Making a CNC machine with your own hands. Independent production of cnc machine

For many projects, a CNC router is essential for good and fast results. After some research on the current CNC machines, I came to the conclusion that all machines under 150k cannot meet my needs in terms of space and precision.

What I want:

  • working space 900 x 400 x 120 mm
  • relatively quiet spindle with high power at low speeds
  • highest possible rigidity (for milling aluminum parts)
  • highest possible accuracy
  • USB interface
  • spend up to 150 thousand rubles

With these requirements, I started 3D designing with schematics and drawings, testing the many parts available. The main requirement: the parts must be combined with each other. In the end I decided to build the machine on a 30-B type nut with 8 aluminum frames with 16mm ball bearing spindles, 15mm ball bearing guides and 3 amp NEMA23 stepper motors that fit easily into a pre-built mounting system.

These parts fit together perfectly without the need for special parts.

Step 1: Building the Frame




The key is good planning...

Parts arrived a week after ordering. And in a few minutes, the X-axis was ready. - Easier than I thought! 15mm HRC linear bearings have a very good quality, and after installing them, you immediately understand that they will work very well.

After 2 hours, when assembling a CNC machine on Arduino with my own hands, the first problem appeared: the spindles do not want to get into roller bearings. My freezer isn't big enough for 1060mm spindles, so I decided to get some dry ice, which meant putting the project on hold for a week.

Step 2: Spindle setup


A friend came in with a bag of dry ice, and after a few minutes of freezing, the spindles fit perfectly into the roller bearings. A few more screws and it looks a bit like a CNC machine.

Step 3: Electrical Parts






The mechanical part is finished and I'm moving on to the electrical parts.

Since I am very familiar with Arduino and want to have full control over USB, I first chose an Arduino Uno with a GRBL shield and TB8825 steppers. This configuration works very simply and after a little tweaking the machine is PC manageable. Fine!

But since the TB8825 runs at max 1.9A and 36V (gets very hot), it's enough to start the car, but I noticed a step loss due to too little power. A long milling process at this temperature is a nightmare.

I bought a cheap TB6560 from China (300 rubles each, 3 weeks delivery) and connected them to the GRBL shield. The voltage ratings are not very accurate for this board, you will find ratings from 12V to 32V. Since I already have a 36V power supply, I tried to adapt it.

Result: Two stepper drives work fine, one cannot handle the higher voltage and the other only turns in one direction (cannot change direction).

So, again in search of a good driver ...

TB6600 is my final decision. It is completely covered with an aluminum cooling cover and is easy to set up. Now my steppers work on the X and Y axes with 2.2A and on the Z axis with 2.7A. I could go up to 3A, but since I have a closed box to protect the circuits from aluminum dust, I decided to use 2.2A, which is enough for my needs and generates almost no heat. Also, I don't want the steppers to destroy the car if they make a mistake when I give them too much power.

I thought for a long time about a solution to protect the stepper power supply and frequency converter from small aluminum parts. There are many solutions where the transducer is mounted very high or at a sufficient distance from the milling machine. The main problem is that these devices generate a lot of heat and need active cooling. My final decision is my girlfriend's beautiful pantyhose. I cut them into 30 cm pieces and used them as a protective hose, which is very simple and provides good airflow.

Step 4: Spindle


Choosing the right spindle requires a lot of research. At first I thought about using a stock Kress1050 spindle, but since it only has 1050 watts at 21000 rpm, I can't expect much power at lower speeds.

For my requirements for dry milling aluminum and possibly some steel parts, I need 6000-12000 RPM power.

That's why I finally chose a 3kW variable frequency drive from China (together with a converter) for 25 thousand rubles.

The quality of the spindle is very good. It is quite powerful and easy to set up. I underestimated the weight at 9kg, but fortunately my frame is strong enough and there is no problem with a heavy spindle. (High weight is the reason for the 2.7A Z-axis drive)

Step 5: Job Completed

Ready. The machine works very well, I had a few problems with the stepper drivers, but overall I'm really happy with the result. I spent about 120 thousand rubles and I have a car that exactly suits my needs.

The first milling project was negative form in POM (Parallax occlusion mapping). The machine did a great job!

Step 6: Finishing for aluminum milling


Already in POM, I saw that the torque on the Y-bearing is a little high and the machine bends with high forces around the Y axis. That's why I decided to buy a second rail and upgrade the portal accordingly.

After that, there is almost no backlash due to the force on the spindle. An excellent upgrade and, of course, worth the money (10 thousand rubles).

Now I'm ready for aluminum. With AlMg4.5Mn I got very good results without any cooling.

Step 7: Conclusion

Building your own CNC machine is not really rocket science. I have relatively poor working conditions and equipment, but having a good work plan all I need is a few bits, a screwdriver, clamps and a normal drilling machine. One month in CAD and purchase plan, and four months of assembly to complete installation. The creation of the second machine would have gone much faster, but without any prior knowledge in this area, I had to learn a lot about mechanics and electronics during this time.

Step 8: Details

Here you can find all the main parts of the machine. I would recommend AlMg4.5Mn alloys for all aluminum plates.

Electrical:
I bought all electrical parts on ebay.

  • Arduino + GRBL-Shield: ~ 1500 rub.
  • Stepper driver: 1000 rub.\pcs
  • Power supply: 3000 rubles.
  • Stepper motors: ~ 1500 rubles \ pcs
  • Milling spindle + inverter: 25 thousand rubles.

Mechanical:

  • Linear bearings: link
  • Linear rails: link
  • Ball circulation spindles: link
  • 2x1052mm
  • 1x600mm
  • 1x250mm
  • Fixed spindle bearings + stepper holder: link
  • Floating bearing: link
  • Spindle-step connections: I ordered Chinese couplings for 180 rubles / piece
  • Bottom profiles: link
  • X-profiles for rails: link
  • Y-profiles for installing X-axis stepper/spindle: link

Portal:

  • Profile on linear bearing X: link
  • Rear panel / Mounting plate: 5 mm aluminum plate 600×200.
  • Y-profiles: 2x link
  • Z-profile: link
  • Z-mounting plate: 5mm 250×160 Aluminum plate
  • Z-sliding plate for spindle mounting: 5mm 200×160 Aluminum plate

Step 9: Software

After using CAD, then CAM and finally G-Code Sender I am very disappointed. After a long search for good software, I settled on Estlcam, which is very convenient, powerful and very affordable (3 thousand rubles).

