Proper installation of the indoor unit split system. Installing a split system: step-by-step instructions for self-installation

The word split actually means "gap", but in technical English it has several meanings. In this case, we are talking about an air conditioning system using an air conditioner with spaced blocks. We will tell you how to install a split system with your own hands in a city apartment and a private house.

How air conditioner works

Installing an air conditioner is a tricky business. In order not to screw up, you need to know exactly what is being done for what. Therefore, we briefly recall the principle of operation of the air conditioner:

• A refrigerant enters the evaporator through a narrow opening - a die or nozzle - under pressure: a low-boiling liquid with a high heat of evaporation. In the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant expands, boils, evaporates and absorbs a lot of heat.
• At the same time, water condensate forms on the evaporator radiator (dew falls). The condensate flows into the tank, and from it through the drain tube - out.
• The compressor, arranged on the principle of a vacuum pump, continuously pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From the increase in pressure behind the pump, the refrigerant heats up and goes into a supercritical state: neither gas nor liquid, something like a very dense fog.
• Next, the refrigerant enters the condensation chamber, also equipped with a radiator, which is blown by a fan. Its temperature drops below the critical one and the refrigerant condenses into a liquid.
• The liquid refrigerant is blown through the die into the evaporator; the work cycle is repeated.

Do's and Don'ts of Air Conditioning

From the principle of operation of the air conditioner, it is clear that for its successful operation and economical consumption of electricity during installation, the following must be taken into account:

1. Any thermal contact between the cold and hot zones dramatically increases the power consumption: the compressor, in addition to pumping the agent, now has to drive heat inside the system - at the expense of the owner.
2. Dust and debris in the system are unacceptable: the vacuum pump is a high-precision device; one piece of metal can destroy it.
3. The system must be completely sealed: low-boiling liquids strive to evaporate even through a micron gap.
4. The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit: in this case, the thermosyphon effect (the heated liquid tends to rise) facilitates the operation of the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor, in addition to the additional consumption of electricity to lift the agent, will also have to overcome the thermosyphon effect.
5. The outdoor unit should be located in the coolest place possible. Any additional heating is paid by the owner.
6. The drain tube must not have an upward bend anywhere. Any "U" quickly becomes a source of infection: condensate - pure water, in which microbes and fungi are free and at ease, and their spores are always in the air.

What is an air split

Air conditioners for split systems are made with separate units: evaporative (internal) and compressor-condensing (outdoor). The names, however, are conditional, because. most modern air conditioners can both cool and heat the room; During heating, the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit and evaporates in the outdoor unit. Therefore, they often say simply: outdoor and indoor unit.

In some (rather expensive) models of air conditioners, several indoor units are connected to one outdoor unit, which can work separately for cooling and heating. Such a split system, with the initial high cost of operation, turns out to be more economical: in this case, interroom heat exchange does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner. How a split system is installed in an apartment is shown in the figure:

When is the best time to split

It is better to time the installation of a split system in an apartment for repairs. The work ahead is serious: for the installation of electricians, you will have to walk along more than one wall. If the walls are already tiled - lay the new cladding in advance in expenses.

Tool

In order for the split to work and not break in a day or a week, you need to purchase or rent the following tool:

• Perforator with a set of chisels - you will have to make a hole under 100 mm in diameter in the main wall.
• Reinforcement detector, if the wall is concrete - hitting the rebar during grooving, you will have to punch a new hole.
• Pipe cutter. Never cut the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw! Copper chips will definitely remain in the gap, which will quickly kill the compressor.
• Tube flaring kit. When expanding with improvised means, tightness cannot be achieved. About flaring tubes will be discussed separately. Good flaring kits also include a pipe cutter with a scraper.
• Scraper (reamer) - a tool for stripping the ends of pipes. A needle file or file is not suitable because of the same sawdust.
• Bicycle hand pump - to check the tightness of the system.
• Vacuum pump - to evacuate the system before filling. Flushing with refrigerant, which is often recommended, does not remove moisture, which ruins the compressor no worse than metal filings.
• Phase indicator and tester for electrical installation work.
• Pressure gauge.

About pipelines

Buying pipes

It is better to buy a copper tube in a whole bay: it is better to spend money on some stock, which will then go somewhere else, than to risk the compressor: sawdust may remain in the tube from which it was cut off. Also make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory-rolled, and the tube itself does not have dents or cracks. Long pipelines will allow you to lower outdoor unit lower, so that some overspending when buying is then offset by a good thermosyphon.

Cutting, scraping and expanding tubes

Before embarking on the installation, you need to practice flaring the tubes: for an air conditioner, this is a vital issue. Flaring is done with a special tool; how it works, looks, what defects are possible, and what the final result should be - you can see in the figure:

For training, you need to immediately buy some kind of scrap of the same with a tube bay; do not touch the bay before installation. At the same time, we will practice cutting and scraping: the tube is cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, the tube must be held with the end down so that the scraped burrs do not fall into its lumen.

