The simplest heat gun in the garage with your own hands is not difficult. Required to work at least Supplies and tools. The main thing is to choose the right desired option fuel - gas, electric or diesel fuel.
The gas gun can be used not only as a heater, but also as a powerful fan heater for drying basements and as a means to speed up construction and repair work especially in rainy, cool weather.
The name "gun" is due appearance device. He "shoots" a stream of warm air, which is forced by a fan. Air heating comes from an incandescent coil, which can be heated using different power sources.
If it is better to buy an infrared and “water” heat gun in a store, then a heating device that runs on electricity, gas or diesel fuel can be made with your own hands.
DIY gas gun for the garage
It is possible to manufacture a gas gun of indirect heating of the spiral and a variant with open heating of the garage. gas gun ideally dries walls and is indispensable for construction work and in garages with high humidity.
Let's consider step by step how to make the simplest open-heated gun that runs on a gas cylinder, it's easier to make it yourself:
- the following materials will be needed - for the case we select a refractory material ( steel pipe with thick walls the best solution for the body), a burner from a gas boiler, a fan (it is necessary that the diameter of the fan matches the diameter of the body pipe), a gas cylinder, a gas supply hose with a reducer;
- in the metal pipe of the body (length, one and a half meters, diameter - up to 18 cm), holes must be drilled on both sides for attaching the gas supply hose and for the outlet of the hot air stream. We drill holes, retreating from the edge - 2 - 3 cm, the diameter for the gas supply inlet is according to the size of the hose connector, the diameter of the hole for the outlet pipe is 5 cm;
- combustion chamber - built into the body, it is a metal pipe of a smaller diameter. They are welded to it with outside 4 to 8 metal plate ribs that increase heat transfer. Additionally, the plates firmly fix the combustion chamber inside the body of the heat gun. The dimensions of the combustion chamber, together with the fins and plates, are according to the diameter of the housing pipe, this core must freely enter the housing;
- the combustion chamber will need to be firmly welded to the body by welding, it should protrude beyond both edges of the large pipe;
- now you need to hermetically close the gap that has formed between the combustion chamber and the pipe of the metal case, for this you need to cut a metal circle of the desired diameter and width;
- a burner from an old gas boiler or just a shower head must be installed in the combustion chamber, a hose from a gas cylinder must be connected to it. Masters advise mounting the burner on a thin curved metal tube, which must be welded from the inside of the combustion chamber;
- We fasten the fan with self-tapping screws to a rectangular flange (it is easier to fasten than a round one), which we fix by welding to the housing, from the side opposite to the combustion chamber
Important after that. As the gas gun is assembled, check the tightness of all fasteners and fasteners, especially the connection of the gas supply hose.
It is easier and clearer to see the manufacturing process of such a gun in detailed video instructions
The manufacturing process of an inexpensive electric heat gun
The simplest do-it-yourself heat gun is electric, in which the spiral is heated by electricity, and warm air is supplied to the room with the help of a fan. Compared to gas and diesel fuel guns, an electric heater does not give a direct open flame, therefore it is the safest.
The only downside is the high power consumption. Therefore, it is convenient to use electric guns in the garage to quickly warm up the room, but not as a permanent heating in the winter.
The process of assembling a simple electric heater for the garage:
- for the case we take a piece of metal or asbestos thick-walled pipe (length 1 - 1.5 meters, diameter from 18 to 25 cm);
- a heating element of 1 or 2 kW is used as a heating element, the number of heating elements is selected depending on the area of the garage. To warm up 20 square meters, one heating element for 1 kW and one for 2 kW is enough; it will be possible to regulate the intensity of heating the room.
Advice. It is better to make an old heating element from an electric stove or boiler shorter by half, this will help reduce resistance and increase the power of the heater.
- you also need a powerful fan and a cable for three cores (section at least 2.5);
- fasten inside the body a heating element, taking into account the free space for installing the fan;
- connect the heating element to the cable. It is important not to forget to make grounding;
- on the other side of the pipe we mount a fan, an ordinary household fan is suitable for the bathroom, but you can also take a more powerful one. The main rule is that the rotation of the fan wings must be free in order to be higher efficiency;
- the connection of the fan and heating elements to the network must be separate.
The disadvantage of an electric heat gun is that it quickly burns oxygen and dries out the air. Such garage heating needs a high-quality exhaust or natural ventilation premises.
The video story will tell in detail how to make a simple heat gun without using heating elements.
Heat gun on diesel fuel
For a garage without connection to the central power supply, Alternative option heating - a homemade heat gun that runs on diesel fuel. Such garage heating is best done with direct heating of the air flow, and for a remote construction site or warehouse, an indirect air heating option is suitable.
It is important to remember that such heaters must be used in the garage in compliance with safety measures, since diesel fuel is burned in the combustion chamber, and the fan supplies warm air to the room. It turns out that the air flow through an open flame enters the room and everything harmful products DT combustion goes directly to the garage.
