A correctly drawn up scheme for planting vegetables in the garden and a competent plan for placing crops in the country are one of the main components of spring events. When planning planting garden plants in a summer cottage, it is very important to take into account crop rotation, or the so-called alternation of all grown vegetable crops.
Decorative and classic types of beds
Today, in the conditions of home gardening the arrangement of several types of classical ridges is practiced:
- vertical structures allow you to decorate unattractive walls or fences, minimize plant-to-soil contact, reduce the risk of fungal diseases and reduce the growth of weeds. The disadvantages include the limited amount of soil and the need to apply frequent top dressing and irrigation measures. Among other things, such ridges are not suitable for growing perennial crops that can freeze in winter period;
- deep structures gained particular popularity in recent years. Such a ridge is a platform standard sizes, represented by soil dug twice with manure or good compost to a depth of a couple of shovel bayonets. Such a bed does not require digging for three to five years, and it is possible to loosen, water, weed and lime the earth from the paths laid along it;
- high structures convenient in terms of processing crops of vegetable crops. When arranging, a trench is dug 30-40 cm deep. Branches and paper, as well as plant waste should be placed in the dug trench, after which layers of fertile soil are filled up and lightly tamped. The edging of a high structure can be done with both wooden boards and slate or any other material at hand;
- warm designs a bit like high ridges. A ridge is dug up a meter wide and of arbitrary length. A layer of fresh cow dung is laid on the dug up surface, after which fertile land is covered. The surface must be shed with plenty of warm water and covered with black polyethylene or non-woven material. Vegetables are planted in specially made slots.
Site planning according to the Mittlider method (video)
Decorative ridges can give originality to a personal plot. A striking example is unusual shape or fences from beautiful materials. You can draw up a plan for the location of such structures online using special programs. Such a computer drawing up of a scheme-plan is within the power of even non-experienced amateur vegetable growers.
Requirements for beds for vegetable crops
When planning vegetable beds, you need to remember that such structures in without fail must be sufficiently dry and even. It is also impossible to allocate areas shaded by trees or buildings for garden ridges. The right bed should be well warmed up by the sun's rays. Experienced gardeners recommend breaking up the ridges in areas in the direction from north to south. A good result is the arrangement of ridges with low sides that prevent shedding and help retain moisture during irrigation.
On gentle sections of the ridge, it is recommended to break and equip directly across the slope. If there are too large slopes, it is advisable to make special terraces, which are reinforced with wooden planks, logs or sheet slate. Such planting areas allow you to protect the soil and grown plants from strong flood waters or heavy rains.
Currently very popular the following options for the location of garden beds:
- geometric arrangement of square, rectangular or elongated ridges in a parallel and perpendicular direction;
- radial arrangement in spacious areas with planting garden crops with peculiar rays in a circle;
- corner non-standard location;
- spiral arrangement or rockeries that can decorate any landscape and are optimally suited for cultivation garden strawberries or other undersized berries.
The shape of vegetable ridges can be completely different. Experienced gardeners prefer to break up a backyard or country cottage area on fairly even, rectangular or square-shaped ridges. To give the garden an original exterior, ridges can be made round, oval, triangular or any other shape. In any case, when planning the location of the ridges, it is necessary to be guided not only by desires and personal preferences, but also take into account the features of the relief.
Scheme for planting vegetables in the garden: basic rules
In the process of choosing a place and a scheme for growing vegetables on a personal plot It is recommended to follow the following rules:
- growing dill, lettuce and radish does not have to be done in an ordinary way. Such garden crops are able to give a fairly high yield when planted as a compactor for other vegetables. This planting allows you to get an aesthetic design of the garden and significantly save free space. personal plot;
- beets, radishes, turnips, carrots and other root crops can be planted on the sides of the beds. Thus it is possible to get beautiful frame for other garden crops, without inhibiting their growth and development. In the process of designing a garden plot, crop rotation rules must be taken into account, so the same crop cannot be grown in one place for several years in a row;
- climbing plants such as peas, beans or beans are allowed to be planted as a border design for large ridges. Landing is carried out on the north side of the main vegetable crop, which will not allow curly lashes to block sunlight;
- under the pumpkin, squash and zucchini, it is best to allocate separate ridges, which is due to the rapid growth of the plant and the spread over almost the entire free space.
It is also very important to observe the distance between crops in a row and the spacing between rows when planting seedlings and sowing.
