented.
Properly prepared parts are the key to a quality assembly, so it is advisable to use quality equipment - good circular saw, drill, a set of chisels and other carpentry tools.
Assemble the top frame underframe(the common name for the frame of the countertop). To do this, the slats are assembled into a groove and fixed furniture confirmers(screws for a hex key);
Installed on the assembled frame support legs, combining the sawn parts with the frame rails.
At the corners of the plywood shelf do cutouts for supports. To fix the plate at a distance of 220 mm from the edge of the legs, install metal dowels.
Collect retractable supporting elements. To do this, the remaining bars are connected in pairs with rails installed in the grooves, fixing the junctions with confirmations.
After sanding and priming the countertop and other details, they begin to paint the steps, slats and countertops.
Mounted shelf spacer. Side jumpers are attached to the frame of the tabletop. Support rails are attached to the shelf, for which holes are drilled in it. Remember that this work requires special care, because even small displacements can affect the geometry of the table.
A jumper is mounted to the table frame, after which three additional spacers are attached.
Retractable legs hinged to external struts.
Main and reclining parts countertops fastened to the hinges.
The table top is placed on frame, after which the middle part is fixed on the frame with self-tapping screws.
The table assembled in accordance with our instructions will have sufficient strength and reliability. The main thing is to do the work in stages, in the presented sequence. Processing and staining must be carried out before assembly. Otherwise, it will not be possible to accurately paint individual parts and ready product will not look elegant and impressive enough.
DIY transformer table. Instruction
The sliding type table has a solid, stable design, and even a beginner can master its assembly. When folded, the dimensions of the tabletop are 1200 × 700 mm. After spreading the table top, a special insert is installed in the resulting opening, obtaining a tabletop length of 1670 mm. This makes it possible to additionally place two adults at the table.
Tools and materials
Before going to the construction market, write down what parts and materials you will need to assemble a table with a sliding lid:
- laminated chipboard 25 mm thick;
- PVC strip for pasting edges up to 2 mm thick;
- aluminum corners 50 × 50 mm in size - 4 pcs. 500 mm each;
- telescopic guides for drawers 500 mm long - 2 pcs.;
- furniture legs with a diameter of more than 60 mm - 4 pcs. length 710 mm;
- drawer latch - 6 pcs.;
- 10mm M4 threaded screws;
- furniture self-tapping screws 16×3 mm and 20×4 mm.
For work it is necessary to prepare such equipment and tools:
- milling cutter;
- electric jigsaw with a set of files for plywood and chipboard (fine tooth);
- circular saw;
- electric drill and a set of drills;
- screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
- building hair dryer or iron;
- wallpaper knife;
- bubble level;
- clamps;
- measuring tool, pencil.
Before you start cutting the material, make a drawing of the table according to your dimensions or use the design we have proposed. In this case, the dimensions constituent parts worktop covers are shown in the drawings.
Table transformer. Blueprints
Instructions for making a folding table
Stage 1. Do markup sheet material, then cut out chipboard details tabletops - an insert measuring 700 × 470 mm, as well as two halves of a table top measuring 700 × 470 mm. You can avoid chipping on the surface of chipboard by using an electric jigsaw with a special nail file with a low-profile tooth. Additionally, masking tape can be glued at the place of the cut, which will prevent chipping of the facing layer.
Remember: if you plan to process workpieces with a router, then be sure to make a processing allowance of at least 2 mm.
To cut the slab evenly, it is fastened with clamps to the workbench and the edge is leveled. The tool should be driven slowly, constantly monitoring the quality of the cut.
Stage 2. Facing milling cutter will allow you to get perfectly flat side surfaces. This tool also works slowly and accurately.
Stage 3. pasting ends of a table-top with a PVC edge. The workpiece is fixed with a clamp, cut off and applied to the side surface of the plate edge. After that, it is heated with a building hair dryer or iron and smoothed. After the material has hardened, the protruding edge of the edge is cut off with a wallpaper knife.
Stage 4. Handle all sharp edges and corners of aluminum corners.
Making a transformer table. A photo
Stage 5. At each corner, mark the middle and measure 25 mm from each edge.
Stage 6. Each side of the furniture rails is applied to the corner and the places of their fastening are marked. At the marked points, the corners are drilled. To prevent the drill from sliding on aluminum, punching of installation positions is performed. Corners and guides are connected with bolts.
Stage 7. Received guide designs stack on a flat substrate as follows: the corners connected to the inner guides (thin) are placed inward, towards each other, and the corners to which the outer parts of the guides are attached (fixed, thicker) are placed outward. After that, 4 holes are drilled in movable and fixed aluminum parts.
Stage 8. Both halves countertops stack front side on a workbench or other flat surface. From above, at a distance of 80 mm from the sides of the panels, retractable guides are installed (with a movable, thin part inward). In this case, the joint between the halves of the table cover should fall in the middle of each guide.
Stage 9. fixed half telescopic guide attached to the left half of the table cover, and the movable - to its right side. For this, self-tapping screws 20 × 4 mm are used.
Stage 10. Latches and hinges are mounted next to the sliding system.
Stage 11. With the latches open, both parts of the tabletop are moved apart and an additional panel. After that, all elements of the table cover are shifted to form a flat, gap-free surface.
Stage 12. Additional latch loops are installed on the middle part of the tabletop. The resulting fastening will fix the table both in the open and in the assembled state.
Stage 13. The legs are attached to the tabletop with 20 mm self-tapping screws.
Having assembled a folding table with your own hands, be sure to check the design for strength in extended and folded position. Only after testing the table can be considered fit for use and installed in a permanent place.
Make a transforming table- a great alternative to bulky furniture in small apartments.
economical, functional and comfortable, they release place for various things (books, computer, etc.) and space for outdoor games children's room.
model a number of tables-transformers so wide that can satisfy the most demanding taste.
Types of transformers
Furniture, which most often acts as a transformer:
- sofa;
- table;
- cabinet;
- rack;
- chair(child, etc.).
Several examples tables-transformers:
- -transformer
- Round table-transformer
- Table- sofa bed
- Computer table transformer
Important! When choosing a transformer, special attention should be paid to the safety of the product in order to exclude any possibility of injury during assembly and disassembly of the structure. Sharp edges and protruding metal elements are not allowed.
What can a transforming table be made of
- Wood
The most advantageous and simple in execution are made of wood. For this, a simple solid wood and sheet wood-based panels (plywood, chipboard, MDF, fiberboard) are used. - Plastic
Possible for a transforming table, but not a very aesthetic option. - Metal
The tables are strong and durable, have various decor options, and are made of hollow structures. - Glass
A more difficult option would be to use tempered glass for the manufacture of transformer tables. Such tables are aesthetic, safe and have an original appearance.
Chest of drawers
For the manufacture of a small table-dresser (for 4 drawers) necessary following:
Materials and accessories
- pull handles for all boxes (including two false ones) - 6 pieces;
- wheels furniture - 8 pieces;
- supports for wheels - 8 pieces;
- loops card - 4 pieces;
- loops and hinges for countertop;
- guides ball (400 - 2 sets, 450 - 4 sets);
- dark wood boards for the countertop, outer side legs (on wheels), inner side legs, middle wall (between drawers), chest of drawers bottom, drawer walls and 2 long walls, along which the upper false drawers will move to the sides;
- wood boards light color for the front side of the drawers (+ 4 false drawers on both sides) and the back wall of the chest of drawers. The length of the back wall is equal to the length of two boxes. The rest of the space on both sides of the dresser is occupied by a long wall along which false boxes move;
- thin wood board bottoms all boxes.
Instruments
- pencil, square, roulette;
- jigsaw or a hacksaw for wood;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- hexagons;
- drill with various nozzles (including Faustner cutter 15 mm);
- minifixes(for an eccentric screed) - 40-50 pieces;
- euroscrews-confirmations - 50–60 pieces;
- self-tapping screws(14 mm - 20 pieces, 30 mm - 50 pieces);
Dimensional drawings
Stages of work
Step 1. We draw and we cut out all the details of the future chest of drawers.
