What material is better to insulate the house outside. What is the best way to insulate the house from the outside and how to do it yourself? I want to insulate my house

How to insulate a house can be learned from many sources, construction teams Those who specialize in this will also tell a lot of things in detail. But all this - thermal insulation according to the rules - requires a lot of money.

It is often necessary to insulate old house or country house perhaps not so durable, and not very beautiful, but as cheaply and quickly as possible. The cheapest insulation, by the way, from natural materials, which were used by grandfathers ...

Cheap home insulation does not mean poor quality

You need to decide how much to insulate the house. For example, to make it a little warmer, or noticeably warmer, or still insulate so that heating costs 3 times cheaper (for example), and in winter the temperature inside rises to +25 degrees without voltage from the heating side. Those. thermal insulation measures will turn out to be economically feasible, they will quickly pay off.

It is advantageous to insulate according to the last option, i.e. most qualitatively. And half-hearted decisions are a waste of time, effort and resources.

Therefore, you will have to forget about any old blankets, bedding, penofols 5 mm thick as a heater. The thickness of the insulation should be measured in tens of centimeters, then it will be warm, and saving on energy resources will “inflate your pocket”.

But how to insulate a house at the same time extremely cheaply? If you buy cotton wool insulation in hypermarkets, then it will not work out cheaply, if you change windows and doors, it will turn out even more expensive. Let's try to make sure that the insulation is the most inexpensive.

Everything that opens and is transparent should be sealed and insulated first

The lion's share of heat can escape through windows and doors due to cracks and drafts. Home insulation should begin with the installation of seals where something opens. Now it is not problematic to choose a sealant on an adhesive basis.

It is possible that the gaps are simply in the frames, loot or along their perimeter. Then all of them need to be clogged with a sealant or in combination with a fabric, and from the side of the street too.

Very often there are gaps in the places where the glasses fit to the frames. Scotch tape will not help much here, although you can use it. But it is better to take out the glass and put them on the sealant.

New windows and doors are the best solution

The question of windows and doors is the basis of heat preservation. best way out- insert modern frames with double-glazed windows, but this action will be the most expensive.

You need to think about which of the windows can be covered with plastic wrap from the outside for the winter so that the illumination and visibility to the street do not suffer much. A “home-made double-glazed window” is obtained from the film, if it is stretched 1.5 - 2 cm from the glass, and at the same time the docking with the frame is sealed. To help - glazing beads, small nails, possibly sealant, after which heat leakage through this window will be reduced significantly.

Old doors, especially metal ones, are a serious bridge of cold (a place where heat leaves the house). And if the contour of the door is already sealed, then it remains just to stick 5 cm of dense foam on top of the canvas. IN last resort, nail a wadded blanket or felt from 3 cm thick.

Natural heat insulators can be stored on the floor

You should not grab the wall insulation if the issue with attic floor and floors. The walls are not so decisive, and besides, they will not work cheaply. And on a horizontal surface, you can put any insulation.

In order to insulate the ceiling and floors as cheaply as possible, it remains to collect fallen leaves from the entire area, and also, if possible, straw and hay.

But these organic materials need to be mixed with loose lime to prevent biological degradation and reduce rodent cravings to settle in such a comfortable environment. However, it is no secret that the hayloft in the attic has been used since ancient times as ...

Inexpensive - foam for the attic

In the attic, you need to store a layer of natural insulation at least 35 cm thick to get the effect. Can it be replaced? Yes, it is cheapest to replace with foam with a layer of 15 cm or more for a temperate climate.

You can use the cheapest, lowest density. But you need to lay it in several layers, with the seams between the sheets in the layers offset, so that there are no cold bridges along the cracks. If you cover the foam with plywood, and then with a board, then you can walk on it ...

When insulating the ceiling of a house, a vapor barrier is needed. Otherwise, we run the risk of wetting the insulation, even polystyrene, because the steam will condense just inside its layer. Therefore, first of all, the attic must be covered with continuous plastic wrap. The same goes for any layer in the attic.

Placement of a heat insulator for the floor

Performing work on the floors is fundamentally no different from the ceiling. First, a vapor barrier from the side of the house, then 10 cm of foam or 25 cm of natural insulation. But how do you place it all?

Insulation of finished floors depends entirely on their design. The low underground is filled with insulation on waterproofed soil. Otherwise, the insulation is placed between the lag on the shields, ventilated from below, and from the side of the house it is insulated by water vapor.

If it is not possible to open the floors, then it remains only to lay something on top of the existing wooden floors. Then do a double floor? But it will cost more. Rags won't help. Even felt 1 cm thick will help little. But in a hopeless situation, this applies.

The cheapest and easiest way is to simply lay polyethylene on the existing floor, then the same foam plastic but with an increased density of 30 kg / m 3 cube 5 cm thick in two layers with bandaging of the seams, and simply put a platform of boards docked with a tenon-groove on it. But at the same time, the lower old floor will quickly soak, especially if the ventilation from below is poor ...

If the loss of the height of the room when laying a new layer on the floor is not acceptable, then it may still be worth doing a thorough floor insulation from the underground, at least in one room to begin with ...?

What is a heap?

Why did they make a pile? At least a quarter of the heat leaving the house was saved by piles - stored hay, straw, under the boards around the perimeter of the house. This reduced heat loss through the walls, foundation and floors of the house. Now the litter can be partially replaced by a blind area insulated with extruded polystyrene foam.

Thermal insulation of the earth around the house and the foundation itself is not only a reduction in heat loss, but also measures aimed at the safety of the house, increasing its durability. More information about measures against soil heaving can be found on these pages.

