One of the most inexpensive, durable, practical options roofing material -, or, as they say, profiled sheet, metal profile. This is a sheet of metal that is covered with several protective layers, and then passed through a molding machine, which presses projections and grooves into it - to make it more rigid. The material turns out to be quite light, corrugated roofing can be mounted independently and even "in one hand". The technology is not the most difficult, it is quite possible to do it yourself.
Types of corrugated board
Exist different types corrugated board. There is a regular profiled sheet - galvanized, there is a colored one - with a layer of polymer applied over the zinc coating. The polymer coating has a double role - it both protects against external influences and makes the material more decorative. appearance. Simple galvanized corrugated board is used as a roofing material mainly on temporary buildings, colored has a very solid appearance, it can be seen on the roofs of residential buildings and courtyard buildings.
By appointment
Decking is made from sheet metal different thickness. The thinnest ones are designed for decorating walls, but can be laid on the roof with frequent lathing and small snow loads. The sheets of this group are marked with the letter "C".
From the thickest metal, a material with increased bearing capacity is made. It is marked with the letter "H", used as a roofing material in areas with increased wind or snow load. There is also a universal profiled sheet - it is designated "NS". It can be used both for walls and for roofing (the amount of snow should be average).
After the letter encoding of the profiled sheet, there are numbers: C8, H35, HC20. They indicate the height of the wave in millimeters, which is formed in this material. In the example, these are 8 mm, 35 mm, 20 mm, respectively. A corrugated board with a wave height of at least 20 mm is laid on the roof.
The waveform of the supporting metal profile is often more complex - additional grooves are added to it to increase rigidity.
By type of coverage
With all the external similarity, the price of corrugated board of the same type can differ significantly. The point, most often, is not the impudence of the manufacturer or seller, but the different technologies and materials that are used in production. For example, the protective coating may be zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second type of protection has appeared recently, the equipment is expensive, but the durability of metal coated with aluminum zinc is much higher.
The method of wave formation also affects the durability of the coating. There are two technologies - cold rolling and emulsion. During cold rolling, the sheet is simply pressed through by rollers without any preparation. In order not to damage the previously applied coating, expensive equipment is required. Accordingly, cold rolled profiled sheet is more expensive.
When forming a wave with an emulsion, the metal surface is wetted with a liquid (oil, water, special liquid) and then sent under the rolls. If, after rolling, such a sheet is not dried, but sent to a firing oven to fix the paint, then the places that were wet will quickly begin to rust. It is impossible to see this defect in advance, one has to hope that the technology is not broken. But the profiled sheet made using this technology is cheaper.
There are also different polymer coatings. They create a film of different thickness and density, with different properties.
- Polyester (glossy and matte). The polyester-coated profiled sheet has a relatively low price (the cheapest of the colored ones) and good characteristics - the coating is plastic, long time does not change its color. Matte polyester has no glare on the surface, it looks like velvety. This is achieved by a different application technique and a thicker layer. This coating is the most resistant to mechanical damage.
- Plastisol. It has increased resistance to aggressive environments, but does not tolerate ultraviolet light. A corrugated roof with a plastisol coating will fade quickly (two to three years).
- Pural - polyamide and acrylic are added to polyurethane. The coating is more uniform, the service life without color change is from ten years. The disadvantage is the high price.
- PVDF is a compound of polyvinyl fluoride and acrylic. The coating is expensive, but it lasts a long time even in an aggressive environment. This roofing material can be used on sea coasts. Another of its remarkable properties is that it can self-clean. The slightest rain, and the PVDF-coated corrugated roof shines like new.
Under normal conditions, roofing is made of corrugated board with a polyester coating. In terms of price-quality ratio, it is optimal.
How to lay corrugated board on the roof
Roofing from corrugated board is laid on a finished crate of boards, in which the fragments are arranged parallel to the roof overhang. The installation step of the crate is up to 60 cm. They usually use an edged inch board, 25 mm thick. Sheets are stacked one after another with vertical overlap on one wave. When laying the profiled sheet on the roof, please note that the extreme shelves have different lengths. The one that is a little shorter should be at the bottom, which is a little longer - it covers the short one. In this case, they adjoin one another tightly, without a gap. If you confuse and do the opposite, then a gap of several millimeters is formed between the two shelves, into which water will flow. Therefore, be careful during installation.
On the amount of horizontal overlap. If there is more than one row of corrugated board on the roof, the sheets are laid with overlap. The amount by which the top sheet overlaps the bottom sheet depends on the angle of the roof slope: the more gently sloping the roof, the more entry is needed.