Outdoor unit installation

It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit on the wall by yourself, starting from the second floor. Why? See the statistics of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Health in the sections: "Resuscitation" and "Urgent surgery". Fortunately, the upper floors have balconies or loggias.

On a balcony, the outdoor unit mounts very well on self-made shallow (i.e. shallow) brackets, see fig. On any balcony, no matter how you turn it, there is always a north or east side, just right for the air conditioner. But even when installed in the loggia "facing" to the south, the visor will protect the outdoor unit from the direct rays of the sun during the hottest time of the day, when the air conditioner is just running.

With this installation method, the installation and maintenance of the air conditioner is easy and does not pose a danger. The only inconvenient operation is fixing the block to the brackets; it will have to be done by leaning over the railing.

To install the brackets, the glazing will have to be temporarily removed, and the root parts of the brackets should be cut into the lower frame frame. If the “roots” of the brackets are bent down in the form of horizontally arranged “U”, then you can do without struts and not touch the balcony skin.

Split system installation

Installation of a split system in an apartment is carried out in the following order:

And now we will describe some features of each stage of work. Allowable distances from walls and ceiling for indoor and outdoor units are shown in the figure on the right.

Places for indoor units

Indoor units cannot be installed:

1. Above radiators and other heat sources.
2. Behind curtains, curtains, screens and other airflow obstructions.
3. In rooms with sources of electrical interference: workshops with power tools, induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens - pickups can disable the unit's processor.

The question immediately arises: what about the kitchen? In it, it turns out, the air conditioner cannot be installed at all. Right. The supply of conditioned air to the kitchen is provided.

Wiring

The smallest air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, for it it is necessary to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm and put the automatic shutdown - as for a boiler or washing machine.

When connecting the wires to the input shield, we connect the yellow wire with a longitudinal green stripe to the neutral (neutral wire). Phase and zero are determined by the phase indicator. If the wiring is made from wires in non-standard colors, zero and phase must be marked at both ends.

outdoor unit

Installation of the outdoor unit has already been described above.

Hole in the wall

Firstly, if the house is block, you need to determine in advance the locations of the reinforcement. It is impossible to cut off the reinforcement that is in the hole: the outer wall is always load-bearing, and violation of the reinforcement is unacceptable.

Secondly, a second person is needed: he must stand below and warn passers-by. An accidentally dropped piece of concrete or brick can cost the owner a long prison sentence.

The diameter of the hole must be at least 80 mm. Recommendations about 60 and even 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.

Pipelines

We cut the tubes to size with a margin of 1 m, for bends. Bending the tubes must be done carefully to prevent kinks or wrinkles. Wrinkles create resistance to the flow of the agent, and this entails an increased consumption of electricity. Permissible bending radius of tubes is not less than 100 mm.

Then we put threaded flanges (“nuts”) on the tubes and flare the ends of the tubes. Make sure that the flanges are put on correctly - threaded towards the end of the tube.

Finally, we connect the pipelines to the fittings. This must be done alternately so that the cold fitting indoor unit did not happen to be connected to a hot outdoor. The matter is facilitated by the fact that in most air conditioners hot and cold fittings of different diameters.

We tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not tightly: copper can be easily pinched. We will tighten the threaded connections later, when sealing.

For drainage, you need a piece of reinforced plastic tubing. We connect it to the drain pipe either with a threaded flange, if provided, or with a piece of heat-shrinkable tube. You can heat the heat shrink with a soldering iron with light circular movements, slightly touching the tube with a sting.

Electrical connections

Stranded wires in insulation with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm we connect the terminals of the same name of the indoor and outdoor units. If the names of some terminals do not match, we understand the instructions, consult with a specialist. Of course, both pipelines and wires are passed through a hole in the wall.

Sealing

When sealing, we use a method proven by generations of gas workers: a soap solution. We buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy, heat it “to steam” and, stirring gently, dissolve a spoonful of laundry soap shavings in it.

To seal, remove the outlet nipple, attach a bicycle pump to its pipe with a rubber hose. One person pumps up, another brush applies a soapy solution to the threaded connections and tightens them when the bubbles stop, and another 1/8 turn. Soap residue can be removed with a damp cloth.

vacuuming

After sealing, the system must be evacuated to remove dust and moisture along with the air. To do this, put the nipple in place, tighten it well, attach a vacuum pump to it and pump it for an hour - you need all the moisture in the system to evaporate in a vacuum and be pumped out with the remaining air.

Filling and washing

We fill the system from a refrigerant cylinder through an adapter with a pressure gauge to the pressure indicated in the instructions.

Attention! It is impossible to fill air conditioners designed for freon with freon, and vice versa.

We connect the power wires in strict accordance with the designations on the terminal block - 0 to 0 or N (neutral), phase - by color.

