How to make an antique tree with your own hands. Artificial aging of wood

Wood aging is gaining more and more popularity among lovers of antique furniture. Russian manufacturers have noticed this trend. Many large factories in the Russian Federation have special lines that produce furniture using the technique of brushing or artificial aging. Not everyone can afford such furniture, but even fragile female hands can turn wooden boards into an old masterpiece at home. Today we will get acquainted with 4 ways of artificial aging of a tree and learn how to apply them in everyday life.

Brushing - an analysis of the basics of popular technology

Take wooden board, put it in front of you. What do you see? Tree pattern. Each breed has its own unique pattern, which consists of combined light and dark lines. They are created over the years as the tree grows. In winter, dark fibers with a dense structure grow, and in summer - soft light colors. Under the influence of moisture, sun, wind and weather conditions, the soft layer with light fibers is gradually erased, the board takes on an old look. To achieve the natural effect of aging wood will have to wait decades. Fortunately, there is a simple and quick procedure for brushing. As a result of thermal, chemical and mechanical impact, wood acquires a convex texture with worn edges and chips, which is characteristic of a "living tree" with a centuries-old history.

The brushing technique comes from English word"brush", translated brush. For aging, a metal brush is really used. However, this is not the only tool that allows you to achieve the effect of an old tree.

After brushing with abrasive materials, the wood is covered with paint or stain, opened with varnish. Lacquer materials emphasize the new texture and extend the life of the wood. Standard paints can be combined with shades of bronze, gold, silver. To achieve maximum effect, it is important to choose the right wood. For brushing, wood species such as larch, merbau, wenge, alder, ash, oak, metoba, kempas are suitable. Spruce and pine look especially good in this technique. But beech, maple, teak, juniper, birch, alder, pear, cherry are bad examples for brushing. After processing, the drawing should be expressive and not merge, which cannot be achieved with the above breeds. So pay attention to the peculiarity of the pattern. The more expressive it is, the more interesting the result will be. The presence of chips, hollows and knots on the surface will be an additional advantage. Depending on the brushing method chosen, it takes from several hours to days to work.

What to age in the interior - we understand the issue in more detail

Aged wood in the interior is the main attribute of country style and Provence. It creates a rustic, country atmosphere in the house, close to nature. To emphasize this style, the brushing technique can be applied to the following interior elements:

  • "pot-bellied" or ordinary chest of drawers;
  • window sills and doors made of natural wood;
  • solid wood for flooring and wall cladding;
  • floor beams;
  • backyard benches;
  • shelves, tables, chairs;
  • log cabins for wells;
  • wooden fences.

Natural wood with the effect of aging goes well with other natural materials (stone, leather, metal). Brushing is often used by craftsmen who create handicrafts. Here are some more ideas from this series: a designer lamp, a notebook with rough leather and wood trim, forged furniture for garden plot

Method number 1 - a metal brush and translucent glaze

The easiest option for aging wood is to use a stiff metal brush with a handle. After intensive movements on the surface of the wood, the texture of the material appears on it, which is then emphasized by the finishing. Before aging the wood, we sand the surface with sandpaper with a grit of 150. Then we take a metal brush and go through it along the line of fibers until characteristic stripes and bulges appear. It should be noted that the manual brushing process is lengthy, so be patient. Intense movements paid off, soft fibers were removed and texture appeared on the surface. Remove the resulting wood chips with a soft brush, not with your hand, otherwise you can drive a splinter.

The tree is changing before our eyes. To emphasize its relief, we cover the surface with 2 layers of translucent glaze. Such material already looks attractive. After a couple of minutes, remove the extra layer of glaze with a sponge and open the tree with varnish. If it seems to you that something is missing, you can paint the wood in the Provence style. Use white glaze, applying it after the first coat of translucent glaze. Remove the fresh glaze with a sponge after 3 5 minutes after application in a chaotic manner. The final stage is varnishing or transparent glaze.

Simplified to a minimum option - the use of a metal brush and white glaze. We pass over the surface with a brush, cover it with white glaze and again, after drying, brush off thick areas with a brush finish. Thanks to this simple method aging of a tree, a whitewashed board with a slight perennial bloom is obtained.

Method number 2 - multi-layer staining

To make wood look like real antiques, you need to work hard. One way to do this is multi-layer staining. What is needed for this, we will find out a little later, but for now we will work a little on the wood manually. Take an awl, a hammer, a file, self-tapping screws, rods and leave a mark on each tool. Small chips, cracks, scratches and abrasions will give the naturalness of antiquity. The main thing is not to overdo it.

Now let's move on to the paints, you will need:

  • primer for wood Pinotex;
  • tinting paint;
  • white glaze;
  • white spirit for dilution.