Mixed plantings: bed layout (video)
Crop rotation in the garden: how to plant vegetables
One of the simplest and most popular solutions for crop rotation in home gardening, is based on the division of vegetable garden crops into several main groups:
- leaf group - cabbage, leafy lettuce, green onions, sorrel and spinach;
- the fruit group is represented by tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, squash, eggplant and pumpkin;
- a group of root crops represented by radishes, beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes;
- a group of legumes, represented by beans, beans, lentils,.
The correct alternation of such plants in the backyard and garden plot should be carried out as follows:
- in the first year, fruits are grown on the first bed, root crops on the second, legumes on the third, leafy on the fourth;
- in the second year, fruits are transferred to the fourth bed, root crops - to the first, legumes - to the second, leafy - to the third;
- in the third year, root crops are transferred to the fourth bed, and so on.
No less popular is a crop rotation depending on the indicators of the exactingness of garden plants to soil fertility:
- high exactingness rates are typical for aster, pumpkin and cabbage;
- the average degree of exactingness is characteristic of nightshade;
- slight exactingness is characteristic of amaranth, amaryllis and umbrella;
- legumes are capable of enriching the soil composition.
Nightshade crops are represented by potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and bell pepper. The umbrella or celery category includes dill, carrots and parsley. The most popular amaranth fruits are beets and spinach.. The pumpkin family is represented by cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin, watermelons and melons.
Popular cabbages or cruciferous are all types of cabbage, radishes and watercress. Legumes that enrich the soil are peas and beans, while sunflowers belong to the Asteraceae family.
Crop rotation of vegetable crops (video)
Even on small ridges, you can get a decent yield. Proper and timely planning of plantings and crops, as well as compliance with crop rotation, is a prerequisite for obtaining the highest and highest quality harvest from household and garden plots that are insignificant in size.
Agrotechnics of such agriculture is aimed at respect for the earth, as to a living organism, to improve fertility due to the return of organic matter, green manure, mulching, crop rotation, as well as to obtain natural, environmentally friendly safe products nutrition without the use of chemical fertilizers and plant protection products.
And the technologists of organic farming promise us large yields with less labor costs than in classical farming.
But is everything as simple as the leading masters and propagandists of organic farming tell us?
Organic farming in the country
When we first decided to put organic farming into practice in the country, we were naive people, like everyone else, we needed the same safe food, and at the same time we had little free time, but a great desire to grow plants. Therefore, we shoveled through a lot of literature to find out what it is: organic farming in the country and where to start mastering it. All this we had to understand and comprehend. And we immediately set to work on an exciting and good thing: organic farming from scratch.
They took for use 12 acres of land near Odessa, which no one had cultivated for several years. Of these, 2 acres were under trees and shrubs, 1 acre was under strawberries, and the remaining 9 acres were densely covered with weeds, so virgin lands had to be developed. Ahead of us shone a noble goal: we are implementing a careful and love relationship to the land, which is called in the literature "Organic farming in the country".
First, weeds were mowed, then the site was planned, dividing it into paths and beds. On the beds, surface treatment (loosening) was carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm, as recommended in books. Sowed seeds, planted seedlings and mulched.
Plantings were, as expected, thickened and planned taking into account the allelopathic properties of neighboring plants. A week later, the first shoots appeared, and then the weeds, which had to be broken through manually, since Fokin's flat cutter did not work on the mulch. And so several times a season.
We spent a lot of time and effort, but there was no result. Of those planted, about 7% of cultivated plants survived, which, to put it mildly, gave a modest harvest, or rather, there was almost none (not counting 5 carrots and 5 watermelons weighing 100 g each).
Nevertheless, we continued to work, as we fell in love with working on the ground and in the fresh air. And the experience gained was very useful.
Today we practice organic farming in the country on two hectares of land, where we harvest tons. We also maintain several forest garden nurseries. We work according to the system of "Organic agroforestry-horticulture".
And the question "how to grow?" is no longer relevant, now the question is “what to do with the harvest?”
Well, now we will tell you everything in order, how you really need to start organic farming in the country from scratch, and not what they say in books or at seminars. In life, it turns out, not quite the same as on the pages of books. But how does everything actually happen in organic farming?
Harvest of Alexei and Nadezhda Chernyavsky Myths of organic farming
1: "The earth cannot be stirred."