Testing

Turn on the air conditioner disconnector. The air conditioner must enter the test mode itself. If not included, run the test from the remote control. If it doesn’t work out that way, alas, all guarantees self installation lost. You need to call the master.

Completion

If the test passes, cold air comes in, the blinds are set to the desired position and swing, we first wrap the inter-unit bundle on top with a metallized film (you can use an aluminum baking sleeve) - additional thermal shielding will give 2-3% energy savings. Then we wrap the entire tourniquet with a drainage tube with moisture-resistant electrical tape. It remains to close up the hole in the wall (capital, not with foam) - and that's it, the split system in the apartment was installed by hand.

Now many people want to install in their apartment not just an air conditioner, but a split system. This is understandable, this system has a lot of advantages: it does not block natural light, since there is no need to cut it into the window frame, it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house as a whole, and lastly, the system consists of only two blocks - outdoor and indoor . The only thing that stops many consumers from buying is not knowing how to install a split system yourself, since this requires basic knowledge of installing climate control equipment. We will try to rectify the situation and inform you about the rules for installing such equipment. Let's consider everything in order.

What is a split system?

The air conditioning system consists of two separate units: the outer one is the condenser, the inner one is the evaporator. These blocks communicate with each other using electrical wires and two copper pipes through which the refrigerant circulates.

The indoor unit also has a thin plastic tube through which condensed moisture is removed from the system.

Important! According to all the rules, the tube that performs the drainage function must be connected to a special drain tank or sewer pipe. But for some reason, many people take it outside and water from the pipe drips on people's heads or under their feet.

How the system works

Climate technology works quite simply:

1. If it is necessary to cool the room, the refrigerant passes through the copper pipe from the heat exchanger of the outdoor unit to the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. That is, in this case, the freon is processed by the fan, and cold air comes out of the air conditioner.
2. If, on the contrary, the room needs to be heated, then the heat pump of the external condenser starts to function as an evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, starts to work as a condenser.

Important! In the external unit of the split system there is a compressor, the main function of which is to compress freon. This process contributes to a significant increase in the efficiency of the device.

Fixing methods for indoor units

The indoor units of the climate system according to the method of fastening can be:

• Wall mounted.
• Floor and ceiling.

These points must be known in order to understand how to install a split system yourself.

1. Most often, in apartments of multi-storey buildings, wall blocks are used. To change the direction of the flow of air masses, wall units are equipped with movable blinds. Power wall devices is specially limited by manufacturers, as a very strong jet of chilled air can blow away everything in its path in a small room.
2. If a split system is needed for spacious rooms, for example, for workshops and offices, then in this case more powerful equipment with a floor-to-ceiling indoor unit is installed.

When is the best time to install an air conditioning system?

Installation of the system is best timed to coincide with the repair, as the work ahead is dusty and serious. To install electrical wires, you will have to walk on more than one wall. Also, if you choose to install split system, there are some important factors to consider:

• The seller is not responsible for the malfunction of the goods if the installation work was not done by a specialized organization.
• Before proceeding with the installation of the climate system, it is necessary to understand what it consists of and how it works, so that even if the installation is carried out by specialists, you can control the progress of work and their quality.
• To install the air conditioner yourself, you need a special tool. It should be borne in mind that the list of specialized equipment is extensive, and not everyone has the skills to work with them.

Important! To save money, we advise you to do the following: do the main work yourself, and entrust the system connection and launch to specialists. In this case, the work will be cheaper, and most importantly, the guarantee for the goods will be preserved.

So, what can you do yourself to install a split system:

1. Prepare all the electrical part.
2. Mark the "path".
3. Punch a hole in the wall to bring the "route" to the street. This is the hardest part of the job and it's worth it. big money. Therefore, by doing this work yourself, you will save the lion's share Money, which must be paid to specialists for connecting the system.
4. Strengthen blocks.

In order for the installation of the split system to be successful, adhere to the following rules:

1. Installation of the indoor unit is carried out at a distance of 3 meters from the floor and at least 10 cm from the ceiling.
2. Do not place the indoor unit above cabinets, bed or near heating elements.
3. Do not install the indoor unit behind curtains, screens, curtains or other obstructions to airflow.
4. Do not install the indoor unit in rooms with a source of electrical interference: induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens, in workshops with power tools. Interference from equipment can damage the unit's processor.
5. You cannot install a split system - its outdoor unit, on your own if you live above the second floor. It is dangerous to health and life. If you live on the top floor, then the outdoor unit can be installed on a balcony or loggia. It is better, of course, if the equipment is located on the north side or east. To install the outdoor unit on the balcony, you can use homemade small brackets.
6. The length of the freon route between the indoor and outdoor units should not be less than 3 meters.
7. Install the outdoor unit in such a way that there are no obstacles in front of it at a distance of 3 meters, otherwise the air circulation will be difficult.
8. For a split system, it is necessary to carry out separate wiring and install a separate machine on the shield.