Most decking factories can offer you sheets that will cover your entire roof - from ridge to eaves - in one long sheet (maximum length 12 meters). During installation, this creates certain difficulties - such sheets are difficult to lift and stack. Especially it will take a long time to expose the first sheet - it must be placed strictly vertically, which is difficult at a height. But the main advantage of such a solution is a continuous coating from top to bottom, which at times increases the degree of protection of the attic from moisture penetration, crosses out all the inconveniences. After all, there are no horizontal joints, which means there are no problems with leakage either.
How to fix corrugated board on the roof
To fasten the profiled sheet, special self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets under the caps are used. They provide a tight connection. Such self-tapping screws are usually painted in the same tone as the roofing material. Number of fasteners per square meter- 5-7 pieces (do not forget to add about 20% - for fastening the ridge element, fixing joints and other similar work).
Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower shelf, where the sheet is in contact with the crate. Their length is 20-25 mm, depending on the thickness of the batten board, since it is important that the sharp end of the screw does not protrude from reverse side boards. There will be located waterproofing film which may be damaged.
When connecting two adjacent sheets, they are also fastened with self-tapping screws. But in this case, you have to screw the fasteners into the wave, and also punch through a double layer of metal. For these purposes, the fasteners are longer - 40 mm or more (depending on the height of the wave) - the screw must go into the crate board.
How to cut
Very rarely, the installation of corrugated roofing does without trimming - these are just unique cases. How to cut a profiled sheet? Metal shears or electric jigsaw. Yes, it's slow, and not very convenient, but that's exactly what the manufacturers advise. It is impossible to use an angle grinder (grinder) - when cut with it, the sheet heats up to very high temperatures at the cut point, which leads to the evaporation of zinc. As a result, in this place, the material quickly begins to rust.
Mounting order
After collecting truss system they nail the front board, attach hooks for installation to it, and on top of an already special bar - a dropper, on which the edge of the waterproofing film is then wound. Both the dropper and the film are attached to it with self-tapping screws with a sealing rubber washer.
The composition of the pie of materials for corrugated board depends on whether you are going to make the attic space cold or warm. If the attic is cold, the sequence of actions is as follows:
If the roof will be insulated, the order of work and the amount of required materials will change. There will be more layers:
Roofing from corrugated board: knots
Even with a conventional gable roof, there are several complex sections that are usually formed at the junction of different planes and / or parts of the system. These areas are called "nodes". We considered one such knot in the previous paragraph - the design of the front board and the fastening of drains. But this is far from the only node where a detailed explanation is required.
Installation and sealing of the ridge
The under-roof space under the corrugated board should be well ventilated. This material heats up quickly and also cools down quickly, which contributes to the formation of condensation. Therefore, when installing a metal profile on the roof, in the upper part, the sheets on both sides do not join closely, but leave a gap of several centimeters - so that air can freely escape, taking water vapor with it.
If there are special skates with ventilation (pictured), but even if you just install a regular ridge element between the profiled sheet and its edge, you get a large number of holes - in each corrugation cavity. The size of this gap depends on the height of the wave - the higher the wave, the larger the gaps. On the overhang, where the front board is nailed, there are also similar holes. Air movement usually goes from bottom to top - from the overhang, through the under-roof space (for this, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps that are formed by the crate when installing the roofing material), to the slots in the ridge. This is how the ventilation and regulation of the humidity of the insulation takes place, the condensate evaporates and is carried away.
Large gaps are good for ventilation, but precipitation clogs in them when it rains / snows with the wind, and dust and leaves get into the attic through them. It is much worse if the holes are clogged with leaves - ventilation will immediately deteriorate. In order not to get into a similar situation, earlier about 2/3 of the height of the gap was filled with sealant, applying it in layers to the roofing material. Crawling back and forth with sealant on the top of the roof, waiting for the previous layer to polymerize a little, is not very convenient. Also, this decision is wrong from the point of view of ventilation - the gap decreases, air movement worsens. But there was no other solution. Now it is - a sealant for corrugated board. It is made from polyurethane foam, polyethylene or wood composite. The structure of these materials is porous, well passes air, but not dust, water or leaves. In shape, it either repeats the shape of the corrugation - there is a different types profiled sheet, and there is also a universal tape, which is simply pressed in the right places.
The sealant "sits" on the sealant, double-sided tape, glue, there are options with self-adhesive tape. With such a seal, air passes freely, and precipitation remains in the outer layers, from where it then evaporates.
Overhang filing with profiled sheet
In order to sheathe the overhang with a profiled sheet, a special profile is attached to the front board. A profiled sheet is inserted into its groove, cut into strips of the desired width. The second edge of the filing is attached to a board nailed to the ends of the rafters. The junction of the filing and the board is closed with two droppers - one is nailed from below, covering the lower half of the board, and the second - from above. The edge of the waterproofing film is then laid on it.