It remains to insulate the walls, but how?

If it's about wooden house, then the walls are most likely not worth insulating. 20 cm of dry wood is equivalent in terms of thermal insulation to 5 cm of Styrofoam. Almost the norm for walls in temperate climates. But if the walls are stone, brick, reinforced concrete, then you need to insulate.

The problem is that it won’t work cheap with walls - you need modern insulation, which must be fixed to a vertical surface and protected from atmospheric influences. The insulation should be more vapor-transparent than the wall, therefore, for wood, foam concrete, mineral wool is needed, and for brick, concrete, ordinary foam can also be used.

You can insulate the walls yourself, so you will only have to spend money on materials. If you take your time, you can insulate the walls and more than one season. But you need to do it with high quality, with the observance of technology.

How the walls of the house are thermally insulated can be found on this resource. Here, for example, we recall the key points on how to inexpensively cover the wall with foam.

Styrofoam wall fencing sequence

A short review about inexpensive home insulation provides only primary knowledge about the technologies used. In the course of the work, many questions will appear, which cannot be considered in one article. You need to know that thermal insulation measures in themselves are not complicated, so you can take on the matter yourself, which means saving at least half of the cash costs.

After the introduction of a new standard for the thermal protection of buildings, insulation has become relevant even for those houses that were previously considered “safe”. Owners of older buildings can do nothing but be prepared to pay rising energy bills. And the projects of new houses will not be approved if they do not meet the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003. There are several technologies that allow you to provide regulatory performance for buildings from any materials. The main thing is to choose the right insulation for the walls of the house outside in each case.

The house must be kept warm

Why external insulation, and not internal

The most understandable argument for a non-specialist sounds very convincing, although this is a secondary factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the usable volume of residential and office premises.

Builders are guided by the standard, according to which the insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Warming from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can be carried out only in exceptional cases. For example, when it is impossible to carry out work outside due to structural features or the facade “belongs” to the house, which belongs to architectural monuments.

Video description

The result of proper internal insulation of the house on the video:

Internal wall insulation is allowed provided that a durable and continuous vapor-tight layer is created from the side of the room. But this is not easy to do, and if warm air with water vapor gets into the insulation or onto the surface of a cold wall, then condensation is inevitable. And the reason for this is the “dew point”, which will move either inside the layer of heat-insulating material, or to the border between it and the wall.

Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against wetting the wall - water vapor will find a “way” at the joints of the film and attachment points

That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the vast majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory guidelines- outside.

Popular thermal insulation materials

From a large list of thermal insulation materials, several of the most popular and those that are used if the budget allows or for other reasons can be distinguished. Traditionally, the popularity of materials is determined by a combination of good thermal insulation characteristics and relatively low cost.

Styrofoam

Better known as "styrofoam". To be precise, in addition to plates, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.

Its thermal conductivity depends on density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. Popularity is explained by availability, ease of installation, good compressive strength, low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, quite durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.

Styrofoam is considered low-flammable, and with the marking PSB-S - self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But in case of fire, it emits toxic gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on the use of "breathable" materials for insulating walls.

Insulation of the wall of the house from the outside with foam

Extruded polystyrene foam

It differs from polystyrene in a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the same polystyrene granules serve as raw materials. In some respects, it surpasses its "relative". It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), an average of 20-30% lower thermal conductivity (table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), several times lower vapor permeability and higher compressive strength. Thanks to this set of qualities, it best material when insulating the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the "zero" floor. The disadvantages of EPPS are the same as those of polystyrene, and it costs more.

XPS is usually made "colored"

Stone, she is basalt, cotton wool

This is a subspecies of mineral wool, the raw material of which is rocks of stone (most often basalt). A completely different type of thermal insulation material, the low thermal conductivity of which is ensured by the fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam plastic and EPPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn and does not smolder (combustibility class NG). Refers to "breathable" materials - according to the new standard, this sounds like low "breathing resistance".

Mineral wool mats for wall insulation should be "hard"

But there are other materials for warming the house from the outside, which, although they are used less often, have their own advantages.

Thermal insulation materials - novelties on the market

Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are slightly more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.

Foamed polyurethane

A common polymeric material for "household purposes". Also well known as furniture foam (in the form of "soft" mats) or as a gap-filling foam. When insulating, it is also used in the form of plates or sprayed insulation.

Polyurethane foam boards have low tear holding capacity, so it is not used in wet facade systems.

But it's common thermal insulation material for the manufacture of sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. Such a panel is a heat-insulating plate with a decorative layer already applied at the factory (clinker tiles or stone chips). Two types of insulation: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second - three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as the supporting base). Two mounting options: on dowels / anchors ( open method) or on your concealed fixing system.

Three-layer thermal panel

Sprayed polyurethane foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, there was the only technology for applying such a layer - using professional installations working with a two-component composition (mixing occurs during spraying).

PPU spraying on the basement of the house

Now in Russia, for domestic use, the production of one-component polyurethane foam has been launched, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As the manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), do-it-yourself insulation of 1 m2 is much cheaper than when concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises using professional equipment. And this option than to insulate the house from the outside is quite attractive, if literally 2-3 cm of the heat-insulating layer is missing.

Insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam "Teplis"

Ecowool

Relatively new thermal insulation material. The technology of insulation of enclosing surfaces is based on cellulose fiber material, which is applied to the walls using a special installation. There are two options for insulation: filling the plane between the wall and the cladding, spraying with an adhesive binder on the wall with the crate installed (and subsequent installation of facade panels).