Split system installation tools

In order to install the split system yourself, you will need a number of devices and tools.

Important! They can be rented or purchased. The quality of work, as well as the durability of the air conditioner, directly depend on the quality of the installation equipment.

To work on installing the climate system, you will need the following equipment, which can be conditionally divided into the following groups:

1. Electrical equipment:
   1. Perforator with a set of chisels. This tool is necessary for punching holes in the main wall.
   2. Bulgarian with a diamond disc.
2. Pipe Tools:
   1. Pipe cutter for copper pipes. In no case should you cut freon pipes with a hacksaw, as copper chips will definitely remain in the gap, which will disable the compressor.
   2. Tube flaring kit. Improvised means cannot be used, since it will be impossible to achieve complete tightness.
   3. Scouring. This is a tool for stripping the cut ends of pipes. The use of files and needle files for this purpose will lead to the formation of sawdust.
   4. Hydraulic pipe bender.
3. Devices for electrical work:
   1. Tester.
   2. Phase indicator.
4. Soldering tools:
   1. Burner.
   2. Copper-phosphorus solder.
5. Refrigeration tool:
   1. Vacuum pump. It is necessary for processing the refrigeration system before filling it.
   2. Pressure gauge. Required to measure the pressure of the refrigerant in the system.

Important! Take note of a few valuable recommendations, thanks to which it will be easier for you to install a split system yourself:

• If the wall is concrete, then the rebar detector will not interfere, since if the tool hits the rebar during drilling, you will have to punch another hole.
• It is better to buy a copper pipe with a whole bay. An extra wire is always useful, but long pipelines will allow you to lower the outdoor unit lower. Be sure to make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory-rolled. The tube must not have cracks or dents.
• Be sure to practice trimming and scraping the pipes: cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, hold the tube end down so that the burrs being scraped off do not fall into its lumen.

How to install a split system?

Installation of the climate system is carried out in several stages. Let's consider each of them in detail.

Stage number 1. Choosing the location of the air conditioner

Following the above rules, determine where the internal and where the external unit will be located.

Stage number 2. Installation of electrical wiring

Even the smallest air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, the climate system needs to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm. It is also necessary to install a separate circuit breaker in the shield.

Important! When connecting the wires to the input shield, find where the phase and zero are located using special indicators, and mark them from both ends.

Stage number 3. Installing the outdoor unit

If you live no higher than the second floor, then using a powerful puncher, drill through hole in an external wall with a diameter of 8 cm. The recommendations for a hole of 60 mm or 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.

Important! Before you start punching a hole, be sure to fence off the section of the street under the wall with tape so that a piece of plaster or concrete does not damage people or someone's car.

• The back wall of the block should not fit snugly against the wall of the house.
• The distance between the blocks should not exceed 15 meters, and the height level between them should not exceed 3 meters.
• Brackets must necessarily withstand the weight of the equipment, taking into account various weather conditions.
• Do not install the outdoor unit directly under the drain hose, as the freon tube is also led out there. It is better to step aside by 40-50 cm, otherwise the moisture accumulating in the condenser will fall on the inner wall of the air conditioning compressor.
• When installing equipment, make sure that the unit is located strictly horizontally, without any slopes. Control the installation of the outdoor unit using the building level.
• Fasten the unit to the brackets using powerful bolts.

Important! It is advisable to install a canopy over the block to protect it from precipitation.

Stage number 4. Mounting the indoor unit

The indoor unit is mounted on the wall in the room. Before proceeding with the installation, be very careful about its placement. The unit must be located at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling - this is necessary for the efficiency of the system, and at a certain distance from the walls.

Important! All these parameters are indicated in the device passport.

The indoor unit must be placed strictly horizontally so that all the condensate goes into the drainage system, otherwise water stains on the floor cannot be avoided.

Important! In the product delivery set, there must be a special mounting plate that is attached to the wall, and on which the unit itself is hung.

Stage number 5. Piping connection

According to the planned route of electrical wiring and freon pipes, make grooves (strobes) in the wall using a grinder with a diamond disc or a wall chaser. There is another option - the entire highway can be hidden in plastic decorative boxes or the wires can be closed with skirting boards.

Important! In order not to make a mistake and connect all the pipes correctly, read the installation instructions for the split system.

1. Measure the required length of copper tubing. To do this, measure the distance between the block cranes.
2. Cut them off with a margin of at least 1 m. The excess will go to the bends. Remember that the tubes must be bent very carefully to prevent wrinkles and kinks. The permissible bending radius of the tubes is at least 10 cm.
3. Put heat insulators on the refrigerant pipes - polyurethane foam hoses or flex heat insulation. In some kits, heat insulators are supplied.
4. Put threaded flanges on the tubes, and flare the ends.
5. Connect pipelines to fittings. The main thing is not to confuse the connection. Many climate system manufacturers have made cold and hot fittings of different diameters. Tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not tight. When sealing, you will tighten the threaded connections.
6. For the drainage system, prepare a piece of reinforced plastic tube.
7. Connect the tubing to the waste outlet using a threaded flange or heat shrink tubing. The drainage must be installed at a slope of at least 5-10 mm so that the water flows naturally.
8. Connect wiring between units. The main thing is not to confuse the terminals for connecting the indoor and outdoor units; for this, use a cable with multi-colored wires.