How to make a heat gun on a diesel engine quickly with your own hands:
- we need a metal tank (sealed), from which we will make a combustion chamber for diesel fuel;
- we make the outer case from a thick-walled metal pipe;
- in the combustion chamber we have tubes made of refractory materials;
- still need a nozzle for supplying diesel fuel, a pump or a fan;
- we install a conventional household fan in the pipe;
- the diesel fuel tank should be located away from the hot body - a distance of a meter, one and a half, it is desirable to protect the tank with thermal insulation;
- combustion chamber (pipe of smaller diameter), mounted inside the gun body;
- a nozzle for fuel supply must be installed in the chamber (connection is a metal refractory tube);
- a spark to ignite fuel - from the starter of any car;
- we connect the pump or compressor to the fuel tank and nozzle;
- a protective reflective screen must be installed at the hot air outlet.
In the video plot, you can see the principle of operation of the simplest diesel burner. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVXhEj82gVA
Of all the homemade garage heat guns, the diesel-fueled heater is the most dangerous.
Rules for using a heat gun in the garage
When heating a garage with homemade heaters, especially with an open flame, it is important to observe fire safety measures:
- be sure to install a reliable ventilation system in the garage, preferably forced;
- the open flame of the heat exchanger must be covered with a heat-reflecting protective screen;
- fuel containers should be located as far as possible from the operating heater;
- do not leave a working appliance in the garage overnight - this is dangerous;
- the distance from the gas tank of the car to the gun should be no less than one and a half meters.
It is reasonable to use homemade heat guns for quick short-term heating of the room and do not leave them unattended for more than five minutes, since the risk of fire when using such heaters is very high.
A heat gun seems to many ordinary people an exotic device, but in fact this type of heater is already very common. Small models are used in everyday life, powerful - in production. If you are still sure that the heat gun is needed only for installation stretch ceiling, from this article you will learn why else it can be useful for you, how to distinguish between types of guns and what are the specifics of making them yourself.
Purpose and principle of operation of the heat gun
A heat gun is, in fact, a powerful fan heater that can heat rooms quickly and for a long time. big size. Most often, the device looks like a thick short pipe on the base, which evokes associations with a gun. The heat source can be stationary or mobile (in a lightweight version for transfer or on a base with wheels).
Most heat guns do look like a cannon, but many can be cubic.
Heat guns are needed for:
- episodic rapid heating of premises (for example, construction sites for quick drying of plaster, grain / vegetable stores to reduce the moisture content of products);
- rapid heating of the room to perform specific work (for example, installation or repair of a stretch ceiling);
- performance of technological operations in industrial buildings;
- seasonal heating of non-residential premises not connected to a heating main (for example, greenhouses, hangars, warehouses);
- permanent or temporary long-term heating of residential premises that cannot be connected to other heat sources (for example, cottages and country cottages).
In everyday life, low-power heat guns help to warm a car frozen in a parking lot, dry the heating during spring floods, ensure a comfortable temperature in the gazebo in late autumn, etc.
In the workshop, a heat gun will provide comfortable conditions for the worker and optimal storage conditions for the machine.
The principle of operation of heat guns is practically indistinguishable from the way a conventional fan heater works. Thanks to the heat generator (heater, spiral or burning fuel), it heats the air inside the case and distributes this heated air throughout the room due to the fan.
Heat guns with a cylindrical body are long-range, while square ones are better suited for zone heating.
Types of heat guns
Heat guns are classified according to the type of heater used. In general, there are electric (work when connected to the mains) and burner (consume the energy of combustible fuel) appliances. But when buying, a detailed classification will help you more. So, electric ones can be heating elements, infrared or spiral ones, and burners can be gasoline, diesel, gas or run on combined fuel. For them, a clear purpose is usually not indicated, but for your own safety it is important to understand that burner heat guns are better suited for non-residential premises, and electric ones for occasional work. A comparison table will help you understand this issue in more detail.
Table: comparison of heat guns with different heating methods
| Type of heat gun | Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|---|
| Electric (heater, spiral, ceramic heater) | Suitable for living rooms and adjacent premises, as it does not emit harmful gases. An excellent mobile option, because it weighs little (does not require a thick-walled case) and can be connected in any room with an outlet. It does not burn oxygen, so it does not require ventilation during operation. Models with ceramic heating elements are the safest for users and do not impair air quality. Products do not require constant monitoring or replenishment of fuel reserves, they are able to work for a long time and evenly. Electric guns are the quietest, only the fan emits noise. | The heating element and the spiral dry the air, so in places permanent residence humidifier required. During operation, an unpleasant odor is emitted due to dust and aerosols entering the heating elements. The power and efficiency of the device is less than that of burner analogues. Models with a coiled heater require careful handling as they get very hot. If the appliance is operated without the protective grid, burns may occur. The most powerful varieties require connection to three-phase network, therefore, they can be used either at enterprises or in specially equipped workshops. |
| Gas | It is capable of receiving a coolant both from a main (stationary version) and from a cylinder (mobile version). The cylinder is easy to fill at any gas station, the device works with both propane and butane (for comparison, in cars gas installations designed for a specific type of fuel). The device consumes electricity economically, since it is only needed for the operation of the fan. Gas models are the most efficient of the liquid fuel models, the fuel is almost 100% used. Devices are considered optimal in terms of price / quality ratio, but only when used in non-residential premises. | Gas combustion products can enter the room, but they are safer than when using other liquid fuels. The heat gun may not work correctly, or not work at all, if the power of the device does not match the pressure in the main pipe / cylinder. The device must not be used without supervision. The harder the frost, the longer it takes to desired mode gas gun. |
| Diesel, gasoline | The most powerful type of warm air generators (10–100 kW) with the highest possible heating temperature. Manufacturers offer a wide range the lineup devices with closed and open combustion chambers and even varieties that emit infrared radiation. Possible use different types liquid fuels, including solariums. It is not afraid of water ingress (unlike electrical analogues), installation under a canopy or in the open air is possible. | Puts forward increased requirements for ventilation of the room due to the consumption of oxygen. It smells unpleasant and makes noise during operation, therefore it is only suitable for construction sites and other premises where people do not spend much time. |
| oily | The devices are similar to liquid fuel heat guns, only they use oil in the combustion chamber, including used grease industrial equipment. They allow useful disposal of materials that have become unusable, therefore they are most in demand at plants and factories, agricultural enterprises. | Does not work with high viscosity oil (greater than 90 SAE) or transformer cooling oil. It consumes oxygen, emits a lot of harmful gases and soot, which makes it almost impossible to use direct heating models. |
| Water (heater) | A heater (a water heating battery with a fan) is sometimes called a water heat gun. Such models are installed permanently, as they require connection to the water heating of the house. Heaters do not emit harmful gases, consume very little electricity, are not capable of causing burns or cause a fire, suitable for installation in living rooms. In application, they are much more efficient than conventional radiators, since the fan increases the intensity and speed of heat transfer. | Cannot be installed in a house where there is no centralized supply hot water(for example, in the country). There are no mobile models. |
| infrared | Infrared heat guns are powered by electricity, but differ from the models described above in the way heat is distributed. If in other varieties the coolant is the air pumped by the fan, then the infrared gun emits thermal radiation, which heats the objects in the room. IR rays are completely safe, in the same way heat is emitted by a conventional radiator. IR guns do not need a fan, so they are quieter than others. The principle of operation of infrared heat guns makes them as efficient as possible; almost no energy is lost at the stage of heat transfer to the object. Since the heating from an IR heat gun is independent of air movement, it can be used outdoors (for example, stage heating during winter performances) and in rooms that need increased ventilation (for example, chemical laboratories and carpentry workshops). IR guns are simple in design and light in weight, they are very mobile. | Only those objects that fall within the range of the emitter are heated; it will be cold in the blind zone of the device. Therefore, in a large room, it may be necessary to install several devices. |
It is possible to permanently install a heat gun in a room without the consent of the regulatory authorities only if the device is electric or diesel. Gas models are classified as explosive, therefore their operation is possible only after the permission of the security control service.
Since burner heat guns are dangerous due to the products of combustion of fuel, safer varieties of such devices have appeared on the market - guns of indirect heating.
As can be seen from the diagram, the main difference in design is the presence of a chimney
As already mentioned, burner or liquid fuel heaters are divided into:
- direct heating guns are devices in which heated air is mixed with combustion products and distributed throughout the room. During operation, carbon monoxide is released, therefore, in no case should they be used not only in living rooms, but also in places of long-term congestion of people (for example, a work shop at an enterprise). In the room where the direct heating heat gun is located, there must be powerful ventilation, it is needed both to remove harmful gases and to improve the operation of the gun itself (oxygen is burned during combustion, you need to adjust a new one). Direct fired guns are often used in garages because they are very fuel efficient, with over 99% efficiency.
- guns of indirect heating are supplied with the heat exchanger. This means that the mixture of air and harmful gases heated in the burner transfers heat to the air in the room without mixing with it. In this case, combustion products enter the chimney, which eliminates the danger to people in the room. A heat gun of this design can be installed at an enterprise or in a garage without powerful ventilation. But the efficiency of such devices is significantly lower, since part of the heat inevitably goes into the pipe.
Having a desire and some experience in repairing heating devices, you can build a heat gun of any kind: electric, liquid fuel, water. Difficulties can arise only with infrared, since it uses more complex components.
If you plan to put a direct heat gun in your garage, use only a gas or biodiesel model and be sure to turn on the ventilation. The products of combustion of other types of fuel are more dangerous and will inevitably have a harmful effect on health.
What elements does a heat gun consist of?
The heating device is assembled from such components as:
- a body, which is a short tube of large diameter, sometimes a cube or a prism. The body walls are often thick-walled (in electric models, especially mobile ones, the body wall is thinner, in burners it is thicker). The material is metal, fire-resistant plastic or ceramic;
- heating element (heater, spiral, or burner). The power, efficiency and safety of the device depend on it;
- fan for efficient air exchange. It is much more powerful than a household one, so it will not work to convert an ordinary fan heater into a heat gun, even with a good heating element, the efficiency of such a homemade product will be lower than expected;
- automation with wires and buttons for on, off, power adjustment. The control unit must be reliable, and the conductors must be thick enough, otherwise the device will quickly fail;
- a protective metal grill that prevents the user from touching the heating element. It also prevents large combustible objects from entering the instrument.
This structure is typical only for electric heat guns with a spiral
A good heat gun must have a thermostat - a heat limiter that can control the current temperature and turn the device on / off in time. It helps to make more efficient use of the device and electricity / coolant, as well as extend the life of the device itself. The absence of a temperature limiter can cause a fire in a warehouse or the death of plants in a greenhouse or conservatory.
Calculation of the power of the device
In order for the gun to be as efficient as possible in your room, you first need to calculate the minimum power of the device using the formula.
Qt=V×∆T×K/860, where
- Qt - the minimum power of the heater in kW / h;
- V - the volume of the heated room in m 3;
- ∆T is the difference between the minimum outdoor temperature and the required indoor temperature in °C;
- K - heat loss coefficient:
- 3.0 - 4.0 if the building is not thermally insulated;
- 2.0–2.9 if there is ineffective thermal insulation;
- 1.0–1.9 with medium-level thermal insulation (walls 2 bricks thick, few windows, simple roof without openings);
- 0.6–0.9 if the thermal insulation is good (the walls are insulated, there is a contour seal of doors and windows, double-glazed windows).
If your premises are not industrial (the ceiling height is not higher than 3 m), you can use the data from the table.
Table: dependence of the required gun power on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room
| Heat gun power, kW | The volume of the premises in the new house, m 3 | The volume of the premises in the old building, m 3 | The area of a modern greenhouse with heat-insulated glass, m 2 | Area of a glass greenhouse without thermal insulation, m 2 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | 70–150 | 60–110 | 35 | 18 |
| 10 | 150–300 | 130–220 | 70 | 37 |
| 20 | 320–600 | 240–440 | 140 | 74 |
| 30 | 650–1000 | 460–650 | 210 | 110 |
| 40 | 1050–1300 | 650–890 | 300 | 150 |
| 50 | 1350–1600 | 900–1100 | 370 | 180 |
| 60 | 1650–2000 | 1150–1350 | 440 | 220 |
| 75 | 2100–2500 | 1400–1650 | 550 | 280 |
| 100 | 2600–3300 | 1700–2200 | 740 | 370 |
| 125 | 3400–4100 | 2300–2700 | 920 | 460 |
An excessively powerful heat gun in a small room can cause a fire. Use appliances of suitable power (or with a regulator) and/or do not leave them unattended.
DIY options
The heat gun is a powerful device that requires responsible handling. If you did not have experience in repairing such products, it is better to start manufacturing with electric models. They are simpler and safer to use, especially if you connect the device to the network through an RCD. In the worst case, the homemade product will not work, or any of its elements will become unusable. But starting a fire or an explosion, which often happens when using liquid-fuel homemade guns, is quite difficult with an electric model.
For the first few days, do not leave your homemade heat gun running unattended. Even if you have a lot of experience in creating such devices, it is better to be safe than to correct the consequences of an accidental error.
How to make an electric heat gun
The design of the heat gun can be divided into mechanical and electrical parts.
The design of the electric heat gun is simple and clear, which is optimal for beginners.
To collect mechanics you will need:
- a thin-walled pipe of a suitable diameter for the body or tin, from which the body of the desired size can be bent;
- heating heating element of the calculated power or several heating elements with a suitable total power;
- fan (motor with an impeller assembly) with a power corresponding to the selected heating elements;
- ready-made support base, legs or fittings from which the support can be welded;
- a tube with fasteners that acts as a carrying handle (optional);
- protective grilles (the diameter must correspond to the cross section of the body) or wire from which you can weave the grill.
To save money, you can use parts from old equipment, you just need to make sure that the part is working and specify its power.
Do not use asbestos-cement pipes as the body of an electric heat gun, they often explode with strong heat. The safest analog - ceramic pipe for the chimney.
The electric unit of the heat gun will be:
- switches for changing the operating mode of the device (medium heating power, full heating, fan only);
- thermal limiter that prevents overheating of the device (will not allow breakage and fire);
- a thermostat that helps control the degree of heating of the air;
- wires for connecting parts (check the cross section when buying, if you can’t pick it up yourself);
- cords with plugs for 220 V (2 pcs., always with grounding).
Important: the fan motor of the heat gun and its heating element are connected to the mains separately.
Instructions for making an electric heat gun with your own hands:
- Fasten the heating element in the front of the housing and connect the power cable to the heating element.
Round dry heating element for a fan heater with several spirals - best option for homemade heat gun
- In the back of the case, fix the fan with the motor and also connect the wires to them, bring all the wires out of the case.
If your gun is low-powered, a fan from a Soviet vacuum cleaner will do.
- Assemble the electrical control box following the diagram above. Protect the body control unit (you can take a food container) and bring the power button out.
Carefully control the quality of each connection
- Install protective grilles on the front and rear ends of the case. Install the case on the legs or base.
Grilles from an old fan without plastic parts will fit as protective grilles for a heat gun
After assembly, it is imperative to test the device. It is desirable that the sockets that you use are connected through an RCD. So in case of erroneous assembly of nodes, the power will turn off automatically. If the device works flawlessly, you can safely start using it.
Video: homemade electric heat gun
To assemble an electric heat gun, you do not need specialized tools, a screwdriver with a bat and a drill is enough. But the creation of a gas analogue is already more difficult, you will definitely need a good welding machine.
Production of a gas heat gun
If you decide to build a gas gun with your own hands, it is better to make an indirect heating device. Its design is not much more complicated, but it is safer and more pleasant to use.
If it is necessary to make a direct heating gas gun, pipe 5 is not welded, and the front of the body is closed with a grate
For the manufacture of a gas heat gun, the following parts are needed:
- gas burner assembly;
- thick-walled metal pipe of small diameter (for example, 8 cm). After welding to the burner, they form a gas combustion chamber;
- a thick-walled metal pipe of a larger diameter (for example, 18 cm), which will become the body of the heat exchanger;
- a fan for supplying air to the combustion chamber;
- remote gas ignition device;
- reducer (reduces gas pressure when fuel is supplied from a cylinder / line to the combustion chamber);
- a metal pipe with a diameter of 8–10 cm for the removal of combustion products. Its length depends on the distance of the pipe on the body from the ventilation hole in the wall of the room;
- frame to accommodate the structure.
In order for the burner to become suitable for use in a cannon, its hole should be increased to 5 mm in diameter and the jet (fuel supply hole) should be expanded to 2 mm in diameter.
Let's get to work:
- Weld a gas exhaust pipe to the gun body, drill a hole for igniting the fuel, install grates and weld the legs.
If the seam is of insufficient quality, the combustion products of the fuel will enter the room
- Add an extension pipe to the burner and insert its end into the heat exchanger pipe, fix the position with metal clamps. You can use 1-2 ready-made ceramic burners, for which holes should be made in the body.
Ready-made burners are more reliable than homemade ones
- Install a fan, protective grilles in the case, connect the fan power cord.
The fan is another node that can be taken ready for insurance
The finished device can be connected to a cylinder with liquefied propane or other combustible gas through a reducer / regulating valve.
Important: carefully seal the connections of the gas supply pipes, and be sure to install a remote ignition device. If the rules are not followed, the heating installation may explode.
Video: do-it-yourself indirect gas heat gun
Production of a diesel or gasoline heat gun
A cannon that works by burning a solarium (diesel oil) or another type of diesel fuel differs from an electric one by the presence of a fuel tank. Moreover, the larger the tank, the longer the gun can work without refueling.
Due to the large fuel tank, the diesel gun is heavier than the gas gun and takes up more space.
To make a diesel-type heat gun, you will need:
- a fuel tank made of a material with low thermal conductivity or metal with a layer of heat insulator and a protective casing. If an unsuitable material is selected, the fuel will be heated during the operation of the gun and there will be a risk of fire and explosion;
- thick-walled pipe or metal tank for the main body of the gun;
- thick-walled pipe of smaller diameter for the combustion chamber. It should be freely placed in the main body so that there is space between the outer walls of the combustion chamber and the inner walls of the body for the removal of warm air. The optimal ratio of pipe diameters is 1:2;
- an electric motor of suitable power that can fit in the housing;
- fan for connection to the electric motor. The impeller diameter must be at least 1–2 cm smaller than the internal diameter of the casing tube;
- fuel pump, filter and fuel injector;
- a burner with a spark plug for igniting fuel;
- air pump, inlet and outlet filters for air distribution system;
- protective grilles for the main body.
The above parts should be connected to each other as shown in the picture. It is important to observe the distances between the fuel tank and the housing, to monitor the tightness of all chambers and the quality of the connection of electrical components. But if you have never done such work, the design can turn out to be extremely dangerous. Therefore, it is worth using a simplified scheme:
- Take the stove from the old Zaporozhets or its equivalent (a heater for a car that runs on liquid fuel) and install it on the base or legs.
When buying a stove, be sure to check the presence of wires and automation
- Connect the power cable to the device through a transformer from 12 V to 220 V, use a plug and socket with grounding. If you have an unnecessary car battery or the garage is not connected to the mains, connect the device to the battery.
If you make an additional shelf for the battery in the base, the device will be more compact
As a result, you will get a mobile liquid fuel heat gun, in which most of the critical components are assembled at the factory, and such devices are much more durable and safer than home-made ones.
Video: do-it-yourself diesel heat gun assembly
Wood burning heat gun
A solid fuel heat gun is a stationary wood-burning heating boiler, only it does not heat water, but the air in the room. In fact, this is an ordinary potbelly stove that almost every garage owner can do. It does not require a complex case or many electronic components. The only difference is in the additional pipe to which the fan is connected. Therefore, if you figured out how to make an electric or liquid fuel heat gun, a wood-burning one will definitely not be a problem.
If you are not sure what you can find quality materials and components, or doubt your own skills as a welder and electrician, seek help from a more experienced person, order from a professional or buy finished structure. So you ensure your own safety and can use a truly reliable device.
Features of operation and care
If you want the device to serve as long as possible, you must:
- use only high-quality fuel (gas, diesel, gasoline);
- avoid strong voltage drops in the mains (if they happen often in your region, you should connect the gun through an RCD - a residual current device);
- do not allow water to get on the electric heat gun, and do not use it in rooms with high humidity (over 93%);
- protect the device from shocks, falls and mechanical loads;
- place the device further than 0.5 m from flammable things, including fabrics and furniture;
- withstand a period of addiction (from 2 hours) after transporting the device in the cold (below 0 ° C);
- Regularly clean the protective grilles and housing.
It is unacceptable to cover a working heat gun, put it in a box, or otherwise interfere with the normal air circulation in the device.
Clear indications for repair:
- visually noticeable damage to the body, tubes, wires;
- sparking at the points of connection of wires;
- repeated operation of the protective relay.
Please note: causes and remedies are valid for electric heat guns
If you purchased a heat gun, you can get more detailed information about its operation from the warranty card or the booklet attached by the manufacturer. Those who assembled the device on their own can familiarize themselves with the rules by searching the net for instructions for a similar model.
As you can see, with due attention and diligence, you can build a heat gun that will provide you with comfort in any unheated room.
In connection with the need to heat buildings and premises in which, for some reason, there is no centralized heating or simply there is no way to organize it, various kinds of mobile heaters are often used. Among them, there are many homemade devices. 
If you need a compact, homemade and inexpensive heating device, one of the best options, will be the manufacture of gas heating installations.
Main advantages
It is a do-it-yourself gas heat gun that can solve all issues of heating even the largest rooms.
Such installations have a very high efficiency, almost approaching 100 percent, and the cost of its manufacture and subsequent operation will be much less than in the manufacture of electrical modifications.
There is another option with diesel guns, which also proved to be very good, but for their operation, exhaust gases must be removed, which complicates operation. And the cost of diesel fuel exceeds the price of gas.
In addition, a home-made gas heat gun can be made in the shortest possible time, and is not as demanding on operating conditions as electrical models guns.
Another advantage of the gas version is its mobility and, at the same time, high air heating power. The diesel option will require liquid fuel that can spill, gasoline is the same, and an electric gun of sufficient power will require special permission and registration for additional power for electricity.
Gas, during combustion, practically does not leave any traces of combustion, which makes it possible to operate such installations indoors, without the additional ventilation necessary for diesel or gasoline burners and the removal of exhaust gases to the street.
This became possible due to the fact that during combustion, propane, namely, it is used by the bulk of household gas guns, burns almost 100 percent, without smell and smoke.
How does this setup work?
The device of a gas heat gun is very simple. All of it consists of a gas cylinder, a gearbox that provides a uniform gas supply, a burner, a fan and a housing.
Basically, there is nothing complicated there. Gas is supplied to the burner, the fan drives air through the heat exchanger or flame, and it heats up. Of course, this is only a schematic representation of its work, but the principle can be understood.
To facilitate understanding of the principle of operation of such devices, you can look at the picture - a diagram showing such a heat gun in section. 
In principle, everything is simple, but in order to make such an installation, you must have practical skills in making such things and considerable knowledge in this topic.
Therefore, do something like with my own hands usually not recommended. With even a slight violation of manufacturing technology, the device can become very dangerous - after all, liquefied gas will be used, and it is explosive. So, making a gas gun without experience in creating such devices is far from the best idea.
If all the necessary knowledge and skills are available, then a home-made gas gun will help solve the heating problem, for example, a country barn or a greenhouse.
Key points to consider
Even with all the necessary knowledge and skills, you need to follow a few fairly simple rules:
The body of the gun must not come into contact with the cylinder. This may cause it to overheat and explode.
All gas supply pipe connections must be sealed.
Do not ignite gas from burning paper or a lighter - this is very dangerous. To do this, you need to install a special remote ignition device.
Cylinders must be filled on special equipment, which is available only for special services involved in filling such cylinders with gas.
The power of the gun must be carefully read and not exceeded.
The operating unit must not be left unattended.
Self-made units cannot ensure complete combustion of gas. This leads to the need for a device for the removal of combustion products to the street.
Such models of gas heaters do not provide in their design for direct heating of air with an open flame, but through a heat exchanger. 
The combustion of gas, in this case, takes place in a closed combustion chamber, and the heat is transferred to the body of the heat exchanger that heats the air. Exhaust gases from the combustion chamber are discharged to the street through a pipe - a chimney.
This version of the gun is safer to operate, and the power will be enough to heat even a large room.
If the body of the unit itself becomes too hot, you can cover it with a heat-resistant heat insulator, which will make heating more efficient and prevent burns when touching the body.
Conclusion
You can make such a device with your own hands. But, it’s worth taking it for a long time when there is absolutely inexpensive options on store shelves?
After all, any home-made device will lose to a factory-made one, both in terms of efficiency and reliability.
It's up to everyone to decide. But, even if you decide to make such an apparatus with your own hands, you must remember all safety measures, including fire safety.
There are hardly more pressing problems in winter than problems with high-quality heating of objects. To solve them, special equipment is used, one of the most common among which is a heat gun, in particular, a gas one. Today we will talk about how to make a gas gun with your own hands and whether it can be done in principle.
Note that thermal gas guns have become very popular in our country. Lately. And the reason for this is not only the specific climate, but also a fairly large number of cottages and country houses. In a word, such devices have a lot of advantages.
- Relatively fast assembly/dismantling.
- They are safe.
- After installation, they are immediately ready for heating.
- They are mobile and compact.
- The air in the whole room warms up very quickly.
- You can independently regulate the temperature mode.
- Finally, impressive efficiency.
The principle of operation and application of the gas gun
If you connect the gun to a centralized gas supply, then it turns into a full-fledged stationary device, which in a private house can completely replace the entire heating system without any damage to the quality of heating. Regarding the fuel used, in most cases it is propane-butane.
Note! When the gas is burned, almost no odor is emitted.
Moreover, the multi-level protection system, which is available in the devices, completely eliminates gas leakage. More "advanced" models have a special case coating that protects it from damage.
Thanks to gas guns, you can not only heat, but also quickly dry any surfaces - for example, plaster, freshly poured concrete, etc., and high performance makes it possible to use the device in large rooms - warehouses, hangars - and in crowded places. This device is really mono turn on and forget, because temperature control, on / off initiates the thermostat. Finally, in terms of the amount of carbon monoxide, a gas gun does not exceed an ordinary stove.
What else can be used to heat industrial premises,
All devices of this kind consist of standard elements:
- heat exchanger;
- automatic device-controller;
- fan.
It is characteristic that the device requires very little electricity - after all, it is needed only to rotate the fan. When the gas burns, the heat exchanger warms up. The air driven by the fan passes through the heat exchanger, heats up and spreads throughout the heated room.
Varieties of gas guns
Air can be heated in one of two ways:
- direct heating;
- indirect.
Gas guns (do-it-yourself or factory-made) with direct heating have enough simple design, which is why their cost is low. The burner is not isolated in them, so that, in addition to heated air, gas combustion products also enter the room. For this reason, the device is compact and shows good efficiency. But if it is used to heat a dwelling, then you must first make sure that it (the room) has a good ventilation system, which would remove the products of combustion.
Guns operating on an indirect principle are equipped with isolated combustion chambers. They have special nozzles with which these products are discharged and which are connected to a common chimney. They are ideal for any type of space where many people gather.
All this is a description of stationary guns, but besides them, there are also portable or mobile guns. They are used together with gas cylinders. In order to make it convenient to transport and operate the device, it has special wheels and handles.
Note! Mobile guns require strict adherence to safety rules.
The operating time of such devices is dictated only by the volume of the gas cylinder, fuel consumption fluctuates in the range of 0.6-7 liters. at one o'clock. In order to extend the battery life, there are special adapters that allow you to connect the device to several cylinders at once. The most economical option is a gun that is equipped with a thermostat. With it, the device turns off after the required room temperature is reached. In a word, heating the room with such guns is an opportunity to save on heating.
What will be required in the work
So, you have decided that your DIY gas gun will be made. Well, this is understandable, since it is cost-effective. But one desire is not enough, the following list of tools and materials will be required.
- Metal pipe for supplying fuel to the system.
- Drill with drill bits for metal.
- Bulgarian.
- Steel sheet.
- Strips of metal 2 mm thick.
- 8 mm iron pipe needed to create a heat exchanger.
- The fan is from the car, its power must be at least 12 volts.
- Reinforcement for the structure on which the gun will be placed.
DIY gas gun
Such devices are represented today by the widest range of models from different countries. We use them mainly for heating garages. But before a do-it-yourself gas gun begins to be created, we recall once again that it consumes a lot of electricity.
You may also be interested in an article on how the electrical
So, step technology device manufacturing.
First stage. To begin with, we cut the pipe with a "grinder" - it is through it that the gas will flow into the system. These measures are necessary to further lengthen the pipe - in order to do this, we weld any other pipe having the same diameter.
Third stage. When this is done, we increase the length of the body - this is necessary to increase heat transfer. To do this, we need a metal disc (? 8 centimeters), which we will fix directly under the extension. Then a hole is drilled with 1 centimeter, in total we need eight holes of a similar nature.
Fourth stage. We make a clamp with which the heat exchanger itself will be fixed. After that, we weld two metal plates of 2 mm each in the form of a cross - this is also necessary to increase heat transfer.
Fifth stage. We build a heat exchanger. We take for this an iron pipe with? 8 centimeters, its walls should not be too thick. After that, we weld the end on the pipe wall, in which, in turn, we drill a hole. Through it we will pass the extension cord from the burner, and at the end the clamp must be additionally strengthened with bolts.
Sixth stage. We continue to work with the heat energy exchanger. We make a hole in its body (using a grinder for this), to which a segment of an eight-centimeter tube is attached. Warm air will come out of it into the room.
seventh stage. Next we take conventional fan from a car with a power of at least 12 volts, and install it at the second end of the exchanger housing. This will be a kind of motor for us, in other words, a device that generates energy for our device, through which heat will be transferred to a heated room.
Eighth stage. The last stage of work will be drilling the holes necessary in order to make it more convenient to ignite the gas. Moreover, you will also need to think over the design, where, in fact, the gas gun will be placed with your own hands. You can use iron fittings for this, welding a kind of frame out of it.
Trial run
To use the gun, you need to perform some procedures.
- We light the lighter by bringing it to the hole for kindling the fuel.
- We open the valve so that the gas begins to flow.
- When the gas lights up, remove the lighter back.
- We turn on the fan.
If we briefly consider the manufacturing technology of this kind of heat gun, then it looks like this:
- we fix a metal disk-extension on the burner;
- we extend the pipe necessary for the gas supply of the device;
- we install iron plates necessary to improve heat transfer;
- install the clamp on one side of the extension, after that it is necessary to fix the heat exchanger itself;
- we assemble the entire heating device as a whole;
- we make holes in the heat exchanger so that hot air comes out through them;
- We weld a metal ring to the second end of the pipe;
- install a switch on the heat exchanger that will turn on / off the fan;
- direct assembly of the fan.
Do not forget that a do-it-yourself gas gun also needs a body. This case, as you know, is most like an ordinary pipe, so we can easily make it ourselves. To do this, we take a not too thick sheet of steel, cut it to give it the required size, and turn it into a pipe.
In order to connect the edges of the sheet together, you can resort to the method of connecting the lock. If for one reason or another you cannot do this, then use the usual fixing bolts.
Finally
Well, here we have examined the features, principle of operation and manufacturing technology of such a device as a gas heat gun. This device is very popular due to its cost-effectiveness and the possibility of heating rooms with a large area in record time. You can make it yourself, it is enough to have a list necessary tools, materials, and a little patience.
Like "Evdokimov's gas gun". This is a very efficient and useful device when you need to quickly heat the room in the cold season. Among other things, such a gun is able to work autonomously; a 12V car battery, as well as a gas cylinder, is enough for its operation. But lovers of such homemade products did not stop there and decided to make this device even more effective. The article will consider the option of how to improve such a device.
The most important thing that has now appeared in the gun is a shutter, which makes it easier to launch and control the device.
Materials and tools for manufacturing:
- asbestos cord;
- welding;
- Bulgarian;
- metal plates;
- steel pipe;
- drill;
- gas supply regulator;
- steel bar, etc.;
- 220V fan.
Manufacturing process:
Step one. Creating a damper
To make it convenient to set fire to the gun and regulate the intensity of the heat output, it was decided to install a damper on it. It is made very simply. A metal rod of suitable diameter is taken and a longitudinal incision is made in it. One end of the rod is bent in such a way that a handle is formed. In the axis itself, you need to drill two holes and cut the threads for the bolts into them.
The damper is made of sheet steel and is fixed with screws. In order for the damper to open and close with some tension, a spring and a washer are installed on it.
Step two. Burner modification
To make the fuel burn better, you need to redo the burner a little. For these purposes, the author installed a special liner in the 80 mm pipe. How it looks can be seen in the photo.
Step three. System sealing
So that excess heat does not come out of the gun, and energy is not wasted, it was nice to insulate it well. We are talking about the place where the small pipe comes out of the big one. There is a gap here to close it, you need to make a special cover, it will be mounted on self-tapping screws. Well, asbestos cord is used as an insulating material.
Step four. Cannon check
Among other things, the gun was equipped with even more powerful fan, is a 220V household propeller for bathroom. The gun starts with the damper closed, and when stable combustion is achieved, the damper can be opened. For arson, a long gas lighter.
The experiment showed that the gun is capable of delivering hot air with a temperature of up to 70 degrees. Of course, it all depends on its initial temperature. According to the author, such a gun can heat without problems
