Proper noise isolation in a panel house. How to make soundproofing in the apartment from the neighbors? It is worth mentioning the improvised soundproofing

Depends on the kind of noise you want to eliminate. All noise penetrating into the apartment can be divided into 2 types: vibration (shock) and acoustic (air). Vibration noise is sound vibrations that propagate in a solid medium. Many people know from their own experience how good it can be to hear when upstairs neighbors throw heavy objects on the floor, jump rope, stomp or rearrange furniture. And if someone in the entrance wields a jackhammer or a puncher, the strongest roar is in all the apartments of a multi-storey building. That's all there is shock noise.

The noise level of about 40 decibels will not allow you to have a good rest, and the noise level of more than 85 decibels can lead to mental disorders.

The acoustic form of noise is associated with the propagation of sound vibrations through the air. This type of noise includes loud music and voices in a neighboring apartment or room, the rumble of passing cars, etc. Acoustic noise sources are uneven joints between panels, walls that are too thin, through holes for sockets, etc.

The only thing that can help eliminate noise in a multi-storey building is soundproofing, which must be carried out comprehensively. Soundproofing is the finishing of walls, ceilings and floors with sound-absorbing materials. In addition, for comprehensive soundproofing, it is necessary that doors and windows absorb noise as much as possible. You can achieve the highest degree of sound insulation if you take care of it even at the stage of building construction, since the degree of noise absorption depends on the thickness and type of material from which the walls of the house and its internal floors are made.

Comprehensive soundproofing in the apartment

Qualitatively made joints of floors and thick concrete walls provide adequate noise protection. But, unfortunately, when designing / building standard panel houses, the sound insulation factor is not taken into account. To provide comprehensive noise protection, first of all, it is necessary to soundproof the ceiling, floor and walls using sound-absorbing materials that can be bought from companies selling building materials.

In addition, you need to pay attention to the following sources of noise penetration:
- mounting boxes and sockets;
- water supply risers and;
- joints between ceiling, walls and floor;
- Entrance doors and windows.

Soundproofing the walls in the apartment

In panel houses, partitions and walls often have a small thickness, and therefore they do not absorb sounds well. To ensure soundproofing of the walls, their thickness is usually increased with the help of drywall. The space between it and the wall is filled with a porous material: foam rubber or mineral wool, which prevents the propagation of acoustic vibrations.

The more layers of sound-absorbing materials used, the higher the efficiency of the soundproofing structure.

First, a frame is mounted from steel profiles. To eliminate the transmission of vibrations from the floor and walls, in the places where the profiles are attached, it is necessary to make gaskets from an elastic substance - for example, rubber. When the frame is prepared, a sound-absorbing material is glued to the wall, completely covering its surface. The thicker the layer of this material, the more effective the sound insulation will become. After that, drywall sheets are screwed to the frame.

Soundproofing the ceiling and floor in the apartment

Soundproofing the ceiling is very important, since most often the inconvenience is associated precisely with the noise that the neighbors from above produce. The soundproofing of the ceiling is carried out according to the same principle as the soundproofing of the walls. First, a frame is assembled from the profiles, and one should not forget about rubber gaskets at the points of its attachment.

After that, all its internal space is filled with some kind of sound-absorbing substance: glass mat, foam rubber or special sound-proof slabs of basalt or mineral wool. Such plates, with their small thickness, have an excellent absorbing effect. After installing them, the ceiling height in your apartment will decrease quite a bit.

If there is no intermediate layer between the floor covering and the ceiling, the noise from the apartment below will constantly penetrate into your apartment. At the same time, your neighbors will be able to hear everything that is happening in your house, down to the sound of moving chairs and even footsteps. The issue of soundproofing the floor is solved with the help of a special sound-absorbing material that has a small thickness.

This material consists of special paper, fiberglass, foamed polymer or other synthetic material. During the repair process, depending on the type of sound-absorbing layer material, such material can be placed either directly under the screed or under the laminate. This type of sound insulation perfectly dampens vibrations, and also absorbs shock. When laying the soundproofing layer, a waterproofing film is placed on top of it.

Noise isolation of mounting boxes and sockets

The reinforced concrete slabs of panel houses have through holes for the installation of electrical equipment. In such cases, sockets become a conductor of noise between neighboring apartments. To ensure the soundproofing of the socket, it must first be de-energized. Having disassembled the socket, it must be pulled out, and then a washer (gasket) made of dense sound-absorbing material - pressed mineral wool, asbestos cloth or thick cardboard - should be placed in the hole. After that, it should be carefully cemented using a gypsum mixture.

Working with sockets requires skills in working with electricity, and therefore it is better to entrust it to professionals.

Mounting boxes are usually located under the ceiling in the middle of the wall. In some cases, they can be hidden under the wallpaper. The sound insulation of boxes is made on the same principle as the insulation of sockets. You need to get a plastic plug, then install and cement a washer made of soundproofing material. Before carrying out these works, it is imperative to make sure that there is no voltage in the network.

Soundproofing of central heating risers

In accordance with building codes, risers are laid through the ceilings between floors using special sleeves that prevent the spread of noise. The sleeve is a fragment of a pipe of a larger diameter, built into the ceiling. The gap between the pipe and the sleeve must be filled with mineral wool or other sound-absorbing material.

However, it is not uncommon for builders to cement risers without using a sleeve. Over time, the cement breaks down, while the gap between the wall and the pipe increases, and the sound from the apartment from above penetrates through the cracks. To ensure soundproofing of the riser, it is necessary to remove concrete around the pipe to a depth of less than 10 cm. The freed pipe should be wrapped with mineral wool or fiberglass, and then cemented again. The resulting excess sound-absorbing material is cut off, and the place near the pipe is puttied.

Sound insulation of joints, windows and doors

During the operation of panel buildings, cracks often appear between the floor and walls, as well as along the joints, through which noise can penetrate from neighboring apartments. The causes of these cracks can be different deformation of the building, as well as panels that are poorly fitted to each other. To ensure sound insulation of the joints, it is necessary to expand the cracks with a screwdriver or chisel, carefully clean them, prime them, cover them with putty. When the latter dries, the joint surface must be coated with acrylic sealant.

To fill the gap between the floor and the wall, fill it with silicone sealant, then glue it with special tape and install the baseboard in place.

Doors and windows should protect the apartment from noise from the entrance or from the street. To soundproof windows, it is best to install special soundproof double-glazed windows. They use triple glazing technology to minimize noise penetration into the apartment. The gap between the wall and the double-glazed window is carefully sealed.

The more massive and thicker the door, the less sounds it will let into the apartment. Additionally, the doorway is sealed around the entire perimeter with special rubber gaskets. In this case, a threshold is necessarily made, and the space between the opening and the door frame is sealed with cement mortar. The door should fit tightly enough to the frame.

To effectively increase sound insulation in an apartment, remember that the best result is possible with an integrated approach. In this case, it is necessary to use only high-quality and proven materials. When a good level of sound insulation is provided in the apartment, then life becomes much more pleasant: an alarm system in the yard and noisy neighbors are no longer a problem!

Every person, regardless of the type of their activity, needs regular rest. For many people, the main place of rest is the apartment, which, unfortunately, is not always able to provide a suitable level of comfort for this. The reason is simple - in most apartments, the isolation of extraneous sounds is at such a level that there can be no talk of any rest. Repair, a party or a crying child - the sounds are heard so clearly, as if they are heard not from the neighbors, but in your own apartment. In such situations, additional sound insulation of the apartment, especially the ceiling and walls, usually saves.

Soundproofing in an apartment should be carried out comprehensively, if you ignore at least one small plot, extraneous sounds can easily penetrate through it into your home.

Where to begin

Any serious work always begins with careful planning. First you need to decide on the available budget, which you are ready to allocate for soundproofing measures. After that, you need to decide what exactly you will work on: over the entire room or its separate elements(e.g. ceiling and walls).

Floor soundproofing

It is best to start soundproofing a room from the floor. First, try to find all the holes and cracks that should be carefully caulked. It is not difficult to find them - they are usually located at the joints of the plates. Fill the gaps with a soft soundproof material (for example, mineral wool).

This is followed by the installation of beam logs on the floor, the cells of which correspond to the size of mineral wool slabs. Under the logs, a gasket made of technical cork is laid, and in the resulting mesh - mineral wool slabs with a thickness of about 45-50 mm.

floor soundproofing scheme

Then, chipboard plates are laid on the created coating and screwed to the logs with self-tapping screws. This is followed by either laying carpet or pouring concrete screed(do not forget about the impregnation of the bars with special protective compounds). On this, the process of soundproofing the floor can be considered almost complete. The gap between the walls and joists is carefully filled with mineral wool and should not be more than 20 mm, otherwise extraneous sounds can enter your home through these holes.

Soundproofing the walls in the apartment

The process of soundproofing walls is somewhat similar to soundproofing floors, but there are still some differences. First of all, you need to get rid of all the defects and irregularities that are present on the work surface. In addition, sockets, slots, gaps between pipes and ceilings need to be carefully insulated. To work with pipes, you can use an elastic sealant.

Scheme of soundproofing walls using drywall and using the Knauf vibration profile

After completing this stage, you can proceed to the main work. To begin with, a frame made of wooden or metal profiles is mounted on the walls, to which drywall slabs will be attached in the future. Mineral wool is laid between the drywall and the main surface, and a thin layer of soundproofing material is laid under the profiles.

Soundproofing the ceiling in the apartment

High-quality soundproofing of an apartment is not complete without work on the ceiling. Many people believe that in such cases it is best to use a false ceiling, but in reality, a greater result will give tensile structure. At the same time, fiberglass or mineral wool plates should be attached to the main ceiling, which will further enhance the effect. By itself, the stretch ceiling is capable of absorbing up to 38 dB.

Ceiling soundproofing scheme

Naturally, in addition to mineral wool, you can use any other sound-absorbing materials, which today are of great variety.

Isoplat. A material produced in the form of slabs from the fibers of coniferous trees. No adhesives or chemical additives are used in its manufacture.
Izolon. It is a foamed cross-linked polyethylene, that is, the molecules form a single lattice. As a rule, it is produced in the form of rolls, which are used as a substrate for wallpaper.
Isotex (softboard). The basis of this material are plates of soft fiberboard. It belongs to the category of environmentally friendly materials, since only components of natural origin are used in its manufacture. Perfectly absorbs any noise, which allows it to become an excellent material for almost all soundproofing work.
Ecowool. The composition of this sound insulator includes about 80% cellulose (waste paper and special additives that improve the quality of the material). Ecowool is not afraid of exposure to rodents and fungi, so it is ideal for insulating walls and ceilings.
Penotherm. In the manufacture of this material, foamed polypropylene is used, the quality of which is improved through the use of special additives. It has excellent impact sound insulation properties, making it ideal for soundproofing floors.

The main mistakes in soundproofing an apartment

Unfortunately, no one is immune from mistakes, and during soundproofing work, people can sometimes make very annoying mistakes that nullify all efforts.

Electrical sockets

One of the most likely sources of noise from neighbors entering your apartment may be an ordinary socket, the installation of which fell on the inter-apartment wall. The reason is that some reinforced concrete wall slabs, even at the time of production, provided for the presence of through holes where electrical fittings would be installed.

In such cases, builders simply need to install sockets in two adjacent apartments, while leaving a through channel, which will be the source of extraneous noise penetration.

Here it is recommended to dismantle the electrical outlet and the mounting box (of course, observing all safety rules). It is likely that in the process of work you will see the bottom of the mounting box of another outlet. A layer of mineral wool, basalt cardboard or asbestos fabric must be laid in the hole. After that, the hole is carefully sealed with cement mortar or gypsum putty (do not forget to leave room for the subsequent installation of your electrical outlet). When carrying out these works, it is advisable to resort to the help of a professional electrician.

Remember that it is highly not recommended to use mounting foam to seal the hole without further plastering, since this combustible material is not a sound insulator.

Mounting electrical boxes

Mounting boxes, which are designed to connect electrical cables, are in most cases located in the central part of the inter-apartment walls under the ceiling. Usually they are hidden under the wallpaper, so you can find them only by "tapping". In addition, mounting boxes are often placed in through holes in the walls, covered with thin plastic covers.

Soundproofing mounting boxes carried out according to the same technology as electrical outlets. At the same time, the help of an electrician in this case will already be a prerequisite, since it is highly not recommended to carry out these works on your own.

Heating and water supply risers

In accordance with building codes, the risers of water supply pipelines should be laid through using vibration-isolated sleeves. To do this, it is necessary to install in the ceiling metal pipe, the diameter of which is greater than that of the riser. The gap between the pipes is filled with non-combustible sound-absorbing material, additionally sealing with a non-hardening sealant.

But in reality, these works are sometimes not carried out - they simply forget about the use of mineral wool or sleeves. As a result, after several years of operation, gaps form between the floor slab and the riser pipe, which are sources of not only extraneous noise, but also unpleasant odors.

To solve this problem, two methods can be used. In the event that the riser passes through the coating in the sleeve, then you need to carefully seal the gap between the riser and the sleeve using a heat-resistant silicone sealant. If the riser passes directly through the ceiling, then next to the pipe it is necessary to thoroughly clean and remove the damaged layer of cement mortar to the maximum depth, preventing it from entering someone else's apartment.

After that, the base of the pipe is wrapped with soundproofing material and the damaged area is cemented. Excess sound insulator is removed, after which the joint is sealed with silicone sealant.

Joints between floors and walls

In those areas where the floor slab is adjacent to the walls, the formation of deep cracks, as a rule, is not uncommon. The main reason is poor-quality joints and low-quality leveling floor screed. Cracks that appear after a certain period of operation become an excellent conductor of sounds from neighboring apartments.

To fix the problem, first of all, it is necessary to dismantle all the skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. If you can, then with a hammer and chisel, make a seam in the floor (along all walls), the width of which is about 30 mm for the entire depth of the screed. Then this seam must be filled with a cement-sand mixture. Once cement mortar dry, the joints are treated with a non-hardening silicone sealant.

In the event that partial dismantling of the screed is not possible, for example, due to the presence of parquet, the expansion joint is filled with silicone sealant. After that, you need to attach the skirting boards in place.

Joints between wall-to-wall and wall-to-ceiling slabs

In most cases, long-term operation is accompanied by the formation of deformation cracks located between the ceilings and reinforced concrete slabs. Basically, these cracks are located under the wallpaper, so it is not always possible to notice them in time and determine the source of extraneous noise in the apartment.

First you need to remove the old wallpaper and embroider the joints between the concrete panels. The resulting voids are filled with a cement mixture or gypsum putty. When the putty dries, all joints are carefully coated with acrylic sealant. Excess sealant is removed, and the room is pasted over with new wallpaper.

Window

Windows can be a source of penetration into a dwelling not only of traffic noise, but also of the sounds of a music center from a neighboring apartment. Replacing old wooden windows with modern metal-plastic window structures will help to eliminate this problem. But it should be noted that certain noise from indoor sources may become more pronounced, which occurs as a result of the lack of masking of these sounds by street noise.

Modern plastic windows quite reliably solve the problem of the penetration of extraneous noise from the street into the apartment

In this case, it is necessary to carry out a number of the following actions:

To increase the quality of sound insulation of an old window, replacing existing 4 mm glass with thicker models, for example, 5 or 6 mm, will help.
Before starting the installation of new glass, the mounting points of the window sash around the entire perimeter should be carefully smeared with transparent silicone sealant. Then the glass is pressed tightly into the silicone “roller” formed in the sash. After that, the installation of glazing beads and the removal of excess silicone is carried out.
A rubber seal is attached along the contour of the porch in each window sash, which has a section in the shape of the letter “D”. If as a result of this the window has become worse to open, you need to seek help from a carpenter.

Alignment is highly discouraged. window slopes using drywall sheets, since resonance phenomena formed in air cavities can cause a decrease in the sound insulation of the window. In these cases, it is best to use cement-sand plaster, which is ideal for finishing slopes.

Entrance doors

Increased sound insulation of the front door, unfortunately, cannot always be a reliable guarantee of noise reduction that occurs as a result of the operation of the elevator winch or cabin (since these sounds are propagated along building structures). But, together with it, you can easily get rid of a lot of everyday noises, for example, the sound of heels on the stairs or the noise of elevator doors closing.

To get rid of this problem, the entrance group to the apartment should be equipped in the form of a vestibule. inner door can be made decorative, but the outer one must be equipped with anti-burglary qualities.

Entrance door soundproofing scheme

To ensure higher sound insulation, it is necessary to completely eliminate the various slots and holes that are located in the contact areas door leaf to the box when the door is closed. To do this, it is necessary that the door frames must have a threshold, as well as a sealing gasket throughout the porch, for which it is best to use rubber profile seals.

In most cases, the mounting gap between the doorway and the door frame is filled with mounting foam, which does not prevent extraneous noise from entering the apartment. In such situations, complete elimination is required. polyurethane foam with the subsequent filling of all voids with a cement mixture. After the cement mortar dries, the areas where the door frame adjoins the wall structure are carefully treated with silicone sealant, which will prevent the formation of deformation cracks in the future.

is a solution to many problems, because often people complain about noise from neighbors, sounds from the street and other things that interfere with their rest. Even the most cozy apartment cannot guarantee complete peace within her. To protect yourself from noise, it is necessary to carry out soundproofing. Moreover, the process itself is quite simple, so that everything can be done with your own hands.

Permissible noise standards

Now many materials have been created that can protect an apartment from outside noise. The most popular are the following:

Drywall.
Panels ZIPS and ecowool.
Ceiling panels.
Suspended ceiling.
Roll materials.

Soundproofing itself works in 2 directions. Firstly, it is soundproofing, that is, all sounds from neighboring rooms are reflected. As a result, the person will not hear anything. Secondly, this is sound absorption, that is, sound waves are absorbed, so that the neighbors will not hear anything either.

There are several types of noise. Airborne are those sounds that are transmitted only through the air. For example, these are the conversations of neighbors, laughter, screams, and so on. Such sounds enter the room through cracks, windows and doors. Impact sound penetrates through the walls themselves. For example, it can be the sound of a drill or other tools. Structural arises due to vibrations. It also penetrates walls, like a shock one. Sources are construction tools. As a rule, both shock and structural appear simultaneously.

Loudness is measured in decibels. There are permitted indicators that will be optimal for human perception. This is about 40-45 decibels. This sound does not harm the human body. An example would be a normal conversation. But this rule is valid only from 7 am to 11 pm. Then only a light whisper is suitable for a person, and this is approximately no more than 20 decibels.

Noisy businesses can emit sounds up to 85 decibels, but this is only an allowed figure. Moreover, people can work in such conditions no more than 8 hours a day. It is proved that during this time the sound will not cause harm to the human body. If the noise is stronger, then it is necessary to use special protective equipment.

The critical indicator is 110 decibels. When the level rises to 130 decibels, the person feels discomfort even on the skin. So it is not at all surprising that the owners of the apartment are often tormented by the screams of their neighbors. But you can protect yourself from this by building soundproofing. In addition, everything can be done independently, so you don’t have to hire a team of workers - even a beginner can handle the whole process.

Preparatory stage

Wall insulation from noise can be easily done with your own hands. First you need to determine in which room to install it. Then you need to select a surface. By the way, insulation is not always done only on walls. If the noise comes from the lower floor, then you will also have to decorate the floor with soundproofing material. The same applies to the ceiling, if the neighbors from above are noisy.

The preparation of the wall begins with the search for those places where there are cracks and crevices. It is through them that most of the noise passes. They definitely need to be sealed. This is very important, since even the walls themselves after such a procedure will better absorb noise and not let it into the room.

Next important point are sockets, since various sounds also penetrate through them. This is especially true for panel houses. Before soundproofing, you first need to turn off the electricity in the entire apartment. Be sure to follow the safety precautions. You can turn off the electricity on the shield, using the machine or simply pulling out the plugs. After that, you also need to check the outlet with a tester to be sure that there is no current in it. Then it needs to be disassembled and pulled out. The hole in the wall should be filled with glass wool or mineral wool. Remember that flammable materials must not be used. Next, you need to seal everything with mortar, which quickly hardens. For example, ordinary gypsum is suitable.

Now you need to do soundproofing pipes. It is necessary to process those places where they touch the wall. It is through the pipes that most of the noise enters the rooms from the entrance. It is best to use sealant for insulation, but it must be elastic. With this substance, all seams between the walls and pipes should be treated. By the way, you need to select a sealant that is also resistant to sudden changes in temperature.

Algorithm of actions when using various materials

Arrangement procedure do-it-yourself walls will vary depending on the materials used.

Plasterboard structures. To make a protective structure, drywall sheets are needed, special wooden slats, hardware for fixing profiles to walls, ceilings and floors. In addition, you still need to pre-purchase a drywall profile, self-tapping screws and special layers that will absorb noise. First you need to prepare the wall. Then you should create a frame on which drywall will be attached in the future. The profile cannot be fixed directly to the wall. It is necessary to retreat about a couple of centimeters, laying special gaskets with anti-vibration properties under the profile. They are made from cork or rubber. When the frame has already been built, it is necessary to lay glass wool or mineral wool with sound-absorbing properties. Instead, slabs of this material are still suitable, but they must be semi-rigid. When choosing a material, be sure to pay attention to the sound absorption index. It is usually much higher for softer materials, so these options are more effective. After installing the sound-absorbing layer, plasterboard plates are attached to the profile. Self-tapping screws are used to fix parts. By the way, drywall itself is also a material with excellent sound-absorbing properties. The final stage of work is gluing the joints between drywall sheets. Mesh is used. Next, the joints are puttied. After that, you can glue sheets of wallpaper or paint the walls.
Decorative panels. Now on the market building materials offers a variety of decorative panels from different manufacturing companies. If the wall is not completely flat, then it can be veiled with plates. They are attached to the crate with special liquid nails or are fixed to each other using the tenon-groove technique. This soundproofing method is very simple, but it also looks beautiful, since they themselves decorative panels you can choose from a variety of shades, textures, from different materials. As a result, the wall will look presentable. The cost of such panels is approximately 750-800 rubles per sq.m., but in terms of soundproofing properties they are not inferior drywall sheets. In addition, the panel is quite light in weight - only 4 kg, which is very convenient for the person who installs it. This option is suitable if you need to process all the walls in the room in this way, and not just one side. Then decorative panels will decorate the room, while reducing its area will be minimal.
Roll soundproofing. In this case, the material is glued to the wall - such wall soundproofing hands is very simple, and the method is low-cost. The material is sold in rolls. It is glued in the same way as wallpaper (for example, vinyl). A special glue is used, which is designed just for this. The cost of such material is approximately 1300-1400 rubles per roll, which is designed for 7 sq.m. This option is great if you do not want to invest too much in housing (for example, if it is rented). But it should be borne in mind that the effectiveness of this method is not the highest. The noise level will only be reduced by half.

Conclusion

No wallpaper will protect the tenants of the apartment from the noise from the street or from the exclamations of neighbors. To get rid of intrusive loud sounds, it is necessary to carry out soundproofing. The procedure itself is quite simple, so everything can be done by hand. This option will be the cheapest. In addition, you can choose various materials to your taste. Many of them are very easy to install to the walls, so that even a beginner will cope with this task.

If the neighbors hear everything that happens in your house, then we are not talking about any comfortable living. Houses made of wood or panels transmit sounds too well, so here you need to apply Additional materials absorbing noise. Soundproofing walls in wooden house- this is a stage of the same importance as wall insulation and installation of communications.

How to properly isolate yourself and your loved ones from unnecessary noise outside and inside? Before starting work, the first thing to do is to establish the nature of the noise and its source. Based on this, you will buy soundproofing material and sheathe them with exactly those places in the apartment where the noise comes from. For example, if a strong stomp is heard from the neighbors above, then you need to treat the ceiling with noise-absorbing material. If loud voices of neighbors or sounds from the street interfere, then it is necessary to sheathe walls and partitions, etc. Noise isolation can be done independently or use the services of specialists, in any case, it should not only protect the residents of the house from outside sounds, but also not give sound coming out of your room.

Noise types

There are different types of noise:

air - sound that propagates in space through air. This is the sound of voice, musical technology, TV;
structural - the sound that the gas and water pipeline systems in the house, the pump, the garbage chute make;
shock - noise from mechanical actions or from movements (stomping of feet, knocking, movement of a car). Such sound is transmitted through walls, the earth's surface, solid objects.

What kind of noise should you protect yourself and others from? There are specially developed sanitary standards that allow a certain volume of sound in residential premises. The regulatory document states that for daytime the volume should be no more than 65 dB, and for night time - no more than 45 dB, while children's crying has 80 dB.

Sound level versus sound pressure table

Loudness greater than 120 dB is considered hazardous to human health. That is why it is so important to ensure peace and quiet in the home by lowering the sound transmission of walls and other building structures.

The nuances of the process to improve sound insulation

Before buying noise-absorbing products and proceeding with their installation, it is necessary to carefully inspect the walls and ceiling for defects (cracks), and also close up holes around inaccurately mounted sockets using fiberglass for this. The following factors also contribute to the increase in noise in the house:

if the building materials themselves have low soundproofing properties;
if the doors and window frames of the old design, or low-quality double-glazed windows;
if finishing materials poorly absorb noise.

In order for the money and effort spent to give the expected result, it is necessary to focus not only on the sheathing of the room with absorbent materials, but also to do a number of related work:

replace old doors with more modern ones, with elastic seals along the contour;
change wooden windows on double-glazed windows;
install on interior doors seals;
cover the building from the outside with materials with high sound-absorbing properties;
use materials for facade decoration low level sound reflections.

If you do all of the above work, then this will not only save you from unnecessary noise outside and inside, but also significantly insulate the building.

Materials for absorbing noise in the house

There are many ways to soundproof walls in a residential building. Consider the characteristics of some of them and options for their use.

Cork noise insulators

Outside, you can use thick cotton fillers, but if you need to sheathe the walls inside, then the smallest thickness of the material is important so as not to take up a lot of room space. Porous cork wallpapers or cork wood panels will do just fine with this.

Cork not only does not let noise through, but, like any tree, it retains heat, and is also used as finishing material. Corridors, hallways, children's rooms are often trimmed with such wallpaper.

Loaded vinyl (or noise block)

If square meters especially small, then it is impossible to do without a vinyl film. Its thickness is not more than 3 mm, but at the same time the film is very heavy - 5 kg per square meter. This is what provides a large noise absorption coefficient.

Loaded vinyl (noise block) - high-quality, dense, but expensive membrane

Vinyl film is flexible, resistant to moisture, and the mineral dust that is added to it absorbs sound. One layer of material is capable of delaying sound at 25 dB, two layers - more.

ZIPS

ZIPS panels glued under the wallpaper.

They are a two-layer "sandwich", consisting of panels, inside of which there is a basalt fiber with a solid gypsum-fiber sheet.

Soundproofing panel ZIPS-Module floor

Such panels have a thickness of up to 7 cm and absorb up to 10 dB.

Substrates

Soundproof underlays and underlays for wallpaper.

This thin material is easily glued to the wall and is not at all expensive, but the effect of such sound insulation will not be great.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass slabs act as the middle layer in sound-absorbing partitions.

They are placed inside the interior partitions or between the floor slab and false ceiling. So that the fiberglass does not crumble during installation, it is wrapped with a special non-woven fabric.

Drywall

He also has the ability to delay sound, of course, in combination with other materials, for example, a “sandwich” of fiberboard, chipboard and drywall.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool, ecowool, basalt wool.

These are fibrous materials that absorb noise well, but have a large thickness, through which they cannot be used in a small room.

Expanded polystyrene

The material is environmentally friendly and durable. It has low thermal conductivity, therefore it is used for thermal insulation. It is thinner than mineral wool, resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. Able to delay sound at 4 dB. Often used as an insulating material in combination with others.

In general, it should be remembered that any type of noise-absorbing structure alone will not give the desired result. The more materials are combined when protecting the house from extraneous sounds, the better the effect will be.

Room soundproofing process

To completely block sound vibrations from one room to another, it is necessary to block all directions of sound wave propagation.

Walls and partitions

Most often, walls are isolated from extraneous noise and interior partitions. Various mineral wool very easy to install, so they are used more often.

Soundproofing walls in a frame house

To do this, perform actions in the following sequence:

Horizontal slats are nailed to the walls, this is a crate for ventilation.
A vapor barrier film is glued to the crate.
Construct vertical racks of aluminum.
Mineral wool or ZIPS panels are laid between the racks. The material inside is fixed with slats.
Then the vapor barrier film is glued again.
At the end, the walls are sheathed with some kind of finishing material.

Floor

To muffle the sound penetrating the apartment through the floor, use fibrous bulk materials: ecowool, basalt wool, etc. Cork and rubber substrate will also be good.

Isolate the floor like this:

The old floor is torn off, and waterproofing is laid on the logs and between them.
Next, lay the material for soundproofing.
Then again put waterproofing material.
On the top give a rubber-cork substrate.
And then chipboard plates are laid and the space between them and the wall is compacted with felt.

Ceiling

It is possible to seal the ceiling so that noise penetrates less, both from inside the room and from the side of the attic, if this private house. It is also desirable to negotiate with neighbors in a high-rise building, then the effect will be better.

Suspended ceiling soundproofing

Soundproofing the ceiling is done in this way:

Dismantle the old coating from the ceiling.
A construction stapler attaches a vapor barrier tape.
Next, fill the gap between the suspended ceiling and the coating with sound-absorbing materials. These can be foam boards, basalt wool, Ursa type roll insulation.
If the ceiling is wooden beams, then mineral mats are laid between the beams.
Sheathe the ceiling with finishing material.

conclusions

Soundproofing the walls in a wooden house is a necessary procedure, since in addition to protecting against unwanted noise, the above materials provide heat conservation in the home. And living in a warm and soundproof house is much more comfortable.

Soundproofing issues are more of a concern to residents apartment buildings. One of the neighbors is playing musical instrument, someone is in the midst of repairs, the clatter of small legs is heard from the ceiling - “and such rubbish - the whole day”, and sometimes you really want to relax in complete silence. And it happens the other way around, you want a noisy party, but at the same time there is no desire to spoil relations with your neighbors.

As a rule, new houses do not have good sound insulation: voids in the walls, holes for sockets and switches, heating and water pipes, as well as the structural elements themselves perfectly convey any sounds. Therefore, soundproofing in an apartment is the work of the residents themselves.

Sound insulation of walls and partitions

The main conductor of extraneous noise in any room are walls and partitions. Walls bordering the street do not need to be further insulated. You can get rid of the noise penetrating from the outside just by installing double-glazed windows on the windows. If this is not possible, then you can replace the glass with thicker ones or ensure that they are more tightly connected to the frame. To do this, it is enough to walk along the perimeter of the glass with silicone sealant.

But internal walls and partitions are not particularly thick and remarkably transmit sound vibrations of any frequency from next room. The easiest way to reduce the level of noise penetration into the room through the walls is the soundproofing of sockets, mounting boxes and joints, which we will discuss below.

For soundproofing thin walls and partitions, it is better to use a multilayer structure, characterized by alternating layers of different densities. This method is expensive and gives a good result only when using high-quality materials. The most effective for this purpose are fiberglass, basalt, spatula or silica fiber, as well as ready-made sandwich panels. Soft layers are lined with plasterboard panels.

Having decided on multilayer sound insulation, keep in mind that the area of \u200b\u200bthe room will be significantly reduced. Each lined wall reduces the linear dimensions of the room by more than 15 cm.

Technology of multilayer soundproofing of walls:

A wooden or metal carcass designed to secure soft insulating material. Metal, of course, will be stronger, but it will slightly reduce the soundproofing properties, so it is still preferable to use wood. During the construction of the frame, rubber or polyurethane gaskets must be placed under all its sections in contact with the wall.
The empty space formed by the frame is filled with soundproofing material.
The resulting structure is lined with drywall sheets or any other selected panels. After that, the joints are glued with masking tape and puttied. Next, another layer of solid insulator is applied, but the seams are overlapped by the previous ones.
The second layer is puttied and now it can be safely painted or wallpapered.

For example, we present to your attention a video that demonstrates the process of soundproofing a room using ISOVER material.

Soundproofing sockets and mounting boxes

During construction, through holes are made for sockets and mounting boxes, allowing you to simultaneously install electrical equipment and accessories in two rooms at once. Therefore, they serve as excellent conductors of noise from an adjacent room.

Before proceeding with isolation, it is necessary to de-energize them. After that, we completely remove all the electrics from the hole, and inside we place a cork cut from any sound-absorbing material, such as basalt fiber, and carefully cement it.

Mounting boxes are insulated in exactly the same way, only they differ in the presence of a plastic plug that must be pulled out. By the way, if you do not know, you can find the location of these boxes by tapping on the wall.

Sound insulation of joints

If the house is panel, then as a result of the natural settlement of the building, deformations structural elements and poor-quality work of builders, at the joints of adjacent walls, as well as walls and ceiling or floor, cracks form, which also transmit sound very well. Getting rid of them is easy. It is necessary to expand all cracks with a screwdriver or any other sharp tool up to 30-40 mm, thoroughly clean their cavity, completely prime it and cover it with a layer of putty. After complete drying, the joints should be covered with a sealant, preferably acrylic.

If it's already on the floor flooring, then it can not be disassembled. For good insulation, it is enough to fill the gap between the wall and the floor covering with silicone and cover it with a skirting board. As a rule, this helps to significantly reduce the level of vibrations transmitted through the floor.

Soundproofing entrance doors

A large number of sounds enter the apartment because of the front door. The conversations of neighbors, slamming doors, the sounds of the elevator, steps on the stairs - you can also get rid of them. The main requirement for entrance doors providing a high level of soundproofing is the absence of gaps. Therefore, it is enough to attach rubber seals in places where the door leaf touches the jamb and equip door frame at least by a small margin. If there are gaps between the frame and the doorway, they must be filled with cement mortar.

A good soundproofing effect is obtained by the use of two doors, and the second can be a thin decorative partition. The main thing here is the resulting small tambour, damping vibrations.

Floor soundproofing

The soundproofing of the floor must be taken care of even before laying the floor covering. Otherwise, it will need to be disassembled. In order to isolate the floor from the penetration of extraneous noise and to protect the neighbors living below from sounds penetrating from your apartment, you need to place a special insulating material under the floor covering or, even better, under the floor screed. Such materials for sound insulation are a thin layer of fiberglass, polymer or other substance with high plasticity and elasticity. It is necessary to lay such insulation so that its edges go to the walls, in this case, sound vibrations will not propagate further than the floor surface.

Ceiling soundproofing

by the most the best way isolation of the room from the penetration of extraneous noise from the ceiling is considered to be the installation of suspended or stretch ceilings. It is better to entrust such work to real professionals. It is almost impossible to stretch the canvas without wrinkles and distortions on your own. Especially if you have never done this job before.

If funds do not allow inviting specialists, then you can try to isolate the ceiling using a multi-layer structure. The technology of this work is not very complicated and is available even to a novice repairman:

The ceiling is thoroughly cleaned of all coatings.
A special acoustic material, more often felt, is glued onto the entire surface. To prevent lagging, it must be attached with dowels-"fungi".
At a distance of 60 cm from each other, profile hangers are attached, and on them a profile for drywall.
Sound-proofing material plates are laid on the ledges, while a small air layer should remain between them and the acoustic gasket. Usually 50-100 mm is enough.
The entire structure is clad in drywall.

Having decided to independently isolate the apartment from noise penetration, please note that for a good result it is important to use quality materials with high soundproofing properties. All costs for them are quickly compensated by the calmness of your family and good relationships with neighbors.