How to make a partition from drywall? Installing an interior plasterboard partition Make a wall of plasterboard a partition.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford the purchase of spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum comfort and comfort in what he has. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - you can divide any living space into functional zones with your own hands, dividing it with frame partitions sheathed with drywall and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall construction

Despite the features of the interior, your design intent, as well as the location and size of the drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced wooden beam at the point of installation of the doorway. To improve the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the design. Mounted and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum boards, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are mounted in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with drywall sheets have long and with great success replaced brick or wood partitions due to a number of characteristic advantages:

Material properties. A durable metal profile allows you to mount light partition frames of any shape and size, which do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material that has been specially treated to improve fire and moisture resistance. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or corkboard enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR has a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishes.
Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - their creation is within the power of even a beginner, "inexperienced" in construction work home master. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product is easily disassembled and reassembled.
Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
Minimum cost. All the elements that make up the partition sheathed with plasterboard are of low cost. During installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

Flaws

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
Low resistance of GKL to abundant exposure to moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak "organized" by neighbors living above.
The impossibility of fastening massive shelves on the surface of the partition or wall cabinets. The design is able to hold weight up to 70 kg per running meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of the GKL, we note that the competent creation and proper operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this short "course of theory" is over, let's move on to solving practical issues. Let's look at the list first necessary tool, we list the materials that we need to build the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
Angle grinder ("Bulgarian") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the desired length.
Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
Impact drill or perforator - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For mounting the structure at the upper levels, you will need a solid ladder-ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.

materials

At self-assembly partitions will use the following materials:

Two types of metal profile for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mount" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is the bearing element of the crate.
Plasterboard for sheathing - closes the frame on both sides.
Insulation - fills the inner part of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, it is necessary to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:

Profile. Standard mounting interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the partition itself should be thicker.
Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use GKLV - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and figured structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (corkboard or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.

In addition to the main structural elements, to create it you will need:

Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening frame elements.
Self-tapping drywall piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) – cladding installation.
Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The whole structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Master's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas for screwing in self-tapping screws on the surface of the skin - a reinforcing sickle tape, a primer for gypsum boards, and finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of skin layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a profile frame 75 mm wide and single-layer sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix entirely, vertically to the bearing walls. The rest of the length of 9.2 m will be covered with three four-meter strips of the profile (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for reinforcing the frame at the door installation site and mounting jumpers between the posts.
The black color indicates the UW profile, which forms the outline of the structure
Rack profile (CW). Given the standard width of the GKL sheet (1.2 m), the vertical racks of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and one more element is in the middle of the sheet.
Frame racks should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and as a result we get 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The gray color marks the vertical posts of the partition frame from the CW profile
Profile for a doorway. At the door installation site, we will have to move one rack, reinforcing it with a strip of a guide profile, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a segment of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Green color highlights two load-bearing reinforced racks, blue - lintel (upper beam) of the doorway
Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from the guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
Jumpers from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure
Drywall. As a material for sheathing, we use sheets (plates) of GKL 3000 long, 1200 wide and 12.5 mm thick. To close one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half the sheet. Five slabs are also needed here - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one post or 600 mm

Advice of the master: Double-sided installation of GKL sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition - use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 lanes;
rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fasten the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are mounted every 250–300 mm.

Engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PC.	29
5	Putty Knauf-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PC.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer Knauf-Tifengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool insulation Knauf	sq. m	1,0
11	Knauf profile PU	PC.	*

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the construction area.

Attention! To simplify calculations during the construction of a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the base material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let's be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of the neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.

Master's advice: Any construction work using drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room of at least +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting works. Before measures to create a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and layout

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the markup will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have applied is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finish.

Lathing installation

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

An angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors will cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the desired length. On the back side of the blanks, we will stick a sealing damper tape that softens sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line by drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise starting with the top rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot through” with a plumb line the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer
Let's install vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using the building level. Note that fasteners of a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level
We will form a doorway by installing racks made of a reinforced profile in the marked place. We measure the distance between the lower and upper part of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile given size. There are several options for reinforcing parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal (every 150–200 mm) or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, picking it up in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
We install a reinforced stand in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (this is where a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with metal screws. We mount the second rack in the same way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully insert it into the upper
Let's set the racks from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, we perform fasteners with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should fall in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the rails with metal screws
We will mount the horizontal jumper (upper beam) of the doorway. We cut off a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts from the guide profile strip. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the desired size with blind ends.
Inside the upper beam of the opening, you can insert a wooden beam, further reinforcing the structure
We will install a jumper between the opening posts in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be strengthened in any of the ways mentioned.
If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, it will be necessary to manufacture and install additional stiffeners - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal self-tapping screws.
Option for the location of transverse jumpers in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will mount the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
The wooden beam must be fixed at the installation sites of heavy hanging cabinets and other massive interior elements.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important step in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat, as well as isolate the room from extraneous noise

Master's advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

We will sheathe one side of the frame with drywall, starting from the whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step counting began for racks from the CW profile. Remember that when installing the GKL, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and a “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and cracking.
The cladding is mounted from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
We fasten the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting self-tapping screws for gypsum boards around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall surface.
With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join drywall sheets exactly in the middle of the profile
Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks by surprise.
Mineral wool cut to size slabs are laid between the racks of the crate
We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of attaching the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the cladding from the GKL, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach the extension or parts of a non-standard size, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, we insert into it door block and solve the issue with finishing the surface of drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the skin is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be pasted over with wallpaper, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with drywall, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a GKL partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to handle and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you will be able to do this work yourself without any problems.

Produced in residential, public or industrial buildings according to the developed technologies of the manufacturers of these structures. Being a prefabricated structure, a plasterboard partition is mounted on certain rules to ensure thermal, noise and humidity conditions in the room.

Fulfilling general rules installation of plasterboard partitions, you ensure the quality and durability of the structure, as well as prepare the quality of the further finishing of the partition. Let's formulate partition wall rules on the basis of TU and SNiP on this topic. They will undoubtedly come in handy for those who are renovating or building their home.

For builders and those who are under construction, roll mesh 100 100 of the Ural Frame and Reinforcing Plant (UKAZS LLC), manufactured according to all the requirements of GOST 8478-81 “Welded meshes ...” at prices without extra charges and intermediaries. The assortment of the plant includes rolled mesh with other mesh sizes, different widths and rod diameters.

General rules for the installation of plasterboard partitions

It is necessary to mount partitions in the warm season or in a room with heating;
All draft Finishing work, namely, the plastering of the walls and ceiling, the floor screed device must be completed;
If the partition is not planned for electrical wiring and plumbing, then these works must be completed;
If electrical wiring and plumbing are planned in the partition, then communications must be laid to the installation site of the partition;
When laying communications in a partition, it is necessary to ensure their safety and not damage them on the sharp edges of the profiles or screws when attaching sheets. That is, the electrical wiring must be laid in an electrical corrugation or pipe, and the water supply must be protected with bushings;
The frame in the doorways is strengthened with a wooden beam for durable hanging of the doors;

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Partition frame

The guide profiles of the metal frame of the partition are attached to the floor, walls, ceiling through a sealing tape, such as Dichtungsband. It increases the sound insulation of the partition and plays the role of a layer from deformation. In other words, if you put a layer, then the joints between the sheets will not crack after puttying and painting;
Rack-mounted partition profiles are installed after 60 cm (between the centers of the profiles). For short partitions, the distance between the uprights can be reduced to 40/30 cm;

The height of the rack profile must be 10 mm less than the actual distance between the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. That is, the rack profile should freely enter between the guides, it does not need to be hammered;
It is advisable to use a special tool for drywall to connect the profiles - a cutter. Alternative to the notcher, connection with screws LN 19 mm;
Mineral wool is used for soundproofing partitions;

Drywall sheets and their fastening

Sheets of drywall, which will sheathe the frame of the partition, must be brought into the room for acclimatization;
A joint is attached to the frame of drywall sheets. The joint should fall in the middle of the profile, with the exception of the extreme profiles;
The second layer of drywall is displaced by a multiple of the distance between the uprights (the "spread" of the sheets). The run-up cannot be less than 400 mm;
When using drywall sheets with a straight, rather than a folded edge, folds, 20 × 2 mm, must be removed from the edge of the sheet. They are needed for better putty joints;
Drywall sheets are attached to the frame with TN type screws. The screw is recessed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. This is necessary for better puttying;
The screw should go straight into the frame, clinging to it by 10 mm;
For single-layer sheathing, screws TN 25-30 mm are used. Mounting pitch 250 mm;
With two-layer sheathing, the first layer is fastened with 30 mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm. The second layer is fastened with TN45 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm;
In three-layer partitions, the first layer is fastened with 30 mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm, the second layer with a pitch of 500 mm, with TN45 mm screws, the third layer with TN55 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm.

Partition finishing

Before puttying, the edges and joints of the sheets are primed;
Before puttying the common surface, the joints are glued with a sickle with putty. If necessary, puttying the seams is done twice. With multi-layer sheathing of the partition, internal joints do not need to be glued;
The surface of the partition is puttied two-three-four times. The last layer of putty is finishing.

Partitions in wet rooms

In wet rooms, moisture-resistant drywall is used for partitions;
The junctions partition ceiling, partition-wall, partition-floor are glued with tape and covered with sealing mastic.

It's all rules for installing plasterboard partitions which I would like to present in this article.

Drywall partitions allow you to turn a large room into several small and functional ones: zone a nursery, separate the kitchen from the living room or dining room, isolate the hallway in the studio apartment, hide the toilet in the combined bathroom.

The device of interior partitions made of drywall suggests the presence of a doorway, an arch, or the creation of a false wall that does not completely cover the room. The material allows you to create a design of any configuration. At the same time, the construction of partitions from drywall sheets is a simple process and accessible to anyone who is able to hold tools in their hands. Let's consider how to mount the bulkhead from the GKL correctly and what is required for this.

If you know how to build a drywall partition, you can create a blank false wall, equip it with a door or archway, make windows or niches of an unusual shape.
Plasterboard sheets can be bent, which contributes to the construction of partition elements with volumetric edges.

To carry out the installation of a drywall partition quickly and without problems with your own hands, you need to proceed in stages. When installing a drywall partition with your own hands, use a simple step-by-step instruction:

The last step on how to make a high-quality drywall partition with your own hands is to remove the seams and attachment points of self-tapping screws with a sickle and putty.

A do-it-yourself drywall partition in places with changes in humidity and temperature should be made of a moisture-resistant material. The sheets are called GKLV and are painted green. To increase the resistance to moisture, a surface cladding should be ordered. tiles Or sheathe it yourself with plastic panels.

You can read more about how to make a drywall partition below.

Tools and materials

To create a partition structure from gypsum plasterboard, expensive materials and tools are not required. Everything you need is available in hardware stores at an affordable price.

materials

To create a partition of any configuration from drywall, a frame is required. It is assembled from a metal profile or wooden bars. The profile is preferable - it does not rot, practically does not deform, it is easier to attach, and at the same time it is identical in cost.

For different rooms and partition functions, you need to choose different types of plasterboards. If simple sheets are suitable in an ordinary room, then moisture-resistant ones should be preferred for the bathroom, and fire-resistant options (with a pink coating) for the kitchen.

What GKL for partition elements are:

Pay attention to the edge - it can be straight, thin, semicircular and rounded. The latter options allow you to better hide the seams due to the convenient filling with putty. This is important if a dense decorative finish, for example, with tiles, is not expected.

In addition to the metal profile and the drywall sheets themselves, the following fasteners and materials for the partition will be required:

dowel-nails;
rubberized seal;
self-tapping screws for metal;
putty for sealing seams;
sickle for joints;
self-tapping screws with a press washer.

You will also need an acrylic-based primer for processing before decorative finishing.

Required Tools

Before starting work, you should make a list of the tools necessary for the construction of the structure. You won't need many of them, and most are in every home workshop.

Basic tools needed:

spatulas;
regular or laser level;
planers on GKL;
metal scissors;
roulette;
hammer;
screwdriver;
hammer drill;
metal ruler;
marker.

You will also need a cutter to cut sheets of drywall. If there is no special cutter, a regular clerical knife will do.

Which insulation is better: polystyrene or mineral wool

To preserve heat and protect against the penetration of extraneous sounds, the inside of the partition is lined with special insulating materials.

Styrofoam or polystyrene allow you to quickly and efficiently insulate the false wall.

Their disadvantages are low mechanical strength and high fire hazard. And from an environmental point of view, this is not the best choice.

Mineral wool is a material with excellent insulating qualities, but its installation itself is a little more complicated and more expensive. But mineral wool is not subject to fire and is environmentally friendly.

Types of drywall profiles: dimensions, selection and scope

For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guides are used to fasten the frame frame to the ceiling or floor. They are divided into four types depending on the section: from 5x4 cm to 10x4 cm.

The length of guide profiles of any thickness is 300 cm.

The vertical parts of the partition frame are also made from the profile. Such fittings are also subdivided according to the section into four types: minimum 5x5 cm, maximum 10x5 cm. The length of the rack profile is 300–400 cm.

Partition marking

When erecting a plasterboard partition, first of all, you need to mark the installation room according to a previously created drawing:

First, we draw a perfectly flat line for attaching the guide to the floor.
Further on this line we mark the location of the door opening - we do not install the profile here.
We translate the line from the floor to the ceiling. To do this, you need a level and a plumb line.
Using a laser level, we draw a straight line at the junction of the bulkhead to the walls from floor to ceiling.

According to these marks, the frame of the false wall is mounted. It is important to clearly measure the required distances and draw lines on the floor and ceiling so that they are in strict parallel to each other. Then the zoning element will be even, without distortions.

Assembly and installation of the frame

The next stage after the markup is the construction of the partition frame, that is, the fastening of the guide profiles to the floor, ceiling and walls. A rubber seal is placed between the wall and the profile.

It is necessary for tight mating of load-bearing walls with a bulkhead.

Also, the damper tape acts as a buffer during shrinkage or expansion of the plasterboard partition element, due to changes in temperature and humidity in the room. The tape will protect against cracking and deformation.

How to properly assemble the frame

After the manufacture of the frame for the partition is completed, an electrician is pulled inside it, if it is provided. This can be done after sheathing one of the sides, or before that. The wires are packed in corrugated tubes.

Overlapping the upper part of the door or window opening can be done in this way: mark the required length on the profile, adding 150 mm on each side. These will be some kind of guides. From the sides of the profile, according to the marks, we measure the angles of 45 ° and notch along the cut line. Then we bend the extreme parts towards the profiles to get a U-shaped design. We put this blank with bent "ears" on the racks, after which we raise it to the required height and fix it with self-tapping screws.

cutting drywall

The process is carried out with a special tool for cutting drywall. This will help the material not crack or break.

How to cut drywall? Cutting sheets is done in the following way:

On the frame, the area that needs to be closed is measured.
Then, using a tape measure and a pencil, a sheet of drywall is marked.
Cutting is done with a special cutter or, in last resort, with a clerical knife so that the bottom paper layer remains intact. The sheet breaks along the notch and with reverse side cut through completely.
The chamfer is done in two ways: with a drywall planer or by removing the top layer of paper for the length and width of the seam.

When installing internal sockets or switches, after wiring the wires in drywall, holes for socket boxes are drilled with special crowns of the required diameter.

Drywall fixing

Sheathing of the partition frame with drywall is carried out using self-tapping screws 25–30 mm long and 150–200 mm apart and 15 mm from the edge of the sheet. The screw heads are recessed by 1 mm.

After facing with sheets of plasterboard on one side, they begin to lay thermal protection, sound insulation and install communications in the frame (if they have not been carried out earlier).

Drywall installation

When installing drywall sheets to the frame, it is taken into account that they should be less than the height of the walls and raised above the floor by 5–10 mm. To do this, use the same stands. The verticality of the installation is checked by level or rack profiles.

If you have planned the installation of shelves, hooks and other hanging accessories, you must pre-place wooden mortgages in these places.

Partition wall installation

The installation of a plasterboard partition is completed by the fact that insulating material is laid on the unlined side of the false wall, after which it is sheathed, like the first side. The position of the installed socket on the unsheathed side is determined in advance, since holes must be drilled before putting the GKL sheets.

What else is taken into account if you want to build plasterboard partitions:

When installing vertical racks, we direct the stiffener towards the beginning of the frame sheathing. This is due to the fact that the first GKL sheet is fastened from the side of the rib, and the second and further - to the rest of the rack profile. If you do not make partitions using this technology, they can be deformed.
If, in addition to erecting plasterboard partitions in the room, the entire perimeter of the plasterboard is lined, then the frame is first mounted in compliance with 90 ° angles.
With a high height of the element being erected, the sheathing is performed in a checkerboard pattern.

A properly constructed false wall has rigidity, stability and visual appeal.

Drywall partition

Drywall partitions are extremely popular due to the ratio of price and quality. They allow you to delimit the room. In particular, the partition in the children's room will prevent territorial battles, and in the living room it will designate study and recreation areas.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall partitions

Drywall is a relatively cheap and easily processed material. GKL partitions have many advantages:

environmental friendliness;
the ability to hide any communications;
variability of finishing;
light weight;
good sound isolation;
ease of installation;

The design does not require inclusion in the technical plan and approval in the BTI.

Cons: comparative fragility, susceptibility to moisture, difficulties in installing massive shelves or wall cabinets.

Features of plasterboard partitions

The bulkhead may be straight or curved. You can build several false walls connected to each other at an angle. Installation of such structural element the same as for a straight bulkhead. On the ceiling and floor, the contour of the partition is indicated, along which the profiles are installed. At the junction of the elements at an angle, vertical profiles are placed on all sides of the walls.

Finishing

Making a drywall partition is not all. It is important to properly finish the finish. First of all, you need to seal the joints of the plasterboard with reinforcing tape and cover it with a starting putty, leveling the seams and removing excess finishing material.

fine finish

If the joints of the sheets fell on those gypsum boards where the chamfer was removed independently, a primer treatment is done before gluing the reinforcing tape. All puttied seams and attachment points are also primed.

Fine surface finishing consists of applying a thin layer of finishing putty with a wide spatula and sanding with fine-grained sandpaper after setting.

The plastered walls are primed again. After it dries, they begin to wallpaper or paint the surface of the walls.

Those who have already mounted plasterboard false walls on their own advise:

Drill holes for wires at the same level if communications are supposed to be carried out.
Insert a jumper from the profile into the metal frame if you are going to hang a picture or a lamp.
If required, you can change the width of the partition - installation of profiles in two or more layers. The minimum thickness is a bulkhead on a single frame.

The installation of several layers improves the soundproofing and heat-insulating qualities of the partition element.

You can build a drywall false wall on your own in a few hours. You just need to adhere to all the nuances of technology.

The use of drywall for redevelopment of movements - great choice in favor of quality and easy installation. And GKL sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of drywall partitions is easy to do on your own, if you pick up quality materials and tools to make the process easier.

Before planning and destroying old floors, it is necessary to obtain permission from the house management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment scheme may affect the safety of the whole house. If redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

Basic mounting material drywall partition are sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is being erected for purely decorative purposes, there will be no door in it, and shelves and other heavy parts are not provided on the sides, then the thickness of the product may be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is selected not “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and the frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders identify a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. Such material is used in rooms with normal humidity indicators. If the partition is made in the bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture resistant drywall(it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

The next most important material is the profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used, as they are not sufficiently reliable. Most often, reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles are used. They are different type and thickness - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

dowel;
self-tapping screws with a press washer;
self-tapping screws for metal;
sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
acrylic primer;
putty;
serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools necessary for the construction of the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for the job

When installing a partition from a gypsum board, construction tools are used.

It is better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for mounting a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes and additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing a metal profile.

How to install a drywall partition

Before you install a drywall partition, you need to make sure that you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Do-it-yourself partition installation takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is marking. Never skip it, especially if you are installing a similar design for the first time.

Marking

It is necessary to start the installation of drywall partitions with markings. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a building corner.

The line must be perfectly even, because subsequently a profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with particular accuracy, otherwise the design will turn out to be a curve, which will lead to its premature wear and the impossibility of mounting the door.

Frame installation

After the markup has been applied and made sure of its evenness, guide profiles are installed. First, they put the part on the floor and fix it with dowels, bypassing the place for the door.

Advice! Holes for fasteners are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markup, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers plugs-dowels into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. After that, they make the final reconciliation of the markup, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, the rack profile is fixed along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal in terms of level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal rail. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then the screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, they proceed to the installation of the ceiling guide.

Advice! It is necessary to screw in the screws at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Fastening to the ceiling occurs in the same way as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, comparing the floor markings with the ceiling. Height measurements are taken for the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut with scissors.

The vertical profile must be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden bar. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed in the end.

If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are fastened approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings, calculate how many vertical racks will be required. They are fastened 300-600 mm apart. The required number of racks are cut out of the metal profile, then they are installed with their ends inside the guides. The process is controlled by the building level. It is necessary to fasten the profiles with self-tapping screws with larger caps.

electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, electrical wiring is made inside. You can do this after the installation of drywall partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. In the profiles, you need to make holes through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

The big stage is the sheathing of the frame according to the size of the GKL with sheets. It is necessary to fasten drywall with prominent self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fixing plasterboard). Fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheets are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, then they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of a plasterboard partition. To make a bevel, you can use a planer with a beveled knife.

Advice! If elements are used in the partition to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut with crowns of the desired diameter. Through them, wires are output after the complete installation of the structure.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, a heater is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene. Empty space must not be left, otherwise it will lead to the appearance of an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Installing the door frame

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

Set by level doorjamb with hinges using larger self-tapping screws.
The heads of the self-tapping screws are deepened into the wooden racks of the box.
The door is suspended (it is desirable to choose the lightest canvas possible).

If problems arise due to insufficiently even installation of profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled mounting foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Seam sealing

The final stage of the installation of partitions from GKL is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of self-tapping screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with applied glue, then the installation will be faster:

After all the procedures, they proceed to the stage of finishing the finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is necessary so that the decorative materials lie evenly and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy look will nullify all the efforts of the builder.

The finish is completed with the final layer of putty, after which it is treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

After cleaning the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait for complete drying. Now you can stick wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a drywall partition with your own hands is not only a simple, but also an exciting process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip the steps.

The main task of repair in apartments and houses is to bring the walls back to normal. Just a few decades ago, almost no one heard about the ideal smooth walls. Aligned, based on the principle of "at least somehow." The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls with GKL (plasterboard sheets).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, however, it is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cutting off the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fasteners on wooden bars is that when not dry enough (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can “lead” during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also the possibility of destruction of wood by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since lumber prices are much lower than profiles.

Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to get a perfectly flat surface with any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled, so that the front part of the jumper and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the plasterboards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the frame from the profile is the possibility of laying a sound pickup and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without a heater it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

Installation of drywall sheets immediately on the walls.

In other words, installing GKL on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in heaps, if there are differences, and in strips, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, fixed with props and wedges.

The latest technology - landing drywall on glue, the fastest, however, it also has disadvantages. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a mortgage beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly smooth (difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the GKL bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video

So, when sticking a sheet on a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about metal frame. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are exactly the same, they just use special self-tapping screws for wood.

The purpose of drywall sheets and their dimensions

A few words about how to put GKL on the walls and what sizes they are. Standard sizes such: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

12.5 mm - universal material for ceiling and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as those used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be deployed inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join drywall sheets in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By shifting the seam, with almost one hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall mounting rules: photo, video

During installation, drywall sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened with special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 self-tapping screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called “for drywall”. Color - white or black (more often breaks), length - 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, flat-head self-tapping screws of similar size are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the desired depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while not tearing the cardboard, it must also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, so you reduce the likelihood of damaging the cardboard layer responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each drywall sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls on the middle of the profile.

Having indented from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be displaced or placed above one another. Mounting step - 250-300 millimeters. Mounted on the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another important point is the height of the installed sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Partition for a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level (high quality). Then, using the level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is not more than 40 centimeters.

PN-profile has a standard wall height (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the carrier profile will determine how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity, make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that a heater is installed.

Racks to rails are attached in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, fastens two parts. During self-repair work with gypsum boards, amateurs are attached to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (the holes do not need to be drilled). On each side of the rack is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling rail and the junction of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of creaking. During walking, a vibration occurs that is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profiles rub, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the drywall sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, however, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and stagger. Another important point lies in the fact that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is fixed with screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are stiffened with the help of jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are a prerequisite for plasterboard sheathing. It is also desirable to strengthen them with a wooden bar.

Laying communications, plasterboard walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. Everything is desirable electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and drywall.

After laying communications, they begin to mount drywall sheets. They are installed exactly as when sheathing. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls use conventional insulation.

Styrofoam. One of the varieties of foam. Differs in cells of the closed form thanks to what possesses the best performance: fungi do not develop, do not like rodents, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and is easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. Minus - high price.

Styrofoam. To obtain excellent characteristics in terms of heat and sound insulation, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burning, it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

Mineral wool. This stone wool(preferably basalt), slag or glass wool. Basalt is considered the most environmentally friendly, because it does not contain formaldehyde. It is quite easy to work with them, they hold well by surprise, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, they do not need respiratory and skin protection during installation. Their disadvantage is the high cost. by the most affordable option of these heaters is slag wool, glass wool has an average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other heaters, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

sheathing the walls drywall sheets, You will have to cut the sheets, because it is not always possible to install them completely. This will require a clerical knife, a long, even object (rule, level, timber, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the sheet.

We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all features of this process can be described, some are better to see with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming work, and how well the frame is formed depends on how even the partition and wall will be.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really tough. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the GKL, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

The market has various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of the metal, it is stiffer. How good it is in practice, look at the video.