Tiled. If the heating device has lost its original view, then such a lining may well replace the old layer of plaster. If the stove was whitewashed or painted, then after a while it appearance had to update. But if you properly lay the tile, then it will be ready to serve for several decades.
Finishing is carried out not only to make the stove look attractive, but also to preserve the layer of plaster, which acts as a protective barrier that does not allow the seams between the bricks to open. Among other things, the tile has a high heat capacity, therefore, when heated, it itself gives off heat to the room for a long time, preventing the stove from cooling down quickly.
Previously, tiles were laid only on the mortar, but today it is customary to use new methods that over time allow you to replace the facing material with a new one. However, before starting Finishing work, it is necessary to carry out some measures that are no less important for the safe use of the oven and quality styling materials.
Preparatory work
If you are faced with the question of how to overlay the oven tiles, then it is necessary to start the process with the preparation of tools, including:
- spatulas;
- tile cutter;
- pencil;
- metal ruler;
- building level;
- electric drill;
- glue container.
As for spatulas, you will need several varieties, among them:
- jagged;
- usual;
- angular;
- rubber.
The first will be needed for applying and distributing glue. It is recommended to purchase a tool with a tooth height of 6 mm. But a straight spatula, which is also needed, will be required to clean the surface. To decorate the corners, you should purchase an angle spatula, but you can close the seams between the tiles with a rubber tool.
Among other things, you should take care of the presence of an electric drill, which will have a nozzle in the form of a mixer. So you can knead the glue. In addition to the building level, you should purchase or find a plumb line. For marking, you may need a pencil or marker. When performing installation, it is best to have at hand:
- metal scissors;
- hammer;
- riveter.
For the manufacture of corners, you may need rubber or wooden hammer. Perhaps you should take care of having a drill with a set of drill bits for metal.
Preparation of materials
Quite often, novice home craftsmen wonder how to tile. If you are also one of them, then you need to prepare the following materials:
- heat resistant glue;
- grout;
- primer;
- plinth.
As for the glue, it is necessary to choose the one that is intended for lining stoves and fireplaces. But if the tile will be installed dry, then you should prepare:
- sheet of galvanized steel;
- aluminum two-meter strips;
- steel corner.
As for the steel sheet, its thickness should be equal to the limit of 0.6 to 0.9 mm. Aluminum strips will have a width of 20 mm, they will be useful for the manufacture of the frame, where the guides will be installed.
Tile selection
The choice of tiles depends not only on the type of furnace, but also on the characteristics inherent in the material. Furnaces can be heating, heating and cooking, kitchen or made in the form of fireplaces. Each variety has a specific duration of the heating and cooling cycle.
Furnaces can also differ in heating temperature, so it is logical to assume that tiles should be selected taking into account these operating features. The cladding material must be resistant to high temperatures. In general, the stove can be overlaid with any tile, but not every variety of it is suitable for this purpose. For cladding, you can use heat-resistant (heat-resistant, refractory and heat-resistant) tiles. The coefficient of thermal expansion in this case will be equal to the limit from 7 to 8%.
If you are faced with the question of how to overlay the oven with tiles, then you must also take into account the strength of the material. Some varieties have a strength in the range of 300 N / m 2, which is much higher compared to concrete. Many consumers primarily pay attention to chemical inertness and environmental friendliness. When heated, the material should not release harmful substances, That's why chemical composition more attention needs to be paid.
Choosing a tile according to other characteristics
In order for the lining of the furnace to serve long time, you need to choose one that is resistant to scratches, wear and abrasion. Due to the fact that stove and stone tiles are installed for a long time, it is desirable that during this period they do not change their aesthetic qualities. In addition, the tile must be low-porous. The higher this figure, the lower the strength.
It is also necessary to take into account the moisture absorption coefficient, it should not exceed 3%. If the coefficient increases, then the porosity increases and the strength decreases. Tiles for stoves must also be fire resistant. It is good if the material has a certificate containing data on this.
The main types of tiles
Terracotta tiles are one of the types of material for facing heating equipment. The process of its production involves the use of a certain type of clay, as a result, it is possible to obtain a heat-resistant tile, which has proven itself as a facing material for fireplaces and stoves. Among the main features, high strength and the presence of terracotta color, which can be glazed or unglazed, should be highlighted.
Due to the fact that glazed terracotta tiles are more attractive, they are used most often. Due to the fact that the products have vapor permeability and a special structure, this finish is recommended for use when lining stoves in saunas and baths. Such a surface is easy to care for, it is heat-resistant, and during installation it shows excellent adhesion to any surfaces.
Tile "Majolica"
Another type of heat-resistant tile is "Majolica", which is a more advanced version of glazed terracotta tiles. Their characteristics are similar, the difference is only in appearance. Due to the fact that the Majolica pattern is applied in a thin layer, surface cracking is almost excluded. However, Majolica tiles are not recommended for use in or in the kitchen, as well as in rooms with high humidity, since the material has a porous structure.
Choice of clinker tiles
If you decide to use heat-resistant clinker tiles for stoves and fireplaces, then you need to take its choice seriously. Heat resistance is indicated by the letter "T". Before purchasing the material, you must make sure that it is fire resistant. But as for the preferred thickness, for a fireplace or stove, it should be 8 mm. Thinner cannot be used unless it is 6 mm, otherwise the material will experience constant heat and quickly break down.
For cladding, square-shaped tiles with a side of 120 mm are the best. If the dimensions are quite large, and the thickness remains the same, then the strength and rigidity of the masonry decreases. With an increase in thickness, problems arise with fastening, because the glue is not able to hold the impressive weight of the cladding. The color of the tile should vary slightly, unless you use special decorative techniques.
Before laying tiles on a brick oven, you must make sure that the products comply with exact dimensions. The point here is not even in the aesthetic side of the issue, but in the complexity of installation. After all, if the tiles have different sizes, then it will not be possible to lay them tightly to each other, therefore, before purchasing the tile, it is necessary to check for compliance with the geometric parameters. To do this, two products are added together, which will allow you to check if there are gaps between the surfaces.
Preparatory work
Whatever method of finishing you choose, the surface of the furnace must first be prepared, for this you need to remove the old layer of plaster. In order to make these works easier to carry out, the walls are wetted several times with water. If the coating is clay, then it can be removed with a spatula. But if there is a cement-based mortar surface, you may have to act with a hammer and chisel. However, in the end, you should get a furnace wall completely freed from the old finish.
After you cope with the plaster, you need to walk on the surface with an iron brush or grinder, the last of which must be supplemented with a special nozzle. The surface is sprayed with water from a spray gun, and the brick seams are cleaned, while it is necessary to go deep by 10 mm. This is required in order for the plaster to adhere to the wall.
If the masonry is new, then it should be dried well, and then cleaned of dust and mortar residues. As soon as these works are completed, the surface is primed, and the composition must fall to the full depth of the joints. Allow the substrate to dry before proceeding with laying stove tiles. The best preparation is to apply a primer in 2 layers. The walls are checked for their straightness, because in the end you should get a foundation without drops. The process is carried out using a plumb line and a building level.
If you notice differences, then the wall will have to be leveled. This can be done with a plaster mixture, which is intended for finishing the furnace. If the layer is thin, then it is applied with a wide spatula, leveling the solution. But if it is necessary to form a thick layer, the solution is applied by spraying, and then leveled by the rule.
Adhesive selection
Before you start lining, you need to pick up the glue. In order not to calculate the proportions, it is better to purchase a ready-made composition intended for finishing fireplaces and stoves. Some craftsmen prefer to use a cement-based mortar, adding salt or PVC to it. If you add a little salt, the substance will acquire the ability to accumulate moisture, preventing the clay, concrete and glue from drying out quickly.
Laying tiles
Laying tiles on the stove is carried out, starting from the bottom. At the first stage, it will be necessary to beat off the line of the first row. Marking is carried out using a colored cord. At first, the lining may slide down, so a perforated metal corner must be installed along the line. It is fixed with dowels, which must be removed from each other by a distance of 200 mm.
Before you start lining the Russian stove with ceramic tiles with your own hands, you need to install perforated corners on the corners of the heater, which will allow you to make a corner joint. After preparation, you can proceed to the preparation of glue. The solution is infused for 10 minutes, only after that you can proceed to the installation of the first row.
Using a notched trowel, an adhesive mass is applied to the wall, after which it is distributed over an area equal to 7 tiles. On the surface covered with glue, it is necessary to lay the cladding, and install crosses between the individual tiles. Laying tiles "Majolica", between separate elements you can leave a gap, the thickness of which will be 10 mm. Instead of crosses, in this case, you can use chopped pieces of drywall.
Tiles must be pressed against the wall, checking their position with a building level. Adhesive protruding from the seams must be removed immediately. The seam space should remain empty, because later it should be filled with grout. It is necessary to lay the tiles as evenly as possible, but the position of the products can be corrected within another 15 minutes. After this time, the glue will set, and it will no longer be possible to move the lining.
After you have finished finishing the oven with tiles in the first four rows, you need to take a break for a couple of hours so that the glue sets well. After laying, you can complete, and then leave for a day or 36 hours. Before doing this, it is important to take care of cleaning the surface from adhesive residue. At this stage, it will not be difficult to wipe it off, but after it finally seizes, it will be very difficult to remove the stains.
Having laid the clinker tiles for stoves, you can proceed to grouting. For this, it is necessary to use heat-resistant compounds that can withstand about 200 ° C. The composition is selected by color, but you should not choose white, as with temperature changes it can acquire a dirty shade. Having closed the seams, you can proceed to wet cleaning. After some time, the mixture will be quite difficult to remove from the surface of the cladding and floor.
Conclusion
Now you know how to lay tiles on an old stove. To do this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of the heater, and then cover them with a primer. It is important to make sure that the base is as even as possible, otherwise it is leveled. As for the mortar for masonry, then the best option will become a heat-resistant adhesive for ceramic tiles, because you do not have to independently select the ingredients, as well as the proportions. The manufacturer has already done all this for the master. Yes, and cement compositions have many disadvantages. For fire resistance, additives to the composition are required.
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
High-quality and original lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles allows you to favorably highlight it in the interior. Additionally, the subsequent external cleaning of the furnace, maintaining its attractive appearance will be simplified. At proper preparation and the use of special solutions, glue in the work, every owner of the house and cottage will be able to correctly complete the cladding.
The procedure for preparing for facing the Russian stove with ceramic tiles
Proper preparation of the furnace for subsequent cladding consists in creating an even base, strengthening the mortar. Therefore, it should initially be removed from it already existing paint, putty and other finishes. It is important to achieve perfect purity surfaces, remove all dust and clean the seams between the bricks. Additionally, the seams should be deepened by 1 cm.
Further, the technology of tiling a brick oven with ceramic tiles involves priming its surface. This will ensure excellent adhesion of the prepared walls to the tiles to be glued. Initially, it is necessary to attach a grid to the brick, which is used when plastering works. It should be fixed at equal lengths with self-tapping screws. Under them, it is necessary to prepare holes in advance.
How to properly tile a stove with ceramic tiles
The priming of the furnace is carried out immediately after the installation of the grid. To do this, you will need to prepare a special solution for lining furnaces with ceramic tiles. It should include cement, clay and sand with their respective mixing in such proportions - 1: 3: 0.2. The addition of clay will allow you to get a quality solution that will retain its integrity for a long time. After the mixture has dried (for this you can simply heat the oven), the following work is carried out:
- Heat-resistant glue is prepared (according to the instructions from the manufacturer).
- The first row of tiles is glued (with plastic crosses). The seam between adjacent tiles is half filled with glue.
- The evenness of the laying of tiles horizontally and vertically is checked. Periodic checks will guarantee the evenness of the laying of the cladding.
- After laying 3 rows, a break is made for 4 hours for the glue to harden.
- Laying continues in stages (3 rows each) until the lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles with your own hands is completely completed.
By following these instructions, you can ensure a high-quality result. Additionally, it is recommended to study educational videos on the topic and familiarize yourself with the proposed photo reports. Removal of plastic crosses should be carried out 24 hours after completion of work. Grouting will additionally be carried out with a special solution. After an hour, the excess remaining on the tile must be removed. Re-cleaning the tiles is recommended after another 1 hour.
How to avoid mistakes in work and improve the quality of the result?
Guaranteeing high-quality lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles with your own hands will only allow you to follow the instructions exactly. But you also need to carefully select the materials used. For example, glue should be purchased from a reputable manufacturer. At the same time, it must withstand about 200 degrees (such an indicator will be quite enough). But when choosing tiles, it is recommended to consider the following rules:
- use elements with the same shade of the base material;
- exclude tiles that contain minor damage, chips or irregularities;
- trim the tiles only or with a grinder with a special nozzle (it will guarantee the integrity of the products after gluing).
It is also important to properly prepare for facing in order to get really stylish design. To do this, before starting work, lay out the tiles in such a way as to obtain the desired pattern or pattern. It is better to lay it out on the floor, having previously outlined the perimeter that it must close. Such a “fitting” of tiles on each wall of the stove will allow you to get the desired result and eliminate incorrect gluing of elements.
Facing fireplaces and stoves with ceramic tiles, one might say, is a classic type of finish. This material has been preferred for many centuries, because the coating is strong, durable and aesthetic.
Tiles were the first to be used, the beauty of which could not leave anyone indifferent - in many historical buildings such stoves delight the eye even after two hundred years. They were made by hand and were very expensive, but over time, other options appeared, the price of which is not so high.
We will tell you which ceramic tiles for lining furnaces are currently used, and what is the production technology for this work.
The outcome of any finish largely depends on the correct selection of the material used, and ceramic tiling of stoves is no exception. Special requirements are imposed on the decorative coating of the furnace.
This is understandable, because it will be subject to constant heating and cooling.
So:
- Everything is important here: from the quality of brickwork, and ending with technical specifications adhesive used for lining the oven with ceramic tiles. Therefore, before instructions for performing facing work are given, we bring to your attention an overview of those types of tiles that are suitable for finishing a fireplace or stove in all respects.
| Tile type | Production features | Specifications |
| This type of tile is made from a special composition obtained by mixing fireclay (refractory) clay, quartz sand, feldspar and faience. Products are molded by extrusion and subjected to high-temperature firing. | Standard dimensions: 240*71*8mm 320*148*12mm Properties: low water absorption; high wear resistance; strength and resistance to critical temperatures; high surface hardness and chemical resistance. |
| In its production, white clay (kaolin), feldspar, sand and mineral additives are used, thanks to which the products acquire color and texture. It can be molded both by extrusion and by pressing under high pressure. Fired in tunnel kilns. | Only small format is used for lining the furnace: 50 * 50 * 8 mm200 * 200 * 12 mm
It has a low cost, due to which the lining of heating furnaces with ceramic tiles is the most profitable in terms of economy. |
| The tile is made from terracotta clay and fireclay, with the addition of minerals (manganese, chromium, cobalt). It can be produced both in the factory and manually. Subjected to a single firing at a temperature of 1000 degrees. | Standard sizes: 240*70 and corner 165*70*50263*123 and corner 180*123*52. The thickness of the tile is not uniform due to the relief.
|
| Italian tiles, now produced in many countries. Several types of clay are used as raw materials: kaolin, fireclay, faience, calcium is added. Majolica is molded by pressing, subjected to double or even triple firing. It depends on the complexity of the surface decor. There are other types of “cotto”, “terraglia” finishing ceramics, which are made using similar technologies, but the raw material has a different composition and decor style. For example, terralia tiles can be painted by hand. | Small format tiles: 150*150 150*200 The thickness varies depending on the relief.
Aesthetics and a high level of decorativeness is one of the main advantages of this tile. |
| The most ancient type of tile. Tiles have a special configuration and are specially designed for lining fireplaces and stoves. On the back there is a ramp (see photo) with holes for fasteners. Slip (Westerwal clay) is used as raw material. After applying the glaze and firing, it is signed by hand. | Dimensions 220*220 mm and 220*250 mm. The kit includes halves, corners, borders, shelves, cornices, embossed inserts, grates and firebox framing.
The durability of the material exceeds the service life of many buildings. The tile is unusually beautiful, in appearance it resembles majolica. |
In conclusion, a short digression on the prices of the types of tiles indicated in the table, as well as the consumables necessary for work:
- Clinker tiles - from 950 rubles / m2
- Porcelain stoneware - from 260 rubles / m2
- Terracotta - from 1180 rubles / m2
- Majolica - from 1220 rubles / m2
- Tiles - from 1300 rubles / m2
Facing a brick oven with ceramic tiles cannot be done without a heat-resistant primer, glue and grout:
- A G-77 soil canister weighing 1 kg costs about 200 rubles.
- The cost of a bag of glue weighing 25 kg varies between 350-420 rubles.
- Grout for joints, a bucket weighing 2 kg will cost about 230 rubles.
Getting Started
Facing with ceramic tiles heating furnace, built of brick, is ideal option finishes for the simple reason that these materials are made from the same raw material - clay. Their thermal conductivity is approximately the same, which means that the difference in thermal expansion coefficients is small and will not cause problems.
So:
- A brick oven, in any case, if it is double-circuit, warms up slowly and evenly, retains heat for a long time, and cools down just as slowly. If the oven has one circuit, some places on its body may overheat, and this is not very good.
In such a situation, ceramic tiling of stoves should be carried out not with a mortar, but with a heat-resistant adhesive or silicone sealant.
- In any case, the most important condition for high-quality cladding is careful preparation of the base. If an operating furnace is being updated, the old coating must be removed by cleaning the base to the brick.
Cleaning should be such that there are no remnants of old plaster or adhesive mortar on the brickwork, for which a metal brush is usually used. - Moreover, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, the solution should be removed from the seams, deepening them by 10 mm. Such preparation will contribute to better adhesion of the tile adhesive to the brickwork. Then we remove dust from the surface, and treat it with soil, and while it dries, we make a solution.
Choice of solution
So:
- It can be cement and sand mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 + 30% water, and it is advisable to add PVA glue at the rate of 300g per bucket of mortar. Alternatively, you can make a clay mixture with sand.
Their ratio depends on the fat content of the clay, which is usually indicated on the packaging. Any mortar should be mixed with a construction mixer to prevent the formation of lumps.
- The composition of heat-resistant dry adhesive mixtures in the factory version, in addition to cement, also includes modifying additives: latex, acrylic, and other types of resins. It is they who enhance the adhesive properties of the adhesive, make it immune to elevated temperatures. And its cost is not so high as to give preference to ordinary clay or cement mortar.
- For example, to finish a single-circuit furnace, you definitely need to use a factory mixture. Otherwise, there is a risk that the lining will fall off in places of local overheating. In what ratio to dilute it, you can read on the package, and try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations exactly.
- At the same time, the facing of brick ovens with ceramic tiles is carried out along a reinforcing mesh, and it is better to take the fiberglass option. It is fixed with nails, which are hammered into the seams between the bricks.
It is necessary to make sure that the mesh is held firmly enough, but not too tight - you need to take into account the thermal expansion of the brick.
- And yet, when finishing a single-circuit furnace, the gap between the tiles should be made larger: not 2-3 mm, but 4-5 mm. Ordinary crosses will not provide it, therefore, before tiling the oven with ceramic tiles, stock up square templates of the desired thickness, as in the photo above.
It can be any material at hand: pieces of plywood, plastic, or thick cardboard. - It is better to apply the adhesive solution to the surface first, distribute it with a notched trowel - let it dry. Then, just apply glue to the tile, lay it, press it against the wall of the oven, and tap with a rubber mallet, expelling air and excess mortar.
- As soon as the glue sets, clean the seams between the tiles with a corner of the spatula, making room for the grout, which is done a day after the cladding. On this, do-it-yourself lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles is finished.
The above technology applies to all types of ceramic cladding, except for tiles. This is the only type of tile that is mounted during the construction of the furnace, since its fastening is carried out by anchoring.
A tiled stove is a monolithic structure, where the cladding elements are fixed to each other, and are also an integral part of the brickwork. Look for the details of arranging such a furnace in the articles on our website.
If she has lost her original neat appearance, or in the case when Was such a cladding planned in advance, even when planning the construction? This question often arises among the owners of private houses during the repair of the premises where the old stove is installed, or upon completion of the laying and drying of the new one.
Some owners prefer to plaster ovens with subsequent whitewashing or painting, but this is a less durable finish, and it will have to be updated in a couple of years. But right laid tile will last for more than a decade.
The stove is finished with tiles not only to make this structure look aesthetically pleasing, but also to preserve the plaster layer. Plaster in this case is the main protective layer that won't open seams between bricks through which products of combustion can enter the room.
In addition, it has a large heat capacity, and, heating up itself, gives off heat to the room for a long time and does not allow the entire brick oven to cool quickly.
Previously, tiles were laid in only one way - on the mortar. Today, some craftsmen invent new methods that even allow, over time, to replace a cladding material that has become boring or has lost its decorative qualities with a new one, which, for example, has more interesting design matching the style of the whole room. The same method can also help if one of the tiles, and anywhere on the stove wall, is accidentally damaged and you want to replace it.
To decide on the choice of finishes and figure out which of the cladding methods will be easier to implement, you need to take a closer look at the nuances of the technology.
Plastering the oven is also a good solution!
Brick ovens have long been plastered with clay mortars and whitewashed for every big holiday. This is a method that has been proven for centuries, and if the mortar is prepared with high quality and the plaster is applied in accordance with all the rules, then sometimes you can limit yourself to such a finish. - read in a special publication of our portal.
But before starting finishing work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures, which are no less important for the safe operation of the furnace and the high-quality laying of tiles.
Preparation for tiling the oven
You need to start by preparing all necessary tools to help prepare the surface and finish it.
Tools for the job
From the tools you will need:
- Spatulas:
- serrated - for applying and distributing tile adhesive. The recommended height of the teeth is 5 ÷ 6 mm;
- ordinary straight line of medium size - for cleaning the surface;
- corner - for decorating the corners of the building;
- rubber - for sealing joints between tiles, when laying it on glue.
- Tile cutter and grinder.
- Metal ruler.
- A simple pencil or marker for marking.
- Building level, plumb.
- Glue container.
- Electric drill and nozzle-mixer for mixing the adhesive mass.
When installing tiles without glue, you additionally need to prepare:
- Wooden or rubber hammer for making corners.
- Metal scissors.
- Device (sheet bending jig) for the manufacture of corners right size. It is assembled from thick wooden beam and a steel strip with a thickness equal to the thickness of ceramic tiles, plus 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.
- Riveter, rivets, drill with a set of drill bits for metal.
Materials for preparatory and finishing works
For each of the installation methods, in addition to the tile itself, various building materials will be required.
So, for laying ceramic tiles on glue, you will need:
- Heat-resistant adhesive designed for lining fireplaces and stoves.
- Primer.
- Grout for joints between tiles.
- Plinth.
In the case of a “dry” installation of tiles, without glue, you need to prepare:
- Sheets of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6 - 0.9 mm.
- Aluminum or steel corner to close corners.
- Aluminum strips 2 mm thick, 20 mm wide - for the manufacture of a frame on which the guides will be fixed.
Prices for heat-resistant plaster for ovens
heat-resistant plaster
Preparatory work
Whatever finishing method is chosen, the surface of the furnace must be well prepared for plastering and cladding. These works cannot be considered secondary, since they will determine how smoothly the plaster and tile adhesive will lie on the surface.
- The first step is to remove the old plaster. To make it easier to remove, you can wet the wall with water several times. If the coating consists of clay, it can be easily removed with a spatula. If the mortar was made with the addition of cement, then you may have to use a chisel and a hammer. But, it must be remembered that the furnace wall must be completely freed from the old plaster layer to the “clean” brick.
- After removing the plaster from the surface, it is necessary to walk on them with an iron brush manually, or with a grinder, fixing a special nozzle on it.
- Further, the surface is well sprayed with water from a spray gun, and the seams between the bricks are cleaned to a depth of 8 ÷ 10 mm - this is necessary so that the plaster is well fixed on the wall.
- If the masonry is new, then it must be well dried, and it must also be cleaned, since in any case, the remains of the solution or dust are retained on the surface.
- Upon completion of the cleaning, the wall must be well primed, and the soil must fall to the depth of the masonry joints. Before proceeding to the next work, the wall is left to dry completely. It will be optimal not to regret the primer and apply it twice.
The surface requires priming, and best of all - twice
- Next, the walls of the stove must be checked for their straightness, since the laid tiles will not be able to make them even and will only emphasize the differences, if they exist. The process is carried out with the help of a building level and a plumb line.
- If differences are found, the wall will have to be leveled.
For this, focusing plumb, on the wall exposed metal profiles-lighthouses. It is desirable that the height of the leveling layer be no more than 8 ÷ 10 mm.
Alignment is carried out with a plaster mixture, which is intended for finishing furnaces.
If the layer of plaster is thin, then it is applied with a wide spatula, immediately leveling the solution.
A thick layer of the solution is applied using the “spray” method, and then leveled with a rule, moving it along the fixed beacons.
- If, when removing old plaster, knocked down corners are found, then they must be strengthened by reinforcing with perforated metal corner before applying the solution.
- After the plaster mortar has set, it is recommended to attach a reinforcing fiberglass mesh to it on a thin layer of adhesive mixture. When the glue dries, the mesh is covered with another thin adhesive layer, which, in turn, should also dry well.
Sometimes reinforcement is carried out metal mesh, which is fixed before leveling the wall directly onto the brick with wide-head nails driven into the seams between the rows.
- The leveled plastered wall should dry well before carrying out further work.
- If the tile will be mounted on glue, then it is better to prime the plastered dry surface again - this will help the tile to be more securely attached to the wall.
Once again, I would like to remind you that the preparation of the walls of the furnace before facing work must be carried out very carefully, otherwise the glued tiles will begin to fall off during temperature changes. Well, if the installation of the finishing material will be carried out on metal carcass, fixed to an old, dilapidated plaster layer, it is possible that the entire structure will move away from the wall along with the old plaster and tiles.
Adhesive for oven tiling
Facing the stove with tiles can be done with different solutions, but in order not to rack your brains and not calculate the proportions of the components, it is better to buy ready-made glue, specially designed for finishing stoves and fireplaces.
Some masters prefer to use cement mortar with the addition of PVA glue or salt to it.
If you add a little ordinary table salt to the finished masonry adhesive, it will not be worse, since this substance is able to accumulate moisture and thereby prevent the glue, concrete or clay from drying out quickly. Therefore, no matter which solution is chosen, adding salt to it will not hurt.
How to cut tiles?
Another process that can also be attributed to preparatory work is cutting tiles. It is better to know in advance how to do this correctly, since you can ruin a lot of facing material before you can cut the necessary fragments with high quality.
The most important thing in cutting tiles is accuracy and skill. When there is a little bit of experience, the work will go easily.
- This process is easiest to perform if you have a small tile cutter.
- The first thing to do is measure the required distance on the tile and draw a line along the ruler with a marker.
- Then the tile is fixed in the tile cutter so that the marked line is located under the cutting roller.
- Then the lever is lowered, and the tile breaks into two parts.
When there is little experience in this process, it will take one ÷ two minutes of time. But in order for the tile cutter to work efficiently, before starting work you need:
- A few drops of engine oil are poured onto the roller and onto the guide frame.
- You need to check how well the roller is fixed, that is, it should not go from side to side, otherwise the cut will turn out uneven.
- If the tile cutter has already been used extensively, then the cutting wheel may need to be replaced. It can be found in stores that sell tiles.
The tile cutter allows you to cut tiles, even those with a thickness of 8 ÷ 10 mm.
- Another tool for cutting tiles is a manual tile cutter.If this tool is purchased, then it must be of high quality. It should be said that it is hardly suitable for thick floor tiles, but if the stove is finished with wall material, then such a tool may be enough.
Hand tool - tile cutter-nippers
- In addition to tile cutters, a jigsaw can be used for cutting, on which you need to install a special tungsten carbide file. But, using this method, you need to consider that each tile will take about 10 minutes.
- If you install a special circle on the grinder, then it is also suitable for making straight cuts on ceramic tiles.
- Some craftsmen successfully cut tiles with an ordinary glass cutter, passing them along a metal ruler laid along a drawn line. This cutting method requires the application of a certain force both when drawing a line and when breaking the tile in two. In addition, without experience in carrying out such a process, you can seriously damage your hand.
So the most optimal and a safe option is still a large tile cutter, which is installed on on the desk or directly on the floor.
If the edge of the cut tile is not perfectly even, then it can be trimmed with a grinding stone.
Furnace cladding with ceramic tiles
Going directly to the lining, the work is carried out as follows:
- Laying tiles on the walls of the furnace starts from the bottom. Therefore, the first thing to do is to beat off the line of the first row. The marking is carried out using a colored cord, which is set horizontally according to the intended risks, referring to the building level, pulled and released. The cord will leave a perfectly flat line on the wall, along which the first row will be laid.
- Since the tile may initially slide down the wall, it is recommended to fix a metal perforated corner along the broken line.
It is fixed on the wall with dowels in increments of 150 ÷ 200 mm. The size of the corner is selected according to the thickness of the tile. If you choose it correctly, then the profile after installing the tile on it will not be noticeable.
If the corner of the desired size could not be found, then it will do wooden lath 15 × 25 mm or a wide glazing bead, which is temporarily fixed from below along the broken line. This impromptu guide is removed after the masonry is completed and the glue has completely dried.
- Perforated corners can be fixed at the corners of the oven, which will become the design of the corner joint, since without this it is quite difficult to make it neat.
To do this, you need to choose a profile that has a roundness at the junction of the sides, which, when the element is mounted on the walls, will be at the corner of the wall. The ends of the glued tiles will be pressed against this profile on both sides.
The corner is fixed to the wall with small dowels in increments of 300-350 mm.
- After the preparation of the wall and tiles, you can proceed to the preparation of the glue. To do this, water is poured into the prepared container, then the finished mixture is poured into it, and mixed with an electric drill and a mixer attachment. As already mentioned, a small amount of salt may be added.
After mixing, the solution must be infused for 10 ÷ 12 minutes - during this period, the polymer additives included in its composition enter into the necessary reaction, and the mixture becomes a full-fledged glue.
- Next, you can move on to laying the first row.
An adhesive mass is applied to the wall using a notched trowel. The glue is distributed over an area of 5 ÷ 7 tiles, since during the laying it should not have time to grab.
- Tiles are laid on the surface covered with glue, between which crosses are installed both in vertical seams and in horizontal ones. Usually two crosses are installed on each side of the tile. This is done to maintain the same thickness of the seams. When lining stoves (for example, when using terracotta tiles), rather large gaps are used, even 10 mm, so sometimes cut pieces of drywall are used instead of crosses.
- Each tile is pressed tightly against the wall, its location horizontally and vertically is immediately checked by the building level.
- Adhesive that has come out between the tiles into the seams must be removed immediately. The joint space must remain empty, as it will be filled with grout later.
- When laying tiles, you need to remember that if it is installed unevenly, then it can still be corrected on the wall within 12 ÷ 15 minutes. After this time, the glue will already seize, and move finishing material on it is not possible. In this case, you will have to dismantle the tile from the wall, peel off the glue and do all the work again. So it is better to immediately approach the installation with the utmost care and accuracy.
- After laying out 4 ÷ 5 rows, you need to take a break for two ÷ three hours so that the lower rows grab well.
- After that, you can complete the masonry completely and leave it to dry for 24 ÷ 36 hours. However, one should not forget about cleaning the surface of the tile from possible on the not e spots of glue. Now it won’t be hard to wipe them off, but when the rut finally grabs, removing these stains will become a very difficult task.
- After the setting time of the glue is maintained, you can proceed to the grouting. For the furnace, only those grouts are used that have a heat resistance of at least 200 ° C. The composition for this is often selected according to the color of the tile, but you should not choose white, as with temperature changes it can acquire a dirty shade.
- When sealing seams, excess grout from glazed tiles must be immediately removed with a damp sponge. This composition dries quickly, and after even a short time it will be difficult to remove.
- If terracotta tiling was carried out, a construction gun with a tube is usually used to fill the joints. The seams are filled to the full depth and left for one and a half ÷ two hours. After that, “joining” is performed, for example, with a wide flat screwdriver or a wire loop. In this case, you should not try to wipe off the grout that accidentally got on the surface of the tile - it is better to wait for it to dry completely, and then carefully pick it off with a thin screwdriver or a knife blade.
Video: how to tile a stove with terracotta tiles
Furnace cladding with ceramic tiles without glue
Prices for ceramic tiles for oven lining
Ceramic tile
This installation method is suitable for those craftsmen who do not want to use glue, express doubts that high-quality tiling of the oven with tiles will be obtained with the help of the adhesive mass.
Furnace, tiled by "dry" technology, on a metal frame
This method is also good because the lining will not react in any way to an increase and decrease in temperature, and an air cushion is formed between the wall and the tile, where hot air is retained. Therefore, it turns out that such a lining to some extent resembles the structure of a tile. Facing the oven in this way is quite simple - the main thing is to make very careful measurements and accurately manufacture the frame elements, as well as carry out work slowly, very carefully.
The whole structure consists of a kind of frame made of metal profiles, in which, as if along guides, ceramic tiles are laid.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first thing you need to start working with is marking the wall of the furnace. To do this, marks are made on the upper part of the masonry, which are verified according to the building level. Then, the same is done along the bottom line - it is planned at the height of the plinth attachment. After that, the entire space between the upper and lower marks is divided by horizontal lines into equal stripes - the height of the tile plus 3-4 mm. They will be used for fixing inter-tile profiles. Extra millimeters are necessary for the tile to move freely in the metal frame fixed to it. |
 | Lines marked with a level must be beaten off with a blue-colored cord. To do this, it is stretched to the entire width or length of the furnace wall according to the marked marks, then pulled back and released. Straight lines remain on the wall, along which frame profiles will be attached. |
 | Next, the plinth should be immediately fixed to the floor and wall. You can make it yourself from galvanized metal or choose a ready-made version, since today you can find a large number of profiles with different shapes on sale. For self-manufacturing you need from a sheet of metal, 1-1.5 mm thick, measure and cut off a strip equal to the height of the plinth plus 15-20 mm per fold, which will go to the floor. |
 | The bend is made by placing the strip on a metal table or a special device prepared in advance, consisting of a 50 × 60 mm beam and a steel plate (strip) fixed on it with self-tapping screws, with a thickness greater than the thickness of the tile by 1-1.5 mm. The workpiece is laid and fixed with clamps over a metal plate, leaving a protrusion outward of 15-20 mm. Then they gently tap on it with a mallet - a flat strip should bend, forming a right angle. The narrow bent part of the element will be fixed on the floor. The finished plinth is fixed on the stove wall with the help of anchor fasteners, and on the floor, if it is wooden, with screws with wide caps. It is especially important to make a metal plinth on the stove wall under the firebox. |
 | Next, you need to measure and cut off a piece of the corner, which will be fixed along the upper line marked on the oven wall and on the lower edge of the hob plane. This corner will frame the edges of the inner part of the frame, and its vertical elements will be fixed to it. |
 | This photo shows a corner anchored to the edge of the hob. |
 | Metal strips 20 mm wide, made of 2 mm aluminum, are riveted through the fixed perforated corners. The strips are installed vertically across the entire plane of the wall, at a distance of 250-300 mm from each other. They will serve for mounting load-bearing profiles to them, into which the tile itself will already be installed. In the photo, the master shows how the strips pass inside the entire already assembled structure. |
 | When the horizontal corners and vertical stripes are fixed on the oven wall, you can proceed to the manufacture of the profiles themselves, into which the tiles will be installed. The figure shows the J-shaped profile that should be the result. For each row of installed tiles, two profiles are required, which are installed at the top and bottom along the height of the tile, forming a groove with sides. |
 | For the manufacture of these frame elements, it is necessary to cut strips of 44 mm wide and a length equal to the width of the wall from a sheet of galvanized metal. If the furnace wall is too long, then it is better to make profiles no more than a meter long, and splice them already when mounting the frame. |
 | J-shaped profiles are made using the same bending device from a bar with a metal plate. An important point - it is necessary that the steel plate goes out along the entire length of the timber by about 3 mm - this is required for the correct formation of the side. |
 | The strip for the future profile is laid on the edge of the sheet bender with a protrusion outward at first by 3 mm. When mounting tiles on the wall, this side will serve as a holder for it. |
 | Thin metal is tapped with a mallet until the entire strip is L-shaped. Then the strip must be bent again - to form a J-shaped profile. The workpiece is transferred forward so that the size of the shelf is equal to the thickness of the tile + 1 mm. Another 1 mm is added - to the bend itself. For example, with a tile thickness of 6 mm, 8 mm must be retreated from the first corner obtained. It must be remembered that the facing looked neat, the sides should have the same width. The workpiece is again fixed with clamps and bent with a mallet. The three-millimeter protrusion of the metal plate ensures the correct formation of the entire profile. |
 | Having made profiles, each of them is checked with a tile, which is installed over the side and moved. It should slide easily on the inside surface. |
 | This photo shows how the profiles are fixed inside the structure. |
 | This shows how the profiles of two adjacent rows should be set in relation to each other. |
 | Installation of profiles is made from a plinth. Exactly along its upper part to vertical stripes the lowest profile is fixed. To do this, drill through holes in a wide profile flange and strip, where the rivet is then installed. The second J-bar is mounted along the line that defines the top of the lowest row - two tiles can be installed at the edges for control. Further, close to the first row, the guides for the second row are installed according to the same principle - and so on to the very top. |
 | Having mounted a frame for two or three rows, tiles are installed in them. It is inserted between the upper and lower profile, and advanced to the end of the wall - and so on, until the entire row is filled with tiles. The result is a neat surface, and, as can be seen from the installation process, the tile can be replaced with a new one at any time if desired. |
 | After installing the tiles, you can proceed to closing the joints at the corners. Narrow self-made corners are installed around the cooking chamber. |
 | Rounded metal corner plates are mounted on the outer corners, which are fixed to the frame guides with self-tapping screws. |
 | It is advisable to line the inner walls of the cooking chamber with stainless steel sheets. Rectangular fragments of the required size are cut out of it, bent at the edges to obtain more reliable joints, since the panels at the corners are overlapped and screwed to the inner walls. After their installation, if desired, the surface can be coated with heat-resistant black paint, which makes it easy to put the walls of the chamber in order. |
This method of finishing the stove is available even to those who are unfamiliar with the art of a tiler or stove-setter. If carry out work correctly, carefully calculating your actions, then the lining will turn out to be no worse than that made using the technology of laying tiles on glue. Another advantage of this installation method is that, using the frame rows, you can lay out any pattern from the tiles. different color, having prepared its scheme in advance.
In this article we will tell you how to tile the oven, what varieties and tools exist. It seems to many that it is elementary to do this - I bought ceramics, diluted the mortar and glue, but everything is not so simple. In order for the finish to be of really high quality and serve for at least 20-25 years, it is necessary to follow a certain technology and choose the right material. Much also depends on the quality of the adhesive.
The modern market of facing materials offers a wide variety of products. Some owners of stoves or fireplaces prefer not to use finishes at all, leaving brickwork and stylizing it as rustic. Such a decision cannot be called rational - over time, the brick begins to burst, smoke and soot penetrate the room through the cracks. Finishing should be, but what it will become - depends only on you.
What tiles can be used for cladding
Ceramic tiles are the most accessible way finishing, but also very stable in operation. Even at the production stage, the tile is subjected to heat treatment - the pattern is baked at a temperature of 480-500C. Such material is resistant to temperature peaks, does not burst when exposed to water, and is easy to clean. Since the choice of adhesives and mixtures is also huge, it will not be difficult to tile the stove with your own hands.
Video 1 Wall tiling with ceramic tiles
So, what kind of tiles can be laid over the stove and fireplace, in addition to the standard one:
Unglazed with a characteristic roughness on the front side. It is made from refractory clay and fired at a temperature of 500C. The color is uniform throughout the lot, the natural color range varies from creamy to rich terracotta.
A more expensive and improved sample, which is made according to the principle similar to terracotta, but on front side drawing is applied and additionally fired. Not so long ago, it was extremely expensive to overlay a stove with majolica tiles.
Tile- a unique, primordially Slavic material for finishing furnaces. The technology for manufacturing such material has been developed since the first half of the 17th century, when the reliefs of monasteries and churches began to be decorated with wide tiles.
Today, baked clay is used for production, which is then glazed and baked at a temperature of 1150C. They can be embossed, smooth, glazed or raw. For easy fastening back side issued in the form of a box (rumpa).
If in the case of terracotta and majolica, you can simply cover the stove with ceramic tiles, then the tiles are laid out even at the construction stage.
Refractory tiles used from a mixture of chamotte powder, clay and appropriate mineral dyes. Can be used for external and interior decoration. It is characterized by high strength and resistance to damage.
Especially durable tile material, which is made from the composition of clay, sand, fine marble and granite waste. Fired at a temperature of 5500C, it is characterized by a monolithic structure and resistance to abrasion and damage. Used to imitate more expensive materials.
Porcelain stoneware and clinker are the most durable in the range of materials, but also the heaviest. For their laying, a separate technology and a special adhesive composition are used. Masonry always starts from the bottom and moves evenly up to the ceiling.
Since ceramic tiles are the most popular and inexpensive material for decorating furnaces (see video), it is worth starting with it.
Preparatory process
Necessary tools and materials:
- mallet (rubber mallet);
- tile cutter, grinder and string;
- drill;
- level and plumb;
- spatulas;
- metal brush;
- ceramic tile;
- mesh for reinforcement, fiberglass;
- heat-resistant primer;
- heat-resistant glue for stoves and fireplaces;
- nails with dowels;
- crosses for seams;
- white or colored grout.
It is forbidden to tile the oven immediately after its laying. It must take at least 5-6 months, including the heating season, for the oven to shrink technically. During the operation of the furnace, not only the solution is pressed, but also “crawl out” weak spots- gaps, holes, etc. that can be repaired.
- You clean the surface of the furnace from dust, dirt and cement residues - first you just wipe it with a dry cloth, then you clean it with a metal mesh or rub it with a grinder. Finally, the walls are washed from dust. Pay special attention to the seams between the bricks, they should be thoroughly cleaned.
- Apply a primer mixture, be sure to refractory.
- After the primer dries, level the walls with a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 3: 1. Recommended brand of cement M400. The wall must be absolutely flat, including the seams. You check each stack with a level or a plumb line. After drying, rub with a wooden float for better adhesion.
- Fix the reinforcing mesh, and better, of course, fiberglass. This is a thinner and stronger analogue, which does not give additional weight, unlike the mesh, and also securely fastens the bases. Use nails to secure.
Step by step diagram and video
At this stage of work, the most important thing is not to rush and check each tile with a level - any distortion in the future will come out sideways, both literally and figuratively.
Preparation of the adhesive solution
We note right away that the modern arsenal of refractory adhesives is too large to do it yourself, but real craftsmen lay tiles exclusively on cement-sand mortar in the proportion of 3 parts of M400 cement and 1 part of sand. For a good bond, you should add ordinary rock salt.
Laying out the first row
This is the most important, load-bearing row. Apply glue (read - solution) with a notched trowel on a 3-4 mm thick tile, hold for a few seconds and apply to the base. Press lightly, fix, check the level for perfect evenness and move on to another tile. Now we use crosses - put 2 on the edge and 1 on the intersection. By the same principle, bring the row to the end around the entire perimeter.
Be sure to check each tile with a building level - horizontally and vertically. Correcting the wrong masonry will already be almost impossible - you will have to knock down and start over.
Lay out all other rows
Also, alternately apply glue / solution to each, hold for 3-4 seconds, press, check, put crosses. If the tile does not fit into the row completely, mark where to cut and remove the unnecessary part with a tile cutter. Do not throw away the leftovers, they can come in handy.
Photo 2 Laying tiles on the oven
To do this, use a special composition or adhesive/solution residues. The composition, of course, is much more preferable, because you can pick up a certain color and make it more contrasting. The seams are rubbed a day after the completion of the masonry work. First, remove all the crosses, and then apply the grout with a soft rubber spatula. Do this very carefully and so that there is no free space left.
Remove excess grout immediately after application. If it has time to dry, it will have to be chipped, which may cause cracks.
Final
After you have rubbed all the seams, damp, but not wet, go over the entire tile with a cloth. Remove the remnants, but do not touch the actual seams, so as not to remove the still fresh solution. After an hour and a half, depending on the temperature in the room, do the same, but with a damp sponge and carefully treat the surface near the seams. After another 2 hours, wash the entire tile so that there is no white coating left on it.
You can heat the stove only after 7-10 days and not at full power.
Separately, we should talk about how to overlay tiles near the stove so that it is a single ensemble and additional fire protection.
The principle of work is similar to laying ceramics. You also completely clean the surface in front of the oven, treat it with an antiseptic, primer, apply a cement-sand mortar and lay out the tiles. Fix each with a mallet and be sure to check the level. This type of work is carried out last.
Features of ceramic tiles
Many, along with how to properly tile the stove, are interested in working with tiles. The main process corresponds to ceramics, but certain nuances are distinguished, namely:
- Unlike analogues, the tiles are first laid out on the floor in front of the stove, then the front part follows in order, then the end, and only at the very end - the corners.
- Since tiles, as well as majolica, most often come with a certain pattern, before starting laying, they should be laid out on the floor or other work surface and numbered. Further work goes in order.
- It is best to cut along the string - mark the place of the cut, make small cuts on both sides and saw it. In this case, there will be practically no chips.
- Even if the base is laid out on the mortar, heat-resistant silicone should be used to fix the corners. The corners of the oven are the critical area where the main expansion enters, so the adhesive backing must be slightly movable.
That's all we wanted to tell. Now you know how to tile a stove or fireplace with your own hands, what materials to use and in what sequence. If you follow the technology and take your time, in just a few days your design will change beyond recognition.
Tiled stoves - photo
How to overlay the stove with different tiles and on which solution with your own hands - video:
