Gas boiler aogv. Gas boiler aogv Device of a gas heating boiler aogv 11.6

A chain of events prompted me to write this publication, forcing me to try my hand at self-maintenance of a gas boiler. I will note right away that this is not quite an “exchange of best practices”, as it is usually presented, since some of the facts stated, on the contrary, speak of the initial complete inexperience of the user. But, perhaps, the information presented will help those who read it to avoid such mistakes.

The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the network, I had to face the fact that intelligible step by step instructions it is not so easy to find - most often everything is limited to selective advice on the forums. The factory manual covers many problems quite dryly, and does not bring much clarity, and some important aspects in general, it is practically missed, which, in principle, led to the situation that will be discussed. So, what caused and how the AOGV-11.6-3 gas boiler was cleaned with their own hands.

How it all began

We moved into our own house in September 2002. The heating system was (and still is), but then it was organized according to the principle of natural circulation. The boiler room is in a separate annex, equipped according to all existing rules. An old cast-iron boiler was used as a heat generator. gas burners, some, as I remember now, incredibly large sizes, also with "self-made" masonry from fireclay bricks inside. It was a complete ruin with him: every month in our not the coldest winters (Moldova, Transnistria), the counter wound up 800 cubic meters!

In a word, it was decided to carry out a replacement. We opted for AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost and taking into account the mass good reviews about this model from friends. At the same time, it was installed circulation pump. The results were not long in coming - already next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all the rooms. And the monthly gas consumption fell by more than three times! - usually fit into 220 - 270 cubic meters.

Prices for gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3

gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3

To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in the cold winter of 2008-2009, when another “gas war” was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task quite well - it was not hot at home, and we were not threatened with freezing. To be honest, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that in many houses such a gas valve button is constantly tied up - there were simply no problems with automation during the entire period of operation.

Visits of gas inspectors in our city are held regularly. There have never been any particular complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before inserting into the root pipe) with one made of galvanized steel. The shortcoming has been eliminated.

This year, the cold snap came a little early, and already in early October it was decided to start the boiler at the lowest power. But a problem was discovered - the igniter wick did not want to light up, and if it did, it was with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not provide heating of the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.

A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch ignited immediately, but was weak) was also observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly clogged, and last year it helped that I (at my own peril and risk) managed to spray a can of carburetor cleaning fluid on this “jet” through a long curved tube. After the liquid evaporated, I tried to light it - everything worked, and last winter there were no more problems during the entire heating season.

Last year, we managed to do without showdowns - the nozzle was cleared of such liquid for carburetors

But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect turned out to be even the opposite. The igniter didn't light up at all.

I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas unit with burners (and I didn’t even know how accessible it was then). I tried, by unscrewing the gas supply tube to the igniter from the magnetic valve block, to blow it through with a car pump. Useless. There was nothing to do - I had to think about how to remove the entire burner block in order to mechanically clean the igniter nozzle.

The boiler, of course, is tied up, the system is filled. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still standing in a special pit. All this at first was very frightening - how to dismantle the gas unit? I didn’t find any sensible advice, but I came across a hint on one of the forums - this assembly rotates about the central axis - the inlet gas pipe.

Since there were no operations of any significant scale, I did not take a photo at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later, when the boiler was re-dismantled. But the essence remains the same.

So, if you try to look at the boiler from below (for the initial examination of the "situation" at first I used a mirror placed underneath), something like this opens up:

The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. 1 shows the inlet of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the input of the igniter and thermocouple tubes. And this entire assembly, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flanging of the cylindrical casing of the boiler by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate at the vertices of a regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one located somewhat to the left of the ignition window.

The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you are facing the ignition window).

The third is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of vertical tubes descending down to the pallet.

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gas boiler

After a thorough inspection of the entire bottom part, I did not find any other fasteners or fixing elements. This means that there must be grooves through which these protrusions can be disengaged from the flanging of the casing. As a result, it turned out that there was only one groove, and it was located in the area of the third hook (in the course of the show). To get on it, the pallet must be turned slightly clockwise. In the illustration, the direction of rotation is indicated by a green arrow. By the way, the opening unpainted section of the casing is also clearly visible - you can see how the pallet is shifting.
Understood the principle of fastening. But in order to turn the pan and remove the burner block, of course, it is necessary to disconnect the gas pipe, the igniter tube and the thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit.
First of all, I checked once again whether the gas supply from the home wiring was turned off.

