Burnt wood for decoration: advantages and do-it-yourself manufacturing. Wood aging techniques: brushing and firing

V modern construction wood is usually treated with chemicals. But after all, houses were built of wood before, and some of them still stand to this day. We invite you to get acquainted with the method of processing wood by firing and find out what is the advantage of this method.

How does firing affect wood?

As the subcortical layers of the tree grow, year after year, its fibrous cells die off due to the formation of pores. The high porosity, in particular, explains the hygroscopicity of wood - its ability to absorb and release water molecules, depending on the difference between its own humidity and the water vapor content in the surrounding air.

The structure of wood fibers is always uneven: in the process of life, cellulose polymers of varying degrees of stability are formed in the tree, as well as sugars and resins of various types. It is the presence of pores and organic nutrient residues that determine the main disadvantages of wood: combustibility and the presence of a nutrient medium for the development of bacteria and fungi.

The ability to "seal" wood from the influences of the outside world still exists. It is used during the creosote cooking of wood or in the process of autoclave heating (thermolysis). When heated to 300-400 ° C, almost all unstable hemicellulose formations are destroyed, and it is they that serve as both a “launching pad” for igniting a tree (forming the primary volume of flammable pyrolysis gases) and an initial nutrient medium for the development of colonies of harmful organisms.

At home, such wood processing is incredibly difficult to reproduce. But it is quite possible to partially clog the internal pores and remove most of the unstable cellulose polymers. Even surface firing can heat the outer layer (5-20 mm) of wood enough to melt lignin and resins and form an inorganic crust that protects against most external influences. After proper firing, wood is almost impossible to re-ignite without intense and prolonged heating to 500-700 °C. At the same time, residual heat kills microorganisms that remain in the thickness of the tree, and the sintered outer layer does not allow the penetration of pathogenic organic matter from the outside.

Decorative value of burnt wood

Much more interesting is the visual effect of wood burning. It was thanks to him that processing technology was born in Japan. wooden beams under the fancy name "Shu-Sugi-Ban", and the meticulousness of the Japanese to the interior design of dwellings is well known to everyone.

The appearance of wood treated in this way directly depends on the technique and depth of firing, and there are three types of them. The first - surface firing - allows you to create a brown-brown surface with a golden sheen, on which a wooden texture appears quite contrastingly. The chemical and biological resistance of such wood is not high enough, therefore, surface-fired products are used, as a rule, in interior decoration. Due to the fact that the impact on the structure of the tree is minimal, because the firing affects only 2-5 mm under the surface, Decoration Materials they can maintain their lightness, that is, it is quite possible to process ordinary lining in this way.

Deep firing wood is used for older lumber, often boards and beams that have already been in use. This technique helps to “renew” the wood: remove the dried surface gray layer and warm up the entire thickness of the wood with high quality. Due to this, the surface acquires a very expressive appearance: from iridescent graphite to jet black imitation of rare noble rocks. Perhaps, such a depth of black cannot be achieved by other methods, which is why deep-burned wood is so highly valued by designers.

The third degree of wood processing is its complete burning. Actually, it ceases to be a tree at all, turning, in fact, into a polymer-carbon plastic. At home, unfortunately, it is almost impossible to perform full firing: during the charring time, the fire will have time to eat almost half the thickness of the workpiece. Such a tree is used primarily in the manufacture of furniture. The technique guarantees the absolute uniqueness of each product, because the characteristic pattern and the resulting splits cannot be reproduced again.

What species and what type of wood is best to burn

Any wood is generally suitable for firing, but connoisseurs of subtle visual delights will most of all like rocks with an expressive and unusual texture. The original technology of Japanese origin originally used exclusively cedar. Burnt hornbeam and beech boards have an interesting look: due to the high density of such a tree, only its top layer burns through, due to which anthracite and gray overflows of color are achieved.

More popular valuable species such as alder, maple and poplar, after firing, show an elongated texture, and walnut or larch can form additional finer textured patterns. Burnt birch will be appreciated by lovers of baths or saunas: due to firing, its surface becomes very porous and acquires a low heat capacity, therefore, after heating, it does not burn the skin.

