Are you tired of exhausting from this incredible heat, as well as freezing during the first autumn cold, until the heating is turned on? - Air conditioning will help you. Instructions for installing an air conditioner with your own hands from the site will be a logical continuation of our article, in which we gave advice,.
What parts does an air conditioner installation consist of:
Where to install the air conditioner
Initially, you must determine where you will install the air conditioner and how. You need to start from three factors:
- There should not be too much distance between the outdoor and indoor unit (preferably no more than 3 meters);
- The indoor unit must be positioned so that the airflow coming out of it is not directed towards you;
- The outdoor unit is best mounted in such a way that you have easy access to it.
When you have decided on the location of the indoor unit, consider where the outdoor unit will be mounted. Ideally, it is best to mount it near a window or near a balcony, so you can freely strengthen the outdoor unit, and moreover, you will be able to constantly maintain it. It is also preferable to install the outdoor unit not on the sunny side, but if possible, then in the shade. Sometimes you can see that some people install air conditioning on their balcony, inside - it is illogical to do this for a number of reasons. If necessary, you can order a tower and install an air conditioner in a place that cannot be reached from a window or balcony, but every time you need to order a tower to clean or refuel the air conditioner, which is not rational.
If you have an air conditioner with a capacity of 09 or 12, and you plan for it to work for 2 rooms, then the indoor unit must be installed in such a way that direct air flow enters the 2nd room.
Now you have to think about how the air conditioning communications will go. They can pass both outside and inside the wall. It is difficult to say unequivocally which of these options to choose, since the communications passing inside the wall are more aesthetically pleasing, because they will not be visible. If you carry out communications outside, then you do not need to spend a lot of time making a strobe in the wall for these communications. In turn, we would still advise beginners to carry out communications outside, and hide them in a plastic box.
When you have decided on the place of installation of the air conditioner - we get to work.
Installing the indoor unit
To begin with, attach the indoor unit of the air conditioner to the wall, make sure that nothing will interfere with it and you. In addition, check the symmetry of the indoor unit so that it blends harmoniously with the design and interior of the room. The installation of the indoor unit must be carried out at a distance of at least 15 centimeters from the ceiling in order to ensure free air capture.
In order to hang the indoor unit of the air conditioner on the wall, you need to remove its metal part on the back wall of the indoor unit - the mounting plate (at the same time, practice removing and putting it on). We apply it to the wall and use a pencil to make marks where the fasteners will be. The mounting plate must be fixed in level, if the indoor unit hangs unevenly, then the condensate may not flow into the drain pipe, but will simply start to flow from the air conditioner to the floor. We will fix the indoor unit itself directly to the wall almost at the end. You will also need to determine from which side the communications from the indoor unit will come out and remove the decorative plug from that side.
Next, make a hole in the wall through which 2 copper pipes and an electrical cable will pass, as well as a drainage pipe. To do this, you will need a powerful puncher and a drill of the desired diameter. The opening for the output of communications should be at the level of the bottom of the air conditioner or below. After that, under a slight slope, we make a hole in the wall. When you make a hole, we advise you to collect all the dust with a vacuum cleaner so that it does not scatter throughout the apartment.
And one more little tip: when you make a hole in the wall, that part may break off from it, in the area of \u200b\u200bwhich the hole itself will be made. To prevent such a piece from falling, support a box under something under this section of the wall. When the hole is ready, clean it and proceed to the installation procedure of the indoor unit.
Outdoor unit installation
The next step in installing the air conditioner is the installation of the outdoor unit. The outdoor unit must be hung in such a way that you have free access to its left side (as a rule, communications are connected from the left side). Thus, the outdoor unit is best mounted under the window or to the right of the window. When you have decided on a place, we make markings on the wall of the house with a pencil. It is very important to do the markup according to the level so that the external block hangs absolutely evenly.
To mount the outdoor unit, use special factory brackets, which are sold in many hardware stores. Never use homemade ones. To fasten the brackets, use 16x100 anchors or three-sided expansion dowels with a hex head screw of the same size, there must be at least 2 of them per bracket. Also use washers between brackets and fasteners. The distance between the brackets should be equal to the distance of the feet on the outdoor unit. If you hang the air conditioner on the side, then first fasten the near bracket, and then the far one, so that later you can hold on to the first one.
It is unnecessary to immediately tighten the anchor or screw to the stop, you just need not to tighten it too much, since it is difficult to make the distance between the fasteners ideally in size, and the possibility of a slight movement of the brackets will help to fit them under the legs of the air conditioner. When the brackets are fixed in the wall, we put special rubber pads on the legs of the air conditioner, which will prevent the vibrations of the air conditioner from being transmitted to the brackets and to the wall. Next, we put the outdoor unit on the brackets and fix it with blots with washers. Now check the evenness of the outdoor unit with a level and then tighten the bracket fasteners to the wall. This completes the installation of the outdoor unit.
We draw your attention to the installation procedure of the outdoor unit. This is very dangerous, do not neglect safety. Use safety devices if necessary.
Laying communications
When the external unit is fixed, it is necessary to conduct communications between them, or, as the installers say, “main line”.
Communications include: 2 copper tubes for refrigerant, a metal-plastic tube for drainage, and an electrical cable that will power the outdoor unit. Now let's look at what is needed and why.
We need 2 copper tubes to circulate the refrigerant between the outdoor and indoor units. Liquid refrigerant is supplied through one tube, and through the other it returns in a gaseous state to the outdoor unit. Condensate will drain through the drain pipe from the indoor unit, and the electric cable will power the outdoor unit from the indoor unit, which will control its operation.
As you can see from reverse side air conditioner, there are 2 copper tubes of different diameters, it is them that we will need to lengthen and lead to the external unit. The connection of the tubes and their connection to the outdoor unit will be carried out using nuts. You will have a completely logical question: how to fix the nut on the tube? - It's very simple, flaring is used for this. What is flaring? With a special device, rolling, a conical tip, the edges of the tube expand, which block the nut and are pulled together with another part of the tube. To make it more clear what it is - pay attention to the picture below.
All nuts for connection are already included in the kit: some are on the valves of the outdoor unit, others are put on the plugs behind the indoor unit. We start connecting the pipes from the indoor unit. For this we need 1/4" and 3/8" copper tubes. After that, unscrew one nut from the tube of the indoor unit and remove it from the plug. To do this, take a cutter and cut off part of the tube with it. Cutting must be done as follows: in the right place where you want to cut the tube, tighten the cutter - make one turn of the scroll, tighten the cutter a little - one more turn of the scroll, then tighten the cutter for the last time and do the scroll, after that the tube is cut off. When the tube is cut off, remove the nut from this plug and put it on a tube of the same diameter, after which we flare its end, after making sure that it is even and that there are no burrs.
To flare the tube, it must be clamped into a mold of the required diameter, making a protrusion 2 millimeters beyond its edge, after which the tube is flared. Do this very carefully so that the flare is even and not beveled. As a rule, when the rolling cone rests against the tube, 4 turns of the lever will be enough. Next, we check the flare so that it is even, without cracks and the nut fits snugly against its walls.
When you have done all of the above with one tube, we do the same with the second. After that, we carefully connect the flared ends of the tubes (air conditioner and line) and tighten the nuts.
The next stage of work is measuring the distance from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit, we need this in order to calculate the required length of the main pipes through the hole in the wall. The length of the pipes must match the distance from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit. You can leave a margin of a few centimeters, but not much. Now that we have the required distance, we cut the tubes with a cutter. It is very important to cancel that the tube must be cut strictly exactly, otherwise the connection will not be airtight and depressurization will occur on it. At the same time, their ends must be well insulated so that dirt does not get inside.
Next, we need heat-insulating tubes with a copper diameter, they will absorb condensate, and also distinguish between the main tubes, since they will have different temperatures. We cut off the desired length of the heat-insulating tube and put each of them on the copper ones.
When the tubes are ready - go to the electrician. We take one part of a piece of a copper four-core PVA cable with a cross section of 1.5 per core, we bring it into the external unit and connect it to the terminals. Now we measure the length from the power supply of the indoor unit to the power supply of the external unit. We cut off the required length of the cable and bring it out together with the rest of the communications from the hole of the indoor unit.
The last thing left for us is to connect the drain tube. A drain hose may be used for this, but is not desirable. A drain tube made of metal-plastic will allow you to set the direction where the liquids drain, but due to the flexibility of the hose, this will not work. The drain pipe is attached to the drain pipe coming out of the indoor unit. Its length should be 20-25 centimeters further than the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, so keep this in mind when you cut it off.
All tubes and cable going to the outdoor unit must be wrapped with a special protective thermal insulation tape. You need to start winding from the indoor unit. Wrapping must be done carefully. At the end, we leave approximately 20 centimeters of an unwound section of communications, so that it would be convenient for us to connect them to the external unit, and also so that we can separately conduct a drainage tube. The end of the thermal insulation tape can be fixed with electrical tape. Now we carefully remove all communications from the recess of the indoor unit. The power cord is output separately.
Next, carefully push the communications into the hole in the wall and attach the indoor unit to the mounting plate. Please note that it is necessary to bend the pipes very carefully so as not to bend them, as this will reduce the permeability of the refrigerant and it will be necessary to redo all the pipes again.
Let's move on to outside work. First, we recommend connecting the power cable to the terminals of the outdoor unit. To do this, unscrew the side cover and connect the wires to the same terminals in the same colors as on the indoor unit. Insert the cable into the special groove in the cover and screw it on.
Now, with the help of electrical tape, we fix the drainage tube to the bracket and slightly bend it down, while making sure that the flowing liquid will not fall on someone's visor, air conditioner or antenna.
So, the external unit was powered up, the drainage tube was taken out - it remains only to connect the tubes to the external unit. You probably guessed that you will again need to do pipe flaring. As mentioned above, the pipe nuts are located on the outdoor unit on the valves from above. Now remove the insulation from the end of the tubes that you made after cutting them so that dirt does not get there. Pull back the heat insulating tube slightly to access the end of the copper tube. We remove the nuts from the valves, put them on the tubes and do the flaring - one by one. Next, another rather difficult moment awaits you: connecting the tubes to the external unit. Gently attach one part of the tube to the other and tighten the nuts. It is impossible to confuse the tubes, since they are of different diameters.
When everything is connected, and the drainage tube is fixed, it is necessary to wrap the rest of the tubes with thermal insulation tape. It is necessary to start winding from the same place where we ended it, overlapping. When winding, we release a drainage tube, and then an electric cable, in those places where it will be necessary. In the place where the tubes branch out, it is advisable to wrap each one separately, but it can also be done together. We fix the end of the thermal insulation tape with electrical tape.
This completes the main procedure for installing the air conditioner, now we move on to checking and preparing the system for launch.
Preparing and checking the air conditioning system
When, it would seem, all the difficult things are behind you, another difficult moment awaits you - preparing the system. First, check if you did everything right. Mentally reproduce all your actions and analyze them. A mistake will be very costly. If everything is done correctly, we move on.
Now we need to expel the air from the line and fill it with freon (refrigerant). To do this, unscrew all the nuts from the taps on the external unit, not the ones that fix the tubes, but the deaf ones. The larger faucet will have 2 nuts, while the smaller faucet will have one. The tap, which is smaller - liquid, larger - air.
Using the appropriate size hexagon, open the liquid valve half a turn and hold it for 5 seconds and close it. Next, we take the same hexagon and press it on the valve located at the bottom of the air valve. Before doing this, put on goggles or turn away to protect your eyes and try to hold your breath. As soon as the hiss ends (it will last about 3-5 seconds), stop pressing the valve. We do this 2 more times.
After that, we take the hexagon and completely open the valve with liquid freon until it stops. After a few seconds, press the hexagon on the lower valve of the air valve and hold for 5 seconds to remove the remaining air. Next, we take a hexagon of a different size and open the side valve of the air valve, also until it stops. The final stage is to tighten the nuts and tighten them.
At the bottom of the outdoor unit there will be a hole into which you need to insert a special plastic tube, which should come with the air conditioner.
Now once again we check the connection of the air conditioner and its installation. Is everything right? - Then let's move on. Open the cover of the indoor unit, check if the filters are installed correctly, and remove any protective stickers. Now we insert the cord from the air conditioner into the outlet and make the first start.
You need to check all modes. First, turn on the cold mode and wait a couple of minutes until cold air starts to flow from the air conditioner, then turn on the heating mode and wait until warm air comes out (if your air conditioner includes this function), then check the other modes.
When we are convinced that all modes are working, we turn on the cooling mode to the maximum, and if there is a “turbo” mode, then it. At the lowest temperature, we leave the air conditioner on for about an hour, maybe more. This is necessary in order to "drive" the system. Check whether the air conditioner in cooling mode switches to fan mode when the set temperature is reached and whether the outdoor unit turns off. After a certain time, set the temperature comfortable for you.
Finally, a few words about the rationality of self-installation. On average, installing an air conditioner costs 3,000 rubles. If we subtract from this amount how much we spent on expendable materials and for the special tool we need, it turns out that we saved about 2,000 rubles. But given that we spent 4 hours on the independent installation of the air conditioner and in view of the complexity mounting nuances, therefore, we recommend that you think about whether it is worth saving on installing an air conditioner and doing it yourself. It may be better to entrust this matter to professional installers who will quickly install the air conditioner and guarantee you the quality of its work.
Once a year, preferably before the start of the summer season, somewhere in May, clean the air conditioner. We have already given you recommendations.
In fact, it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. However, even the most reliable and very durable air conditioners will not work properly when installed incorrectly. Therefore, in case self installation air conditioner, you must study the documentation and the scheme for proper installation.
It all starts with the purchase of an air conditioner. Here, too, it is better to listen to specialists who can choose best option. It is worth knowing that when choosing an air conditioner, many parameters should be taken into account - the size of the room, the thickness of the walls, the material from which the walls are made, thermal insulation, etc. Therefore, do not take into account the advice of non-specialists.
Ways to install mobile and window air conditioners will not be considered due to the simplicity of operations. Consider the most difficult option -.
In general, the installation order is as follows:
- The choice of air conditioner;
- Study of documentation;
- Determination of the installation location of both units of the system;
- Penetration in outer wall openings for laying the connecting route;
- Installation of a drainage system;
- Electric line laying;
- Determination of the length and collection of the pipeline for freon;
- Installation of wallpaper blocks;
- Connection of blocks with the route;
- Starting the system.
Now about all the stages in order. When the indoor unit of the system is correctly positioned, there should be at least 15 cm of free space on the side and top. There must be no obstacles in the way of the air flow. Also, you can not install air conditioning in front of beds, tables, workplaces.
The outdoor unit is also installed in compliance with certain rules, the implementation of which will allow not to resort to air conditioner repair. So the location will be optimal on the right or under the window, but not less than three meters from the ground. It is also desirable that the distance between the outdoor and indoor units be as small as possible, because. this will make it easier to start the entire system, namely, it will be easier to remove moisture from the track.
Fasten with an assistant outdoor unit at a distance of at least 10 cm from the wall on special brackets.
Indoors, approximately in the same area, the indoor unit is also attached. To do this, the mounting plate included in the kit must be attached to the wall and, which is very important, mark the fixing points strictly according to the level. After installing the plate, we attach the block itself to it.
After that, you need to temporarily fix the indoor unit and measure the route between the blocks and make a margin of about 30 cm. Then remove the block and prepare the route. It is necessary to straighten all the pipes and carefully cut the required length with a pipe cutter.
After that, it is necessary to put on the flex and nuts and roll the ends of the tubes. The flaring process is carried out with a vise with grooves for various tubes and a flaring cone.
After inserting the tube into a suitable groove, leave 1.5 - 2 mm outside for the roller.
After flaring, the tubes with dressed flexes should be tried on the spot to the tubes of the indoor unit, add drainage with wire and twist with adhesive tape into one route.
The track must be fixed to the indoor unit. Drainage should be put on the fitting. Then we connect the power (the contacts in the outdoor and indoor units are the same). The union nuts of the tubes are connected to the fittings and are carefully first tightened by hand, and then pulled with a wrench with maximum effort. But do not overdo it, you can break the thread.
The free ends of the tubes must be wrapped with tape so that debris does not get in, and pushed into the hole into the street.
After that, you can put the indoor unit on the mounting plate. We connect wires and tubes to the outdoor unit, and the drain tube remains hanging with a certain downward slope. All connections are made in the same way as connecting the indoor unit.
Before starting the air conditioner, it is imperative to remove moisture and air from the tubes. For this event, there are two ways - by connecting a vacuum pump and the "puff" method. The second method can only be used if the length of the track is a maximum of 3 meters.
Let's look at the second removal option. First, let's look at the design of ports for connection:
1. Liquid tube;
2. Gas tube;
3, 4. Valve covers;
5. Freon spool cap.
All covers must be unscrewed. Using a hexagon, you need to turn the valve (4) 90° for just a second and close again.
With this operation, we launch a small amount of freon into the tube. After that, you need to click on the spool (5) and bleed the mixture of freon and air, but not completely, in order not to let air in again. We do these manipulations 2-3 times, but no longer worth it in order to save freon.
If the length of the route is more than three meters, then a vacuum pump is required.
To remove air, it is necessary to connect the high-pressure hose to the vacuum pump with a fitting that does not have a pin, and a fitting that has a pin to the spool. After that, you need to turn on the pump for 10 minutes. then valve (4) we launch a small amount of freon into the route and the valve must be closed. We disconnect the hose from the spool as quickly as possible to avoid the release of all freon.
Please note that you must wear protective gloves when disconnecting the hose. Freon has a temperature of -40 ° and can cause injury.
After disconnecting the hose, the valves can be fully opened (3,4) and check all connections of the route for leaks with soapy foam.
After DIY split system installation completed, needs to be completed mounting foam exit point to the street. Recommended on both sides. And after it dries and trims, you can plaster.
Everything, the installation of the air conditioner is over.
Video. Installing a split system with your own hands
Climate technology and, in particular, split systems, which are habitually called air conditioners, help to survive the summer heat and stuffiness. The equipment is not cheap, but the worst thing is that for its installation it is required to pay an amount slightly less than for the equipment. Because many think about self-assembly. Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is possible, but there are many little things and features, ignorance of which leads to rapid wear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instruction will help you get things right.
Location selection
Installing an air conditioner with your own hands begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a place for both. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how cold air will spread in a house or apartment, as well as take into account technical requirements.
Let's start with the technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:
- from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers, at least 20-30 cm);
- to the wall on the side - at least 30 cm;
- to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.
The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on an open balcony, if there is one. On a glazed balcony / loggia, installation on a fence (if it has sufficient bearing capacity) or next to a wall is possible. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, they try to put the outdoor unit above the window level - away from passers-by. On higher floors, it can be placed under a window or on the side.
If the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is planned in a private house, a place is usually chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. If there is a ventilated facade, you can use a special mount or hang the unit on the plinth, if any.
When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is normalized. Specific figures vary by manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m ( different models Daikin) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). For some manufacturers, the minimum length is not regulated, that is, it can be any. In this case, you can install the blocks "back to back". Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.
Slightly easier is the situation with the maximum distance between two blocks. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refueling of the system with freon will be required, and these are additional costs, and considerable ones. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.
What you need for self-assembly
You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, because the work is only 3 hours, they answer that very expensive equipment and its depreciation makes up a significant share of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many crews do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, but a bad one is of no use.
Equipment
So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands, you will need the following equipment:
For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to take it and on tracks up to 6 meters they do without it.
materials
To connect and install two blocks of split systems, you will need the following consumables:
This is all that is needed to install the air conditioner with your own hands.
Installation procedure and features of the work
There is nothing super complicated in self-installation of a split system, but there are a lot of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, you should carefully read the installation and operating instructions that come with the equipment. You compensate for the time spent by knowing exactly what and how to do with your air conditioner, because there are some nuances.
Start - mount the blocks
Before starting all work, it is worth looking for hidden wiring or heating pipes in the intended installation site. Getting into them at work is very sad. Next comes the actual installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. You need to start with the installation of the indoor unit. On the selected place we place a plate for its fastening. The block must hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviation. Therefore, we carefully approach the marking and fastening.
We apply the plate, set it according to the level, mark the places for fasteners. We drill holes, insert plastic plugs under the dowels, hang the plate and fix it with dowels. We especially carefully fasten the lower part of the plate - there are latches that hold the block, so they must be firmly fixed. No loopholes. Then check the horizontal position again.
Having estimated where the track will be located (it should go at an inclination of at least 1 cm per meter - for normal drainage installation), we begin to drill a hole in the outer wall. We also drill the hole with a slope - again, so that the condensate normally leaves (the angle can be greater than that of the route).
The minimum hole diameter is 5 cm. If there is no drill of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, bring out not a common bundle of communications, but each tube / cable separately. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for the copper and electrical cable, the second for the drain tube. It must be laid below the rest - so that it does not numb on communications in an emergency.
If two units are mounted back to back, the hole must be strictly aligned (measure on your own unit where the connection ports are)
Then install the brackets for the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a high-rise building, you will need climbing equipment and skills to work at height. This block must also hang strictly horizontally, so we also use the level when marking the holes. When mounting the brackets, we install fasteners in each hole, no matter how many there are - this is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners - anchors 10 * 100 mm. More is possible, less is highly undesirable.
After the brackets are fixed, expose the outdoor unit. We also fix the block in all the fasteners that are. This is the only way to ensure that it stays in place under any conditions.
Laying communications
Two blocks are connected by an electric wire, two copper tubes. Also, a drainage tube is brought out through the wall. All these communications must be properly selected, connected, laid and fixed.
Copper tubes
We start with copper pipes. One larger diameter, the other smaller. Dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. We cut off a piece of the required length with a pipe cutter, process the edges from burrs with a special tool, straightening and leveling the cut. It is undesirable to use a conventional saw, as well as a file to remove a burr - there will definitely be sawdust inside the pipe, which will enter the system and quickly destroy the compressor.
Heat-insulating tubes are put on the prepared pipes. Moreover, the thermal insulation must be continuous and pass inside the wall as well. The joints of the pieces of thermal insulation must be glued with metallized tape, achieving a very tight fit of the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensation will form on the non-insulated sections of the pipes, and it can drain inside the wall, causing frozen streaks, destroying the wall.
Copper pipes wrapped in thermal insulation must be passed through a hole in the wall. Before this, it is imperative that the edge that will be inserted into the wall be carefully sealed so that dust does not get inside the pipe (or it is better to plug both ends securely immediately after cutting and leave the plugs before starting the connection). This is very important point as the dust will quickly damage the compressor.
Cable and drainage
The situation is simpler with an electric cable. Each wire is terminated with special lugs, installed on conductors that have been stripped of insulation and crimped with tongs. The prepared cable is connected according to the diagram, which is in the instructions.
On the indoor and outdoor units, above the ports for connecting copper pipes, there is a removable plate, under which there are connectors for connecting the cable. Before we start self-assembly split systems, remove the plates, consider what and where you need to connect - it will be easier to work later. Especially with an outdoor unit.
Connecting the drain pipe is generally simple: it is connected to the appropriate outlet on the indoor unit and led out through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it ends at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. Laying the drainage pipe should be done with a slope towards the exit to the street. Slope not less than 1 cm per meter long. More is possible, less is not.
The tube must be fixed every meter so that sagging does not occur in it. Condensation then accumulates in them, which may end up on your floor or on furniture. When you pass the tube through a hole in the wall, it is also better to muffle it with something.
Indoors, pipes and cables are usually wrapped with metallized tape into a single bundle. Then they are fixed to the wall in several places, a plastic box is attached on top. Usually it is taken in white or a color suitable for finishing.
If you wish, you can hide all the tubes in the wall - gouge the track in the wall, lay it there and, after checking the performance, wall it up. But this is a rather risky option, since in order to repair something you will need to disassemble the wall.
Connecting blocks
Here, in general, there are no special secrets. The communications stretched through the hole in the wall are connected to the appropriate connectors. There are no problems with connecting the cable - connect the wires of the same color to the terminals that are already connected to them. In this case, you can't really go wrong.
If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop to catch the oil (we lay copper pipes in this way) dissolved in freon. If the drop is lower, we do not make any loops.
Drainage
There are two ways to divert drainage from the split system - into the sewer or just outside, out the window. The second method is more common with us, although it is not very correct.
Connecting the drain tube is also easy. A corrugated hose is easily pulled onto the outlet of the drainage system of the indoor unit (a tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit). To keep it secure, you can tighten the connection with a clamp.
The same is the case with the drainage from the outdoor unit. Exit it at the bottom. Often they leave everything as it is, and the water just drips down, but it's probably better to put on a drainage hose too and take moisture away from the walls.
Outdoor Unit Drainage
If not a hose is used, but a polymer pipe, it will be necessary to select an adapter that will allow you to connect the outlet of the air conditioner and the tube. You will have to watch on the spot, because situations are different.
When laying a drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns and certainly not to allow sagging - condensate will accumulate in these places, which is not good at all. As has been said more than once, the tube is laid out with a slope. Optimal - 3 mm per 1 meter, minimum - 1 mm per meter. Throughout it is fixed to the wall, at least every meter.
Freon circulation system
It is somewhat more difficult with connecting copper pipes. They are carefully laid out along the walls, avoiding kinks and creases. For bending, it is better to use a pipe bender, but you can get by with a spring one. In this case, sharp turns should also be avoided, but in order not to bend the tubes.
The ports on the outdoor unit look like this. Same on the inside.
From the beginning, we connect the tubes in the indoor unit. On it, we twist the nuts from the ports. As the nuts loosen, a hiss is heard. It's nitrogen coming out. This is normal - nitrogen is pumped in at the factory so that the insides do not oxidize. When the hissing stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, put it on the tube, and then start rolling.
rolling
First, remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burrs. If the section is not round during cutting, use a calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in the forehead shop. It is inserted into the pipe, scrolled, aligning the section.
The edges of the tubes are carefully aligned for 5 cm, after which the edges are flared so that they can be connected to the inlet / outlet of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correct execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system must be airtight. Then refueling the air conditioner will not be needed soon.
When flaring, hold the pipe with the hole down. Again, so that copper particles do not get inside, but spill out onto the floor. In the holder, it is clamped so that it sticks out 2 mm outward. That's right, no more, no less. We clamp the tube, put the flaring cone, twist it, applying solid efforts (the tube is thick-walled). The flaring is finished when the cone goes no further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with the other tube.
If you have not rolled pipes before, it is better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge should be smooth, with a clear continuous border.
Port connection
We connect the flared edge of the pipe to the corresponding outlet, tighten the nut. No additional gaskets, sealants and the like should be used (forbidden). For this, they take special tubes made of high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional funds.
You need to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case, the copper will flatten out, squeeze the fitting, the connection will become almost monolithic and precisely sealed.
The same operation is repeated with all four outputs.
Vacuuming - why and how to do it
The last stage, which ends with the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, is the removal of air and moisture, argon residues from the system. During installation, humid air from the room or from the street fills the copper pipes. If it is not removed, it will enter the system. As a result, the compressor will work with a greater load, it will heat up more.
The presence of moisture also adversely affects the performance of the system. The fact is that freon, which is filled with air conditioners, contains a certain amount of oil to lubricate the elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but saturated with water, it lubricates the insides less effectively, and this leads to their premature wear.
From all this it follows that the system will work without air removal, but not for very long and with possible shutdown due to overheating (if there is such an automation).
There are two ways to remove air from the system: using a vacuum pump or some amount of freon released from the outdoor unit (it is charged at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).
The "puff" method
On the ports of the external unit, unscrew the valve plugs (in the photo they are indicated by arrows).
We will carry out operations with the lower port (larger diameter), which sticks out perpendicular to the body. Under the cover there is a socket for a hexagon, we select a key that is suitable in size.
Under the cover is a valve with a hexagon socket
Next, with this key, turn the valve 90 ° for one second, return it to its previous position. We let some freon into the system, it created excess pressure. We press a finger on the spool, which is located on the same port. By this we release a mixture of freon and gases located there. Press for literally seconds. Part of the mixture should remain so as not to start a new portion of air inside.
You can repeat 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can turn the valve located above. With a track of 2-3 meters - you can 3 times, with a length of 4 meters - only two. Freon is not enough for more.
When the air is practically removed, we screw the plug onto the outlet with the spool (filling), open the control valves (under the hexagon) completely, launching the freon into the system. We coat all joints with soapy foam to make sure that they are airtight. You can run.
Vacuum pump
This operation requires a vacuum pump, a high pressure tube, a group of two pressure gauges - high and low pressure.
Without opening the valves on the control valves, we connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool, turn on the equipment. It should work 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, vapors, nitrogen residues are drawn out.
Then the pump is turned off, the pump valve is closed but not disconnected and left for another 15-20 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of manometers. If the system is tight, there is no change in pressure, the pressure gauge needles froze in place. If the arrows change their position, there is a leak somewhere and it needs to be fixed. You can find it with soap suds and tighten the connection (usually the problem is at the point where the copper pipes are connected to the outlets of the blocks).
If everything is fine, without disconnecting the pump hose, fully open the valve, which is located below. Some sounds are heard inside the system - freon fills the system. Now, with gloves, quickly twist the hose of the vacuum pump - a certain amount of ice freon can escape from the valve, and you don’t need frostbite. Now we completely unscrew the valve at the top (where a thinner tube is connected).
Why in that order? Because when filling with freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly closes the filling port when the pump is disconnected. That's all, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed, you can turn it on.
In fairness, it must be said that such an operation - vacuuming - is carried out only in Russia and neighboring countries. In the same Israel where air conditioners work all year round, do nothing of the sort. Why is a matter for thought.
Installing an air conditioner is a rather complicated undertaking that requires, if not experience in carrying out such work, then at least a thorough theoretical preparation. In more than half of the cases, air conditioning problems appear due to incorrect installation and errors in the process of connecting the system. Even the most expensive and modern device will not be able to fully realize its potential if it is installed in violation of technology.
The structure of the traditional split system includes an external unit, which is located outside the window, and an internal unit. In some cases, more than 1 block is installed. Such combinations are known as multi-split systems.
Each element of the system performs its functions. So, the outdoor unit is responsible for condensation, while the indoor unit performs the functions of an evaporator. The blocks are connected using a line of tubes and wires. Freon circulates through the tubes. The system also includes a drain tube. It is connected to the outdoor unit. It is responsible for the removal of moisture condensed during the operation of the installation. According to the rules, this tube must be connected to the sewer system.
Air conditioning systems are available for sale for every taste and request. However, in terms of their composition and connection technology, they practically do not differ from each other.
Before proceeding with the installation of blocks, you need to decide on a number of important points.
- First, decide on the side of the world to which the capacitor unit will go.
- Secondly, you need to establish the material from which the walls of the house are made. In accordance with this moment, suitable fasteners will be selected. Additionally, certain changes in the installation process of the system are made by the weight of the blocks.
It is important to ensure the possibility of normal access to the units for preventive maintenance and repair activities. The outdoor unit must be protected from precipitation, icing and other adverse effects.
When choosing the power of a future split system, take into account the operational and other important characteristics of housing. First of all, consider the orientation of the apartment or house to the cardinal points. Also important is the number of people inhabiting the dwelling, the total power of electrical appliances, the number of heating radiators, the presence of other ventilation systems and devices.
Before proceeding with the installation of the outdoor unit, you need to make sure that the strength of the balcony railing or wall is sufficient to support the weight of the product. The most powerful models weigh up to 60 kg and even more. On average, household outdoor units weigh 10-15 kg and usually there are no problems with their placement. The wall and all fasteners used must have a minimum of two times the safety margin.
If there is external insulation, be sure to ensure that the brackets are not attached to the thermal insulation, but directly to the wall material.
Quite often, aerated concrete is used in modern housing construction. This is an excellent material with high thermal insulation properties, however, unfortunately, it cannot boast of great strength. If the external walls of your house are built of aerated concrete, you should refrain from installing the air conditioner directly on the wall.
It is not recommended to hang the unit on a ventilated facade, because during its operation, quite strong vibration and noise can be created. In the described situations, the installation of the unit should be carried out using a special damping seal, previously fixed on the wall. The air conditioner itself rarely produces noise more than 25-30 dB, therefore, in houses with walls made of a material denser than aerated concrete, there are usually no inconveniences.
Any distortions when installing the outdoor unit are unacceptable. At each stage of installation, you need to check the horizontal installation of the product using the building level. Deviations from the horizontal will lead to a violation of the circulation of freon or other refrigerant used.
If possible, the air conditioner should be installed in such a place that it is blown from all sides by the wind, but at the same time it is protected from precipitation and other negative influences. The best option is to place the unit under a pre-installed canopy or at least on a balcony. The inhabitants of the upper floors apartment buildings can install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner on the roof. It is only important to ensure that the line has a total length not exceeding 15-20 m. Otherwise, significant cold losses will be noted in the system, and the air conditioner will consume electricity for nothing.
Take care of proper arrangement drain of condensed moisture. Regulations require that this tube be connected to the sewer. However, this requirement is almost never met, and moisture simply drips onto the ground under the window. In such a situation, you need to take care at least that water does not drip on passers-by.
Regulations require that the distance between the outdoor unit and the wall surface is at least 10 cm. The problem is that the compressor must be sufficiently blown from all sides. If it is installed closer than 10 cm to the wall, in summer the airflow will be insufficient, which will lead to the breakdown of the unit.
Installing an outdoor unit is associated with a certain danger, because It's still high-rise work. Therefore, installation can be carried out only with the necessary insurance, or it is better to completely entrust it to professional installers.
How to install the indoor unit
Inside the premises, the installation of the corresponding block and the laying of the highway are carried out. Special attention should be paid to the process of arranging electrical wiring. Domestic air conditioners consume about 2 kW of electricity or more. First make sure that the wiring in your apartment or house can withstand such a load. If she is not capable of this, lay an individual line from the shield with a separate fuse. This will protect the wiring from overheating, and your property from fire.
Lay the line from the outdoor unit of the air conditioning system to the location of the indoor unit. The line can be laid outside or inside. For external laying, it is hidden in a plastic box, but in accordance with the internal installation, the line must be recessed into the wall.
Carefully consider the choice of location for placing the indoor unit. The farther the blocks are removed from each other, the less efficient the system will be and the higher the energy losses will be.
The indoor unit must be placed so that there are no objects near it that can interfere with the normal flow of cooled air. Appliances, curtains and other items that are at the same height as the unit must be at least 3 m away from it.
The unit must not be placed directly above a heating radiator. The place of installation must be such that the unit can be easily reached for repair and maintenance work. The distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 20-25 cm. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner above appliances and furniture.
The air conditioner must be installed in such a way that the cold air emitted during its operation does not blow directly onto the person. Otherwise, bronchitis and tonsillitis will not keep you waiting long.
The indoor unit can be wall-mounted or ceiling structure. The latter are extremely rare. However, regardless of the type of system, it is necessary to ensure the most correct and reliable fastening. Installation is carried out using brackets and screws. Brackets in without fail tested for strength.
After connecting the outdoor and indoor units, it is necessary to remove moisture and air from the line. This process is known as evacuation. Special equipment is used to pump out air and water.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner connection sequence
Installation of the air conditioner is carried out in several stages. First, the wiring is laid. Further the external unit of the system is installed. The technology requires that it be placed at a height of at least 180-200 cm from ground level. This requirement is relevant for owners of private houses and residents of apartments located on the ground floor.
In the outer wall holes are drilled for laying communications. The diameter of these holes should be 500-600 mm. Brackets are installed, due to which the unit will be fixed. A special waterproofing cup is inserted into the prepared hole and direct connecting communications are laid.
Next you need install the indoor unit. The maximum allowable distance between these two elements is 20 m. The optimal distance is 7-12 m. Specific recommendations are given in the instructions for the equipment, be sure to study it before starting installation. Install the brackets and fix the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.
In the end, it remains only to lay the wires, due to which the functioning of the system will be ensured. Mount the box. It, as already noted, can be internal or external. Connect electrical wires and pipes for freon. Evacuate the system. For this, special equipment is used. The actual procedure lasts an average of 45-60 minutes.
After vacuuming is completed, perform a trial operation of the air conditioner. Professionals at this stage use special hardware and software equipment. In its absence, at least observe the operation of the system and the state of the power grid for some time.
Basic connection errors and their elimination
Mistakes made during the installation of the air conditioner entail a lot of different troubles. However, the services of professional installers are becoming more expensive every year and an increasing number of people, in an attempt to save money, are trying to install the air conditioner themselves. This, as already noted, is a rather complex and very responsible work, which has many features and requires taking into account a wide variety of nuances.
- One of the most common mistakes is laying pipes with unacceptable and/or repeated kinks. Because of this, the load on the compressor will increase, which will not have the most favorable effect on the operation of the system.
- The outdoor unit cannot be installed on a glazed balcony. Previously, recommendations were given for its installation in this room, but they are relevant only for glazed balconies. It is important that normal air circulation is maintained, and the unit is blown from all sides.
- The air conditioner must not be installed where any kind of installation generating high-frequency electromagnetic vibrations is in operation. Such equipment includes various welders, machine tools, etc.
- It is important to maintain the maximum evenness of the installation of blocks. If this rule is violated, the resulting condensate will simply drain to the floor, which will cause a lot of inconvenience. As already noted, the air conditioner cannot be installed directly above the radiators.
If these and any other errors were made and led to undesirable consequences appropriate action must be taken to remedy the violation. In the event of a draft from the air conditioner, it is usually sufficient to change the direction of the air flow by adjusting the dampers.
When the system is turned on in heating mode, frost is often found on the outdoor unit. The reason for this phenomenon is usually that the system does not have an automatic defrost function. To remove ice, it is enough to turn on the equipment for cooling for a while. The air conditioner will heat up and the ice will disappear.
If the air conditioner has stopped cooling normally, it is necessary to check the filters. They require regular cleaning. Detailed recommendations on this matter are usually given in the instructions.
If water starts to drip from the indoor unit, the cause of this problem in most cases is severe blockage. drainage channel. It also leads to the formation of ice plugs. It is impossible to eliminate this kind of blockage on your own without the necessary skills. It is recommended to urgently call a wizard who can properly warm up the system and correct the situation.
Uncharacteristic noises during system operation usually indicate a fan imbalance or severe bearing wear. This problem can also be handled exclusively by a qualified master.
If you find that the air conditioner has begun to overheat, you should call the wizard to check the freon level and the tightness of the system.
Thus, self-installation and connection of the air conditioner is a completely feasible job. But you need to tune in in advance to the fact that this event is not easy. Follow the instructions in everything and promptly eliminate emerging troubles. Then the air conditioner will serve as long as possible, fully performing all the tasks assigned to it.
Successful work!
Video - How to install the air conditioner yourself
The word split actually means "gap", but in technical English it has several meanings. In this case, we are talking about an air conditioning system using an air conditioner with spaced blocks. We will tell you how to install a split system with your own hands in a city apartment and a private house.
How air conditioner works
Installing an air conditioner is a tricky business. In order not to screw up, you need to know exactly what is being done for what. Therefore, we briefly recall the principle of operation of the air conditioner:
- A refrigerant enters the evaporator through a narrow opening - a die or nozzle - under pressure: a low-boiling liquid with a high heat of evaporation. In the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant expands, boils, evaporates and absorbs a lot of heat.
- At the same time, water condensate forms on the evaporator radiator (dew falls). The condensate flows into the tank, and from it through the drain tube - out.
- The compressor, arranged on the principle of a vacuum pump, continuously pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From the increase in pressure behind the pump, the refrigerant heats up and goes into a supercritical state: neither gas nor liquid, something like a very dense fog.
- Next, the refrigerant enters the condensation chamber, also equipped with a radiator, which is blown by a fan. Its temperature drops below the critical one and the refrigerant condenses into a liquid.
- The liquid refrigerant is blown through the die into the evaporator; the work cycle is repeated.
Do's and Don'ts of Air Conditioning
From the principle of operation of the air conditioner, it is clear that for its successful operation and economical consumption of electricity during installation, the following must be taken into account:
- Any thermal contact between the cold and hot zones dramatically increases the power consumption: the compressor, in addition to pumping the agent, now has to drive heat inside the system - at the expense of the owner.
- Dust and debris in the system are unacceptable: the vacuum pump is a high-precision device; one piece of metal can destroy it.
- The system must be completely sealed: low-boiling liquids strive to evaporate even through a micron gap.
- The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit: in this case, the thermosyphon effect (the heated liquid tends to rise) facilitates the operation of the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor, in addition to additional expense electricity to lift the agent, you still have to overcome the thermosyphon effect.
- The outdoor unit should be located in the coolest place possible. Any additional heating is paid by the owner.
- The drain tube must not have an upward bend anywhere. Any "U" quickly becomes a source of infection: condensate - pure water, in which microbes and fungi are free and at ease, and their spores are always in the air.
What is an air split
Air conditioners for split systems are made with separate units: evaporative (internal) and compressor-condensing (outdoor). The names, however, are conditional, because. most modern air conditioners can both cool and heat the room; During heating, the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit and evaporates in the outdoor unit. Therefore, they often say simply: outdoor and indoor unit.
In some (rather expensive) models of air conditioners, several indoor units are connected to one outdoor unit, which can work separately for cooling and heating. Such a split system, with the initial high cost of operation, turns out to be more economical: in this case, interroom heat exchange does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner. How a split system is installed in an apartment is shown in the figure:
When is the best time to split
It is better to time the installation of a split system in an apartment for repairs. The work ahead is serious: for the installation of electricians, you will have to walk along more than one wall. If the walls are already tiled - lay the new cladding in advance in expenses.
Tool
In order for the split to work and not break in a day or a week, you need to purchase or rent the following tool:
- Perforator with a set of chisels - you will have to make a hole under 100 mm in diameter in the main wall.
- Reinforcement detector, if the wall is concrete - hitting the rebar during grooving, you will have to punch a new hole.
- Pipe cutter. Never cut the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw! Copper chips will definitely remain in the gap, which will quickly kill the compressor.
- Tube flaring kit. When expanding with improvised means, tightness cannot be achieved. About flaring tubes will be discussed separately. Good flaring kits also include a pipe cutter with a scraper.
- Scraper (reamer) - a tool for stripping the ends of pipes. A needle file or file is not suitable because of the same sawdust.
- Bicycle hand pump - to check the tightness of the system.
- Vacuum pump - to evacuate the system before filling. Flushing with refrigerant, which is often recommended, does not remove moisture, which ruins the compressor no worse than metal filings.
- Phase indicator and tester for electrical work.
- Pressure gauge.
About pipelines
Buying pipes
It is better to buy a copper tube in a whole bay: it is better to spend money on some stock, which will then go somewhere else, than to risk the compressor: sawdust may remain in the tube from which it was cut off. Also make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory-rolled, and the tube itself does not have dents or cracks. Long piping will allow the outdoor unit to be lowered, so that some overspending when buying is then offset by a good thermosyphon.
Cutting, scraping and expanding tubes
Before embarking on the installation, you need to practice flaring the tubes: for an air conditioner, this is a vital issue. Flaring is done with a special tool; how it works, looks, what defects are possible, and what the final result should be - you can see in the figure:
For training, you need to immediately buy some kind of scrap of the same with a tube bay; do not touch the bay before installation. At the same time, we will practice cutting and scraping: the tube is cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, the tube must be held with the end down so that the scraped burrs do not fall into its lumen.
Outdoor unit installation
It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit on the wall by yourself, starting from the second floor. Why? See the statistics of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Health in the sections: "Resuscitation" and "Urgent surgery". Fortunately, the upper floors have balconies or loggias.
On a balcony, the outdoor unit mounts very well on self-made shallow (i.e. shallow) brackets, see fig. On any balcony, no matter how you turn it, there is always a north or east side, just right for the air conditioner. But even when installed in the loggia "facing" to the south, the visor will protect the outdoor unit from the direct rays of the sun during the hottest time of the day, when the air conditioner is just running.
With this installation method, the installation and maintenance of the air conditioner is easy and does not pose a danger. The only inconvenient operation is fixing the block to the brackets; it will have to be done by leaning over the railing.
To install the brackets, the glazing will have to be temporarily removed, and the root parts of the brackets should be cut into the lower frame frame. If the “roots” of the brackets are bent down in the form of horizontally arranged “U”, then you can do without struts and not touch the balcony skin.
Split system installation
Installation of a split system in an apartment is carried out in the following order:
And now we will describe some features of each stage of work. Allowable distances from walls and ceiling for indoor and outdoor units are shown in the figure on the right.
Places for indoor units
Indoor units cannot be installed:
- Above radiators and other heat sources.
- Behind curtains, curtains, screens and other airflow obstructions.
- In rooms with sources of electrical interference: workshops with power tools, induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens - pickups can disable the unit's processor.
The question immediately arises: what about the kitchen? In it, it turns out, the air conditioner cannot be installed at all. Right. The supply of conditioned air to the kitchen is provided.
Wiring
The smallest air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, for him it is necessary to lay separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm and put the automatic shutdown - as for a boiler or washing machine.
When connecting the wires to the input shield, we connect the yellow wire with a longitudinal green stripe to the neutral (neutral wire). Phase and zero are determined by the phase indicator. If the wiring is made from wires in non-standard colors, zero and phase must be marked at both ends.
outdoor unit
Installation of the outdoor unit has already been described above.
Hole in the wall
Firstly, if the house is block, you need to determine in advance the locations of the reinforcement. It is impossible to cut off the reinforcement that is in the hole: the outer wall is always load-bearing, and violation of the reinforcement is unacceptable.
Secondly, a second person is needed: he must stand below and warn passers-by. An accidentally dropped piece of concrete or brick can cost the owner a long prison sentence.
The diameter of the hole must be at least 80 mm. Recommendations about 60 and even 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.
Pipelines
We cut the tubes to size with a margin of 1 m, for bends. Bending the tubes must be done carefully to prevent kinks or wrinkles. Wrinkles create resistance to the flow of the agent, and this entails an increased consumption of electricity. Permissible bending radius of tubes is not less than 100 mm.
Then we put threaded flanges (“nuts”) on the tubes and flare the ends of the tubes. Make sure that the flanges are put on correctly - threaded towards the end of the tube.
Finally, we connect the pipelines to the fittings. This must be done alternately so that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot outdoor unit. The matter is facilitated by the fact that in most air conditioners hot and cold fittings of different diameters.
We tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not tightly: copper can be easily pinched. We will tighten the threaded connections later, when sealing.
For drainage, you need a piece of reinforced plastic tubing. We connect it to the drain pipe either with a threaded flange, if provided, or with a piece of heat-shrinkable tube. You can heat the heat shrink with a soldering iron with light circular movements, slightly touching the tube with a sting.
Electrical connections
Stranded wires in insulation with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm we connect the terminals of the same name of the indoor and outdoor units. If the names of some terminals do not match, we understand the instructions, consult with a specialist. Of course, both pipelines and wires are passed through a hole in the wall.
Sealing
When sealing, we use a method proven by generations of gas workers: a soap solution. We buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy, heat it “to steam” and, stirring gently, dissolve a spoonful of laundry soap shavings in it.
To seal, remove the outlet nipple, attach a bicycle pump to its pipe with a rubber hose. One person pumps up, another brush applies a soapy solution to the threaded connections and tightens them when the bubbles stop appearing, and another 1/8 turn. Soap residue can be removed with a damp cloth.
vacuuming
After sealing, the system must be evacuated to remove dust and moisture along with the air. To do this, put the nipple in place, tighten it well, attach a vacuum pump to it and pump it for an hour - you need all the moisture in the system to evaporate in a vacuum and be pumped out with the remaining air.
Filling and washing
We fill the system from a refrigerant cylinder through an adapter with a pressure gauge to the pressure indicated in the instructions.
Attention! It is impossible to fill air conditioners designed for freon with freon, and vice versa.
We connect the power wires in strict accordance with the designations on the terminal block - 0 to 0 or N (neutral), phase - by color.
Testing
Turn on the air conditioner disconnector. The air conditioner must enter the test mode itself. If not included, run the test from the remote control. If it doesn’t work out that way, alas, all guarantees for self-installation are lost. You need to call the master.
Completion
If the test passes, cold air comes in, the blinds are set to the desired position and swing, we first wrap the inter-unit bundle on top with a metallized film (you can use an aluminum baking sleeve) - additional thermal shielding will give 2-3% energy savings. Then the whole tourniquet with drainage tube wrapped with moisture resistant tape. It remains to close up the hole in the wall (capital, not with foam) - and that's it, the split system in the apartment was installed by hand.