Then he carefully unscrewed the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

1 - gas supply pipe to the igniter torch. key for 12.

2 – tube with thermocouple contact. key for 12.

3 - gas supply pipe to the main burner. Key for 27.

The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe has been removed. Checked - excellent condition. On the flare tube - the gasket remained on the fitting of the tee, but also - it is clear that it is not worn out, and will still serve quite well.

After disassembling this assembly, the pallet turned quite easily, and through the groove, the holder closest to the tubes disengaged from the casing. Now, supporting the pallet from below, we slightly feed it towards ourselves - and the other two holders also come out of engagement. We lower the entire assembly to the floor, and then carefully pull it out between the legs of the boiler.

The photo shows the removed pallet, but I will make a reservation again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The first time the picture was much "cleaner". Further, the text will make it clear why so much attention is paid to this.

I checked the condition of the main burner - it was completely clean, with no signs of any deformation. There were no complaints about her work.
Then he moved on to the "culprit" of this whole undertaking - to the nozzle of the ignition torch. I unscrewed the two screws holding this assembly (wick plus thermocouple) in the assembled position. The screws, however, at first resisted, but after processing with WD-40 they still went. He removed the box-shaped casing from the pilot burner, got to the nozzle.

The brass nozzle itself was covered on top with a light white coating (like scale), and this was removed very quickly, without effort, with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely “drawn” even visually. It's okay too - he took a thin copper vein from a loose cable and cleared the hole. For a guarantee, I also blew under pressure with a pump from the side of connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit. All task completed!

At the same time, while there is free access, I very carefully cleaned the bend of the thermocouple tube with sandpaper-“zero”: there was a very light layer of oxide - it accumulated during the period of summer downtime.
I carefully assembled all the nodes in reverse order. I suffered a little with the reverse installation of the pallet - but then I got used to it.

First, it is necessary to progressively, without skew, raise this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the flanging of the casing. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push this entire assembly towards you, give a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!) Then, while feeding the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they go into the flanging of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The magnitude of this rotation will be visually indicated by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.

I installed all the tubes in place, after checking the presence and correct fit of the gaskets. I tightened the nuts on the gas supply pipe and on the igniter tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, very carefully, literally barely touching, I cleaned the contact pads with a “zero”. This nut, in accordance with the recommendations read, was tightened not with a key, but by hand, only with the force of the fingers.
I checked the tightness of the connections - I brought a sponge from the kitchen with detergent, opened the gas supply, “washed” the joints of the gas pipes - everything is fine, there are no signs of a leak.
I tried to start the boiler. The wick caught fire perfectly - with an even flame, "washing" the thermocouple bend. Literally in 15-20 seconds - the gas valve worked. I waited a couple of minutes, then opened the gas supply to the main burner - it caught fire evenly, without cotton. I experimented - I closed and opened the supply to the main burner several times: everything is fine - the wick burns evenly, does not go out, the burner ignites as normal.

That's it, I set approximately the desired level of heating, closed the shield on the ignition window, and left, full of pride in the work successfully done.

I didn’t know then that my “adventures” were just beginning!

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An unexpected problem

For several days, the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not fade, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell appeared in the boiler room - this is not the smell of gas in its pure form, but rather the “aroma” of burnt gas. In addition, it began to give the impression that, according to the feelings of the household, there was a lack of warmth.

A couple of times the boiler went out at night - for no apparent reason. Well, then - more. About a week later, when I entered the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame was trying to “get out” through the ignition window closed by the shield. Enough large plot the metal casing above the window was almost red-hot, the paint on it was completely burned to the “pure” metal.

Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to ignite. The wick works fine, the automation also works well. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flames. And secondly, the “crown” of the flame is not directed completely upwards, but also tends to the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.

Clearly, this clear sign the fact that inside the boiler the flow of hot gases meets some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. Soot is everywhere, even on the contour of the ignition window - it has never happened before that I somehow get my hands dirty when igniting, and now black spots appear on my fingers, by the way, they are very difficult to wash off even with warm water and soap.

But the question remains unanswered - why? After all, in so many years, I have never had to deal with such a problem.