It is also surprising that, depending on the degree of roasting and the origin of the wood, even the same breed can manifest itself in completely different ways. To the use of burnt wood in decorative trim a thorough approach should be taken: stock up on samples different types from different sources and, after a series of experiments, come to a definite choice.

Remember also that the wood must be properly prepared before firing. It should have a low humidity, preferably no more than 12-13%, and also be natural, that is, without traces of painting and opening with drying oil. Otherwise, the absorbed resinous substances will appear unevenly on the surface and ruin the appearance. Of course, here much depends on the depth and time of processing by fire.

Roasting on coals in the field

The easiest way to do fireworking is best for deep firing. processed in this way decorative beams, as well as wood siding and block house for exterior finish. Due to deep heating, the wood becomes immune to atmospheric influences, and the influence of sunlight does not affect it at all.

For firing on coals, a narrow ditch should be dug, about 30 cm deep and wide, corresponding to the dimensions of the workpieces. A fire is made in the ditch, and as the fire burns, the firewood is constantly stirred, achieving their rapid charring. After that, the ditch must be covered with either sheet metal or a strip of OSB in order to temporarily prevent the access of oxygen and stop combustion.

Before laying the workpiece in the coals, it is necessary to rake the central furrow so that during firing, not only the lower part is processed, but also small areas On the sides. The exposure of the workpiece depends on the thickness and can range from two to three to fifteen minutes. After that, the workpiece is turned over to the opposite side, and then, after maintaining the same period of time, it is burnt on the sides.

It will be easier to remove the workpiece with a pair of hooks from steel wire. After the tree is removed from the coals, it is immediately doused with water.

How to burn wood with a gas burner

Using gas burners is not an example easier. These can be either hand-held camping lamps or conventional nozzles connected to the cylinder via a hose.

It is convenient to treat wood with gas only by surface firing. Deeper exposure to the fire will not be uniform enough, resulting in the article having variable thickness and width. In addition, gas for deep heating will require quite a lot, while coals cost almost nothing.

During surface treatment of wood, they touch the very edge of a light blue torch. The movements are conditionally the same as when painting. At the same time, it is quite easy to control the firing depth according to the degree of darkening.

The firing is followed by wetting, but in this case an ordinary hand sprayer will suffice. It is important that the time interval between fire treatment and water spray is the same for all areas of each part, so work consistently.

Burnt wood finishing

After the wood has cooled, soot and soot are removed from it. Brass wire brushes are used for this, so as not to peel off the excess. In the course of machining, invoicing or so-called artificial aging wood.

Cleaned products can be mounted immediately. Additional processing is needed not so much to protect the structure of the tree, but to preserve its color and appearance as a whole years later, as well as to eliminate soiling. For interior decoration lining is covered with linseed or hemp oil in several layers. Wood for the facade and other external works is covered 1-2 times with a colorless nitrocellulose varnish with the addition of synthetic wax: either with a brush along the fibers, or with a spray gun.

Despite the century with perfect technologies and progress in development, wooden housing is more relevant than ever. Also successful and various elements wood decor.

One of the most recent innovations is the burning of wood, which fits well into the most diverse interior design. At first glance, some may say that this technology is somewhat absurd. Nevertheless, due to its uniqueness and originality, it is quite successfully used and continues to gain popularity year after year.

Benefits of technology for the average consumer

Despite the fact that in Europe and, for example, in Japan, this original technology has been known for a long time, in Russia they learned about it relatively recently.

It is worth noting that it is quickly gaining popularity in the line of extraordinary arrangements for both interior and exterior decoration, and there are many reasons for this:

It is surprising that during firing it is possible to paint wood in various unique shades, and for example, with the help of paints, these results, if they can be achieved, are only at great expense and with the help of specialists.

What is the firing technology based on?

In total, there are three principles of burning wood:

  • Surface treatment.
  • Full.
  • Deep.

Full processing is more suitable for large-scale volumes. For its implementation, the wood is loaded into vacuum furnaces, the temperature in which is very high and sometimes reaches 400 degrees.

It should immediately be noted that such a technology is rare, because due to the influence of such high temperatures any tree loses its original strength.

As for another processing option, deep, it is carried out in open furnaces. The wood in these kilns is burned for some time and then stewed under the pressure of water. Tellingly, this method allows the material to burn through up to 20 mm, and despite this, it remains as strong as it was originally.