It completely overwrites the Arduino and controls stepper motors on its own. There are many good documented features. Trial version provides the full functionality of the software, only adding latency.

For example, edge search. You just need to connect the wire to the Arduino A5 pin and to the workpiece (if not metal, then use aluminum foil to cover it temporarily). With machine control, you can now press the milling tool against the work surface. As soon as the circuit closes, the machine stops and sets the axle to zero. Very helpful! (usually grounding is not required because the spindle must be grounded)

Step 10: Improve

Until now, the Y and Z axes had temporary plastic brackets to transmit the forces of the spindle nuts and moved the milling spindle accordingly.

The plastic braces were hard plastic, but I don't trust them too much. Imagine that the Z-axis bracket will brake, the milling spindle will simply fall (obviously in the process of milling).

That is why I have now made these brackets from aluminum alloy (AlMgSi). The result is attached in the picture. They are now much stronger than the plastic version I made before without a router.

Step 11: Machine in operation




Now, with a little CNC practice, a do-it-yourself woodworking machine already gives very good results (for a hobby). These pictures show an AlMg4.5Mn nozzle. I had to mill it from both sides. In the last photo, what happened without polishing or sandpaper.

I used a 6mm VHM cutter with 3 blades. I found that 4-6mm tools give very good results on this machine.

A set with which you can assemble your CNC milling machine.
Ready-made machine tools are sold in China, a review of one of them has already been published on Muska. We will assemble the machine ourselves. Welcome…
UPD: file links

I will still give a link to a review of the finished machine from AndyBig. I will not repeat myself, I will not quote his text, we will write everything from scratch. The title only lists a set with engines and a driver, there will be more parts, I'll try to give links to everything.
And this ... I apologize in advance to the readers, I did not specifically take photos in the process, because. at that moment I was not going to do a review, but I will raise a maximum of photos of the process and try to give a detailed description of all the nodes.

The purpose of the review is not so much to brag as to show the opportunity to make an assistant for yourself. I hope this review will give someone an idea, and it is possible not only to repeat, but also to make it even better. Go…

How the idea was born:

It so happened that I have been associated with drawings for a long time. Those. my professional activity closely associated with them. But it's one thing when you make a drawing, and then completely different people bring the design object to life, and it's quite another when you bring the design object to life yourself. And if with building things I seem to be doing okay, then with modeling and other applied arts, not really.
So for a long time there was a dream from an image drawn in AutoCAD, to make a whack - and it is in kind in front of you, you can use it. This idea slipped from time to time, but could not take shape in anything concrete, until ...

Until I saw REP-RAP three or four years ago. Well, the 3D printer was a very interesting thing, and the idea to assemble myself took a long time to take shape, I collected information about different models about the pros and cons different options. At one point, by clicking on one of the links, I got to a forum where people were sitting and discussing not 3D printers, but CNC milling machines. And from here, perhaps, the hobby begins its journey.

Instead of theory

In a nutshell about CNC milling machines (I write in my own words intentionally, without copying articles, textbooks and manuals).

Milling machine works exactly the opposite of a 3D printer. In the printer, step by step, layer by layer, the model is built up by fusing polymers, in a milling machine, with the help of a cutter, “everything superfluous” is removed from the workpiece and the required model is obtained.

To operate such a machine, you need the necessary minimum.
1. Base (body) with linear guides and transmission mechanism (can be screw or belt)
2. Spindle (I see someone smiled, but that's what it's called) - the actual engine with a collet into which a working tool is installed - a milling cutter.
3. Stepper motors - motors that allow controlled angular movements.
4. Controller - a control board that transmits voltage to the motors in accordance with the signals received from the control program.
5. Computer with installed control program.
6. Basic drawing skills, patience, desire and good mood.))

The points:
1. Base.
by configuration:

I will divide into 2 types, there are more exotic options, but the main 2:

With movable portal:
Actually, the design I have chosen, it has a base on which guides are fixed along the X axis. A portal moves along the X-axis guides, on which the Y-axis guides are located, and the Z-axis node moving along it.

With static portal
This design represents itself as a body, it is also a portal on which the Y-axis guides are located, and the Z-axis node moving along it, and the X-axis is already moving relative to the portal.

By material:
The case can be made of different materials, the most common are:
- duralumin - has a good ratio of mass, rigidity, but the price (just for a hobby homemade product) is still depressing, although if there are views on the machine for making serious money, then there are no options.
- plywood - good rigidity with sufficient thickness, low weight, the ability to process with anything :), and the price itself, a sheet of plywood 17 is now quite inexpensive.
- steel - often used on machines with a large processing area. Such a machine, of course, must be static (not mobile) and heavy.
- MFD, plexiglass and monolithic polycarbonate, even chipboard - I also saw such options.

As you can see, the design of the machine itself is very similar to both a 3D printer and laser engravers.
I deliberately do not write about the designs of 4, 5 and 6-axis milling machines, because. on the agenda is a homemade hobby machine.

2. Spindle.
Actually, spindles come with air and water cooling.
Air-cooled are cheaper in the end, because. for them it is not necessary to block an additional water circuit, they work a little louder than water ones. Cooling is provided by a rear-mounted impeller, which at high speeds creates a noticeable air flow that cools the motor housing. The more powerful the engine, the more serious the cooling and the greater the air flow, which may well inflate in all directions
dust (shavings, sawdust) of the workpiece.

Water cooled. Such a spindle works almost silently, but in the end, anyway, the difference between them in the process of work cannot be heard, since the sound of the material being processed by the cutter will block it. There is no draft from the impeller, in this case, of course, but there is an additional hydraulic circuit. In such a circuit, there must be pipelines, a pump for pumping liquid, as well as a place for cooling (radiator with airflow). Usually not water is poured into this circuit, but either TOSOL or Ethylene glycol.