Thus, you practically installed a split system with your own hands. It remains only to invite a specialist to seal, evacuate and start the system. The main thing is that you have kept the warranty on the equipment and saved the lion's share of the installation costs.

If you want to see how the next steps go, then read on.

Stage number 6. Sealing and evacuation

To check the tightness, you can use a leak detector, or you can use the old folk way- soap solution.

To prepare a solution:

1. Purchase 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy.
2. Heat up the water.
3. Drop a bar of laundry soap into the water.

The next steps are:

1. Connect the rubber hose of the bicycle pump to the exhaust nipple.
2. Apply soapy water to the threaded connection with a brush.
3. Pump up the air and watch for the appearance of bubbles.
4. After the bubbles stop appearing, tighten the threaded connection an additional ⅛ turn.
5. After finishing work, remove the soapy solution with a damp cloth.

Important! It is better to work on checking the sealing with two people: one pumps air, in the second - applies a soapy solution and monitors the bubbles.

After checking the sealing, the system must be evacuated, that is, to remove dust, moisture and air that have got there. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure the effective operation of the device.

Vacuum is carried out using a special pump connected to the system using a manometric manifold and flexible hoses:

1. Turn on the pump and open the port on the outdoor unit.
2. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port.
3. Turn off the pump.
4. This entire process can take up to 15 minutes. However, do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position.

Important! Leave the pressure gauges in place so that you can check the pressure in the system again during testing.

Stage number 7. Testing

For testing, fill the system with freon from a cylinder through a special adapter on which a pressure gauge is installed.

Important! You can start the refrigerant only after you make sure that everything is done tightly.

It is necessary to carry out the refrigerant injection in the following sequence:

1. Open the feeding tube.
2. Open the suction tube.
3. Wait until the pressure gauge shows the pressure indicated in the instructions.
4. Turn off the freon supply.

Important! Freon air conditioners cannot be filled with freon, and vice versa.

Further actions:

1. During testing, turn on the disconnector so that the air conditioner enters the mode itself. If this does not happen, then start the test using the remote control.
2. Let the device work for about 15 minutes so that the freon is distributed over all the tubes and make a control pressure measurement.

We hope that the information in the article helped you understand the operation of the split system and the stages of its installation. If you have any doubts about your abilities and knowledge, then there is always the opportunity to turn to specialists, because now you have enough information to control their work.

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and classes. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and moisture for the most in a simple way. Agree, in the summer period there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.

After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home masters and for customers of installers' services to check proper execution.

We describe in detail the installation process, lists the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. A valuable addition to the text, which facilitates the perception of information, are photo and video applications.

When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.

The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of the split system are above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on a site near a window or on balcony slabs

There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:

• the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
• from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
• to a barrier that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.

For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the plates enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based on the technical requirements for the wall of the ventilation facade used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the mass of the installation unit

For a multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is located on the top floor, it will be necessary to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of equipment location is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on model range and characteristics.

Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be done arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between Daikin split system blocks is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route should be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to rely on additional expenses due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to start installing a split system on your own comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. Incredibly high amounts for the performance of the work, which takes 3 hours, are argued by the presence of expensive tools and its wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the services of the master.

If the prices from split system installers are too high, it is worth installing with my own hands having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that preparatory work you can do it on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connecting to the electrical network, and carrying out the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware installation tools

It is possible to carry out independent installation of the cooling unit, because. most of the tools are in the suitcase home master. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of masters do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If, when installing the air conditioner yourself, it was not possible to find a vacuum pump, alternative can serve as a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower

During installation important aspect is the observance of the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check by the building level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

The following equipment will need to be prepared in advance:

1. Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which a route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
2. Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
3. Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
4. Device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
5. Roller of copper pipes.

Some believe that the use of a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.

Only after the beveler has been manipulated, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.

The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is carried out by the method of deformation of the tube according to the selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and round section are preserved.

According to the technical installation rules, a vacuum pump is required - the air conditioning system is sealed with this equipment. After filling the line with refrigerant, the process of evacuation is carried out.

Purchase of necessary materials

You will need a lot of components, but they are all easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.

Standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

You will also need to prepare thick-walled seamless pipes made of soft copper, designed for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected smaller and larger diameters. For more specific specifications, please refer to the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be plugged to protect against dust settling inside the product.

Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness

Foam rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in segments of 2 m. To implement measures for thermal insulation, a length equal to the length of the route will be required. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.

As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with a surcharge of 80 cm.