For the first layer, take a Pinotex wood primer and spread it over the entire surface. Pinotex primer is thicker than glaze. It is used in cases where it is necessary to create a thick base layer. After the first layer has completely dried, we apply tinting paint (antiseptic). Wait for everything to dry and move on to the next step. We take fine and large sandpaper, a metal brush. We work alternately with all the tools, creating a natural raid of time. Next, take the white glaze, dip the brush into it, remove the excess and spread it over the wood. It is not necessary to apply glaze densely and evenly. The lower dark layer should be visible through it. Again we take a metal brush and go through the dried surface, creating more visible gaps. Such aging of wood looks contrasting. To bring it closer to natural, the next layer needs to be made more muted. This can be achieved by diluting the white glaze with white spirit in equal proportions. Apply the diluted mixture to the surface and wait for complete drying.

Method number 3 - an electric drill with a nozzle and paint-lacquer

The mechanical method with a hand brush is reliable but time consuming. To age a tree with your own hands quickly, use an electric drill or a grinder with a hard nylon bristle attachment. We begin the work with the preparation of wood. Take a hand planer and make notches along the edges of the material. Electric option we do not recommend using the tool, the result will look unnatural. Before proceeding to the next step, we put on goggles and a respirator to protect the mucous membrane of the eyes and nasopharynx from wood chips. Thick gloves won't hurt either. Take a drill or grinder, put on a stiff brush attachment and practice on small area tree. Move strictly in the direction of the fibers, do not press the nozzle too tightly to the surface. If you're sure you're ready, move on to the main part. With light movements we move along the wood, remove the soft fibers.

To speed up the process and enhance artificial aging, before starting work with a drill or grinder, you can singe the tree with a gas burner. It is important not to hold the torch in one place too long to prevent the resin from igniting.

If you are not burning wood, then after using power tools, dampen the board with a brush and let it dry for 2-3 minutes. Next, sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper, collect wood dust. It is better to do this with a vacuum cleaner to completely eliminate the entry of drifts under the skin, or carefully walk over the surface with a soft bristle brush. Before finishing, holes can be made in the board with a depth of 1-2 mm with a blunt nail.

The last stage is coating with paints and varnishes. Use paint and varnish of your choice. Tip, so that the artificially aged tree looks as realistic as possible, we paint the recesses in light shades, and the convex parts in darker ones. If you decide to paint the board in one light shade, after drying, sand the surface to bring out the dark details. After finishing the work, we fix the finish with varnish. To enhance the result, instead of the usual varnish, you can use craquelure. After drying, it cracks, the lower layer of paint is visible in the voids.

If it’s expensive for you to age wood with your own hands using paint or wax, and you don’t have a drill or a grinder with a nozzle at hand, use a metal scraper for washing dishes. Wood processing will be delayed, but it will save money. Instead of wax, take a shoe cream of the desired shade. Wax is also present in its composition, the main thing is to open the tree with varnish after processing.

Method number 4 - exposure to fire and a stiff brush

Aging wood with a gas burner or blowtorch widely used among masters who want to get a deep effect. Besides, this fast option, which depending on the usage additional tools has its own characteristics.

If you just want to emphasize the texture of the wood, do not pre-treat the surface. Burn the board with a gas burner in separate places or completely, and then go over with fine-grained sandpaper. But pre-treatment will help to make the surface more convex and embossed. Remove soft fibers manually with a wire brush or go through with a drill with a nozzle. Carry out firing. After processing, such wood looks noble and more advantageous than the previous version due to a deeper effect on the material. Also, a special effect is obtained by completely firing the material with a gas burner and subsequent processing with a hard hand brush.

When working with fire, remember: you should not bring a gas burner or blowtorch close to a tree. Do not hold the machine for too long in one place, work quickly to avoid fire and be sure to follow safety precautions. Before starting work, put on thick gloves, a robe, goggles and a respirator. After cleaning the surface, varnish it.

Brushing wood with your own hands is an interesting technology that allows you to artificially age a tree. The natural aging process takes decades. But now, with the help of special tools, this effect can be achieved at home quickly and without significant material costs. Aged material is ideal for decorating classic, vintage and rustic styles.

Brushing wood with your own hands: how the process is carried out

Residents of modern cities increasingly prefer styles with a pronounced individuality in the decor of the room: classic, vintage, rustic and country.

The main detail of such interiors is wood. Thanks to this material, the design of the room acquires a uniqueness and inimitable charm. But for a classic and vintage style, a tree in its original natural form is not suitable. In this case, an aged tree is best suited, which has a more attractive and noble appearance. This material is suitable for the manufacture of any element of decor: a vintage lamp, a wooden chest of drawers, stylish doors and window frames, facings of a fireplace.

Under natural conditions, the process of wood aging drags on for decades, since the original patterns on the wood surface are formed slowly and unevenly. Therefore, this material is rare and expensive. But among modern technologies there is a simple and fast way artificial aging of wood. This process is called brushing. Interest in this method is shown not only by lovers of elite vintage furniture, but also by those who want to diversify the interior of country houses.

Do-it-yourself wood aging (brushing) is a decorative technology for processing wooden products, during which for ordinary wooden surface creates an artificial effect of antiquity. The method got its name from the English word brush - brush. The aging process is also called wood structuring.