There are also spindles of various capacities, and if low-power ones can be connected directly to the control board, then motors with a power of 1 kW or more must be connected through the control unit, but this is not about us.))

Yes, often in home-made machines they install direct grinders, or milling cutters with a removable base. Such a decision can be justified, especially when performing work of a short duration.

In my case, a 300W air-cooled spindle was chosen.

3. Stepper motors.
The most widely used motors are 3 sizes
NEMA17, NEMA23, NEMA 32
they differ in size, power and working moment
NEMA17 are usually used in 3D printers, they are too small for a milling machine, because. you have to carry a heavy portal, to which a lateral load is additionally applied during processing.
NEMA32 for such a craft is unnecessary, besides, you would have to take another control board.
my choice fell on NEMA23 with a maximum power for this board - 3A.

Also, people use steppers from printers, but since. I didn’t have them either and still had to buy, I chose everything in the kit.

4. Controller
A control board that receives signals from the computer and transmits voltage to stepper motors that move the axes of the machine.

5. Computer
You need a separate computer (possibly very old) and there are, perhaps, two reasons for this:
1. It is unlikely that you will decide to place a milling machine next to the place where you are used to reading the Internet, playing toys, doing bookkeeping, etc. Simply because the milling machine is loud and dusty. Usually the machine is either in the workshop or in the garage (better heated). My machine is in the garage, it is mostly idle in winter, because. no heating.
2. For economic reasons, computers are usually used that are no longer relevant for home life - heavily used :)
Requirements for the car by and large about nothing:
- from Pentium 4
- the presence of a discrete video card
- RAM from 512MB
- the presence of an LPT connector (I won’t say anything about USB, I haven’t studied the news yet because of the driver that works on LPT)
such a computer is either taken from the pantry, or, as in my case, is bought for next to nothing.
Due to the low power of the machine, we try not to install additional software, i. only the axis and the control program.

Next are two options:
- install windows XP (it's a weak computer, remember right?) and the MATCH3 control program (there are others, but this is the most popular)
- we put niks and Linux CNC (they say that everything is also very good, but I didn’t master niks)

I will add, perhaps, in order not to offend overly wealthy people, that it is quite possible to put not a fourth stump, but some kind of ai7 - please, if you like it and can afford it.

6. Basic drawing skills, patience, desire and good mood.
Here in a nutshell.
To operate the machine, you need a control program (essentially a text file containing the coordinates of movements, movement speed and acceleration), which in turn is prepared in a CAM application - usually ArtCam, in this application the model itself is prepared, its dimensions are set, and a cutting tool is selected.
I usually take a slightly longer route, make a drawing, and then AutoCad, saving it *.dxf, upload it to ArtCam and prepare the UE there.

Well, let's start the process of creating your own.

Before designing a machine, we take several points as starting points:
- Axle shafts will be made of construction studs with M10 thread. Of course, there are undoubtedly more technological options: a shaft with a trapezoidal thread, a ball screw (ball screw), but you need to understand that the price of the issue leaves much to be desired, and for a hobby machine, the price is generally space. However, over time, I'm going to upgrade and replace the hairpin with a trapezoid.
- The material of the machine body is 16mm plywood. Why plywood? Available, cheap, cheerful. There are actually many options, someone makes from duralumin, someone from plexiglass. I prefer plywood.

Making a 3D model:


Reamer:


Then I did this, there was no picture left, but I think it will be clear. I printed out a scan on transparent sheets, cut them out and pasted them onto a sheet of plywood.
Sawed pieces and drilled holes. Of the tools - a jigsaw and a screwdriver.
There is one more little trick that will make life easier in the future: before drilling holes, squeeze all paired parts with a clamp and drill through, so you get holes that are equally located on each part. Even if a slight deviation occurs during drilling, the internal parts of the connected parts will match, and the hole can be reamed a little.

In parallel, we make a specification and start ordering everything.
what happened to me:
1. The set specified in this review includes: stepper motor control board (driver), NEMA23 stepper motors - 3 pcs., 12V power supply, LPT cord and cooler.

2. Spindle (this is the simplest, but nevertheless does its job), fasteners and a 12V power supply.

3. Used computer Pentium 4, most importantly, the motherboard has LPT and a discrete video card + CRT monitor. I took it to Avito for 1000 rubles.
4. Steel shaft: Ф20mm - L=500mm - 2pcs, Ф16mm - L=500mm - 2pcs, Ф12mm - L=300mm - 2pcs.
I took it here, at that time in St. Petersburg it turned out to be more expensive to take. Came within 2 weeks.

5. Linear bearings: f20 - 4 pcs., f16 - 4 pcs., f12 - 4 pcs.
20

16

12

6. Fastenings for shafts: f20 - 4 pcs., f16 - 4 pcs., f12 - 2 pcs.
20

16

12

7. Caprolon nuts with M10 thread - 3 pcs.
I took along with the shafts on duxe.ru
8. Rotation bearings, closed - 6 pcs.
In the same place, but the Chinese also have a lot of them
9. PVA wire 4x2.5
it's offline
10. Cogs, dowels, nuts, clamps - a bunch.
This is also offline, in hardware.
11. A set of cutters was also bought

So, we order, wait, cut and collect.




Initially, the driver and power supply for it were installed in the case with the computer together.


Later it was decided to place the driver in a separate case, it just appeared.


Well, the old monitor somehow changed to a more modern one.

As I said at the beginning, I never thought that I would write a review, so I am attaching photos of the nodes, and I will try to explain the assembly process.

First, we assemble three axles without screws in order to align the shafts as accurately as possible.
We take the front and rear walls of the housing, fasten the flanges for the shafts. We string 2 linear bearings on the X axis and insert them into the flanges.


We fasten the bottom of the portal to the linear bearings, we try to roll the base of the portal back and forth. We are convinced of the curvature of our hands, we disassemble everything and drill holes a little.
Thus, we get some freedom of movement of the shafts. Now we bait the flanges, insert the shafts into them and move the base of the portal back and forth to achieve a smooth glide. We tighten the flanges.
At this stage, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the shafts, as well as their alignment along the Z axis (in short, so that the distance from the assembly table to the shafts is the same) so as not to fill up the future work plane later.
We figured out the X axis.
We fasten the portal racks to the base, for this I used furniture barrels.


