Installation of windows without a quarter is as follows. If your house is new, then the windows are mounted in an empty window opening. And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the size of the opening vertically - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the size of the opening horizontally - this will be the width of your window.
Installation of windows without a quarter is as follows.
If your house is new, then the windows are mounted in an empty window opening.
And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the size of the opening vertically - this will be the height of your window.
And subtract 3 cm from the size of the opening horizontally - this will be the width of your window.
Subsequently, at self installation these 3 cm windows will be filled with mounting foam (1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm is 1.5 cm from the top of the window for filling with mounting foam and 3.5 cm for the window sill under the window. You also need to make measurements of the length and width of the window sill and the outer ebb and add at least 5 cm to these dimensions so that the window sill “cuts” a little on the right and left into the wall.
For an inexperienced installer - you can take 20-30 cm in reserve, the excess is cut off during installation. In general, window sills and ebbs come in unified widths (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and lengths (up to 6 m), but you, in any case, must provide minimum dimensions to bring you the most suitable window sill and sill available.
goodlinez.ru
How to install a plastic window with your own hands, how to take measurements
Repair is an event that requires a lot of money, so home owners tend to do part of the work on their own. Let's take window replacement. It's great if you have theoretical knowledge on how to install a plastic window with your own hands. It is even better if there are practical skills in performing construction and installation work.
Special tools and fixtures for this difficult work will not be required. The main thing is interest in the result, attentiveness and accuracy. Let's take a closer look at each of the steps in this process.
Installing a plastic window: making measurements
This task is very responsible, measurement accuracy is a convenient and quick installation and high performance. Measurements are taken individually, even in apartment building possible violations of the geometry of the openings, there may be errors in the thickness of the walls.
Remember what errors can result in when measuring.
The results of incorrect measurement are not only difficulties with installation, after several months or years cracks and cracks form around the frame, it starts to blow into the window, condensation appears on the glass, and then mold.
If the decision to self-measure is made, use the advice of the masters:
- decide on the material for wall decoration and installation of slopes
- the size of the frame should be smaller than the opening in the wall, the allowable gaps are from 2 to 5 cm, they will ensure the freedom of the structure when exposed to natural expansion
- measurements are taken on the outer and inner side of the opening
The width of the opening is determined by three measurements made in the lower, middle and upper parts, choosing the smaller of the three values. Similarly, three measurements determine the height.
Measurement can be made different methods. Without a “quarter”, i.e. from the width indicator obtained as described above, the value of the mounting gap is subtracted, i.e. 20-40 mm, while taking into account the differences in wall thickness. If the differences are significant, it is better to stop at a mounting gap of 40 mm.
When calculating the height, the result obtained by comparing three measurements is used. The value of the mounting gap is subtracted from it, from 15 to 20 mm and the height of the mounting profile is 30 mm.
The dimensions of the window sill and tide can be obtained by measuring the old structures that were used for decoration earlier. If they were not installed, you can determine the length by adding 10 mm to the width of the opening.
The width is determined by the depth of the opening from the side of the room. The installation site of the heating radiator should not be blocked by a window sill.
To obtain the length of the ebb, 70-80 mm should be added to the width of the opening, measured on the outside. In width, the ebbs can protrude from the outer walls by about 50 mm.
“Quarter” is called the protrusion of the fourth part of the brick along the outer part of the opening. Measurement in this case is more problematic, the quarters themselves may have distortions or be asymmetrical.
Therefore, when measuring, follow these rules:
- frame entry for the side quarters - from 20 to 40 mm, for the top - 20 mm
- the stand profile should be placed 30 mm above the bottom wall, this will simplify the installation of the ebb
The dimensions of the tide and the window sill change in the same way as for the opening without quarters.
Plastic window order
The company's specialist will help to adjust the dimensions and recommend which profile is better, choose the optimal configuration, determine which parts can be made deaf, which ones can be opened. You will need to select accessories.
The choice of mounting system is of particular importance:
- through the frame
- with support reinforcement
Ordering new PVC windows
The second option involves the installation of elements of the mounting system on the frame itself, in the process of manufacturing the frame in production.
Fastening through the frame is easier to do, but during the installation work it will be necessary to remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf parts and all hinged sashes.
When installing the window yourself, the second option will make it easier to cope with the task, but since the design is heavy, you will need to involve an assistant.
Getting ready for installation work
They begin preparatory work if the windows have already been delivered, naturally, it will be necessary to set aside all the furniture from the window, tightly cover it from dust. Cover the heating radiator with foil.
being prepared window block:
- remove the glazing beads for fastening the double-glazed window, first vertical, be sure to mark
- removing the double-glazed window from the grooves, carefully install it against the wall
- dismantle until only the frame with lintels remains, reinforcing and separating the sashes
- on the inside of the frame, along the perimeter, using a drill for metal, holes are made for fastening anchors, the recommended drill diameter is from 8 to 10 mm, corresponding to the diameter of the anchors
If special mounting ears are used to fix the window, then it will not be necessary to dismantle the window, the work will consist in attaching the parts attached to the kit to the frame itself, screws are used as a fastener.
Masters recommend to exclude the possibility of the formation of a cold bridge in the lower part of the window opening - fill all inner space support profile with foam. It is desirable to proceed with the installation of windows when the foam hardens well.
On the day of installation of windows, the old windows are dismantled.
Removed:
- window frame and frame
- heaters and seals that are under the box
- slopes, if you plan to install new ones
- window sill and cement pad underneath
- all debris and dust that was formed during the work
If the replacement of windows takes place in the old wooden house then a waterproofing layer is laid around the perimeter of the opening.
How to install a plastic window with your own hands: the order of work
The frame is installed on the substrates. It is not necessary to remove them after fastening, they will be a good auxiliary device that will reduce the load on the anchor. Pegs are also used to secure the frame to the sides.
After each stage of work, it is imperative to check that the installation is horizontal; it is recommended to use not a bubble, but a more accurate water level. A plumb line is used to level the structure in a vertical position.
After checking the correctness, the structure can be fixed with anchors.
If the fastening is carried out through the frame, then using a perforator drill, holes are made in the wall, strictly in the places marked for fastening. Fasten first the lower edges of the frame, both sides. Anchors are inserted, but not fully attached.
The verticality of the installation is checked, then holes for fasteners are made in the middle and upper parts. After all the anchors are baited, you can fully tighten the fasteners. But it is not necessary to apply special efforts, excessive stress can lead to deformation of the frame.
Mounting with special lugs is a little easier. In the ears themselves, holes for the anchor have already been prepared. You will need to drill holes for anchors in the appropriate places. First fix the lower, then the upper part of the window, observing the horizontal and vertical installation.
After installing the anchor fasteners, the structure is assembled. The procedure is performed in the reverse order to the one when the disassembly took place. The double-glazed windows inserted into the frame are first fastened with the lower and upper glazing beads, then with the side ones. Snap the glazing beads to the stop with a rubber mallet.
The assembled window is checked for normal opening and closing of the sashes. When set to position (0 or 45 degrees), the sash should neither open nor close on its own.
If the test went well, the sashes are closed and the gaps between the parts adjacent to the walls and the walls themselves are sealed. Mounting foam is usually used. Since the foam can collapse over time under the influence of the external environment and sunlight, it is recommended to equip a hydro-barrier on both sides of the seam.
Ignoring this point over time causes the window to freeze or fog up. FROM outer side apply a special vapor-permeable membrane self-adhesive strip.
A foil waterproofing strip is used along the lower inner part; it will be completely hidden by the window sill.
For foaming the gaps between the frame and the wall, it is better to use all-weather foam. After applying the foam, it can be moistened with a spray bottle. The presence of water accelerates the polymerization process.
How to install a window sill to plastic windows with your own hands
Before installation, the window sill is given the necessary dimensions, i.e. cut it off. By attaching to the installation profile - using a level, make sure that the slope is correct - a slight slope from the window towards the room is acceptable - it will allow condensate to drain freely. Sagging of the window sill is unacceptable.
With the help of mounting foam, the voids formed under the window sill are filled, then several loads are evenly placed on it, for example, cans of water. The load will prevent the deformation of the material from the effects of drying foam.
It will take 12 hours for the foam to dry completely, after this period the load is removed, all the excess foam formed is removed.
An important point - you should not allow the formation of a gap between the frame and the window sill, if it is found - you will need to seal it with silicone.
Slope installation
Start work on the installation of slopes by attaching the bar along the inner perimeter of the window opening. Screws 95 mm long can be used as fasteners. The bar is installed flush, i.e. it should not go beyond the window opening.
Next, on the outer frame of the window, we fix the U-shaped starting profile. The fastener, namely the self-tapping screw “bug”, is screwed directly into the frame. It is recommended to carefully monitor the accuracy of connecting the outer edges of the profile, because slopes will be inserted into it.
At the next stage, an F-shaped profile is mounted; a stapler is used to fix it. The groove of this profile should be located opposite the groove of the previously installed U-shaped profile, it is these grooves that are intended for installing the slope.
At the part located above the window, the F-groove is cut with scissors for metal or sharp knife. It will be necessary to remove it - it is overlapped on the top of the window.
After careful preparation of the profiles, you can insert the slopes themselves. If you notice a slight error in the evenness of the seams, you can eliminate it by smearing the seam with white silicone.
Low tide installation
If the old ebb was made of high-quality material and was in good condition, its replacement is not necessary. If it is decided to install a new one, it is ordered together with the window itself.
The ebb is fastened to the base profile using several self-tapping screws. To avoid the rattling of the ebb and strong noise during rain, the space under the ebb should be filled with mounting foam.
When working, do not neglect the rules for its use:
- the recommended cylinder temperature is not lower than +20 C
- if it is cold outside, it is recommended to wear special warm covers on the applicator barrel and on the balloon
- it is rational to use foam if the gap is 10-60 mm
- if the space intended to be filled is wider, it is advisable to use cheaper building materials to adjust the dimensions of the window opening (reduce it), possibly polystyrene or bricks.
Features of installing PVC windows in a brick, wooden, panel house
Modern housing construction involves the use of various wall materials, both natural and artificial. Some of them should be treated with special attention. during operation, they change their parameters and characteristics.
For example, a log house tends to shrink, and the process can take several years, and changes in parameters can be significant. Windows as a result of such changes can be skewed, therefore, there will be problems with closing them.
To avoid such troubles, experts recommend using the so-called casing, or pigtail. Its design will protect window frames from the effects of pressure forces caused by shrinkage of the walls.
Those who claim that shrinkage wooden house lasts a year, in fact, the drying of wood lasts for 5 years. Throughout this time, the casing will protect the frames from loads.
The peculiarity of panel houses is relatively thin walls. It cannot be said that they do not hold heat well, because high-quality thermal insulation materials. But installation plastic windows in such houses has certain features.
Such walls cannot provide uniform heat distribution, the more the profile surface is in contact with the wall, the warmer it will be in the room. For panel houses, it is recommended to use windows with a profile 70 mm wide.
If we take into account that 80% of the area of the window opening is covered by a double-glazed window, then it is not difficult to conclude that in order to maintain heat in the house, a structure capable of providing high resistance to heat transfer is required.
This effect can be achieved by installing energy-saving glass in a double-glazed window. This thermal mirror is able to reflect the radiant heat and direct it back into the room.
The coefficient of resistance to heat transfer in this case will be 0.69, according to GOST, this coefficient should have a value of 0.61, moreover, for areas with a cold climate.
Those. windows with a profile of 70 mm and double-glazed windows with three glasses, one of which will be energy-saving will be ideal option for a panel house.
The main problem when replacing windows with plastic ones in brick houses is non-standard sizes. window openings. In the projects of such houses, double-leaf windows with dimensions of 1.28 -1.40 m (width) by 1.6 m (height) are usually provided. At the same time, window slopes are wide, about 30-50 cm, after dismantling the old frames, they become even wider. The depth of the window sills is large, almost always exceeds 40 cm.
The process of installing plastic windows in brick houses is quite laborious, even dismantling an old window is sometimes difficult and time consuming. But the large thickness of the walls of the capital structure of brick allows the windows to show their heat-saving qualities to the fullest, the windows in such a house will last much longer.
Houses of the 600 series (ships) are distinguished by the absence of window slopes and window sills. The windows in them have various sizes and configuration, make it difficult to install non-standard configurations of balcony blocks.
With the installation of plastic, thinner frames, it becomes possible to install a shallow window sill.
Since the outer quarters are not provided for by the design of the window opening in the houses of the 600 series, the following are used during installation:
- external flashings
- extension and extension profiles
During the construction of this type of houses, aerated concrete was used - a material whose noise-insulating and heat-saving characteristics are far from ideal. Therefore, when installing windows, craftsmen recommend ordering double-glazed windows with three glasses, one of which is energy-saving.
Having enough information on how to install a plastic window with your own hands, as well as having some skills to perform such work, it is quite possible to cope with the task on your own. When performing work, you must be extremely careful and accurate.
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foxremont.com
Window opening - with a quarter or without?
Plastic windows have been ordered and manufactured, according to all wishes, and the matter remains, it would seem, for small things - the installation of windows is ahead. Actually, quality installation windows plays a huge role in the absence of problems in the future. Therefore, the team should choose a reliable one, and you yourself should know some tricks for installing plastic windows.
Take, for example, terminology.
Even at the time of measuring the window, you can hear the phrase "window quarter" or "a quarter in the window opening." What is it, how can the presence or absence of a quarter affect the operation of a PVC window over time, and how is the window installed correctly in both cases?
So let's start with a definition. A window quarter or a quarter of a window opening is a protrusion of a part outer wall, about 3-4 cm wide. She got her name, since 3 cm is the width of a quarter of a brick, which, in fact, should be a ledge according to all the canons of construction. Quarters are not provided in the doorways.
Rice. a) - a window opening with a quarter; b) a window opening without a quarter.
A quarter of the window opening is located around the entire perimeter of the window. Its presence is necessary for reliable installation of the window from the inside of the room.
However, a window opening with a quarter can not always be found. The absence of a window quarter is not uncommon. For example, in private construction, this requirement is often ignored even at the stage of building a house, either out of ignorance, or because of the laziness of the builders. And the houses built in the middle of the 20th century did not have window quarters, since the windows were installed in them in a different way.
What do they do in such cases? There are two possible solutions. The first is to process the space between the frame and the wall with mounting foam, and then close the resulting seam with a flashing. The second way is to complete or drill a “window quarter”, which will hold the window more securely and keep the seam sealed, preventing moisture from entering the room.
If you have any questions about the correct installation of metal-plastic windows, the specialists of the Open Windows company will always be happy to answer them exhaustively. We care about the quality of window installation in your homes.
oknadnepr.com.ua
video and step by step instructions from the master
Today, plastic double-glazed windows can be called best solution for use in any building. If you still use wooden windows, then it's time to change them to more modern ones, and forget about the annual problems in the winter. You do not have to paint them and plug the gaps, because the plastic frames are perfectly even and do not require maintenance. We will tell you how plastic windows are installed, and show the installation process video for clarity.
If you were interested in the services of plastic window installation companies, then you probably know that they have the usual installation and according to GOST. As a rule, the installation of plastic windows according to GOST will cost more, but subject to all tolerances, it will be better than usual. You can learn more about the requirements for the quality of products and installation work in the following regulatory documents:
- GOST 23166-99 "Window blocks" - General requirements to room lighting, ventilation, weather protection and noise permeability.
- More specific requirements are described in GOST 30673-99 "PVC profiles" and GOST 30674-99 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles".
- Installation requirements are specified in GOST 30971-02 "Mounting seams of adjoining window blocks to wall openings".
- The norms of heat and sound insulation, ventilation, light transmission are described in GOST 26602.1-99, GOST 26602.2-99, GOST 26602.3-99, GOST 26602.4-99.
- Those. conditions for glued double-glazed windows for construction purposes are specified in GOST 24866-99.
Do-it-yourself pvc window installation includes the following steps:
- aperture measurements;
- De installation work;
- Preparation of openings for installation;
- Installation of a plastic window;
However, if you decide to do all the steps yourself, then a problem may arise: manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements and installation were not carried out by their masters. If you make a mistake by a centimeter, then the window block may simply not enter, and if you insert plastic windows incorrectly, then after a couple of years they will freeze, leak, etc.
On the other hand, if you approach work responsibly, having studied all the subtleties before work, then you can make the installation of pvc windows even better than the masters from the company, who often save time and money without observing technological process.
Consider in order all the stages of installation work, and start with measurements of the window opening. This is the most difficult stage, because it is difficult to determine the actual dimensions of the window when it is already installed, especially in older houses. The layer of plaster and insulation after dismantling may fall off, and the opening will become larger than you expected, so you should carefully examine the walls when measuring.
Measurements and purchase of windows
First, consider the process of measuring a window in an opening without a quarter. The window quarter is an internal frame of bricks about ¼ brick wide (5-6 cm) that prevents windows from falling out and allows them to be more rigidly fixed. In addition, the quarter closes mounting foam from the sun's rays, what should be done in without fail even in her absence. In the absence of a quarter, the frame is attached to anchor plates, and the foam is hidden using a decorative flashing. Finding out the presence of a quarter is very simple: you need to compare the width of the frame inside and outside the window, if it differs greatly, you have quarters.
Window measurements are performed as follows: 
The width of the window opening is measured. To do this, you need to know the distance between the internal slopes. At the same time, in old houses, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the plaster, it is advisable to remove it for more accurate measurements.
The height of the window opening is measured from the upper slope to the window sill, taking into account the thickness of the window sill. We make at least 3 measurements, from the edge and in the middle, for calculations the minimum result is taken.
- Width = width of the window opening - 2 * mounting gap.
- Height = Opening height - 2*mounting gap - stand profile height.
It is also necessary to check the straightness of the window opening so that they are not skewed. Vertically, this is done with a plumb line, and horizontally with the help of a hydraulic level. This process will be easier and more accurate with a laser level.
If there are irregularities, be sure to indicate them on the drawing, according to which you will order the window. It is necessary to calculate the usable space so that it does not happen that during installation the corners of the frame will rest against the wall due to the skew of the opening. In other words, you need to maintain a uniform mounting gap around the perimeter.
As for the location of the window block, when viewed from above, it must be installed 2/3 of the width from the inside. If external cladding of the facade is planned, then you can move the window closer towards the street.
To measure the width of the drain, it is usually enough to add 5 cm per bend to the width of the already installed ebb. Its total width should be the sum of the width from the mounting seam to the outer corner of the wall + 3-4 cm per ledge and + margin for bending. If you plan to finish the exterior of the facade, you need to take into account the thickness of the insulation and finish, so it is recommended to install the ebb after finishing the facade, but in any case, you need to cover the mounting foam from the sun.
The dimensions of the window sill should be equal to the width from the inner corner of the wall to the mounting joint + the size of the inward projection - the width of the window frame (60, 70, 86 mm). The overhang should be large enough to cover the top of the radiator by about 1/3.
It is better to measure the slopes after installing the windows, since it is difficult to determine the exact width. The length will be equal to the height of the window opening with a margin for cutting.
Quarter window measurements
If there is a quarter, you need to take into account its dimensions, and measure the outer part.
- Width \u003d distance between quarters + 2 * quarter overlap on the frame (2.5-4 cm).
- Height \u003d distance between the ebb and the upper quarter + overlap on the upper quarter (2.5-4 cm).
The installation plane is selected along the inside of the quarter, and from it the dimensions of the window sill and the ebb are calculated.
Window order
After all measurements, you can contact the manufacturer and decide on the configuration of the reservoir window. Fittings are selected, the presence of deaf parts and sashes.
Also, when choosing, you should know that there are several window fastening systems:
This means that in the first case, during installation, you pull the double-glazed windows out of the frame and fasten it, and then insert it back. The second option means that you fasten the window immediately with double-glazed windows. Both options have their drawbacks: when pulling out and installing double-glazed windows, their tightness can be damaged, and if this is not done, then the weight of the entire structure will be large, and a heavy window can also be damaged during installation.
Preparatory work
Preparation should begin only after a window is in place. First of all, of course, you need to free up the working space and cover the furniture with polyethylene, because there will be a lot of dust.
If necessary, a double-glazed window is pulled out of the window, and the sashes are removed from the hinges. To remove the double-glazed window from the frame, you need to carefully pry the glazing bead with a chisel and pull it out. First remove the vertical glazing beads, then the horizontal ones. Be sure to number them so as not to confuse them, otherwise gaps may appear later. 
After you pull out the glazing bead, the frame can be slightly tilted and the glass pulled out, moving it to the side.
To remove the sash from the frame, you need to remove the plugs from the canopies and unscrew the bolts. After that, we turn the handle to the center to transfer the window to the ventilation mode, open it slightly and remove it from the lower canopy.
As a result, you will only have a frame with imposts (lintels for separating the wings).
Marking of points for anchoring is done, and holes are drilled with inside. We make at least 3 attachment points along the edges and 2 from the top to the bottom. For reliable fixation, anchors of 8-10 mm and a corresponding drill for metal are suitable.
If the walls have a low density (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening should be done on anchor hangers. They are screwed to the frame and fastened to the wall with hardened self-tapping screws (6-8 pieces for each suspension to the wall).
Advice! In order to exclude a temperature bridge in the place of the support profile, it is highly desirable to fill its internal cavity with mounting foam the day before installation. So you protect yourself from freezing.
Dismantling the old window
Removing the old window is best done on the day the new one is installed. Usually they are thrown into the trash, so you can not stand on ceremony here: pull them out along with fasteners, saw the frame for convenience, pry it with a nail puller, etc.
The old sealant and insulation are removed, a layer of plaster is removed from the slopes with a perforator with a nozzle-shovel. The window sill is torn out and excess cement under it is removed with a perforator so that the base is reliable. Slopes are leveled, excess is removed, and dust is removed. Then all adjacent surfaces must be treated with a primer, which installers often forget about. If the opening is wooden, then you need to provide a layer of waterproofing around the perimeter.
Note! If work takes place in the cold season, then it should be warmer than -15 degrees outside. At the same time, frost-resistant foam must be used in winter.
Fixing a plastic window
First you need to fix the window on wooden wedges around the perimeter so that you can level it, and then you just need to fix it to the wall. Wooden substrates do not need to be removed after fixing, they will additionally support the structure.
Plastic windows - installation according to GOST
Another gross violation of GOST is the lack of a support profile. It provides not only a stable mount, but also allows you to fix the window sill and ebb to it. In its absence, they are usually attached directly to the frame, violating its tightness. The diagram shows how to position the window sill profile at the bottom of the frame.
After that, you need to make sure that in all 3 planes the window is perfectly level. This can best be determined with a plumb, water or laser level. Popular bubble levels have poor accuracy for such measurements.
As soon as you set the window block exactly without distortions and slopes, you can fix it with anchors to the wall.
Installing a plastic window
With a perforator, carefully so as not to damage the profile, we drill the wall by 60-120 mm through the holes prepared in advance in the window. First we fix the bottom anchors, but not completely, then we check the evenness again and fix the remaining points. The anchors can only be finally tightened after the final check. In this case, you do not need to overdo it, otherwise the frame will warp. In the same way, fastening to anchor plates occurs.
Drainage plant
FROM outside window tide is attached to the stand profile on a self-tapping screw or in a special groove on the bottom of the frame. All joints must be sealed with sealant so that moisture does not penetrate inside. Additionally, you can deepen the ends of the ebb into the wall by a few centimeters by making a recess with a perforator. Before laying, the bottom gap is sealed from the outside to prevent freezing. To reduce the sound from the rain, we glue a strip of Linoterm sound insulation on the lower part of the tide, or make a foam pillow.
Window Assembly
When all the anchors are fixed, you can insert the double-glazed windows back and put on the sashes. We insert the glass into the frame and fasten the glazing beads back, they should snap into place, to do this, gently tap them with a rubber mallet.
Elements of plastic windows
After that, you need to check that the sash opens freely and fits snugly when closed. The window level is finally checked. An open sash should not open or close arbitrarily if the window is level.
After you are convinced of the correct installation, you can proceed to seal the mounting seam. We seal it with polyurethane foam and make reliable waterproofing on both sides to avoid freezing and misted glass.
Before applying the foam, moisten the cracks with water. When filling the gap, you need to spray it again to improve the polymerization process.
Advice! When sealing the seams, be especially careful! It is important to apply the correct amount of foam (70-95% of the joint space), if it is too little, freezing is possible, and if it is too much, then the window can lead. After drying, it should protrude from the seams by several centimeters. Also, be careful not to get on the front of the plastic profiles. Fill wide joints over 8 cm in several stages.
Inside, we glue a hydro-vapor barrier tape for plastic windows along the perimeter, except for the bottom. At the bottom of the window, you need to glue the waterproofing with a foil surface, which will be hidden by the window sill. On the outside, you need to stick a vapor-permeable membrane so that moisture comes out from the inside, but does not penetrate inside.
Window sill installation
We cut the window sill so that it rests against the lining profile and enters the opening. Along the edges, it should go onto the walls by 5-10 cm. Do not forget to leave a temperature gap of 0.5-1 cm, which will be hidden by plastic slopes. 
The window sill is installed on wooden linings, according to the level, slightly tilted into the room. The empty space under it is filled with foam and plastic plugs are glued from the ends. After that, you need to put a heavy object on it until the foam dries. You can also fix it on anchor plates by screwing it to the wall from below.
Video on how to properly measure and install plastic windows:
Conclusion
Now you know how to install a plastic window correctly, and you can probably do it yourself. It is recommended to finally check the operation of the fittings one day after installation, so that the foam has time to set. It is necessary to adjust the fittings for a snug fit of the window on all sides.
This instruction for installing pvc windows is also applicable to balcony glazing, but there are some subtleties there. In particular, it is usually necessary to reinforce the parapet, additionally creating a partition of foam blocks.
If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes about 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.
Complete set of window system
Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic; in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.
The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers
In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.
Components of a plastic window
The main element of the window unit is the frame The design of the plastic window includes the following details:
- frame - the main structural part;
- if you have big window, most often it is divided vertical partition, there may be several - it all depends on the choice of design;
- the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
- double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using an inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
- in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
- fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
- in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
- on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture generated by the drop temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
- another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
- parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.
Is it possible to install the window yourself
There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:
- dismantling of the old window block;
- installing a new window.
Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.
If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time and has good reviews from customers. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in the winter, you can always count on a significant discount.
When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. With self-installation, you can obtain a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.
In order to install windows in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you first need to order a swing-out or blind design from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.
Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement
When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.
Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design Before you start measuring, be sure to important point- what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.
Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.
In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which constituent parts your design will be completed: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).
If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you need to choose the most small size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.
Features of measurements for glazing balconies
To determine the width glass construction, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.
How to take measurements of windows in a country house
To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.
Preparing to install a window structure
After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.
Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation. Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.
Installation Technology Guide
The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.
Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.
When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in 
Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks If the installation is done without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.
Mounting on anchor plates 
There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, bricks, cinder blocks, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.
It is very important to choose the correct installation depth The installation sequence must be followed:
- inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
- further attached to the wall;
- after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
- then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
- after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.
However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create it, it can be a special film that needs to be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.
In order for the correct installation to be done both on windows and, follow the simple rules:
- we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
- the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
- the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.
According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be borne by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.
Mistakes you can make when installing windows
There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:
- it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
- you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
- be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
- the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.
By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.
Currently, more and more people give their choice in favor of metal-plastic windows. Such double-glazed windows are equipped and ordinary apartments, And country houses, and luxurious country mansions. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen method of installation and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The technology for installing windows is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation order and comply with all the requirements dictated by the installation technology.
Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows
Proper installation of new windows requires an accurate measurement of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in foam concrete structures. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window with a length of 50 mm less than the length of the opening is installed in the opening without a quarter. 30 mm must be subtracted from the measured width. Leave gaps of 15 mm along the contour of the opening for foaming. In accordance with the current GOSTs, 20 mm must be left around the perimeter. From below, additionally leave 35 mm under the window sill.
If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest point. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. The length does not need to be changed.
As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of about 1/3 deep from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done by hand, then the owner can move the structure in any direction convenient for him. Think over the offset in advance and take this parameter into account when ordering a low tide and a window sill.
To the width of the ebb and window sill determined in accordance with the location of the window, add 50 mm each. When calculating the width of the window sill, additionally take into account such an indicator as the location of the battery.
The window sill should cover the radiator halfway. Add 20 mm to insert the product under the base of the PVC window. The margin in length must be at least 80 mm. But it’s better not to save too much and add 150 mm so that in the future you can cut the window sill beautifully without any problems. Together with the ebb and window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. You don't need to give up on them.
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Which frame mounting method should I choose?
The installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamber size of the double-glazed window, nor on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can change only taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. Suitable mount and method PVC mounting windows are selected in accordance with the listed parameters. To fix the window structure, you can use:
- Dowels or anchors that cut into walls through existing or pre-prepared through holes in the profile.
- toothed plates. They are pressed into profile. They are fastened against the wall and fixed with screws.
Practice shows that the first option is the most reliable. It is most often used when installing heavy and large windows. In the case of through fastening, the window will normally withstand multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and tilting window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer gets the opportunity to adjust the horizontal and vertical of the product to be installed as accurately as possible.
Those who install windows with blank double-glazed windows, i.e. without hinged and flaps, more interested in installation using anchor plates. These products are hidden under the slopes, so appearance they won't spoil. If the walls of the house are made of brick or concrete, then it is recommended to prepare small recesses for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer before the slope device.
Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Through the lower profile and the side parts of the frame, anchors are deepened into the walls, and plates are used to fix the structure. If the windows are installed in a building made of wood, it is better to refuse the use of plates, because. they loosen after a short time. In this case, galvanized screws are more preferable.
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What you need to know the owner of a wooden house?
The process of installing PVC windows is very dependent on the material of the walls. In the case of brick and foam concrete structures, the differences come down only to the depth of the anchors. With openings from a bar and a log house, everything is a little more complicated.
If the walls of the house are made of wood, you need to remember the row important rules. Firstly, it is recommended to start installing PVC windows in a wooden house no earlier than a year, and even better, 2 years after the completion of the construction of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest value and period of shrinkage. Secondly, windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product can only be mounted in a wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block must not have any defects, signs of damage by insects and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.
After 1-2 years, shrinkage does not stop completely, but is no longer so strong. After PVC installations windows and completion of finishing works, it will also take place. That is why at the top between the box and the opening you need to leave a gap of 30-70 mm. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and humidity building materials. After installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and closed with platbands.
Building codes do not establish any clear recommendations regarding materials for window sills and sills. As a rule, standard ebbs are used, which come with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be supported directly on a wooden window sill, i.e. you can, if desired, install this product before installing the window. Or you can not get rid of the old window sill, if it is normally preserved.
Experienced builders give very useful advice, which is not in the regulatory documents, but it will be useful to any person who decides to perform an independent installation of a PVC window. The wood is permeable. If no action is taken in this regard, these evaporations will gradually degrade the properties of the foam. And to prevent the foam from moistening, a polyethylene foam foil tape should be pasted along the line of its application.
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Preparing the opening and window for installation
Before proceeding with further work, prepare the tools for installing PVC windows. You will need the following:
- Screwdriver.
- Foam gun and directly foam.
- Level.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Perforator.
- A set of hex keys.
- Pencil.
- Yardstick.
- Stationery knife.
After you dismantle the old window, carefully clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally cut off the top layer if the new window is mounted in a box that has already served for some time. This pre-treatment provides a stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.
Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of timber, you can use segments of the same timber.
First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the top loop. You can carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or pliers. After that, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. If the window is deaf, you need to remove the double-glazed window from it. First, the longitudinal glazing beads are taken, after them - the transverse ones. Beads are easily removed with a spatula or a wide knife. It is enough to insert an auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to gradually shift it. Be careful not to damage the glass.
If the window is small, you can insert it using mounting plates without having to first remove the double-glazed windows or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory design, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some kind of soft material.
In no case do not lay double-glazed windows and sashes flat. It is also forbidden to put them skewed. Even because of the smallest pebble under the base, a crack may appear in the product. Remove protective film from the outside of the frame. It is better to do it right away, because. in the future, this process will require much more effort.
Mark the places for installing fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners in increments of 40 cm. In accordance with the current state standards, the step should not exceed 70 cm. The standard indents from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you install a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Prepare holes for long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.
Most instructions indicate that before starting installation, you need to fix it with PSUL protective tape. However, practice shows that it is quite inconvenient to glue it before installation. Therefore, you can do this after the installation is completed, nothing terrible will happen because of this.
The installation of plastic windows begins ... No, not with measurements, but with calculations: think about whether it is worth spending time and whether you have the right tool. Yes, window installation is not difficult, but it will take a whole day for three or four window openings. If you do not have a tool (at least, you will need a powerful drill, and even better - a hammer drill) and the skills to work with it, then it will take more time to work.
Advice: it is interesting to calculate how profitable installing plastic windows can be, based on your income per day/week and an estimate of the time you spend on your own installation. If you are confident in your abilities, then it is quite possible to choose self-assembly, especially when it comes to wide large windows. If we are talking about small window structures, specialists can also do this. And yet, it’s difficult to install windows alone, start preparing for installation by “processing” friends who can help you.
You have decided to install windows yourself: where do we start?
We start by inspecting the window opening. The first thing to determine is the type: with or without a quarter. It would be useful to measure the depth of the window, because the larger it is, the warmer the window can be installed in the opening.
With a quarter or without - how to understand?
- A window with a quarter has ledges (their height is approximately equal to a quarter of the length of a standard brick).
- A window opening without a quarter of the protrusions does not have, which means that the window is less protected from falling out.
Why is a quarter needed and what problems will there be if it is not there?
The quarter performs two functions:
- Protecting the window from falling out.
- Protecting the mounting foam (and the entire mounting assembly) from sunlight and moisture.
When installing a window in an opening without a quarter, you will have to use more attachment points. For windows with a quarter, it is enough to place attachment points at intervals of 70 cm. For openings in which there is no quarter, it is better to play it safe and make smaller intervals - 40-50-60 cm, depending on the size and weight of the window.
Advice: how to understand that a window opening with a quarter? It's simple, measure the height of the bottom / side of the frame, inside and out. If outside it is smaller, then a window with a quarter. Remember that, depending on the project of the house, a quarter can be located both on the sides of the window and on top, and along the entire perimeter of the opening, or only on the sides.
In a word, we now have to measure the window: and not seven times, but more.
Correct measurements before installing windows
Even in houses built according to standard project, no two windows are the same. To measure openings, you can call a specialist: the cost of measurements will range from 400-600 rubles - in fact, you pay only for the visit of the master. It makes sense to call a measurer if you order the manufacture of windows. When buying ready-made - and companies that install plastic windows often offer ready-made window structures, for window openings of typical houses - you can measure the openings yourself.
We measure:
- The width of the window opening in three places - in the upper and lower parts of the opening and in the middle.
- The height of the window opening - right, left and in the middle.
- If there is a quarter, we measure the parameters of the opening from the right to the left side quarter and from the upper quarter to the bottom of the opening.
Subtract from the obtained dimensions, if the window is without a quarter:
- 5 cm vertically.
- 3 cm horizontally.
If a quarter window then subtract from the distance between the upper quarter and the bottom 3 cm.
The measurements are not over yet, because we need to figure out what the length and width of the window sill and low tide will be. We measure:
- The length of the window sill, add 5-10 cm to it.
- The width of the window sill, add 4-5 cm to it.
- The length of the tide is as accurate as possible.
- The width of the tide, add 5 cm to it.
The measurements are completed.
Summing up the measurements
You can go to a company that manufactures and sells plastic windows if you have the following numbers:
- Window height.
- Window width.
- The length and width of the tide.
- The length and width of the window sill.
Based on these measurements, you can choose a window from ready-made solutions or place an order for production.
Advice: Find out what the manufacturer guarantees. If the warranty covers fittings, the integrity (tightness) of the double-glazed window and profiles - everything is fine. If only for accessories - not bad either. If the manufacturer refuses to give a guarantee for fittings or double-glazed windows, citing the fact that “you install it yourself, we cannot guarantee anything,” feel free to go to another company.
Have you made sure that everything is in order with the guarantee? Specify the completeness of the delivery. In addition to a window of a given size and a double-glazed window assembly, you must deliver:
- Windowsill.
- Spacer profile.
- Window sill caps.
- Low tide.
- Anchor plates with which the window will be fixed in the opening.
When ordering a window, please specify:
- Profile width.
- The number of chambers in a double-glazed window.
- Width and length of supplied end caps, flashing and window sill and spacer profile.
Advice: take an interest in the thickness of the double-glazed window and what is the distance between the glasses in a two- and three-chamber package. If it is not the same, they sell you a good double-glazed window made in accordance with the recommendations of GOST.
We deliberately do not touch upon the issues of choosing a window according to the type of fittings, double-glazed windows and design features (deaf, single- and double-leaf, with a transom or window, etc.) This is a topic for a separate volumetric material. In the meantime, in detail, with examples, specialists from firms that manufacture and install plastic windows can tell about this.
We choose the installation method: plastic windows and installation technology
When ordering installation, the cost of installing plastic windows does not depend on how they are installed. If you decide to do it yourself, it is important to understand the differences between the two technologies:
- With preliminary unpacking and disassembly of the window.
- In one piece - without dismantling the packages and removing the sashes.
The second option is chosen by installation teams: two or three people will easily install the window in an unassembled form. If you mount the window yourself, it will be difficult to hold a massive structure - it is much easier to disassemble the window by removing the double-glazed windows. But. In case of inaccurate dismantling, damage to the glass, violation of the tightness of the package, the appearance of scratches and chips on the glazing beads that hold the package in the frame are possible. You need to choose: are you ready to spend an extra hour on the neat dismantling of a double-glazed window, or do you feel able to lift and hold the window without dismantling - even if for a short time?
Depending on whether the installation is done with disassembly (unpacking) or without, the frame is attached to the walls of the opening in different ways:
- When installing a plastic window with unpacking, the fasteners are made through, through the frame to the wall, which, on the one hand, increases the strength of the structure, and on the other hand, makes it necessary to more carefully mark the places for installation.
- When installing a window without unpacking, the frame is attached to the opening through anchor strips, which are mounted on the top and sides of the window, thus being located between the frame and the walls of the opening.
With the exception of increased power loads, the second option without unpacking has no drawbacks. The risk of damage to the glazing beads or plastic of the frame/sash is minimal, and you won’t have to accurately align the location of the attachment points, because. the anchor bar can be rotated as needed, choosing a suitable place for reciprocal fastening to the wall.
Advice: if you are an inexperienced installer, then choose the installation option without unpacking - it will turn out faster. If you install windows at a low height, up to 5-6 floors, then you can also refuse to unpack. If the window is located high, from the 10th floor and above - choose the option with unpacking. If the windows are large - too.
Preparation for window installation: tool, dismantling and alignment
In order not to detect dew inside the double-glazed window after installing plastic windows, so that the window does not arch from the pressure of the foam or start to “walk” along with the surrounding sections of the wall, the place for installation must be prepared. We are to:
- Dismantle the old window.
- Remove the remains of fasteners, trim.
- Treat the window sill, slopes and low tide.
Important! In wooden houses, the installation of windows is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to take into account seasonal (temperature) expansion and compression of a log or beam. To compensate for them, quite complex structure- pigtail. This is discussed in a separate paragraph of the instructions for installing plastic windows.
Dismantling the old window
Most likely you need to dismantle wooden window- firmly seated on solid Soviet hardware. It is better to start by removing the sashes: the smaller the weight of the structure to be dismantled, the easier it is to dispose of it. Is it worth removing the glass? Rather yes than no. Glass can still come in handy, but remember that the larger it is, the more difficult (and dangerous) it is to carry. If you can’t think of glass applications, feel free to leave them framed.
Adviсe: first - always remove the sashes before dismantling the window. Use a chisel or the flat part of a pry bar to “break” hardened paint or rust and pry up the rest of the sash hinges. After that, it is usually easy to remove it with your hands. Second - seal the glass crosswise with adhesive tape. The wider it is, the better. Treat with adhesive tape and the joints of the glass and the sash. This way you will protect yourself from falling glass and from splinters if the glass breaks.
The frame is easier to remove by first sawing it on the sides, top and bottom. The divided sections of the frame are removed using a pry bar or a chisel with a hammer.
Do not rush to take out all at once wooden frame frames - leave one “cut”: during installation, plastic windows need lining and leveling wedges that can be quickly cut from the same sash.
Preparing a window opening after dismantling an old window
Remove dust and small debris from the surface of the window sill and slopes. Drive the old fastener deep into the wall or pull it out: it is better to putty the holes from the old anchors.
The window sill is also removed - the surface under it can not be leveled, since the new plastic window sill will lie on a foam pad and possibly wedges.
If there is time, then, of course, you can work a little on leveling: using a quick-drying putty.
Installing a plastic window
Take your time, first mentally divide the work into stages. It's best to distribute it like this:
- We mark places for fasteners.
- We install fasteners in the frame.
- We deepen the places marked for fasteners in the window opening - that is, we simply knock down plaster, concrete or brick to a depth of 4 cm. In width, if you mount the window for the first time, it is better to play it safe and make the deepening area larger.
Marking the place for fasteners
Here everything should be done according to GOST: the distance between the fastening points should not exceed 70 cm. At the same time, a distance of about 10-15 cm can be left between the walls of the opening and the extreme fasteners.
Make marking with an indelible marker, so that later you do not look for erased marks. If possible, mark the marked places. This will make it easier to find them and make drilling for dowels or anchors more accurate.
Advice: it would be useful to connect the fastening points with lines, along which you can quite accurately estimate the distance between the fastening points and on the frame itself.
Installing fasteners in the frame
Recall that if you chose to install a plastic window with unpacking, you will have to prepare the window:
- Remove staples.
- Remove glass pane.
- Place and align the frame, having previously opened the sashes.
After that, with long self-tapping screws through the frame through the window is attached to the opening. The difficulty is that the window will have to be aligned vertically / horizontally in advance, and there will be practically no opportunity to somehow correct the inaccuracy of the markup.
If you followed the advice and preferred installation without unpacking, it's time to start installing fasteners on the frame. Here we will be helped by previously made measurements and marks on the surface of the window opening. Special precision is not needed here, since the direction of the anchor plate can always be changed.
Wedges are used for leveling - stands made of wood, brick or a suitable piece of concrete. It is better if these are wooden wedges: individual pieces of the old wooden frame dismantled during dismantling can go on them. As a rule, it is wood hardened by wind, rain and sun, the strength of which is enough to hold a heavy window.
If you prepared the window opening correctly, then, most likely, wedges will not be needed. If the window does not want to be displayed horizontally and vertically, we begin to work with wedges. You need to remember:
- Two smaller wedges are better than one big one.
- You need to put the wedges strictly under the perpendicular parts of the frame: the lower and upper ones - under the vertical ones, and the side ones - opposite the horizontal ones.
- The installation order of the wedges is two lower, two upper (vertical), right and left.
After setting the height of the window, you can fix the upper anchor plates - not completely, but so that the window is fixed.
Significantly simplifies the process of exhibiting the presence of a mounting plate.
A window that has been set vertically and horizontally can be fixed. And here the question arises for many: what to fix. Dowels or anchors? Dowels, in principle, are enough to withstand even a large window. But is it worth saving on a window? In our opinion, anchors, as more reliable fasteners, are preferable, although you will have to tinker with their clogging.
During fastening, the anchor plates can be rotated, the angle of rotation depends on how accurately you marked the places along the fasteners and how accurately you correlated the fasteners on the frame with them.
The ebb is pre-cut to the desired length. Mounted outside, on self-tapping screws. It is better to choose self-tapping screws with a moisture-proof cap or seal for fastening.
Possible options:
- Installation of fasteners in the frame (undesirable, since a metal self-tapping screw is a real cold bridge between the street and the internal chambers of the window profile).
- Fastening to the wall under the frame.
Before installing the tide, you need to clean and dry the section of the wall that it will cover. Additionally, the joint of the frame and the lower part of the window opening is treated with a sealant.
After that, you can start sealing the window.
Window sealing: PSUL, foam, membrane
Leaky or incorrectly made mounting seams between the frame and the walls of the window opening are one of the main causes of problems with plastic windows. Wrong - it means ignoring the recommendations of the domestic GOST 30971-2002 Mounting seams of junctions.
According to GOST, the seam between the wall of the window opening and the frame must be multi-layered, this is the only way to succeed:
- Seal the contact between wall and frame.
- Ensure protection against moisture (including condensation) and wind.
- Protect the seam from UV and high temperatures.
The assembly seam according to GOST includes three layers:
- Protective outer vapor permeable.
- Internal heat insulating.
- Internal membrane, moisture-proof.
The first (outer) layer is perfectly done with PSUL - pre-compressed self-sealing tape. It is located:
- In the seams between the frame and the window opening.
- Under the tide
- Between window sill and spacer profile.
This tape can be found at any hardware store. The adhesive layer allows you to securely fix it on any surface. In our case, PSUL is placed on the wall, after a while the tape expands, filling the smallest voids in the seam.
After the tape, the seams are foamed. So that the mounting foam does not press on the frame profiles, it must be applied in several steps, with an interval of 10-15 minutes.
The next layer of the “seam of the junction assembly” can be made later, a day or two after the installation of the window, during which time the foam will finally harden. Membrane adhesive tape can be used as the last layer.
Everything is pretty simple here:
- The window sill blank (profile) is cut to the desired length.
- The finished cut is applied to the spacer profile.
- Wedges are driven under the window sill for even alignment along the horizon / height.
- Plugs are put on the window sill (included).
- The cavity under the window sill is foaming.
- From above, we install a load on the windowsill - containers with water, heavy things.
- We are waiting for a day.
- We cut off the foam and, if necessary, treat the cut surface with putty - for painting, plastering or wallpaper.
In general, everything. Only Finishing work, they can be carried out after installing plastic windows in two to three days:
- Installation of plastic slopes or plastering.
- Plastering of external surfaces of slopes.
You can also check how evenly the window was installed and how the fittings work. Open / close the window, open and see if the sash opens on its own.
Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house
The technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house is significantly different from the traditional one. The bottom line is that the thermal expansion of a tree (beam, log) and plastic varies. Plus - the tree either absorbs moisture, expanding, then gives it away, drying out. Therefore, the task of the installer is to make sure that the thermal expansion of the walls is compensated, to make the window “floating” in the opening.
To solve the problem, a pigtail is used. This is a wooden structure, a box and a beam, which is put on vertical and horizontal grooves in the window opening.
Otherwise, the installation procedure is similar, except that you should not devote so much time to the exact alignment of the mounting points on the frame and in the opening.
As you can see, installing the window yourself is easy. If you are not sure that you will cope with the task, if the window complex shape(arched, round) or simply very large, it is better to order together with the manufacture and installation. You can choose a manufacturer and a company that installs plastic windows in the appropriate section of our portal.