Of the traditional materials, glass wool (a subspecies of mineral wool) can be mentioned, but due to fragility and the formation of the smallest “dust” with sharp edges during installation, it was replaced by stone wool safe both during installation and operation.

The better to insulate the house from the outside - standards for the number of layers

If you follow the regulatory documents, there are two options for insulating a house from the outside in terms of the number of structural and heat-insulating layers: two-layer and three-layer. Moreover, in the second case, the exterior paneling or plaster is not considered an independent layer, although their thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, the structural material acts as the outer (third) layer.

Brick cladding with insulation

In addition to this classification, there is also a division according to the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.

brickwork, reinforced concrete (with flexible connections), expanded clay concrete - all types of solutions;
wooden houses - enclosing structures with two-layer, three-layer walls and with a ventilated air gap;
frame houses with thin sheet sheathing - three-layer walls with thermal insulation in the middle, as well as with ventilated and non-ventilated air gap;
cellular concrete blocks - two-layer walls with brick cladding, as well as with a ventilated or non-ventilated layer.

In practice, for the insulation of low-rise buildings, such a variety of solutions comes down to a choice between a “wet” or hinged facade. Although it is recommended by the standard that are considered as heat-insulating materials - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (as an alternative - XPS).

But each case has its own preferences.

Video description

Clearly about the choice of how to insulate the house from the outside in the video:

The better to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the material of the walls

There are no restrictions on the choice of technology for insulating a brick house. Different variants can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:

Facing brick. This is a classic three-layer wall construction on flexible ties. Even using expanded polystyrene, a ventilated air gap is provided for weathering water vapor and preventing wall materials from getting wet.
Wet facade. You can use mineral wool and polystyrene foam. The first option is preferable ceramic brick vapor permeability is higher than that of foam. And according to paragraph 8.5 of SP 23-101-2004, the arrangement of layers should contribute to the weathering of water vapor in order to prevent the accumulation of moisture.

Wet facade scheme

Ventilated facade. With cladding with wall panels or large-format porcelain stoneware along the crate. Insulation is traditional for all hinged facades - mineral wool.

Scheme of a ventilated facade

Wooden houses (log or timber) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using the hinged facade technology.

For them, you can find examples of the use of expanded polystyrene and plaster using the "wet facade" method. In this case, a ventilated gap is made between the wall and the foam plates using a remote crate. Although this loses the main advantage of the "wet facade" - the simplicity of design and installation.

How to calculate the thickness of the insulation

If you “flip through” offhand SP23-101-2004 or similar in content, but a later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that it is not so easy to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

Each building is "individual". During the development of the project and its approval, such a thermal calculation is done by specialists. And here a whole range of parameters is taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, the duration of the heated season, the average number of sunny days), the type and area of glazing at home, heat capacity floor covering, thermal insulation of the roof and basement. Even the number of metal bonds between the wall and the cladding matters.

But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new norms introduced in 2003 are much tougher than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters of the “standard thickness” of insulation - 50, 100 and 150 mm. And there is no need for precision calculations. There is such a scheme, which shows the equivalent dimensions of the thickness different materials(in average form), the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.

Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation

And then it's simple. They take the thickness of the wall from a certain material, see how much is missing from the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the wall of the house from the outside should be added. Taking into account that the wet facade has another layer of plaster, and the ventilated facade has an air gap, plus interior decoration facade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.

And the question of roof insulation, floors and choice good windows decide separately.

Even easier - use one of the many online calculators. The figure here, of course, is approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard insulation thickness, it will give the required result.

How to properly install insulation on the facade

Before installation, the facade must be prepared: cleaned of old finishes, removed dirt and dust, dismantled hinged elements engineering systems, remove ebbs and visors (you still have to change to wider ones), remove signs, signs and facade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - cracks and chips should be repaired, crumbling areas should be cleaned, a deep penetration primer should be applied.

Applying a primer

For secure fastening of Styrofoam or rigid mineral wool mats in the system wet facade the surface of the wall should be as even as the unevenness can be leveled with adhesive. With a height difference of up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation slab, with irregularities from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of "cakes" on 40% of the slab surface.

The first row of plates is mounted with emphasis on the starting bar, which also sets the horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are set with a shift of the vertical seam (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the plates do not intersect in their corners. Each plate is additionally fixed with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.

The surface of the plates before applying the plaster is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of the layer of adhesive solution with a total thickness of 5-6 mm.

The density of expanded polystyrene is chosen equal to 25-35 kg/m3.

Video description

Visually about the insulation of mineral wool in the video:

Mineral wool mats of Russian brands for the “wet facade” system must comply with index 175, imported ones must be labeled “facade” and have a density above 125 kg / m3.

Attention. In the "wet facade" system, the insulation is mounted in only one (!) layer. The vertical surface of two layers of “soft” slabs loaded with plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not be deluded by the arguments that the second layer of plates overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates "cold bridges".

Rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg/m3 or more are used in the ventilated facade. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after they are attached to the crate, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.

The step of laying out the crate is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to fastening to the crate, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.

The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be in the range of 60-150 mm.

Important. Size 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air gaps.

For ventilation of the layer in the cladding, inlets are arranged in the area of \u200b\u200bthe basement and outlets - under the roof eaves. The total area of the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 of the wall.

Ventilation grilles in the wall

As a result - is it worth it to insulate

Home insulation is a profitable investment even in the short term. Invested funds will quickly pay off due to lower heating and air conditioning costs.

Our website also lists companies specializing in facade and finishing materials, which are presented at the exhibition of houses Low-rise Country.

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside must be decided before starting work. After all, there are several materials and they are different not only in their composition, but also in the fastening system. And the better to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, we will consider below.

External insulation performs an important protective function and has several advantages:

The most important plus of external thermal insulation- no freezing. When the house is insulated from the inside, the walls are not protected from freezing and hypothermia. In cold walls, heat loss occurs faster.
Increasing the strength of structures made according to frame technology . At internal insulation in structures of this type, there is a constant accumulation of condensate, which contributes to their gradual destruction.
No extra pressure on bearing walls and foundation.
The dew point is the accumulation of steam. It is located in the outer insulation layer, which eliminates condensation. Insulation, having vapor-permeable properties, lets condensate out. With internal insulation in the wall, from the side of the room, moisture accumulates, creating a favorable environment for the appearance of fungi, mold and freezing of the walls.
The walls are protected from the cold and the heat is kept inside them for a long time.. His losses are minimal.
External thermal insulation has such an important property as high-quality sound insulation. An aspect insignificant for suburban real estate is important when insulating houses and buildings located on noisy city streets.

Types of insulation

In the manufacture of plates for thermal insulation are used various materials with thermal insulation properties. As a heat-insulating material, slabs of foam plastic and mineral wool are most in demand. Qualitative characteristics plates should be the main selection criterion when buying insulation.

Mineral wool

If you are thinking about the best way to insulate a facade wall, then you should immediately pay attention to mineral wool (see How to insulate walls from the outside with mineral wool). These are boards made up of various fibres. The thickness of the material is usually 5-10 cm.

For work surfaces of a large area, mineral wool mats are produced. Ease of installation and a number of advantages provide a high demand for insulation.

Mineral wool does not burn, has moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, soundproofing properties, is not subject to external influences.

Depending on the material on the basis of which the insulation board is created, its types are classified.

Types of mineral wool:

Mineral wool stone

The material for the manufacture of this type of mineral wool is molten rocks: basalt, clay or limestone. Stone wool does not burn, does not rot, withstands large temperature differences. Its porous surface has excellent "breathing" properties.

Made from natural material the stove is a natural, environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit toxins.

Mineral wool slag

It is made from metallurgical waste - molten slags. The thinnest fibers at the base of the material give it a resemblance to felt. It has high thermal insulation properties, does not burn, and passes steam condensates well.

fiberglass mineral wool

The material made on the basis of glass chips is resistant to high temperatures. Like other types of mineral wool, it does not burn, does not absorb moisture, is not susceptible to damage, has "breathing" properties and is easy to install. Glass wool contains the smallest glass dust, so care must be taken precautions to avoid contact with skin and mucous membranes.

Styrofoam board

If you are thinking about how to insulate aerated concrete walls, then this material is completely suitable:

It consists of small spherical or cellular granules with hydrophobic properties.
In the manufacture of foam plastic, a high temperature effect on the granules contributes to the formation of a single structure.
The lowest price in the niche of heat-insulating materials and easy installation during the insulation process provided expanded polystyrene with great popularity (see Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the outside with expanded polystyrene).
Plates are made with a thickness of 5 to 15 cm and you can carry out insulation without taking away a lot of usable area.

Peculiarities:

A styrofoam board consists almost entirely of air trapped in the micropores of the granules. This is due to the light weight of the material.
There are 2 types of foam: expanded, from larger granules round shape, and extruded, from small cells. For external insulation of the walls of the house, the first option is preferable. Extruded polystyrene foam has a finer structure and is used mainly for insulating non-residential premises and household buildings.
When erecting a heat-insulating structure from expanded polystyrene foam, it is necessary to apply additional lining to the insulated surface or apply plaster (polystyrene under the influence of high temperature may release toxins).

Technologies for external thermal insulation

Before insulating the walls of the house, you need to think about how to do it. After all, the fastening of the material and the subsequent finishing are of great importance.

If this is the entrance wall, then it is stupid to talk about mineral wool. After all, it will still need to be revetted. But the foam is suitable, it is enough to plaster it.

External thermal insulation is of 2 types:

Bonded thermal insulation;
Hinged ventilated facade.

The first, the method of monolithic bonding of heat-insulating material, is most in demand. This type of thermal insulation is easy to do with your own hands, while the complex technology of a hinged facade requires a qualified approach and high costs.

Benefits of monolithic bonding

The method of monolithic-bonded insulation requires positive air temperature, above 5°C. Therefore, work on insulation in this way is seasonal. popular in Western countries method of thermal insulation is becoming popular in Russia.

Energy efficiency: a significant reduction in heat loss through monolithic walls reduces heating costs.
A monolithic heat-insulating shield reliably protects the walls from cold, wind, and moisture. A single enclosing structure eliminates the appearance of "cold bridges". The simplicity of the design allows, if necessary, to easily dismantle the layers of thermal insulation.
The light weight of insulating materials does not put additional pressure on the foundation.
Installation of bonded thermal insulation is possible on surfaces made of any material (blocks, bricks, panels, frame).
The use of non-combustible types of insulation ensures the durability of the structure.

For the effectiveness of external insulation by the method of bonded thermal insulation, it is necessary to comply with the technology. The quality of the insulating material also matters. The most commonly used foam, mineral wool or glass wool. When choosing polystyrene, one must take into account its flammability, although manufacturers began to produce non-combustible types of polystyrene foam.

Bonded thermal insulation with polystyrene boards

This mounting method depends on the material used.

If we are talking about mineral wool, guide aluminum profiles and additional fasteners are needed.
Expanded polystyrene is fastened with special glue and dowels. The plates are glued to the wall, and the dowels provide additional fixation.
Dowels must withstand the load of the entire structure and strong gusts of wind.

Attention: Special dowels for mounting thermal insulation have a large cap diameter, 5 cm or more. For fixing polystyrene foam plates, 2 types of dowels are used: regular (5 cm) and elongated (9 cm).

For external thermal insulation, it is necessary to choose expanded polystyrene with fire-resistant characteristics.

Method of external bonded thermal insulation:

Special glue is applied to the surface in a continuous layer, according to the size of one foam plate.
The foam is pressed against the wall with adhesive applied with force and held for better adhesion for a short period of time.
Excess glue from under the foam plate is distributed under the neighboring ones. This contributes to additional bonding of the joints.
The joints of the plates are filled mounting foam or small pieces of polyurethane foam.
The corner joints of the insulation sheets are fixed with dowels. The joints on the surface of the plates, together with the caps of the dowels, are smeared with a mastic composition. You should get a single monolithic layer of heat-insulating material.
The next stage is the installation of a reinforcing mesh, which is fastened to the surface of the plates with glue. To create a continuous reinforced area, overlapping mesh is used.
After complete drying, the resulting heat-insulating layer is leveled for further decorative cladding.
Application of decorative plaster.
The final stage is painting with paint intended for outdoor use. Paint and plaster must be resistant to environmental influences.

External thermal insulation with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam (PPU) involves spraying the composition onto the wall. The polymer layer, solidifying, provides reliable thermal insulation and a monolithic, even surface. The heat-insulating composition is being prepared immediately before work.

Perspective modern method insulation has a number of advantages:

High adhesive properties, instant strong bond with any kind of surface;
Seamless technology increases the thermal inertia of the walls, providing additional strength;
Polyurethane foam (see Insulate the wall with polyurethane from the outside - how to make the right construction), applied with a layer of 5 mm, is not inferior in thermal insulation properties to a 15 cm thick mineral wool slab or 10 cm foam;
The plasticity of the polymer material ensures quick application and the absence of gaps, seams;
High moisture-repellent and sound-proof properties;
The tightness of the applied layer does not require additional protection vapor barrier and windproof material;
The light weight of the applied polymer does not exert a load on the load-bearing walls and foundation;
Fast application;
The polymer composition does not emit toxic substances.

Attention: If the question is how to insulate the wall before wallpapering, then this material comes first.

Working with polyurethane foam involves careful spraying and protection of other surfaces with a covering material. When frozen, it is almost impossible to remove.

The prepared mixture is applied using special equipment, in which 2 polymer compositions are mixed under high temperature exposure. The mass brought to the state of foam is sprayed onto the insulated wall through a special sleeve.

This thermal insulation includes the following steps:

Preparatory stage. The surface of the wall must be cleaned of dirt, dust, previous coating. Any foreign particles on the wall will reduce the bonding factor.
Spraying of the polymer composition. The plasticity of the polymer allows you to level the walls, filling the cavities. The thickness of the polymer layer depends on the feed power. You can adjust it with the spray gun.
Laying a reinforcing layer (fiberglass mesh is excellent). It is recommended to apply a layer of screed with a thickness of more than 6 cm.
Decorative cladding with finishing materials (paint, siding, block house).

Warm plaster for external thermal insulation

This type of plaster is different from the usual cement mortar its composition: in addition to cement, it includes particles of a heat-insulating filler: granulated polystyrene foam, crushed volcanic glass, a mixture of sawdust with paper or foamed vermiculite.

The porous structure of the plaster gives it "breathing" properties. For external insulation of facades, plaster with foam plastic granules or expanded clay chips is suitable. The sawdust base of the plaster is only suitable for interior work.
The composition must have high thermal conductivity, air permeability, pass steam condensate well and repel moisture.
Warm plaster has a plastic texture and is easy to apply without requiring additional alignment. Reinforcing mesh can be omitted. It is applied like regular plaster. Sanding or putty will provide a perfectly flat surface.
Plaster with thermal insulation properties is well bonded to any wall material, has a "breathing" surface.

Warm plaster matches high requirements applied to heat-insulating materials.

Plaster properties:

Low thermal conductivity;
Vapor-permeable and hydrophobic properties;
breathability;
Durability;
Resistance to external influences and decomposition;
incombustibility;
Absence of toxic substances.

Where to apply warm plaster:

Plaster is used for exterior cladding, insulated with it window slopes, cover the connecting seams, cracks.
Easy application does not require additional correction. Properties such as resistance to external influences, strong bonding to the base, allow it to be used on any surface.
The mixture is applied in the same way as ordinary plaster. After complete drying, the surface can be sanded.

External thermal insulation of wooden houses

In suburban construction, wood is often used as a material for building walls. This is explained by naturalness and safety from the point of view of ecology.

Attention: External insulation of wooden walls is possible with the use of technologies that provide ventilation. To protect wooden walls from decay, a ventilation gap is required.

As a heater for wooden structures most preferred are expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. The choice is due to the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material, high rates of vapor permeability, fire resistance, the ability to remove moisture and ease of installation.

The heat-insulating structure of wooden walls is a multilayer "pie":

Interior decoration;
Bearing wall made of wood;
vapor barrier film;
Insulation plate (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene);
windproof material;
ventilation gap;
External cladding with finishing material.

The process of insulating wooden walls:

Training wooden surface. At this stage, the wooden wall is treated with a special antiseptic solution and fire retardant impregnation. Slots are filled with mounting foam or caulked. For caulking, you can use tow, felt, or a special wood sealant.
Fastening on the wall with strips, overlapping, vapor barrier material. The joints are sealed with sealing tape.

Lathing installation. The crate is made from bars prepared and treated with an antiseptic. The thickness of the insulation board should be 20% of the guide rail width. In other words, the crate should protrude above the insulation layer. The distance between the guide bars is aligned along the width of the plate.

The crate is filled with slabs. Additional fastening of the plate is carried out using anchors.

Installation of wind protection material.
Exterior finish (block house, siding, decorative brick).

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you will now figure it out on your own. Be sure not to miss the size of the insulation, you will still need to add a layer to it finishing material. After all, he also takes a place. After watching the video in this article and the photo, you can make the right choice.

Insulation of the walls of the house is carried out in the case when the house is intended for living and the walls do not retain heat enough.

All devices for heating a house (steam, stove, gas heating) consume maximum energy, but heat is not stored.

Thermal insulation can provide a comfortable environment in the house by insulating the walls, because the wall is a vulnerable place in the house, which experiences a large wind load.

With insufficient insulation of the walls, the cold easily penetrates the house.

Insulating walls from the inside or outside is an individual decision. Less popular way of warming - from the inside. With this method, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is significantly reduced.

This disadvantage of the method plays an important role in deciding the method of thermal insulation in favor of external insulation work. In addition, there is a high probability of moisture inside the wall, especially in regions with high humidity.

Wall insulation from the outside is significantlymore often. This method requires more costs, but the internal area for living in the house is preserved, which is especially important in houses whose area is already insignificant.

Wall insulation methods

Types of thermal insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many heaters, those that are most suitable in terms of their physical characteristics and heat-insulating properties predominate.

What is the best way to make external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation are:

(good thermal insulator, resistant to warping, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burned);
(low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature extremes, but is vapor-tight, prone to rodents);
(durable, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature changes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in the cracks of the building, exposed to ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
(an excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-combustible, durable, but emits harmful formaldehyde during installation);
(waterproofing, soundproofing, environmental friendliness, durability, lack of seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, shrinks during application, which can provoke peeling, recommended for combined insulation);
glass wool(thermal insulation, sound insulation, not affected by mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxicity, but due to the fragility of the fibers, it requires additional protection);
fibrolite(thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but with all the positive properties it is short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
cork material(light, durable, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

The choice of insulation

Differences in the insulation of aerated concrete, wooden, brick houses

From what material the walls of the house are made, the method of insulation depends. If we compare houses made of wood, brick and aerated concrete, we can highlight the following points that deserve attention:

unlike brick walls and houses made of aerated concrete, a prerequisite for installation is the installation of a crate to provide ventilation. Installation of the lathing of block walls is carried out only under or other hinged cladding;
the most suitable heaters for aerated concrete and brick walls are materials with a high moisture resistance index (foam, expanded polystyrene), while for wooden houses, breathable mineral wool boards are ideal insulation;
thermal conductivity brick wall higher than that of aerated concrete, so the wall must either be insulated with a thicker layer of insulation, or the thickness of the brickwork must be increased;
with external insulation wooden house the surface should be carefully prepared by treating it with antiseptics;
most often for fixing cake layers wooden wall installation of chipboard or OSB sheathing is required.

In addition, one should keep in mind all the indicators of the materials from which the walls are built, such as moisture resistance, thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls

Before you buy a heater, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of the purchased material.

An indicator of the thickness of the material is the result of thermal resistance. The value for each region is different and is determined in accordance with the indications of SNiP.

For the region of the central part of the Eurasian continent, it is approximately equal to three.

The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the difference between this indicator according to SNiP and the total amount of thermal conductivity of each material that is present in the wall.

To determine the thermal conductivity coefficient for each material, use the formula:

P=R/K ,

where R is the thickness of the material, K is an indicator of its thermal conductivity (the manufacturer indicates on the packaging).

After adding all the coefficients, the value is subtracted from the three. It turns out the thickness of the material necessary for insulation.

Wall pie device

Wall cake is a collection of layers of materials that are stacked vertically in a certain order.

Each layer of the pie wall has its own styling features. If the sequence of layers is violated, then there is a risk of destruction of the entire structure.

The device of a wall cake for external insulation must comply with the order of laying materials, starting with inside walls:

interior decoration;
internal bearing layer (drywall, sheathing);
vapor barrier (required in frame houses);
bearing wall;
insulation;
waterproofing (depending on the insulation);
crate;
ventilation gap (depending on the heat insulator);
finishing.

Wooden wall cake

Such a scheme for laying materials should be followed if the house is timber, frame or log.

If the wall is brick or aerated concrete, then the wall pie is slightly different:

interior decoration;
Brick wall;
insulation;
ventilation gap (if mineral wool is used);
load-bearing layer outside or crate (if you want to mount facade materials);
finishing (plaster, siding, porcelain stoneware).

"Wet" wall cake

Particular importance should be given to waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Lathing installation

Lathing for external insulation is necessary when attaching siding as an external wall finish. With vertical siding, the crate is fixed horizontally, and vice versa: with horizontal - vertically.

The crate can be made of wooden beams or their metal profile.

Lathing of beams

Before proceeding with the crate, it is necessary to prepare the bars: treat with an antifungal agent.

saw off a beam of the required size;
fix the brackets around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws according to preliminary marking;
fix the beam as guides on the right and left sides of the wall;
if there is no thermal insulation, then it is necessary to fasten the beam to the wall by drilling holes for dowels and fixing it with self-tapping screws.

