Two-story frame extension to a wooden house. Attach to a wooden house - how to do it right

Building a new residential building is an expensive and somewhat risky undertaking. Another issue is the expansion of the existing building in order to increase the usable area. Add an extra room to country house or a cottage will cost much less than building everything from scratch. But this does not mean that designing and installing a new room is a simple matter, there are a lot of pitfalls on your way. In order to avoid mistakes, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations on how to make an extension to the house with your own hands and at minimal cost.

What kind of extension to make

To answer this question, you will have to do the design, from which any construction begins. Sketch the plan of the old building to scale, locate the extension and plot it on the drawing. thinking over internal layout new part, you will be able to accurately determine its dimensions. Draw a side view to get an idea of ​​how much space you have in terms of height given the slopes of the roof.

An important point. Careful drawing and verification with real dimensions on the spot will help to avoid unpleasant errors associated with the size of the part being erected, its height, and especially with the slope of the roof. Minimum Angle roof slope - 8 °, you can not do less, otherwise there will be leaks after showers and snowfalls.

A full-fledged project should provide material for the construction of an extension. Its choice depends on the purpose of the new premises:

1. A full-fledged room with access to the hallway, equipped with heating and other communications - a bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom or a bathroom. This is a capital building, built of brick, aerated concrete, foam block and their combinations. Timber products are also well suited - timber and logs.
2. Light extensions - veranda, outdoor terrace, vestibule or porch with a polycarbonate canopy. It is better to build such premises on a frame made of wood or metal structures, sheathed OSB boards followed by finishing. Greenhouse and winter Garden made of glass.
3. Outbuilding to the house - barn, garage, boiler room. These structures are both capital and light, the choice of material depends on your desire and capabilities. Common options are cinder block, shell rock and wood. A more progressive solution is sandwich panels with insulation on a rolled metal frame.
4. A separate question - what to make an extension to the balcony apartment building on the first floor. The answer is simple: the same partition should adjoin the brick wall so that the structure does not fall out of the exterior of the building. Near the panel house, you can use any stone blocks, but then they will have to be finished to match the color of the surrounding walls.

Note. Regarding the building materials used, not requirements are listed, but recommendations. You are free to make an extension at your discretion, for example, to build a brick structure near a log house. But such solutions are more difficult to implement, and most importantly, more expensive.

How to make a foundation for an extension

For attached premises, 4 types of bases are used, depending on the weight of the structure and the quality of the soil:

• columnar - for lightweight structures on a wooden frame;
• pile-screw foundation is used on subsiding soils for mounting structures made of wood and metal with a small mass;
• tape - for heavy stone buildings;
• reinforced concrete monolithic slab it is poured over the entire area of ​​​​the attached part, erected from bricks or blocks on unstable soils.

An example of a columnar base made of concrete

Advice. Modern frame houses are increasingly placed on screw piles. If this is your case, then the choice of foundation is obvious - a pile-screw foundation, it makes no sense to use another type.

A solid concrete slab is used quite rarely due to the high cost, and screw piles are best left to professionals in this field. To independently attach a light veranda or summer gazebo, a columnar base is recommended. For brickwork or walls made of gas blocks, it is better to fill in a concrete tape, we will consider these 2 methods further.

Traditional strip foundation

columnar base

A properly made foundation of this type is cheaper than tape and is well suited for light buildings. Its device begins with marking the site and designating the mounting points for future vertical racks of the frame. The pillars, and hence the soles for them, should be placed in increments of 1.5 m, as shown in the diagram.

The further course of action is as follows:

1. Dig square holes 50 x 50 cm in size at the indicated points, deepening 70-80 cm. The task is to put a support on dense stable soil, so the bottom of the pit must be tamped.
2. Sprinkle 15 cm of sand or fine gravel and compact again. From M150 concrete, pour a platform at the bottom, and after hardening, cover with roofing material in 2 layers (waterproofing).
3. Lay out the 38 x 38 cm square posts of red ceramic bricks to the required height.
4. Apply a bituminous primer to the walls of the columns or stick a welded waterproofing. Lay the roofing material on top of the support again.
5. Cover the sinuses around the foundation with earth and lightly tamp.

Reference. Foundation pillars for a frame extension can be cast from M200 concrete, but then you will have to put up formwork and knit reinforcing mesh.

Strip foundation device

Under the base of this type, you need to dig a trench along the contour of the future premises, which is shown in the photo below. The width of the ditch should be made 15 cm more than the thickness of the brick or foam block wall. The depth depends on the location of the stable soil layer and ranges from 50-100 cm. The walls of the pit must be cleaned, and the bottom must be tamped and a sand cushion 100 mm thick should be poured.

Advice. When digging a trench, be guided by the depth of the foundation of a private house (if it is reinforced concrete or block). The rubble foundations of very old dwellings can be less buried, so you should not be equal to them.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Compact the poured sand and install a wooden panel formwork with external supports and internal stretch marks (possible from studs with nuts) that do not allow the sides to move under the weight of concrete. The height of the formwork is not lower than the level of the basement of the existing building.
2. Tie or weld frames of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm to make cells 10 x 15 cm. Install them in the trench on stands 50 mm high.
3. Prepare the M150 concrete mix in the following proportions: M400 cement - 1 part, dry sand - 3 parts, crushed stone with a fraction of up to 40 mm - 5 volumes.
4. Perform layer-by-layer pouring of the strip foundation to the height of the base of the house. It is highly desirable to compact concrete with special vibrators (rent).
5. Remove the formwork after 7 days, and continue work after 3 weeks, when concrete mix will harden.

Advice. So that the concrete does not lose milk during pouring and subsequently does not absorb moisture, cover the trench with the formwork with plastic wrap before installing the reinforcing cages.

If you want to make the extension warm initially, then after the foundation has solidified, insulate it from the outside with foam plastic, or better with foam plastic. Lay drainage along the bottom of the ditch and fill the sinuses with soil, then cast the blind area with insulation, as shown in the diagram. For an unheated extension, treat the base with bitumen or stick waterproofing (for example, from the well-known brand TechnoNIKOL). Lay roofing material in 2 layers on top of the plinth and proceed to the formation of the floors. You will learn about all the stages of work by watching the video:

Floor installation

The first stage of building an extension to the house with your own hands is the installation of floors, which are of 2 types:

• flooring on wooden logs;
• cement strainer.

Note. On the column foundation floors can only be built on logs, and on tape - any to choose from.

The wooden floors of the extension are made using the following technology:

1. Lay wooden lintels on the brick posts - bars with a minimum section of 10 x 15 cm and fix them with anchors. On the corner supports, join them in half a tree (how to do this is shown in the photo). Fasten the bars between each other with steel corners on self-tapping screws.
2. Install the lags in the same way.
3. If insulation is not required, then lay a rough floor of 40 mm thick boards.
4. To insulate the floors, nail cranial bars to the bottom of the lag, lay boards and insulation with vapor barrier on them. Then lay the rough floors.

An example of connecting beams in half a tree

For a screed device, the space inside the strip foundation is covered with earth, compacted with watering. From above, fill the recess with expanded clay to a height of 20-30 cm and fill in the screed. Let it harden for 2-3 days and proceed to the construction of walls.

Construction of extension walls

The order of construction of an open veranda or porch depends on the project and design of the structure. But in any case, the installation begins with the installation of vertical racks and tying them together with horizontal jumpers. Here, a wooden beam 10 x 15 cm or steel profile pipes with a section of 80 x 60 mm or 60 x 60 mm are most often used.

Reference. Builders frame houses another technology is practiced: the wall sections are entirely assembled on the ground, and then they rise and are attached to the foundation and to each other.