You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. Suitable size parts is determined by its dimensions, and the margin of safety for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing the bracket for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, do not make additional holes in it, because. this significantly reduces the margin of safety of the part

As fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box with standard dimensions of 60 * 80 cm.

Split system installation procedure

Installing an air conditioning system on your own is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions specifically for the purchased equipment model.

Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units

The indoor unit is to be installed first. Having decided on the location of its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling backlashes, plastic plugs for dowels are inserted, a card is hung and fixed with dowels.

The most thorough fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because. on this site are the latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using the building level, the exposure to the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is coming. First, the line of its location is calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. So, the formed condensate will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the units, it is required to check the hole designed to accommodate the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it is the turn of the installation of the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.

As in the first case, the strict horizontal position of the block must be maintained, therefore, a level is also used at the markup stage.

When positioning the outdoor unit, the limitation regarding its slope must be taken into account - the maximum allowable slope angle is 45°

At the time of installation of fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10 * 100 mm), regardless of their number. After that, the outdoor unit is exposed and also fixed with fasteners.

Stage # 2 - laying a communication line

With the help of an electric wire and two copper tubes, the connection between the outdoor and indoor units is carried out. Additionally, through the wall will be laid drainage system responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be properly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, you should prepare the copper pipes by cutting the desired length with a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, metal chips get inside the tube, which will circulate through the system and eventually lead to the failure of the compressor.

To lead copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust

Thermal insulation of tubes is carried out by putting polyurethane foam hoses on them. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a sealant - it has a short service life. After completing the measures for thermal insulation, all the connecting sections of the material are tightly glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with tongs.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both units, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.

The drain tube is connected to a special outlet on the indoor unit and is led out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, its laying is carried out at an angle to the exit to the outside. Requires fixing with clamps every meter of length to eliminate sagging in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate.

Stage # 3 - connecting the system blocks

Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount in freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: bring it into the sewer or into the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it is not widely used.

When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, sagging is also not allowed - condensate will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.

For the outer part of the device, a similar procedure is performed, but many people ignore it. If a polymer pipe is used instead of a hose, an appropriate adapter is selected. With it, connect the output of the block and the tube.

To connect copper pipes, you need to initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.

The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and a sharp crease. First of all, they are connected to the indoor unit. To do this, loosen the nuts on the respective ports.

When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped at the time of production to eliminate the oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal chips from entering the system.

The edges of the pipes in a section of 5 cm are aligned. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the input and output of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness, in the process of moving freon.

The flared end of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and fixed with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices here - sealants, gaskets, etc. The applied copper tubes provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly compress the fitting, and the contact will be tight

Similar actions are done with all four ports. After connecting, the last stage of the installation of the air conditioning system follows - the elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.

Stage #4 - evacuation of the system

During installation work, air enters the air conditioner tubes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles adversely affect all details. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when it comes into contact with water. As a result, the wear of components will accelerate.

Two methods can be used to remove air: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid that descends from a block located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with little surplus.

The “puff” method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, the plugs are unscrewed on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of a larger diameter. Under its cover is a hexagon socket. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90 ° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. With a second finger pressure on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal of air, the spool outlet is screwed with a plug, and the valves open completely and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, insignificant factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without stripping the rim, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful in all details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the issue of installing split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.

Unlike mobile air coolers, which consist of a single unit, household split systems require additional financial costs for installation. It is quite possible to reduce costs: study the detailed guide on how to install a new air conditioner in an apartment and do the installation yourself.

Preparatory stage

Split systems are most often used for air conditioning of private houses and apartments, as they are reliable, convenient and compact. The air conditioning unit consists of two blocks - internal and external, interconnected by two freon tubes, an electric cable and a drainage line.

Warning. When buying a new air conditioner, consider important nuance: all freon is pumped into the outdoor module, and the indoor one is empty. Do not open the valves on the side of the machine until the piping is connected.

Installation of "splits" is much more difficult than installing floor and window air conditioners. Here, 2 separate blocks must be correctly placed outside and inside the room, lay and hermetically connect the lines. The issue of connecting to the mains is solved more simply - a line is laid to the installed indoor module, protected by a circuit breaker.

What to do before starting self-assembly:

1. Buy additional materials.
2. Prepare special tools and fixtures.
3. Determine the location of both units and the route for laying highways with freon.

The location of the split system units is subject to certain rules. The flow of cooled air from the indoor unit should not directly blow people, and the maximum distance from the outdoor unit should not exceed 5 m. Most often, the unit is placed on the side partition next to the window and the outer wall. Technological indents from walls and ceilings are indicated in the diagram.

Now some tips on where to install the outdoor unit:

Note. Inverter-type air conditioners are quieter than conventional ones, but the fan noise is still audible at night.