In this case, there is also a negative side. Since this technique does not create a very presentable appearance, it is rarely used.

As for the third option, it rightfully belongs to the most popular, especially among home use. For example, with the help of it, furniture and other interior details are fired.

This type of wood processing is carried out using a conventional spray can with a special nozzle, or a blowtorch. On average, the burn depth does not exceed 4 mm, and after the procedure, the wood is polished, as a result of which the final result acquires not only beautiful textural outlines, but also durability and durability.

Roasting at home

Wood burning is an easy procedure, even under home conditions:

To begin with, a thorough preparation of wood for the process is carried out. To do this, rid the surface of the material of excess moisture and dust and grind it.

Especially carefully it is necessary to check the wood for moisture, because due to excess moisture, the material during the firing procedure can become stained and striped and, accordingly, lose part of its attractive appearance and strength.

It is best to work with the material that has just been processed and has retained its texture pattern and color patterns. If he managed to darken, then it is recommended to process it again with a planer or sandpaper.

Important! Do not use for firing any wood that has been treated with materials such as drying oil and putty. The fact is that when heated, these materials contribute to the appearance of stains with a dirty tint, and the natural layers of wood and texture patterns are simply not determined.

Before proceeding with the procedure, the burner must be adjusted to such an extent until the flame itself becomes bluish and oblong.

If soot has accumulated in it, then the flame will be uneven with a yellowish tint and, as a result, the firing procedure will become unproductive.

It must be understood that not the flame itself, but only its top contributes to the necessary firing. Because only it has the highest temperature. Professionals in this business strongly recommend to beginners not to jeopardize furniture designs until the necessary skills have been developed on various scraps. Firstly, in this case, you can slowly set up the burner, and secondly, get the necessary experience.

Rules for firing furniture

When you want something new, but there is either no money for it, or just a desire to do it yourself, then the burnt wood in the interior is the most best option choice. For example, if unnecessary furniture is lying around in a house or closet, the same chest of drawers, you can decorate it yourself in this original way.

For this procedure you will need:

  • Acrylic paint with a brush.
  • Roasting tool. For example a burner.
  • Metal brush.
  • Sanding machine.
  • The required number of handles covered with bronze.
  • The pine chest of drawers.

To begin with, after setting the burner, the firing procedure of the entire surface is carried out. After that, it is necessary to carefully get rid of the formed burning with the help of a grinding machine and a brush for metal.

Due to the fact that pine has both hard and soft fibers, a fairly presentable and unique pattern on the relief is achieved during processing.

The next step is getting rid of dust, after which the chest of drawers is painted acrylic paint, but in principle you can use any other, for example, HF or a latex analogue.

The most diverse color schemes can be chosen, but if we start from the most suitable for pine, then it is worth focusing on ivory and the paint is applied strictly along the existing fibers. Otherwise, there is a high probability that some of the relief parts of the surface simply will not be painted.

After that, it is worth waiting until the paint is absorbed and dried, and then re-treat the surface with a grinder, due to which the applied paint will remain only in the recesses formed.

In order to show the structure of the wood on the material, it should be sanded slowly and in a delicate manner.

In conclusion, you should provide the chest of drawers with handles. In the condition of tinted bronze, this type of decor will finally distinguish the chest of drawers from any other furniture in the interior.

How to make burnt wood original

In order to make the product more attractive in terms of external characteristics, before applying varnish to it, it can be slightly shaded with an aniline dye.

There are plenty of options for such decor. For example, for a matte shade, a small amount of a special wax-based color should be added to the varnish before application.

Do not confuse! In no case should natural wax be used for this treatment, since it will not lose its sticky properties after processing. Before adding technical wax to the varnish, it dissolves in turpentine, heated to 40-45 degrees.

Together, wood treated with varnish and passed through the fire becomes, first of all, durable and at the same time beautiful and original.

If the facade is finished in this way, then the minimum time of its service is from 4 to 6 years, and when finishing interior items within 9-12.

Video: firing wood in the interior

In modern construction, it is customary to treat wood with chemicals. But after all, houses were built of wood before, and some of them still stand to this day. We invite you to get acquainted with the method of processing wood by firing and find out what is the advantage of this method.

How does firing affect wood?

As the subcortical layers of the tree grow, year after year, its fibrous cells die off due to the formation of pores. The high porosity, in particular, explains the hygroscopicity of wood - its ability to absorb and release water molecules, depending on the difference between its own humidity and the water vapor content in the surrounding air.

The structure of wood fibers is always uneven: in the process of life, cellulose polymers of varying degrees of stability are formed in the tree, as well as sugars and resins of various types. It is the presence of pores and organic nutrient residues that determine the main disadvantages of wood: combustibility and the presence of a nutrient medium for the development of bacteria and fungi.

The ability to "seal" wood from the influences of the outside world still exists. It is used during the creosote cooking of wood or in the process of autoclave heating (thermolysis). When heated to 300-400 ° C, almost all unstable hemicellulose formations are destroyed, and it is they that serve as both a “launching pad” for igniting a tree (forming the primary volume of flammable pyrolysis gases) and an initial nutrient medium for the development of colonies of harmful organisms.

At home, such wood processing is incredibly difficult to reproduce. But it is quite possible to partially clog the internal pores and remove most of the unstable cellulose polymers. Even surface firing can heat the outer layer (5-20 mm) of wood enough to melt lignin and resins and form an inorganic crust that protects against most external influences. After proper firing, wood is almost impossible to re-ignite without intense and prolonged heating to 500-700 °C. At the same time, residual heat kills microorganisms that remain in the thickness of the tree, and the sintered outer layer does not allow the penetration of pathogenic organic matter from the outside.

Decorative value of burnt wood

Much more interesting is the visual effect of wood burning. It was thanks to him that the technology for processing wooden beams under the bizarre name "Shu-Sugi-Ban" was born in Japan, and the meticulousness of the Japanese in the interior design of dwellings is well known to everyone.

The appearance of wood treated in this way directly depends on the technique and depth of firing, and there are three types of them. The first - surface firing - allows you to create a brown-brown surface with a golden sheen, on which a wooden texture appears quite contrastingly. The chemical and biological resistance of such wood is not high enough, therefore, surface-fired products are used, as a rule, in interior decoration. Due to the fact that the impact on the structure of the tree is minimal, because firing affects only 2-5 mm under the surface, finishing materials can retain their lightness, that is, it is quite possible to process ordinary lining in this way.

Deep firing wood is used for older lumber, often boards and beams that have already been in use. This technique helps to “renew” the wood: remove the dried surface gray layer and warm up the entire thickness of the wood with high quality. Due to this, the surface acquires a very expressive appearance: from iridescent graphite to jet-black imitation of rare noble rocks. Perhaps, such a depth of black cannot be achieved by other methods, which is why deep-burned wood is so highly valued by designers.

The third degree of wood processing is its complete burning. Actually, it ceases to be a tree at all, turning, in fact, into a polymer-carbon plastic. At home, unfortunately, it is almost impossible to perform full firing: during the charring time, the fire will have time to eat almost half the thickness of the workpiece. Such a tree is used primarily in the manufacture of furniture. The technique guarantees the absolute uniqueness of each product, because the characteristic pattern and the resulting splits cannot be reproduced again.

What species and what type of wood is best to burn

Any wood is generally suitable for firing, but connoisseurs of subtle visual delights will most of all like rocks with an expressive and unusual texture. The original technology of Japanese origin originally used exclusively cedar. Burnt hornbeam and beech boards have an interesting look: due to the high density of such a tree, only its top layer burns through, due to which anthracite and gray overflows of color are achieved.

More popular valuable species such as alder, maple and poplar, after firing, show an elongated texture, and walnut or larch can form additional finer textured patterns. Burnt birch will be appreciated by lovers of baths or saunas: due to firing, its surface becomes very porous and acquires a low heat capacity, therefore, after heating, it does not burn the skin.

It is also surprising that, depending on the degree of roasting and the origin of the wood, even the same breed can manifest itself in completely different ways. The use of burnt wood in decorative finishes should be carefully approached: stock up on samples of different types from different sources and, after a series of experiments, come to a definite choice.

Remember also that the wood must be properly prepared before firing. It should have a low humidity, preferably no more than 12-13%, and also be natural, that is, without traces of painting and opening with drying oil. Otherwise, the absorbed resinous substances will appear unevenly on the surface and ruin the appearance. Of course, here much depends on the depth and time of processing by fire.