Step 2 On the side walls we draw and fasten retractable ball guides(400). On the middle wall, we fasten the guides on both sides.
Step 3 We fasten middle wall exactly in the middle of the bottom of the chest of drawers.
Step 4 We fasten the side internal walls, back wall and bottom of the chest of drawers.
Step 5 We collect all the walls boxes, we fasten the handles-brackets to the front sides (including fake ones).
Step 6 On the inner (which will be inside the chest of drawers) we fasten the two corners of all the boxes 2 balls from the guides (on which our boxes will roll).
Step 7 Screw the guides (450) onto the wall for false boxes and reverse side false boxes. We fasten the long walls to the side internal walls.
Step 8 We fasten furniture wheels to the bottom of the chest of drawers and to the side outer legs.
Step 9 We strengthen outside false boxes to the outer legs of the chest of drawers and slide them into folded position (set to functional boxes).
Step 10 Getting Started countertop. We fasten the three parts together with loops.
For lunchtime table such a design is enough complex. Most often, a dresser table is used when it is not possible to purchase a kitchen or dining table or in the manufacture of huge transformer table (more than 2 meters long).
Second option chest of drawers differs not only in size (700 x 900 cm when folded, 2100 x 900 cm when unfolded) and the number of drawers, but also mechanism transformations. Side inner walls maximum laid out at a distance of the length of false boxes.
table top in the unfolded state consists of them 3 parts - left, middle and right. Folding, the left side rests on average.
Table top rotates 90 degrees.
Right part descends on the back wall of the chest of drawers (hanging parallel her), and the parts stacked on top of each other form the upper surface dresser.
wheels are attached for the convenience of moving our chest of drawers, but they are not required. When the tabletop is rotated into working condition, it falls into position
Interesting idea portable folding table-transformer - an ironing board built into the wardrobe - is presented in this video:
I saw the transformer table only in photographs or on video, I didn’t have to contemplate it live. But I really wanted such a folding table to stand in our living room, because it has many advantages. When folded, it is a coffee table, and when unfolded, it is a full-fledged one. dinner table and unfolds in seconds.
Online stores selling furniture offer a decent range of such tables, but somehow the prices are not particularly encouraging. Yes, and I, as a person engaged in the manufacture of furniture on my own, was interested in making it with my own hands.
The main highlight of this folding table is the transformation mechanism. Now it is also available for sale. But why spend extra money. Therefore, I decided to make the table completely with my own hands without purchased transformation mechanisms.
I started my work by searching for the necessary information on the Internet. Most importantly, I wanted to find detailed drawings of the transformation mechanism. Since I have been collecting furniture for more than one year, both for myself and to order, I had no doubts that I could assemble a table, but I had never come across a transformation mechanism before. Therefore, the main efforts were directed to finding information about him.
I devoted several evenings to this work, and finally, a general picture of the mechanism began to emerge, as it should be. I wanted to make the transformation mechanism available in the assembly. So that during its installation it was not necessary to do specific work, for example, welding parts, or use parts made to order from a turner. All components must be freely available.
It was decided that the mechanism will have its own body (box), which I will make from furniture chipboard. Movable parts will be made from profile pipe 20x20mm. bolts with a diameter of 8mm will be used as the axes of rotation. And as auxiliary, lifting elements, gas lifts for furniture facades will be used.
Now it was necessary to design a three-dimensional model of the transformation mechanism (MT). The PRO100 program was not quite suitable for me for these purposes, so I had to quickly master another program for three-dimensional modeling. The easiest in terms of development for me was the Sketch Up program from Google. In it, I made an MT project for my table.
And then the model of the whole table.
It was time to move from virtual modeling to real modeling. To test the performance, I made a layout using building chipboard. From it I made a box and almost all the details of the mechanism. This made it possible to make sure that the designed MT works. Unfortunately, the chipboard stands turned out to be fragile and after the model fell off the table, two of the four broke.