Run the crate along the entire wall, if it is necessary to level the surface, use special mounting wedges.

Lathing of beams

profile crate

The metal profile should be fixed with hangers and brackets.

Installation of a metal crate:

fix the profile on the right side of the wall and on the left side so that there is at least 100 mm from the corner to the guide;
according to the marking, drill holes for dowels and attach brackets along the entire wall;
if thermal insulation is installed, then the insulation plates are pricked onto the brackets;
lay the vapor barrier in the same way as a heater;
install a metal profile along the edges of the wall;
set the height of the profile with a thread and fix the profile along the entire wall;
fasten stiffeners from the remains of the profile between the elements.

NOTE!

It is better to choose a metal profile for siding with curved edges.

It is best to use a good quality aluminum profile.

profile crate

Why do you need a counter-lattice

Lathing and counter lathing are concepts that are often confused. The crate is necessary for attaching the coating elements to it.

The counter grille is attached perpendicular to the crate and performs the function of ventilation and at the same time fixes the hydro-barrier.

Counter rails must be installed in the walls on the sheathing or on the rafters.

The walls of houses that are equipped with a counter-lattice are called ventilated.

With a ventilated facade, the properties of the cake materials are preserved and the formation of moisture and mold is prevented.

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

When installing waterproofing outside the wall of a wooden house, it can be done:

by applying a special solution to the walls;
with the help of additional materials (waterproofing polyurethane foam).

If the wall is brick, then you can use special solutions or resort to an adhesive form of waterproofing: roofing material. Glue it vertically, overlapping, removing the formed air bubbles and gluing the joints with mastic.

When using decorative facing materials, special plaster waterproofing is used.

Waterproofing mineral wool

When installing a vapor barrier from the outside, films should be used that protect the surface of the wall with outside and let moisture through the walls.

Mounting vapor barrier films comes down to the rules:

they should be laid between the insulation layer and the wall;
provide a gap for ventilation between layers;
overlap the film, glue the joints, fasten the film with staples.

If the vapor barrier is installed on a round beam, then there is no need to install a ventilation gap. In the case of square boards, such a need is mandatory.

External wall insulation with mineral wool for siding

For effective wall insulation with mineral wool prepare the surface for subsequent installation work : clean up debris, close up gaps, remove gutters and other decorative elements, apply markings, attach hangers.

laying mineral wool slabs from the bottom up between the guide posts end-to-end, pushing the material onto the suspensions and attaching the dowel-nails;
close the cracks with pieces of insulation;
lay a vapor barrier membrane similar to a heater;
attach racks to suspensions;
then proceed to the lining.

Metal crate

This method is suitable for metal profiles.

If it is used wooden beam, then the insulation with mineral wool is somewhat different:

on the prepared wall, attach the bars with corners at a distance of the width of the mineral wool slab;
the insulation is laid end-to-end between the racks, fixed with a pair of dowels, the slots are sealed with mounting foam;
if a second layer of insulation is needed, then counter-rails are attached to the racks and mineral wool slabs are laid between them;
the diffusion membrane is attached to the frame with staples;
install a counter-lattice, which serves as the basis for fastening siding panels and creates an air gap in the wall cake.

Wall cake for siding

Fastening mineral wool to the wall with dowels

External insulation technology using foam

Styrofoam can be used to insulate the walls of a private house from the outside. The order of work on foam insulation provides for the sequence of work performed:

preparation of walls (cleaning of debris, sealing cracks, primer);
applying the necessary markup;
attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for even laying the first row of plates;
attach the foam by applying an adhesive solution, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is attached in a cross order;
after the final drying of the glue, fix the foam plastic with umbrellas;
joints are sealed with mounting foam, if large - with pieces of foam. After solidification, the excess foam is cut off;
for finishing slopes and corners, special corners should be used, which are glued to the tape of the reinforcing mesh.

Laying sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Sheet fastening

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with foam, since with a breathing tree it is better to use a porous insulation that can pass moisture and air vapor.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

The main mistakes of insulation

External wall insulation country house must be made in accordance with the requirements and rules for the installation of materials. Errors that most often occur during insulation contribute to improper circulation of air flows and the formation of moisture inside the cake, which leads to a weakening of thermal insulation qualities:

incorrect calculation of heat resistance;
in the absence of a basement rail at the bottom of the wall, the insulation may come into contact with the ground;
polystyrene foam during installation should not be left in the sun for a long time;
gaps between the insulation plates lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
at the corners of the building and around doors and windows, expansion dowels should be installed to securely fasten the material.

In addition, you should not save on materials, since in addition to their correct installation, the poor quality of the material should not cause poor-quality insulation.

Thus, when insulating the walls, the living area is preserved, a careful study of the details is required to calculate the amount of materials and determine the order of installation work.

Useful video

Mineral wool insulation technology in video instructions:

In contact with

Reading time ≈ 6 minutes

According to the results of the winter period, the owners of private houses are wondering what is the best way to insulate the building from the outside. And this is not idle curiosity, but a desire to save on heating costs.

Appointment of external wall insulation

It's no secret that a third of the heat goes in the winter through non-insulated walls. To increase the temperature inside the house, you have to turn on additional heaters, which provoke extra costs.

Practical results scientific research confirm that heat losses due to non-insulated walls are on average 30%. However, it is often possible to encounter a problem when to heat inner space practically fails, since heat losses are more than 40%.

These circumstances force the owners of private houses to think about the insulation of the building. There are two ways to insulate buildings:

external;

Most experts prefer external wall insulation for several reasons:

installation of a heat-insulating layer inside the room reduces the internal area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms;
the outer heat-insulating layer prevents the accumulation of condensate;
external thermal insulation reduces heat loss to almost zero;
external wall insulation provides increased sound insulation.

Condensation is the worst enemy of any structure. In winter, under the influence of low temperatures, moisture may accumulate inside the insulation. high humidity provokes the occurrence of mold fungi, which pose a serious danger not only to the home, but also to the health of all residents.

In addition, wet insulation is unable to provide reliable heat retention. With the onset of a warm period, the insulation gradually dries out, but it is not possible to completely get rid of moisture. As a result, after a few years it will be possible to visually detect traces of the destructive effects of moisture.

If someone decides to save on wall insulation, then with the strongest wear of the walls of the facade, urgent repairs will have to be carried out and incur large financial costs.

Condensation will not harm the building if the insulation is carried out outside. Even if moisture penetrates the heat-insulating layer, it will immediately be removed to the outside.

After the decision on external wall insulation is made, it remains to choose the appropriate heat-insulating material. Modern market building materials offers a wide range of such products:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam;
mineral wool;
penoplex.

There are other materials that contribute to the insulation of walls. However, the above are highly popular, which is why owners of private houses often give preference to them.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a type of insulation that has a fibrous structure. To obtain such a material, alloys of volcanic rocks are used, which are processed under the influence of high temperatures.

Many residents seek to insulate the house with mineral wool, since it has a number of advantages:

high level of heat retention in winter, prevention of heat penetration into the house in summer;
excellent sound insulation;
long service life;
high level of tightness.

- an environmentally friendly insulation that does not provoke problems either for human health or for the environment.

wall preparation (cleaning, sealing cracks, if any);
installation on the entire surface of the walls of a layer of a vapor-permeable membrane;
distribution and consolidation wooden slats(instead of wooden slats, you can use profiles);
distribution of heat-insulating mats;
styling reinforced mesh;
giving texture to the facade.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages. In particular, it is attractive to rodents. Also, a mineral wool mat is heavy, so it is important to choose reliable fasteners to ensure proper installation.

Unfortunately, using mineral wool to insulate "weak" walls will be quite problematic. It is better to give preference to alternative materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is very popular because it has the following characteristics:

durability;
low (almost zero) water absorption;
high heat-saving properties;
high level of resistance to exposure to harmful microflora;
good fire resistance due to the processing of the material with flame retardant compounds;
ease of installation.

The main disadvantage of a is the release of harmful toxic substances during combustion, dangerous not only to health, but also to human life.

Styrofoam

In an effort to determine the best way to insulate a house, homeowners come to the conclusion that foam can be used to insulate the walls outside.

Styrofoam is a heater with several advantages:

light weight;
high thermal insulation properties;
moisture resistant;
high soundproofing characteristics;
ease of installation.

Due to the fact that the foam has a light weight, it is used to insulate the walls of buildings that are unable to withstand additional loads.

Unfortunately, such a thermal insulation material also has disadvantages that are important to consider when making a choice. The disadvantages include:

air tightness;
toxicity in case of fire;
short operational period;
weak resistance to aggressive external influences ( elevated temperatures contact with chemicals).

Installation of foam is carried out in the following sequence:

profiles are attached to the external walls of the building;
a special polymer adhesive is applied;
foam panels are installed in a profile, attached to the wall with glue;
additional fixing of sheets with dowels is carried out;
a special reinforced mesh is laid on top of the foam;
a primer is applied;
at the end, the wall is exposed to the application of plaster to give the facade texture.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a heat-insulating material that is a type of plastic. It has a foamy texture.

Many people prefer to choose polyurethane foam for wall insulation, because it:

has unique noise-absorbing characteristics;
resistant to aggressive chemicals;
has low moisture permeability;
able to serve more than three decades;
is an environmentally friendly material.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

wall preparation;
applying primer and adhesive solution;
installation of polyurethane foam boards;
primer of the surface of the insulation;
installation of a reinforced mesh that provides an increase in the level of thermal insulation;
applying putty and primer;
application of facade plaster.

Penoplex

Penoplex is an innovative insulation that allows you to significantly save energy. The advantages of penoplex are:

able to withstand huge loads;
service life of at least forty years;
low thermal conductivity.

Thanks to these characteristics, it is a leader among other heat-insulating materials.

Installation of such a heater is carried out in the following sequence:

wall preparation;
installation of guide profiles;
applying a special polymer adhesive to foam boards;
gluing foam to the wall;
additional fixation with dowels;
applying a primer;
installation of reinforced mesh;
application of textured plaster.

Features of home insulation

The installation process may be accompanied by distinctive features. At the same time, differences arise not only due to the choice of a specific insulation, but also taking into account the material from which the house was built.

In particular, brick house when laying insulation, it is necessary to create an air layer, vapor barrier. However, a wooden building does well without such a layer.

On top of the insulation structure, facade tiles are installed or the facade of the house is lined with clapboard or boards with their own hands. Insulation under siding is also popular. This procedure is acceptable due to the affordable cost and quick turnaround time.

Is it possible to insulate the house from the outside? on their own by preparing suitable material in advance. If there are doubts about the better to insulate or there are no skills in conducting such work, then it is recommended to seek help from specialists. The money spent will quickly pay off. Owners of insulated houses will feel how much warmer it will be in the house by the next winter period of the year.