Fasten the flanges for the Y axis to the uprights, this time from the outside:


We insert shafts with linear bearings.
We fix the back wall of the Z axis.
We repeat the process of adjusting the parallelism of the shafts and fix the flanges.
We repeat the same process with the Z axis.
We get a rather funny design that can be moved with one hand along three coordinates.
An important point: all axes should move easily, i.e. slightly tilting the structure, the portal itself should move freely, without any squeaks and resistance.

Next, attach the lead screws.
We cut off the M10 construction stud of the required length, screw the caprolon nut approximately in the middle, and 2 M10 nuts on each side. It is convenient for this, after tightening the nuts a little, clamp the stud into the screwdriver and, holding the nuts, tighten.
We insert the bearings into the sockets and push the studs into them from the inside. After that, we fix the studs to the bearing with nuts on each side and counter with the second so that they do not come loose.
We fasten the caprolon nut to the base of the axle.
We clamp the end of the stud into the screwdriver and try to move the axis from start to finish and return.
Here we have a couple more joys waiting for us:
1. The distance from the axis of the nut to the base in the center (and most likely at the time of assembly the base will be in the middle) may not coincide with the distance in the extreme positions, because shafts under the weight of the structure can bend. I had to put cardboard along the X axis.
2. Shaft travel can be very tight. If you have eliminated all distortions, then tension can play a role, here it is necessary to catch the moment of tension of fixing with nuts to the installed bearing.
Having dealt with the problems and having received free rotation from start to finish, we proceed to install the remaining screws.

We attach stepper motors to the screws:
In general, when using special screws, whether it be a trapezoid or a ball screw, the ends are processed on them and then the connection to the engine is very conveniently made with a special coupling.

But we have a construction stud and had to think about how to fix it. At that moment, I came across a cut of a gas pipe, and applied it. It directly “winds” onto the hairpin on the engine, enters the grinding, tightened it with clamps - it holds very well.


To fix the engines, I took an aluminum tube and cut it. Adjusted with washers.
To connect the engines, I took the following connectors:




Sorry, I don’t remember what they are called, I hope someone in the comments will tell you.
GX16-4 connector (thanks Jager). I asked a colleague to buy in an electronics store, he just lives nearby, but it turned out to be very inconvenient for me to get there. I am very pleased with them: they hold them securely, they are designed for a higher current, you can always disconnect them.
We put the working field, it is also a sacrificial table.
We connect all the motors to the control board from the review, connect it to a 12V PSU, connect to the computer with an LPT cable.

Install MACH3 on PC, make settings and try!
About the setting separately, perhaps, I will not write. It could go on for a couple more pages.

I have a whole joy, the video of the first launch of the machine has been preserved:


Yes, when this video was moving along the X axis, there was a terrible bounce, unfortunately I don’t remember exactly, but in the end I found either the washer dangling, or something else, in general, it was solved without problems.

Next, you need to put the spindle, while ensuring its perpendicularity (simultaneously in X and Y) to the working plane. The essence of the procedure is this, we attach a pencil to the spindle with electrical tape, thus indenting from the axis is obtained. With a smooth lowering of the pencil, he begins to draw a circle on the board. If the spindle is littered, then it turns out not a circle, but an arc. Accordingly, it is necessary to achieve alignment by drawing a circle. A photo from the process has been preserved, the pencil is out of focus, and the angle is not the same, but I think the essence is clear:

We find a finished model (in my case, the coat of arms of the Russian Federation), prepare the UE, feed it to MACH and go!
Machine operation:


photo in progress:


Well, of course we go through the initiation))
The situation is both funny and generally understandable. We dream of building a machine and immediately cutting out something super cool, but in the end we understand that this time will just take a lot of time.

In a nutshell:
With 2D processing (simply sawing out), a contour is set, which is cut out in several passes.
With 3D processing (here you can immerse yourself in a holivar, some argue that this is not 3D but 2.5D, since the workpiece is processed only from above), a complex surface is set. And the higher the accuracy of the desired result, the thinner the cutter is used, the more passes of this cutter are needed.
To speed up the process, roughing is used. Those. first, the main volume is sampled with a large cutter, then finishing with a thin cutter is started.

Next, we try, set up, experiment, etc. The 10000 hour rule works here too ;)
Perhaps, I will no longer bore you with a story about the construction, tuning, etc. It's time to show the results of using the machine - the product.









As you can see, these are mostly sawn contours or 2D processing. It takes a lot of time to process three-dimensional figures, the machine is in the garage, and I stop by there for a short time.
Here they will rightly notice me - but on ... to build such a bandura, if you can cut a figure with a U-shaped jigsaw or an electric jigsaw?
It is possible, but this is not our method. As you remember, at the beginning of the text, I wrote that it was the idea to make a drawing on a computer and turn this drawing into a product that served as the impetus for the creation of this beast.

Writing a review finally pushed me to upgrade the machine. Those. the upgrade was planned earlier, but "hands did not reach." The last change before this was the organization of the house for the machine:


Thus, in the garage, when the machine is running, it has become much quieter and much less dust flies.

The last upgrade was the installation of a new spindle, more precisely, now I have two interchangeable bases:
1. With Chinese 300W spindle for fine work:


2. With a domestic, but no less Chinese milling cutter "Enkor" ...


With the new router came new possibilities.
Faster processing, more dust.
Here is the result of using a semi-circular groove cutter:

Well, especially for MYSKU
Simple straight groove cutter:


Process video:

On this I will curtail, but according to the rules it would be necessary to take stock.

Minuses:
- Expensive.
- For a long time.
- From time to time you have to solve new problems (they turned off the light, pickups, something unraveled, etc.)

Pros:
- The process of creation. Only this already justifies the creation of the machine. The search for solutions to emerging problems and implementation is what, instead of sitting on the priest, you get up and go to do something.
- Joy at the moment of giving gifts made with your own hands. Here it must be added that the machine does not do all the work itself :) in addition to milling, it is still necessary to process it, sand it, paint it, etc.

Thank you very much if you are still reading. I hope that my post, even if it doesn’t incite you to create such (or another) machine, will somehow broaden your horizons and give food for thought. I also want to say thanks to those who persuaded me to write this opus, without it I didn’t have an upgrade, apparently, so everything is in the black.

I apologize for the inaccuracies in the wording and any lyrical digressions. Much had to be cut, otherwise the text would have turned out to be simply immense. Clarifications and additions are naturally possible, write in the comments - I will try to answer everyone.

Good luck in your endeavors!

Promised file links:
- machine drawing,
- sweep,
format is dxf. This means that you can open the file with any vector editor.
The 3D model is detailed by 85-90 percent, I did many things, either at the time of preparing the scan, or in place. Please understand and forgive.)

I plan to buy +151 Add to favorites Liked the review +261 +487

Machine tools equipped with numerical software (CNC) are presented in the form of modern equipment for cutting, turning, drilling or grinding metal, plywood, foam wood and other materials.

Built-in electronics based on printed circuit boards "Arduino" provides maximum automation of work.

1 What is a CNC machine?

CNC machines based on Arduino printed circuit boards are capable of automatically steplessly changing the spindle speed, as well as the feed rate of calipers, tables and other mechanisms. Auxiliary elements of the CNC machine automatically takes the desired position, and can be used to cut plywood or aluminum profile.

In devices based on Arduino printed circuit boards, the cutting tool (pre-configured) is also changed automatically.

In CNC devices based on Arduino printed circuit boards, all commands are given through the controller.

The controller receives signals from the program carrier. For such equipment for cutting plywood, metal profiles or foam, the program carriers are cams, stops or copiers.

The signal received from the program carrier through the controller gives a command to the automatic, semi-automatic or copying machine. If it is necessary to change a sheet of plywood or foam for cutting, then the cams or copiers are replaced by other elements.

Units with program control based on Arduino boards use punched tapes, punched cards or magnetic tapes as a program carrier, which contain all the necessary information. With the use of Arduino boards, the entire process of cutting plywood, foam or other material is fully automated, one hundred and minimizes labor costs.

It is worth noting that assembling a CNC machine for cutting plywood or foam based on Arduino boards you can do it yourself without much difficulty. Control in CNC units based on Arduino is carried out by a controller that transmits both technological and dimensional information.

Using CNC plasma cutters based on Arduino boards, you can release a large number of universal equipment and, at the same time, increase labor productivity. The main advantages of do-it-yourself Arduino-based machines are expressed in:

  • high (compared to manual machines) performance;
  • the flexibility of versatile equipment combined with precision;
  • reducing the need to attract qualified specialists to work;
  • the possibility of manufacturing interchangeable parts according to one program;
  • reduced preparation time for the manufacture of new parts;
  • the ability to make a machine with your own hands.

1.1 The process of the CNC milling machine (video)


1.2 Varieties of CNC machines

The presented units for cutting plywood or foam plastic, using Arduino boards for operation, are divided into classes according to:

  • technological possibilities;
  • the principle of tool change;
  • workpiece change method.

Any class of such equipment can be made by hand, and Arduino electronics provide maximum automation of the workflow. Along with classes, machines can be:

  • turning;
  • drilling and boring;
  • milling;
  • grinding;
  • machines of the electrophysical series;
  • multipurpose.

Turning units based on "Arduino" can process the outer and inner surfaces of various parts.

The rotation of workpieces can be carried out both in rectilinear and curvilinear contours. The device is also designed for cutting outer and internal thread. Milling units based on "Arduino" are designed for milling simple and complex body-type parts.

In addition, they can perform drilling and boring. Grinding machines, which can also be made by hand, can be used for finishing details.

Depending on the type of treated surfaces, the aggregates can be:

  • surface grinding;
  • internal grinding;
  • spline grinding.

Multi-purpose units can be used for cutting plywood or foam, to perform drilling, milling, boring and turning parts. Before you make a CNC machine with your own hands, it is important to consider that the equipment is also divided according to the method of changing the tool. Replacement can be made:

  • manually;
  • automatically in the turret;
  • automatically in the store.

If the electronics (controller) can provide automatic change blanks using special drives, the machine can long time work without operator intervention.

In order to make the presented unit for cutting plywood or polystyrene with your own hands, you need to prepare the initial equipment. A used one may be suitable for this.

In it, the working body is replaced by a cutter. In addition, you can make a mechanism with your own hands from the carriages of an old printer.

This will allow the working cutter to move in the direction of two planes. Further, electronics are connected to the structure, the key element of which is the controller and the Arduino boards.

The assembly scheme allows you to do it yourself homemade unit CNC automatic. Such equipment may be designed for cutting plastic, foam, plywood or thin metal. In order for the device to be able to perform more complex types work, you need not only a controller, but also a stepper motor.

It should have high power performance - at least 40-50 watts. It is recommended to use a conventional electric motor, since with its use there will be no need to create a screw gear, and the controller will provide timely delivery of commands.

The required force on the transmission shaft in a homemade device must be transmitted by means of toothed belts. If to move the working cutter homemade machine Since the CNC will use carriages from printers, then for this purpose it is necessary to select parts from large printers.

The basis of the future unit can serve as a rectangular beam, which must be firmly fixed on the rails. The frame should have a high degree of rigidity, but welding is not recommended. It is better to use a bolted connection.

Welding seams will be subject to deformation due to constant loads during operation of the machine. The fastening elements are destroyed in this case, which will lead to a failure of the settings, and the controller will not work correctly.

2.1 About stepper motor calipers and rails

The CNC unit assembled by yourself must be equipped with stepper motors. As mentioned above, it is best to use engines from old dot matrix printers to assemble the unit.

For efficient operation of the device will need three separate motors step type. It is recommended to use motors with five separate control wires. This will increase the functionality of a home-made device several times.

When selecting motors for a future machine, you need to know the number of degrees per step, the operating voltage indicator and the winding resistance. Subsequently, this will help to correctly configure all the software.

The ball motor shaft is fastened using a rubber cable covered with a thick winding. In addition, using such a cable, you can connect the motor to the running stud. The bed can be made of plastic with a thickness of 10-12 mm.

Along with plastic, it is possible to use aluminum or organic glass.

The leading parts of the frame are fastened with self-tapping screws, and when using wood, elements can be fastened with PVA glue. The guides are steel bars with a cross section of 12 mm and a length of 20 mm. There are 2 rods for each axle.

The support is made of textolite, its dimensions should be 30 × 100x40 cm. Stepper motors are installed using fasteners.

Fasteners can be made using steel leaf type. The thickness of the sheet should be 2-3 mm. Next, the screw is connected to the axis of the stepper motor through a flexible shaft. For this purpose, you can use a regular rubber hose.

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With good equipment, complex technological processes become available. Specialized equipment with electric drive greatly simplifies the processing of wood blanks. But its acquisition is associated with significant investments. To solve this problem successfully, you should carefully study the materials of this article. Here is how to create functional woodworking machines for your home workshop.

Some samples of home-made equipment in terms of their consumer characteristics are no worse than factory products

Before proceeding directly to technical equipment, a few general remarks should be made about the relevant specialized room:

  • It is convenient when the workshop is located in a separate building. This implies sufficient space, the absence of unnecessary worries, the possibility of full equipment and other engineering systems.
  • If the room is located in, or the basement, it must be well isolated from the living area.
  • The area of ​​a standard workshop should not be less than 6-7 sq.m. Height - sufficient for free passage and the maximum level of the raised tool (from 2.5 m and more).
  • High-quality systems of ventilation, heating, lighting will be useful here. Every engineering system should be considered separately to avoid excessive costs during the operation period.
  • Make sure that there is enough electrical power for all woodworking machines for the home workshop.
For your information! If the equipment has electronic components, special circuit breakers will come in handy to prevent damage by voltage surges, protective earth. It is necessary to ensure that the network parameters correspond to the characteristics of power units (220 V, one phase; 380 V, three phases).

The use of such a source will reduce fatigue and help maintain good vision. It is preferable to install an LED fixture. It does not heat up the surrounding space like a conventional incandescent lamp. Unlike the gas-discharge analogue, it is difficult to damage it by mechanical action.


Woodworking machines for the home workshop and special fixtures: basic definitions, manufacturing techniques

  • Each machine is designed to perform a limited set of work operations with workpieces of certain sizes.
  • As a rule, specialized equipment is more convenient to work with compared to universal models.
  • It will be easier to make a woodworking machine with your own hands if you first make an exact list of requirements for its characteristics. Excessive power is not required. The required torque can be provided using a gearbox.
  • Similarly, by setting the appropriate transmission mechanism, change the speed of rotation of the working shaft. For more precise processing, smooth adjustment of this parameter in a wide range is useful.
  • To reduce costs, you can use an electric motor drill with a broken body in the design, and other working parts of failed equipment.
  • The most complex mechanical and electronic components will have to be purchased separately. The costs of reproducing some technologies at home exceed the cost of finished products.
  • The service life of electrically driven equipment will be increased if it is protected from excessive loads. In particular, it is useful to equip with automatic equipment that turns off the power when the engine overheats.
Important! Safety issues should not be neglected. Drive pulleys are covered with casings. Sheets of transparent plastic are installed in front of working tools.


For rational use free space, wall and ceiling shelves, racks, hooks and special holders will come in handy. The exact installation site of the respective ones is chosen taking into account the peculiarities of technological processes, the placement of machines and workbenches.

Related article:

Our review will help you choose and make home-made machines and fixtures for your home workshop, as well as understand the technology of their manufacture.

Creating a wood lathe for a home workshop

The technical data of the respective products, together with descriptions, can be found on the Internet.

The main part is the frame (1). Other parts of the product are attached to it. It provides not only the integrity of the power frame, but also good stability on the surface. The carpentry machine is designed for processing relatively light workpieces, so this part can be made from hardwood.

In the central part there is a caliper with a stand for hand cutter(2). Instead, a holder for rigid fixation of the instrument can be installed. The workpiece is fixed between the front (3) and rear (4) headstock. It is rotated by an electric motor (6). To change the torque on the axis in this design, a belt drive and a pulley (5) are used. The caliper and tailstock move horizontally along a special shaft (7), which is installed inside the frame.

Important! These drawings can be used to manufacture an existing machine. Please note that all dimensions here are in inches.

This project can be used to make a do-it-yourself wood lathe. It is only necessary to supplement it with a special device, which is designed to consistently create identical products.

To fix it in the right place, you need to make a special stand. V this example 10 mm plywood was used, from which a platform with dimensions of 480 × 180 mm was cut. The given dimensions can be changed, taking into account the actual parameters. Holes in plywood are cut out so that fixing bolts and tools pass through them. For rigid fixation along the contour of the site, wooden bars are fixed with screws.

This design attracts with simplicity, accessibility constituent parts, reasonable cost. But there are some disadvantages to be noted:

  • You will have to use two hands to move the cutter. This is necessary to generate sufficient force and prevent jamming.
  • The minimum radius along which the bends of parts will be created is limited by the diameter of the tool (cutter).
  • To process workpieces from different types of wood, it is necessary to precisely adjust the speed of rotation of the shaft, and in this example this possibility is not provided.

This example explains that even a design that has been tested by time and practical experience, with a careful study of the equipment and technological process can be improved.

Do-it-yourself homemade wood lathe: video with instructions and comments from the author of the project

How to make an inexpensive homemade wood lathe with your own hands

With the help of this DIY woodworking kit, it will not be difficult to make it. Such a bed can be fixed on a wooden or metal base. The exact parameters of the headstock are selected taking into account the dimensions and seats of the engine mounts. More than enough will be the power parameters of the electric motor from. For carpentry equipment of this type, power from 250-300 kW is enough, if it is transferred to the shaft using a gearbox (pulley).

The last example needs to be studied in more detail. By choosing the right tool with an electric drive, you can get the necessary power, rotation speed. A standard chuck is useful for reliable and fast clamping of the workpiece. In modern technology of this type, protection against overheating, dust ingress into the case is provided. High-quality switches, effective isolation are installed here. This drawing alone is enough to understand how to make a lathe yourself.

Making cutters for a wood lathe from improvised materials

Suitable files, saws, spanners, other products created from tool steel. It is easier to process square-shaped workpieces (in section). You should make sure that there are no cracks or other defects that reduce strength. For rigid fixation of through cutters, the machine must be equipped with a special holder.

Important components for a DIY stationary circular saw

In this equipment, the table performs the most important functions, so its parameters should be studied with special attention. It is installed with drive mechanisms, elements of the power and control circuit. It must be sized for the weight of the built-in components and wood pieces. We must not forget that during operation there will be static and dynamic loads, vibrations.

When specifying the parameters of the machine, the following factors should be taken into account:

  • For this equipment, the power of the power unit must be at least 0.85 kW.
  • When calculating the design, it is necessary to check the height of the protruding edge of the disk. It will determine the maximum depth of cut.
  • The minimum speed of rotation of the working shaft is limited to 1.5 thousand revolutions per minute. It is desirable to increase it so that during the execution of work operations the color of the wooden blank does not change.

Description of an inexpensive circular saw from a grinder with your own hands

As in the previous example, when creating such a machine, you can simplify the solution of the problem using standard power tools.

The drive with the cutting disc is fixed on the rotary rocker. To facilitate physical effort - install a spring, or counterweight. Tool movement is only allowed in the vertical direction along an arc. This design is mobile. It can be installed indoors and outdoors on a suitable base. If necessary, the grinder can be dismantled. It is fixed with screw connecting elements on a damping wooden (rubber) gasket.

Do-it-yourself bed for an angle grinder: drawings, videos, an algorithm for manufacturing individual parts and assembly:

Advantages and process of creating a simple wood milling machine for a home workshop

This equipment is used for cutting grooves according to given dimensions and accurate drilling at different angles. With it, you can quickly remove a quarter, create a recess in a workpiece of a certain shape. Even without a detailed explanation, it is clear that such opportunities will be useful to the owner of a private house. It remains to figure out how to make a homemade milling machine for wood. Will such a solution be economically viable, or is it more profitable to purchase factory-made equipment?

The answers to the questions raised can be given after a detailed study of the relevant structures.

In the central part of the table, a power unit is installed that rotates the cutter. With the help of clamps and other devices, the workpiece is fixed in the desired position and moved along a given trajectory. Such a workplace is equipped with an operational dust removal system.

To eliminate errors during the implementation of the project, pay attention to the individual parameters of the structural elements:

  • A table for performing work operations is created in a stationary version. Its dimensions and load capacity will be determined taking into account the characteristics of the processed samples.
  • Experts recommend installing screw regulators in the lower parts of the supports. With their help, you can establish the exact horizontal position of the structure, even on uneven surfaces.
  • The power frame can be assembled from steel pipes (rectangular profiles). For the manufacture of countertops, a high-quality and fairly thick chipboard is suitable. A thin sheet of metal will vibrate, which will degrade the processing accuracy.
  • If you choose a motor with a power of 500-900 W, the capabilities of the cutter will only be enough to remove thin layers, creating relatively small depressions.
  • When installing a 900-1900 W power unit, more complex operations are permissible. However, some difficulties are acceptable when processing hardwood blanks.
  • In powerful machines (more than 2000 W), you can install cutters of any type. Such equipment belongs to the professional level. It is designed for long-term operation without overheating the motor.
  • For the manufacture of a mounting plate through which the engine is attached to the tabletop, you can use a sheet of fiberglass, metal.
  • To ensure good visibility in working area, a backlight is mounted above the table.

The following table provides information on how much a manual wood milling machine costs in the domestic market.

Brand/model, photoPower, WMaxi-
low spindle speed rpm
Price,
rub.
Notes

PROMA/ SF-40
1500 24000 17500-18900 It is intended for creation of grooves, folding, milling.

Encore/ Corvette-82
1500 2400 14200-15900 Distinctive design elements: an angle stop with a scale that simplifies processing at a certain angle; side supports for holding large workpieces.

Proxxon/ MT 400
100 25000 14200-15700 Compact lightweight model with low power motor. Designed for processing small pieces of soft wood.

PROMA/TFS-120
5500 9000 175000-183000 Professional level equipment. Connects to three-phase network 380 V. Suitable for equipping specialized woodworking enterprises.

X-CUT/ XC-3040
800 24000 188000-196000 Compact machine with numerical control (CNC). For convenience of management it is equipped with the portable panel. Downloading new programs from a computer is permissible using a "flash drive".

The feasibility of implementing a do-it-yourself CNC milling machine project

The use of program control allows you to create large series of parts with high accuracy, to perform unique and especially careful processing. To start a new technological process, it is enough to download a new program and click the “Start” button. Simple and complex tasks will be performed by the wood milling machine automatically, without user intervention and control. This technique eliminates operator errors and ensures the highest quality.

The advantages of this class of equipment are obvious. It remains to find out whether it is possible to create a CNC machine for wood with your own hands. Below are the features of this class of equipment:

  • It will be necessary to ensure the possibility of moving the cutter horizontally in all directions. This will require not only the appropriate design of the mounts, but also additional electric motors.
  • Accurate positioning of the tool is provided with the help of sensors, stepper motors.
  • It will take software, which will control the movement of the cutter, perform control functions.

Important! Even with a detailed description and drawings, it will be very difficult to make a CNC wood router with your own hands.

How to make your own cutters for woodworking machines

To create silent products, you will need blanks made of durable, resistant to high temperature and strong mechanical influences of tool steel. Damaged drills, fittings, rods will do. The required shape can be created using a diamond disc, which is installed in grinder. Edge sharpening is performed at an angle of 7 to 10 degrees. Too narrow a working part will quickly be damaged even when processing soft wood.

Drawings and recommendations for creating a do-it-yourself thicknessing machine

High-quality reproduction of this type of processing requires considerable effort. Therefore, it is recommended to use a three-phase electric motor with a power of 5 kW or more with maximum speed rotor rotation from 4.5 thousand rpm.

The shaft (1) with one or more knives is rotated by an electric motor (4), two pulleys and a belt. To press and move the workpiece, rollers (2, 3) and a manual drive with a chain mechanism are installed here. The design is assembled on a solid frame made of steel corners.

Taking into account personal preferences, it is not difficult to prepare do-it-yourself thicknesser drawings. For correction specifications take into account the scope of future work, the parameters of the blanks, the size of the room.

Making a functional thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands

You can quickly and inexpensively make a machine based on a standard electrically driven tool.

The picture shows that the power tool is fixed above the workpiece in a special frame. They provide the possibility of moving it in the longitudinal and transverse directions with strict preservation of the angle of 90° between them. A modern planer is equipped with a special outlet for connecting a vacuum cleaner. Therefore, there will be no problems with waste disposal.

The technology of creating a grinding machine for wood with your own hands

This equipment performs its functions using rigid shafts and flexible cloths with abrasive applied to the surface, brushes and other special tools.

For the manufacture of household-level equipment, it is recommended to choose a relatively simple one. It can be created independently after determining the required length, taking into account the exact location of the supporting rollers. The following algorithm is applied:

  • The width of the tape is set from 15 to 25 cm.
  • Strips are cut from a suitable grit of sandpaper.
  • They are glued to a flexible base of dense material end-to-end, without large seams.
  • Prevent slippage of the belt by increasing the diameter of the support rollers in the central part by a few millimeters. It is also useful to install a layer of rubber on them.

Article

For the manufacture of a three-dimensional pattern on a wooden surface, factory ones are used. It is difficult to make a similar mini-model with your own hands at home, but it is possible with a detailed study of the design. To do this, you need to understand the specifics, choose the right components and configure them.

The principle of operation of the milling machine

Modern woodworking equipment with a numerical control unit is designed to form a complex pattern on wood. The design must contain a mechanical electronic part. In combination, they will automate the work process as much as possible.

To make a desktop mini wood router with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the main components. The cutting element is a cutter, which is installed in a spindle located on the motor shaft. This design is attached to the bed. It can move along two coordinate axes - x; y. To fix the workpiece, it is necessary to make a support table.

The electronic control unit is connected to the stepper motors. They provide displacement of the carriage relative to the part. Using this technology, you can make 3D drawings on a wooden surface.

The sequence of operation of mini-equipment with CNC, which you can make yourself.

  1. Writing a program according to which the sequence of movements of the cutting part will be performed. To do this, it is best to use special software systems designed for adaptation in home-made models.
  2. Setting the workpiece on the table.
  3. Program output to the CNC.
  4. Turning on equipment, monitoring the implementation of automatic actions.

To achieve maximum automation of work in 3D mode, you will need to correctly draw up a diagram and select the appropriate components. Experts recommend studying factory models before making a mini.

To create complex patterns and patterns on a wooden surface, you will need several types of cutters. Some of them you can do yourself, but for fine workmanship should be purchased from the factory.

Scheme of a homemade milling machine with numerical control

The most difficult stage is the choice of the optimal manufacturing scheme. It depends on the dimensions of the workpiece and the degree of its processing. For home use it is desirable to make a do-it-yourself desktop mini CNC milling machine that will have the optimal number of functions.

The best option is the manufacture of two carriages that will move along the x coordinate axes; y. It is best to use ground steel bars as a base. Carriages will be mounted on them. To create a transmission, stepper motors and screws with rolling bearings are needed.

For maximum automation of the process in a do-it-yourself wood construction, it is necessary to think over the electronic part in detail. Conventionally, it consists of the following components:

  • power unit. It is necessary to supply electricity to stepper motors and the controller chip. Often use the model 12v 3A;
  • controller. It is designed to give commands to electric motors. For the operation of a do-it-yourself mini CNC milling machine, a simple circuit is enough to control the functioning of three motors;
  • driver. It is also an element of regulation of the operation of the moving part of the structure.

The advantage of this complex is the ability to import executable files of the most common formats. Using a special application, you can create a three-dimensional drawing of the part for preliminary analysis. Stepper motors will run at a certain stroke rate. But for this, technical parameters must be entered into the control program.

Choice of accessories for CNC milling machine

The next step is to select components for assembling homemade equipment. The best option is to use improvised means. As a basis for desktop models of a 3D machine, you can use wood, aluminum or plexiglass.

For correct operation of the entire complex, it is necessary to develop the design of calipers. During their movement, there should be no vibrations, this can lead to inaccurate milling. Therefore, before assembly, all components are checked for compatibility with each other.

  • guides. Polished steel bars with a diameter of 12 mm are used. The length for the x-axis is 200mm, for the y-axis it is 90mm;
  • caliper. Textolite is the best option. The usual size of the platform is 25*100*45 mm;
  • stepper motors. Experts recommend using models from a 24v, 5A printer. Unlike disk drives, they have more power;
  • cutter block. It can also be made from textolite. The configuration directly depends on the available tool.

The power supply is best assembled from the factory. At self-manufacturing errors are possible, which subsequently affect the operation of all equipment.

The procedure for manufacturing a CNC milling machine

After selecting all the components, you can make a desktop mini milling machine yourself with your own hands. All elements are preliminarily checked again, their dimensions and quality are checked.

To fix the elements of the equipment, it is necessary to use special fasteners. Their configuration and shape depend on the chosen scheme.

The procedure for assembling desktop mini CNC equipment for wood with a 3D processing function.

  1. Installation of caliper guides, their fixation on the side parts of the structure. These blocks are not installed on the base yet.
  2. Lapping of calipers. They must be moved along the guides until a smooth ride is obtained.
  3. Tightening the bolts to fix the calipers.
  4. Attaching components to the base of the equipment.
  5. Installation of lead screws together with couplings.
  6. Installation of drive motors. They are attached to the coupling screws.

The electronic part is located in a separate block. This helps to reduce the likelihood of malfunction during the operation of the router. Also important point is the choice of work surface for the installation of equipment. It must be level, since the level adjustment bolts are not provided in the design.

After that, you can start trial tests. It is recommended to set up a simple wood milling program first. During operation, it is necessary to check each cutter pass - the depth and width of processing, especially in the 3D mode.

The video shows an example of how to assemble a large do-it-yourself CNC milling machine:

Examples of drawings and homemade designs