List of tools and materials

The following installation materials are not included in the delivery of the split system, they will need to be purchased independently:

• metal bracket for suspension of the outdoor module (you can weld it yourself from steel equal-shelf angles 35 x 3 mm);
• four-core copper cable type VVG with a cross section of 1.5 or 2.5 mm², depending on the power of the cooler;
• tubes of freon pipelines copper with a diameter of 6.35 mm and 9.52 mm of the required length;
• rubber heat-insulating sleeve of the K-Flex type along the length of the line;
• corrugated drainage pipe (metal-plastic Ø16 mm is also suitable);
• winding tape PVA or PVC;
• polyurethane foam - 1 bottle.

Note. Depending on the conditions for laying inter-unit highways, a plastic cable channel or dry mortar may be needed to seal the furrow.

In addition to a home set of locksmith tools, installing an air conditioner requires the use of special tools and equipment:

• perforator with a long drill or crown drill for concrete;
• vacuum pump;
• manifold with pressure gauges and hoses;
• device for manual flaring of copper pipes and scissors that do not form metal chips.

Often on the Internet there are instructions on how to install and run a split system without a vacuum pump, where the air from the pipelines and the evaporative heat exchanger is pushed out by freon pressure. We categorically advise against following such recommendations and strictly observing the technology of evacuating the system before filling. Otherwise, the compressor may fail much earlier than the due date.

Advice. There is a way to save money on buying or renting a rolling tool and speed up the assembly of freon lines. Ready-made installation kits are available for sale, including factory flared tubes, insulation and a cable with a drain hose. The price depends on the length of the bundle (3, 5 or 7 m).

Air conditioner installation instructions

It is assumed that you have already purchased a split system of the required cooling capacity, you know exactly the dimensions of the devices and have allocated places for them. Installation work is carried out in several stages:

1. Marking the route for laying inter-unit communications, supplying electricity and sawing a furrow in the wall (if necessary).
2. Fixing the indoor unit, laying lines through the wall and connecting.
3. Installation of an external module, connection of communications.
4. Refrigerant charge and start up.

Depending on the conditions of the work, the main bundle is laid in two ways: openly in the PVC cable duct or hidden inside the wall. Use the first option in a residential apartment, the second - in the process of repairing the premises.

Reference. Ninety percent of manufacturers of split systems provide for the output of communications from the left end of the indoor unit. When hanging to the left of the window and hidden laying of pipelines, the groove in the wall will have to be cut out with a turn, as shown in the photo.

The first stage of work is carried out as follows:

How to make furrows yourself and prepare for the installation of an air conditioner, an experienced master will tell in his video:

Indoor unit installation

Before starting work, take the device out of the box and read the attached technical documentation, where the manufacturer makes his own requirements for the installation of the product and provides a diagram. Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner according to the step-by-step instructions:

Advice. In order not to peel off the winding tape of the bundle, it is better to insert a plastic sleeve into the technological hole. Alternatively, make it from a plastic bottle.

After hanging the indoor unit, straighten the wiring harness and lay it inside the furrows. At open method gaskets, immediately install the cable - channel and hide the pipelines there. How to accurately connect the highways, see the video:

Outdoor module installation

Mounting the unit on the balcony will not cause any particular difficulties. When installing under a window, secure yourself with insurance and have an assistant support you while screwing the bracket and outdoor unit. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

Advice. In order not to get out of the window waist-deep, tightening the nuts under the bracket, buy special plastic clamps or make them yourself. The bolt is inserted into the corner, a lock in the form of a washer is put on the thread and prevents it from falling out. At the end, the module fastening nuts are screwed with a long socket wrench, as is done in the video.

Startup instructions

At this stage, it is important to remove air and water vapor from the freon circuit by vacuuming. Then the lines are filled with refrigerant pumped into the outdoor unit at the factory. To refuel a new air conditioner, the following technology is used:

After successful refueling of the lines and the indoor module, turn on the split system for cooling, then test it in different operating modes. Make sure that the condensate flows from the drain and not along the wall under the indoor unit. Do not forget to close the ends of the service ports with standard plugs and put the cover on.

Conclusion

The success of the event depends heavily on the quality of the installation work. If you are careless when installing the air conditioner, then at best you will lose freon, and with it the money saved on calling the masters will fly into the atmosphere. In the worst case, the compressor will “grab” steam or dirt that has entered the pipeline, and will fail in just a year. So take your time and pay close attention to all connections.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Related posts:

Smirnov Pavel Petrovich

Experienced specialist in ventilation and air conditioning systems. He has been working in this field for over 15 years.

Articles written

To install the air conditioner, many seek the help of specialists who issue a special document confirming the work done correctly.

Regarding the installation of a split system with your own hands, you cannot use warranty service. Before you decide to install an air conditioner with your own hands, you need to understand that such an occupation is quite troublesome, time-consuming.

The process involves a number of actions: selection of the appropriate kit for installation, right choice places, installation of blocks. The most common, affordable option such a technique is a split system, because it has a minimum of disadvantages and increased efficiency.

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system

Below we consider detailed instructions for the installation of split systems, but for now, you must first know that the work will consist of the following steps:

• selection of the most suitable place;
• fixing the air conditioner;
• installation work with an internal compartment;
• performing a test run.

List of required materials:

• brackets;
• reinforced tape;
• electric cables;
• thermal insulation;
• anchor;
• copper tubes.

During the installation process, you can not do without such a special tool:

• vacuum pump;
• pipe bender and rolling;
• rimmer-sweep;
• manometric manifold and pipe cutter.

The indoor unit must be installed so that during use there is no discomfort caused by strong cold air.

Many people think about buying an air conditioner only in the summer, when the prices for such equipment are too high. To save money, there is a completely reasonable solution - buying an air conditioner and installing it in the winter.

Performing a device installation in winter period quite possible. Installation of the device in the cold, namely the fastening of modules and the connection of blocks, is no different from similar actions in warm weather.

It is important to know at what temperature there may be problems. The main difficulties with vacuumization, filling the system arise if the air temperature is below five degrees below zero. Work, turning on the air conditioner at a low temperature is fraught with it.

Connecting an air conditioner

There are two proven methods by which you can independently connect the device, namely through or using a separate wire to the electrical panel.

By installing a residual current device, you can protect the device from network overload and voltage surges. Thanks to a separate line, it is possible to place the modules in absolutely any place. It is advisable to take into account the list of important requirements put forward to the line:

• copper conductors;
• the presence of a separate grounding along the entire line;
• AZO or RCD;
• compliance of the wire diameter with the size set by the manufacturer.

Electrical harnesses are passed into the protective hose, after which they are placed in an appropriate plastic box, which will help avoid damage to the integrity of the walls.

Home socket requirements:

• good grounding is desirable;
• connection to the automatic protection board.

To properly connect the device, you can use the wire of the section that is marked for a particular model. Do not pull wires near heating, gas. Place the harnesses in the strobes, carefully secure with clamps.

Layout of split system elements

As for the principle, technology for connecting modules, it is absolutely similar. First you need to remove the front panel, it performs a decorative function. Remove the protection cover and the cable clamp at the bottom. Pull the cable through the opening in the wall, remove the protective insulation 3 cm from the end from each core. Insert the ends into the terminals, tighten the screws. Strengthen the wires, replace the cover. After connecting the units, you should carefully check the correctness of all connections by checking the diagrams, after which a trial connection is allowed.

How to install a split system yourself

Action algorithm:

Fixing the indoor unit

Take the mounting steel frame, then attach it horizontally to the wall using the level where the hair dryer will be. Carefully mark all attachment points, make holes with a puncher and hammer plastic dowels. Fix the plate with self-tapping screws. Hang the hair dryer, checking the level.

Preparatory work with communication channels

To independently mount the device, you should correctly prepare the channel for the highway. Make appropriate holes in the wall, using a perforator, pass the refrigerant circuit pipe. In the process of drilling, it is necessary to make a not very sharp slope in order to form a full-fledged path for the discharge of the resulting condensate.

Fixing the outdoor unit

This is the most difficult part of the work, since the mass of the block can exceed twenty kilograms. Often it is necessary to mount at a sufficiently high height. Using a level, make markings, make holes of the desired diameter with a puncher. Screw in the anchor bolts, fasten the brackets. After that, it is allowed to mount the external unit. During the installation process, you will need the help of at least one person. If the height is too high, it is advisable to contact climbers. Given the fact that the module is bolted, it is advisable to place rubber under the legs, this will help reduce possible vibration.

Connecting two modules

Remove all protective plastic covers from the terminals of the outdoor module, then carefully connect all the cables coming from the indoor unit. Install the split system route, not forgetting to perform thermal insulation on the pipes. To prevent debris from getting into them, the ends can be sealed with reinforced tape. Attach the track to the wall with clamps, cut off the tubes, but there should be a margin of ten centimeters, union nuts are attached to them. Chamfer with a special rimmer. Attach the tubes to the fittings of the outdoor and indoor units with union nuts. Then carefully attach the drainage tube, for this you can take plastic clamps.

Vacuum procedure

Before you start freon, you need to perform evacuation using a collector, a pump. As for the pump, it should be connected to the fitting through the manifold, turned on for half an hour. This time is enough to eliminate the air. When the pump is turned on, you need to open the handle, it is located under the pressure gauge. After the procedure, turn off the faucet, which is located on the manifold, then you can turn off the pump.

Freon filling

You can start the refrigerant with a hex key by opening the valve. After filling the route with freon, the hose is unscrewed. It is important to know that during the process of disconnecting the hose, refrigerant may be released, and this is fraught with damage to the eyes and frostbite of the hands. Gloves and goggles will help to avoid trouble. Unscrew the fitting from the valve quickly so as not to lose freon. Soap possible leaks, check the plugs.

After making sure that it is 100% tight, you can perform a test run of the device, then check the connections again.