Useful again on the forums - to look for the cause. And on one of them I came across useful advice- such a picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without the supply of additional air. He began to deal more closely with the design of his boiler, and revealed something that he had simply not paid attention to before. This is a collar-shaped damper at the inlet of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the pallet. There, on the pipe, there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.

I ran to check: it is - the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the "materiel" led to the fact that I did not pay attention to this nuance at all. And in the process of disassembling the block of burners, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which air access was blocked.

I tried to open these windows and ignite the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the "crown", of course, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.

Boiler cleaning

It is clear that in order to carry out cleaning, I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and plus, remove the top cover of the boiler.

I had to suffer a little with the removal of the umbrella, which passes into the metal part of the chimney. The fact is that in the boiler room itself - a brick, indigenous type, installed on a foundation, and two pipes are embedded in it - from the boiler and, above, from the gas column.

I walled the boiler pipe myself, did it in due time with high quality, and it “sits” very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a small backlash. But in the end it turned out - it was possible to raise it so that there was enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture turned out to be very colorful.

Soot deposits are already visible under the umbrella itself. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider-collector of condensate there is a soft loose layer of soot with a thickness of under 10 millimeters.

To remove the top cover of the boiler, you must first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor. It is held on the cover with plates that are screwed with two self-tapping screws (in the illustration above - shown by blue arrows). But no matter how much I twisted these self-tapping screws, they turned in place, without moving up a millimeter. In the end, he spat on this matter - he decided to remove the cover along with the sensor. To do this, first, using a 14 key, unscrewed the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.

I immediately checked the paronite gasket - “live”, remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.

Further, it would seem, everything is simple - the lid is fixed on the boiler casing with three self-tapping screws.

The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.

But the other two - had a "violent resistance." They simply didn't want to budge. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 processing, nor tapping helped - they stand motionless.

In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to “lick” - but all with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the screws with a grinder, fortunately, they were not made “under the sweat”.

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self-tapping screws

It's okay - cut very neatly. Looking ahead, I’ll say that I subsequently replaced these fasteners with hex-headed roofing screws - in case of future cleanings of the boiler. It holds even better, and unscrewing it will not be any problem.

The lid sat tight, and I even had to tap it a little from the bottom - resting a wooden block on the bottom edge. After that, she took off smoothly.

On the back of the lid, traces are clearly visible that remain due to the incorrect passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler shell, then converged to the central opening of the chimney.

Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather warmed the boiler room than gave off heat to the system. It is better to keep silent about the safety of such functioning.

The water heat exchanger of the boiler is covered from above with its cover. It is fixed and tightly pressed against it with the help of special fasteners - metal wedges (in the illustration above they are shown by yellow arrows). These fasteners come off very easily.

I thought they were springs - nothing like that. These wedges are made from normal mild steel and their ribs are bent in the same way as conventional cotter pins. They are easily reduced to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.

In the same way, I removed all the stoppers, and then removed the cover. And horrified...

This small gap between the heat exchanger and the cover, in which the gas flows from the three channels must be combined into one central one to exit the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.

Now it is necessary to get inserts-turbulators of the gas flow from the channels of the heat exchanger. They succumbed without much resistance when he picked them up with pliers.

The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the layer of soot deposits on the blades of the turbulators is impressive in its thickness!

At the same time, I immediately see what condition these vertical cylindrical channels are in. Picture matching...

Naturally, even if we “bracket” the problems of traction, there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler with a heat exchanger so overgrown on the outside.

Next, I removed the boiler tray with the burner block - how this operation is performed, I have already told above.

Everything, you can go directly to cleaning all the nodes. For this operation, an ordinary plastic bottle brush was purchased at a hardware store - it will go for vertical channels. Tie it up with duct tape wooden lath to traverse the channels over their entire height.

I know that the “classic” for home creativity is blue electrical tape, but I only had white 🙂

And for cleaning other parts and surfaces, I purchased a flat brush with soft brass bristles.

I start cleaning from the upper plane of the heat exchanger - I clean and sweep down all the soot deposits. It turned out as shown in the illustration above.
Then I move on to cleaning the channels. Soot moves away from the walls quite easily - it has not yet had time to “zadubet”. Characteristically, it is very oily.

After cleaning the boiler itself, I turn to the removed parts and assemblies. In order not to breed excess dirt in the boiler room, I transfer all this action to the yard.

The burner itself is clean this time, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off with a brush. At the same time, I immediately slightly clean the thermocouple tube with a “zero” - this will not hurt.

After the cleaning operation is completed, I proceed to the reassembly of the boiler. First, I installed the block of burners in place - this has already been discussed above. I immediately connected all the tubes, checked the gaskets and tightened the nuts.

And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the air channel valve. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I really don’t know why), but when reverse installation it turned out that it was made of mild steel, and did not possess any springy qualities. After installation, it began to hang out and just slide down. I had to make a small improvement - to drill holes in the "ears", and after putting on the damper, slightly tighten it with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in a predetermined position, but moving it is not difficult.

The illustration shows that the air inlets are half open.

The next step is to put the turbulators in place.

The installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the widening of the central metal plate located on top. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangentially to the circle.

The next step is to replace the heat exchanger cover. The eyelets for the clamps entered the slots in the cover.

I insert metal cotter pins-wedges into the slots of the eyes, and lightly knock them out from the back - so that the cover fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that's it, the lid is securely fixed.

Next, I reinstall the top cover of the boiler. Holes from a single self-tapping screw that came out normally help to orient with its correct position. In my case, the thrust sensor was not removed - it is already in place, and all that remains is to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut.

I complete the assembly by installing the cap. I slip it under the pipe, put it on its socket (it fits very tightly), and then carefully put it in place. Three protrusions on the cap should fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler cover, and in this case, the cut-out semicircular window will be located above the passing tube of the temperature sensor.

Naturally, after that all connections were checked for tightness.
I turn to the long-awaited moment - to start the boiler. The wick caught fire immediately, and after 15 seconds the magnetic valve worked. So far so good.

I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the flames, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed pronouncedly upwards, which was to be proved!

I tried to "play" with the air damper. As a result, I had to open it a little more - I achieved an even blue flame, practically without impurities of red or orange hues. The experimental shutdown and gas supply (simulation of shutdowns and boiler starts) was successful - the igniter flame is stable, and the burner ignites immediately and almost silently.

Two weeks have passed since then - there were no complaints about the operation of the boiler! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not present us with any unpleasant surprises.

And for myself I decided the following:

Be more attentive to the little things of any design - everything has its purpose, and ill-conceived actions can lead to emergency situations.
The cleaning process has been mastered, it is not so complicated, so I will carry it out regularly - before the start of each heating season, at least for prevention.

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The author is aware that such work, in general, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should not be regarded as a guide to action, but only as a story about what happened - about how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and required their urgent elimination. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.

Overview of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Economy

The household gas heating boiler with a water circuit AOGV-11.6-3 Economy is designed for water heating of residential and service premises equipped with water heating systems (CO).

The device works on natural and liquefied gases. The manufacturer supplies devices with nozzles for natural gas. For operation on liquefied gas, it is necessary to replace the nozzles for natural gas with nozzles for liquefied gas.

These units can be installed in a closed heating system with a membrane-type expansion tank. The pressure in the heating system in working condition (at a water temperature in the heating system of 60 - 80 ° C) should be no more than 1.5 kgf / cm2.

A safety valve must be installed on the riser (outlet pipe), adjusted to operate at a pressure in the heating system of 1.8 ± 0.1 kgf / cm2. To control the pressure in the heating system, a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 0.4 kg/cm2 must be installed.

Rice. 1. Heating gas boiler AOGV-11.6 Household Economy

1. Traction chopper; 2. Drawbar door; 3. Casing; 4. Traction sensor; 5. Pipe for installing a thermometer; 6. Thermal bulb of the automation unit; 7. Door; 8. Traction sensor cable; 9. Serpentine; 10. Block of automation; 11. Gas tap; 12. Gas pipeline; 13. Igniter; 14. Thermocouple; 15. Shield; 16. Burner; 17.
CO water supply pipe; 18. Tank-heat exchanger; 19. Turbulator; 20. Water drainage pipe in CO.

The device is made in the form floor cabinet cylindrical shape, the front side of which is closed with a door that provides access to start the device in operation and regulate heating modes.

Rice. 2. Boiler automation unit AOGV-11.6

1. Thermocouple union nut; 2. Start button; 3. Union nut of the draft sensor; 4. Sealing washer; 5. Stock; 6. Adjusting nut; 7. Sleeve;
8. Nut; 9. Screw.