If a drainage system is to be attached, then the hooks for the gutters are nailed after the installation of the lower dripper. The top dropper is nailed after all the hooks are installed.
Adjacency of corrugated board to the wall
In some cases, a metal profile roof is adjacent to the wall of some structure. How to make a connection so that there are no leaks? There are two options (see picture). Both use a corner bar, only it has different size and different profile.
You can take a corner bar with shelf dimensions of 150 * 200 mm. A shorter side is brought to the wall, a longer side to the roof They are attached to the wall using fasteners depending on the material from which it is made (nails or self-tapping screws, if it is wood, dowels, if brick and building blocks). The junction of the plank with the wall pass silicone sealant. From the side of the roof, a bar is attached to the crest of the wave by installing special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. Their length is determined in the same way as when connecting adjacent sheets of corrugated board (wave height + 20 mm for entering the crate board).
The second option is more time-consuming: a strobe (groove) is made in the wall, into which an angle bar with shelves bent at 45 ° is inserted. The fastening in this case is similar, the difference is in the dimensions of the bar - it can be 100 * 100 mm or so.
Pipe passage
Many questions arise when sealing the passage of a chimney pipe or ventilation through a corrugated roof. Pipes in cross section are round and rectangular, each type has its own solution.
For the passage of round pipes through the roofing material, there are special steel or polymer aprons. Their upper part is made in the form of a cone, the lower part - a skirt - is made of an elastic material that can take a given shape. The apron is tightly put on the pipe, lowered so that the "skirt" lies on the roofing material. Next, you need to give the elastic skirt the shape of the corrugations. Use a hammer for this (normal or rubber - depends on the type of apron). To prevent water from flowing under the skirt, the joint is smeared with sealant, pressed well.
After fixing the skirt, the neck is fixed. If the apron is metal, the top is covered with a clamp, tightened, the joint is coated with sealant. When using a polymer apron (master flush), it is put on the pipe with a decent effort (sometimes it is even necessary to lubricate the pipe with soapy water), but the joint, nevertheless, for reliability, is sealed.
With a rectangular (brick) pipe, everything is somewhat more complicated. Elements are cut out of metal sheets that close the joint with the roofing pie.
Metal roofing was one of the first truly durable and practical roofing materials used for residential construction. The disadvantages of roofing steel were considered only low corrosion resistance and load-bearing capacity. Modern materials based on this alloy in comparison with it have best performance, so the metal profile is very popular with developers. Convenient sheet dimensions facilitate the installation of the coating, and the affordable cost allows it to be used even in conditions limited budget. In this article we will tell you how to cover the roof with a metal profile so that it lasts for many years.
Metal profile for the roof is a practical roofing material, which is made of galvanized steel. From the sheet metal used for construction, it differs in a pronounced profile, which gives the coating additional rigidity and load-bearing capacity. The thickness of the metal profile sheet is 0.5-1.2 mm, and the dimensions can vary at the request of the customer. There are two types of this roofing:
Note! The metal profile is suitable for roofs with a slope angle of at least 12 degrees. However, professional roofers and manufacturers of this practical material claim that it is possible to make a reliable metal coating for a roof with a slope of 8-9 degrees, provided that the joints are thoroughly waterproofed with a sealant.
Advantages and disadvantages
The metal profile roof is highly practical, so it is the most common constructive solution for low-rise residential and garden houses. In addition, corrugated board is truly versatile. construction material, with which you can cover the roof, sheathe the walls or even build a garage. The advantages of a metal profile are:
- High strength. The strength of the profiled steel sheet is so high that it can withstand a 3-meter layer of snow even with a very rarefied crate.
- A light weight. The weight of a sheet of this material, depending on the thickness of the metal and the height of the profile, is 5-15 kg. A small mass allows you to mount the coating on a sparse crate.
- Corrosion resistance. Galvanized steel is inert with respect to air, therefore it does not enter into oxidative reactions with it. More resistant to corrosion, the material helps to make a special coating of resistant polymer.
- Universal sizes. It is possible to make sheets, the size of which corresponds to the length of the slope, in order to avoid horizontal seams during installation, which reduce the waterproofing qualities of the coating.
- Fire resistance. Galvanized steel is a non-combustible roofing material, so its installation can be carried out even in buildings with an increased risk of fire.
- Low weight. Due to the fact that the metal profile weighs little, installation can be performed without reinforcing the truss frame.
Please note that metal roofs have high thermal conductivity and resonant ability, so their installation is carried out in combination with an insulating material. In addition, the disadvantage of this type of roofing is the large amount of waste generated due to the fact that the shape and size of the sheet require significant adjustment during installation.
roofing cake
Roofing from a metal profile has a complex, multilayer structure, which gives it the necessary waterproofing, strength and heat-insulating qualities. Each layer of construction improves the quality and extends the life of the roofing. The roofing pie for the metal profile looks like this:
- Crate. A crate is called a sparse flooring made of edged board or rails fixed across the rafter legs on which the roofing material must be attached. For a profiled steel sheet, a sparse crate is required in increments of 60-100 cm.
- Thermal insulation. Thermal insulation is necessary to reduce the thermal conductivity of the material and sound insulation. It is necessary to fix the insulation plates between the rafter legs of the frame.
- Vapor barrier. Vapor barrier is a special membrane that allows air to pass through, but does not allow water molecules to pass through. It serves as protection for the roof frame and insulation from getting wet and rotting. The vapor barrier material is fixed on the underside of the rafters.
- Waterproofing. Waterproofing material protects the rafters and insulation from atmospheric moisture. It must be fixed on top of the rafters using a construction stapler.
- Finish coating. The top layer of the roofing cake is metal tile or corrugated board, which are overlapped with an overlap of 10-25 cm.
Important! Installation of the finishing coating is carried out using special roofing screws, which are equipped with special press washers made of rubber or latex. When screwing the screw, the washer is deformed and closes the mounting hole from the penetration of atmospheric moisture.
Design features
The size and bearing capacity of the sheet affects the size of the step of the crate under the metal profile. And the amount of overlap between the roofing sheets is determined by the angle of inclination of the slopes:
- On low-slope roofs with a slope angle of less than 12 degrees, the metal profile is laid with an overlap of 25 cm, subject to mandatory sealing of the joints.
- On low-slope roofs with a slope of 12-15 degrees, the overlap should be 20-25 cm.
- On medium-slope roofs with a slope of 15-30 degrees, the overlap is 15-20 cm.
- On steeply sloping roofs, where the angle of inclination of the slopes exceeds 30 degrees, the installation of the coating is carried out with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
Experienced craftsmen claim that the turnkey installation of a roof made of metal tiles, excluding the cost of the material, is 1000-1500 rubles per square meter.
Video instruction
Among the wide variety of roofing materials used to build roofs over residential buildings, metal roofing is considered the most durable and practical. Roofing steel has only two drawbacks, poor corrosion resistance and low load-bearing capacity, which prevents it from becoming a strong competitor.
However, on the basis of this alloy, modern roofing coatings are obtained, which are characterized by improved characteristics. Easy installation, convenient dimensions and relatively low price make the metal profile popular with most developers. However, it is important to know everything about the material and how to properly cover the roof with a metal profile.
Types of metal profile for the roof
The metal profile is considered one of the practical roofing materials made on the basis of galvanized steel. Unlike sheet material it has a pronounced profile, which increases the rigidity of the material and its load-bearing capacity. The thickness of the coating sheets can vary from 0.5 to 1.2 mm, and the dimensions depend on the preferences of the customer.
The metal profile can be of two varieties:
- Decking.
- Metal tile.
The first roofing is made from galvanized steel sheet, at one of the production stages a profile is formed in the form of a rectangle or trapezoid. The height of the profile can be different, from 1 to 10 cm, which significantly affects the bearing capacity of the sheet and its strength, the roof of the metal profile also looks different. Installation of profiled sheets is carried out on a crate of boards or bars, while the roof slopes must have a slope of more than 12 degrees. According to experts, it is possible to cover the roof with a metal profile with a slope of 8-9 degrees, but on condition that thorough waterproofing is carried out at the joints.
As for the cost, for a metal profile it is lower than for a metal tile, but the decorative properties are also characterized by less potential.
The metal tile is also made on the basis of galvanized steel, but unlike the first option, it has a protective polymer coating. The profile of this material has a wave shape, which allows you to create a semblance of a classic tile. The thickness of the sheet and the height of the profile are much smaller than those of the profiled coating, but the visual appeal is higher. Convenient sheet sizes and special locks greatly simplify installation work.
Advantages of a metal profile
Due to its high practicality, the profile metal roof has gained great popularity. Especially this material has become widespread in the construction of low-rise residential buildings and country houses. In general, the metal profile can be called a universal material, as it is used for roofing, wall cladding and the construction of light buildings.
The advantages of the material include the following:
- High strength characteristics. A roof made of profile metal is able to withstand a snow layer up to 3 meters thick, even on a crate with a large step.
- customized size. Profiled sheets can have different lengths, which makes it possible to use the coating in accordance with the length of the slope. In this case, horizontal seams are completely absent, and the waterproofing properties of the coating increase.