The method of artificial brushing is based on the difference in hardness of the layers that make up the wood. In the process of work, the soft light layer is removed. As a result, the areas become embossed, which gives the material a special look that is inherent only in fairly old trees.

Types of safe finishing materials for interior decoration, their specificity and features of use, prices.

Process automation: machines and machines for brushing wood

Mass production of artificially aged wood requires speed of work. Some stages of wood processing can be mechanized, which will simplify the work of obtaining aged wood. To do this, you will need drills with speed control and special machines for brushing.

Consider the most popular models of specialized techniques for structuring a tree.

Festool rustofix ras 180 wood trimmer or brush machine. Wood brushing brushes can be purchased with this tool. They are of three types:

  • brush out steel wire for primary processing of boards;
  • brush with synthetic bristles for intermediate grinding;
  • sisal or hair brushes for polishing the back surface of the product.

The Makita 974 grinder is used for brushing wood. But during operation, difficulties may arise with the processing of areas at the corners of the part. Therefore, at the joints, it is recommended to use a special angle grinder with different nozzles or use a nylon brush dressed on the grinder for brushing. Such a brush is highly wear-resistant and allows you to process the ends, edges and contours of parts with complex shapes.

The Felisatti AGF 110/1010E grinder is suitable for processing both flat and uneven surfaces. The tool comes with nylon and metal brushes.

Useful advice! It makes sense to buy a wood brushing machine only if large volumes of work are planned. Brushes for brushing wood can be bought both with a machine and purchased separately.

How to age a tree with your own hands: technologies

The process of aging opens up the widest possibilities for the master to change the structure and color of different types of wood. Before proceeding directly to structuring, the wood must be prepared. The material for brushing should be free of defects, notches and irregularities, and the humidity should be 10-12%, but not more than 15%. If the tree does not meet these characteristics, then the wood fibers will tear during processing, and a beautiful result from structuring will not work.

Let us consider in more detail the process of how to age a tree at home. The work with the material can be divided into several stages.

Before starting work, it is necessary to perform the primary processing of the part, namely: to moisten the tree. This will prevent the spread of dust throughout the room during operation.

Next, you will need a manual brush for processing. Depending on the hardness of the wood, we choose the stiffness of the metal brush for roughing. The bristles of the tool must easily remove soft surface fibers, but must not damage hard ones. Move the brush in the direction of the fibers.

If you decide to automate the processing process with a brush for brushing wood on a grinder or grinder, then you should remember that the movements are carried out along the fibers. It is necessary to move the tool with such intensity that the fibers are effectively scraped out.

You need to carefully select the speed: too high a speed of the brush can cause the wood to bake. When using a hand tool, this problem does not arise, but more effort needs to be applied. Also, manual processing will be delayed in time.

Useful advice! It is better to select the speed on a separate small sample of the tree. The optimal number of revolutions is 1500-2200, but for different breeds it may differ.

Then we carry out the primary grinding of the part. To do this, we use a polymer brush with an abrasive applied to it. This stage will remove roughness and fiber fragments from the surface of the part. By removing all unnecessary, you can evaluate how deeply and efficiently the structuring of wood is performed. If necessary, the grooves can be further deepened, making the structuring more distinct.

The next step is to think about decorative design details. For this, recesses and grooves of arbitrary shape are made with a chisel in different places of the part. In appearance, they will resemble cracks that appeared naturally.

Next comes the final polishing. To do this, you need a sisal or hair brush. This tool for wood will give the details a finished look, fully showing all the decorative texture. At manual processing instead of a brush, fine-grained sandpaper with an abrasive surface is used. It will allow you to make a perfectly polished surface of the workpiece.

Then the wood must be well dried. It must be completely cleaned of dust and thus prepared for further painting and varnishing.

The application will make the product look old by creating contrasting textured patterns. A generous application of the compound with quick removal of excess will allow you to paint over parts with soft fibers and leave light areas with hard fibers. Soft fibers quickly absorb paint, which means they are dyed, while hard fibers do not have time to absorb the pigment during this time, so they remain light. A tree painted with gold or silver paint looks especially beautiful.

Against the background of the natural color of the tree, this pigment creates glare on the surface of the part in the sun. This gives the product an original decorative effect and luxury. The product will look especially presentable if the tree is patinated - painting over the deepest cracks with darker paint.

At the final stage, the product is polished again to remove the roughness and irregularities that appeared after staining.

Useful advice! Lacquering is carried out on completely dry and cleaned wood. To paint brushed parquet, it is necessary to use a special parquet varnish. This will allow the finished coating to maintain a presentable appearance and performance characteristics for a long time.

Wood brushing: features of wood chemical structuring

Brushing with the help of chemistry is rare, even though the use of chemically active compounds greatly facilitates the process of artificial aging of wood. For the chemical treatment of wood, it is necessary to have special knowledge and ability to work with chemicals. In addition, the method has a drawback - it is not always easy to buy the necessary reagents.

For the chemical structuring of a tree, acids are needed: hydrochloric and sulfuric, alkali and ammonia. Reagents applied to the surface of the material corrode the soft fibers. The master can only scrape off unnecessary wood.