Roasting on coals in the field

The easiest way to do fireworking is best for deep firing. Decorative beams are processed in this way, as well as wooden siding and a block house for exterior decoration. Due to deep heating, the wood becomes immune to atmospheric influences, and the influence of sunlight does not affect it at all.

For firing on coals, a narrow ditch should be dug, about 30 cm deep and wide, corresponding to the dimensions of the workpieces. A fire is made in the ditch, and as the fire burns, the firewood is constantly stirred, achieving their rapid charring. After that, the ditch must be covered with either sheet metal or a strip of OSB in order to temporarily prevent the access of oxygen and stop combustion.

Before laying the workpiece in the coals, it is necessary to rake the central furrow so that during firing, not only the lower part is processed, but also small areas on the sides. The exposure of the workpiece depends on the thickness and can range from two to three to fifteen minutes. After that, the workpiece is turned over to the opposite side, and then, after maintaining the same period of time, it is burnt on the sides.

It will be easier to remove the workpiece with a pair of steel wire hooks. After the tree is removed from the coals, it is immediately doused with water.

How to burn wood with a gas burner

Using gas burners is not an example easier. These can be either hand-held camping lamps or conventional nozzles connected to the cylinder via a hose.

It is convenient to treat wood with gas only by surface firing. Deeper exposure to the fire will not be uniform enough, resulting in the article having variable thickness and width. In addition, gas for deep heating will require quite a lot, while coals cost almost nothing.

During surface treatment of wood, they touch the very edge of a light blue torch. The movements are conditionally the same as when painting. At the same time, it is quite easy to control the firing depth according to the degree of darkening.

The firing is followed by wetting, but in this case an ordinary hand sprayer will suffice. It is important that the time interval between fire treatment and water spray is the same for all areas of each part, so work consistently.

Burnt wood finishing

After the wood has cooled, soot and soot are removed from it. Brass wire brushes are used for this, so as not to peel off the excess. In the course of mechanical processing, texturing or the so-called artificial aging of wood can also be carried out.

Cleaned products can be mounted immediately. Additional processing is needed not so much to protect the structure of the tree, but to preserve its color and appearance as a whole years later, as well as to eliminate soiling. For interior decoration, the lining is covered with linseed or hemp oil in several layers. Wood for the facade and other external works is covered 1-2 times with a colorless nitrocellulose varnish with the addition of synthetic wax: either with a brush along the fibers, or with a spray gun.

Do. One of the important positive properties of wood is the mass of options for finishing its surface. Each method gives unique effect, and it can be matched to any image and style.

This material is durable: furniture made of natural wood with proper care, it lasts for many years - tens, or even hundreds. And wood does not lose its beauty over time - on the contrary, like cognac, it can become even more interesting.

Time-worn charm wooden surface so much so that there is a whole trend in the production of furniture - artificial aging. In previous publications on this topic (and) we talked about how you can age furniture with varnishes and paints. In this material, we will consider how to give the surface of a tree a more respectable look by mechanical means.

brushing

The wood is heterogeneous in its composition: annual rings are visible on the saw cut of the tree. The number of circles determines age, and their width depends on many reasons: breed, nutritional conditions, weather, location (in the sun or in the shade). Annual rings are wider in young trees - they grow more actively. The size of the rings is also affected by whether a particular tree has grown from a seed (narrower) or root shoots.


The light and wider section of the ring is an increase in the first half of the active vegetation period (spring and early summer), thin and dark - what has grown over the second half of summer and autumn. All together represents the growth of one year.

At the beginning of summer, a looser conductive tissue is formed. From the second half, solid cells grow that can withstand mechanical stress - they give the tree stability. The pattern of annual rings is also visible on the longitudinal cut of the tree.

Over time, wood breaks down. Especially if the board or wood product is in the open air - under the influence of the sun, rain, frost and wind. Light soft areas are destroyed faster, so over time the surface of the wood becomes uneven, ribbed.


In order to achieve such a result, it is not necessary to wait many years, keeping the tree under the sun and wind. Wood can be aged brushing.

The process consists in the mechanical removal of softer fibers. To do this, use hard brushes (in English brush - brush). Depending on the required degree of aging, tools of various hardness are used: metal, nylon, sisal. A combination of them is possible: a metal brush is used for deeper and rougher processing, and a nylon and then sisal surface is treated to remove burrs.


In addition to nozzles for a drill or an angle grinder (angle grinder, "grinder"), it is worth getting a hand tool - an abrasive skin of different grain sizes, a manual cord brush. It is also convenient to use abrasive sponges: the flexible surface allows you to remove splinters from the recesses.

Regardless of the choice, during work, the direction of movement should be taken into account: it should be along the fibers of the wood. Therefore, brush attachments for power tools need flat, and not in the form of a cup.

Before starting the aging process, practice on a sample.
With the help of various brushes, it is possible to imitate not only atmospheric aging (exposure to wind, sun), but also the effect of a piece of wood run in water - such can be found on the banks of a river or sea. In this case, the wood is processed more deeply, and "traces of time" can be not only along the fibers. An example of such aging is the box in the photo below.


Wood aging. Photo from o-drevesine.ru

In addition to the mechanical method (with brushes), the wood is textured using chemistry or sandblasting. The principle is the same: softer parts are removed.

The chemical method uses acids and alkalis that can corrode organic matter, such as sulfuric or nitric acid. You can experiment with aggressive household chemicals designed to remove stubborn dirt. Chemical treatment is used as an independent option or as an initial stage before mechanical cleaning with brushes.


When processing sandblasting machine abrasive particles knock out softer layers. Sandblasting can be found in car repair shops - with the help of such equipment, rust is removed.

Usage different ways brushing allows you to get a different effect. When processing with metal brushes, the relief of wood fibers will be deeper and more pronounced, after chemical etching and sandblasting - smoothed.


After obtaining the required texture, the wood is treated with stains, waxes, glaze coatings, and varnishes. Tinting compositions (stains) stain soft areas more strongly than hard ones. Azure (glazing) additionally emphasizes the relief, accumulating in the recesses.

Burning

The firing of wood is most often considered as the first stage of brushing - just like with chemical etching, softer areas are destroyed (burnt) first.




The wooden surface is burned with a blowtorch or gas burner, and then the charred parts are scraped off, washed with plenty of water and covered with oil. The degree of firing and subsequent brushing depends on preference. You can also choose a blowtorch in our market, for this, look at the products in the selection.

CALIBER Blowtorch CALIBER LP-1.5 1 099 rub
OBI

CALIBER Blowtorch CALIBER LP-1.0 829 rub
OBI

Blow torch "Motor Sich Lp-2M" 950 rub
TENTY.RU


The wood that has gone through fire and water does not need additional toning - the surface of the board takes on a noble dark shade. But if desired, the charred tree can be additionally covered with colored stains. The combination of red and jet black looks especially impressive.


A house lined with burnt boards. Photo from skyhousedesigncentre.com

Firing can be an independent type of finishing. Now this direction is gaining popularity and is considered the Japanese technique of Shou Sugi Ban (Yakisugi), although this method of woodworking is known in many countries. In Russia, burning wood was called smoking.

Fire-treated wood becomes less combustible and is practically not subject to rotting and damage by insects. Therefore, such boards are used for cladding, construction. It is not necessary to regularly paint such a fence or facade - a burnt board does not change its qualities for a hundred years.


Naturally, the designers could not pass by such material. They began to use objects treated with fire in their interiors, to use boards using the Shou Sugi Ban technique of varying degrees of burntness to decorate walls and ceilings. Coated with oil, the surfaces do not get dirty.


Wall cladding in Shou Sugi Ban technique. Photo courtesy urbantimber.ca

Try texturing familiar wood - you may discover a new material for yourself.

Everyone knows that wood cannot be left to itself - under the influence of external forces, it quickly collapses. Impregnation with antiseptics and flame retardants is needed. But there is another effective protection, without the use of "chemistry"

Many centuries ago, our ancestors noticed that if you burn a piece of wood a little, it will become stronger. This technique, called Shou Sugi Ban (“cedar languishing”), is believed to have originated in Japan. Although there is quite reliable data that wood was processed in this way on all continents, including ours. In Russia, pile poles, logs, floorboards, wall cladding and roofing were protected by firing (smoking).

Today, the ancient method of heat treatment of wood is not only not forgotten, but is becoming more and more popular. The development of technology has made it possible to bring it to perfection. The wood is fired with a gas burner/blowtorch or aged in a kiln, resulting in a new, improved material.

Under the influence of high temperatures, all possible "embryos" of decay die. The wood sugar burns out, making the wood unappetizing for woodworms and other harmful microorganisms. The molten resin closes the pores of the material, making it less hygroscopic, or, to put it in simple words ceases to be "afraid" of water.

As strange as it may sound, burned wood becomes refractory. It is almost impossible to re-ignite an already charred board.

But that's not all. In the process of smoking, the tree becomes amazingly beautiful. It darkens, becoming dark chocolate or impenetrable black, and acquires a noble silvery sheen, which cannot be achieved by any paints.

Of course, such interesting characteristics attracted the attention of masters from various fields. Today, burnt wood is used everywhere. It perfectly shows itself both in the decoration of houses (floors, sheathing of walls, ceilings, facades and roofs) and in landscape design(fences, pergolas, gazebos, greenhouses and even framing beds).

Another area of ​​application is furniture industry. The exquisite black color with a pearly sheen has made Shou Sugi Ban wood a favorite material for designers creating high-end home furnishings.

Types of firing

Previously, wood was simply thrown into a fire or kept in primitive ovens. Today, with the help of modern equipment, it is possible to regulate the processing temperature and achieve certain effects.

Firing options

The most popular firing surface . It involves processing with a gas burner or blowtorch. The depth of thermal impact in this case is from 1 to 5 mm.

deep firing produced in an open oven, providing processing of a layer up to 20 mm thick. At the same time, the lumber is not only hardened, but also acquires a deep black color with a graphite sheen.

Full firing produced in industrial vacuum furnaces, at temperatures up to 400ºС. This technology is used quite rarely, as the wood dries out very much and becomes too dense, and therefore prone to splitting. The main area of ​​application of this material is the manufacture of luxury designer furniture.

How to choose the type of wood for firing?

Initially, Shou Sugi Ban assumed the use of only and exclusively cedar. Today, you can burn almost anything, the only question is what effect you want to achieve. So, on soft coniferous varieties (pine, spruce, etc.), a clear large pattern of fibers appears. Beech, hornbeam, walnut, maple and other dense species acquire a uniform dark color with a silver lining. And larch and walnut will surprise you with a bizarre small surface pattern.

Burning wood on a simple open fire is inefficient - the material is covered with too thick a layer of soot

Firing technology

The main advantage of Shou Sugi Ban technology is its availability. Almost anyone can do this job. A gas burner or blowtorch is enough and at least a little experience with these tools.

But before you start firing, the wood needs to be prepared. The surface must be smooth and clean. If there are traces on the board old paint, oils and other contaminants, they must be removed, otherwise after heat treatment they will turn into indelible stains.

It is very important to check the moisture content of the wood. The moisture concentration in the material should not exceed 13-15%, otherwise spots and stains will appear on the surface of the board after firing.

Freshly planed wood is best suited for firing. If the material has been stored for a long time, has darkened and become porous, it must be sanded before heat treatment.

When processing, the boards are touched with the edge of the torch, holding it perpendicular to the surface. It is very important to ensure that the wood is charred evenly, that is, the change in tone is uniform throughout the length of the board.

After firing, the surface is moistened with water from a spray gun, wiped dry, and after the wood has completely cooled, the carbon deposits are brushed off. If you take a tool with not synthetic, but with metal bristles, you can at the same time age (brush) the wood, making its texture more clear and expressive.

As mentioned above, burnt wood does not need to be impregnated with any protective preparations. But if you want to maximize the life of a material that is used in harsh conditions (for example, on facades), you can resort to "chemistry". There are quite a few options: linseed and hemp oil, nitrocellulose or urea-formaldehyde varnish, synthetic wax. But the easiest way is to purchase a special oil-wax composition for wood impregnation at a hardware store.

Burnt wood retains its strength and attractive appearance for 80 years and even more. She does not require tedious care. It is only necessary to occasionally clean the surface and renew the impregnation every 3-4 years, if any.