- Ease. The weight of one sheet does not exceed 15 kg, which allows it to be mounted on a rafter frame with a sparse crate without additional reinforcement.
- Corrosion resistance. By itself, steel does not enter into oxidative reaction with air, and an additional polymer coating increases the resistance of the metal profile to corrosion.
- Fire resistant. Galvanized steel is a non-combustible roofing material, therefore, the coating can be used for buildings with a high risk of fire.
Disadvantages of metal profiled sheets
Before you cover the roof with a metal profile with your own hands, it is important to learn about its shortcomings. For metal coating characterized by high thermal conductivity and resonating ability, which can be reduced by additional insulation with appropriate materials.
In addition, a large amount of waste is generated during the installation of a metal profile, which requires the purchase of materials with a margin. This is especially true for roofs of complex shape.
How to cover the roof - the composition of the roofing cake
Covering the roof with a metal profile requires the creation of a multi-layer cake that will provide the roof with proper waterproofing, strength and thermal insulation. Each layer improves certain properties, extending the life of the coating.
Roofing cake for profiled metal coating consists of the following layers:
- Crate. This layer is a flooring of boards or bars, which are fixed directly on rafter legs perpendicular to their direction. The metal profile can be mounted on a crate, the elements of which are located at a distance of 0.6-1 m.
- Thermal insulation material. This layer is assigned the function of reducing the thermal conductivity of the metal coating and additional noise insulation. In most cases, thermal insulation is placed between the rafters.
- Vapor barrier. This type of material is able to pass air and at the same time retain water vapor. This allows you to reliably protect the insulation and wooden frame elements from water and premature destruction. The vapor barrier membrane is laid on the underside of the rafter legs.
- waterproofing material. This layer serves as protection for the rafters and thermal insulation material from the negative effects of atmospheric moisture. The material is laid on the truss frame and fixed with a construction stapler.
- Roof covering. Installation of a metal profile roof completes the selected type of roofing material. Sheets are mounted with an overlap of up to 25 cm, depending on the slope of the slopes. To fasten the canvases, special roofing screws equipped with rubber or latex seals should be used. In the process of screwing the self-tapping screw, the seal contracts and closes the hole, preventing moisture from entering.
Features of the installation of metal profiles
It is necessary to choose a lathing step for profiled steel sheets depending on the size of the sheet and its bearing capacity.
The amount of overlap of the sheets depends on the slope of the roof slopes:
- With a slope of up to 12 degrees, the overlap must be at least 25 cm, and mandatory sealing of the joints is required.
- A slope of 12-15 degrees allows you to reduce the overlap to 20 cm.
- The angle of inclination of the slopes of 15-30 degrees requires an overlap of 15-20 cm.
- The large slope of the slopes, more than 30 0, makes it possible to reduce the overlap to 10-15 cm.
Profiled metal sheet, or metal profile, is one of the most popular and sought-after materials in the construction market. They line walls, arrange roofs and even build small buildings. And it's all about the merits of this material and the ease of its installation. Let's say even more: the appearance of profiled sheets on the market has significantly expanded the construction prospects.
Now you can easily make roofs of curved and bizarre shapes, while maintaining their complete tightness. Do you want to understand everything in more detail? So, a new bright roof made of metal profile - at a minimum cost!
As a roofing material, a metal profile is wonderful. Fairly light, strong, airtight and durable. Its rich color range and the ability to achieve almost any shape make it possible to turn any designer's idea into reality.
But for all its rigidity and low weight, combined with an affordable price for many, the metal profile has a serious drawback - windage. This is an additional effort that helps the wind to tear the coating from the roof frame. Why doesn't the same thing happen with ordinary tiles? Because it consists of many individual parts, but metal profile sheets are usually large in area and at the same time light. Like a parachute.
That is why, if you cover the roof of a house with a metal profile in an area of high wind load, use high-quality fasteners and think well in advance what angle of inclination will be optimal.
The second negative is the sound of rain. Although, in fairness, it is worth noting that most owners of such a roof recognize the loud sound of drops as a minus insignificant. Yes and modern facilities soundproofing can completely solve this problem.
But not every corrugated board is suitable for roofing, but only certain brands, which are listed in this table:
Find a good supplier quality material and read our instructions in detail.
How to bend sheets for mounting an arched roof?
Let's start with what kind of roof will you do? Simple geometry, arched or complex in design? After all, with such material, everything is possible!
The arched metal profile is a demanded flexible raw material, which is mainly used for the construction of rounded or irregular shape buildings. The main advantage of building such a roof is that solid sheets are mounted, without any breaks and skates. Moreover, even with a small thickness, a bent arched metal profile is able to withstand point loads of up to 20 kg.
