Sewerage in a private house is necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you bring there only the summer months. I will help you understand the basic schemes of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of work.
sewerage scheme
Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. You can use the street and garbage pit only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.
Before you make a sewer in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:
- Analysis of existing communications. If the settlement has a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.
To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.
- Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it rarely needs to be pumped out, a cesspool is the opposite. Optimal choice- a septic tank combined with a biological treatment plant, but the high cost acts as a limiting factor.
- Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
- Room selection. The sewerage of a private house should tie together all the water drain points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it at outer wall, on the side of the house where the reservoir will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.
- Preliminary planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and evaluate whether the project will be “elevating”.
If the preliminary stage is completed successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.
Materials for creating an autonomous sewer
An independent sewerage device in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum material required for its implementation?
The main items of expenditure are reflected in the table:
| Illustration | Structural element |
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Ready septic.
The optimal solution for autonomous sewer system- installation of a septic tank industrial production(Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. Main disadvantage- high price. |
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Plastic container for a septic tank.
As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for waste accumulation. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". A plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices. |
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concrete rings.
If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, it is impossible to do without attracting a crane. |
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Pipes for external sewerage.
To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature extremes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laying at a depth. |
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Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage.
The internal sewer wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. It is desirable to purchase together with pipes the right amount fittings for making turns, bends, revisions, etc. |
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Pipe thermal insulation.
When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated premises (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is desirable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. |
In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:
- gravel and sand for excavation and laying of the drainage layer;
- cement mortar;
- sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
- revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.
outdoor work
Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank
Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:
- outdoor- consist in the construction of a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
- domestic- involve the installation of pipe wiring in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.
If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.
The most efficient design for autonomous sewerage a private house is considered a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but provides for their processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.
The septic tank works quite simply:
- Upholding. First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste occurs with the release of gaseous reaction products and the mineralization of residues.
- overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
- Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified effluents pass through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage retains another part of the pollution, because almost pure water enters the soil.
Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle - both home-made and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more efficient cleaning.
Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.
The calculation of the volume of a septic tank is carried out according to the formula:
V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, where
- V- the desired volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
- n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
- Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
- 3 - average duration of wastewater treatment, days.
If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people, the volume will be as follows:
V \u003d 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 \u003d 2.4 m3.
Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewer tank
Now let's figure out how to properly make a sewer in a private house. The algorithm of work on the installation of a septic tank in the table:
| Illustration | Stage of work |
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Digging a pit.
In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a pit for the installation of tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of backfill and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator. |
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Foundation preparation.
We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bed up to 20 cm thick. We ram the bed. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing cushion made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well. |
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Installation of containers.
We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to prevent the ingress of untreated drains into the ground. |
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Tank bottom device.
We make the lower part of the sump hermetic by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can process the base bituminous mastic and lay the waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated blank made of reinforced concrete. |
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Overflow design.
We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. In order to prevent organic waste from getting into the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows you to make a selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed. |
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Cover and necklines.
Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair. |
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Ventilation and hatches.
We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - so the unpleasant smell will disappear faster. We cover wells or separately brought out necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, fixing them with cement mortar. |
If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is desirable to seal it from the outside using roofing material or bituminous mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks, the so-called clay castle, will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.
Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house
The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe connecting the tank to the house. Wastewater will flow through it to the treatment/storage facility.
Pipe laying technology:
| Illustration | Operation in progress |
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Digging and preparing trenches.
Between the house and the septic tank, we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient flow, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sandy bedding up to 15 cm at the bottom. We moisten the bedding and ram. |
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Pipe laying.
In the trench we lay a pipe for draining waste. Optimum diameter pipes for the outer part of the sewer system - 110 or 160 mm. |
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Pipe insulation.
If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with roll material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter. |
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Entering a septic tank.
We can see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, we carefully seal the hole. |
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Entering the house.
The entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is desirable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated. |
After completing these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then we lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.
It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.
How to make sewer wiring
Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network
The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will describe its main elements:
- Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (minimum 110 mm), which combines all the circuits together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outlet sewer pipe.
- fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. It is output to a separate ventilation shaft or connected to ventilation pipe above the roof level.
Without fan pipe the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the valves. In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.
- Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drain to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually made gravity-flowing (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For 2" pipes optimal slope is about 3 cm by 1 m.
- supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be larger than the diameter of the line.
- Revisions- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet, equipped with a closing hatch. The audit is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline to remove blockages or preventive maintenance.
Stage 5. Pipe connection
All pipes are interconnected using fittings that allow you to make turns, branches, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is desirable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.
Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easy to assemble with your own hands :
| Illustration | Mounting operation |
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Pipe cutting.
Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the smooth end of the pipe to the desired size. |
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Chamfer removal.
We clean the trimming place, removing burrs from the outer inner side - they can cause blockage. |
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Trumpet preparation.
We insert a rubber sealing ring into the socket. We level the sealant, laying it in the groove and making sure that there are no bends or creases. |
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Pipe connection.
We insert the nozzle into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the outlet or revision hole is in the desired position. |
After assembly, all pipes are installed on bearing surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in strobes or behind the skin) and open gaskets. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.
Stage 6. Connecting to plumbing fixtures
At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:
- Toilet- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected by a corrugation or a piece of pipe either with a riser outlet or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.
- Bathtub or shower- are connected to the sewerage by means of compact siphons which are placed under drain openings. The optimum diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.
Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.
- Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- are built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon is usually bulb-shaped and placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
- Washing and dishwashers - also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, it is necessary to install a separate outlet of the sewer pipe, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing cuff.
Conclusion
The installation technology of the sewage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly get acquainted with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you have in the comments to this material.
A separate section of the design of engineering communications is the planning of the sewer system. Cottage owners and country houses often you have to independently draw up a diagram and install equipment, so knowing the nuances of organizing work is simply necessary.
The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage system in a private house is properly installed - the internal pipe system and the equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to take into account everything: from the choice of components to the material of manufacture. individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it right.
Unlike systems of electricity, gas, water supply, which are installed in accordance with documentation certified by certain authorities, sewerage on their own land plot and it is allowed to equip the house without permit papers.
However, one cannot do without a project, as it will insure against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.
For example, one of the frequent violations is non-compliance with the boundaries of the sanitary zone when installing drain pit. The supply and drain systems must not come into contact with each other.
An option for arranging communications in a private one-story house - external water supply and sewerage systems are located on opposite sides of the building
The internal wiring device is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, the wrong choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.
The construction of an axonometric scheme is usually done by specialists. They also make hydraulic calculations of the internal network and the highway located with outer side building. Now there are more interesting option– creation of a sewerage model in 3D format.
3D modeling programs allow you to create an accurate and complete project that simplifies the selection of pipes, fittings, fasteners, and installation methods as much as possible.
For a project, they turn to specialists when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - to study sanitary and technical standards, get acquainted with the internal wiring diagrams, learn how to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project on your own.
Placement of important system nodes
The peculiarity of autonomous sewage is that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in the overall system.
For example, the criterion for choosing a storage tank for wastewater is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources for draining technical and domestic water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.
Work planning and scheme selection
Installation sewer pipes usually performed together with the installation of plumbing, respectively, and it is better to design these two systems together.
If we summarize all the documents that make up the project and try to follow the rules, we get the following list:
- General data - description and conditions for the installation of water supply and sanitation systems based on regulatory documents.
- Explication of the premises (explanation to the diagram) indicating wet areas and the method of their waterproofing.
- Calculation of volumes of water consumption and wastewater disposal, taking into account the norms.
- Floor plan of the location of the water supply and axonometric diagram.
- Floor plan of the sewer.
- Specification - a listing of all constituent elements with an indication of the quantity or footage.
You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but on condition that private house no higher than 2 floors, and the load on the sewer network is minimal.
If a lot of people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, the effluents are discharged to the treatment plant, then the installation of a fan pipe is mandatory. Thanks to her, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water seals will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.
Features of wiring in a multi-storey building
The number of risers due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors does not increase, but the connection scheme becomes more complicated, since taps are present on all floors. For multi-storey buildings, there is a “code” set out in the SNiP documents.
In order to stay in country house was as comfortable as possible, the main communications in the form of sewerage and water supply must be carried out.
Of course, sewerage in a private house with your own hands is possible without any problems.
If you do not live in a house outside the city on a permanent basis, then there is no need to purchase expensive equipment. It is quite easy to get by with a septic tank.
The Importance of Sewerage
Very often, in practice, the function of collecting wastewater is assigned to a cesspool. In the case when there is no plumbing system in the house, the use of this option is quite logical, however, in the case of a large volume of drained water and the installation of various plumbing fixtures, this will certainly not be enough.
In principle, absolutely anyone can sewer into a house, and it is only important to follow the project at all stages, which was developed in advance, and included various schemes for internal and external piping.
Do-it-yourself sewerage scheme inside a country house
First of all, these are all places where plumbing fixtures are connected, such as a sink, toilet, as well as a bath or shower.
The external network is all the pipes that divert effluents from the house and the storage or treatment plant. Of course, the device of proper sewage is the correct implementation of a huge number of various nuances.
After the project is prepared, you can proceed to the calculation of the size of the pipes, the number necessary material, which may be needed for work, as well as the choice of a sewer.
As soon as you have a diagram on hand, how each point from the system will be located, it is allowed to purchase material that will be needed in the future and proceed to the installation.
First of all, if you do not know how to make a sewer, then the main riser must be installed. For the obligatory removal of all gases, a small part from above is slightly noticeable above the existing level at the roof, or the second option is brought up at the end of the work.
Types of pipes
Made of PVC material. The main advantage of this type of pipe is that the material is absolutely not subject to, in principle, either overgrowth or unwanted corrosion.
Their inner surface is quite smooth, which allows the unhindered passage of drains. Installation is carried out most often by a bell-shaped method. The price of such pipes allows everyone to purchase them.
Cast iron pipes are durable and always reliable option However, due to their rather large weight, their installation is quite difficult. Also, the price of such pipes is much higher than for ordinary plastic ones, to which, in fact, everyone is almost used to.
You can look at the photo of the sewage system in the country, and you will see that, in principle, there is practically no external difference between these two options. Then why overpay?
Ceramic pipes stand out from the rest with their amazing characteristics, but not everyone can afford their cost, so they are chosen less and less every year.
After the installation of the main riser is completed, the next step is the laying of horizontal pipelines. During installation, it is very important to avoid various 90-degree turns, as this only interferes with the movement of drains.
If you are interested in sewerage from concrete rings, then keep in mind that this is not only a fairly expensive option, but also extremely difficult to install directly.
It will be enough that all plumbing fixtures in their kit have siphons with an additional water seal. This will act as an obstacle to the penetration of various unwanted odors into the room.
Note!
An important condition when connecting a pipe from the toilet is that the pipe in diameter should not be less than 10 cm.
A septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings has a lot of different advantages. For example, this option is one of the most affordable, but it is completely unpretentious during use.
However, speaking of the minuses, it should be noted that the mandatory cleaning of the chamber from solid waste using sewage equipment.
DIY sewer photo
Note!
Many owners of private households know that a do-it-yourself sewerage scheme in a private house is mounted quite easily with certain knowledge and skills. The installation of the system involves the installation of appropriate plumbing equipment, the laying of a special pipeline and the arrangement of a container for collecting sewage. By the way, the arrangement of sewage is one of the most important issues in any home. Therefore, you need to think in advance how to install this design and, of course, how to save your money on this. And you can save. It is enough to understand the principle of building a sewer system and learn how to with my own hands carry out installation work.
Some experts argue that without certain knowledge in the field of installation and construction work, the proper result will not work. But I would like to refute this opinion. It is enough to choose the right scheme of the sewerage system itself. For this, the layout of a particular house is taken into account.
For example, you need to calculate in advance where the bathroom will be located in the house, where the toilet is, and how the kitchen will be located in relation to the bathroom. It should be borne in mind that it would be best if all of the above premises are located near one pipe - the so-called collector. It is through this pipe that the water flows into the cesspool.
It is also important to consider here that when the house is large, you need to make several cesspools from different sides of the house. This is understandable: if bathrooms are supposed to be placed in different parts of the house, then the drains should be on the same side. Even in the case of a large house, you need to worry about installing risers. In particular, if the house has two or more floors.
As you know, any construction begins only after a preliminary scheme has been drawn up. In order for this drawing to be drawn up correctly, you can seek the help of a professional plumber. If the owner of the premises has such knowledge, he can do it on his own.
If we talk about what constitutes a sewerage device in a private house with our own hands, then everything is quite simple here. There are internal and external sewage systems, the task of the master is to install them correctly, observing all the schemes and rules, as well as choose a high-quality capacity for collecting wastewater or dig an appropriate cesspool. For example, installation work internal system sewers include:
- installation of a fan pipe;
- riser installation;
- piping to the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as other rooms where drains are expected.
But the external sewerage will include the following works:
- installation of a pipe system on the street;
- connection to a centralized wastewater discharge system or digging sewer pit;
- arrangement of a sewer pit (if needed).
Of course, if you do not need to dig a cesspool, then this will simplify the task. Then it is enough to connect to a centralized drain system. But if a pit is needed, then one should take into account the capacity of the structure, and also know what exactly to lay it on the inside. You should also consider the type of pipes that are installed. You need to understand the materials from which they are made, and which ones will be the best. But first things first. To begin with, let's figure out how to make an internal sewerage system in a private house with your own hands.
What is the internal sewerage
It is necessary to clarify that the first thing they begin to install is internal sewerage. And you need to do this even at the design stage of the house. You should consider how exactly the rooms will be located. It is better, of course, if all the above listed premises are located nearby. After that, you need to take care of purchasing the appropriate pipes. For example, pipes with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm are selected for the toilet sewer system. But for the kitchen or bathroom, you can take PP or PVC pipes, which have an inner diameter of 50 mm. Turns in these structures are made using special knees. These elements are made of plastic and with a certain bending angle. The most common elbows are 45 and 90 degrees. The use of special elbows allows you to avoid blockages during the operation of the system.
If we talk about which pipes are best to use, then, of course, you should give preference to products that are made of PVC or PP. Such pipes are distinguished by good strength, respectively, their service life is much longer. But in addition to the above qualities, we note that such pipes are quite easy to install.
After the issue with the pipes is resolved, you should consider where exactly the collector pipe or drain will be installed. And already from this place and do the rest of the wiring.
Another tip from experts: you can watch a video in advance of how a do-it-yourself sewer is installed in a private house. Similar videos are available on the Internet. A properly designed sewerage scheme in a private house will save a lot of time and money on the further process of installing these structures. But this will only be possible if the scheme itself is drawn up correctly. It should include several blocks, namely: As for the external system, a separate scheme should be drawn up here. It will indicate exactly where the pipes are laid on the site, where the cleaning station or sewer pit is located.
How the scheme is drawn up
What to do with drains in a private house if there is no central sewerage system nearby?!
There is two sewer options- sewage disposal from a private house:
- Drain water into drainless storage septic tank (reservoir, cesspool) with periodic, as it is filled, pumping and removal of wastewater by a sewage machine to the treatment plant of the nearest settlement.
- Device local treatment facilities at the site and discharge of purified water into the natural environment - into the ground or onto the terrain.
The first method provides the minimum cost construction of a sewerage system, but the annual operating costs (removal of wastewater) can be significant.
Sewerage of a private house with a storage tank (septic tank, cesspool), and periodic, as it is filled, pumping out and exporting wastewater by a sewage truck to the treatment facilities of the nearest settlement. Provides minimal sewer construction cost, but annual operating costs (drainage removal) can be significant.
Local sewage treatment plant for a private house
The sewerage option with local treatment facilities is more expensive during construction, but can provide lower running costs for the maintenance of the system.
In local treatment facilities, a biological method of cleaning wastewater from pollution is used. Wastewater treatment is carried out by microorganisms capable of decomposing organic pollution. the main task biological treatment— removal of organic matter from wastewater.
Biochemical reactions that occur during biological treatment are partially removed from wastewater and many chemical elements reducing their concentration in waste water.
Distinguish anaerobic(bacteria without oxygen) and aerobic(bacteria in the presence of oxygen) biological treatment processes.
Two types of local treatment facilities for a private house
For wastewater treatment of a private house use:
- Anaerobic septic tanks, supplemented by ground treatment facilities with filtering drainage through the soil layer. In soil filters, the process of post-treatment of wastewater takes place with the help of aerobic bacteria.
- Active septic tanks- treatment devices in which the process of intensive biological wastewater treatment with the help of aerobic bacteria has been established. Treated drains after an active septic tank, as a rule, are discharged onto the terrain.
First option, an anaerobic septic tank with drainage into the ground, as a rule, is cheaper to install and operate. Here, in the treatment facilities, conditions close to natural are created for the vital activity of microorganisms. A simple device ensures long-term and reliable operation of the sewer.
The second option with an active septic tank- more expensive and difficult to operate. An active septic tank is a high-tech factory-made device in which artificial conditions are created for the vital activity of aerobic microorganisms, which can significantly speed up the cleaning process.
Sewerage of a private house with an active septic tank provides the highest degree of wastewater treatment. Treated effluents from an active septic tank are sent to the ground through drainage system. With waterproof soils on the site, drains are dumped onto the terrain, into a ditch. An active septic tank requires connection to the mains, does not tolerate long interruptions in the supply of sewage, is sensitive to power outages, needs constant monitoring of operation, as well as timely repair and maintenance. Advantages - small dimensions, quick installation, independence from soil conditions on the site.
Selection of the drainage system of the sewage treatment plant
The choice of a drainage system for transferring wastewater to the soil is determined by the filtering properties of the soil. In addition, consider the size and cost of systems.
For device absorption fields from drainage pipes requires more space on site than other filtration methods. drainage tunnels occupy less space, but the cost of their construction is higher.
Drainage wells have a relatively small area of filtration of effluents into the ground. Their device is justified on soils with very good filtering ability. Especially if such a layer of soil lies at a depth.
Filtering drainage well with aeration
How to turn a filtering drainage well into a sewage treatment biological station, into an active bioseptic tank - watch the video:
Diaphragm Compressor HIBLOW HP-60, 60 l/min, 51 W, 220 V. Operating pressure: 14,7 kPa., which corresponds to the water pressure at a depth of 1.5 m.; Noise level: 35 dB; Weight: 7 kg. (1 kPa = 9,524 mBar)
Disc aerator with platform MATALA MDB 11 .
Model / Article: MDB11; Air volume, l/min: 40~120; Dimensions: LxWxH ( mm) 290x258x130; Weight ( kg) (lbs): 1.5 / 3.3
The aeration element is designed to distribute the air supplied by the compressor in the volume of water. From the point of view of the intensity of the degree of oxygen dissolution, fine-bubble aeration is the most effective. Air enters through the perforated material, creating a large number of tiny bubbles that rise to the surface of the water, saturating it with oxygen.
The anti-pressure ring prevents water from entering the aerator. The perforated lye-shaped openings open with air inflow and close with its cessation, which prevents the system from ruptures, contamination and filling of the air duct with water.
All models have a 3/4″ male connector. The platform has a cavity that is filled with sand or gravel.
Where to place a septic tank and drainage into the ground on the site
The device for draining wastewater from a septic tank into natural soil is possible at a site where:
- Groundwater level is low - at least 1.5 m. from the area surface. The site should not be periodically flooded.
- The filtering capacity of the soil should not be too small. Almost all soils, except clay, are suitable for ground drainage.
- The dimensions of the site should allow placing drainage pipes or a filter well at a distance of at least: from the well and the well, including in the neighboring area - 30 m. upstream groundwater or 15 m. upstream or 19 m. perpendicular to the flow of groundwater; from home - 5 m.; from the border of the site - 2 m.; from trees and large bushes - 3 m.
- A septic tank, filter well or infiltrator should be placed no closer than 5 m from the foundation of the house to eliminate the risk of soil moisture at the base of the foundation.
- The septic tank is arranged in a place convenient for access to it by a sewage truck.
The device of a septic tank in a private country house
Drains from the house are sent to a container - a septic tank, and accumulate there. A septic tank is an obligatory element of local treatment facilities for an autonomous sewage system of a private house.
Wastewater treatment in local treatment facilities with ground drainage takes place in several stages.
How does a septic tank treat wastewater?
In the septic tank, the first preliminary stage of wastewater treatment.
In the septic tank from the received sewer water particles heavier than water settle and settle to the bottom.
Grease and other substances lighter than water gradually accumulate on the surface of drains and create a floating crust that prevents oxygen from entering.
The presence of a fatty crust on the surface of the liquid in the septic tank creates the necessary conditions for the process of anaerobic (without oxygen access) fermentation of organic pollutants in wastewater.
In a septic tank, contaminants in the drains are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. with the release of mineral particles heavier than water, suspended and dissolved substances, as well as gases.
Freed from most of the pollution, clarified sewage flows from the septic tank to the ground treatment plant for further treatment.
At the bottom of the septic tank, gradually sediment accumulates in the form of silt - the result of the decomposition of impurities.
Gases are removed from the septic tank through the ventilation system.
It is necessary to strive to increase the degree of wastewater treatment in the septic tank. The less pollution in the drains at the outlet of the septic tank, the slower the process of siltation of soil drainage, the longer its service life.
Dimensions, volume and number of chambers of the septic tank
To clean wastewater to the required level it is necessary to keep them in a septic tank for at least three days.
The number of drains in a private house is recommended to be taken 150-200 liters per day per person. If a family of 4 people lives in the house, then for three days the total estimated effluent volume will be at least 1.8 m 3, for a family of six - 2.7 m 3.
Choose a septic tank with a size that allows contain the estimated volume of effluents, not less. The depth of the liquid layer in the septic tank should not be less than 1.2 m. It is recommended to increase the useful volume of the septic tank chamber by 10 - 30% compared to the calculated one in order to leave more space in it for the accumulation of bottom sediments- you can clean the septic tank less often. In addition, the duration of the effluent in the septic tank increases, which increases the degree of wastewater treatment.
A septic tank may consist of several chambers - containers connected in series with pipes.
The presence of several chambers in the septic tank does not significantly affect the quality of wastewater treatment. With a large total volume of a septic tank, multi-chamber septic tanks can be easier to manufacture, transport and install, and it is also more convenient to remove sediment - only from the first chamber.
Building codes recommend, but do not oblige, with a daily amount of drains up to 1 m 3 / day arrange a single-chamber septic tank, and with the number of drains up to 10 m 3 / day- two-chamber. In a two-chamber septic tank, the working volume of the second chamber should be equal to 25-30% of the total usable volume of the septic tank.
For a family of 5-6 people, a single-chamber septic tank is enough.
To improve wastewater treatment it is more profitable to increase the volume of the septic tank, and not the number of cameras. In a large septic tank, the duration of the effluent in the septic tank increases, and this increases the degree of wastewater treatment at the outlet of the septic tank.
Effluent from the septic tank is directed to ground treatment facilities - a filtering well, an absorption field or a filtration field. Feeding cleaner effluents from the septic tank into these soil filters increases their lifespan.
Where to install a septic tank
septic tank pre-cleaning desirable be closer to home so that the effluents entering it cool less. More heat in a septic tank accelerates the processes of decomposition of contaminants. In addition, in winter, the risk of freezing water in the supply pipe and septic tank is reduced.
Septic tanks on site recommended located at a distance of 5 - 10 meters from the house. A closer location poses a threat to the stability of the soil under the foundation, especially in the event of leakage and leaks from the septic tank.
At a great distance from the house, in order to ensure the required slope of long sewers, it is necessary to deepen the septic tank and treatment facilities, which increases the cost of construction.
Do not try to deepen the septic tank more than this is the minimum necessary to ensure the necessary slope of the sewer pipes from the house to the septic tank. It is more profitable to protect the septic tank from freezing than to deepen it to the depth of soil freezing. Septic tanks and other sewage facilities located at great depths are more expensive to build and operate.
Sealed for water and gases septic tanks can be placed near the house, in the garage or even in the basement of the house. A prerequisite is the presence of ventilation of the septic tank through the sewer riser. The quality of manufacture and installation of the septic tank should exclude the possibility of leaks and flooding of foundations.
To the neck of the septic tank, the entrance of the sewage truck should be provided- sludge pump, with the help of which the septic tank is cleaned from bottom sediments. If this is not done, then the septic tank will have to be cleaned manually.
What to make a septic tank
To prevent untreated wastewater from entering the ground The septic tank must be watertight.
Single-chamber plastic septic tank of an independent sewerage system of a private house. Bypass pipe - bypass, serves to circulate air in the sewer ventilation system. Available for sale septic tanks made of plastic. Plastic septic tanks are lightweight, easy to transport and quick to install. Plastic septic tanks are easily deformed by soil pressure and damaged by stones during backfilling of the soil, they tend to float to the surface of the earth.
Manufacturers offer one-, two- and three-chamber plastic septic tanks of various capacities.
Concrete septic tanks made at the construction site. For the manufacture of a septic tank, ready-made concrete rings for wells are used or a monolithic container is made by pouring concrete into the formwork.
The septic tank can be laid out from a corpulent ceramic brick on a concrete base. The walls of a brick septic tank are plastered from the inside cement-sand mortar with additives that increase the water resistance of the plaster. Plaster thickness 20 mm. From the outside, brick septic tanks are covered with a hot bitumen composition over a bituminous primer.
Do-it-yourself construction of a septic tank is usually cheaper than buying and installing ready-made.
Concrete ring septic tank
The figure shows a drawing from a typical design project for a single-chamber septic tank from standard concrete ringsproduced by factories of reinforced concrete structures. The diameter and number of concrete rings are selected based on the required size (volume of drains) of the septic tank (see above).
For example, the septic tank shown in the drawing, of two standard concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 meters, the height of the chamber is 1.8 m. can cater for a family of five. The useful capacity of such a septic tank is 2.6 m 3(from the bottom to the exhaust pipe).
Septic tank of two rings with a diameter of 2 meters cope with the sewerage of a house where 10 people live. Useful capacity of the septic tank 4.8 m 3.
Of the three rings with a diameter of 1 meter, you can make a septic tank for a family of 3 people. The useful capacity of such a septic tank is 1.6 m 3.
The septic tank floor slab can be located at a depth of 0.4 - 0.9 m from the site level. The manhole in the septic tank is made of a concrete standard ring with a diameter of 0.7 - 1.0 m. or laid out from solid bricks.
Septic tank protected from freezing, laying foam or extruded polystyrene foam insulation on the floor slab and walls. The walls of the septic tank are insulated to a depth of about 1.0 meters from the surface of the earth. The hole in the septic tank at the level of the floor slab is closed with an insulated lid.
Tees, pos. 3 in the picture on the left. A tee on the supply pipe directs newly received effluents down, preventing strong mixing of the liquid in the septic tank.
On the outlet pipe, a tee is necessary in order to maintain a crust on the surface of the drains in the septic tank. The crust provides an anaerobic (without access to oxygen) mode of decomposition of contaminants.
The upper channels of the tees at the ends of the pipes in the septic tank provide free air movement from the exhaust pipe, through the septic tank, into the supply pipe and further into the ventilation of the sewer riser in the house. In plastic septic tanks, for this purpose, a bypass pipe is mounted outside - a bypass connecting the inlet and outlet pipes of the septic tank.
Pipe, pos.1 in the figure, diameter 80-100 mm. is installed along the same axis with a tee on the exhaust pipe and serves to clean the tee. The pipe is permanently closed at the top pos.2.
The tee on the supply pipe is cleaned through the neck of the septic tank. For this, a hole in the septic tank is made above the tee of the supply pipe.
The downpipe from the house to the septic tank usually has a short length (5-10 m.) and is laid at a shallow depth. The pipe section from the house to the septic tank is recommended to be laid with a greater slope than is customary, at least 2.5-3% towards the septic tank.
The temperature of the drains at the exit from the house is approximately +15 about S. With increased slope drains have time to run to the septic tank in winter without having time to cool down in the pipe even without additional insulation.
Has a similar design from concrete rings, designed only for collecting wastewater, pumping and removing them with a sewage truck. There is no pipe for discharging wastewater to local treatment facilities in such a septic tank. And the pipe for cleaning the tee is used as an air intake of the ventilation system.
Sealing a septic tank
To prevent untreated water from entering the ground, it is necessary to seal the septic tank. To do this, a bituminous primer is applied to the bottom and walls of the septic tank from the inside, and then pasted over with a waterproofing material.
The outer walls of the septic tank and the manhole are waterproofed with bituminous mastic, which protects the concrete from ground moisture.
Many builders ask the question: Why seal a septic tank? if the effluent after the septic tank still enters the groundwater treatment plant?
The fact is that the effluent entering the septic tank contains a large number of pathogens. Leaking from a non-hermetic septic tank, they will infect the soil in the area. Getting into ground water they easily travel long distances, infecting water in wells and wells.
As a result of the processes described above, drains in a sealed septic tank are freed from pathogens dying in the anaerobic conditions of a septic tank. A significant part of other pollution settles to the bottom and turns into substances that are less dangerous for humans and the natural environment.
Approximately 70% of contaminants remain in a properly arranged septic tank. From the septic tank, much less dangerous effluents come into the groundwater treatment plant. Don't forget to seal your septic tank.
Septic tank maintenance and cleaning
In a new septic tank, it is necessary to create conditions for the rapid accumulation of microflora, which carries out anaerobic digestion of contaminants.
To populate the necessary microorganisms in a new septic tank two weeks after the start of use, it is recommended to load mature sediment from an existing septic tank in an amount based on approximately 20-30 liters per 1 m 3 useful volume of the septic tank. Without the introduction of microflora from the outside, the normal cleaning process will start only after a few months.
On sale there are preparations - bioactivators, which contain microorganisms necessary for the operation of a septic tank. Be careful - you should buy drugs intended to activate anaerobic septic tanks. Loading a bioactivator intended for an active aerobic septic tank into an anaerobic septic tank will be harmful.
It is useful to use a bioactivator for a new septic tank, as well as in case of violation of the septic tank, for example, after a long winter break at the beginning of the summer season. It does not make sense to constantly use bioactivators for an anaerobic septic tank, as advertising sometimes advises.
It cannot be allowed to the amount of liquid in the septic tank, due to accumulated bottom sediments, greatly decreased and became less than 80% of the calculated volume. The bottom surface of the floating skin must not drop to the bottom edge of the tee. The sediment level is controlled by lowering a wooden rail into the septic tank.
Cleaning begins with removing the crust with a scoop from a mesh with holes of 3-4 mm.
For pumping out sediments, a sewage machine is usually used - an ilosos. Ilosos with a special vacuum pump sucks a rather thick silty mass from the bottom of the septic tank into its tank.
When cleaning by hand, sludge is scooped out from the bottom with a scoop on a long handle. Before cleaning, water is pumped out using a special fecal pump.
In order to ensure that the wastewater treatment process is not interrupted after sludge removal, about 15-20% of sludge is left in the septic tank from the intended volume.
Should not enter the septic tank large quantities of rough paper, cloth, pads, tampons, packaging film, vegetable waste - anything that slowly decomposes.
If the process of decomposition of contaminants in the septic tank is normal, then the acidity of the effluents at the outlet of the septic tank should be in the range of Ph = 6.5 - 7.5. The color of the sediment in the septic tank is dark gray. Drains at the time of exit from a properly functioning septic tank should be dirty-brown in color, transparent and odorless of hydrogen sulfide.
If the drains from the septic tank are stored in a jar for several days, then a precipitate will form and an unpleasant odor will appear. This is the result of the decomposition of pollutants remaining in the effluents by already aerobic bacteria.
So that the soil filter after the septic tank does not quickly silt up, the concentration of suspended solids in the wastewater after the septic tank should not exceed 100 mg/l.
A few months after the new septic tank is put into operation, it is recommended to take samples a couple of times and in the laboratory determine this indicator and the acidity value - Ph, for wastewater from your septic tank. The cost of analysis is small, and confidence in correct work septic tank adds.
Some sources of information claim that in European countries multi-chamber septic tanks of increased volume are used, designed to store wastewater in a septic tank for 10 days (and not 3 days, as in the Russian Federation), As a result of a longer stay in a septic tank, the degree of wastewater treatment increases. The concentration of suspended solids in wastewater at the outlet of such a septic tank is less than 25 mg/l. Effluent with such a concentration in Europe can be dumped onto the terrain, into water bodies.
According to sanitary standards in Russia, effluents with a suspended solids concentration of not more than 2 are suitable for discharge into water bodies. mg/l. Therefore, in the Russian Federation, 3-day volume septic tanks are used with additional treatment facilities.
Where to buy a septic tank
Deadly septic tank
Decomposition of contaminants in wastewater toxic gases are produced— carbon dioxide, methane, hydrogen sulfide. Gases from the septic tank are removed through the natural ventilation system of the sewer riser in the house.
Even after emptying, the septic tank may remain lethal concentrations of hazardous gases for humans. Gases are heavier than air, some of them are contained in the sediment at the bottom of the septic tank. natural ventilation often unable to reduce the concentration of these gases to safe levels.
It is strictly forbidden for a person to enter the septic tank without security measures. Immediately before descending into the septic tank, it is necessary for at least 30 minutes forcibly ventilate the septic tank by supplying air from the compressor through the hose or other blower . The end of the hose must be near the bottom, and the amount of air supplied to the septic tank during the specified time must be at least ten times the volume of the septic tank. The air supply should not be interrupted while working in a septic tank.
During work, the open hatch of the septic tank must be protected. Manhole - the lid of the septic tank should not open easily without the use of a tool - so safer for kids.
At the next stage of treatment, effluent from the septic tank enters the drainage system - absorption field, filter well or filter field.
In the following article you will learn:
- How to make an absorption field or a filter field do it yourself.
- Right filter well.
- How to perform sewer freeze protection.
- sewer ventilation
