Blooming tulips all year round. Tulip Care for Lush Blooms Flower Garden Care

What flowers to plant in the shade? This question is of interest to many people who have their own homes and have little idea where and what plants will be planted. Moreover, in almost any garden there are places where the rays of the sun do not fall, and they are often considered unfavorable for planting crops. However, in such a place with a shady surface, many plants, trees and flowers can be placed. It is shade-loving plants that delight the eye with embossed, bright, beautiful leaves, which are sometimes more attractive than the flowers themselves. Shade-loving plants are very different from light-loving ones not only in their preferences, but also in appearance.

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Choosing a place for planting shade-loving plants

Before landing, it is necessary to assess the place, namely:

1 The density of the shade on the site, as there are plants that love solid shade, and there are those that will not be harmed by an hour in the sun.
2 The presence of trees is an important factor, since many plants are best planted under trees, bushes, thickets.
3 Soil quality. There are plants that will survive in any soil, while others need a special substrate.
4 Proximity ground water. Many shade-loving plants love moisture, and some can do without it.
5 Probability of flooding. It is very important that crops that can carry large amounts of water are planted in places where flooding is possible.

After choosing a site, you can start planting plants.

Kinds of flowers

Trees and shrubs are more often planted in the shady zone, but flowering crops here can also please the eye.

Flowers growing in the shade are divided into:

1 Shade-loving plants are plants that do not like the sun. They cannot be planted in a hot place - they will not survive. Representatives of such flowers are: hosta, periwinkle, lily of the valley, hoof, kupena, ever-flowering begonia.
2 Shade-tolerant plants can grow not only in the shade, but also in the sun. The shade-tolerant ones include: doronicum, astilbe, aquilegia, clobuche aconite, bergenia, Waller's balsam, dicenter, tenacious, or ayuga, iris, daylily, forget-me-not, liverwort, fragrant violet.

Both are suitable for landscaping shaded areas in the garden.

You should immediately decide which ones you want to plant and for how long: there are annuals and perennials.

Shade-loving annuals

Annuals sprout, grow, flower, produce seeds and die in one growing season. If plants develop very quickly, then these are ephemera. If they sprout in the fall, then these are winter. Annual flowers are brighter than perennials. In another way, we can say that annuals develop in the spring, and die off in the fall.

Among the shade-resistant annuals, pansies, daisies, etc. can be distinguished. They create beauty on the site even in the shade. Such cultures have rich colors, but only bloom for a season.

Pansies grassy - fragrant and beautiful, light-loving, but perfectly exists in the shade. The flower loves moderate humidity. It blooms in spring, summer or autumn. Height from 10 to 50 cm.

Pansies are one-year-olds (with the exception of two-year-olds). They have thin stems with a branched structure. The leaves are beautiful, heart-shaped or oblong. The buds are large, up to 10 cm in diameter, on long stems, grow one at a time. The color of the buds is different: they can be both monophonic and in three colors at the same time:

yellow;
blue;
blue;
white;
purple.

Daisies bloom very beautifully, forming thickets where weeds do not germinate. This is an annual that loves both light and shade. Can be a perennial in full sun. Daisies are indifferent to winter. This plant blooms in May-June. There are creeping, up to 5-7 cm, and growing, from 10 to 60 cm. It is worth noting that this plant is edible. Daisy can be an ornament from early spring to late autumn.

All the plants that bloom in early spring and are bulbous, can be attributed to annual plants, loving shade. These are flowers such as: snowdrops, galanthus, scillas, muscari, daffodils, tulips, white flowers, ornithogalum (bird-farming), crocosmia. Grow them under shrubs. Such plants bloom in early spring, when the trees are still bare.

Overview of perennials

Perennials are the most common plants that live more than 2 years. When they reach a certain age, they can bloom again without dying. Their root system penetrates deeper into the soil than that of annual plants. Plants can repeat flowering many times. They also adapt easily to environmental changes.