We have called the process by which the earth does not turn 'the feralization of the soil'. And this means that so many insects, animals and weeds start up in it that they do not allow more than a single cultivated plant to grow and bear fruit. That's natural farming for you! In addition, if you have virgin soil on your site, then once you have to plow it, since virgin soil cannot be defeated manually. And after the first plowing, you can work the soil superficially. Then there will be watermelons and corn.
Output: a cultivated plant needs cultivated soil and appropriate care!
2: "Mulched plants do not need to be watered."
After a lot of experiments, we came to the conclusion that mulch does retain moisture, but not for long, especially in arid places. Therefore, if you want to get a harvest by practicing organic farming in the country, then moisture-loving plants will have to be watered, even if they are mulched, it just needs to be done less often. .
3: "Mulch all plants so that there is no bare ground in the garden."
In fact, not all plants like mulch. So, for corn, watermelons, melons, peanuts and chufa, mulch is unacceptable. These cultures love "hot and clean land." In addition, corn, peanuts and chufa need hilling, which is very difficult to do if there is mulch on the ground.
Output: using organic farming in the country, it is certainly necessary to mulch, but selectively. Cover the ground only around those plants that really like it (tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries, etc.)
4: "Organic farming for the lazy."
Many have heard the old proverb “Without labor, you can’t even catch a fish from a pond”, no one has yet canceled it. And for people for whom organic farming in the country has become a matter of life, he knows exactly what this proverb is about. As we found out If you want results, then you have to work hard! Loosen beds, plant seeds, extract and lay mulch, break through and weed weeds, hill, stepchild, water, harvest and process crops, in the end, and all this is work! It is worth succumbing to laziness - and you will not see a full-fledged harvest!
Output: Who works, he eats.
5: "Common and dense plantings repel insect pests and attract insect predators » .
Fast, efficient, convenient and environmentally friendly, and therefore safe
Output: You need to combine beds with crops, not crops in the garden.
6: "Biological plant protection products are better and safer than chemical ones."
We do not use either one or the other. To date, humanity is already reaping the benefits of the use of chemistry in agriculture(killed lands, mutant insects, dead bees, food poisoning and allergies in humans, polluted waters of the oceans, etc.). And we still don't know what results biological preparations will bring us, because this is a matter of time. Remember, when chemical remedies appeared on the market, people were very happy about this, it seemed to them that the problem was solved. But they struggled with the consequences, but the cause - monoculture, remained. People rejoice today biological preparations! And what will happen tomorrow?
Output: practicing organic farming in the country, we avoid the use of any drugs.
Chemical and biological means of protection have detrimental consequences for the ecology of the entire planet and every person. No one knows how it will end, not even scientists!
7: "Do this - and everything will be like ours"
Another sophisticated lie that gullible farmers fall for. In the course of our numerous experiments and on the basis of the experience gained, we have come to the conclusion that nothing is the same in nature! And, repeating the experiment, it is unlikely to get exactly the same result. Even on the same bed, with the same agricultural technology, using the same farming, the same fertilizer, mulching, green manure, the same plants bear fruit in different ways.
There are in the world different soils, different climate, microclimate, etc. Even the attitude and mood of the person working with the plant, using exclusively natural farming, plays a huge role and can affect the result! In general, you do not need to wait for the results the same as in the pictures promoting organic farming in the country, and then, if the result does not match, disappointment will not discourage you from moving on!
Love your land, study its specifics and character, observe - and draw your own conclusions with good thoughts. Don't believe, check. And then organic farming in the country will justify itself, and you will definitely succeed!
In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species.
There is always a mixture of herbs in the meadow
, in the forest - not only different species of trees, but also shrubs, herbs, mosses.
Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow.
We can also create a garden in which plants coexist. How to do it? The answer is simple - apply the method of mixed landings. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors, and plan the area in such a way as to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow in large arrays, but in adjacent rows or holes.
There is a lot of information on the internet about this topic... I'll just share my experience...
First of all, you need to choose the main crop, then choose a neighbor who has a beneficial effect on the main plant. For many years I have planted tomatoes and basil and lettuce together... peppers and beets... corn and cucumbers or beans. Tall plants will protect the lower ones from the direct rays of the sun and create a more favorable microclimate for them. You still need to be more careful with corn ... it’s better to plant it or cucumbers separately for seedlings ... one year I planted corn with cucumbers at the same time, but the cucumbers didn’t sprout ... I had to replant, but the corn had already started growing. .. and grew and grew ... in the end - cucumbers remained small and underdeveloped in the shade of corn thickets.
It is worth planting nearby aromatic herbs that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they do not drown out the main culture. Scatter marigolds, calendula, nasturtium throughout the garden-garden. Last year we had an aphid infestation... and only one young seedling was spared. It was a pear under which grew calendula and others. spices...
Consider the timing of the ripening of the crop. If you remove one crop earlier, you should find a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched, green manure is planted. When choosing crops, attention should be paid to reducing competition between them. Plants with a deep root system will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall spreading crops will protect those who love light partial shade from the sun.
Only the water needs of the neighbors should be similar.
For example, early cabbage will be just great next to celery
Just do not confuse - exactly early varieties cabbage... as soon as we harvest the cabbage from mid-July... the celery will spread throughout the garden and will continue to grow until September-October, depending on the climate.
The most popular neighbors in the garden
Tomato - basil... tomato - parsley... tomato - lettuce
Early cabbage - celery ... cabbage - marigolds ... cabbage - nasturtium
Carrots - onions ... carrots - garlic
Potatoes - beans...
However, do not forget that advice is just advice, not a command to action... using this table, you can choose the most convenient combinations for yourself.
Another tip ... make it a rule to keep a record of all the actions performed in the country. I have a cherished notebook where I write down everything I do ... I start with the seeds in stock, then ... what, when and where I planted (seedlings, in a greenhouse, in the garden) ... what and with what I I combined it, and at the end of the season I make a note side by side - did I like it or not ...
This year I decided to keep new statistics for myself in Google spreadsheets... I'll see what happens, I'll start with seeds for now...
And in the treasured notebook I already noted for myself that this year I will plant together:
Eggplant + Vigna (Chinese beans)
... Carrots + tomatoes, + basil (I will not change my observations)
... Corn + pumpkin + cucumbers
... Broccoli + cucumbers + peas
... Pepper + beets (this also remains the same for me)
... leek + beets
... Onions + beets + carrots
... Early cabbage + celery.
I'll be sure to show you in the group how it turned out.
Feel free to share your experience!!! How do you combine landings?!... What conclusions did you draw for yourself?!... Maybe you have the opposite unsuccessful experience combination of landings?!... Be sure to write about it, any of your experience is simply necessary for each of us
Practical knowledge about the mixed planting of vegetables in the beds, the compatibility of garden, garden plants, their influence on each other has been accumulated by many generations of gardeners. What are the advantages of mixed landings? What plants can not be planted next to the beds? How can plants influence each other? What vegetables grow well together? How to choose best neighbors for your plants? What are the benefits of co-planting? We try to learn more about them, to take this knowledge into account in our practice. Sometimes, however, they are quite contradictory.
For example, it seems that there are often assurances of many about the incompatibility of growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse. This is explained by the different requirements of these vegetables to the conditions of detention, temperature regime, humidity. But, nevertheless, for many they get along well with each other. Why is it so? Until now, this controversial question has no definite answer. Is it possible to plant potatoes with cabbage?
Allelopathy - plant compatibility
Let's start with theory.
What is allelopathy? This word is of Greek origin - allēlōn - mutually and páthos - suffering - mutual suffering. This means that plants can influence each other, cause each other suffering, inconvenience. This is the original meaning of the word allelopathy. Now, allelopathy has come to be understood not only as a negative, but also as a positive interaction of plants with each other. Allelopathy refers to the interaction of plants with each other through various secretions - root and leaf.
Plants secrete through the roots various substances, mainly organic - amino acids, sugars, biologically active substances, antibiotics, hormones, enzymes, and others, which can affect neighboring plants, both positively and negatively.
Through the leaves of the plant, various substances are also secreted - most often volatile. But they can also release water-soluble ones, which are washed off by rain or when watered, enter the soil, and have a different effect on neighboring plants.
These properties - the influence on each other - plants acquired during a long evolution, when they grew together in natural conditions. They had to compete, to establish some kind of relationship with each other. It is assumed that this property - allelopathy - is developed by plants in the process of competition for light, water, and nutrients in the soil. In this competitive struggle, plants can even apply chemical protection, that is, they secrete chemical substances: enzymes, vitamins, alkaloids, essential oils, organic acids, phytoncides.
Some of these compounds are similar in properties to herbicides used to kill weeds. These substances, called inhibitors (inhibitors), kill neighboring plants or retard their growth, inhibit seed germination, reduce the intensity of physiological processes and their vital activity.
It is important to note that inhibitors only act negatively when there are many of them. Their small concentrations already act as accelerators of physiological processes, that is, as stimulants.
Mixed plantings - the basis of organic farming
What is written above is rather theoretical information. Can this knowledge be put into practice in our garden?
It is possible, even necessary! They must be taken into account when sowing, planting seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground, since this knowledge has been verified not only by science, but by many generations of gardeners. We will talk further about mixed or joint landings.
Such plantings are part of organic or, as it is also called, biodynamic farming. It is based on working with nature, not against it. The founder of biodynamic agriculture was the famous German philosopher Rudolf Steiner. Now the idea of organic farming is becoming more and more popular all over the world. BUT mixed landings in the gardens, orchards of Europe have long become commonplace.
The reception of joint plantings in the garden for a long time and has been successfully used in Germany. The Germans are very pragmatic in their approach to these things, they believe that it is irrational to lose the area of their personal plots without any purpose. The main thing for them is the amount of production per unit area. They are very proud of the fact that they have learned to get as much benefit from every piece of land as possible. For example, one vegetable plant is planted in the garden, and the sides of the beds are empty - this is a mess. It does not matter what grows on this square - cucumbers or tulips.
In Russia, the reception of mixed, combined landings is not yet very common.
Let's take a closer look at the experience of German gardeners. Optimal Width beds, they say, 1 meter.
The central part of the garden, the middle should be occupied by some kind of main crop. This is the culture that will grow in the garden for a long time, until the end of the season. During this period, it will grow strongly, over time it will occupy the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe garden. For example, it can be cabbage or tomatoes.
But at the beginning of the growing season they are small. The side area of the bed can be planted with something else that quickly ripens. It can be spinach, lettuce, radish - friendly crops. Spinach is generally compatible with almost all crops, it even stimulates the development of neighboring plants.
By the time the tomatoes or kale have grown, the spinach, radish, or lettuce will have been cut, plucked up for food. This is just one of the aspects that speaks in favor of joint landings.
Additional, fast-maturing plants should be small, compact, so that their root system does not interfere with the main crop.
Often joint plantings protect each other from pests. For organic farming, this is very important, as it is against the use of herbicides or other chemical protection products. For such purposes, aromatic plants are most often used - basil, coriander, onion, sage.
Many herbs bring triple benefits: they are beautiful, they enrich our table, they attract beneficial insects to our garden.
It is believed that coriander with its smell can even scare away the Colorado potato beetle from potatoes. But, it should be borne in mind that a lot of such aromatic plants should be planted so that aromatic vapors create a significant cover over the site.
For cabbage, aromatic protection is also important, since it itself attracts various butterflies with its smell. By the way, the Colorado potato beetle, white butterfly find their prey - potatoes, cabbage - by smell. Lettuce or celery planted along the edges of the garden can help protect cabbage from pests. That is, if aromatic herbs are planted nearby, then their smell will kill the smell of potatoes or cabbage, to some extent disorientate pests.
Among gardeners, such a term is common - a nanny plant. It is believed that if you plant nasturtium along the perimeter of the cabbage bed, then the cruciferous flea will first attack the flowers. That is, nasturtium - a nanny for cabbage - distracts pests. By the way, cabbage salad is also somewhat of a babysitter - it distracts slugs, which are very fond of salad, which has more tender juicy leaves than cabbage. And if slugs have a choice, they choose lettuce.
If you want to protect cabbage from slugs, plant lettuce. And how to protect the salad from slugs without resorting to chemistry? This is already more difficult ... It is believed that oak bark, used as mulch, will well protect the salad (and not only it) from slugs.
Gardeners-practitioners have long noticed that neighboring plants can not only compact plantings, protect each other from pests, but also improve each other's taste. For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, while dill improves the taste of cabbage.
Isop, parsley, lavender, sage, borage, thyme, mint, chamomile, chervil work well on almost all vegetables. Planted along the edges of beds or plots, white lamb, deaf nettle, valerian, yarrow make vegetable plants healthier, more resistant to diseases and pests.
Here's something else interesting about mixed plantings. I read this from N. Zhirmunskaya in the book Good and Bad Neighbors in the Garden Bed.
The history of the use of the idea of such landings has more than one century. The ancient Indians grew corn, pumpkin, and beans in the same field. They noticed that corn, for example, creates a shadow, protects the earth and pumpkin from the scorching rays of the sun, and is a good support for beans. Pumpkin covers the ground with its leaves, stifles the growth of weeds, retaining moisture, protects the ground from drying out.
In addition, the ancient Indians did not destroy all weeds, for example, amaranth, quinoa, which are now weeds for us. They let them grow along with the vegetables.
How weeds help garden plants or the benefits of weeds
It turns out that some weeds can benefit cultivated garden plants. Even the ancient Indians noticed that amaranth, a malicious weed in our gardens, can share with some plants the nutrients it receives from the depths of the soil.
There is, for example, such an opinion that one should not weed out all the amaranth on potatoes, leaving 3-5 plants for each square meter. Having no competitors nearby, amaranth grows, its powerful root system, penetrating deep into the soil, extracts nutrients there - phosphorus, potassium, calcium, which are much more at a depth than in the upper layers. Excesses of these elements are released through the roots into the soil, nourish the potatoes. That is, amaranth, as it were, shares these surpluses with potatoes. Moreover, these nutrients are in a digestible form, easily absorbed, absorbed by potatoes.
Agronomists have already established through laboratory experiments that, indeed, plants can share their root secretions with each other. I must say that plants do not skimp on root secretions - this is very important for them. It has been established that approximately 20% of what is synthesized in the leaves of plants is released by their roots into the soil.
IN Lately the issue of the benefits and harms of weeds is being significantly revised. If weeds are not allowed to grow uncontrollably, stifle cultivated plants, especially in the early stages of growth, then they can play the role of a useful member of the plant community.
By the way, I noticed that thistle - a malicious weed - distracts aphids. Cucumbers grew in my greenhouse. They grew well. Were healthy. The harvest was good. Sow thistle grew in the corner of the greenhouse - I did not immediately notice it, Only then I paid attention to it, when it grew over a meter tall, I even threw out the buds. Decided to root it out. She gasped when she saw that he was covered with aphids. Here it is, I think, a breeding ground for pests - it must be destroyed. And what? Not even a day passed after that, as all my, still healthy, cucumbers were covered with aphids. I had to take measures to destroy the aphids. It turns out that sow thistle protected my plants from aphids.
I never pull out all the weeds on tomatoes planted in open ground. I do weeding only in the first growing season, when there is a danger that the weeds will clog the tomatoes and cover them from the sun. But, when my tomatoes gain strength, they are not afraid of weeds. They cover the soil from the burning sun - it does not crust, does not dry out, it can be watered less often. In addition, grass, weeds protect fruits from sunburn, which is very important in our southern hot climate.
Most weeds have deep root systems. In the struggle for existence, they developed the ability to get food deep in the soil. In cultivated plants, which we pamper with our care, this ability is rare.
The most important vegetable plants, such as potatoes, corn, head lettuce, cucumbers and a number of others, have a small root system and receive nutrition from the upper layers of the soil. And, for example, a dandelion with its powerful root system extracts calcium from the depths. In addition, this weed releases a large amount of ethylene gas into the air, which accelerates the ripening of fruits, not to mention the fact that its bright flowers attract bees and other pollinating insects to the garden.
Incompatibility or which plants should not be planted nearby
So far we have been talking about positive influence plants to each other. But there is also a negative impact.
For example, do not plant carrots and parsley side by side. These are plants of the same family and their influence on each other is negative, they do not tolerate each other's root secretions.
There are plants that do not like their own root secretions - they are not recommended to be planted in the same place, even two years in a row. It is believed that beets belong to such plants.
All legumes do not go well with all types of onions and garlic. That is, they cannot be planted side by side.
In one year, I placed them next to each other, practically didn’t even leave a path between them, onions and peas. Didn't know they were incompatible. And what? Peas could not stand such a neighborhood. Two rows of peas - closest to the onion - sprouted, but disappeared after a while. So the peas themselves made a path between themselves and the onions.
Watercress adversely affects many vegetable crops.
Pumpkin does not like the neighborhood of potatoes.
Even plants different ages may affect each other in different ways. That is, the plants are not initially hostile to each other, but planted one much earlier than the other can suppress each other.
Here is an example not from a book - from my experience. I identified one bed for late cabbage and Beijing cabbage. I decided that Beijing cabbage will ripen earlier and make room for late cabbage. Seedlings of Beijing cabbage planted much earlier than cabbage. What came of it? Until I removed the Beijing cabbage, which, by the way, has grown very much, the seedlings of cabbage froze in growth. As a result, she began to gain growth much later, she could not form heads of high quality. I think this did not happen if I planted them at the same time, or at least one after the other with a small time gap.