Stages of chemical brushing of wood:

  1. Surface grinding and decontamination.
  2. Apply a thin layer of chemicals to the surface of the part. During chemical structuring, the evaporation of reagents must be monitored. If necessary, it is recommended to reapply them.
  3. When the chemical works, that is, softens the outer fibers, the part must be rinsed under running water and remove any remaining reagent with a soft-bristled brush.
  4. Next, the tree must be thoroughly dried, painted or varnished.

The availability and demand for brushing allows you to perform this method at home. When structuring wood, it is imperative to adhere to safety regulations. Work with tools and a machine for brushing wood should be carefully and carefully. All artificial structuring processes must be carried out in special protective clothing, goggles and gloves. If antiseptic solutions are used during work or too much dust accumulates in the air from wood, then you should work in a respirator.

Brushing a wooden surface is an unusual way to make a piece of wood more beautiful, unusual and attractive. This method is very popular among interior designers and ordinary people, since everyone can artificially age a tree. You need to spend a little time and effort to get luxurious furniture or a chic original ceiling, stylized antique. For a better effect, patination of furniture can be carried out.

Artificial brushing of wood: the price of work

The main task of wood brushing is to create and emphasize the unique texture of the surface of the board. The result is a material with a clearly developed pattern. natural material. The procedure is suitable for many types of material. The cost of standard brushing is 350 rubles. per sq. m. When ordering additional painting, the cost increases. The price of the work depends on the chosen type of wood, as well as on the size of the board.

The cost of each stage of artificial aging is usually calculated separately. You can order separately grinding or just impregnation. The most profitable option is a full brushing service from the beginning of work to the final coverage with the purchase of material. It is possible to perform artificial structuring from your material.

Wood brushing workshops perform an individual calculation of the cost of processing, depending on the type of wood, the size of the product and the list of services.

Brushing is performed over any kind of wooden materials:

  • bar;
  • lining;

  • planks;
  • block house;
  • planks.

Scope of application of tree structuring technology

The structuring method is very popular in the manufacture of interior items and room elements. Such wooden products will be an original addition to classic and vintage interiors. In addition, the advantage of brushing technology is the ability to independently create exclusive items. In addition, this method belongs to the category simple processes available to everyone.

Fireplaces, shelves, columns, wall panels, as well as aged wood are used as a brushed board. ceiling beams. This material creates a unique entourage for living rooms and halls, halls of cafes and restaurants. The interior design is filled with aristocracy and luxury, and aged wood creates warmth and comfort in the room.

Looks stylish and sophisticated wooden furniture using brushed elements. Artificial aging and patination of wood with your own hands allows you to make absolutely any furniture: cabinets, chests of drawers, pegs, beds. The use of brushed elements in furniture and interior design has no restrictions and prohibitions - it all depends on your imagination and creativity.

The current trend is transformation various items furniture, their decorative trim. Methods of influence on the surface are chosen in accordance with the interior, preferences, or simply according to mood. In this article, we tried to describe the basic techniques, materials, sequence of actions and their results that will help you age almost any surface.

Consider the options:

"Dry brush"

Dry brush- a technique borrowed by decorators from painters. And if in painting this method creates an image, then in practical decor it is a great way to make an object look old, to add years to it.

The essence of the technique: a little paint is picked up on a flat synthetic brush, the excess is wiped off, this is done on paper (palette, rag) until each hair of the brush gives a separate line.


And now, with light movements, lightly touching the object, we “dirty” it, focusing on the protruding parts: ribs, convex pattern, etc.

Thus, the relief is emphasized and scuffs are imitated.

Applying patina or patination

Patina is a greenish-brown coating that forms on copper and bronze objects as a result of environmental oxidation. In a broader sense, patina is understood as traces of aging on any objects created from any materials.

Patination in decoration is an imitation of the darkening of the surface, which in its natural form looks like changes in color after a long period of time and frequent contact with hands. Patina is dark, colored, metallic, white (laying).

The patinating composition is applied to the edges, corners of the object, or vice versa, into the recesses of the relief parts. There are several types of patination.

2. Patina based on acrylic

3. Chemical patina

A special oxidizing agent is applied to the paint with finely dispersed metal particles, which causes the metal surface to age (oxidize) within a few minutes.

Glaze

Glaze- This is a painting technique in which the lower layer of the paint layer shines through the upper translucent one. The technique is widely used not only in painting, but also in interior design, including painting objects. The technique allows you to get deep iridescent colors due to the translucency of the glazing layers.


Various paints and coloring compositions are suitable for glazing: watercolor, oil, acrylic paints, strong brewed tea. It is convenient to use a solution of acrylic paints. A wide palette allows you to get the right color.

The paints are easily mixed with each other, diluted with water or acrylic paint thinner to the desired consistency, dry quickly after application, then resistant to moisture and mechanical stress and can be applied to any surface.


Technological process: With a synthetic brush or sponge, apply the solution to the prepared surface, wait for it to dry and evaluate the result. Glazing does not completely paint over the structure of the base or the previously applied image, it only sets the tone. To enhance the effect, you can apply a second layer of glazing paint and then the color intensity will increase.