The automation unit is an electromechanical device and consists of a unit housing, inside which there are valves and a system of levers,
electromagnet, and serves to supply gas to the igniter and burner, regulate the water temperature and automatically turn off the gas supply when:

The extinction of the igniter.

A drop in gas pressure in the network below the allowable one or a gas supply interruption;

No draft in the chimney.

Traction chopper 1 (Fig. 1) is designed for automatic stabilization of the vacuum in the furnace of the apparatus, i.e. reducing the effect of fluctuations in the magnitude of the rarefaction in the chimney on the draft in the furnace of the apparatus. For successful operation, the door of the draft breaker 2 must rotate easily on the axis.

The automation of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6 for regulating the water temperature consists of a bellows-bulb 6 assembly installed inside the tank of the apparatus and a system of levers with a valve located in the automation unit.

An adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) is fixed on the block body, by turning which you can adjust the automation to a temperature from 50 °С to 90 °С. This change in temperature is caused by the movement of the bellows together with the stem 5 up (down) when the adjusting nut is rotated.

After heating the water to a temperature corresponding to the setting, the gas supply to the burner is automatically reduced, and it switches to the "small fire" mode.

When the water temperature in the apparatus drops (not more than 15 °C) as a result of heat extraction during heating or hot water, the gas supply to the burner is automatically increased. The temperature of hot water in the hot water supply system during its intake should not exceed 60 °C.

Traction automation consists of a draft sensor 4 (Fig. 1) mounted on the tank cover and a cable 8 connecting the draft sensor with a magnetic box.

Fig.3. The ignition device of the boiler AOGV-11.6

1. Thermocouple; 2. Igniter

The ignition device (Fig. 3) is designed to mount the igniter, thermocouple and ignite the main burner. The igniter flame should be around the end of the thermocouple.

The safety of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6 is ensured by automation, the operation of which occurs when:

The extinction of the flame on the igniter;

Lack of draft in the chimney;

The gas supply is cut off or the gas pressure drops below the lower value.

In this case, the gas supply to the igniter and the main burner is automatically stopped.

Preparing the AOGV-11.6 boiler for operation

The room where the AOGV-11.6 boiler is installed must necessarily have free air access from the outside and a ventilation hood near the ceiling and comply with the requirements for the placement of thermal units intended for heating and hot water supply of single-apartment or
blocked houses.

Installation of a boiler unit in a residential building is allowed only if there is a chimney with the removal of combustion products from the apparatus into it. The chimney must meet all requirements.

The chimney channel must have a "living" section not less than the diameter of the device's connecting gas outlet device, be strictly vertical, smooth, even, without turns and narrowings.

The outer surface of the chimney, located above the roof, must be plastered cement mortar. The part of the chimney located in the attic must be plastered and thermally insulated.

Below the point of connection to the chimney of the connecting pipe from the apparatus, a “pocket” must remain in the chimney, at least 25 cm deep, with a hatch for cleaning. In order to ensure optimal working vacuum in the chimney, we recommend that the chimney height be at least 5 meters.

The connection of the AOGV-11.6 boiler to the chimney must be carried out with pipes made of roofing steel. The diameter of the pipes must not be less than the diameter of the draft breaker of the apparatus. The pipes must be pushed tightly without gaps into one another along the course of the combustion products by at least 0.5 of the pipe diameter.

The vertical section of the flue pipe, located directly above the draft arrester, should be as long as possible, but not less than 0.5 m.

Laying connecting pipes through living rooms prohibited. If possible, long horizontal flue pipe lengths should be avoided.

The total length of the horizontal sections of the connecting pipes should be no more than 3 m. (B existing houses length not more than 6 m is allowed).

The slope of the pipe towards the gas appliance must be at least 0.01. Curve radii should not be made smaller than the pipe diameter.

The gas boiler AOGV-11.6 is installed near fireproof walls at a distance of at least 15 cm from the wall. If the apparatus is installed near a wall that is difficult to combust, its surface must be insulated with a steel sheet on an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick, protruding 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the housing.

There must be a 1 m wide passage in front of the unit. When installing the unit on wooden floor, the floor should be insulated with steel sheet over asbestos sheet 5 mm thick. The insulation should protrude 10 cm beyond the enclosure dimensions.

To improve the conditions of water circulation in the heating system, it is preferable to install the boiler as low as possible at the level of heating devices (radiators). The expansion tank is located at the highest point of the system. The heating system must be top-mounted.

The surface of the heating devices is determined by calculation. In order to avoid obtaining a large hydraulic resistance of the system, it is not recommended to underestimate the diameters of pipelines.

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OPERATION AND REPAIR OF BOILERS

Proterm Panther

What is a gas boiler aogv? The abbreviated decoding means that this is a gas-fired hot water heating device, that is, a gas boiler for house or apartment heating systems. From the usual boilers that are installed in individual heating systems, gas boilers aogv differ in that they have complete energy independence (the ability to fully operate offline, without connecting to the electrical network), equipped automatic system(APCS) of control and management, which can control equipment modes, air draft controllers and flame strength in the wick without human intervention.

Features and differences between AOGV and other gas heaters

Versatility and autonomy are the main advantages of a boiler in a private house. The versatility lies in the fact that the equipment can operate not only from a centralized gas pipeline, but also from bottled gas - just change the type of burner. In addition, in the absence of electricity, the electronic control system is successfully replaced by mechanical automation - this is complete energy independence and autonomy.

For housing of different sizes, you can choose boilers of the appropriate power, and this parameter is reflected in the marking of the unit: for example, the brand of the AOGV 17 boiler stands for a gas water heating apparatus with a maximum power of 17 kW.

Heat-generating elements of the unit: devices and sensors of automation, combustion chamber, jacket (heat exchanger), air duct (chimney channel). In the Russian Federation, the main suppliers of this autonomous heating equipment are the Borinsky and Zhukovsky plants - all Zhukovsky and Borinsky AOGVs are produced in a floor version. The Borinsky plant is engaged in the production of floor-type heaters in a rectangular case, with automation located in the back of the same case. All automation is mounted in different designs and configurations - it can be domestic mechanical and / or electronic equipment, as well as European or American-made automation.

The Borinsky plant manufactures boilers with a rated power of 7, 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in two modifications - a single-circuit boiler and a combined unit with two circuits, and this makes it possible to heat even small houses with with total area up to 70 m 2. In this feature, the advantage of the Borin units over the Zhukovsky ones, which are designed for large areas, is manifested.

The copper thermocouple is the next main element of the circuit, which activates the solenoid valve that blocks the gas into the combustion chamber when the wick is attenuated. The combustion chamber, which is equipped with gas boilers for a private house of the AOGV brand, is open, which means that the air to maintain combustion enters the chamber from the surrounding atmosphere. Such a device of the installation scheme should provide for the presence of both natural and forced ventilation in a private house. But if there is good natural draft, the electric fan can only be used in extreme cases.

The coolant jacket is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber, above the burner. Both circuits (if the AOGV boiler is double-circuit) have their own separate heat exchanger with separated water and / or coolant flows.

Zhukovsky Machine-Building Plant produces an AOGV boiler with a rated power of 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in three versions: an economical heater (economy class), a universal boiler (universal class), and a comfort class.

In these units, automation differs - in terms of configuration and country of origin. All boilers have a piezoelectric burner ignition, which corresponds to the definition of heater autonomy. Depending on the power of the device, by marking in the passport, you can find out what area a particular unit can heat.

Heater parameters

The high efficiency of AOGV - up to 92% - means that the installation of this equipment will bring maximum heating efficiency, and this is due to original design shirts. Boilers can work in heating systems with forced or natural circulation coolant, provided that the pressure in the system is not less than 1.4 atm. Such conditions can provide a liquid temperature of +40/+90 0 С.

Too much power can be considered a disadvantage of this equipment - even the smallest boiler manufactured by the Zhukovsky plant is designed to heat an area of at least 200 m 2, which means that in small houses its installation will be impractical and consumable.

The burner in any modification and brand of the boiler is made of stainless steel, so its durability is guaranteed. The shirt for hot water supply is made of copper, the body of the unit is coated with polymer or powder paint. Standard automation has temperature sensors and regulators to control the temperature of the coolant and prevent overheating of the boiler. The package also includes a thermocouple that controls the gas flow, and an air flow stabilizer, which serves to compensate for air pressure drops during gusts of wind, and shuts off the gas in calm weather.

Names	AOGB-11.6	AOGVK-11.6	AOGB-17.4	AOGVK-17.4	AOGB-23.2	AOGVK-23.2	AOGB-29	AOGB-35	AOGVK-35
Indicators	AOGB-11.6	AOGVK-11.6	AOGB-17.4	AOGVK-17.4	AOGB-23.2	AOGVK-23.2	AOGB-29	AOGB-35	AOGVK-35
Rated power, kW	11,6	11,6	17,4	17,4	23,2	23,2	29,0	29,0	35,0
Consumption of main or bottled gas
Main, m W / h	1,19	1,19	1,75	1,75	2,32	2,32	2,95	3,56	3,56
Balloon, kg/h	0,865	0,865	1,215	1,215	–	–	–	–	–
Heated area, square meters	120	120	100-200	100-200	100-250	100-250	150-300	150-400	150-400
Efficiency ≥ 90%	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0
DHW consumption when heating water at 35°C, liters per minute	–	3,5	–	3,5	–	7,0	–	–	10,0
Thread on the fitting, inches	1/2	1/2	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4
Approach/retraction
To the heating system	1/2	1/2	1/2	1/2	2	2	2	2	2
To DHW system	–	1/2	–	1/2	–	1/2	–	1/2	–
Gas outlet diameter, ≥ decimeters	1,15	1,15	1,25	1,25	1,38	1,38	1,38	1,38	1,38
Dimensions, cm
Height	86,5	86,5	86,5	86,5	85,0	85,0	85,0	85,0	85,0
Width	41,0	41,0	41,0	41,0	33,0	33,0	38,0	38,0	38,0
Depth	41,0	41,0	41,0	41,0	55,0	55,0	55,0	55,0	55,0
Weight, kg	43,0	47,0	49,0	52,0	56,0	72,0	65,0	80,0	82,0
In models with a power of 23.2 29 and 35 kW - a rectangular case

Insert AOGV in heating

A professional installation of a gas heater in a private house costs about 1.5 times less than the average cost of a boiler. Any unit can work as in, while the properties of energy independence are preserved in any case.

Standard installation with sealed circuit - explanation:

The coolant flows from the heater to the batteries with mandatory air vents;
A circulation pump cuts into the return pipe before entering the boiler, a coarse filter cuts in front of it;
The expansion tank cuts into the system before the pump.

In open-type heating systems, the expansion tank itself serves as an air vent, so it is not necessary to install valves on all radiators. The tank cuts into the coolant supply pipe, above the gas boiler, at the highest point of the pipeline, it is also allowed to cut it into the return pipe. In systems with natural circulation of the coolant, it is necessary to ensure the required pipe slope (20 per 10 running meters) so that the liquid does not stagnate in the system, but circulates freely.

Advantages of AOGV and management

When deciphering the abbreviation, the advantages of the units become clear, namely:

Simple and easy control of the gas heating unit allows you to organize safe and affordable regulation of the coolant temperature within the specified parameters;
All devices, parts and components are manufactured using high-precision technologies, but what is it like in practice? This is an absolute guarantee of safety and reliability of gas equipment operation. In addition, some models have manual gas shutoff and coolant temperature adjustment;
All AOGV brands are non-volatile, that is, they are not tied to electrical networks and completely autonomous;
Pipe wiring in the heating system can be done with any pipes - polypropylene, cast iron, steel or metal-plastic;
The heat exchanger (jacket) is usually made of copper, which ensures durability;
Pressure drops in the gas pipeline do not affect the stability of work;
A high degree of thermal protection ensures maximum heat transfer of the unit and the system as a whole.

Installation of AOGV is appropriate only in private residential buildings, and not in apartments due to their high power and large size.

Price: 1300 rubles

Description Thermocouple for gas boiler AOGV-11.5 Dani:

Delivery for you anywhere in Russia . delivery. . Russian Post ().
Product weight in package: 1 kg - specify for

Distinctive features Thermocouple for gas boiler AOGV-11.5 Dani:

In the heating equipment store, you can buy a site for a thermocouple for a gas boiler AOGV-11.5 Dani at a price of 1300 rubles!

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Quotes from State Unitary Enterprise MO "Mosoblgaz" www.mosoblgaz.ru. Paragraph 30 of the Rules.

In accordance with paragraph 30. of the Rules "The volume of gas consumed for the period from the day the gas meter was dismantled to send it for verification or repair until the day (see below)

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