It will not work to make such a roof using a conventional wall profiled sheet. The thinner and cheaper the profile, the less durable it is, not to mention the low resistance to atmospheric factors. But from the carrier - easier than ever. But there is a secret in this matter: the higher the corrugation of the sheets, the more difficult it will be to bend them. Therefore, purchase almost flat sheets for this purpose.
And now - about the technology of bending the metal profile. Do not try to bend the acquired metal profile with an ordinary hammer, as "experienced" builders sometimes advise. You will only damage the coating and make it uneven. What happens in the end will be no better than a dented tin can - neither in appearance nor in practicality.
You can entrust this business to local workshops, where a fairly large automatic line is installed to give the profiled sheets the desired angle.
So, if you need to slightly bend the profiled sheet for the roof device, follow these steps:
- Step 1. Arm yourself with the usual metal corner and straight board.
- Step 2. Mark with a permanent marker on the sheet where exactly the center of the bend will be.
- Step 3. Place the corner on a flat surface, and on top of it - a metal profile.
- Step 4. Lay the board along the drawn line, press it with your feet and press on the edge so that the material begins to give in.
- Step 5. In those places where the material will swell, tap with a hammer through the bar.
- Step 6. And now repeat the same with each individual section.
- Step 7. To make the resulting angle even, after bending, gently roll it with a piece of pipe wrapped with electrical tape - so as not to damage the coating once again.
Here is the second way, more complicated:
- Step 1. Mark the line of the future bend on the sheet.
- Step 2. Lay the sheet in a straight line on the 40th corner.
- Step 3. With a steel roller with a 45° bevel, roll along the line with pressure. For each pass (and you need to do everything 5-6 times), the sheet will bend by 10-20 °.
The evenness of the rib at the exit will be much better, only the coating will be slightly damaged - just tint it.
The finished bent profile is easily attached to wooden and tubular frames using a manual screwdriver:
How to cut sheets to the desired size?
The metal profile can and should be cut out for complex sections of the roof. But how? That's where a lot of different subtleties and nuances. And it's all about the complex structure of the metal profile, which, unlike an ordinary sheet of metal, is a whole “layer cake”: a metal base, protective and decorative layers. That's just the destruction of the latter leads to corrosion and a significant reduction in the service life of the coating. That is why you need to cut the metal profile correctly, and how exactly - we will now tell you in detail.
Here are the traditional tools that are most often used for this purpose:
What is most afraid of such roofing material? heating! And when cutting with abrasive wheels in a high-speed tool, this is exactly what happens, and all the layers at the cut point burn. The width of the damaged area reaches 3-5 mm, which is quite noticeable, which is why the so-called "edge corrosion" occurs.
Why can't you cut with a grinder?
Most often, such material is cut with ordinary metal scissors, and the use of a grinder is not recommended, which also cuts unevenly. The second danger is sparks flying out from under the abrasive tool. Them heat(like a fire) damages the polymer coating even tens of centimeters from the place of cuts.
Therefore, if you already have to cut the metal profile with a grinder, then replace abrasive wheel on the cut-off, although it is not the most the best way. There will still be damage, just less.
But do not use a grinder with a diamond disc, which allegedly heats the metal profile less: this material will produce large burrs. All the advantages of working with this tool are only in its durability.
Working with hand scissors
And for fitting profiled sheets of small thickness, ordinary manual sheet metal shears or special electric shears for working with metal profiles are more suitable for you. Modern market produces three types of them:
- Cutting.
- Knife.
- Slotted, with a special head for an accurate cut without deformation.
Also convenient for cutting metal profiles are the so-called nibblers. Their trick is that they cut the metal profile along two parallel straight lines at once, and the sheet no longer bends. In addition, thanks to the rotation of the holder, it is possible to cut the profile at right angles without any burrs. But such a tool, of course, is not cheap.
Therefore, if you are working on your own object and it makes no sense for you to spend money on expensive roofing equipment, use the most common nozzle on a cordless drill, which is good for fitting metal profiles in hard-to-reach places.
Using an electric saw
Many experienced builders also prefer to use electric saw, for the sake of maximum preservation of the quality of the roofing material. In addition, this tool has more advantages:
- doubled more speed cutting sheets due to the ease of working with the tool.
- Almost twice the speed of the saw. Due to this, the metal does not melt, but is cut out with small sawdust.
It is only important to carefully use an electric saw, because. small metal chips can scratch the skin. That is why, if you are new to this business, and you only need to cut a couple of sheets, get a regular classic cutting tool. This hand saw for metal, easy to use and absolutely safe for humans.
Jigsaw for curved cuts
But if you need to make curved cutouts of the desired shape, you will need a jigsaw. Typically, such work is necessary when installing the coating in places where smoke and ventilation pipes. In principle, there is nothing complicated, you just need to carefully and in advance make an accurate marking of the cutout on the sheet. The disadvantage of using a jigsaw is that it makes sense to use it only on those sheets whose profile height does not exceed 20 mm - otherwise the metal will simply tear.
Handling accidental damage
After cutting the sheets, immediately collect the resulting sawdust and take it to the disposal. If left, these crumbs in the rain will begin to rust, infecting a quality roof with corrosion. A year or two, and the appearance of the roof of your house will be hopelessly damaged.
If scratches on the sheet could not be avoided, you will have to deal with them. Perfect option– just tint in the same color. And therefore, even before the start of roofing work, get a cylinder with paint of the same shade.
The market also offers a new high-precision roofing tool MP. It is made of high-quality steel, does not need frequent sharpening, is convenient, and accurately and quickly cuts the desired shape from the metal profile.
And finally. The profiled sheet weighs a lot, and therefore do its adjustment right at the construction site. And remember the standards: the minimum length of the sheet should be 45 cm, and the maximum - 7 meters.
Installation of a metal profile roof: step by step
Well, here is the material purchased, cut, bent and ready for installation. Now a careful drawing of your roof, and mark out sketches of future sheets on it. Such a layout is simply necessary in order to use the available material as efficiently as possible.
Stage I. Preparation of sheets for installation
So, start the installation from the ground. Arrange the sheets in separate piles - for each slope. Work in protective gloves, and when moving the sheets themselves, hold the edge of the stamping line. If there is wind on such days, watch the sheets - they can easily be torn off even from the ground.
Stage II. Sheathing and waterproofing
Next, install the crate under the metal profile. The vertical step of the boards should be from 0.5 meters to 1 meter, and the horizontal step should be half as much, from 25 cm to 50 cm. And there are some subtleties here: the more boards go to the crate, the higher the noise-insulating qualities of the roof will be. Wood is capable of absorbing sounds.
And if later a valley is installed, then before installing the metal profile, lay the strips with an internal angle.
Stage III. Purchase of self-tapping screws for metal profiles
Now let's deal with the mount. Self-tapping screws with a press washer are traditionally used for fastening a metal profile for the purpose of facing facades or when internal works, but only those that have special artificial rubber seals are suitable for roofing installation. This modification allows the maximum sealing of the places where the sheets are attached to the crate, and rainwater no longer gets under the roof.
The screws for the metal profile themselves are rods with a head and a sharp thread. They are made with a special EPDM gasket, which additionally seals the holes and prevents corrosion.
Also, special roofing screws for metal profiles are distinguished by the presence of a special drill tip, thanks to which it is enough to arm yourself with just a screwdriver for work. Minimum fastening operations, minimum labor costs - and at the same time high work efficiency:
All these self-tapping screws are produced with a ready-made colorful coating to make them invisible against the background of the entire roof. And do not take the cheapest self-tapping screws. The fact is that the requirements for these fasteners are serious!
Stocked up the right amount self-tapping screws? Then let's move on.
Stage IV. Installation of roofing sheets
Before starting the installation of the metal profile, first install the cornice strip, and fix it with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm.
Prepare everything you need for work, and lift the sheets onto the roof with the help of board guides. Next, start the installation of a metal profile roof from the bottom left, gradually filling the rows and moving towards the ridge. Place each next sheet under the last wave of the previous one. Fix the sheets with screws near the very joints:
Fix the metal profile with roofing screws with a protective coating of the same color. Standard dimensions are 4.8x28 mm. Screw them in perpendicular to the laid battens until the EPDM gasket is slightly compressed. How to under-twist, and it is impossible to compress more strongly. The lowest row of the metal profile should protrude 4 cm beyond the roof eaves, and each top row should cover the bottom one by 20 cm.
Screw the screws themselves only into concave waves in order to fix the roofing material well:
Stage V. Installation of the ridge and additional elements
After the profile sheets are laid, install the upper valley bar at the internal joints - this way you will close the bumps. And install the end strips on top of the wave of sheets and fix with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm.
When proceeding with the installation of the roof ridge, first lay a protective gasket under it and secure it with nails. You need to fasten the ridge strips through the wave of the sheet, and make an overlap of 10-20 cm. Fasten ridge plugs at the ends of the ridge so that moisture does not get under the ridge.
Now we are working with the chimney. For him, traditionally make slats adjoining to roofing material, or purchase ready-made ones, which usually go standard size(as well as the chimney itself).
Remove steel shavings and all remaining debris from such a roof with a soft-bristled brush so as not to damage the coating with small scratches.
A couple of months after the installation is completed, check the strength of the fastening screws. Found shattered? Pull them again, and the metal profile roof can be considered completely finished.
The installation technique for the special profiled sheet used for roofing is relatively simple. To master it, it is quite enough to get acquainted with some features of the material used, as well as with the basic rules for handling it.
Before you cover the roof with a metal profile with your own hands, you need to carry out a number of preparatory operations of the following nature:
- determine the angle of inclination of the future roof;
- choose the right brand of profiled sheet blanks for the selected angle of inclination;
- prepare fasteners corresponding to the selected material.
Labor intensity installation work increases significantly in the case of the construction of roofs of complex configuration.
Types and grades of sheet material
At the initial stage preparatory work you need to choose the type of profile sheet that suits your conditions, which can have the following versions:
- Grade "C" material, which is a sheet of a sinusoidal (trapezoidal) profile with a wave height of 8 to 44 mm, which is usually used for the construction of light roofs or as decorative wall cladding.
- Sheets of the brand "NS" with a fixed wave height of 35 or 44 mm, used for arranging typical roofing.
- Sheet material of grade "H" with a height of a wavy profile from 57 to 114 mm, reinforced with stiffeners, which allows it to be used for covering solid roofs.
Before installing the roofing, you should familiarize yourself with how to choose the right amount of overlap between adjacent sheets, which depends on the angle of inclination of the roof itself. In this case, the following relations are valid:
- at an angle of inclination within 12–15 degrees, the overlap should be at least 20 cm;
- with a slope of the base of the roof of 15–30 degrees, this figure can be reduced to values of 15–20 cm;
- in the case of an inclination angle of more than 30 degrees, the overlap is selected in the range from 10 to 15 cm;
- at angles of inclination of the base less than 12 degrees, sealing of horizontal and vertical seams formed in the overlapping areas is mandatory. As a rule, ordinary silicone sealant is used for these purposes.
Preparatory activities
Before closing the roof with a metal profile, it will be necessary to take care of the arrangement of waterproofing, which protects the wooden structural elements and insulation from the damaging effects of moisture. Waterproofing, which, as a rule, is used as a thick plastic film, is attached directly between the rafters using small building brackets. At the joining points of adjacent strips of film, a slight overlap is made (about 15 cm).
Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the protective waterproofing film should be stretched with a slight sag (about 2 cm), and between it and the insulation material there should be a small gap of about 2–3 mm.
Special ventilation slats are mounted on top of the waterproofing layer, creating conditions for air circulation in the free spaces under the crate and excluding the possibility of accumulation of unwanted wet fumes in this place.
For the installation of metal profile blanks, a special crate should be used, providing the required strength of the roof structure and resisting its breaking or deflection under the influence of wind loads or under the weight of snowfall.
Roofing manufacturers metal products indicate the main parameters and the procedure for arranging the crate for them in the instructions attached to the product. That is why, before starting work, it is recommended that you carefully study all the instructions for using the purchased material.
At the end of the installation of the crate, a special end board is nailed to its pitched cut, the width of which must correspond to the height of the selected roofing profile.
Thus, the general composition of the roofing, the final layer of which is the metal profile itself, usually looks like this:
- internal facing layer, for example, made of drywall;
- ceiling slats used as an internal crate;
- vapor barrier protective film;
- slabs of insulating material placed in niches between the rafter legs;
- waterproofing protective coating, which excludes the possibility of accumulation of moisture in the area where the insulation is located;
- special ventilation gap;
- outer crate;
- the coating itself (metal profile).
Mounting order
Laying of roofing sheets with overlap corresponding to the angle of inclination should be carried out starting from the lower corner of the blood. In this case, the following sequence of installation must be observed:
- the first sheet is located on the roof in such a way that its lower cut protrudes 3-4 cm beyond the overhang;
- then this sheet is baited with special self-tapping screws with rubber seals screwed into pre-prepared holes located at the bottom of the wave;
- at the same time, each subsequent overlapped sheet is aligned along the edge of the previous one, and then it is also baited;
- after the formation of a row of 3–4 sheet blanks, the latter are finally fixed on the crate;
- the second and all subsequent rows of the coating are mounted in the same way (taking into account the overlap indicated in the instructions with the previous row).
Sheets are attached to the crate every second wave.
In the course of work, it should always be remembered that it is only allowed to move along the finally fixed workpieces. In this case, the feet should be placed in the recesses of the waves, based on the elements of the crate.
Video
On the features of the installation of corrugated board, see the video below:
