The chain of events prompted me to write this publication, which forced me to try my hand at self-servicing a gas boiler. I will note right away - this is not exactly an "exchange of best practices", as it is usually presented, since some of the stated facts speak, on the contrary, about the initial complete inexperience of the user. But, perhaps, the information presented will help those who read it to avoid such mistakes.
The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the network, we had to face the fact that intelligible step by step instructions it's not so easy to find - more often than not, everything is limited to selective tips on the forums. The factory operating manual illuminates many problems rather dryly, and does not bring much clarity, and some important aspects in general, it is practically overlooked, which, in principle, led to the situation that will be discussed. So, what caused and how the cleaning of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 was carried out with your own hands.
How it all began
We moved into our own house in September 2002. The heating system was (and still is), but then it was organized according to the principle of natural circulation. Boiler room - in a separate annex, equipped according to all available rules. An old cast iron boiler with gas burners, some, as I remember now, are incredible large sizes, also with "self-made" masonry from fireclay bricks inside. It was complete ruin with him: every month in our not the coldest winters (Moldova, Transnistria), the counter turned up 800 cubic meters!
In short, it was decided to replace it. We opted for AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost, and given the mass good reviews about this model from friends. Simultaneously was installed and circulation pump... The results were not long in coming - already the next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all the rooms. And the monthly gas consumption fell by more than three times! - we usually fit in 220 - 270 cubic meters.
Prices for gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3
gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3
To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in the cold winter of 2008-2009, when the next "gas war" was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task - it was not hot at home, and we were not threatened with freezing. Honestly, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that many houses have a gas valve button permanently tied to such ones - no problems with the automation for the entire period of operation simply appeared.
The inspectors of the gas sector in our city are regularly visiting. There have never been any special complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before the insert into the main pipe) with a galvanized one. The flaw has been eliminated.
This year the cold snap came early, and already at the beginning of October it was decided to start the boiler at the lowest power. But a problem arose - the fuse of the igniter did not want to ignite, and if it did, it did so with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not warm up the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.
A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch lit up immediately, but was weak) was observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly jammed, and last year it helped that I (at my own peril and risk) managed to spray a can of carburetor cleaning fluid on this "jet" through a long curved tube. After the liquid evaporated, I tried to light it up - everything worked, and last winter, during the entire heating season, no more problems arose.
Last year, we managed to do without a showdown - the nozzle was cleaned of such liquid for carburetors But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect was even the opposite. The igniter stopped firing altogether.
I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas unit with burners (and then I didn’t know how affordable it was). I tried by unscrewing the gas supply pipe to the igniter from the magnetic valve block and blow it out with a car pump. Useless. There was nothing to do - I had to think about how to remove the entire burner block in order to mechanically clean the igniter nozzle.
The boiler is naturally connected, the system is full. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still in a special pit. At first, all this was very frightening - how to dismantle the gas unit? I did not find any sensible advice, but I came across a tip on one of the forums - this unit rotates about the central axis - the gas inlet pipe.
Since no operations of any significant scale were expected, I did not take a photo at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later when the boiler was disassembled again. But the essence remains the same.
- So, if you try to look at the boiler from below (for the initial examination of the "situation" I first used a mirror placed underneath), something like this opens up:
The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. 1 shows the inlet of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the inlet for the pilot and thermocouple tubes. And this entire unit, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flange of the cylindrical boiler casing by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate at the vertices of a regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one located slightly to the left of the ignition window.
The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you stand facing the ignition window).
The third is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of the vertical pipes going down to the pallet.
Gas boiler prices
gas boiler
- After a thorough examination of the entire bottom part, I did not find any other fastening or fixing elements. This means that there must be grooves through which these protrusions can be disengaged from the casing flange. As a result, it turned out that there is only one groove, and it is located in the area of the third hook (during the show). To get on it, the pallet must be rotated slightly clockwise. In the illustration, the direction of rotation is shown with a green arrow. By the way, the opening unpainted section of the casing is also clearly visible - you can see how the pallet is displaced.
- I figured out the principle of fastening. But in order to turn the pallet and remove the burner block, of course, it is necessary to disconnect the gas pipe, the igniter tube and the thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit.
- First of all, I checked again if the gas supply from the home distribution was shut off.
- Then he carefully unscrewed the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.
1 - tube for gas supply to the igniter torch. Key for 12.
2 - a tube with a thermocouple contact. Key for 12.
3 - gas supply pipe to the main burner. Key for 27.
The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe has been removed. Checked - excellent condition. On the flare tube - the gasket remained on the tee fitting, but also - it is clear that it is not worn out, and will still serve quite well.
- After disassembling this unit, the pallet turned quite easily, and through the groove the holder closest to the tubes disengaged from the casing. Now, supporting the pallet from below, slightly push it towards ourselves - and the other two holders also disengaged. We lower the entire unit to the floor, and then gently pull it out between the legs of the boiler.
The photo shows the removed pallet, but I'll make a reservation once again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The picture was much cleaner the first time. Further, it will be clear from the text why so much attention is paid to this.
- I checked the condition of the main burner - it was completely clean, without any signs of deformation. There were no complaints about her work.
- Then he turned to the "culprit" of this whole venture - to the ignition torch nozzle. Unscrew the two screws holding this assembly (wick plus thermocouple) in the assembled position. The screws, however, resisted at first, but after processing the WD-40 they still went. He removed the box-shaped cover from the ignition burner, got to the nozzle.
The brass nozzle itself was covered with a light white coating (such as scale) on top, and it was removed very quickly, without effort, with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely "drawn" even visually. Also okay - I took a thin copper vein from the loose cable and cleaned the hole. To guarantee, I also blew it under pressure with a pump from the side of the tube connecting to the tee of the automation unit. The whole task is completed!
- At the same time, while there is free access, I very carefully cleaned the bend of the thermocouple tube with a "zero" sandpaper: there was a very light layer of oxide - it had accumulated during the summer inactivity.
- He carefully assembled all the units in reverse order. I suffered a little with the re-installation of the pallet - but then I got used to it.
It is necessary first to progressively, without skewing, raise this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the casing flange. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push the entire unit towards you, give a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!). Then, moving the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they go to the flange of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut-out groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The amount of this rotation will be visually prompted by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be right under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.
- I installed all the tubes in place, after checking the presence and correct fit of the gaskets. I tightened the nuts on the gas supply pipe and on the igniter tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, very carefully, literally barely touching, I cleaned the contact pads with a "zero". This nut, in accordance with the recommendations read, was tightened not with a wrench, but by hand, only with the effort of fingers.
- I checked the tightness of the connections - I brought a sponge from the kitchen with detergent, opened the gas supply, "flushed" the joints of the gas pipes - everything is fine, there are no signs of a leak.
- I tried to start the boiler. The wick lit up perfectly - with an even flame, "washing" the bend of the thermocouple. Literally in 15-20 seconds - the gas valve worked. I waited a couple of minutes, then opened the gas supply to the main burner - it lit up evenly, without a pop. I experimented - several times I closed and opened the feed to the main burner: everything is fine - the wick burns evenly, does not go out, the burner ignites in the same way.
Everything, set about the required heating level, closed the flap on the ignition window, and left, full of pride in the work done successfully.
I didn’t know then that my "adventures" were just beginning!
Find out by studying the main assessment criteria in a special article on our portal.
Unexpected problem
For several days the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not die out, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell appeared in the boiler room - this is not the smell of pure gas, but rather the "aroma" of burnt gas. In addition, the impression began to appear that, according to the sensations of the home, the warmth began to be lacking.
A couple of times the boiler went out at night - for no apparent reason. And then - more. About a week later, entering the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame is trying to "get out" through the ignition window closed with a shield. Enough large plot The metal casing over the window was almost red-hot, the paint on it was completely burnt to the "clean" metal.
Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to carry out the ignition. The wick works fine, the automation works well too. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flame tongues. And secondly - the "crown" of the flame is not directed completely upward, but also tends to the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.
It is clear - this clear sign the fact that inside the boiler the flow of hot gases meets some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. Soot is everywhere, even on the bypass of the ignition window - it has never happened before that I somehow got my hands dirty when firing up, and now black spots appear on my fingers, by the way, very difficult to wash off even with warm water and soap.
But the question remains unclear - why? Indeed, for so many years, I have never had to face such a problem.
Climbed through the forums again - to look for the reason. And on one of them I came across useful advice- such a picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without the supply of additional air. He began to understand more closely with the design of his boiler, and revealed something that he simply did not pay attention to earlier. This is a clamp-like damper at the inlet of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the sump. There, on the pipe, there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.
I ran to check: it is - the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the "materiel" led to the fact that I did not pay attention to this nuance at all. And in the process of disassembling the burner block, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which air access was blocked.
I tried to open these windows and fire up the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the "crown", of course, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.
Cleaning the boiler
It is clear that in order to carry out cleaning, I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and plus to this - remove the top cover of the boiler.
- I had to suffer a little with the removal of the umbrella, passing into the metal part of the chimney. The fact is that in the boiler room itself - a brick, root type, installed on a foundation, and two pipes are embedded in it - from the boiler and, above, from the gas water heater.
He built the boiler pipe himself, did it in due time with high quality, and it "sits" very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a little backlash. But in the end it turned out - we managed to raise it so that there was enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture was very colorful.
Already under the umbrella itself deposits of soot are visible. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider - condensate collector - there is a soft loose layer of soot about 10 millimeters thick.
- To remove the top cover of the boiler, you must first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor. It is held on the lid by plates, which are screwed on with two self-tapping screws (shown by blue arrows in the illustration above). But no matter how much I twisted these self-tapping screws, they turned in place, not straying up a millimeter. In the end, I spat on this business - I decided to remove the cover along with the sensor. To do this, first, with a 14 wrench, he unscrewed the nut connecting the tube with the tee of the automation unit.
I immediately checked the paronite gasket - it was "alive", remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.
- Further, it would seem, everything is simple - the lid is fixed on the boiler casing with three self-tapping screws.
The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.
But the other two showed "fierce resistance." They simply did not want to start moving. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 processing, nor tapping helped - they stand motionless.
In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to "lick" - but all with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the self-tapping screws with a grinder, fortunately, they are not made "under the sweat".
Prices for self-tapping screws
self-tapping screws
It's okay - I cut it very carefully. Looking ahead, I will say that I subsequently replaced these fasteners with roofing screws with a hex head - in case of future boiler cleaning. Holds even better, and twisting is no problem.
- The lid was tight, and I even had to tap it a little from the bottom - resting a wooden block on the bottom edge. After that, she evenly starred.
On the back side of the cover there are clearly visible traces that remained due to the incorrect passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler casing, then converging to the central opening of the chimney.
Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather warmed up the boiler room than gave off heat to the system. It is better to keep silent about the safety of such functioning.
- The boiler water heat exchanger is covered from above with its own cover. It is fixed and tightly pressed to it with the help of special fasteners - metal wedges (in the illustration above they are shown with yellow arrows). These clips are removed very easily.
I thought they were spring-loaded - nothing like that. These wedges are made from regular mild steel, and their tendrils are curved in the same way as regular cotter pins. They are easily brought to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.
- In the same way, he removed all the stoppers, and then removed the cover. And I was horrified ...
This small gap between the heat exchanger and the lid, in which the gas flows from the three channels must be combined into one central one to exit the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.
- Now it is necessary to remove the gas flow turbulators from the channels of the heat exchanger. They gave in without much resistance when he picked them up with the pliers.
The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the soot layer on the turbulator blades is impressive in its thickness!
At the same time, I immediately see the state of these vertical cylindrical channels. The picture is appropriate ...
Naturally, even if the draft problems are "taken out of the brackets", there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler with such an overgrown heat exchanger outside.
- Further, I removed the boiler pan with the burner block - I have already described how this operation is performed above.
- That's it, you can go directly to cleaning all the nodes. For this operation, a regular plastic bottle brush was purchased from a hardware store - it will go for vertical channels. Tied it up with duct tape to wooden lath to traverse the canals along their entire height.
I know that blue duct tape is a "classic" for home art, but I only had a white one 🙂 And to clean the rest of the parts and surfaces, I bought a flat brush with soft brass bristles.
- I start cleaning from the upper plane of the heat exchanger - I clean it and sweep down all the soot soot. It turned out as shown in the illustration above.
- Then I move on to cleaning the channels. The soot leaves the walls quite easily - it has not yet had time to "harden". Characteristically, it is very oily.
- After cleaning the boiler itself, I turn to the removed parts and assemblies. In order not to dilute excess dirt in the boiler room, I transfer all this action to the yard.
The burner itself is clean this time, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off with a brush. At the same time, I immediately clean up the thermocouple tube with a "zero" - it will not hurt.
- After completing the cleaning operation, I proceed to the reassembly of the boiler. First, I installed the burner block in place - this has already been described above. I immediately connected all the pipes, checked the gaskets and tightened the nuts.
And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the valve of the air channel. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I really don't know why), but when reverse installation it turned out that it was made of mild steel, and did not possess any springy qualities. After installation, he began to dangle and just slide down. I had to make a small improvement - to drill holes in the "ears", and after putting on the damper, tighten it a little with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in the given position, but it is not difficult to move it either.
The illustration shows the air inlets are half open.
- The next step is to replace the turbulators.
The installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the broadening of the central metal plate located on top. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangentially to the circle.
- The next step is to replace the heat exchanger cover. The eyelets for the clips are inserted into the slots in the cover.
I insert metal cotter pins-wedges into the slots of the lugs, and lightly knock them out from the back - so that the lid fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that's it, the lid is securely fixed.
- Next, I put the top cover of the boiler in place. The holes from the only self-tapping screw that came out normally help to navigate with its correct position. In my case, the draft sensor was not removed - it is already in place, and all that remains is to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut.
- I finish the assembly by installing the cap. I slip it under the pipe, put it on its bell (it fits very tightly), and then carefully put it in place. Three protrusions on the cap should fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler lid, and the cut out semicircular window will be positioned above the passing tube of the temperature sensor.
- Naturally, after that all connections were checked for tightness.
- I turn to the long-awaited moment - to start the boiler. The wick caught fire immediately, and after 15 seconds the magnetic valve worked. So far so good.
I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the tongues of flame, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed pronouncedly upward, which was required to be proved!
- I tried to "play" with the air damper. As a result, I had to open it a little more - I achieved an even blue flame, practically without admixtures of red or orange shades. The experimental shut-off and gas supply (simulation of boiler shutdowns and starts) was successful - the igniter torch is stable, and the burner ignites immediately and almost silently.
Two weeks have passed since then - there were no complaints about the boiler's operation! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not present us with any unpleasant surprises.
And for myself I decided the following:
- To be more attentive to the little things of any design - everything has its purpose, and ill-considered actions can lead to emergency situations.
- The cleaning process is mastered, it is not so complicated, so I will carry it out regularly - before the beginning of each heating season, at least for prevention.
Find out how to do it by studying the mandatory requirements in a special article on our portal.
The author is aware that such work, in fact, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should be regarded not as a guide to action, but only as a story about what happened - about how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and required their urgent elimination. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.
What is a gas boiler aogv? The abbreviation means that this is a gas hot water heating device, that is, a gas boiler for house or apartment heating systems. From the usual boilers that are installed in individual heating systems, gas boilers AOGV are distinguished by the fact that they have complete non-volatility (the ability to fully operate in an autonomous mode, without being connected to the electrical network), are equipped automatic system(ACS) control and management, which can control the modes of equipment, air draft controllers and flame force in the wick without human intervention.
Features and differences of AOGV from other gas heaters
Versatility and autonomy are the main advantages of a boiler in a private house. The versatility lies in the fact that the equipment can operate not only from a centralized gas pipeline, but also from bottled gas - it is enough to change the type of burner. In addition, in the absence of electricity, the electronic control system is successfully replaced by mechanical automation - this is complete energy independence and autonomy.
For housing of different sizes, you can select boilers of the appropriate power, and this parameter is reflected in the labeling of the unit: for example, the brand of the AOGV 17 boiler is deciphered as a gas hot water heating apparatus with a maximum power of 17 kW. 
Heat generating elements of the unit: automation devices and sensors, combustion chamber, jacket (heat exchanger), air duct (chimney duct). In the Russian Federation, the main suppliers of this autonomous heating equipment are the Borinsky and Zhukovsky plants - all Zhukovsky and Borinsky plants are floor-mounted. Borinsky plant is engaged in the production of floor-type heaters in a rectangular case, with automatic equipment located in the back of the same case. All automatics are mounted in different versions and configurations - it can be domestic mechanical and / or electronic equipment, as well as European or American automatics.
Borinsky plant manufactures boilers with a nominal power of 7, 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in two modifications - a single-circuit boiler and a combined unit with two circuits, and this allows heating even small houses with with total area up to 70 m 2. In this feature, the advantage of Borin aggregates over Zhukovsk ones, which are intended for large areas, is manifested.
The copper thermocouple is the next main element of the circuit, which activates the solenoid valve, which shuts off the gas into the combustion chamber when the wick decays. The combustion chamber, which is equipped with gas boilers for a private house of the AOGV brand, is open, which means that air to maintain combustion enters the chamber from the surrounding atmosphere. Such a device of the installation scheme should provide for the presence of both natural and forced ventilation in a private house. But with good natural draft, the electric fan can only be used in extreme cases. 
The jacket with the coolant is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber, above the burner. Both circuits (if the boiler is double-circuit) have their own separate heat exchanger with separate flows of water and / or heat carrier.
Zhukovsky Machine-Building Plant manufactures boilers with nominal power of 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in three versions: an economical heater (economy class), a universal boiler (station wagon class), and a comfort class.
Automation differs in these units - in terms of configuration and country of origin. All boilers have piezoelectric ignition of the burner, which corresponds to the definition of heater autonomy. Depending on the power of the device, according to the marking in the passport, you can find out what area a particular unit can heat. 
Heater parameters
The high efficiency of AOGV - up to 92% - means that the installation of this equipment will bring maximum heating efficiency, and this is due to original design shirts. Boilers can operate in heating systems with forced or natural circulation coolant, provided that the pressure in the system is not less than 1.4 atm. Such conditions will be able to provide a liquid temperature of + 40 / + 90 0 С.
The disadvantage of this equipment can be considered too high power - even the smallest boiler produced by the Zhukovsky plant is designed to heat an area of at least 200 m 2, which means that its installation in small houses will be impractical and consumable.
The burner in any modification and brand of the boiler is made of stainless steel, so its durability is guaranteed. The jacket for hot water supply is made of copper, the body of the unit is coated with polymer or powder paint. Standard automation has temperature sensors and regulators to control the temperature of the coolant and prevent the boiler from overheating. The package also includes a thermocouple that controls the gas flow rate, and an air flow stabilizer, which serves to compensate for air pressure drops during gusts of wind, and in calm weather shuts off the gas. 
| Names | AOGB-11.6 | AOGBK-11.6 | AOGB-17.4 | AOGBK-17.4 | AOGB-23.2 | AOGBK-23.2 | AOGB-29 | AOGB-35 | AOGBK-35 |
| Indicators | |||||||||
| Rated power, kW | 11,6 | 11,6 | 17,4 | 17,4 | 23,2 | 23,2 | 29,0 | 29,0 | 35,0 |
| Consumption of main or cylinder gas | |||||||||
| Main, m Z / h | 1,19 | 1,19 | 1,75 | 1,75 | 2,32 | 2,32 | 2,95 | 3,56 | 3,56 |
| Balloon, kg / h | 0,865 | 0,865 | 1,215 | 1,215 | – | – | – | – | – |
| Heated area, square meters | 120 | 120 | 100-200 | 100-200 | 100-250 | 100-250 | 150-300 | 150-400 | 150-400 |
| Efficiency ≥ 90% | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 |
| DHW consumption when heating water at 35 ° C, liters per minute | – | 3,5 | – | 3,5 | – | 7,0 | – | – | 10,0 |
| Connection thread, inches | 1/2 | 1/2 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 |
| Lead in / out | |||||||||
| To the heating system | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| To the DHW system | – | 1/2 | – | 1/2 | – | 1/2 | – | 1/2 | – |
| Diameter of the gas outlet, ≥ decimeters | 1,15 | 1,15 | 1,25 | 1,25 | 1,38 | 1,38 | 1,38 | 1,38 | 1,38 |
| Dimensions, cm | |||||||||
| Height | 86,5 | 86,5 | 86,5 | 86,5 | 85,0 | 85,0 | 85,0 | 85,0 | 85,0 |
| Width | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 33,0 | 33,0 | 38,0 | 38,0 | 38,0 |
| Depth | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 |
| Weight, kg | 43,0 | 47,0 | 49,0 | 52,0 | 56,0 | 72,0 | 65,0 | 80,0 | 82,0 |
| In models with a power of 23.2 29 and 35 kW - rectangular case | |||||||||
AOGV insert into heating
Professional installation of a gas heater in a private house costs about 1.5 times less than the average cost of a boiler. Any unit can work as in, while the non-volatility properties are preserved in any case.
Sealed circuit standard installation - explanation:
- The coolant flows from the heater to the batteries with mandatory installed air vents;
- On the return pipe, in front of the boiler entrance, a circulation pump cuts in, a coarse filter cuts in front of it;
- The expansion tank cuts into the system before the pump.
In open-type heating systems, the expansion tank itself serves as an air vent; therefore, it is not necessary to install valves on all radiators. The tank cuts into the coolant supply pipe, above the gas boiler, at the highest point of the pipeline, it is also allowed to cut it into the return pipe. In systems with natural circulation of the coolant, it is necessary to ensure the required slope of the pipes (20 per 10 linear meters) so that the liquid does not stagnate in the system, but circulates freely.
AOGV advantages and management
When decoding the abbreviation, the advantages of the units become clear, namely:
- Simple and easy control of the heating gas unit allows you to organize safe and affordable regulation of the temperature of the coolant within the specified parameters;
- All devices, parts and components are manufactured using high-precision technologies, but what is it in practice? This is an absolute guarantee of safety and reliability of gas equipment operation. In addition, some models have manual gas shutdown and coolant temperature control;
- All AOGV brands are non-volatile, that is, they are not tied to power grids and are completely autonomous;
- Piping in the heating system can be done with any pipes - polypropylene, cast iron, steel or metal-plastic;
- The heat exchanger (jacket) is usually made of copper, which ensures durability of operation;
- Pressure drops in the gas pipeline do not affect the stability of operation;
- A high degree of thermal protection ensures maximum heat transfer from the unit and the system as a whole.
Installation of AOGV is advisable only in private residential buildings, and not in apartments because of their high power and large size.
PURPOSE
The device is designed for heat supply of residential premises and buildings for communal and domestic purposes, equipped with water heating systems with a water column height in the water circuit of no more than 6.5 m.The device is designed for continuous operation on natural gas in accordance with GOST 5542-87.
The device is manufactured in climatic version UHL, category 4.2 in accordance with GOST 15150-69.
| Specifications | Safety devices |
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(see the connection diagram in the present passport of the device)
SPECIFICATIONS
| Parameter or size name | The magnitude | ||
| AOGV- 11.6-1 | AOGV-17.4-1 | AOGV-23.2-1 | |
| 1. Fuel | Natural gas | ||
| 2. Nominal pressure natural gas in front of the automation unit, Pa (mm.w.c.) | 1274 (130) | ||
| Natural gas pressure range, mm.w.st. | 65…180* 1 | ||
| 3. The volumetric content of carbon monoxide in dry undiluted combustion products of natural gas,% no more | 0,05 | ||
| 4. Coefficient useful action apparatus,% not less | 89 | ||
| 5. Heat carrier | water | ||
| 6. Heat carrier parameters, no more: | 0,1 |
||
| - absolute pressure, MPa; | |||
| - maximum temperature, ºС | 95 | ||
| - carbonate hardness, mg-eq / kg, no more | 0,7 | ||
| - content of suspended solids | missing | ||
| 7. Rated thermal power of the automatic burner, kW (kcal / h) | 11,6 (10000) | 17,4 (15000) | 23,2 (20000) |
| 8. Size of the gas inlet connection: | |||
| - nominal bore DN, mm | 15 | 20 | 20 |
| G 1/2 -B | G 3/4 -B | G 3/4 -B | |
| 9. Safety automation parameters | |||
| - gas supply shutdown time for pilot and main burners, sec |
|||
| - when the gas supply is cut off or there is no flame on the ignition burner, no more |
60 | ||
| - in the absence of draft in the chimney, no more, no less | 10 | ||
| 10. Vacuum in the chimney behind the device, Pa | 2.94 to 29.4 | ||
| mm. water Art. | 0.3 to 3.0 | ||
| 11. Nominal bore of water connecting pipes DN, mm | 40 | 50 | 50 |
| - thread according to GOST 6357 - 81, inch | G 1 1/2 -B | G 2 -B | G 2 -B |
| 12. Weight of the apparatus, kg, no more | 45 | 50 | 55 |
| 13. Heated area, m 2, no more | 90 | 140 | 190 |
| 14.Capacity of the heat exchanger tank, liter | 39,7 | 37,7 | 35 |
| 15. Maximum temperature of combustion products discharged into the chimney, ° С (at a gas pressure of 180 mm.w.c.) | 130 | 160 | 210 |
| * 1 NOTE. The device is protected against emergency supply of inlet gas pressure up to 500 mm. water Art. gas valve design. | |||
DEVICE AND PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION.
The device consists of the following units and parts: a tank - a heat exchanger, a main burner, an ignition burner unit with a thermocouple and an ignition electrode installed in it, a combined gas valve (multifunctional regulator), a weight stabilizer, and lining parts.
In the upper part of the tank - heat exchanger, a thermostat sensor is installed, connected by a capillary tube to the actuator of the thermostatic valve (system "bellows - thermo bulb"), and a thermometer sensor
The design feature of the 630 EUROSIT combination valve is the presence of a device for stabilizing the outlet gas pressure, as well as the combination of valve control in one handle with the designation of positions by the corresponding symbols and numbers on its end and an indicator on the valve cover. The dependence of the heated water temperature on the position of the control handle scale is shown below:
The principle of operation of the temperature controller is based on the expansion of the liquid when heated. Working fluid, being heated in the sensor (thermal bulb) from the water in the tank - heat exchanger, heated by the combustion of natural gas, it expands and flows through the capillary tube into the bellows, converting the volumetric expansion into a linear movement of the mechanism that drives the system of two valves (instantaneous and metering). The design of the mechanism provides protection against thermal overload, which protects the system "bellows - thermal bulb" from damage and depressurization.
- When the required water temperature in the device is set with the control knob to increase, the instant (click) valve first opens, then the metering valve.
- When the water temperature in the device reaches the set value, the dosing valve is smoothly closed, transferring the main burner to the "low gas" mode.
- When the temperature rises above the set point, an instant (click) valve is triggered, completely shutting off the gas to the main burner.
- In the absence of draft in the chimney, the exhaust gases from the furnace heat the draft sensor, the sensor is triggered by opening the normally closed contacts of the thermocouple circuit. The solenoid (inlet) valve closes and shuts off gas access to the main and pilot burners. The thrust sensor is designed to be triggered during the absence of thrust for at least 10 seconds.
- When the gas supply from the network is interrupted, the ignition burner instantly goes out, the thermocouple cools down, the solenoid valve closes, blocking the access of gas to the main and pilot burners. When the gas supply is resumed, the passage through the apparatus is completely closed.
- When the gas pressure in the network drops below 0.65 kPa, the gas pressure on the pilot burner will also drop, the emf of the thermocouple will drop to a value that is insufficient to hold the valve. The solenoid valve will close and shut off gas access to the burners.
PLACEMENT AND INSTALLATION
The placement and installation of the apparatus, as well as the supply of gas to it, is carried out by a specialized construction and installation organization according to the project agreed with the operating enterprise (trust) of the gas economy.
The room where the device is installed must have free air access from the outside and a ventilation hood near the ceiling.
The temperature of the room in which the device is installed should not be lower than +5 ºС.
The choice of a place for the installation of the device should be made in accordance with the instructions of safety measures set forth in section 7 of this passport.
The device is installed against non-combustible walls at a distance of at least 10 cm from the wall.
- When installing the device near a fire-resistant wall, its surface must be insulated with a steel sheet against an asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, protruding 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the case. There must be a passageway at least 1 meter wide in front of the apparatus.
- When installing the device on a combustible floor, the floor must be insulated with a steel sheet over an asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The insulation should protrude 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the case.
Before starting the installation, it is necessary to de-preserve the device, check the correctness of its assembly in accordance with Fig. 1 and fig. 8 of this passport, and make sure that all parts and assembly units are securely and completely secured.
Connect the device to the chimney, gas pipeline and pipes of the heating system. The connecting pipes of the pipelines must be precisely matched to the location of the inlet fittings of the apparatus. The connection should not be accompanied by mutual interference of pipes and unit assemblies.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Persons who have studied this passport are allowed to service the device.
Installation and operation of devices must comply with the requirements of the "Rules for the design and safety of operation of hot water boilers, water heaters and steam boilers with overpressure", as well as the requirements of the "Rules for the safety of gas distribution and gas consumption systems. PB 12 - 529 ", approved by the Gosgortekhnadzor of Russia.
The operation of the devices must be carried out in accordance with the "Rules fire safety for residential buildings, hotels, hostels, buildings of administrative institutions and individual garages PPB - 01 - 03 ".
The operation of the device is allowed only with operable safety and temperature control automatics.
Gas safety equipment should provide:
- Reducing the gas supply when the water temperature in the heating system reaches the set value.
- Turning off the gas supply to the main burner when the preset heating temperature is exceeded.
- Turning off the gas supply to the device in the following cases:
- when the gas supply to the apparatus is interrupted (within a time period not exceeding 60 seconds);
- in the absence of draft vacuum or in the boiler furnace (for at least 10 seconds and not more than 60 seconds);
- when the pilot burner flame goes out (within a time period not exceeding 60 sec.).
When using the device, the temperature hot water should not exceed 95 ° C.
It is prohibited:
- operate the device with the heating system partially filled with water;
- use other liquids instead of water as a heat carrier **;
- install shut-off and control valves on the flow line and the pipeline connecting the heating system with expansion tank;
- operate the device in the event of a gas leak through the gas pipeline connections;
- use an open flame to detect gas leaks;
- operate the device in the event of a malfunction of the gas network, chimney or automation;
- independently eliminate malfunctions in the operation of the device;
- make any design changes to the apparatus, gas pipeline and heating system.
When the device is not working, all gas taps: in front of the burner and on the gas pipeline in front of the device - must be in the closed position (the valve handle is perpendicular to the gas pipeline).
All malfunctions during the operation of the apparatus on gas must be immediately reported to the emergency service of the operating enterprise of the gas economy.
If gas is found in the room, immediately stop supplying it, ventilate all rooms and call the emergency or repair service. Until the malfunction is eliminated, it is forbidden to light matches in the room, smoke, use
** It is allowed to use the household heat carrier "Olga" (manufacturer: ZAO "Plant of organic products") according to the instructions for use. After a period of operation, the coolant must be drained and disposed of.
The manufacturer reserves the right to make design changes and appearance products.
This technical documentation may differ from the description above, see the instruction manual enclosed with each boiler upon purchase.
Review of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Economy
The domestic gas heating boiler with a water circuit AOGV-11.6-3 Economy is designed for water heating of residential and office premises equipped with water heating systems (CO).
The device operates on natural and liquefied gases. The manufacturer supplies devices with natural gas injectors. To operate on liquefied gas, it is necessary to replace the nozzles for natural gas with nozzles for liquefied gas.
These units can be installed in a closed heating system with a membrane expansion tank. The pressure in the heating system in working condition (at a water temperature in the heating system of 60 - 80 ° C) should be no more than 1.5 kgf / cm2.
A safety valve must be installed on the riser (outlet pipe), adjusted to operate at a pressure in the heating system of 1.8 ± 0.1 kgf / cm2. To control the pressure in the heating system, a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 0.4 kg / cm2 must be installed.
Rice. 1. Heating gas boiler AOGV-11.6 household Economy
1. Traction breaker; 2. Door of the traction breaker; 3. Casing; 4. Traction sensor; 5. Branch pipe for installing a thermometer; 6. Thermal bulb for the automation unit; 7. Door; 8. Traction sensor cable; 9. Serpentine; 10. Automation block; 11. Gas cock; 12. Gas pipeline; 13. Igniter; 14. Thermocouple; 15. Shield; 16. Burner; 17.
Water supply pipe from CO; 18. Tank heat exchanger; 19. Turbulator; 20. Water outlet pipe to CO.
The device is designed as floor cabinet cylindrical, the front side of which is closed by a door that provides access for starting the device into operation and regulating heating modes.
Rice. 2. Boiler automation unit AOGV-11.6
1. Union nut of thermocouple; 2. Launcher button; 3. Union nut of the thrust sensor; 4. Sealing washer; 5. Stock; 6. Adjusting nut; 7. Sleeve;
8. Nut; 9. Screw.
The automation block is an electromechanical device and consists of a block body, inside which there are valves and a system of levers,
electromagnet, and serves to supply gas to the igniter and burner, regulate the water temperature and automatically turn off the gas supply when:
The fading of the igniter.
The drop in gas pressure in the network is below the permissible level or the gas supply is cut off;
Lack of draft in the chimney.
The traction switch 1 (Fig. 1) is intended for automatic stabilization of the vacuum value in the furnace of the apparatus, i.e. reducing the influence of fluctuations in the magnitude of the vacuum in the chimney on the draft in the furnace of the apparatus. For successful operation, the door of the traction breaker 2 should easily rotate on the axis.
The automatic equipment of the AOGV-11.6 gas boiler for regulating the water temperature consists of a bellows-thermal balloon assembly 6 installed inside the tank of the apparatus and a system of levers with a valve located in the automation unit.
An adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) is fixed on the body of the block, by rotating which you can adjust the automation to a temperature from 50 ° C to 90 ° C. This temperature change is caused by the movement of the bellows together with the stem 5 up (down) when the adjusting nut is rotated.
After heating the water to the temperature corresponding to the setting, the gas supply to the burner is automatically reduced and it switches to the “low fire” mode.
When the water temperature in the device drops (no more than 15 ° C) as a result of heat extraction during heating or hot water extraction, the gas supply to the burner automatically increases. The temperature of hot water in the hot water supply system during its intake should not exceed 60 ° C.
The thrust automation consists of a thrust sensor 4 (Fig. 1) mounted on the tank lid and a cable 8 connecting the thrust sensor to the magnetic box.
Fig. 3. Boiler ignition device AOGV-11.6
1. Thermocouple; 2. Igniter
The ignition device (Fig. 3) is intended for fastening the igniter, thermocouple and igniting the main burner. The pilot flame should wash over the end of the thermocouple.
The safety of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6 is ensured by automatic equipment, which is triggered when:
The extinction of the flame on the igniter;
Lack of draft in the chimney;
Gas supply interruption or gas pressure drop below the lower value.
In this case, the gas supply to the igniter and the main burner is automatically cut off.
Preparing the AOGV-11.6 boiler for operation
The room where the AOGV-11.6 boiler is installed must have free air access from the outside and a ventilation hood at the ceiling and meet the requirements for the placement of heating units intended for heating and hot water supply for single-family or
blocked residential buildings.
The installation of a boiler unit in a residential building is allowed only if there is a chimney with the removal of combustion products from the device into it. The chimney must meet all requirements.
The chimney channel must have a "free" cross-section not less than the diameter of the connecting gas outlet of the apparatus, be strictly vertical, smooth, even, without turns and constrictions.
The outer surface of the chimney, located above the roof, must be plastered cement mortar... The part of the chimney located in the attic must be plastered and insulated.
Below the place where the connecting pipe from the device is connected to the chimney, there should be a "pocket" in the chimney with a depth of at least 25 cm with a hatch for cleaning. To ensure optimal working vacuum in the chimney, we recommend that the chimney height is at least 5 meters.
The connection of the AOGV-11.6 boiler to the chimney must be carried out with pipes made of roofing steel. The diameter of the pipes must be at least the diameter of the traction breaker of the apparatus. The pipes must slide tightly into one another without gaps along the course of the combustion products by at least 0.5 of the pipe diameter.
The vertical section of the chimney located directly above the traction breaker must be as long as possible, but not less than 0.5 m.
Laying connecting pipes through living rooms is prohibited. Long horizontal sections of the flue pipe should be avoided if possible.
The total length of horizontal sections of connecting pipes should be no more than 3 m. (B existing houses a length of no more than 6 m is allowed).
The slope of the pipe towards the gas appliance must be at least 0.01. Radii of curvature should not be less than the pipe diameter.
The AOGV-11.6 gas boiler is installed near fireproof walls at a distance of at least 15 cm from the wall. If the device is installed near a fire-resistant wall, its surface must be insulated with a steel sheet over an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick, protruding 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the case.
There must be a 1 m wide passage in front of the unit.When the unit is installed on wooden floor, the floor should be insulated with a steel sheet over a 5 mm thick asbestos sheet. The insulation should protrude 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the case.
To improve the conditions for the circulation of water in the heating system, it is preferable to install the boiler as low as possible the level of heating devices (radiators). The expansion tank is located at the highest point of the system. The heating system must be top-wired.
The surface of the heating devices is determined by calculation. In order to avoid obtaining a high hydraulic resistance of the system, it is not recommended to underestimate the diameters of the pipelines.
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OPERATION AND REPAIR OF BOILERSProterm Panther