If you apply several translucent layers of paint different color, as a result we get different shades, translucent through each other.

Spray

Spray- droplets-splashes on the surface of the decorated product, which create an image of a thing that has passed through time, reflect the history of its use.

An artistically soiled thing like this in a simple way receives a unique visual charm and a relief that is pleasant for tactile perception. This is all very important, since the items chosen for decoration are designed for the beloved home and for people dear to the heart.

The process itself is very entertaining. Before you start, you need to prepare workplace. For example, cover the surface with newspaper or cloth. Of the tools you need a toothbrush or a hard brush. From materials: paints and water in a glass.

Progress:

Wet the brush with water and pick up a small amount of paint on it. We try with a fingernail or a toothpick to launch drops on the still test surface of the sample, simply by running the tool along the bristles.

With a wide brush, you can simply shake off drops or tap your hand with a brush, then small colored droplets break off the brush and fly down. Having decided on the application process, it's time to conjure.

Spraying is the last operation before varnishing. Drops applied on top of the varnish will differ from the general glossiness of the surface of the object, this effect will introduce an additional effect of a gap in time.

Crackle

Crackle- the technique of artificial aging, the creation of cracks in the paint or varnish layer.

1. Craquelures are divided into one-step (single-phase) and two-step (two-phase)

One step craquelure looks like a cracked layer of paint, through the cracks of which the lower layer of paint or the base of the product is visible. The basis can be any: glass, metal, plastic, wood and similar materials.

Two step craquelure looks like a network of fine cracks (cracked varnish) on the surface of any image or coating.

2. Eggshell crackle

Gives a bright high relief cracking effect. A clean shell is glued onto PVA or acrylic varnish in pieces at some distance from each other. Sometimes the relief is additionally emphasized by patination or the “dry brush” technique.

Color self cracking lacquer. It is applied to the surface in a thick layer and left to dry. Forms large cracks.

4. Two-component microcraquelure

Gives the effect of thin cracks - cobwebs. Transparent, due to which it is often used over images.

After drying, cracks are often emphasized by patination.

5. Paint-craquelure

Self-cracking paint with one-step craquelure effect.

Gentle scuffs in the style of Shabby Chic or Scuffing Technique using a candle

The technique is simple and consistent. The corners, sides, joints of the primed planes of the object are covered with paint of a saturated shade, the paint layer is rubbed with paraffin, then covered with light paint, most often 2 layers are required.


Now the mechanics: sandpaper in places where paraffin and the 1st layer of paint are applied, the top layer is removed. Thus, scuffs, imitation of use, the effect of aging appear.

Delicate pastel colors are traditionally used in this technique. with "sweet" shades, as if sun-bleached or faded from time to time:

Light pink;

Ivory;

Creamy;

Hyacinth;

Lavender;

White (but not snow-white, but as if slightly yellowed from time to time);

pistachio;

Linen.

You can add “shabby chic” with painting, motifs from decoupage cards or napkins, add splashes. The final coat will be several layers of acrylic matte varnish.

Etching

Suitable for objects of any size made of wood. Best of all, rocks lend themselves to this method of processing. deciduous trees. In this way, you can give the wood noble, rich shades, without losing the natural beauty of the texture of the material.

Etching is carried out with various compositions - mordants. Some of them have complex names or a strong smell, but along with them there are many recipes available for making your own hands, such as tea, coffee, leaves, bark compositions; potassium permanganate, blue, vinegar are used. For those who feel like a bit of a chemist, tinting wood surfaces is a good idea.

The process can take place in two ways:

1. Hand painting with a lint-free swab or synthetic brush.

2. Dyeing by soaking in the etching composition.

Most often, the process is elevated temperatures. After selecting and acquiring (mixing) the desired composition, the wood is cleaned of excess and cleaned with sandpaper. Then the etching-staining process itself. As a rule, the time of exposure to the composition and the expected result are attached to the mordant recipe. Basically, all the same, control is carried out visually and, of course, here is the place for creativity.

The effect of various dressings on different types of wood

Copper
vitriol,
1%
Iron
vitriol,
4-5%
Iron
vitriol,
1%
Zinc
vitriol,
2,5%
potassium
hrompik,
3%
potassium
hrompik,
5%
Oak, willow Brown blue-black Lilac gray Red-brown Light brown Dark brown
Nut Brown blue-black Lilac gray Red-brown Brown Dark brown
Beech Black Lilac gray Red-brown Light brown Dark brown
Maple Dark grey Light lilac gray tan yellowish golden
Birch Dark grey Light lilac gray Dark red greenish yellow yellowish golden
Aspen Dark silver gray Silver gray
Linden Light brown Pink Dark red
Red tree Black gray purple Reddish brown dark Dark brown
sulfate
manganese,
2,5%
Chloride
calcium,
1%
English
salt,
2%
Chlorine
iron,
1%
Chloric
copper,
1%
potassium
hrompik and
iron
vitriol
(by 1.5%)
Oak, willow Dark brown Red-brown Brown bluish gray Light brown olive brown
Nut Dark brown Red-brown Brown Navy blue Darkening
Beech Dark brown Red-brown Brown Grey olive brown
Maple taupe
Birch Brown Coffee Violet Olive
Aspen
Linden Brown Coffee Violet
Red tree gray purple Darkening

The most common method of mechanical aging of wood is brushing. Its name comes from the word Brush - "brush".

The surface is treated with metal brushes, choosing the upper soft fibers, leaving only hard ones.

The ideal way to age if the furniture is from:

Larches;

This method will not work if the furniture is made from:


Wood brushing with firing or smoking

It is carried out using either an open flame, or, which is much more convenient, using a blowtorch or gas burner. Directing the flame to the surface of the wood, you can achieve a different shade of wood - from light golden to black. The color depends on the initial color of the wood and on the number of fire passes. Then brushing is performed - processing the surface of the wood with a hard wire brush. At the same time, the softer, burnt parts of the wood are cleaned out, while the harder ones (annual rings) remain in place.


Another way - firing in hot sand

Fine clean sand is poured into metal container and heated to a temperature not exceeding 200 degrees C. Place the products prepared for firing in hot sand and hold there until they darken. If the tone of the individual parts of the product should lighten gradually, then these parts are immersed vertically in the sand. The lower layers of sand heat up more than the upper ones, respectively, the lower part of the piece will be darker than the upper one. Thus, a tone is obtained that changes from light yellow to dark brown.

The surface treated with brushes and fire can be toned using the glazing or dry brush method, adding images using decoupage technique or adding colors by splashing.

Additional mechanical action

Sometimes time comes in the form of a wood-boring beetle. To simulate such damage left by insects, craftsmen use an awl, a drill, and even a laser. In the same way, minor damage is applied - chips or scuffs similar to those that surfaces have received for decades.

Another way to cause noble damage is to put nuts and bolts in a rag and beat an object with this bag. And then artistically ennoble to the desired result.

Imitation of the past decades, aging techniques and techniques combined with chemical and mechanical processing, give excellent decorative results.

For practical decoration, most of the materials in the arsenal are deservedly occupied by acrylic-based compositions. They are convenient to use in work: almost odorless, diluted with water, easily washed off the tools. They have a variety of effects (imitation of metals, oil paints, matte tempera) and various textures. A color scheme can inspire a makeover, even if it hasn't been planned. They are durable, resistant to water and sunlight.

Sebilkova Anna

Give your interior a personal touch different ways. Most often, this is done by focusing on certain little things, for example, the use of unusual textures or colors. One of the technologies in demand for the formation of the original texture is do-it-yourself wood aging. The technique allows you to give the surface a unique pattern, while the basis is natural material.

The need for a procedure

Those who want to make antique furniture with their own hands should learn how to give its surface the most realistic appearance. For this, an artificial process is used - brushing (from the English brush - brush). During operation, the fibers of the wooden elements are structured. In nature, a tree reaches such a visual state over a longer period, but using modern facilities, it is possible to significantly narrow this time interval.

Under natural conditions, an aged tree loses its strength, and under artificial impact, the reverse process occurs, depriving the material of weak fibers and providing greater strength.

Such treatment also helps to protect the surface from the effects of bark beetles and other insects. As a result, it will be possible to achieve the necessary colors and stylish appearance. You can age a tree with your own hands for any need: from small photo frames or boxes to making furniture or parquet.

The use of wood species

It is important to consider that not every type of wood can be processed in this special way. The final quality is influenced by the structure of the natural material. In most cases, artificial aging of a tree is applied to the following species:

  • larch;
  • nut;
  • ash.

The internal structure of the tree should have a visible fibrous pattern. It will become the basis for the formation of the invoice. Deprived of this property, wood species with extremely hard fibers are not commonly used. These include:

  • pear;
  • maple;
  • Cherry;

The task of the performer is to directly influence the soft structure located between the annual rings. In the presence of the most homogeneous environment, it will not be possible to form the aging of a tree with your own hands.

So, for example, by burning, you can turn ordinary pine into a rare and valuable species of tropical wood obtained from the Wenge tree.

VIDEO: We turn pine into wenge

Application of the mechanical method

When carrying out a full cycle of brushing, the following algorithm of actions is carried out:

  • primary machining using a metal brush to cut off soft particles from the surface of the workpiece

  • carrying out grinding work with a roughing brush with polymer bristles or the use of sandpaper with a coarse abrasive;
  • applying stain or other types of dyes to the treated surface;
  • polishing work or applying several layers of varnish, in the intervals between drying, sanding “zero” is performed

During artificial aging of wood, drills or grinders are used to reduce the amount of manual labor and increase productivity. The process uses brushes with aluminum, steel, copper and artificial polymer bristles.

Do-it-yourself wood aging, as shown in the video at the end of the chapter, begins with roughing, when the tool is driven along the arrangement of the fibers with the same speed and uniform pressure over the entire surface.

Processing should not form unwanted "pits" in the blanks, so you need to enter the tool evenly, without much pressure, if the idea does not require the formation of a target rough relief.

The light during work must be of high quality and provide a vision of the natural pattern. In this regard, the lamp beams are directed perpendicular to the length of the fibers. In such a situation, the desired pattern is shaded.

The moisture content of the processed wood is selected in the range of 15-16%. This value will provide the preferred finish surface roughness without raised villi. If, before aging a tree at home, you use a polymer processing tool, you will achieve an effect with a less pronounced relief.

The next step in the form of sanding will cut off the raised wood pile from the fibers. Sandpaper or abrasive brushes successfully cope with the task. You can control the degree of roughness manually.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself artificial aging of wood. Carpentry Tricks

Applying a coloring layer

The prepared relief with the help of mechanical means is processed by staining. This will significantly enhance the result and hide fresh peeling by mechanical means. Thanks to the play of colors, it will be possible to obtain the required presentable effect.

It is customary to stain similar antique wood products with stain, and then wash it off. This will allow the material to enter almost instantly into the soft structure of the tissues, while the hard one will not have time to absorb the applied color. The natural beauty of the material will fully manifest itself outside.

It will be possible to leave particles of gold paint on the surface if you apply a small layer of it with a brush, and then remove the residue from the surface with a hard spatula. The particles will penetrate into the depressions and pores, which will ensure a successful result.

You can protect the cavities and grooves formed during the machining process with a transparent putty. This technique is useful in the manufacture of countertops, shelves or other practical surfaces. During their operation, fine dirt will not be clogged into relief zones.

Since the tree must be artificially aged carefully and with the possibility of its use, the finishing operations are:

  • polishing;
  • varnishing;
  • waxing.

It will also be possible to achieve an interesting texture for designers with the help of craquelure varnishing. It forms on front side small cracks and chips. Paint or coal dust must be rubbed into them, providing a unique individual pattern.

Choose craquelure in specialized stores and within expiration dates. In most cases, expired varnish does not give a cracking effect.

Using chemical brushing

In the process of chemical action on the fibers, it is possible to achieve similar results that are obtained from mechanical processing. For this, active solutions are used that can affect the structure of the soft fiber. Corroding the desired areas, an original pattern is formed on the surface of a wooden blank.

Chemical brushing

The technique does not require the use of brushes and sandpaper during the active phase. For several cycles of applying and washing off the solution, the canvas is transformed.

In pickling, preparations are used that contain particles that are poisonous to humans, therefore, in order to prevent poisoning of the body with chemical vapors, it is recommended to work in open space.

The chemical solutions that are used in fiber softening contain a high percentage of alkali. You can take for this purpose a drug that cleans the oven. After a good rubbing, the layer is washed off, and the cycle is repeated until the desired effect is obtained. After etching, the finishing operations coincide with those that were carried out during machining.

Work with chemicals should be carried out in compliance with personal protective equipment: gloves, goggles, a petal and a protective gown or apron. After the operation, all residues of the substance from the surfaces are washed off under running water.

VIDEO: How to make an antique wood table top with your own hands

Interior and household items decorated with artificially aged wood:

Table and chairs - made of larch

Kitchen. Facade - larch, shelves - pine

When creating an interior, designers are happy to use wood. For some, it allows you to create a certain style concisely and clearly, others can shape the look of the space, paying attention to small details and nuances.

Rural life, which received the French name Provence (literally provincial), has been adopted as a fashionable trend in the design of living space. It can use motifs from France. However, not many people know that there was not that elegance that they talk about so much (only in the southern regions can you find exquisite options, the northern regions have always existed much more modestly and poorer). Much more interesting is the German or Russian rural style. They have much more colors, shades and wood products.

Required attributes rural style- these are somewhat rough benches, massive tables, separate stools, cabinets and shelves above them. Ax products were made with a fairly thorough finish. Only time has changed wooden structures. Due to intensive use, the structure appears brighter, the pattern of fibers is more deeply visible.

For boards that have existed for more than one decade, the presence of a silvery coating is characteristic, as well as blackening of individual zones. Time in its own way paints wood that is not protected from precipitation. There are even those who wish to purchase ornamental material, which for a long period served as an auxiliary structure on the site. Old boards are transported hundreds, and sometimes even thousands of kilometers, in order to be used in the hands of a modern master as a semi-antique structural material.

In fact, it is not necessary to look for an old barn in order to make antique furniture from its boards. There are ways by which you can make boards and bars look like they were used in products by a great-grandfather:

  • brushing - this is the name of the method of revealing a deep texture using mechanical action on the surface layer;
  • staining makes it possible to simulate the presence of wood under the influence of precipitation for a long time;
  • roasting and other heat treatment, which creates the effect of using wood after fire exposure;
  • chemical treatment that allows modern furniture to look like it was created a couple of centuries ago.

Most often, not one chosen method of aging is used, but they are combined with each other, achieving an even more noticeable effect of the presence in the room of the 12th ... 19th centuries. It turned out that semi-antique furniture is in demand on the market. Some users say that an ancestor who participated in the Battle of Borodino, or a participant in another historical event, for example, a veteran of the Battle of Kulikovo. Listeners enthusiastically touch the creation of the master of the Middle Ages, admiring how they managed to preserve the product from the depths of centuries.

Brushing - a method of aging wood

Artificial aging is easily performed on coniferous wood. It is distinguished by the presence of soft fibers in the surface layer. You can show the texture by removing some of the soft fibers using a brush with a hard metal bristle (Fig. 1). By repeatedly moving along the fiber, it is easy to remove the soft component. Only structural rigid fragments will remain.

Rice. 1 Metal brush for brushing wood

One or two boards are easy to handle with a similar brush. If you need to prepare a certain amount of wood, then you will have to use the means of mechanization of labor. An electric drill or an angle grinder (grinder) will help here. A mechanical radial brush is installed on them (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2 Mechanical brushes: a - for an electric drill; b - for an angle grinder (grinder)

Attention! Mechanical end brushes for electric drills and grinders can only be useful for processing the ends of bars and boards. When working, you need to use protective equipment: gloves, respirators and goggles, preferably a mask.

Before brushing, all lumber should be planed. Many people think this requirement for preparation is superfluous, in fact, the craftsmen have always respected their work, as well as the people for whom they made pieces of furniture. Always used planed boards and bars. Some carpenters were able to use an ax to give blanks such a look that other contemporaries will not be able to do even with the help of modern planers or machine tools.

The process is performed in the following sequence:

  1. The board (bar) is fixed on the desktop (workbench). It is convenient to use a comb or a fixing wedge here;
  2. Turn on the power tool and brush along the fiber, moving towards the stop.
  3. When working, they try not to press hard from above, the brush itself will choose what it can remove from the surface.

After three or four passes, examine the result. There is no need to overdo it here. Having received a depth of only 0.4 ... 0.6 mm, you should stop. The process has been started. After a couple of days, the grooves themselves will deepen, as there has been a destruction in the structure of the wood. The visible effect can only be enhanced by subsequent treatment with varnishes or oils.

Antique wood painting

Probably everyone has seen that old boards have a grayish coating, giving them the appearance of light silvering. With the help of paints, you can give a similar color to any wooden product. Acrylic paints are used for this (Fig. 3). But they are white. Therefore, tinting paste is added to them (Fig. 4). By changing the concentration of color, you can achieve different shades of gray.

Rice. 4 Coloring paste for coloring wood

In practice, furniture makers also use more complex methods of coloring to give the tree an old look. There is a method called patination. The effect of this treatment is not to apply a continuous coating, but only a bronze film coating. With this treatment, shiny bronze fragments appear. On fig. 5 shows one of the ways to patinate wood. In addition to applying a bronze (gold) hue, additives were used that create the effect of antiquity. Craquelures are macro-irregularities specially created on the surface.

Rice. 5 Patinated facade fragment

To give the products the look of an old tree, it is not necessary to paint the products completely and cover them with opaque paint. In practice, varnishes are used, which, after being applied to the surface, are covered with a fine mesh.

By combining transparent and opaque finishes, you can achieve the effect of aging wood to such an extent that it will seem that this furniture came from a distant past (Fig. 6). Here there is patination of individual fragments, there is also varnishing, which gave the look of antiques.

Rice. 6 Antique bedside table

Antique wood burning

Heat treatment opens up enormous possibilities. With its help, the tree is applied:

  • its unique pattern, because any cut is created by nature, which never repeats itself in anything;
  • during firing, the shades change, the appearance of coal particles gives more expressiveness to the wood;
  • using old boards from which the fire method was removed old paint, achieve real aging of the product for several decades.

Firing is carried out using the tools presented in the table.

Antique wood processing

Chemical preparations: alkalis and acids, give the new wood an aged look. For acid treatment, sulfuric acid for batteries is used (Fig. 8). When exposed to the product, even on hard grades, deep stripes of texture appear. This method is used for oak, walnut, ash. You have to use concentrated acid with a density of 1.42 g/cm 3 . An acid of lower density works through the texture more slowly.

Upon completion of the treatment, it is necessary to neutralize the action of the acid, therefore, a solution of caustic soda is used or spilled with a solution of baking soda. Then you need a long exposure to water.

Rice. 8 Sulfuric acid

An excellent effect for a tree is given by processing in a solution of copper sulphate. For such an operation, plastic sewer pipes. The bottom hole is closed with a cork, and then boards or bars are placed inside. Then a solution of ten percent strength of copper sulphate is poured. The duration of exposure depends on the type of wood. To get the look of a driftwood, you have to withstand up to a week. Even soft varieties: pine, spruce, acquire high hardness and resistance to decay. The wood darkens, becomes brown. Looks impressive on finished products.

On fig. 9 shows furniture elements made by modern semi-antique craftsmen. During processing, all the described methods were used. Products look quite interesting.

Rice. 9 Modern antique furniture

Video: Facade patination. Master class from an Italian