When building or repairing, it is often necessary to perform work at height. With the help of a ladder, it will be inconvenient to produce them. For these purposes, you can assemble scaffolding with your own hands. Exist different variants designs, which are selected based on the nature and complexity of the work. Which is better to choose the type of product, how to assemble it or make it yourself, you can read in this article.
Scaffolding is widely used in the repair and construction. It is an indispensable attribute when performing internal and external finishing works at a certain height. The size and design of scaffolding depends on the nature and complexity of the installation. The main purpose of this building element is to create comfortable and safe conditions for the performance of work. This increases the efficiency of work, as well as saving time and effort.
Regardless of the type of construction, scaffolding must be reliable and durable, taking into account the location of people, materials and tools on them. The product should be placed on a prepared hard and level ground. The structure should be at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the wall for outdoor work and not exceed 100 mm for indoor.
Useful advice! In the case of using the structure for a long time, it is necessary to provide ditches for draining rainwater from the site so that the soil from under the device legs is not washed out.
Scaffolding consist of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts, giving the structure spatial strength;
- jumpers for flooring;
- stops designed to ensure the stability of the structure and prevent its fall;
- flooring from boards where a person will stand;
- enclosing element to protect the worker from falling down;
- stepladders or ladders to climb to the required level.
The width of the flooring should be at least 1.5 m. The height between the tiers should be at least 1.8 m. Slots no more than 10 mm wide are allowed between the boards and boards. If a continuous flooring is created, the boards can be overlapped along the length, having previously beveled the ends of the elements.
Useful advice! When performing outdoor repair and construction work, it is recommended to use a facade mesh for scaffolding, which will prevent workers, materials and tools from falling. It will also protect the finish from the sun, dust, gusts of wind and precipitation.
Depending on the composition of the functional elements and the variant of their fastening, all scaffolding is divided into four types: wedge, clamp, frame and pin. The structures are attached, rack and collapsible. The exception is scaffolding, where frames are used instead of vertical racks. There are also hanging devices that can not only be installed on the ground, but also attached to the building. These include clamp, cup and wedge scaffolding.
What material are scaffolding made of: product photos
Scaffolding - photos clearly display different options - can be wooden, galvanized, steel and aluminum. The latter option is the lightest and most mobile, it is advisable to use it for indoor or outdoor work at low heights. The strongest and most durable are steel structures that are easily repaired, which cannot be said about aluminum scaffolding. Galvanized products are also durable. Their main advantage is resistance to corrosion, so it is best option for outdoor work where they can stand long time under adverse weather conditions.
The price of scaffolding made of steel and galvanized will be much higher than that of analogues made of other materials. In addition, such structures are the heaviest, which complicates their transportation. However, such forests are able to withstand not only people, but also necessary tools and materials. Therefore, steel and galvanized structures are most often used for large-scale construction and installation works.
Today, metal structures from the Dmitrovsky Scaffolding Plant are very popular. Products are characterized by high strength, reliability, durability and reasonable cost.
In addition to metal scaffolding, wooden products are often used, which are simple and economical in execution. They can be easily made independently from improvised materials. However, this design is more cumbersome. Despite the fact that it is collapsible, like other analogues, the boards, due to the fact that they will be soiled and damaged by nails, can hardly be used for other activities. Such a product is designed to perform work at a maximum level of the second floor.
Frame collapsible scaffolding: product price
Frame-type scaffolding is the cheapest and easiest to operate option. The structure includes prefabricated elements made of welded hollow pipes in the form of vertical frames, supports, horizontal and diagonal ties. Due to the fact that a lot of metal is not spent on the manufacture of elements, the design is characterized by light weight, quick assembly and disassembly.
The assembly of frame scaffolding is carried out using flag mounts or clamps. Such structures are used for interior decoration premises, as well as during external plastering and painting works of buildings with a simple facade. Due to the low weight, the scaffolding can be easily changed sectional, as well as moved to another location.
You can buy scaffolding of one of the types: LRSP-30, LRSP-40, LRSP-60 and LRSP-100, where the numerical value indicates the maximum height of the installation. However, the designs differ not only in dimensions, but also in the diameter of the pipes and the wall thickness of the constituent elements. The first two types are produced with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm, and the other two - 48 and 3 mm, respectively. The price of building frame scaffolding starts from 125 rubles/m².
Designs can be equipped with wheels, which makes it easy to move the unit on flat ground. The standard dimensions of the product are the following indicators: section height - 2 m, length - 2-3 m, passage width - 1 m. For one-time work, you can rent frame scaffolding, the price will be 55 rubles / m².
Installation of building frame scaffolding: sequence of actions
Shoes and wooden pads are installed on the prepared rammed flat ground. If necessary, screw supports can be positioned. Adjacent frames of the first tier are placed in the shoes, followed by their connection with diagonal and horizontal ties. With a step of three meters, the next two frames with connections are placed. The process is carried out until the frame lightweight scaffolding of the required length is created. Railing frames are mounted along the edges of the structure, followed by the installation of stairs.
Important! The supporting surfaces must be located strictly in a horizontal plane.
Next, they proceed to the installation of the second tier, which is also connected by ties, however, the diagonal elements are staggered relative to the previous row. Here you can use crossbars, on which wooden flooring is laid. To move people between tiers, inclined stairs are installed in the places reserved for hatches.
Frame scaffolding is attached to the wall in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 4 m using hooks with bushings or plugs with clamps or brackets attached to the racks of the scaffolding frames. The above actions are carried out until the required installation height is reached.
On the safety and working tier, there are longitudinal and end connections of the fences, which are mounted in the place where there are no diagonal braces. Scaffolding is installed on a plumb line. The dismantling of collapsible scaffolding is carried out in the reverse order, starting from the top row.
Mobile scaffolding on wheels
The most profitable option for quick repairs is the scaffolding of the tour, which is considered a type of frame installation. The design is characterized by strength and ease of assembly. The mobility of the installation is given by the wheels located at the base of the vertical supports. A significant advantage of the tower tour is the presence of a jack in the design of the device. The height of the product does not exceed 20 m. The load capacity of the unit is 300 kg/m².
The design is made mainly of aluminum, which makes it light and easy to move. Less commonly, you can find steel tours that have high strength and reliability, but are characterized by reduced mobility due to their large weight.
Tour towers are actively used in the installation of air conditioners, lighting, video surveillance, banners, billboards, cornices, wall and balcony decoration, repair of gutters and roofs. There are two types of construction: non-separable telescopic and collapsible. In the first version, a special mechanism is provided, thanks to which the tour is extended to the required height. This type is used indoors.
For exterior finishing or repair work collapsible towers are used, having more complex structure with supports and diagonal ties. Each subsequent section is built into the supports of the lower module on the bushings, resulting in an overall structure. With an installation height of 1.3 m, the structure is completed with railings and sides. Today you can rent a tower or buy scaffolding, the price of which is in the range of 150-200 rubles / m².
Mobile scaffolding on wheels should be used in cases where it is necessary to change the location of the installation frequently. Special brake screws are used to fix the structure in place.
Clamp scaffolding: design features
This type of scaffolding is the most time-consuming to assemble, since each connection of vertical supports with horizontal, diagonal and transverse ties is carried out using special clamps, which are twisted wrench. Fasteners can be deaf or rotary. Depending on this, the connection of the racks can be made at a right or any angle, respectively. Due to the fact that a large number of fasteners are required for the installation of the structure, clamp scaffolding is the most expensive.
Useful advice! When assembling the structure, you can combine the clamps, which will allow you to create the installation of the desired configuration.
Due to the presence of diagonal ties, the design is durable, reliable and stable. However, this is the most difficult option for scaffolding in installation and disassembly.
The main advantages of the design are the possibility of manufacturing an installation of any shape and the expediency of combining it with another version of the auxiliary rack metal structure. Such a structure is mounted around the perimeter of a building of any configuration, even in the presence of protruding elements. The device can be used for inclined structures.
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Manufacturers produce various options for clamp-type scaffolding, differing in maximum installation height, which can be from 30 to 80 m. The standard scaffolding width is 1-1.5 m, the tier pitch is 2-2.5 m. These parameters vary depending on building configuration. The maximum load on the structure is 150-250 kg/m. The unit can be bought or rented. The price of scaffolding starts from 250 rubles/m2. Rent will cost 80 rubles. per m2.
Useful advice! Clamp scaffolding is recommended for creating stages and stands.
Wedge construction mobile scaffolding
This design is created from functional elements using a special wedge fixation. Pipes with flanges are used as vertical components, pipes with holders are used as horizontal components. To make the installation mobile, it is recommended to equip it with special wheels. Such forests are characterized by strength and reliability. When installing the installation, it is possible to change the angle of direction of the connecting elements, due to which multi-level structures of various configurations are created.
Manufacturers produce wedge scaffolding in size: section height - 2 m, length - 2-3 m, passage width - 1-3 m. The structure can have a height of 60 and 100 m. are used during the construction of complex facilities in the case when heavy components and materials are lifted.
Useful advice! To ensure the safety of people who may be near the construction site, it is recommended to buy a scaffolding net designed to protect the facade of the building.
Scaffolding is easy to use, but requires laborious installation. The design is characterized by versatility, due to which it can be used not only in the construction of buildings, but also in the construction of stages, stands, canopies, flyovers. This is an indispensable unit in ship and aircraft construction. The cost of construction starts from 425 rubles / m². You can rent scaffolding for 85 rubles / m².
Collapsible metal scaffolding pin type
Such designs are very popular on construction sites due to easy and quick installation and disassembly of the installation. As a connection node in scaffolding, pins are used, which are located on bearing supports. They are joined with holes in the pipes of connecting elements. Installations are characterized by strength, reliability, rigidity, stability, wear resistance and durability. They can be used repeatedly, easily transported from place to place in disassembled form.
Due to the high load-bearing capacity, the structure can withstand a significant amount of heavy loads. building materials. Such scaffolding is used in areas with complex terrain and in the construction and installation works of structures with a curvilinear configuration. The disadvantages of the design include a large weight of the installation, which is associated with a significant amount of metal.
Today, the sale of pin-type scaffolding of the following varieties is carried out:
- LSh-50 - up to 50 m high, sectional height 2 m, length 1.5-3 m, passage width 1-2 m;
- LSPSH-2000-4 - 40 m high, passage width 1.6 m, section height 2 m, length 2.5 m;
- E-507 - 60 m high, passage width 1.6 m, length and height of sections 2 m.
You can buy a structure from 519 rubles / m². Also, some companies offer to rent the unit. The price of m² of scaffolding is 90 rubles/m².
DIY wooden scaffolding
If there is a desire to save money, and wood materials are at hand, then you can create the design yourself. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you should study the requirements for the product so that it is durable and reliable.
The distance between the vertical posts should not be more than 2.5 m. The height of the installation reaches 6 m. The width of the flooring can be any, but not less than 1 m. It is important that not only a person, but also the tools and materials necessary for work can fit on it .
For supports and racks, wooden bars with a section of 100x100 mm and boards - 50x100 mm should be used. The thickness of products for spacers should not be less than 30 mm, and for flooring - 50 mm. For stiffeners, you will need products with a thickness of 25 mm. Thin boards can be used as enclosing elements. For creating robust design it is necessary to use only construction nails. Self-tapping screws are not able to create a reliable connection.
Useful advice! When installing wooden scaffolding, you should take care of their convenient disassembly. To do this, it is not recommended to hammer nails completely, and you can also use a wooden gasket between the structure element and the hat.
After the complete set of installation is prepared, proceed to its assembly. Work begins with large functional elements. Two beams are laid on a horizontal surface at a distance of the length of the structure so that the tops of the elements converge slightly, which will add stability to the installation. For example, if the distance between the lower ends is 3 m, then between the upper ends there should be no more than 2.6 m. inside supports are attached to the sidewalls, which are the basis for the decking. A similar operation is done with the other two bars.
Useful advice! Lateral transverse elements must have different lengths in order to obtain a pyramidal structure as a result.
The sidewalls are arranged vertically and lean towards each other for stability. The position is fixed with long transverse nails. To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall of the structure, it is recommended that the crossbars be made with an allowance of 20-30 cm.
Racks are installed at a distance of 2-2.5 m, which depends on the thickness of the boards that are used for flooring. The elements are fastened together with the help of slopes, thanks to which the structure does not fold to the side. The more jibs and crossbars, the stronger and more reliable do-it-yourself scaffolding is made. If the height of the structure is more than 3 m, it must be additionally fixed so that it does not fall forward. For this, jibs are installed, which, on the one hand, are nailed to the beams, and on the other, they are buried in the ground.
The final stage is the installation of the flooring to the transverse bars. It is also possible to additionally install barriers above each platform in order to increase safety. If you add transverse bars to the side elements, a staircase is formed. To give the structure stability, the ends of the supports should be sharpened and buried in the ground.
Attached scaffolds and construction goats
Attached scaffolds are used for simple finishing work, where lightweight materials are used. wooden structures lean against the surface of the wall of the building and are held by the stop. Despite the fact that the installation looks unreliable, it is convenient and safe to work on it. There are two versions of side scaffolding: traditional and Armenian. The first installation is simple and reliable, however it is not adjustable in height. It can be used for filing a roof overhang, installing a drain and other works that are characterized by a small variation in height.
Armenian forests are made from a minimum amount of materials, they are easily and quickly assembled, moved and disassembled. The main thing is to make triangles, raise them to a given height, place them in 3 m increments and support them with inclined beams that are fixed in the ground.
At outdoor decoration one-story buildings and for work on the gables, building goats are used, where the flooring is laid on wooden beams. Installations are also used in cases where it is impossible to rely on anything on the walls. The design is not bulky and light, it can be moved to the right place.
The construction goat is a four-legged wooden structure resembling the letter “A” in shape, the height of which reaches the height of the master. The number of spacers can be arbitrary. Conventional canopies are used to connect the upper ends of the supports. Legs are secured with stoppers. On one side, the rack can be made vertically, without tilt. This will allow you to install the structure closer to the wall, which is convenient for painting, caulking or preventive treatment.
Thanks to the many options for scaffolding, it is possible to select the design necessary for the performance of specific works. When choosing a product, it is important to take into account not only its cost, but also the features of the area, the surface to be treated, the timing of the work. Based on this information, it is easy to choose your own type of construction for each case.
During the construction or maintenance of a private house, you have to perform work at height. Not all work can be done with a ladder or ladder. In such cases it is necessary to use scaffolding.
Scaffolding can be made from various materials. The most common are metal and wooden scaffolding.
Metal scaffolding has great advantages. They are distinguished by their stability, safety and durability. But the cost of this design is quite considerable. And the difficulties in assembling and the large dimensions of the structure are not the most acceptable option.
alternative metal scaffolding are wooden, which are easy to assemble and their cost is several times less. Another advantage of wood scaffolding is that almost every one of the materials at hand can assemble them, while using only available tools. Wooden scaffolding can be moved independently to any distance and stored unassembled for a long time. Due to the many advantages, many people choose wooden scaffolding for construction and installation work.
Making wooden scaffolding is not difficult. It is enough to choose high-quality and durable wood right size. Since the construction of the scaffolding is temporary, it can be made from wood and boards, which are “not standard”.
The process of making scaffolding
1. The first step is to make a base. To do this, we take two beams and fix them together with the help of auxiliary boards. We fix the boards with self-tapping screws.2. We cut the upper part of the timber at an angle. The bevel on the beam is necessary for the further fastening of the remaining structural parts.
3. The finished part of the base looks like:
4. Next, we attach a board 1 m long to the cut point.
5. Consistently fasten three more parts of the manufactured bars to the upper bar. Due to the presence of bevels on the bars, the design acquires a stable shape.
6. In order for the scaffolding structure to be more reliable and durable, it is necessary to strengthen it with the help of auxiliary slats. We fix the slats in the upper and middle parts of the structure. We perform this work on both sides of the stand.
7. Additionally, we fix the stand at the base from several sides.
8. The finished part of the scaffolding looks like:
9. It is also possible to strengthen the design of the stand in the central part, while placing the mounting boards diagonally.
10. To perform work, a wooden flooring is laid out on stands, which will serve as a place of movement.
11. Scaffold stands can be made as many as necessary to perform safe work. Stands are easy to carry from place to place, while not disassembling them. In addition, a similar design can be used on various terrain and when performing work of any complexity.
12. The height of the wooden scaffolding can be adjusted by increasing the height of the wooden deck.
Hello dear Semenych! I have been building the house for 3 years, finally it came to siding. There was a problem in the scaffolding. Question: What is the more rational, profitable way to act? Rent scaffolding? Chop - how exactly?
Eugene, Gorno-Altaisk.
Hello, Eugene from Gorno-Altaisk!
Judging by the image of the photo and the inscription, you belong to the category of those who delved into my giblets three times. In order not to please your colleagues to do the same with you, take scaffolding seriously.
When installing siding on the walls and gables of houses, we use both scaffolding and just stairs with our construction teams (changing almost annually, including due to natural attrition).
Ladders are preferably aluminum folding and retractable, allowing their use at heights from the beginning of the second floor and up to 18 meters. At least, I have not seen a longer length on sale. The presence of a crossbar at the upper end of such stairs is enough to not push through the siding when they rest on it. True, traces of metal on light siding remain and then they have to be washed off with solvents and shampoos.
Wooden stairs with their lengths of more than 6 meters are heavy, you are tormented to move, and even when they are leaning on the mounted siding, and this happens, they can push through it.
In any case, if it is necessary to install siding at a height of more than 6 - 7 meters, wooden stairs are usually not used. Yes, and aluminum ladders do not contribute to productive work, since you often have to go down to the sinful earth for the required material. Even if there are assistants on it, feeding sheets of siding.
When it is not possible to have your own scaffolding (there is nowhere to store it, or they were stolen by bad people right from the facility under construction), then you have to borrow them from colleagues for a while or rent them from organizations that do business on this.
In our area, one day of renting the minimum amount of scaffolding, sufficient for a more or less tolerable installation of siding, costs from 800 to 1000 rubles per day.
The most popular scaffolding is the old Soviet production from steel pipes a couple of meters long (transverse), 3 - 4 meters (racks) and a diameter of about 60 millimeters. Advantage - in their reliability and durability. The downside is the heaviness.
Now steel ones are more in use, but already with a diameter of about 40 millimeters and somewhat less often - aluminum counterparts. Various lengths and ways of fastening. Advantage - light, quickly mounted. The disadvantage is less reliability than Soviet-made ones.
Even rarer are aluminum scaffolds with two ten-meter rack sets and a six-meter platform (half a meter wide) that is raised with a hand winch. You sit on such a platform, turn the handle and, like Baron Munchausen, you lift yourself up.
About five years ago, with the help of such forests, installation work in one research institute.
Crowds of designers with undisguised interest looked at original design. However, such forests are unlikely to be able to rent.
With sufficient experience in the installation of siding, and it is acquired in the process, two or three people sheathe a one-story house with dimensions of 6/6 meters and with attic gables in 2 - 3, maximum 4 days.
It is best to work with three people, when two people mount all the elements of the siding, and one person cuts the plastic to size with a grinder and feeds it.
To optimize labor costs in terms of time and in the absence of scaffolding, we use ladders, supplementing them with construction gantry scaffolds. We fasten them well to the ground, put the stairs on them with an emphasis on stuffed bars. For insurance, we screw them with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver (a great thing! I recommend). Or attach with wire / rope /.
We knock together goats from 1 to 2 meters high, no more, otherwise the whole town will tremble.
Sometimes we act as follows - we mount siding from stairs to the entire possible permissible height (and goats / emphasis on the first syllable! Or else you think ... /). And only then we rent scaffolding. Then their payment is made for a shorter period.
But more often we take scaffolding from familiar colleagues, today they give us, and tomorrow we help them with something.
One of my acquaintances, though unlike you, is a neurosurgeon who does not take bribes or greyhounds, and when the need arose, his grateful patients simply got him scaffolding for a while. And OBEP will not find fault.
To hammer together scaffolding purely for the installation of siding, in my opinion, is not rational. Especially if you put them on the entire length of the wall of the house (that is, at least 6 meters). You will kill a lot of time, and you need a lot of material. Well, if then this material can be used elsewhere. And because of the bulkiness, it is difficult to carry scaffolding around the house around the perimeter. Less, but rather more is needed, as four peasants are indispensable. Will have to be partially dismantled.
Although the taste and color ... No later than today, I saw a neighbor in the garden, who alone fenced off something similar from 6 meter boards. True, he builds his house exactly twice as long as you, and there is no end in sight. One is building.
In any case, if you decide this, then thoroughly fasten the lower ends of the rack boards. And attach their top with wire to the walls or roof of the house. Not forgetting that fasteners in addition will interfere with the installation of siding when you get to this fastener.
Wooden scaffolding of this type is made from vertical 6-meter racks. You are unlikely to get a longer length - not a standard. Racks are a cut board with a section of at least 40/100 millimeters.
On the ground, at a distance of about a meter from each other, such boards are laid, fastened together with transverse bars-boards of the same section. They are overlapped, fastened with three or four "hundred" nails (or the mentioned self-tapping screws).
The crossbars are located from each other at an approximate distance of one and a half meters and everything is parallel to each other. At least three such sets are made.
Then install one such set vertically, next to the wall that you will sheathe with siding. The rack should not lean against the wall, but should be about 15 centimeters away from it. In order not to interfere with manipulations with the siding.
Place pieces of edged board under the racks so that they do not sag into the ground. If the ground surface is not level, then adjust the installation of the racks with an additional lining of such boards.
After one set is installed, it is temporarily fixed in a strictly vertical position. Then, at a distance of about one and a half - 2 meters, they put the second such set. With all the bells and whistles like the first one. Between these sets, boards are stuffed vertically, slightly diagonally. On one side and the other in opposite directions. This will prevent the kits from collapsing and collapsing.
Diagonal boards from 4 to 6 meters long.
After two sets are already standing, they make a third, install in the same way.
Then put on the crossbars edged boards, usually "30" or "40" (these bend less), on which you will walk. Their length in our scenario is about 4 meters, or half a meter longer. For insurance, you can temporarily screw them to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. With the possibility of quick dismantling.
You don’t need a lot of such boards, because as you move to work higher, they are also shifted higher to the next crossbars.
It is better to climb these temporary sites using a ladder, which is placed on the side. It is not rational to fence scaffolding above 6 meters, since measured standard boards are of exactly this length and building them up without additional strengthening is a tricky business.
When you get to the height of 8 meters (6 meters of forest plus your height), then this will be your roof fad.
During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often needed - it is not necessary to carry out drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.
Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repair
Scaffolding is widely used in construction and repair. Even the usual do-it-yourself wall plastering it is not easy to carry out without them, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes completely daunting task without auxiliary support structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily put together goat-stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.
But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement along the facade or the wall being repaired of everything you need. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs - the main benefit from scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so their cost can be entered in the column "payment for the speed and convenience of repair."
Any design of scaffolding must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and Supplies. If there is even the slightest doubt that scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a finished, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such products is quite diverse.
Scaffolding classification
The term "forests" itself is associated with the historical experience of finishing facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter "shelves" were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to posterity only its name and the principle of construction.
Modern options are based on a frame and are made taking into account reusable use. Structurally, scaffolding can be performed in the following options:
- Pin scaffolding - made of steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. Heavy and clumsy, it takes a lot of time to assemble and move - but very strong. For example, stone or brickwork is best done from them. A large amount of heavy building materials can be loaded onto pin scaffolding, they are very stable and durable;
- Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and / or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a solid frame. They may have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plaster or balcony siding- when the weight of building materials is small, and the work is associated with fast moving along (up and down) the object being repaired;
- Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. Withstand heavy loads and are mobile at the same time. Fastener nodes are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
- Clamp scaffolding - universal structures of small carrying capacity for the repair and restoration of curved facades;
- Suspended - the well-known "cradles", with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. Between two stationary scaffolding, a structure without ground support can also be suspended.
Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only purchased, their independent "production" is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with their own hands with the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.
Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step by step instructions
Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material- the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are quite doable on their own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and battens.
How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step by step diagram
Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood
To work, you will need several types of wood. Bearing supports are made of timber 10x10 cm in size (a smaller section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from scaffolding). Horizontal floorings are knocked together from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffeners - from boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Fencing rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms should be free of knots and cracks, it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.
Step 2: Frame planning
The end sides of the wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not interfere with the repair of walls.
In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports from a 10x10 cm beam that are solid, and not composite - then the strength of the multi-storey structure will be higher. The minimum allowable width of homemade wood scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise the risk of overturning the scaffolding during operation is high. For work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a planer, a drill and a screwdriver.
Step 3: Building the frame
Two beams with a height of not more than 6 meters are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two fit right next to each other. The upper part of the bars should slightly converge upwards for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding at the bottom convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then from above it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapeziums.
Sidewalls from a bar are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted from the inside. In general, self-made wooden scaffolding can have no more than three "mounting floors", so there will be only four sidewalls from a bar. Three correspond to the levels of the forests, and the lower one serves for strength, it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.
Step 4: Making a three-dimensional frame
To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (and preferably two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the docking accuracy will certainly suffer. Side crossbars are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable forests should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required angle of convergence is small, otherwise an uncomfortable gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be enough.
Having installed the wooden sidewalls vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side crossbars with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work, the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and folded in a barn or garage.
Step 5: Final and optional
It remains to nail boards for flooring and a fence above each platform to the transverse bars. On the sides of the scaffolding, additional crossbars can be filled, which will act as stairs. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching scaffolding to earthen soil - it is removed on flat surfaces, and the whole structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.
All high-altitude work is characterized by increased complexity, and in this case it is definitely impossible to do without special devices. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles / m², and even in relation to the cheapest set (frame) is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Rent can also be expensive (from 55) if the repair or construction drags on for a long time, which usually happens in practice.
Plus - some problems with the transportation of forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field of low-rise buildings (for the private sector), the best solution is to make them yourself.
There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent metal and wood scaffolding than to assemble it yourself. The main argument is that buying pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of what it is like to maintain their home in proper condition (both the front part and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the typical one). But the owner has to do this regularly.
Moreover, the combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and boards (flooring at each level) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure is easily disassembled after construction (repair) is completed, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant disadvantage - the limitation in carrying capacity.
That is, on such a device, only such work as facade design (painting, siding), ceiling treatment, plastering and a number of others can be carried out. When erecting brickwork or simultaneous stay at the height of several people, wooden scaffolding is unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.
The only difficulty is in right choice options for scaffolding and a method of fastening all structural elements. The cost of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolds is justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a barn (on site or elsewhere) until the next use. But spending money on a non-separable model, welded, is irrational, and it is unlikely that anyone will do this. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.
Brief description of the types of scaffolding
Clamp. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. Minus - the complexity of the installation / dismantling of the structure. In addition, if necessary, to increase the bearing capacity, you will have to buy fasteners. Only one wire, especially a rope, in this case is not enough.
Wedge. Differ from all similar models in application in the increased reliability and durability. But the manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (primarily for holders). For the private sector - not the best option.
Pin. Plus - low weight with the ability to withstand a significant load; ease of assembly (albeit relative). Minus - high cost; increased pressure on the soil. A number of additional measures need to be taken to ensure sustainability. As a rule, such forests are not used in the private sector. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. Here you need accurate calculations and a welding machine.
Frame. Plus - the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing up and assembly, such scaffolding is able to "carry" a load of up to 200 kg / m². The height restriction of 50 m for a private building does not matter much. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.
What you need
It is pointless to designate the exact linear values of structural elements - they simply cannot be. The dimensions of scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work being carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of craftsmen who are simultaneously at the height, and a number of other parameters.
All numerical values are in mm.
By material:
- Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is suitable only for low structures used for finishing work. When erecting masonry, they will not work because of the low bearing capacity.
- Steel. Such scaffolding for the private sector is versatile in use. The explanation is quite understandable - the high strength and reliability of the frame.
By section:
- Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
- Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). The pipe is round at 15.
- Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.
To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding flooring - not lower than "magpie".
- Length - from 1600 to 2000.
- Width - within 1000.
- Height - 1550.
Those home craftsmen who are not satisfied with the given dimensions for some reason can take the following drawings as a basis.
Fasteners
- Bolts + nuts + washers + Grover - for fastening metal elements.
- Self-tapping screws (for metal) - for fixing the boards at the place of laying.
The main stages of manufacture
Preparing details. Pipes are cut first. Even if a drawing has been drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the skeleton of scaffolding, their dimensions will still have to be specified. This will save you from unnecessary work if you need to fit pre-prepared flooring elements in place. The ends of round pipes (about 80) are flattened so that you can then drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such a “pressing”, it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.
- Preparation of "horizontals". Before using them in the assembly of the frame, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe in the places indicated on the drawing.
- Preparation of "verticals". To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded at one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
- Drilling holes in structural elements. Particular attention - vertical and horizontal (racks, jumpers). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will have to be definitely changed, and this is an irrational waste of materials.
- Display racks. The main thing at this stage is to maintain their compliance with the vertical plane. The slightest distortion will significantly complicate the further assembly of scaffolding and drastically reduce their bearing capacity. Yes, and the convenience of working on them is unlikely to add. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
- Structural reinforcement. Diagonal spacers are used for this. The peculiarity of their fastening is in symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
- Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For effective work (in relation to the private sector), one removable ladder is enough. It is small in size, easy to remove and install in another place if necessary. The material is the same - a pipe.
- Arrangement of scaffolding flooring. The boards are laid last, after the final adjustment to size. They are attached to the welded inserts with self-tapping screws.
To ensure maximum stability of scaffolding, it is necessary:
- prepare "shoes" with which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It is easy to make them from boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces and different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of forests relative to the ground;
- to process the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that during operation there will be no shrinkage of the soil (under load) and distortion of the scaffolding.
- Most often, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) will do, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the racks. U-shaped metal earrings can be used to fix the sections. In order for the fastening to be as reliable as possible, a pipe should also be taken for them, but with a slightly smaller section (25 x 25) or diameter.
If you carefully understand the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in assembling scaffolding. The main thing is the correct calculation and accuracy.
