Types of grout for tiles and application technology. How to grout the seams of ceramic cladding We rub tiles with our own hands

Quality styling tiles still does not guarantee its long service life. Therefore, a very important stage is the grouting of joints between ceramic products. It is from this final step that the final quality of the work done directly depends, appearance compositions, her operational capabilities as well as durability. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the features of the room where the tiles are installed, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

The seams between tiles represent the gap or distance at the junction from one ceramic element to another. There are certain and generally accepted standards according to which the technology of laying tiles is carried out. The gap left between the parts is approximately 2 to 5 mm. However, these indicators take into account only the average parameters of the tile, and the larger it is, the wider the seams should remain.

This approach carries a rational grain, which is due to a purely practical aspect. In addition, it is necessary to wipe the seam in the bathroom in order to exclude the penetration of moisture, which is detrimental to the base of the bathroom floor. As a result, it is the seams that are responsible for the condition and how long the shower room will be in. Here are some other advantages of competent grouting:

  • improves ventilation of the base of the wall or floor;
  • the displacement of the tile is leveled;
  • protection against water, dirt, fungus;
  • reliable adhesion of all surfaces;
  • attractive appearance.

Choosing a solution

It is necessary to wipe the seam correctly so that no troubles occur during operation. To do this, you need to choose a quality composition that has high characteristics. Today, this aspect is given less attention than required, however, this can lead to very sad consequences. To choose the right mixture, it is worthwhile to select according to the following parameters:

Wall joints between tiles can be treated with standard grout, special grout or varnish. After a certain period of time, the bathroom coating loses its qualities, so you should choose a special mixture, characterized by reliable adhesion of the composition to the surfaces. Thus, a composition having a loose structure is not suitable here.

We prepare the solution

Under the elimination of seams, mixtures packaged at the enterprise are usually used. On the one hand, it is very convenient, fast, and the selection takes a minimum of time, and is carried out for each specific case. In addition, being in its original packaging, the powder, unlike liquid solutions or varnish, can be stored for quite a long time. After all, it is not always possible to calculate the first time right amount material. Therefore, the mixture is poured gradually, adjusting the density of the solution.

On the other hand, manufacturing companies offer ready-made and packaged formulations in special containers. Weak side this method of application - the impossibility of storing opened packages, i.e. you will have to use the entire mass or throw out an unused amount of grout. Thus, kneading the composition for the seams on your own is much more profitable than purchasing finished products.

At present, making a grout mass with your own hands is quite simple. An alabaster blank and a certain amount of water will do. Some time after stirring, a white substance is formed, which is applied to the seam. However, when dried, the mass may crumble, which makes it impossible to use it on a long-term basis. Silicone, gypsum additives or varnish will not fundamentally change the situation.

Worth knowing! For the preparation of high-quality grout, it is best to have the necessary experience. Otherwise, the resulting mass will be of poor quality, which will lead to its crumbling after drying. It might be better to go with the purchase option.

How to apply?

In order to qualitatively wipe the seams between the tiles, you need to prepare the following list of tools:

  • a small rubber spatula;
  • capacity;
  • water;
  • foam sponge;
  • tassel;
  • mixer.

Filling the container with water, it is necessary to add a grout solution to it in small portions. Under this case, you will need a medium-sized container, with the exception of when working with large volumes. The mixture is brought to a homogeneous state and applied to the surface with a trowel or spatula. It goes something like this:

  • cleaning the base from debris, dirt;
  • treatment with agents directed against microorganisms;
  • seams are wetted with a wet brush for reliable adhesion;
  • prepare some mastic and apply it to the seam;
  • carefully tamp the mortar between the tiles with a spatula;
  • if there are no voids, then remove the excess;
  • after the solution dries, moisten it with water - this will avoid cracks;
  • must be applied to the seams between the baseboard and the wall.

Need to know! Grouting the seams on the wall and floor carries certain differences. For example, the wall surface should be processed from top to bottom, and the sealant is applied last. Flooring is filled from the far corner to the exit, by analogy with laying tiles.

Let the bath dry for 24 hours, then re-treat with protective agents against exposure, rot, mold, fungus. This will significantly reduce the risk of the appearance of various microorganisms for the most vulnerable areas. One way or another, moisture will accumulate on the surface of the bathroom floor, naturally, for it, the seam on the tile will be like a channel for a river. Thus, to complete the work, it remains simply to apply epoxy.

After the bathroom has been purchased final view you need to take care of the attractive appearance of the room. You can use a tile grout marker to remove traces of putty. Usually the surface is rubbed in 2-3 approaches, if the mastic is not yet completely dry, cleaning is postponed until it is completely dry.

The remains of the solution on the ceramics are removed with water and a spatula. Wet the excess and then gently scrape it up with a scraper. The remaining stains are removed with a damp cloth or sponge. If the tile has ribbed or uneven surface then cleaning is done with a toothbrush. At the final stage, it is better to use a glass cleaner that polishes the surface well.

Need to know! It is necessary to clean the mastic that has not yet fully hardened, otherwise it will be very difficult to soak it, and for products with a relief surface this becomes very difficult.

Caring for bathroom ceramics is, for obvious reasons, different from a normal room. About once every two months it is necessary to carry out a thorough cleaning here using special detergents or folk products in the form of lemon, vinegar, soap and others. Bleaching is carried out using hydrogen peroxide and soda. They do an excellent job with harmful microorganisms, dirt and fungus.

Video instruction

The grout is applied to the seams of the tiles to hide the small chips and notches remaining on the edges of the facing material. Silicone and epoxy compounds protect walls from the accumulation of moisture and fungus, cement varieties improve adhesion between individual fragments. Jointing begins with a choice quality material, preparation of a plastic solution and preparation of sutures for the procedure.

Grout varieties

The seams in the living room and bedroom are treated with cement mixtures. They consist of a binder obtained from gypsum and clinker, colored pigments and additives that are responsible for the rapid hardening of the paste and its plasticity. Cement-based grouts are inexpensive, have a variety of colors, but are not resistant to moisture. Compositions are rarely used to process seams in the bathroom. Instead of water, a latex plasticizer is added to the solution, which will be in regular contact with various liquids and steam.

Seams in rooms with increased level humidity is rubbed with epoxy. The composition of the powders includes hardeners and pigmented resins. Epoxy grouts are expensive, but they are resistant to dirt and detergents, do not absorb moisture. Solutions prepared from pigmented resins are thick and viscous, so only professionals who have repeatedly sealed joints between tiles can handle them.

Corner and deformed seams are treated with silicone sealants. They are not as durable as cement and epoxy mortars, but they have several advantages:

  • mask the defects of the facing material;
  • resistant to moisture;
  • have antifungal properties.

Silicone sealants come in a variety of colors, but over time they can turn yellow. The solutions are elastic, but with regular contact with food, they become loose and gradually begin to crumble.

Seams up to 5 mm wide are rubbed with cement or epoxy mixtures. Large joints between tiles are sealed with compounds that contain sand. The additive increases the strength of the grout, but makes the surface of the joints rough. Solutions with sand come in only two shades: gray and white.

The composition of quality mixtures should include:

  • impregnation;
  • varnishes;
  • cement;
  • latex.

The components provide the elasticity and strength of the paste. Bath and kitchen grouts should contain antifungal agents.

Solution preparation

Beginners can buy liquid mixtures in hardware stores that do not need to be diluted with water. It is enough to open the package and seal the joints. But ready-made formulations are expensive and stored less than dry powders for the preparation of solutions.

Usually, 250-300 ml of water is taken per 1 kg of dry mix. Some manufacturers have different proportions than the standard. Before preparing the solution, you need to carefully study the instructions, which indicate the ratio of the workpiece and the liquid.

The grout is mixed with water in a clean bucket or basin. If old cement or other solutions remain on the walls of the container, they will react with the grout, its elasticity and tightness will decrease.

Pour 50–60 ml of water into a bucket. Add a quarter of the grout, knead the mass with a spatula or hands. The paste is brought to homogeneity. Gradually pour in water, then pour out a new portion of the powder. The finished solution is infused for 10-15 minutes, and then applied to the prepared seams.

Liquid grout should not be stored for more than 12-24 hours. It becomes covered with a film, becomes unusable. It is better to mix as much powder and water as needed per 1.5 square meters. m.

Seam preparation

The gaps after removing the fixing crosses are cleaned of the remnants of tile adhesive and dirt. The dried mortar is scraped off the edges of the facing material with a spatula or clerical knife. Instead of tools with an iron blade, they use wooden stick. It does not leave nicks and scratches, but slows down the process.

Tile adhesive is removed not only from the edges, but also directly from the seams. A spatula with a pointed blade or a screwdriver will do. The tool should penetrate to a depth of 5–6 mm. Gaps after processing with a spatula are cleaned with a stiff brush or paint brush. She will remove the remnants of debris and glue.

The floors and walls are vacuumed after the hardened mortar is removed. This is one of better ways cleaning the seams from building chips, glue and dirt. After the gaps between the tiles, wipe with a damp cloth or soft sponge. When they dry, start applying the grout.

If the surface of the tile is porous, cover the edges with masking tape. Use a tape 3-5 mm wide, which is glued along the seams. It is difficult to wash porous ceramics from grout residues; you will have to paint over the spots with special compounds. It's easier and cheaper to buy a roll of tape.

Application and tamping

The seams on the wall are overwritten after 7 days, when the tile adhesive has completely hardened. The gaps between the tiles before work are moistened with water. The liquid is applied with a thin brush. Moisture ensures adhesion of the grout to the substrate.

The seams on the floor in the bathroom or kitchen are covered up after a day. The owners of the apartment cannot forget about the existence of these rooms for the whole 7 days. They regularly use the toilet, stove and sink, bring dirt and debris into the room. It gets into the seams and reduces their hygiene and tightness.

The gaps between the tiles before grouting are treated with antifungal compounds. The preparations are applied after cleaning the seams from building glue and dust. Leave for a day until dry. Apply the grout with a rubber spatula. Additionally you will need:

  • a bucket of warm clean water without detergents;
  • large sponge with hard surface;
  • cable with a diameter of 0.5 mm smaller size seam.

A thick paste for grouting gaps between the plates is poured into a small tray or bowl, which is convenient to hold with one hand. The second compresses the spatula. A little mass is scooped up with a tool and applied to the seam. The grout is rammed with a rubber blade so that voids do not form between the dried mass and the wall. The smaller the portion of the paste, the easier it is to distribute it over the gap between the tiles.

Well-packed grout is elastic and dense. Beginners will realize that there are no more voids when the spatula cannot penetrate the joint filled with paste. The tool will meet resistance.

The remains of the grout are removed with a spatula, which is set perpendicular to the seam. The rubber blade moves slowly down or to the side. Excess paste is returned to the grout container. Divorces are not washed off immediately, but after 20-30 minutes.

Seams after processing are left to dry. The paste will take 20 minutes to become plastic. Until the grout has completely hardened, the formation and jointing of the gaps between the tiles is carried out.

Dip a clean sponge or rag into a bucket of warm water and wring it out thoroughly. If there is too much liquid left in the rag, it will soak into the grout. Moisture is the cause of bright spots on the seams. They stand out against the background of a paler grout and look ugly.

Sponge dipped in water is carried out along the gap between the tiles. A hard surface will remove the top layer of grout, because it should be 0.2–0.3 mm lower than the edge of the tile. With a rag, wipe off the remaining paste from the ceramic surface until it dries. After each processed seam, the sponge is dipped into a bucket and rinsed. The foam blank, on which the grout remains, washes out the dried paste and leads to deformation of the seam.

It is not necessary to grout the gaps between the tiles. The procedure is designed to form flat and smooth seams without depressions and pits. You will need a cable 15–20 cm long. Before work, the workpiece is washed or wiped with a damp cloth so that dirty stains or stains do not remain on the surface of the grout.

The cable is lightly pressed with a finger into the plastic paste and carried out to the corner of the tile. The grout that has come out of the seam is removed with a damp sponge. If the mass has become bumpy, you need to run the cable through it a second time. The pits and depressions left after the jointing are carefully sealed with fresh grout. Prepare a small portion of thick mastic and apply to problem areas with your fingers. Press in and leave to dry. If there is too much grout, there may be areas that differ in color from the rest.

Final processing

Mastic that has come out of the seams is swept away with a dry rag. Paste particles that have had time to dry are removed from the ceramic surface with a grater. The tool is shaped like a wide scraper with a rubber nozzle.

The grater moves diagonally. The wide blade is positioned perpendicular to the seam. Pieces of putty that have separated from the wall are removed from the tool by hand. It is impossible for lumps of mastic to fall into the gaps between the facing material. They can damage the dried grout layer, and you will have to re-treat the seams.

Important: It is very difficult to remove dried paste from embossed or glossy tiles. It is recommended to remove the remains of the grout immediately, before they have hardened, and wipe the edges of the tile with a rag or toothbrush.

The ceramic surface is cleaned of mastic residues with a damp sponge or rag. Wet grout removal is carried out 20-30 minutes after the paste has been removed with a grater. The glossy shine of the tiles will be returned by special solutions, which include:

  • lemon juice;
  • ammonia;
  • table or apple cider vinegar;
  • mustard powder;
  • salt;
  • toothpaste;
  • detergent.

One component or a cocktail of several ingredients is diluted with water. The sponge is moistened in the solution and carried out along the wall. If a stretching trace of the color of the grout remains on the surface of the tile, you need to wait another 10-15 minutes.

Sponge is carried out on a ceramic surface, removing the remnants of mastic. The foam blank is rinsed after each tile so that no stains remain. When the old solution becomes dirty, prepare a portion of the new one.

After wet cleaning, carefully inspect the seams and fill the grooves left after the sponge. Wait until the grout dries, then polish the ceramic surface with a dry, soft cloth to restore the tile to its former shine.

The mastic is covered with a layer of silicone sealant until it dries completely. Protective material must be used for processing seams in the bathroom and kitchen. Translucent paste prevents the appearance of fungus. The sealant is applied with a thin brush if only the seams need to be processed. The foam roller grips both grout and ceramic tiles.

Clean and dry facing material is polished. Spray the surface with a glass and mirror cleaner, and then wipe the tile with a soft cloth until it begins to shine.

Even a beginner can fill the gaps between the facing material with mastic. The instructions will tell you how to prepare the grout of the correct consistency. Hands will get used to the spatula in 5-10 minutes, and after half an hour the beginner will determine by eye how much paste to put in the seam. The main thing is not to be afraid of tools and follow the recommendations so that everything works out.

Video: a master class on grouting floor tiles

Floor repair is always accompanied by laying the finish coat. And this must be done in such a way that it pleases the eye, is practical and serves for a long time. different conditions: in apartments and houses, at enterprises, in shopping centers, offices, various organizations. Here is a worthy result of the work. Technologies worked out over the centuries and many years of experience of builders allow us to successfully solve this problem, choose the right materials, for example, in rooms with high humidity or high traffic.

Tiles are often used as a finishing decorative coating. not only for the floor, but also for walls, countertops, other surfaces, for facade work. It is one of the most practical and durable materials. A variety of textures, a rich palette of shades, the ability to combine and create various effects enable designers to create beautiful and stylish compositions that amaze the imagination.

What is the grout for?

An important component of styling decorative tiles is grouting tile joints.

The grout performs the following functions:

  • Fills the seams between tiles, masks bumps, chips and other minor defects.
  • It acts as a waterproofing agent, preventing the penetration of water and moisture under the tiles and the destruction of the floor and walls.
  • Prevents the growth of bacteria, the formation of mold, fungus.
  • Bonds the entire surface, gives a complete and neat look.
  • It can act as a decorative element, making a bright contrast to the tile, emphasizing its geometry.

Grouts are sold as a dry mix for dilution with water or in hermetically sealed jars in the form of a thick paste.

Training

The tile is laid, aged for 7 days - the time after laying, during which the tile adhesive dries completely, now you can start grouting.

For this you need:

  • Remove fixing crosses.
  • Clean the edges and seams of debris, dirt, dust, tile adhesive residues with a spatula or screwdriver.
  • Vacuum and damp mop.
  • Dry the surface.
  • On porous clinker tiles, masking tape must be glued along the edges. Grout does not rub off porous tiles well.

An important stage of preparation is right choice grouting and calculation of material consumption

Composition selection

Grouts differ in their composition and characteristics, features of use.

When choosing, consider the following parameters:

  • Width of tile gaps.
  • Humidity level and room temperature.
  • The presence of chemically aggressive environments, detergents.
  • High permeability, various mechanical loads.
  • UV exposure.
  • The texture and color of the tiles.

Grout mixtures are divided into several types.

  • cement grout has two subspecies: sand-cement and Portland cement. Sand-cement consists of fine sand and cement, of all types it is the most affordable, used for joints with a width of more than 5 mm. The gritty abrasive structure scratches smooth surfaces and is therefore not compatible with glazed tiles. The cement-sand mixture gradually crumbles, can absorb moisture, crack. If it is necessary to remove from the joints, these properties will help to easily clean the gaps between the tiles. You can reduce the shedding of tiles by treating the dried seams with hydrophobic impregnations.

The second subspecies contains cement, various plasticizing, polymeric and drying-retarding additives. This grout is used to fill narrower joints, 3-5 mm wide. You can enhance the waterproofing properties by diluting the powder not with water, but with liquid latex. The properties of the mixture allow it to be used on glazed types of tiles, the plasticizers in the composition make filling the joints easier and better. Cement grouts are recommended for use in dry rooms.

This type of paste is not used in conditions of exposure to aggressive chemical substances, permanent exposure to water, for example, in production with the use of acids, in swimming pools. The finished mixture sets quickly, so it must be used within 2 hours after dilution.

  • Grout based on furan or epoxy resin. Furan resin, which is the base, is mixed with a special hardener and is mainly used in industrial premises with heavy loads and difficult operating conditions.

Epoxy resin and hardener can be combined with sand, coloring pigment, Portland cement.

The cost of such a mixture is higher, but the advantages are obvious:

  • Absolute resistance to moisture and water, ultraviolet, easy to clean, does not absorb dirt, does not fade.
  • Neutrality to chemical and temperature effects, used in baths, pools, bathrooms.
  • Resistance to abrasion and other mechanical stress.
  • High decorative. Glitter, silver and gold powder and sand, mother-of-pearl, luminescent compositions are added to the mixture, which makes it possible to achieve various visual effects.

Epoxy grout is mixed immediately before work in small portions, its setting time is from 5 to 20 minutes. This is a viscous material, its application requires quick work and skills.

  • Polyurethane or polymer. Sold in finished form and is an aqueous dispersion of polymer resins, to which pigments are added. This mixture is easy to apply with a special syringe and tolerates sudden temperature changes, such as turning on and off an underfloor heating system, where tiles are often used as a topcoat due to their heat transfer properties.

  • Silicone sealants used for joints between a kitchen sink and countertop tiles, laminate and floor tiles. For aquariums and bathtubs.
  • Special grouts with specific properties, for example, heat-resistant mixtures of fireclay clay and cement for the manufacture of furnaces.

How to calculate quantity?

The composition is selected, you can go to the store, buy the mixture and grout the seams on the tile. There is a special formula by which the consumption of the grout mixture is calculated in kilograms per 1 m2.

Consumption (kg / m2) \u003d (A + B) / (A + B) x H x D x Coefficient. x 10%

In this formula:

  • A is the length of the tile, mm.
  • B - width, mm.
  • H is the thickness, mm.
  • D – joint width, mm.
  • Coef. - coefficient of density of the grout mixture. Equal to 1.5-1.8.

Preparing the mixture

To dilute the solution from a dry powder, you need a small clean container and a drill with a mixer nozzle. Mixtures are diluted with water or liquid latex strictly according to the instructions on the packaging of a specific grout. Usually take about 200-300 ml of water per 1 kg of dry ingredients. Water is added little by little, mixed, then another portion is added, so the whole mixture is gradually prepared. By consistency, it should resemble sour cream. If you pour more water than the norm, too liquid mixture it will crack, and very thick - it will not fill the entire seam, and voids will remain.

The mixture is thoroughly mixed with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Epoxy and polymer can be mixed with colored pigment or various decorative additives according to the intent of the customer or designer.

It is better to dilute the first batch in a small amount in order to check the consumption, the quality of the mixture, the setting speed. If a ready-made grout is purchased, you need to set aside part of the finished paste in another smaller container, tightly closing the lid of the factory jar. It is impossible to store the finished solution for a long time, as it is covered with a film and loses its properties. Then you can't use it anymore. It is recommended to dilute the portion so as to wipe 1.5 m2.

Before rubbing, the seams are moistened by wiping with a wet sponge; it is not necessary to treat the surface with a primer.

Process details

Moisture, which is applied to the gaps between the seams, provides better adhesion when applying the mixture. For glazed types of tiles, this procedure is optional.

In rooms of constant use (in the toilet, bathroom, in the kitchen), you can start grouting the seams 1 day after laying the tiles, so as not to torment the residents for a whole week. In other rooms, you must wait 7 days, and only then do the grout. Before the main work, it is necessary to treat the gaps with an antifungal compound. After processing, the composition dries up within a day.

The epoxy mixture is chemically aggressive, in order to work with it, protective equipment is needed. Epoxy putty must be sealed very quickly and deftly, otherwise it will harden and become unusable.

To apply polymer pastes, you need a syringe, which you can do yourself. To do this, you need to take a tight plastic bag and cut off its corner so that you get a small hole for the polymer to exit. Then put a little mixture and squeeze out, filling the tile joints.

What will be needed?

For work, you should prepare the following tool:

  • A clean small container in which a portion of the solution is mixed can be used in a tray.
  • Drill with mixing attachment for thorough mixing of ingredients.
  • A basin of warm clean water to wet the seams before work.
  • A rubber spatula that fills the gaps, or a trowel.
  • Large hard sponge, paint brush for wetting and sweeping debris and dust.
  • Clean cloth, preferably soft.
  • Personal chemical protection equipment: respirator, goggles and rubber gloves.
  • A piece of electrical cable with a diameter slightly less than the width of the seam or a special shaper to give the seams a beautiful shape.
  • For polyurethane formulations included special agent for cleaning tiles and sponge.

Application guide

To correctly joint the floor and walls, you need to know the basic rules.

They are suitable for both cement mixtures and polyurethane:

  • The movements during rubbing do not go along the edge of the tile, but across, perpendicular to the seam, first a horizontal strip is made on the wall, and then a vertical one.
  • Dilute or collect ready-made pasta in small portions, covering an area of ​​​​approximately 1.5 m2.
  • Apply a lump of the mixture to the gap area and push more paste into the seam to fill all the voids and cover the corners as much as possible. When the entire gap is filled, the spatula will begin to meet a certain resistance.
  • Do not forget to wet the edges, keep the grout at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the tile.
  • Run along the seam 3-4 times, carefully rubbing the grout, then the mixture will fill the entire gap.
  • Excess solution must be removed immediately with a spatula.

After 5-15 minutes, the seams will dry out a little, but will not harden completely, then you can level the seams with a hard sponge, evenly pressing on it so that the grout layer is 0.2 - 0.3 mm lower than the general level of the tile. The sponge should not be heavily moistened so that dark spots do not appear on the surface of the seams. Against the background of a lighter main tone, they look messy and can ruin the whole look of the finished tile. It is necessary to rinse the sponge after each formed seam. You can give the seam a neat look with a shaper or a piece of cable.

With a special sponge, you need to wash off the stains, the remnants of the solution from the tile, after hardening it will be much more difficult to do. Special detergents are used to remove excess polyurethane grout. After a day, the surface will completely dry and harden. You can wash the tiles clean with any detergent.

Epoxy paste is more difficult to rub in, as it is more viscous and quickly hardens. If you do not have time to remove the remnants, you will have to cut them off with a knife. It is recommended to entrust the application of such pastes to experienced professionals. If you decide to apply yourself, you can first practice on a small area, test the mixture for setting time and prepare all cleaning aids at once.

After the grout has completely dried, it is treated with various impregnations to improve operational properties. Impregnations increase the water-repellent properties of the seams, strengthen them, prevent the appearance of mold and fungus, improve general form. You can apply the impregnation with a thin brush.

In corners and various hard-to-reach places, it is necessary to rub the seams with a special small spatula. The gaps between the bathroom, sink, shower and tiles are recommended to cover up silicone sealant for reliability and better waterproofing. To prevent silicone from staining the tile, protect the edge with masking tape. Apply sealant and level the seam with a wet spatula. Then remove the excess silicone, and peel off the masking tape.

To achieve a glossy beautiful shine on the tile, you can prepare your own solution from the following ingredients:

  • Toothpaste.
  • Lemon juice.
  • Detergent for dishes.
  • Ammonia.
  • Salt.
  • Mustard powder.
  • Table vinegar 6%.

30 minutes after jointing, one or more components are taken, mixed and diluted with water. Then moisten a soft sponge in the solution and wipe the surface of the tile. At the slightest turbidity of the solution, a replacement follows, we take a new clean portion. Then additionally rub with a dry cloth after complete drying. You can spray glass and mirror cleaner on the tiles.

Grout cracking can begin at any stage, even during the application of the mixture. Such deformation of hardening joints is most often encountered when using cement mortar.

There are several reasons for cracking:

  • The dilution and mixing of the grout mixture was not carried out according to the instructions, the proportion of the ingredients was violated.
  • Hit on the solidifying surface of hot water.
  • The solution is very liquid, a lot of water has been added.
  • The base of the floor under the tiles is not sufficiently rigid, for example, wood.

In this case, you need to urgently correct the situation, otherwise the entire gap will crumble over time. You can clean the gap and update the seam, but the cracks will appear again. Experienced craftsmen recommend rubbing dry powder into a cracked grout. Add dry ingredients to the remaining portion, mix quickly.

To prevent destruction, when preparing the composition, it is necessary to achieve uniformity, the viscosity should be medium. After mixing the solution, wait 5 minutes, then stir thoroughly again. Do not open windows and vents for ventilation, use hot water when wetting.

It is important to carefully read the instructions, observe the indicated proportions.

After laying tiles on the floor or walls, work on the installation of high-quality cladding does not end. First of all, it is necessary to grout the joints using special mixtures. High-quality performance of this stage of work allows you to give the surface the desired aesthetics. Incorrectly worn seams, on the contrary, will spoil the appearance of the tile, even if it is laid perfectly.

How to choose the right grout?

Grout mixtures are designed to protect the adhesive composition and the tile itself from the negative effects external environment. Moisture can penetrate under the tile, which can destroy the coating.

With the help of grout, a sealed surface is formed, which is resistant to various negative influences.

Therefore, the joints on the tiles must be filled with a mixture that meets the following requirements:

  • homogeneity. The made or ready solution should not include any foreign elements, including air bubbles. This will achieve the most even surface that does not contain any defects;
  • elasticity. The solution should fit well into the seam easily, without additional effort;
  • high strength. High-quality seams are not erased and resistant to mechanical damage;
  • hydrophobicity or the ability to repel moisture.

Types of grouts

To fill the joints of tiles on the floor or walls, the following types of mixtures can be used:

  • based on epoxy resin. It also contains in its composition special hardeners, which provide greater strength and resistance to various aggressive substances of the tile joint;
  • based on cement. It is sold as a dry powder, which is usually diluted with water before use. There are also ready-made mixtures, but they are much more expensive. The seams on the tile formed with the help of this composition will be strong and wear-resistant.

What tools are needed to carry out the work?

To qualitatively fill each seam between the tiles, you need to prepare the following tools:

  • a set of rubber spatulas that will be needed while working with ceramic tiles when filling seams;
  • containers for preparing a solution, if a dry mix was purchased;
  • trowel;
  • construction knife, which will be needed to remove the remaining tile adhesive in the seams;
  • paint brush for cleaning from dust and dirt;
  • a rag or sponge for finishing surface preparation;
  • personal protective equipment for working with aggressive mixtures (if necessary) - goggles, a respirator, rubber gloves.

Preparatory stage of work

How to properly fill the joints between individual tiles? First of all, you need to choose optimal time to complete all work. If you are grouting them for the first time, you may not know that you can start the task only after the tile adhesive has completely dried. This can take from 8 to 48 hours, which is influenced by many factors.

When the coating is completely dry, it is necessary to start cleaning the grooves on the surface from adhesive residue. It is necessary to achieve smooth seams, otherwise the quality of the grout will be low. To do this, first use a construction knife, which allows you to get rid of large pieces of mortar. To remove dust and small fragments, it is recommended to use a paint brush, and for final cleaning - a sponge moistened with water.

How to prepare grout?

When the surface is ready for further processing, you can start preparing the grout. If the finished mixture in buckets is used, this stage of work is missed. Otherwise, water at room temperature is poured into a suitable container, where the powder from the pack is poured. In this case, the proportions specified by the manufacturer should be used.

The connection of the components of the solution is best done using a drill with a special nozzle in the form of a mixer. If this is not available, you can use an ordinary wooden stick. In any case, the solution should be homogeneous, free of lumps or other foreign matter.

During operation, a small portion of the grout should be prepared. It hardens quickly, making it difficult to apply. Therefore, it is better to prepare a fresh portion each time from a small amount of powder.

How to prepare grout for joints between tiles

How do professional craftsmen grout tile joints? To make this process as easy as possible, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with plain water. It will increase its adhesion, which will also improve the quality of the hardened mixture. Water is usually applied with a paint brush, and over a large area with a spray gun.

Also, many experts prefer to use a deep penetration primer. It will prevent the formation of fungus on the surface, which very often happens in rooms with high humidity.

The grout laying technology is as follows:

  • spatula movements - perpendicular to the joints, which will ensure their high-quality filling;
  • grout is applied as quickly as possible, but carefully;
  • they try to push the mixture inward;
  • after filling the groove, it is recommended to walk with the sharp end of the spatula over the surface, and then once again make stroke-like movements to better fill the entire space;
  • on the floor, you can use a special grout. It is held at an angle of 30 degrees and moves diagonally, which leads to an even distribution of the solution.

How to use a trowel bag?

When working with hard-to-reach surfaces, it is recommended to use a special trowel bag. He has very simple design and resembles a tool for decorating cakes with cream. At the end of the bag, a tip is fixed, which has the same diameter as the size of the joint between the tiles.

During operation, it is necessary to place the tube in the seam and sequentially fill it with a solution. It is best to close the groove along its entire length, and not work with a separate zone. This will ensure that an even layer is obtained without voids and defects.

First, they usually fill all the vertical joints, after which they work with the horizontal ones. Each time it is recommended to release a little more mixture than necessary. After the mortar has set, it must be carefully compacted with a metal tube, the diameter of which is greater than the distance between the tiles. When the mixture has hardened (after about 30 minutes), all residues are removed with a stiff brush.

Surface cleaning

When the grout dries well, all excess must be removed with a grater. It should be held at right angles to the surface and gently moved diagonally. Otherwise, you can spoil some kind of seam by removing part of the grout from it.

Wet cleaning of the surface begins a little later, after the final setting of the mixture. But you don’t have to wait too long, as it will be difficult to remove the grout residues. This should be done with a damp sponge. You can also use a special abrasive grater that does not leave scratches. To achieve a high surface quality, cleaning with water should be carried out several times. In some cases, it can be very difficult to completely get rid of divorces.

Is a sealant necessary?

In rooms that are constantly exposed to the negative effects of moisture, it is recommended to cover the tile joints with a transparent sealant. This will prevent the absorption of water, which quickly destroys the decorative surface.

To perform this operation, it is recommended to use a small brush for the width of the seam. If the sealant will be applied to the tiles, you can take a simple roller. This will speed up the process of work, will allow you to get the thinnest and most even layer.

Video: Grouting tiles

Each master has his own technology of how to properly grout. Consider an example cement grout seams tiles without the help of professionals and craftsmen. That is, with your own hands. I think you will like this technology of do-it-yourself tile jointing.

A well-done grout can mask existing installation defects, while a bad grout can completely ruin the impression of a flawless installation.

The main thing is to do everything correctly and not make mistakes in the work.

For do-it-yourself repairs, cement-based grout is best suited. This is a powder that is diluted with water or liquid latex. Of course, you can pick up a ready-to-use liquid solution in the store, but it costs much more. In addition, in a solution made on your own, you yourself can adjust the density.

Let's start the renovation!

To do the work with our own hands and strength, we need:

A construction mixer will not only save time and effort, but also mix the solution much better.

  • grout for tiles (regular, moisture resistant, colored - depending on your preferences and the room);
  • water (for mixing the grout and washing off unnecessary residues at the end);
  • spatula (preferably rubber, for more convenient processing of seams);
  • construction mixer (to obtain a homogeneous mass without lumps, but you can do without it - stir everything with a stick or spatula);
  • bucket or bowl (any vessel in which the solution can be stirred);
  • sponge (washcloth or ordinary kitchen sponge, in its absence, you can use an ordinary rag).

To form neat seams, you will need a special spatula that will help you achieve beautiful and even lines. Although if such a device was not at hand, do not be discouraged. The seams of the tiles can be corrected with your own hands, more precisely, with your fingers.

Before starting work, check that the adhesive on which the tile was laid is completely dry and carefully clean the tile from debris and dirt. Remove the remaining separators (crosses) between the tiles, as they can spoil the appearance after the work is done.

Back to index

The process of laying grout on a tile

We take a container for stirring the grout, the grout itself and begin to make a solution, stirring the powder with water until a homogeneous mass of thick sour cream is obtained. Please note that the finished mixture tends to harden, that is, if the work area is large enough, you will have to prepare the solution several times.

Important: for better adhesion of the tile to the material, moisten the seams with water using a narrow brush or sponge. But do not overdo it, as excess moisture can cause the grout to crack or fall out of the joints, both at the stage of work and after it has dried. You can also use a garden sprinkler or spray bottle to save time. If there is plumbing next to the tiles, Appliances or other things that you do not want to stain, cover them with masking tape for the duration of the work. Rubber gloves can be used to protect your hands. You can do everything with your bare hands, but be prepared that tile grout dries out the skin very much.

We collect the grout on a rubber spatula and spread it in a small slide on a previously cleaned and prepared wall. We draw the spatula diagonally, holding it at an angle of 30-45 degrees to the tile and trying to fill the seams as much as possible. The stronger the indentation force, the more densely the seam will be filled and the material will grab stronger. The main idea of ​​the whole process is to fill in all the voids and corners around the tiles that are left after laying them as efficiently and correctly as possible. When filling the seams, press the grout into them and immediately wipe off the excess from unnecessary areas. Remember to stir the solution in the bucket from time to time so that it remains as soft and supple before applying it to new areas. According to the technology of grouting tile joints on the walls, you need to move from the top of the wall to the bottom. If you rub the seams on the floor, it will be correct to move from the corner of the room to the exit. Try to do everything as efficiently as possible, quickly and accurately. As you work, you will be able to see for yourself what the drying rate of your solution is, and determine at what speed you should work.

When all the seams are filled, proceed to the stage of removing excess grout from the tile. This time, hold the spatula at a right angle to the tile and scrape off the excess material into a bucket.

Wet the sponge as much as possible, and then test a small area of ​​the cladding surface. The grout in the joints should be elastic and dense, but not hard.

Further, after the initial cleaning, wait 15-30 minutes until the grout dries. After the initial cleaning, the grout should be wet cleaned with a sponge. To determine the readiness of tiles and grout joints For the second cleaning step, wet the sponge and try to clean a small area first. The grout in the joints must remain tight and elastic, but not hard, otherwise the tiles will have to be cleaned with great effort, which can damage the joints. Next, with a damp sponge or cloth, we begin to remove excess grout from the tile in a circular motion. Do not forget to constantly rinse the sponge and wring it out well. How well the tile is cleaned can be seen by the purity of the water in the bucket. Ideally, the seam should be even on top, not convex, even slightly concave. The seams can be trimmed with the edge of the sponge. To do this, run the sponge parallel to the seam, carefully removing the protrusions and filling the recesses with a small amount of grout on your fingertip. It is very important to give all worn tile joints the same shape and depth.

At the end, a final thorough cleaning of the surface of the tiles is done with a damp sponge. If you are unable to remove grout residue with a sponge, use a coarse-bristled brush. Remember, the longer the grout stays on the tiles, the harder it is to remove. The worn seams will finally harden in 5-7 days after grouting the seams with your own hands.

Happy repair!