With this model, I have already worked more thoroughly. I specified all the dimensions, slightly changed the initial design. I had to suffer for a very long time, inventing how to arrange gas shock absorbers so that they help when laying out the table. I probably took apart and reassembled the transformation mechanism eight times, while changing the position of the shock absorber mount in order to achieve the desired result.
Now I had the exact dimensions of all the details, I knew where and what holes to drill. In the PRO100 program, I made a three-dimensional model of the MT.
Bought everything necessary materials and started assembling.
For the manufacture of two transformation mechanisms, I used the following materials and fittings:
pipe 20x20 - 4 pm;
pipe 50x25 - 1.2 pm;
strip 20x4 - 1 mp;
bolt m8x120 - 6 pcs.;
bolt m8x60 - 2 pcs.;
nut m8 - 26 pcs.;
washer 30x8 - 24 pcs.;
intersection screed - 12 pcs.;
corner 45x25 - 0.06 pm;
bolt m8x50 - 2 pcs.;
bolt m4x20 - 8 pcs;
gas shock absorber 120-140N - 4 pcs.;
Chipboard - 0.3 sq. m
The weight of each mechanism turned out to be a little more than five kilograms.
Estimated cost of materials $33.
This is what the assembled mechanisms look like.
Now it was time to start making the table.
With the design of the table, I did not have any difficulties, because this is a familiar thing. In the PRO100 program, I first made a draft of several table options.
I liked the first option better, so I decided to do it. Additionally, I made a draft of this version of the table in the Bazis-Mebelshchik program, so as not to waste time manually calculating the dimensions for fasteners.
Acquired the necessary accessories:
eccentric coupler - 16 pieces;
confirmation - 32 pieces;
self-tapping screw 4x30 - 32 pcs.;
double plastic corner - 4 pcs.;
self-tapping screw 4x16 - 8 pcs.;
futorka D8 m6x13 - 12 pcs.;
bolt m6x30 - 2 pcs.;
bolt m6x20 - 8 pcs.;
bolt m6x15 - 4 pcs.;
hinge hinges - 3 pieces
Furniture chipboard in two colors dark and light:
Chipboard light 16mm - 1.92 sq. m;
Chipboard dark 16 mm - 2.69 sq.m.
In total, the cost of materials and services for cutting chipboard and gluing the edges was $75.
The assembly process did not take me very long, although at the final stage there was one nuance that delayed the work. But in the end, everything worked out for me and, in general, I was satisfied with the work. This is what my table looks like.
The table turned out to be quite durable, it confidently withstands my weight, which is a little more than a hundred kilograms.
The transformation mechanism works well. I unfolded and folded the table many times, there was no backlash in the details. But if necessary, you can always make the necessary adjustments, free access to the transformation mechanism allows you to do this. The paint is slightly scratched on the metal slats closer to the top. Probably, when folding, the racks rub against the edges of the support bars. But this is not critical, since it is not noticeable at all.
Unfolding the table is not difficult, although gas shock absorbers begin to provide tangible assistance only halfway through. The weight of the table is approximately thirty kilograms, it is quite stable.
Sitting at the table is quite comfortable, with my height of 180cm, sitting in the middle of the table, I only slightly touched the underframe with my knees. By the way, the underframe niche between the two mechanisms can be used to store tablecloths, napkins and other items for table setting.
But the most positive moment is the reaction of others. What is the look on the faces of my acquaintances when, before their eyes, the coffee table turns into, I won’t say that it is elegant, but still a full-fledged dining table. Not to mention the requests to make them the same.
Now the financial side of the issue. The production of this copy cost me a little over a hundred dollars. The average price of such a table in online stores is at least twice as high. The table looks exactly the way I wanted. On the basis of such a transformation mechanism, it is possible to develop a table of any design or construction, for example, a desk table.
If you are interested in drawings and a detailed description of the manufacture of a transformer table, then read my offer by clicking on the link.
| Created 07 May 2014 | |||||||||
An elementary sense of common sense encourages you to assemble a transforming table with your own hands - in this case, the cost savings will be from 50 to 75%, depending on the model and materials. Without significant loss of time, it may not be possible to make a sliding table if this is your first furniture making experience. However, the time spent is compensated by the acquired skills, which allow further projects to be carried out much faster. After all, not one House master does not pick up an instrument once: in the living room, bedroom, hallway there is always a place for applying one's strength and creative imagination.
Folding table-book
In many families, a large dining table is far from necessary. all year round. However, its presence can help out in the event of the arrival of guests. The sliding mechanism is the best suited for these purposes, equipped with a modest wooden table quietly stands in the corner, performing auxiliary functions. But when his time comes, he becomes the center of the apartment.
It is proposed to make a frame furniture mechanism with lowering halves of the lid. From the materials you will need:
- planed bars 20x50 mm;
- plywood or thin 10 mm planks (for boxes);
- furniture board chipboard, chipboard or MDF (on the lid).
Fig.1. Drawings of a folding table-book: 1 - leading frame; 2 - swivel frame; 3- reclining plane; 4 - drawer; 5 - assembly of the side part of the main frame (option B); 6 - medium narrow chipboard-top option B
Fig.2. Table assembly scheme: 2 - elements of the swivel frame; 3- reclining plane; 4 - drawer; 5 - leading frame
The mechanism of collecting a table-book:
- The legs of the table are cut to the required length.
- Mark them up.
- According to the marking, grooves are hollowed out for the longitudinal drawers (transverse rails connecting the table legs).
Note! The grooves for the lower rails can be made at an arbitrary height, and when gouging the upper ones, the height of the drawer is taken into account.
- Saw off along the length of the longitudinal tsargi.
- Single spikes are cut down at their ends.
- Glue the side frames (2 pcs.), Having previously checked the accuracy of the assembly with a square.
- While the side frames are drying, make 2 supports for the side covers of the table. They are also frame construction (in Fig. 1 and 2 - No. 5).
Mounting the table-book
The length of the legs of the support corresponds to the height of the legs of the table. The value of another vertical rack is equivalent to the distance between the outer edges of the longitudinal tsargs. And in order for the supporting support in the folded position not to look beyond the table, the width of the support should be equal to half the length of the sidewalls of the table.
Mechanism for assembling a table-book (continued):
- On the bars intended for support, it's time to make single through and deaf spike connections.
- The bars are connected with glue.
- In the dried sidewalls, they cut down and select recesses for attaching short transverse sides (No. 2 in the diagram).
- Sidewalls with these short sides are connected with glue and screws.
- FROM inside guide rails are attached to the upper longitudinal drawers for moving drawers (No. 4 in the diagram).
- The side walls of drawers (cupboards) are made of plywood or thin 10 mm planks.
- The front wall of the cabinet should be made of a thicker plank.
- Quarters are cut along the edges of these boards for attaching the sidewalls of the box.
- All elements of the cabinets are fastened with glue and screws.
- The bottom of the cabinets (drawers) is cut out of thin plywood or fiberboard.
- Note! The design feature is that the front wall of the box goes inside the legs. This means that the front plane of the wall and the edges of the legs are flush. And in order to achieve this, clamps are attached to the guide rails and the upper longitudinal drawers, which do not allow the box to move further than necessary (No. 3 in the diagram).
- Table covers are cut from chipboard, chipboard or MDF. Begin work with marking and cutting out the middle cover.
- Note! The edges of the middle cover above the table structure will protrude 20-25 mm. This will allow the supporting support to hide under the lowered cover half.
- The middle cover is fixed with four metal corners (No. 3 in the diagram), screwed with screws from the inside of the upper transverse sides.
- The side covers are attached to the middle one with a piano loop. It is screwed on from the bottom side.
- Note! If you turn the furniture structure over, dock all the covers, and only after that start twisting the loops, it will be more convenient to work.
Was ordinary - became folding
To assemble a transforming table with your own hands, it is not necessary to start everything from the very beginning. It is possible to convert an existing wooden one-pedestal or two-pedestal table into a sliding furniture mechanism. Structural solution in both cases, it does not differ much - the tables are equipped with a retractable element.
Fig.3. The mechanism for converting a two-pedestal table into a sliding one is represented by the front panel of the top drawer (1); board resistant chipboard (2); loops (3); horizontal chipboard board (4); screws (5)
To modernize a two-pedestal table, as the drawings show, it is necessary to get rid of the upper drawer of the right cabinet. If, due to the layout of the living room, it is more convenient for you to part with the drawer of the left cabinet, implement the project in a mirror. This question is not fundamental, the selected drawer must be completely disassembled. Only its front side with a handle should remain from it.
Another board is attached to this board with screws (5) at the end, the dimensions of which coincide with the dimensions of the box that was here earlier. Loops (3) are screwed from below, on which the thrust board (2) is fixed.
Board #2, when folded, should be in close contact with board #4, so that entry into the space freed from the box is problem-free. When extended, board No. 4 will act as an additional table, and board No. 2 will serve as a support for it. To avoid distortions, this plane should be tilted completely by 90 °.
Differences in retrofitting a single-pedestal table
A table with one pedestal, after modernization, will increase its area much more than a two-pedestal table. In addition, its exploded geometry will be different from the layout of a two-pedestal structure.
Fig.4. The mechanism for converting a single-pedestal table into a sliding table is represented by a horizontal cutout (1); table drawers (2); retractable board (3); hard board (4); wheels of the thrust board (5); squares (6); side wall of the table (7); additional rails (item 8)
As in the first case, you have to remove drawers. But this time it will not be cabinets located in the cabinet, but drawers located at the top of the table itself. Both boxes should be removed, and a horizontal cutout should be made on the left side of the box (1). The width of the opening should be equal to the thickness of the selected sliding board (3), which in the near future will become the plane of the elongated table.
The smooth sliding mechanism of the retractable board in the formed inner niche of the table will be given additional slats (8) installed in the direction of its movement. To prevent the board from falling out of its end, which is part of the furniture, 2 stoppers should be made. From the side of the second end to the retractable board at an angle of 90 °, a thrust board (4) on wheels (5) is fixed with squares (6). Board No. 4 is rigidly attached to Board No. 3, and when assembled, it fits snugly against the side wall of the table (7). In the place where the drawers (2) were previously located, a decorative plate is installed, after which the sliding furniture mechanism can be considered ready for use.
It is understood that the dimensions of your table may differ from what our drawings show. However, the measurements of all elements and the mechanism for re-equipping the table, presented in fig. 3 and 4 can be taken as a basis for the conversion.
Two-tier table
The proposed wooden table can be used as a coffee table all year round. However, it easily and elegantly, if necessary, turns into a living room decoration - a large dining table. The drawings of this product in different sources may differ slightly, we offer the optimal dimensions. Judge for yourself, when folded, this is a wonderful coffee table, it reaches a height of 752 mm. But by lifting the top of the structure until the supporting pedestals are disconnected, turning the cover by 90 ° and sliding the pedestal (3) into the pedestal (6), we get a high dining table.
Fig.5. Coffee and dining table for the living room. Consists of a tabletop (1); base plate (2); cabinets (3) attached to table top 1; support rail (4) of pedestal 3; stiffening bar (5); pedestals (6) attached to base plate 2; support rail (7) pedestals 6
The design of the coffee-dining table is panel, all elements are attached to dowels and glue. The manufacture of this item for the interior of the living room will require accurate measurements, it is especially important to withstand the dimensions of the cabinets. In addition, attention should be paid to the strength of the connection of the rails (7) on which the pedestal (3) rests.
Dear visitors of the site “Visiting Samodelkin”, from the material presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a transforming table for a gazebo from a 30x80 mm board.
I used different types of boards for the table: birch, pine, aspen, but it is best to take hardwoods, for example, birch, because the table and two benches are designed for 6 people, that is, the design must withstand high loads.
The advantage of this table is that it folds compactly into a bench with a back and back into a table with two benches, taking up little space when folded.
And so, let's look at what exactly is needed to make a transformer table?
materials
1. board 30x80 mm of different species (it is better to take birch boards)
2. metal corners
3. wood screws
4. wood glue or liquid nails
5. varnish
6. stain
7. M12 bolts
8. nut
9. washer
10. nails
Instruments
1. hacksaw
2. screwdriver
3. drill
4. hammer
5. ruler
6. pencil
7. tape measure
8. protractor
9. corner
10. brush
Step-by-step instructions for creating a do-it-yourself transformer table.
After a long search on the Internet for a suitable drawing, I set to work, first of all I drew leg templates right on the floor, you can also use a sheet of plywood.
Then he cuts the boards according to size, the author used different types of wood: aspen, pine, birch, but it is best to take solid wood. Please pay attention! There will be two benches, namely internal and external. First of all, the master makes an outdoor bench, he showed us all the detailed dimensions directly in the photographs, which is very convenient. The height of the legs is 440 mm, the width of the legs at the bottom is 400 mm, which is very good for the stability of the bench. Attention important point! the length of the inner crossbar is 150mm, remind again The crossbar is inside.
The length of the outer bench is 1380 mm, all workpieces must be carefully sanded before assembly and be sure to chamfer so that the surface is smooth, even, as they say "No hitch"
The bench turns out to be simple, and the master makes the fastening with the help of wood screws, carpentry glue, and adds metal corners for greater reliability, since the structure must be extremely durable.
So, let's move on) Now you need to collect Inner bench Note! The height of the legs on both benches should be exactly the same, but the cross member that fastens the legs is brought out and its length is accordingly increased to 400 mm, the length of the upper bar is 350 mm where a hole for the M12 bolt is drilled at a distance of 40 mm from the edge and reamed to drown the bolt head in cavities of the board so that nothing protrudes. The author indicated all the necessary dimensions directly on the photo.
The length of the bench is 1440 mm, but in each individual case the dimensions may vary, because everyone makes it for themselves, but as a standard we use the dimensions presented by the master.
Holes are drilled in the top plate.
After both benches are ready, they need to be tried on and one should fit into the other with a small gap (see photo)
That is, two benches when folded should create one whole.
Here's what the end result should be.
We figured out the benches a little, now we turn to the consideration of the author’s further actions, namely the manufacture of brackets from a bar. The angle of connection of two bars should be about 100-105 0 (see photo) where bar "A" is responsible for the width of the tabletop, and bar "B" is the height from the top of the bench to the tabletop.
A hole for the M12 bolt is drilled in the beam "B" and reamed to drown the head in the cavity of the wood.
After that, the resulting brackets should be connected to the inner bench, at the junction we put a washer so that there is no pairing.
The head of the bolt is recessed into the drilled hole.
Same thing with the opposite side.
In general, 2 brackets are fixed in this way, which are responsible for the height and width of the countertop.
Then both brackets should be aligned.
And now the fun begins)) you need to connect the table top with an outdoor bench, this is done using a straight bar, its dimensions are indicated in the photo.
These straps need to be made 2 pieces, the author suffered for a long time to get Exact size in the process of fitting, so that in each individual case there may be errors. To begin with, the master drove nails along the edges of the planks and with the help of them made markings, that is, he drove a nail so that it stuck out a little on the other side and made a mark, and then drilled a hole for the M12 bolt
Everything must first be carefully adjusted, and then calmly drilled, as the saying goes, "Measure seven times, cut once."
On this plank without fail you need to make a limiter so that your countertop does not move apart, for example, for the author, it looks like this.
That is, when unfolding, it will fix the countertop in a level position and will not give further progress.
As you can see, everything is quite simple, a piece of board is sawn at a certain angle and attached to the bar with 2 self-tapping screws.
For complete symmetry, the same thing is done on the second bar.