Mostly perennials are shade-loving. Most of them are resistant to cold, but there are those that need to be covered or even dug up to be transferred to a fairly cool place where the temperature is not lower than -5 ° C. In some flowers, the leaves fall off for the winter, and in many they retain their vital activity all year round.

It is shade-loving, unpretentious, does not require special treatments, does not cause allergies, is invulnerable to almost all insects and diseases. The main advantage of moss is its evergreenness. Moss grows well under trees, independently creates decorative compositions. They are decorated with fences, tree trunks, walls, sculptures and even roofs. It also helps to preserve the harvest in winter: carrots, beets, apples and other vegetables and fruits are stored in dry moss (the moss is dried in advance). Fruits that are stored in moss do not lose their smell and aroma, do not rot or freeze, as the moss absorbs excess moisture.

indoor cultures

In our time, plants appeared that were only indoor, and now they are planted in gardens. For example, ever-flowering begonia and Waller's balsam. New varieties of these crops are cold-hardy. Now they are grown in the garden. They are just right for shady places.

In gardens, you can often find tuberous begonias and calla lilies. Although they can be grown in shaded areas, they should overwinter in a house or basement.

Some houseplants for the summer period they are transplanted into the garden. It is better to do this after the 20th of May and before the 10th of June. The soil must be fertilized with humus, the bush should be inserted into the hole without destroying the root assistance. It is advisable to transplant where there is no constant exposure to sunlight.

Plants such as fatshedera, helksina, cymbidium, some types of citrus, myrtle, palm, adenium, acocanter can spend the summer outside.

The most common options

Beautiful daffodils, delicate violets, charming primroses, tulips, magnificent hyacinths, early lilies of the valley are among best plants that do great in the shade. They must be planted alternately near shrubs or under trees, they will grow beautifully and please the eye. It is important that all these crops have time to bloom even before the leaves open, so they are practically not shaded.

The magnificent dicentra looks very beautiful, which can decorate any shady area after its flowering. It is very interesting: flowers bloom on an arched stem. And it looks like someone strung the buds of a plant on a thin thread.

Another gorgeous flower that loves shade is the bluebell lactiflora.

Large-rhizome geranium is popularly called the old-timer of garden plots. This culture - a favorite neighbor of many plants - is unpretentious in care, not capricious. It blooms very beautifully and for a long time. There are many benefits to this plant.

The Japanese anemone has bright beautiful flowers and large leaves that will decorate any darkened area in the garden.

There is a flower that stands until the very cold weather - fuchsia. It will add charm to any clearing. Aconite grows well next to fuchsia. It can be planted in the shade, where it will bloom until winter.

Watershed is awesome shade-loving flower: blue, purple, pink, red. It will delight with its flowering from spring to autumn.

Snapdragon - shade plant, a flower with a wide variety of buds. Grows over a meter.

If you do not like flowers, you can use plants with unusual decorative leaves. You should choose:

1 Hosta, which is able to create blue and green oases from magnificent openwork leaves. Their shape depends on the variety. This plant is loved by snails, but to remove them from the site, you can use a container with a small amount of beer. As the snails accumulate, the containers are taken out of the territory.
2 Ferns. They will bring the atmosphere of wild nature into the garden.
3 Foxglove loves shade and propagates by self-seeding. It comes in pink, red, yellow and white.

There are a lot of plants that can be planted in the garden in places where shade prevails or there is no sun at all. Which plants to use depends only on the preferences of the person. Some people like flowers, others are more attracted to leaves. All cultures are very beautiful in their own way. Annuals will help you change the appearance of the site every year, and perennials will eventually become an element of its decor.

The main thing when choosing plants is to remember that growing in the shade is a serious test for plants, and not everyone can stand it, so you need to choose shade-loving, unpretentious species. It is necessary to water flowers in the shade infrequently, moderate watering is optimal. It is better to plant and transplant flowers in May.

Choose the right flowers that can be planted in the shade in the country, follow the recommendations, and the plants will delight you for a long time.

A flower bed with tulips will be colorful and healthy if the gardener chooses the right place for its organization, prepares purchased or own bulbs and soil for planting, selects the optimal planting time, and provides quality care for the planted flowers and the entire flower bed.

Few amateur growers do not have at least a couple of varieties of tulips in their collection. These flowers are easy to care for and come in a wide variety of shapes and colors, which makes them such a desirable flower bed decoration. Every spring, millions of flower beds bloom across the country, where these wonderful plants are planted. And although it is believed that there is no more optimal time for their landing than early autumn, experienced gardeners know a few tricks on how to plant tulips in the spring so that they bloom.

Preparing purchased bulbs

If the bulbs were at your disposal in the fall, then it is better to plant them in the fall. Optimal time for this September - the beginning of October. If the planting material fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, plant it in open ground there is no point even if the weather permits.

Until spring, it is recommended to store the bulbs in a cool, dry place, such as a refrigerator (but not a freezer). Under the influence of low temperatures, special chemical and physiological processes take place in them, which then contribute to better germination and flowering of plants. Even if you purchased the bulbs just in time for planting, they still need to be kept in the cold for at least 12 hours so that they germinate better.

In late February - early March, after wintering, planting material must be disinfected in a weakly concentrated manganese solution. Bulbs should be kept in it for half an hour before planting tulips at home in a pot (only in spring they can be transplanted into open ground). The distance between the bulbs can be minimal. From above, they are covered with a five-centimeter layer of earth and left in a warm (heated) room for about a month until sprouts appear. Only after that, tulips can be planted in open ground.

If the spring turned out to be early and the snow melted already in March, you can try to plant the bulbs immediately in open ground. But in this case, be prepared that in the event of more or less serious frosts, the plants may die, and if this does not happen, then the flowers will in any case appear noticeably later than those tulips that were planted in the fall.

It should also be noted that if you decide to plant blooming tulips in the spring, then it is better to simply transfer the pot to the flower bed and leave it like that. V last resort you can carefully remove them from the pot, trying not to disturb the clod of earth, because otherwise the plant will not be able to take root and will die.

Preparing your bulbs

If you use bulbs obtained from your own flower garden as seed, they should also be subjected to preplant preparation. Before planting tulips in the spring, they must be subjected to the following procedures:

The bulbs dug out of the flower bed must be cleaned of the hard outer peel and the bare bulb should be examined for defects and diseases. In addition, a "naked" bulb is able to more efficiently obtain nutrients from the soil.
Next, the planting material is degreased and disinfected. To do this, you can use the already mentioned potassium permanganate solution or a special preparation. An alternative to chemistry is a solution of celandine, in which the bulbs should be kept for about half an hour. This will help destroy fungi and bacteria that can harm the bulbs.
When planting bulbs in pots, it is recommended to use only a clean substrate, since soil taken simply from a flower bed may contain putrefactive bacteria. By the way, the top layer of soil in the flower bed itself is also recommended to be completely replaced for the same reasons.

Soil preparation

So, we have already answered the question of whether it is possible to plant tulips in spring. You can if you know some tricks. But in general, the process of spring planting is not much different from autumn. The most important thing in the spring planting of tulips, as well as roses, lilies, or any other flowers, is the proper preparation of the land.

The soil in the flower bed needs to be dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet, that is, by about 25 cm. To increase the permeability of the soil (do not forget that tulip bulbs do not tolerate high humidity), it is recommended to add coarse sand to it. Also do not forget about fertilizers, in particular about humus (but just do not use fresh manure).

For preventive purposes, the flower garden can be treated with a light fungicidal solution that will kill the fungal diseases contained in the soil. If the problem is already found on adult plants, treatment with a solution of twenty grams of the working substance per 10 liters of water is recommended.

Spring Planting Tricks

In open ground, adult large bulbs are usually planted one at a time, but last year's "kids" can be placed in groups of five to ten pieces in one hole. Since the stems of tulips rise high enough above the ground to create a continuous carpet of ornamental plants in the flower bed, they can be planted with low-growing flowers (for example, forget-me-nots or daisies), or ornamental grasses - hostas, astilba, or bruners.

Planting depth also depends on the size of the bulbs used. Large ones are located at a depth of 10-15 cm, small ones - 7-8 cm. The distance between planted plants should also be about 8-10 cm. The indent between rows should be more - 20-25 cm.

When placing the bulbs in the garden, they must be carefully placed in the hole, but in no case should they be pressed into the soil, as this can damage root system, which at best will slow down the growth of shoots.

Since tulips do not tolerate excess moisture, make sure the flower bed is sloping. It is unacceptable that there are pits and depressions in the flower garden that can accumulate rainwater.

It is also worth telling another tricky way how to plant tulips in the spring in the country. Dutch professional flower growers practice the so-called "floor method" of planting bulbous flowers, which today has been adopted by many domestic gardeners. This method allows you to simultaneously plant several types of flowers with different flowering periods in one flower bed. Planting technology is extremely simple and involves planting bulbs at different depths. For example, tulip bulbs are first planted, covered with a five-centimeter layer of soil, and then, for example, hyacinths are planted on top. Another layer of earth is placed on top of the hyacinths and, say, crocuses are planted in it. As a result, you get a flower bed where three types of flowers bloom and fade at once, while you simply admire them and do nothing.

Now let's take a closer look at the question of when you can plant tulips in the spring so that they give strong shoots that can bloom beautifully. This issue is no less important than the preparation of the flower bed, since the survival of plants depends on how optimal the planting time was.

As already mentioned, it is best to plant tulips in the fall between early September and mid-October. However, since we are talking about spring planting, there are own rules here, and there is an optimal period for planting in open ground.

If the bulbs are planted too early and germinate before the night frost is over, the young shoots, and possibly the entire bulb, will die. If you delay planting longer than it should, the plants will germinate normally and nothing will threaten them, but there is a high risk that they will not bloom this year.

It is believed that tulips can be planted in open ground when the ground at the planting depth warms up to 9-10 degrees Celsius. Depending on the region, this may be the period from mid-March to early May.

Flower garden care

Since spring planting is not a biological norm for tulips, the issue of high-quality and timely plant nutrition becomes even more relevant. Whether tulips planted in spring will bloom depends to a large extent on this. In order for the shoots to give beautiful flowers, and then form strong viable bulbs, they need to be fed three times:

For the first time, fertilizers are applied immediately after germination.
The second top dressing is carried out shortly before the start of flowering, which will require a lot of energy from the plants.
The last time tulips are fed immediately after flowering, when the active formation of new bulbs begins.

For top dressing, you can use complex fertilizers created specifically for tulips. If this method does not suit you for some reason, you can fertilize separately. In particular, tulips can be fed with nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, etc.), potassium sulfate, phosphorus (superphosphate, calcium phosphate, bone meal).

Choosing a site for a flower garden

In conclusion, it is worth talking a little about where exactly tulips should be planted. These flowers have certain preferences for growing conditions, so by providing them with such conditions, you can achieve truly amazing results. In particular, when choosing a landing site, consider that:

Tulips love light and dislike shade. Make sure that the flower bed is not shaded by trees or buildings or other structures during the day.
Blooming tulips are afraid of strong winds. To prevent the buds from crumbling ahead of time, protect the flower garden with a barrier of some shrubs or create a low fence from the most windy directions.
In excessively moist soil, the bulbs rot. If the soil in your area is oversaturated with moisture, raise the flower bed 25-30 cm above the general ground level and create drainage in it by pouring a layer of crushed stone, broken brick or at least coarse sand under it.

Hello dear friends!

Today we will talk about the features growing tulips about how they differ from others

There is no such garden where tulips do not bloom and already in April their pointed seedlings pierce the melting snow - the leaves begin to grow.

And after 20-30 days they bloom and we can admire their luxurious flowering for up to 35 days.

In order to make it easy and enjoyable, you must follow a number of simple rules.

Growing Rules

Immediately at the beginning of spring, as soon as the snow melts (and even better in the snow), you need to feed the tulips with chemical fertilizers - 15-30 g per 1 m 2 , but not more. When fertilizing, try to remember that tulips do not grow well with high salt concentrations in the soil and therefore only half the dose recommended for bulb crops should be applied. I usually feed tulips with nitroammophos or special fertilizers for garden flowers: the first dressing is in the snow, the second is at the beginning of budding, the third is a week after flowering.

As of appearance tulips can determine which elements are missing in the soil. For example, if there is not enough nitrogen, then the leaf plates of the tulip become narrow and are no longer able to maintain a vertical position. The stems and leaves, at the same time, gradually acquire a red tint. With a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil, a blue-green color appears along the edges of the tulip leaves.

Basic spring care for tulips is to remove diseased plants, moreover, together with the bulb, roots and adjacent soil. At the same time, the hole is filled with a solution of potassium permanganate, which is sometimes recommended to be heated to a temperature of 70-100 ° C.

All agricultural practices - loosening, weeding, fertilizing, removing diseased and viral plants - must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the leaves and roots of healthy plants, because they are the ones that “feed” the bulb.

Leaves, stems, flowers grow very quickly in tulips, and even underground, active work is underway to increase the size of the daughter bulb and grandchild bulbs are laid. And this explains their short period of life. These rapid processes require large amounts of nutrients and moisture in the soil. Therefore, during the period of budding and flowering, especially in the absence of rain, it is necessary to water the plants regularly. And also, in order to get a properly formed large replacement bulb, tulips must be watered for another two weeks after flowering.

In order to get large flowers in the second year and so that the bulb does not break up into small onions, a seed box should not be allowed to appear - when the flower begins to wither, you must immediately remove it (tear off with your hands, and not cut with a knife). At the same time, it is imperative to leave at least two leaves on the stem, because the future flower and bulb will feed on them.

Tulips love sun and well-drained, light soil. As a rule, bulbs are dug up every year, but if you plant tulips deeper and remember to feed them during growth and after flowering, they can grow in one place for several years. I transplant tulips every 3-4 years.

In June, as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, dig up the bulbs, dry them in the shade and store them in boxes until autumn, signing the name of the variety. Tulip bulbs can't stand direct sunlight. and, therefore (I want to repeat once again) they must be dried in the shade, in a well-ventilated place.

In September, it's time to plant tulips on the ridges. To do this, we make trenches 30 cm wide and about 20 cm deep. We pour superphosphate on the bottom. Attention! I remind you that in no case should you put manure under tulips (as well as under all bulbs), as this leads to rotting of the bulbs. First, we lay out large bulbs in trenches with the bottom down and lightly sprinkle with earth. Then we plant smaller ones between them and sprinkle again, and lay out the children along the edges. From above we fall asleep with the remaining earth. With this planting, the beds look more decorative in spring and there is no need to dig up tulips every year.

In winters with little snow, severe freezing of the soil to a depth of up to 20 cm is possible. If tulips survive the freezing temperature of the soil to minus 4 ° C without consequences and bloom normally in the spring, then freezing to minus 9 ° C is fraught with various deformations of the flower. Therefore, after the first frost, when the soil freezes at night and thaws during the day, it is better to cover the tulip plantings with peat, humus, sawdust or straw with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Diseases and pests

If the tulip bulbs have sprouted, but the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, then we can talk about the disease of the plant. Very often, diseases spread after damage by both a root onion mite, a bear, click beetles, and mechanical ones.

Symptoms fusarium rot (fusarium) are: sudden yellowing and drying of the ground part of the plant, the bulbs begin to turn brown and dry, a weak grayish coating of mycelium with spores appears.

penicillium rot manifests itself as follows: the scales on the surface of the bulb begin to turn yellow and then dense bluish-green sporulation rapidly grows. Rotting begins with flower buds and flower stalks and very often the bulb rots completely.

Bacterial rot (bacteriosis) develops mainly as a result of damage to the root onion mite, which feeds on the bottom and young roots of the bulb, sometimes nematodes also provoke the disease. With this disease, the bulbs turn brown and rot, an unpleasant odor appears.

One of the most common and dangerous viral diseases of tulips is considered variegation virus. Outwardly, it appears on the petals of tulips in the form of various stripes and specks, which often look decorative and unusual. However, the virus infects all parts of the plant, slows down metabolic processes, provokes a delay in flowering and early yellowing of the leaves.

Or maybe you have your own interesting secrets in growing tulips, dear readers? Share with us!

Many gardeners, trying to get early shoots of tulips, plant them not in spring, but in autumn. This is a reasonable decision, since from being in cold soil, substances are produced in the bulbs that in the spring contribute to the accelerated development of the plant.

When planting tulips in autumn, it is very important to choose right time and do all the work right. Incorrect and untimely planting can lead to the death of bulbs in winter or poor seedling quality in spring.

Choosing the best landing time

When the soil temperature drops to 5 - 7 degrees, you can start planting the bulbs in the ground. You can determine this moment even more precisely by measuring the temperature at a depth of 9 - 11 cm - it should be approximately +10 degrees. Of course, the soil must be sufficiently moist.

It is important to understand that after planting the bulb in the soil, it must take root there, and for this it will take from three weeks to a month. If the bulb does not have time to take root in the ground before frost, then it can either die or germinate in the spring, but the tulip will be weak and inconspicuous. If the planting is too early, then the bulb can not only take root, but also give a sprout that will die during the first cold snap.

Choosing the best place for planting tulips

the best place

Tulip bulbs love moderate humidity. Excessive moisture can kill the plant. Therefore, it is important to choose a place where the water will not stand for a long time and soak the roots.

Because of the "puddles" on the ridge, there may be trouble with the wintering of the bulbs. The fact is that due to excess moisture, the temperature under the ground will be lower, and when cold weather sets in, plants may die.

It is better to plant tulips in neutral or slightly alkaline fertilized soil. If the soil is acidic, then it should be limed. You can not plant tulips in places where previously there were diseased plants, as the infection will spread to new shoots.

Preparing for landing

The bulbs should be sorted out, the diseased ones should be put aside and the healthy ones should be divided into varieties. Diseased plants can become a source of infection for healthy ones, and as a result, the entire shoot will suffer.
A month before planting, the place that is allocated for a ridge for tulips must be dug up to a depth of 25 cm and divided so that the tulips can be planted by variety.
Fertilize the ridge. Fertilizers can be used either purchased or homemade, but not fresh manure, as it can cause fungus to develop on the bulbs.

How to properly land

The depth of planting depends on the size of the tulip bulb and the severity of the soil in which it is planted. So, for light soil, these are three bulb diameters, and for heavy soil, two diameters.
Large bulbs are planted in rows, while the distance between plantings in a row is about 10 cm, and the distance between the rows themselves is about 20 cm. Smaller bulbs can be planted "in Dutch": in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
Because of different height different varieties of tulips, tall stems of some varieties can block the light of less tall specimens, so planting should be done in tiers. The lowest varieties are planted on the sunny side: this way they get enough light and can fully develop.
Tulips should be planted carefully so as not to disturb the root of the bulb. You should not press the bulb so that it enters the ground better: this way you can imperceptibly damage the root and spoil the future tulip.
After planting, you need to level the ridge so that there are no holes left in places where there were holes. Rainwater can accumulate in these holes, soaking the bulbs and causing them to rot or freeze.

Mouse Landing Protection

From "biological":

landing along the edges of the ridge of hazel grouse
landing along the edges of the ridge of daffodils

processing bulbs before planting with Vishnevsky ointment.
applying a thin layer of kerosene from a spray bottle to the bulbs.
when planting, sprinkle red pepper on the bulbs
spraying a ridge with tulips with a tincture of valerian roots

planting plants in homemade or special containers (for example, the lower halves plastic bottles, special landing boxes)
placement of self-made protective caps over the landing site

The action of "chemical" remedies is based on the fact that the substances with which the bulbs are treated cause disgust in mice. So, rodents do not like red pepper and will not gnaw onions on which it is applied.

"Physical" means act as a normal barrier to the path of the animal. Here it is worth considering that not every material is reliable, since mice can gnaw through thin plywood and even wood. Better take plastic containers, and it is worth protecting the landing both from below and from above.

Summing up

Planting time is selected based on soil temperature. 5 - 7 degrees is quite a suitable temperature for starting work.
Before planting, the ridge needs to be dug up by 30 cm and fertilized, and all diseased and small ones should be selected from the bulbs.
Planting is carried out at a depth equal to 2 diameters of the bulb in heavy soil and 3 diameters in light soil, the distance between plants is best made equal to 10 cm.
When planting, care must be taken that high varieties of tulips do not cover low ones; it is best to plant them in tiers.
After planting, the ridge needs to be leveled so that rainwater does not accumulate in the formed holes.
After frost, it’s a good idea to cover the ridge with a layer of peat in order to additionally protect plants from freezing when severe frosts in winter.
So that the works are not in vain, you must also take care of protecting the landings from mice. To do this, you can plant bulbs in containers made of plastic or other durable material, and also treat them with kerosene or Vishnevsky ointment before planting.

tulip care for lush flowering Tulips, along with crocuses, hyacinths, hazel grouses, delight us first. Red, yellow, pink, variegated buds bloom in early spring on household plots, cottages and gardens. But not all flower growers enjoy a lush and bright carpet. Sometimes there is simply no bloom. In the article we will consider in detail why tulips do not bloom. Plants are unpretentious, do not require special attention to themselves. But some rules still need to be followed. It is because of the violation of the cultivation technique in the spring that there is no flowering.

Causes Sometimes you can observe the following picture: blooming tulips are interspersed with empty clearings. Not all plants bloomed. Some have produced flower stalks, but the flowers are small. Common causes of non-flowering: 1. Unsuccessfully selected planting material. In the same year, only a large bulb blooms. Small - to the next. Damage cannot be ruled out. The gardener did not notice them under the scales and buried the initially diseased tulip in the ground. 2. The plant lacks sunlight. Tulips love the sun. Hidden in the dense shade of trees, they do not want to bloom. 3. Spring flowers are planted in a place blown by cold and strong winds. This problem is especially relevant in Russia. The plant likes quiet areas protected from gusts. 4. Late or early landed in the ground. Weather anomalies disrupt flower-growing terms. In the conditions of a long warm autumn, the bulb produces a sprout, which freezes in winter. 5. The excavation deadlines were not met. What to do? Faded plants must be removed from the ground in a timely manner. Almost the entire summer season, the bulbs rest. If you tighten it with digging, then the tulip will begin a new development cycle. New roots will appear. It is too early to carry out this procedure - the bulb will not "gain" strength. 6. Shallow or deep landing. In autumn, the bulb produces a sprout that rises almost to the very surface of the earth. This is how the plant hibernates. An insufficiently deepened tulip appears too early - it freezes. Strongly deepen - the path to the sun will be long, there will be no strength left for flowering. 7. Bulbs are already damaged in the ground. In clay waterlogged soils, tulip flowers rot. Bulbs love mice - they often feast on the root nests of plants and bushes (the same peonies and crocuses suffer). 8. Incorrect cutting. When cutting flowers into a bouquet, leave at least two leaves. Otherwise on next year there will be no flowering. The garden is very beautiful when the tulips bloom. For the sake of this beauty, you need to try.

Planting and care Buying bulbs Today, breeders offer many different options - you can choose any variety you like. Planting material is classified by parsing. In order for the tulip flower to show all its beauty in the year of planting, we buy the first analysis. These are bulbs 10-14 cm in diameter. Why you should not buy a second, third analysis: it is better to immediately evaluate flowering; flowers appear in the second or third year. It is undesirable to buy onions "from the hands", especially unfamiliar ones. Unscrupulous sellers offer "old" tulips - we get a small bloom or even deprive ourselves of beauty. Landing Period: the last decade of September - the beginning of October. Focus on the climate of your region. V middle lane- better in the second half of September. In the southern regions, in the Crimea - in the first half of October. Site selection: sunny location, protected from strong winds. The soil is loose and fertile. Soil preparation: 2 weeks before planting, dig to a depth of 30 centimeters. Apply fertilizer. Leave the soil to settle down a little. Depth: for 3 bulbs. Put three onions in a row on the spatula bayonet - you will know the depth. Preparation of planting material: inspect the bulbs for lesions. If it is hard to see, you can remove the brown scales. Soak for half an hour in a disinfectant solution (Maxim, Fitosporin, potassium permanganate). Landing: strictly bottom down slightly pressed to the ground. You do not need to screw it in hard, otherwise you can damage the rudiments of the roots. We fall asleep with earth and mark the place so that in the spring we don’t forget and don’t dig this area again. Some sources advise placing tulips at a distance of 20-30 cm. But if we want to get a lush carpet (as in Holland), we plant closer. Nothing wrong. We focus specifically on our planting plan: what should be the flower bed. An interesting way to plant: put the bulbs at a certain distance from each other on the bottom of the slatted box. Lower to desired depth. It will be easier to dig later. This method does not protect against mice, as some gardeners believe. Rodents are repelled by the smell of hazel grouse - they can be planted along with tulips. Care Growing tulips is easy. They need watering and weeding. During the growing season, it is recommended to feed with complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Water as needed. When cutting flowers into bouquets, be sure to leave two leaves. The products of photosynthesis nourish the bulb, give strength for division. After each cut, the scissors are disinfected. There is a risk of infecting plants with variegation (do not confuse with the varietal feature of the flower). Or do not cut the stems, but break off. When the tulip blooms, unscrew the head. The plant will not waste energy on the formation of seeds. Rest period It is recommended to dig up tulips annually in order to: preserve the variety; notice infection or damage in time; provide high temperature at the time of rest. If you leave the bulbs in the ground, they will "go" deeper. It is more and more difficult for such a plant to produce a peduncle. How long do tulips leave in the soil bloom? .. A year, two ... And that's it. How to dig and store: 1) We extract the plants when the leaves are just starting to turn yellow, and the stem is still dense. If you are late, then the upper part will fall off and the bulb will be difficult to find. Far from always the bulb is located directly under the stalk - often the tulip "twirls". 2) It is better to use a pitchfork. A shovel can severely damage the planting material. Pitchforks cannot deal significant damage. 3) We shake off the ground from the dug out onions and lay them out in the shade to dry. For 15-20 days. 4) Remove all unnecessary (stems, leaves). Sorted by breakdowns. We shift into nets, boxes and store in a dry, warm place (at a temperature of 22-25 degrees). Houses in the attic, attic, in the closet, etc. Reproduction Tulips reproduce by bulbs. During the season, babies appear around the main bulb. There may be 2-3 of them. With their help, gardeners get young plants. Do not expect fast flowering from the "young growth". This will happen in a year or two. Transfer blooming tulips to a new place is undesirable: there is a risk of damaging the roots and disrupting flowering.