Docking of the beams is best done in half a tree or in a groove with fixation with steel corners on self-tapping screws, as shown in the diagram. From above, the pillars are united by a horizontal beam, where they will subsequently lie roof rafters. The ends of this jumper are securely attached to the wall of your house. A cold extension can be immediately lined with OSB boards (OSB), which will make it possible to tighten the frame. The heated room will need to be insulated with mineral wool 100 mm thick. For more on the construction of frame walls, see the video:

The main walls of the extension are built of bricks or blocks according to all the rules of masonry - with dressing of the seams and checking the vertical. The first row is laid around the entire perimeter, and then you need to form corners, raising them by 4-5 rows. Next, a wall is built to the same height, after which the action is repeated.

Advice. Tie brick or block masonry to the walls of the house by drilling holes through 2-3 rows and inserting reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm into them.

Roof installation

As a rule, the roof of the extension is made on wooden beams, based on the existing wall of the house and a new partition. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. Attach with anchors to the wall of the building a horizontal board with a thickness of at least 50 mm to support the rafters. In a stone outbuilding, lay the same boards on top of the walls and secure them.
2. Install rafters from a board of 15 x 5 cm (minimum section) in increments of 600 mm to match the size of the slab insulation. Screw them to the supports using steel corners and self-tapping screws.
3. Lay the waterproofing on the beams - a diffusion membrane with an overlap of 10 cm and nail it to the rafters with planks.
4. Lay roofing - slate, metal or corrugated board. In order for water to drain properly from the roof, slate must be brought under the roof overhang of your home.

Simple truss system of a wooden extension

If necessary, insulate the roof of the extension by inserting mineral wool slabs between the beams by surprise. Put insulation on the bottom vapor barrier film and sew with facing material. More information about the installation of the roof of the extension is described in the video:

Conclusion

All work on the construction of an extension to the house is best done with an assistant, many operations alone are inconvenient to perform. You can cope with a one-story building without any problems, you just need to allocate time. Do not forget to treat the wood with an antiseptic compound and paint it well so that the frame of the veranda or porch will last for many years.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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The construction of an extension allows you to significantly expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200ba wooden house and make it more solid in appearance. Similar structures are assembled from the most different materials. It can be, for example, wood, brick or gas blocks. Of course, when building an extension, certain technologies should be observed. We will talk further about how such structures are assembled correctly.

Drafting a project

When planning such a structure as an extension to a wooden house, first of all, you should decide:

• With material for walls, foundation and roof. A frame block or log structure is usually attached to a wooden building. Sometimes the walls are made of brick or gas blocks. Roofing material for the extension is better to choose the same as the roof of the building itself is covered. In any case, you should try to make sure that the colors of the coating sheets are at least in harmony with each other. The foundation for the extension is chosen of the same type as the foundation of the building itself.
• with the size of the building. The extension area should not be more than 2/3 of the house area. Otherwise, the building will look awkward and ugly. The house looks most harmonious when the area of ​​the new building is 1/3 of the old one.

The extension of a terrace to a wooden house, a veranda or a closed capital structure is carried out in such a way that their roof is located just below the main roof. Of course, the angle between these two structures must not be negative. Otherwise, snow and water will accumulate at the junction.

Foundation construction

Marking for such a structure as an extension to a wooden house is done in the usual way - using a level or using the “Egyptian” triangle method. The foundation of the extension should be laid to the same depth as the foundation of the building itself. Rigidly concrete tapes of houses and extensions are usually not connected. Otherwise, when a new structure shrinks, cracks may appear at the junction. However, sometimes the foundation of an extension is still tied to an existing one. In the event that cracks subsequently appear, they are simply covered with cement mortar.

The choice of the type of interface depends mainly on the type of soil and the material of the walls. If strong shrinkage is expected, it is better not to tie the foundations. The foundation for the extension is poured in the usual way: with a sand cushion, waterproofing and reinforcement.

Frame structures

This is the cheapest type of extension, characterized by good performance. Such structures are erected in just a few days and do not shrink at all. Even a not very experienced private builder can assemble a very comfortable and aesthetic frame extension to a wooden house. The projects of such structures are unusually diverse. If necessary, using this technology, it will not be difficult to build an ordinary summer extension-veranda, an insulated residential structure, a workshop, a kitchen, and even a boiler room.

Construction features

The foundation is preliminarily built for a month. When erecting under frame walls, anchor bolts should be poured into it in increments of approximately 1.5 meters. On them and fix the bottom strapping. Its corners are usually connected using the "half-tree" method. A frame extension to a wooden house will turn out to be even more reliable if metal rods 40 cm long are poured into the foundation at the corners so that they protrude 20 cm above the surface. In this case, holes are drilled in the strapping beam in appropriate places.

The assembly of the frame begins with the installation of corner posts. Holes are drilled under the pins at their ends. Next, intermediate racks are attached (in increments of 1.5 m). Fixation is usually carried out on galvanized steel corners. In order for the pillars not to deviate from the vertical during the construction process, they should be fastened with temporary jibs. The next step is to assemble the top harness. They also fasten it to the corners, and in the corners - using the “half-tree” method.

They continue the construction of such a structure as a frame extension to a wooden house by fixing the log to the beam of the lower trim and sheathing the floor with an edged board. The floor beams are fixed to the top. After that, you can start covering the walls. First, from the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane (bars) is attached to the pillars of the frame. Next is performed inner lining. Then, a heater is installed between the pillars from the side of the street (if the extension is winter). At the final stage, the structure is covered with a waterproofing film and sheathed with clapboard, board or siding.

Construction of block walls

Such an extension to a wooden house looks beautiful and is durable. It is also not too difficult to build, but it costs more than a frame one.

The lower crown of such an extension is laid on a waterproofed foundation in the same way as the framing of a frame structure - that is, with fastening to an anchor. Logs are fixed to it, and the floor is sheathed with a board. The assembly of the walls is carried out in the usual manner. Corners can be connected by butt or half-tree methods.

Expansion joint

A very reliable extension to a wooden house is obtained from a bar. Projects may include the construction of both open verandas and capital heated buildings from this material. However, in any case, one simple rule should be observed: it is impossible to immediately tie the walls of the extension to the house rigidly. The beam after erection gives a very strong shrinkage. Therefore, at the junction of the walls, an expansion joint should be arranged. It is very easy to do this. On both sides of the extension wall (from the side of the room and the street), bars of 100 x 100 or 50 x 50 mm are nailed to the house itself. All cracks are filled with some kind of plastic material - for example, mastic or a special sealant.

If necessary - not less than two years after the erection - an extension to a wooden house or any other, made of timber, can also be attached rigidly. In this case, either staples or special pads with screws are usually used.

brick construction

Wooden extensions - structures, of course, are beautiful and are just perfect for a suburban residential building. However, many owners of cobbled and log houses prefer to build more durable and permanent brick structures. Such an extension is assembled in the usual way with dressing of the seams, the thickness of which can be 1-1.5 cm.

Rigid connection of the walls of the extension and the house, of course, should not be done either. The brick structure has a very large weight and settles significantly. Therefore, the interface between the walls is arranged simply end-to-end with filling the seam mounting foam or in the same way as in the first case between the bars.

Features of the construction of roofs

Thus, the extension of a veranda to a wooden house or a more permanent structure is usually carried out without hard mount walls. The same rule should be observed when assembling the roof. The roof of the extension can be of any shape, but most often the usual shed construction is erected.

At the first stage, the ceiling is hemmed from edged board or plywood. Further, any vapor or waterproofing material is laid on top of it. Then - a heater. After that, the resulting overlap is sheathed with a board from above.

The rafters are attached on one side to the upper trim or Mauerlat. In this case, metal corners or fastening "in a knot" with a preliminary cutting of the landing nests are used. From the side of the house on the strapping, you can either simply put a wide beam on the edge, or install it on racks. A waterproofing material (with a slight sag) is stretched onto the rafters and the crate is stuffed. Then the roofing sheets are attached. The joint between the roof of the extension and the wall of the building can be sealed with mastic or foamed.

• The junction of the foundation of the extension and the foundation of the house, in the event that they are not rigidly fastened, should be laid with a strip of roofing material.
• All wooden elements of the building are pre-treated with an antiseptic against fungus and a composition that increases the fire resistance of the material.
• A cobbled extension is best erected in the cold season. In winter, this material shrinks less.
• When assembling an extension of any type, it is worth using only galvanized fasteners. This will extend the life of the entire structure.

Building extensions, as you can see from the article, is a completely simple matter. The most important thing is to comply with all the required technologies. In this case, a reliable, durable and convenient structure will be obtained.

Do-it-yourself extension to the house without first obtaining permits is an illegal increase in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling. It cannot be legitimized in fact if it violates the interests of neighbors, is built from materials that do not meet the norms of SNiP, and is located near underground utilities. The optimal solution is the design before the start of work with preliminary design by specialists.

An extension to the house is an excellent solution for expanding free space in a country dwelling of any type. It is important that all construction work can be done independently.

Of course, this will require certain construction skills and knowledge of work technologies, but there is nothing particularly difficult about it. The help of specialists may be required at the design stage of the structure, as well as when supplying communications inside the structure. In addition, certain problems often arise when legalizing an extension in the regulatory authorities.

The attachment can perform a variety of functions.

Most often, an extension is erected to form an additional room, a summer kitchen, a garage, a veranda, a terrace, a canopy, a porch. There are a huge number of options - everything will depend on personal requirements and wishes. Of course, it will be very difficult to build something from a technological point of view, but often all construction is done by hand.

The main thing here is to correctly build the foundation, walls, roof, insulate and isolate the room from moisture, and also correctly attach the new foundation to the old one.

Types of extensions for country houses

Before starting any construction work, it is necessary to clearly define the type of construction, because it is possible to make an extension to the house only if there is a clear plan and project. There are several most common types of extensions in our country:

canopy

This is the simplest and least expensive extension for a country house from all points of view. The main functional task of such a design is to ensure the protection of people and things located under a canopy from sunlight, rain and other precipitation. Under such a canopy it will be good to relax in the warm season and dine, or you can park the car.

Canopy for a car.

An important advantage of the canopy device is that the construction of a foundation is not required, because the supporting pillars (made of metal, wood, concrete) will act as the base. The canopy frame is attached to these supports.

summer room

To form a summer room, more capital construction will be required than in the case of a canopy. Such premises are intended for relaxation in the warm season, gatherings, reading books, etc. Naturally, a foundation device is required.

It is recommended to use a columnar or strip base, depending on the type of building material and the dimensions of the room. To create walls, boards, foam concrete blocks, frame shields are usually used. For better illumination, the walls and roof, in whole or in part, can be made of glass.

Summer room.

Such an extension usually has a shed or gable roof. Roofing material is recommended to use the lightest. Mounting thermal insulation materials, as a rule, is not carried out, because such premises are not operated during the cold season.

Living room

Before you attach a room to the house, you must perform all the required calculations and draw up a project. In this case, a thorough approach will be required, which involves the construction of a foundation, the capital construction of walls and roofs, the installation of waterproofing and heat-insulating materials, and the supply of all necessary communications.

Warm living room.

Particular attention is paid to the insulation of the premises, that it was possible to live here in winter time without spending a lot of energy on heating.

Kitchen

As a rule, extensions are not intended for kitchen equipment. Such a structure should be capital, so it needs to be insulated as efficiently as possible.

Wooden kitchen.

It is possible to build such an extension correctly only using a high-quality project created by professionals, because the kitchen needs all communications: sewerage, water supply, electricity, gas, ventilation system. This, of course, leads to serious financial costs, which not everyone is ready for.

Garage

Using an extension to build a garage is a very common trend in recent years. A garage will require the construction of a strip or monolithic foundation, and foam concrete blocks or bricks are usually used to build walls.

Two garages.

The roof, in most cases, is made of profiled sheet or metal tiles, slate or roofing material. Mandatory communications for the garage - ventilation system and heating.

Connecting an extension to a country house

Many people choose for a long time where to attach a new room to their house, so that it is easier to connect it to the main building. There are two options to choose from here:

• Independent building. In the event that difficult ground conditions are observed on the ground (for example, heaving soils or a high level), then it is recommended to build an independent structure that will not be connected to the main house in any way. In this case, the extension and the main structure do not have points of contact, so they do not depend on each other. At the same time, the minimum possible distance is observed between the two buildings, which is a technological gap that must be filled with heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.
• The introduction of an extension to the design of the old building. Such a decision implies a certain laboriousness, because the construction will involve the observance of all the necessary technologies and a lot of calculations and research. First of all, it will be necessary to properly build and insulate the foundation, which must be correctly connected to the base country house. This is usually done with reinforced rods. According to approximately the same technology, the walls and roof of structures are connected.

Features of the construction of the roof for an extension to the house

The roof of the extension to the house can have any shape - here again everything will depend on the requirements and wishes of the owners. Along with this, most often suburban homeowners choose shed roofbecause it is easy to perform, it is easy to insulate it on your own, it goes well with other types of roofs that the main structure may have, and also removes precipitation well, not allowing the entire structure to experience additional loads.

In order for precipitation from the roof of the extension to drain in normal mode, the design of the roof implies a roof slope of 20 degrees or more.

In addition, special attention must be paid to the establishment of the roof of the annex under the roof of a country house. If everything is done correctly, the wall located between the extension and the country house will be protected from water ingress through the joint between the two structures. In addition, the roof of the extension should be extremely harmoniously combined with the roofing material of the main building and harmoniously fit into the exterior of the building, without standing out from the general background.

In the design process, it is very important to correctly calculate the load that the roof structure will give. Take into account the weight of the rafters, roofing material and other structural elementsused in the construction of the roof.

It is important to understand that the extension to the house on screw piles or pillars is not designed for too serious loads, unlike a monolithic or strip concrete foundation. You also need to insulate the roof (you can insulate using any suitable heat-insulating materials, which are recommended to be covered with waterproofing from above).

How to legalize construction?

Building an extension to an old or new country house is half the battle. Any additional premises erected on land plot, it is necessary to document and obtain permission to carry out construction work from regulatory authorities.

Do-it-yourself extension to the house can be done in any way - no one will force you to invite builders, however, the suburban homeowner must submit to the employees of the regulatory services a well-designed building project.

The procedure for processing all documentation for an extension to an old country house usually takes from several months to a year.

An interesting point is that you can start collecting documents and obtaining a building permit after all the work has been completed. This is permitted by applicable law.

At the same time, when reviewing documents, employees of the regulatory body may have some claims that will have to be without fail correct (for example, the location of the building relative to underground utilities or the use of unsuitable building materials).

Consider buildings to the house and not extensions

Pergola - the simplest structure and a great place to relax.

Barbecue is a great place for receiving guests and holidays.

Quite often it happens that the construction of a private house was carried out without the construction of outbuildings, but then the need for them arose. Modern house designs often assume only the utilitarian function of the house - people will live there. And what, that a person will also conduct some kind of economic activity - no. In addition, sometimes there is an urgent need to increase the living area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. An extension made of foam blocks, a brick extension, a wooden one - the creation of these structures will help solve this issue once and for all.

Extension types

The type of buildings is determined depending on what exactly should be in it. It can be a room, a toilet, a garage, a kitchen, and anything. By the way, in central Russia you can often find a building in the form of a greenhouse in which you can grow fruits and vegetables even in winter.

Scheme of the device of the garage-extension

Indeed, in this case, all the necessary engineering communications can be easily extended from the house. Of course, the construction of the structure must be agreed upon, even if we are talking about wooden terraces or simply attaching a veranda to the house.

Creating a project and choosing the location of the extension

Projects and construction of such structures involve the following stages:

As for the choice of materials, it is better to be guided by the following rule: it is necessary to create projects and build an extension from such materials as the house itself consists of.

Sectional view of a frame house

For example, if it is necessary to attach terraces to a wooden house, then it is better to let it be wooden. Of course, this rule is not always possible to comply with.

Suppose a person wants to breed chickens, he needs a high-quality, windproof, warm brick outbuilding. In this case, this option should be preferred, despite the fact that the house is wooden.

Options for the location of extensions to a standard wooden house

Estimation calculation

Actually, the estimate itself is not so difficult to draw up, it is necessary to take into account the following:

An example of a veranda attached to a wooden house

An estimate for construction should be drawn up immediately after the projects are ready, regardless of whether the terraces will be attached or just wooden utility blocks. This will help you avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.

Foundation erection and foundation connection

In Russia, baths are often attached to wooden houses

Even the construction of an ordinary terrace for a wooden house involves the creation of a new foundation for it. The option of extending the old foundation disappears immediately: it is impossible to do this, but to combine both foundations into a single whole later is not only possible, but also necessary.

For example, even under wooden terraces, you will need to make exactly the same foundation as the main house. So, first you need to decide on the type of foundation itself.

General scheme gable devices frame house

Actually, there are 3 foundation options that can be used as a base for an extension:

1. Monolithic;
2. Columnar;
3. Tape.

The columnar foundation is used extremely rarely in Russia, since it can only be installed on very hard soils such as mountainous ones.

It can be used, for example, to build a gazebo, but such structures are usually not attached to the house, but placed next to it. By the way, instead of a foundation, you can take old tires for a gazebo - this will be quite enough.

Scheme of laying an extension from foam blocks

For capital buildings and garages, reliable and durable foundation structures are needed. Mostly prefabricated and monolithic tapes or a monolithic slab. When using poles and screw piles, it is mandatory to tie with a grillage, and to protect the space under the floor, pick up from the cladding with basement siding with insulation from basalt mineral wool or other similar heaters. On the top of the foundation, horizontal waterproofing is required from rolled waterproofing materials (stekloizol, hydroisol, rubemast or roofing material).

A good option is a frame extension to the house. The frame is constructed from wooden blocks filled with insulation (for example, mineral wool boards) and lined with thick moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or other materials. The attached building can be made with window openings. The doorway is more convenient internal, which allows passage to the attached part without going outside. But it is also possible to enter the device directly from the street.

The roof is most often arranged single-pitched. It is important to ensure that snow does not accumulate at the junction, so the roof is made with a slope angle of ≥ 25 degrees. The canopy is most often covered with sheets of monolithic polycarbonate or ondulin.

The floor, depending on the purpose of the room, can be concrete (mainly in garages, workshops and storerooms), wood, lined with porcelain stoneware or tiles. Often arranged "warm floors".

The walls of the garage are recommended to be built from non-combustible products (brick, concrete or lightweight concrete blocks) with overlapping with reinforced concrete slabs or corrugated board. Be sure to provide a number of ventilation holes.

How to make an adjoining extension to the house

The connection of an existing building with an extension is one of the most crucial moments of construction. If construction technologies are not observed, cracks will inevitably form in the junctions with opening up to large cracks. This is due to the difference between the acting loads and total absence or slowing down the settlement of the foundation of an old house.

Attachment of the attached part is carried out in the following two options:

1. With an expansion joint without direct contact between foundations, walls and roofs. It is recommended in the presence of problem soils (peat or clay). A gap is provided between the constructs, which is later filled with elastic heat and waterproofing materials. It is permissible to lay a board treated with several layers of bituminous mastic. The resulting seam is closed with decorative inserts. Be sure to eliminate the possibility of the formation of "snow bags" on the roof at the interface.
2. Inclusion of all constructs in joint work. The new foundation is arranged with occurrence at the same depth as the existing one. It is applied at the bases from the soils which are not subject to heaving. The contacting surface of the old one is cleaned of soil, a layer of waterproofing, and a notch is made with a perforator. Reinforcing bars are tightly hammered into the drilled holes with sealing of the holes. The resulting mortgages are connected by welding with the reinforcing cage of the extension foundation, and concreting is carried out with a thorough compaction of the mixture using internal vibrator. Brick walls are connected in the same way. The rods are placed every two rows in the seams of the new masonry. Wooden structures are tightened with steel bolts or studs with double-sided thread, complete with wide washers, nuts and locknuts. To pair the roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roofing and jointly fasten the rafters and beams of the house and the extension with the addition of new additional nodes and racks. In some cases, it may be necessary to build a common truss system or replacement with elements of greater length.

The second option is more complex, laborious and costly, although it cannot be guaranteed that the joint of the joints will not disperse over time.

Depending on the design, materials of the existing house and the purpose of the attached premises, the foundation type, material and thickness of the walls, the truss system and roofing materials for the new building are selected.

Before deciding how to build an extension, it is necessary to foresee all the possible nuances of future construction and to ensure that you protect yourself from possible administrative sanctions.

Advantages of an extension compared to a freestanding building

• Reducing the scope of work on the supply of engineering communications (electricity, water supply, heating, sewerage, ventilation).
• Less material consumption and cost of construction, since at least one existing wall is used.
• Rational use territory without cluttering with additional buildings.
• Additional insulation that prevents the penetration of cold air directly into the house with a decrease in heat loss.

Everything is changeable in this world, including our ideas about the reality around us. And what seemed yesterday still sufficient and satisfying all our ideas about housing, for example, today, according to our understanding or due to really changed circumstances, turns out to be insufficient, cramped, small in area. What can be done in this case, if it is not possible to build new house? You can advise one thing - to expand the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling by making an extension.

What will the extension provide?

The extension is expansion of space your house. What can be placed on these newly appeared square meters? There are a lot of options here. It could be:

• summer cuisine;
• winter Garden;
• library;
• living room and more.

It all depends from your needs or desire or need. But when you have already decided what you lack the most, it rises question about the material which you need to prepare in order to translate your plans into reality.

Usually, for the construction of an extension, materials are used that will not burden the attached segment, but will make it warm enough. Most often, the choice falls on timber and sandwich panels. However, if we are talking about an extension where a winter garden will be placed, then it should be taken into account that glass walls will create enough heavy structure, which will require strong foundation. A solid foundation is absolutely necessary even if the extension is brick, for example, to the same brick house.

Options for extensions to a residential building

There are many options for extensions, but the following are taken as the basis:

• side extension with a united roof;
• side extension with a separate roof;
• superstructure of the second and more floors;
• attic extension.

If we talk about the first type of extension, it should be noted that this most budget friendly option, since the roof of the main house remains the same, only slightly lengthened by the size of the extension. Main the building is being completed on one of its sides (if necessary, on both sides), then a passage breaks through between them and total area buildings increase evenly by area annex.

The second type of extension is identical to the first with the only difference that it has own roof, when it is not possible to arrange a common with the main house. This, of course, increases the consumption of material, volume necessary work, and, accordingly, the cost.

In the case of planning work on the addition of a second or more floors, it should first of all be borne in mind that not on every building you can make an add-on. In this case, we are talking primarily about the possibilities of the foundation of the house. If the initially possible multi-storey building was not planned, then its foundation can be not strong enough. Therefore, such a foundation simply cannot withstand a structure of several floors. In this case, you need to consult with specialists for the possibility strengthening the foundation in order to increase its strength. If the answer is no, it may be worth considering other types of extensions.

What material is the extension built from?

1. Timber extension.
2. Frame extension.
3. Brick outbuilding.
4. Foam block extension.

Timber extension

The beam is considered one of the best materials, used for these purposes. And it doesn’t matter what kind of timber it is - glued, rounded or planed - thanks to its parameters, work will be carried out in significantly shorter periods. Its advantages:

• produced in woodworking factories provides its sorting according to the quality of wood;
• exposed special treatment, which ensures the resistance of the beam to rotting and rules out defeat by a tree bug;
• heat treatment is possible, by means of which the timber is given required for customer color;
• any kind of timber - material eco-friendly capable of creating a natural ecological system in the house.

Beam - natural construction material, from which an extension can be made both to a wooden house, and a brick or block house, at least as a veranda or.

Frame extension

This a budget option extensions, as it does not require significant investments in consumables. In addition, it is possible to build it on the basis of a pre-prepared foundation with a minimum investment of time. Frame construction involves building an annex on the basis of a frame made of metal beams or wooden bars, erected around the perimeter and over the entire area of ​​​​each of its walls.

After completing the framework external and internal the plane of each wall is sheathed with special plates used in construction - chipboard or OSB - between which is laid any heater. As such, mineral wool, wood processing waste - sawdust, polystyrene foam and more can be used. Insulation from the street side should be mandatory pre-isolate from moisture.

In general, this type of construction easy to install and with a certain amount of effort, almost any householder can build it.

brick extension

The construction of this kind of addition to the main building, of course, requires certain knowledge and skills, but the extension will be more solid and durable. Several points are important here:

1. In order to preserve the style of the main building, an extension made of bricks, as a capital structure should be erected from the back of the house.
2. Since the brick structure has a significant weight, then foundation under such an annex should be lasting.
3. Expenses for obvious reasons will increase taking into account the cost of the brick, the cost of the foundation, as well as the internal plastering of the walls.
4. Special care will be required by the method of docking the main building and the extension.

Extension from foam blocks

Such an extension is no less durable than a brick one. Very profitable in many respects, modern building material - foam blocks:

• does not require erection so strong foundation, as in brick construction, since its average density is several times less compared to brick, which means it is lighter;
• for the same reason of low density, which means the presence of air pores, foam blocks retain heat better;
• due to the large dimensions of foam blocks compared to brick faster a building is being erected;
• financially, such an extension is much more profitable.

The only drawback of this material is the need to protect it from exposure to an aggressive external environment, usually for this purpose the walls are outside veneer with siding or covered with bricks.

We build an extension on our own

So, we have considered above types of outbuildings And what materials are they actually built from? We will now try to develop a common extension for all types algorithm for its construction, so that you can start working on your own if necessary.

How to correctly legalize an extension?

So, at the family council, it was decided to expand the living space and build an extension to the main building. However, so that later, upon completion of construction, it would not be necessary run through the courts and prove their ownership of this structure and the legality of its construction, you should act in accordance with established law in order. And that means you need a local government obtain permission for the construction of an extension and contact a licensed design organization to develop an appropriate project and determine the type of materials for work.

Here they will also make a decision on the water and electricity supply of the future facility. Next comes approval of the planned construction with supervisory authorities and the city's architecture department. After these events, you can start building. Upon their completion, the inspection is carried out by the supervisory authorities, only after their verdict on recognizing the object as meeting all standards, the owner receives building commissioning act into operation. And this means that you can register an extension at the Registration Chamber.

Do-it-yourself extension to the house is a common way to increase living space. In truth, we have it as a legacy of the times when the attitude of the state to individual housing construction was expressed by the principle "Saving the drowning is the work of the drowning themselves." Then in the areas of private development came across shacks, from the sight of which the sworn surrealists had nightmares.

However, the expansion of housing with extensions has always been everywhere and remains relevant to this day as a means of avoiding unbearable credit bondage for many years to come. There are ways, but they cannot afford a large family nest - construction costs relative to the size of the building grow according to a power law. However, build a house first minimum dimensions, if only it was possible to live, and then, as needed, make an extension to the house, and more, and more, it is quite possible for your own, budget ones. Moreover, a house overgrown with correctly completed extensions can be more convenient, more beautiful and better integrated into the environment than the original one, see fig.:

Please note that the construction of the extension is organizationally and technically more complicated than the main building. Why? Because the extension affects it in various ways, see below. In conditions when private housing is fully legalized and insured, its accident rate caused by an extension is unacceptable. That's why the cost of a square turnkey extension will be significantly more expensive than a new building, and the independent developer will face specific problems. About what, from which side to approach their solution, where to look for the optimum and how to build an extension correctly, and this article was written.

Organizational questions

Self-builders, of course, are primarily interested in - is it really possible to legalize an extension-squatter after the fact? If a residential building is already a legalized squatter building, then it is unrealistic. Self-construction is legalized according to the results of the operation of the building. Roughly speaking - is it worth it? Yes, and shish with him, let him stand further. But shish with him on shish with him already gives something like “yes, well, he’s on ...”, because. there are no reference initial parameters to determine the future fate of the structure. Samostroy is legalized once and for all, and the negative consequences of the extension may affect 10 years or more. That is, the owner, a quarrelsome and quarrelsome, has a formal reason for counterclaims: yeah, they legalized it wrong! Well, compensate! Which is also absolutely unrealistic, but you can drink blood and shake your nerves and people excitedly.

Note: for “complete self-construction” of a house with an extension, the only legalization option, and then one day - to delay the legalization of the main building until the extension is ready, and then legalize everything together.

As for old housing, typical or built according to an approved project, the possibility of legalizing an unauthorized extension to it depends on its type and design, see below. There are no extensions legalized automatically. Therefore, no matter how it was built old house, planning to attach, be prepared to follow the trail. epic:

• Geological surveys at the construction site and revision of the main structure;
• Obtaining permission from the owner of the land (if the plot under the house is rented);
• Obtaining permission from neighbors for construction;
• Designing an extension, independent or custom-made by specialists;
• Approval of the project by a licensed construction organization, firefighters, sanitation, electricians, public utilities. Most often combined with pp. 1 and 4 by order from a licensed construction company, it's cheaper and faster;
• Obtaining a building permit from the local municipality - at the architectural bureau, at the meeting of the village / village council. It is also possible to combine with paragraphs. 1, 4 and 5. This is called a turnkey project or a tie-in project;
• Construction;
• Acceptance of the building by representatives of the authority that issued the permit;
• Renewal of contracts with public utilities for increased living space;
• Re-registration of housing of increased living space in the cadastre and in the tax.

Let's hope that the further material of the article will help you understand the proposed projects, or even, if you have already built yourself and know how to use construction calculation programs, develop an extension project on your own. Specialists in licensed firms know their business: they will see that it is correctly drawn up, ask a couple of questions, and - wave.

Geology

Extension projects are developed based on the results of structural geology surveys and revisions of the existing building, even if the house is a typical one. On-site surveys are not cheap, but the extension will be reliable and will not reduce the reliability of the house if and only if, unlike the new building, the soil under it is homogeneous and its basic properties are as close as possible to those under the house. To decide whether it is possible to attach at all in a given place, soil samples are taken in advance with a garden drill from the same depth within 1-1.5 m in an envelope - in the corners and in the center. Sampling time is a really warm spring when the ground dries up from above; in middle latitudes - the beginning of May. There should be no rain for at least 3-4 days before sampling. Wells before selection are thoroughly cleaned from the soil crumbled from above. Each sample is immediately poured into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid; plastic bags are not good!

First, we evaluate the heaving, subsidence and bearing properties of the soil by visual inspection of the samples; under the house and the annex, they must match up to the class. For example, a house on dry, non-rocky and slightly subsiding sandy loam with a bearing capacity of less than normal 1.7 kgf / sq. see A 2 m from the wall, i.e. under the proposed extension - also non-porous, but completely non-collapsible cartilage or gravel with a bearing capacity obviously greater than normal. You can't attach. Or, let's say, instead of cartilage, dry silty sand, non-porous, but more subsidence and weakly bearing; The result is the same.

Note: attach to the house with your own hands, if the bearing capacity of the soil on the site is less than 1.7 kgf / sq. cm, as well as on soils of moderately, strongly and excessively heaving, subsidence and / or excessively watered by unauthorized construction without a project, it is categorically not recommended. At best, no one will ever legitimize such an extension in an honest way. At worst, irreparably damage the old housing.

If there are no visible differences in the samples that prevent construction, we evaluate the homogeneity of the basic properties of the soil, including its water content and plasticity, comprehensively, by relative humidity. For this:

1. We weigh an enameled steel vessel and record its weight Vp.
2. We pour a part of the sample into the dishes, immediately weigh it, record the initial gross weight Vn.
3. We heat the container with the sample over low heat until the soil crumbles into dust, i.e. will not dry completely.
4. We also immediately weigh the dishes with the sample, record the final gross weight Vk.
5. We calculate the initial and final weight of the net sample Рн = Вн – Вп; Pk \u003d Vk - Vp.
6. We calculate the relative humidity of the sample as H \u003d 1 - (Rc / Rn).

For example, the initial net weight of the sample is 440 g, and the final one is 365 g. Its relative humidity will be 1 - (365/440) = 1 - 0.83 = 0.17 or 17%. The H values ​​for all samples must match to within 10 percentage points (percentage of percent) if self-construction is assumed, or up to 20 percentage points if the project is developed by specialists and approved as expected. Let's say all samples gave moisture values ​​of 17%, 18.7%, 16%, 16.5% and 19%. Deviation is counted from least value and its allowable value will be 1.6% for self-construction, and 3.2% for construction under the project. In this case, self-construction is impossible, you need to order geology and develop a project.

Technical problems

The first thing to know here is there are no prefabricated outbuildings. The foundation of even the lightest extension must stand for at least a year before continuing construction, and the foundation of a massive residential extension - from 2 years, depending on the results of measurements of its horizontalness, see below. In general, an extension to a private house can affect its condition according to the following. factors:

• Soil mechanics - the old house on the foundation has already settled, and the extension is yet to be.
• Structural mechanics - an extension adjacent to the house or attached to it, will transfer to the structure of the existing building both loads during the settlement of the extension, and operational weight, wind and snow. The design of the extension (see below) must be coordinated in terms of structural mechanics not only with the expected loads, but also with the design of the main building.
• Thermal engineering - an extension at any stage of its construction should not violate the existing heat balance under the existing building.
• Technological - the details of the extension will have to be attached to the structure of the main building. Perhaps also make openings in it load-bearing walls. Both should not weaken the main structure.

Special mention should be made of heat engineering. A properly built house does not sway from year to year in accordance with seasonal ground movements, even on an unburied foundation. Under it, a warm pit is formed - an area where the temperature of the soil does not fall below zero. The blind area around the house expands the warm pit to the sides, which is useful in all cases and makes it much easier to pair the extension with the house. The extension, in turn, so that the house does not lose stability, should smoothly and gradually, without hesitation back and forth, pull the “tongue” of the warm pit under itself. This track is achieved. way:

1. The foundation of the extension is laid in the spring with the advent of real heat.
2. If the foundation of the extension is columnar or piled (see below), then immediately after laying it, a basement is built around the perimeter of the extension; it can be temporary, from fragments of slate, etc.
3. Also, along the perimeter of the extension, it is very, very desirable to immediately make a blind area on a sand and gravel cushion.
4. The foundation is covered with expanded clay flush with the plinth.
5. Above the foundation covered with insulation, a temporary shelter is constructed from precipitation with gentle slopes, for example. from a film on poles.
6. Construction continues no earlier than a year after laying the foundation.

Note: the indicated difficulties in geology and the design of the extension do not apply to country houses, because they are legally uninhabited. The rule still applies here - the problems of the developer are the problems of the developer. However, if dacha buildings are subject to a real estate tax, they will have to be converted into residential buildings. Consequence - suddenly you are going to move to live from the city to the country forever, now is the time to fully equip the country house for housing, incl. and outbuildings. Then the authorities will not go anywhere, they will have to legalize everything that is set up as it is, as long as it stands.

About materials

One of the factors precluding the legalization of any unauthorized construction is the non-compliance of the materials used with the requirements of SNiP. In the safety rules in any industry, the principle of the presumption of innocence does not apply, and later it is impossible to prove that you are not a camel, and you are not a camel. Therefore, take the materials for the extension from certified sellers and, in addition to the sales receipt, require a copy of the manufacturer's certificate for the material. An exception is a used red brick, if it was inspected and certified by a specialist in the project organization in the bill of materials for the project.

Types of extensions

Options for the execution of extensions to the house are given in Fig: non-residential (unheated and not insulated) open, non-residential closed, residential light and residential massive. Only electricity can be supplied to non-residential outbuildings from communications through a separate machine and RCD (residual current device). Only electricity is also supplied to a light residential extension, but it is already possible from the general house network. Heating - local stove or electric, for example, underfloor heating; in this case, you need a separate machine and RCD for heating. Any communications are brought into the massive residential extension without additional restrictions.

Communication with home

The next important factor in the classification of extensions is the degree of their connection with the main structure. According to the connectivity, the extensions are divided into:

• Remote - separated from the house at a distance of at least 3 deepenings deeper than the entire foundation, incl. pile. If, for example, the house is on a tape buried by 1.6 m, and the bath next to it is on piles driven in by 2.2 m, then it should be at least 6.6 m away from the house.
• Adjacent - do not meet the criterion of remoteness, but do not have a complete mechanical connection with the house, i.e. the foundation of the extension is separate, the walls are on it from all sides, incl. and facing the house. Most often, for the sake of saving land, materials and work, they are built close to the house and under a common roof. Self-building with subsequent legalization is possible if the foundation of the extension is selected and laid correctly, see above and below. All types of outbuildings, except for massive residential ones, can be carried out by the adjoining ones.
• Connected - having at least one common load-bearing wall and / or a common branch / section of the foundation tape with the house. A massive warm extension to the house is only connected to the main building. The legalization of squatting is unlikely; in fact it is a matter of your relationship with the local authorities and their attitude towards you.

Residential extensions to houses are most often built adjacent, and the missing communications are brought in after acceptance - who will check if the house is standing and people live in it? The tax and public utilities will still count their own for living space. The strip foundation of the adjacent extension is made with a deformation gap of 6-12 mm between it and the foundation of the house, filled with roofing material, glass chips and other insulators, but this is not optimal in this case. A gap of 30 mm between the adjacent walls of the house and the extension is caulked with pre-compressed sealing tape (PSUL) and covered with decorative overlays along the contour from the outside. It turns out it seems to be cheap and cheerful, especially if the extension is structurally light (see below), but there are no eternal sealants. In conditions middle lane After 10-12 years in the RF, dampness begins to accumulate in the gap between the adjacent walls, and it becomes the focus of the destruction of the whole house. Therefore, builders specializing in extensions give a 5-year guarantee for adjacent ones, as they say, right off the bat. Please note if you order a turnkey extension.

Note: PSUL must be used immediately, because, unpacked, it begins to swell irreversibly.

About remote extensions

The remote extension completely eliminates the specific organizational and technical difficulties of the extension, because. according to all laws and regulations, it is a separate structure. The foundation of the remote extension can be any, incl. not buried insulated, for example. , and the structure on it is prefabricated of any type. The remote extension is connected to the house by a covered insulated gallery on a columnar base or hanging on beams. Both are not considered a mechanical connection with the house.

A remote extension is especially beneficial if you need to attach a kitchen. Increased heat loss from the room in this case is insignificant, but the living rooms are reliably isolated from the kitchen fumes and high humidity. And most importantly, in private housing with a kitchen, they often block the furnace / boiler room or simply put / hang a heating boiler in the kitchen. Its removal from residential premises greatly reduces the possible dangers from autonomous heating; the probability of burning out when burning with solid fuel is practically reduced to nothing. In addition, the location of residential buildings and structures on the site is facilitated. local sewerage according to sanitary standards.

Note: in the West and in countries gravitating towards it, many are now fond of remote outbuildings with panoramic windows, even if there is plenty of space in the old house, see Fig.:

By default, a toilet, a bathroom, a matrimonial bedroom are transferred to such an aquarium; happens, and children's. Hanging curtains is considered a disregard for Euro-liberal values ​​and a penchant for totalitarianism, extremism, terrorism, separatism, and so on. In psychiatry, the mentality that gives rise to this tendency is called exhibitionism and is a symptom of a lush bouquet of various mental disorders.

Foundations

The influence of the extension on the main structure is most affected through the foundation, so special attention should be paid to its selection and laying in the ground. For adjoining outbuildings or wood or foam blocks optimal choice or . Adjacent extensions are not built of brick or monolithic. Both options will avoid direct contact of the base of the extension with the foundation of the house and greatly reduce the likelihood of moisture accumulation in the gap between the walls. The foundation grillage is made of timber from 200x200 for wooden buildings or welded steel from an I-beam or a channel with an upper shelf not narrower than the thickness of the wall.

The columnar foundation for the extension is suitable for non-heaving or slightly heaving, not subsiding and not excessively watered normally bearing soils. On all other soils, you need to choose a foundation on screw piles, and God forbid you think about driven, pressed and undermined piles - in this case, a violation of the stability of the main structure is guaranteed! The installation step of pillars / piles is typical, 1.2-1.7 m; foundation design is also typical.

Under "capital"

Under a massive residential extension, in most cases, you need a strip foundation of normal depth (at least 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth), securely connected to the base of the building. And again, God forbid you to match the foundations as shown on the left in the figure! This is permissible only on non-freezing dense non-subsidence soils!

In the conditions of the Russian Federation, the conjugation of the foundations of the house and the extension must be done with a tooth and anchor ties (in the center in the figure); the capacity of the anti-rock cushion under the foundation of the extension is 15 cm of gravel and 15 cm of sand. A trench for the foundation needs a trapezoidal profile with anti-rock filling sand and gravel mix, as for the brick foundation of the half-timbered extension (see below). The tooth is reinforced in 2 levels with steel reinforcement 14-16 mm.

The anchors connecting the foundations are made from the same reinforcement. The installation step is 30-40 cm horizontally and vertically. The laying of anchors in both foundations is 25-30 cm. Holes are drilled under the anchors in the old foundation, into which the anchors are immured. Anchors are connected with the reinforcing cage of the foundation of the extension by wire tying, in no case by welding! It is necessary to fill the foundation in such a way that before the outside temperature drops to +15 degrees and below, it gains at least 75% strength.

The foundation of the extension with a tooth is maintained until the continuation of construction from 2 years. In the first year, immediately after the tape has gained strength, its deviation from horizontal is measured in mm / m. The measurements are repeated after one year. The foundation is stable - we finally level it to the horizon and build further. No, we are waiting for another year. I didn’t “settle down” in 4 years - alas, the geology went wrong, the soil is too fluid. We urgently need to take measures to strengthen it, until the old house is led.

On non-rocky, well-bearing soils, it is permissible to build an adjacent or massive residential extension of foam / gas blocks on a shallow strip foundation (MZLF) or on a non-buried strip with an initial excess of the extension foundation. To calculate the necessary excess of the new tape, you need to know the coefficients of subsidence of the soil at the construction site, the available sand and gravel of the foundation cushion under the weight of the tape. General directories in this case are not help, because. the coefficients of subsidence of materials from different quarries may differ by a value that is too large for an attached foundation.

A small tape under the extension is first poured with a gap between it and the old foundation. At the ends of the reinforcement of the tape and anchors in the old foundation, elastic loops are bent (on the right in the figure) and welded. A year later, it is checked whether the foundation has stabilized (see above). If yes, the initial gap is filled, and after the concrete plug has gained strength, you can build further.

Structures and materials

Here you need to know, firstly, that it is possible to build extensions from SIP only on non-sagging, non-rocky soils of high bearing capacity. A SIP structure is a very rigid box. Settling faster than the old house, it will inevitably tear itself away from it.

Secondly, it is possible to make extensions from foam / gas blocks, but with finishing, external and internal, you will have to wait a year or two. This rule does not have a retroactive effect: it is impossible to mechanically attach any residential extensions to foam concrete houses; you can only attach adjacent ones. The fact is that the foam / aerated concrete in the extension during the draft will give many small non-through cracks. They are not dangerous and will not reduce structural strength, but they will have to be repaired before finishing. So that the foam / gas-block structure is not saturated with moisture during the exposure time, the extension box will need to be wrapped with a film.

Thirdly, in our time, a brick for an extension is not a suitable material; generally unsuitable for self-building. A heavy massive brick extension will most likely require strengthening the structure of the main house, unless it is an old merchant's house. meter walls. In RuNet there are calculators for calculating brick outbuildings; an example is given in fig. As you can see, in addition to strengthening the wall, which is already difficult, expensive and time-consuming, we also need a load-bearing partition in a certain place so that the settling extension does not tear the house in half. And what if the partition fell on the bedroom, or, worse, the kitchen or toilet?

Finally, the main structural material of the extension should not be stronger than that of the old house. Recommendations to build from the same material as the house are incorrect. If something went wrong and the extension sits more than allowed, it is better to disconnect it and let it collapse than risk the main housing.

To the cottage

Annex to country house for the above reasons, it can be made as light as possible, the so-called. console-support. Scheme easy an extension of this type is given in Fig. Its interface with the roof (see below) is absent, and the base is taken far from the house, and there is nothing to be afraid of its influence on the foundation. At the same time, the supports take a significant part of the load from the consoles, so this extension can even be attached to the wall of a frame house (any others are unacceptable) through backing boards from 150x40. The main thing is that the attachment points fall on the vertical edges of the frame. If the location of the frame elements is known, then it is possible and even better to fasten through the power (working) skin; enough to take off exterior finish and warming. The material of the supporting pillars is timber from 150x50; the rest is a board 150x40. Permissible extension of the roof consoles is 2.5 m for a frame house, 3.5 m for a timber house and 4.5 m for a brick house.

The corsol-supporting extension to the house can be the basis for a garage, terrace (veranda without a floor), greenhouse, etc. Cantilever-supporting, you can attach a veranda and even a "conditionally residential" (insulated) room. The floor in this case is made completely floating on a columnar base, i.e. the frame made of timber, on which the logs rest, is not connected either with the house or with the extension; a gap along the contour of 20-30 mm is covered with a plinth. Thus, 3 independent bases are obtained: the foundation of the house, a “checkerboard” of columns for the floor, and poles (or tape) under the console supports.

Fachwerk

Many people make light extensions to houses as frame ones due to the elasticity of this structure and its negligible influence on the main structure. However, if the extension affects the house, then it affects it too. The elastic limit of frame structures with working skin is not unlimited and drops sharply with an increase in the extension of the load-bearing elements of the frame extension. If it is possible to attach a porch to the house without problems, then the probability of destruction from settlement of an extension more than 3 m wide is high.

The best option for a wooden extension to any house would be half-timbered. The half-timbered technology was originally extension: it was born in medieval cities, constrained by defensive walls. There, each house was an extension to the neighboring ones. The difference between the fachwerk technology and the frame one is that there is no working sheathing, all the loads are taken over by the timber frame. Sheathing, external and internal, can be any.

An extension to a wooden half-timbered house made of timber from 200x200 on a strip foundation with a tooth (top left in the figure) practically does not additionally load the main structure. Its complete connection with the house, sheathing and final finishing is carried out a year or two after the construction of the frame with wood screws with a diameter of 8-12 mm in increments of 450-600 mm. Sealing along the interface contour - PSUL. A half-timbered extension to a stone house can be 2-story without jibs for panoramic glazing, top right. Fastening to the main structure - M8-M10 bolts in collet anchors with a step of 4 rows of masonry; laying anchors in the wall - 300 mm. The seal is the same.

Half-timbered technology is especially good if you need to attach a bathroom or bath to the house: many budget developers at first manage with a miniature combined bathroom or a corner shower in the kitchen. Well, if the soul is yearning to soak in the bath or take a steam bath to your heart's content, then a beam impregnated with a water repellent in addition to biocide and fire retardant is on sale. A simple unimpregnated timber can be made moisture resistant by impregnating with mining or, twice, with a water-polymer emulsion. In this case, sheathing and insulation are made from any suitable materials, without caring about its structural strength.

An example of the construction of a half-timbered frame of an extension to the house is given at the bottom left in fig. In the same place in the center and on the right are the constructions of the key units of the 2-story half-timbered house. An unpleasant feature of the half-timbered technology for lovers of "quick building" is that it is impossible to connect the frame elements with steel fasteners, as in a frame house with a working sheathing. At the crosshairs, the bars cut into half a tree, and at the ends they are connected into a spike, paw or swallow tail. Each connection is fastened with a dowel - tightly driven into the drilled hole with a through round hairpin made of hard, fine-grained wood with a diameter of approx. 30 mm.

Fachwerk foundations

Half-timbered buildings also need a special foundation: columnar and pile structures take loads too unevenly for half-timbered buildings, and the concrete tape is excessively rigid for it. The foundation for the half-timbered extension is laid brick or rubble (see the figure on the right). The latter is better: perfectly annealed red brick in moist acidic or alkaline soil begins to collapse within 40-50 years, although it lasts for centuries in neutral, not waterlogged soil, dry-molded silicate or face bricks are generally unsuitable for underground structures. The shelf life of a rubble foundation made of granite, diorite, gabbro and other dense heavy rocks of stone is practically unlimited.

Anchor bolts M12-M16 are immured into the foundation for the fachwerk for fixing the grillage from a bar from 200x200. The step of foundation anchors is 400-600 mm. Waterproofing grillage - 2-4 layers of roofing material or glass rubit. The lower trim of the half-timbered frame itself is attached to the grillage with dowels (you can use wood screws). After its installation, the frame is assembled on the wall of the house, and then the remaining elements are mounted. Thus, it is possible Maintenance half-timbered frame on an excessively sagging foundation by knocking out wedges, etc. This is a unique opportunity for half-timbered technology, although it is still necessary to withstand the foundation for a year before continuing construction.

Fachwerk and shields

Fachwerk technology is laborious and requires a lot of expensive material. If a one-story extension to a house from a bar is supposed, incl. warm residential, it is possible to get by with a simplified frame-panel technology, which was born at the same time. In this case, the timber frame is built from the upper and lower straps with corner posts; spans are filled with boards on a plank frame, which are attached to the main frame with wood screws, and are fastened together with steel plates from 80x40x4.

The design of the shield frame of the combined frame extension from boards from 120x40 is given in fig. on right. The height of the sections can be increased up to 900-100 mm according to the height of the ceiling; if it is higher than 3 m, the number of sections increases. Window and door sections are made without jibs; they should not adjoin each other closely and to the corners, i.e. on both sides of the frame with an opening there should be frames with jibs. If the inner lining is sheet sufficiently strong, rigid and elastic (plywood from 16 mm, OSB), then internal jibs (shown by filling in the figure) can be dispensed with.

Roof connection

Their own weight and climatic loads on the roof tend to flatten it and distribute it to the sides, for which purpose cross braces - crossbars are provided in roof trusses. The asymmetry of vertical loads, caused by the presence of an extension on the side, disrupts the entire operation of the roof and can lead to its accident rate. The scheme of pairing the roofs of a house and an extension, which is common in Runet (top left in the figure), not only requires excess material, but also does not eliminate the asymmetry of the load on the old roof. Moreover, excess wind loads are transferred to the most vulnerable part of the existing roof - its ridge assembly. It is also unacceptable, for the sake of interfacing with an extension, to distort the old truss structure (top right), even if the house has a Siberian attic that strengthens the roof.

The correct design of the interface between the roofs of the house and the side extension is given at the bottom left in fig. The highlight here is in the beveled snow supports: from an additional load of any kind, they kind of push the wings of the old roof inward, preventing them from spreading. Further, due to the rigidity of the resulting power triangles (filled in red), a significant part of the additional loads is transferred to the Mauerlat (rafter) of the extension, which can be calculated in advance for them, and the excess loads on the Mauerlat of the old roof do not exceed the allowable value.

Note: if the extension is made of foam / aerated concrete that does not hold mortgages well, then the Mauerlat of the extension must be made in accordance with all the rules for building houses from foam concrete, and the Mauerlat anchors must be laid into the wall for 3-4 rows of masonry.

About roofing

When building a side extension to the house, the old roofing must be dismantled (lower right in the figure above) and the roof must be re-roofed. Match the roofs of the house and extensions as shown in fig. right, you can't. The golden rule of roofing is that overlying decking must overlap those below to prevent water from entering. And to do as shown there - no matter how wise with the seal, valleys, visors, gutters, the roof will leak.

without roofing

You can greatly simplify complex and responsible roofing work or even get rid of them if you build an extension from the pediment (on the left in the figure). The front extension is often better coordinated with the house in terms of layout and architecture, and in a narrow area this is often an uncontested option.

However, when building an extension from the front, another problem arises: a passage into it, for which you will have to make an opening in the load-bearing wall. In frame houses, this is completely unacceptable. For a lumber, a calculation is needed: will the house move apart? In any case, at least 3-4 lower crowns must be left intact in the wall, counting from the grillage; perhaps the passage to the annex will turn out to be in the threshold. In a frame-shield wall, you can choose to fill any of the shields without touching the frame trim, as long as there are shields with jibs on both sides. The scheme of the device of the doorway in the main brick wall is given on the right in fig. It is carried out in general in the next. order:

1. on both sides of the wall, grooves are made for a steel reinforcement box;
2. embedded parts of the front and rear parts of the box are installed in place and welded into frames;
3. the opening is selected gradually and alternately on both sides of the wall, carefully, without strong beat and pressure;
4. at the ends of the opening, anchor rods are immured under the transverse screeds;
5. couplers are welded to anchors and frames of boxes.

Since doorways in stone load-bearing walls are a responsible matter, watch another video on how to make an opening in a brick wall:

Video: opening in a brick wall for access to the extension

and in no way possible:

Last note: in load-bearing walls made of foam / aerated concrete, it is impossible to make an opening for passage into a residential attached extension in addition to the original calculated ones. If there is no significant additional load on the wall (exit to the outside, to a non-residential or residential adjacent extension), upper horizontal mortgages 1.75-1.9 m long are needed. Alas.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of sitting people, sewerage in the house, or the need to close front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Extra room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.

Foundation for an extension

The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about the construction of the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

• First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.

• Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
• The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
• After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
• The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
• Further along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should close not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
• A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
• Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundation

• After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. waterproofing film they are left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
• Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

• After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
• After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
• Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and ruberoid.

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.

Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Column Foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

• Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

• Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
• If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to solidify, do brickwork.
• If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
• Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
• The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
• After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
• In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Extension floor base device

If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

• To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
• At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.

• Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or an open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
• Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

• Floor beams are wooden bars of a sufficiently large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

• The beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing material substrate, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- with the help of through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.

• They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls can be built on a ready-made strip foundation, while a columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete lintels will have to be made between the pillars.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the ceiling that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

• For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.

• Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) with outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.

• The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall with the help of reliable metal corners or anchors.
• The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to the house

brick walls

• Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
• If a brick extension is arranged for wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from the inside of the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

• Before starting masonry, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
• Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.

Covering the extension and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but basically a single-sided option is chosen, which is worth considering.

• This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation does not linger on the surface in winter, otherwise they can simply damage it.
• Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
• The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the truss system and unify the overall cover.
• It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it will soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
• If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
• If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
• When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

• Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
• It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

• Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
• Between the lag tightly laid mineral wool, pour expanded clay or slag.

• From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
• A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool laid between logs fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
• One of the "warm floor" systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
• Infrared film laid on a thin thermal reflective substrate, and closed with a decorative coating;
• dry screed and gypsum fiber plates.

When the floors are insulated, you can proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

• For internal insulation walls use mineral wool produced in mats. It is convenient to lay them between the bars of the frame. This work is simple and is done quickly enough.
• When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with brackets.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or GVL - there are a lot of options, there are plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out from the outside, but they do it differently.

Warming, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in frame building, fixing the bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in one's abilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather difficult work to qualified craftsmen.