Make a wooden gate with your own hands. Wooden gates: beautiful, reliable and affordable (23 photos)

Even with today's abundance of the most diverse building materials many home craftsmen make wooden gates with their own hands. Their love for wood is understandable. Hardly any modern material will surpass it in beauty and ability to enliven the appearance of any design. Of course, wooden products are not without drawbacks, including:

• high fire hazard;
• low moisture resistance;
• relatively short service life;
• low surface strength;
• big mass.

In addition, wooden gates need frequent maintenance (for example, painting). Nevertheless, there are many tools that relieve wood from most of its shortcomings. These include:

• flame retardants;
• antiseptic impregnations;
• various paint finishes.

Don't forget about right choice wood for building gates. Coniferous trees are most suitable for this purpose, but the best performance larch has moisture resistance and strength. At the same time, its wood is also the heaviest, so larch structures, gate frames and support pillars must be especially strong. A cheap alternative to it is pine. It is less durable, but much lighter than dense larch.

Once upon a time, wooden gates were made practically without the use of other materials. Even logs dug into the ground were used as poles. Only awnings, nails, or some decorative elements. And today, forged parts are in demand, but it no longer makes sense to install wooden poles. Instead, it is more expedient to put steel or brick. V last resort pipe supports can be masked with wooden overlays, but they will only perform a design function.

Wooden gate on a metal frame

Do-it-yourself sash frames and wickets for gates made of wood can be made from both wood and metal profiles.

Figure 1. Drawing of a wooden gate.

What the combined design looks like is shown in the diagram (Fig. 1). First, we will make such a structure, such a project is the easiest to implement, especially for a person who knows how to handle a welding machine.

For the construction of the gate, you can use the presented scheme. You may need to make some changes to it regarding the height of the structure and the width of the wings. It is necessary to start work with measurements and drawing up a drawing not only in order to perform it qualitatively, but also to purchase the right amount Supplies:

• profile pipes 80 x 80 mm for poles;
• profile pipes 40 x 40 (40 x 20) mm for sash frames and jibs;
• boards 100 x 25 mm for sheathing the door leaf and wicket;
• ball loops with a cross section of at least 25 mm;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• lock fittings;
• steel plates for plugs on the ends of the pillars;
• cement, sand and gravel;
• various impregnations for processing metal and wood.

You will also need:

• grinder;
• welding machine;
• jigsaw (hacksaw, circular saw);
• drill driver;
• square;
• level;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• shovel or drill.

Mark the locations for the supports and dig or drill holes. The diameter of the pits must be at least 20 cm larger than the cross section of the pipes. The pillars must be dug into the ground by at least 1/3 of the length. A pillow of sand and gravel is poured into the pits. Its thickness is 10-15 cm. The bedding is rammed and soaked with water. Pillars are installed in the pits, but before digging them in, you should:

• plug at the ends (the bottom plug must be larger than the pipe section);
• remove rust;
• treat with an anti-corrosion compound;
• cover the lower third of the column with bituminous mastic.

Supports are installed on the level or plumb. Reinforcement is laid in the pits and concrete is poured. While it hardens, gate frames and wickets are made.

Making and hanging sashes

The ends of the profile pipes are cut at a right angle or an angle of 45 °. Racks and horizontal lintels are assembled together on a flat surface. The square checks how correctly the sashes are assembled (more precisely, the assembly quality is checked with a tape measure, which measures the diagonals of the structure). The vertical and horizontal frame elements are finally welded. The jibs are cut out and also welded to the frames. The installation of shutters and gates is carried out only 2 weeks after pouring the foundation pits under the supports with concrete.

Gate open position limiter: 1 - post, 2 - latch, 3 - leaf frame.

Before hanging the hinges, all frames should be securely fixed between the posts. After that, the places for installing canopies are marked. Then they are welded to the supports and frames. Locking fittings are mounted on the sashes and the gate. All structures are cleaned of burrs, scale, rust and covered with an anti-corrosion compound, primer and paint.

Now the frames remain to be sheathed with planed boards. You should know that it will not work to make a wooden gate with high quality if the wood is not pre-dried in a place inaccessible to direct sunlight (the drying time of the boards is 1.5-2 weeks). After drying and trimming to size, the lining is successively impregnated with an antiseptic and flame retardant.

Before screwing the fasteners, holes are made in the boards. After screwing in the screws, they are treated with an antiseptic. Boards do not need to be stacked close to each other. Leave a small gap between them to compensate for the expansion. An equal gap between the skin elements will be obtained if strips of the same thickness are laid between them. After its installation, the wood is covered with paint or varnish.

The shape of the gate sheathing does not have to be rectangular at all. In addition, boards can be placed inside a steel frame made of corrugated pipes or corners. The supporting pillars can be lined with bricks. In this case, mortgages are welded to them, to which hinges will be attached when the gate is installed. Under the brick pillars, you need to build a foundation, and the cavity inside the masonry is filled with concrete.

wood frame

Building wooden gates with your own hands, in which not only sheathing, but also frame elements are cut out of wood, is somewhat more difficult than combined ones. In this work, the main thing is to ensure the maximum accuracy of measuring parts. Shortcomings in their processing are immediately evident, and it is very difficult to eliminate them.

Scheme of the corner connection of the gate frame with a hinge: a - corner connection of the wooden gate frame, b - hinge on reinforced concrete pillars, 1 - reinforced concrete pillar, 2 - sash frame, 3 - barn hinge, 4 - overlay, 5 - slab, 6 - nails.

It is quite difficult to ensure sufficient rigidity of the structure of beams and boards. The connection of the crossbeams and the racks of the sashes must be carried out in a tenon-groove. Spikes are arranged on horizontal elements, and grooves - on vertical ones. Additionally, the frames are reinforced with jibs and central crossbars.

1. For racks, jumpers and the central crossbar, you need to use a bar with a section of at least 50 x 70 mm.
2. Bars 50 x 50 mm will go to the jibs.
3. For sheathing boards 100 x 25 mm are used.

Installation of wooden gates is carried out after:

• digging in pillars;
• planing of wood;
• sawing it into blanks;
• frame assembly;
• clapboard lining;
• hinge installation.

After planing and sawing, all blanks are treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant. Joints in the tenon-groove must be fixed with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled through the thorns-grooves in the wings, wooden rods of a larger section are hammered into them. Additionally, at the points of adhesion of the frame elements in advance drilled holes screws are screwed in. The diameter of the holes should be slightly smaller than the cross section of the fastener. Before the final tightening of the elements, the frame is checked for squareness (the verification method is described above). If necessary, it is restored by lightly tapping on the end parts of the frame with a mallet.

After assembling the racks and crossbars, the jibs are attached to the frame. They go from the corner parts of the frame to the central crossbar. Marking before trimming the jibs is best done by attaching the bars to the assembled frame. The corner parts of the bars will be cut in the shape of the letter "L", and the ends at the crossbars will be cut at an angle of 45 °. The boards are attached to the doors with self-tapping screws. Hinges are screwed to the horizontal bars. Now the gates are hung on poles.

If you decide that the gate supports should also be wooden, install larch or oak beams. In addition to treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant, the part of the pillars immersed in the ground must be coated with melted bitumen.

Good afternoon, today I will tell you about all-all ways of making gates with your own hands. In this article, we will make swing WOODEN gates ... But I also told in the same detail about metal gates - in a special article Metal gates - 50 photo ideas (from forging to metal profile).

So... today you will find out ALL SECRETS... and all principles... and nuances of how to make a wooden gate yourself - from scratch - without any skills in this area. Generally! That is, you can be a green newlywed student ... or a novice dacha-pensioner ... or a pampered city lady who inherited a village house ... yes, anyone. If you need a NEW GATE for a summer residence or a garden ... then ... my article is designed just for TO TEACH you to brilliantly make any gates- at least for themselves, at least for sale to neighbors ... Believe me, judging your skill, the neighbors themselves will come running to you with a desire to buy the same gate model (... and what, a good summer cottage business ... and fun at the same time).

Now let's get down to business... Making and installing gates - who knows, maybe this will be your new profession ... with my light hand.

Here is what we will do:

• Wooden RAIL gates ON THE FRAME (several types)
• Wooden FRAME gates (with sheathing or crate)
• Wooden GATES-PORTALS (with pergola-crate)
• Wooden gates with ROUND ARCHES (designer and simple)

Yes, yes, all this you WILL WANT and BE ABLE to do it yourself… After you read this article…

So, let's go ... Chapter One ... Let's start with a simple one (so as not to frighten off faith in the success of the gate project) ...

Wooden garden gates - RAIL (i.e. from rails, boards)

Everyone and everywhere saw such gates ... in old movies about village life... in my barefoot childhood in the summer vacation expanse with my grandmother ... at my friends' dacha.

These gates are called FRAME gates ... because. they have a FRAME-HOLDER on which the laths of the RATING are stuffed.

That is, this is the SIMPLE MODEL of a gate for a summer residence or a garden - which consists of two parts - a FRAME ... and PADDING RAILS.

Here in the picture (above and below) we see a standard gate WithZ frame. That is, first we do frame in the shape of a letterZ, and then we stuff 6-8 wide or narrow slats (boards) on it. The hinges for hanging the gate to the pole are attached to the horizontal beams of the "letter Z" of our frame.
As you can see (in the photo below) ... on the sides of the gate you can attach NOT RAILES ... but THICKER BARS ... for the solidity of the product.

Hinged hinges may be different - the main thing when choosing loops is ACCOUNT FOR THE LOAD that these loops will carry. The heavier the gate you made, the stronger the fastening loops should be. Hinged gates are called swing gates ... because they swing open, i.e. open to one side.

Here one more option THE SAME principle of creating a rack gate (on a frame in the shape of the letter z)

But with ONE DIFFERENCE... here are the padding rails different lengths... in the center is longer, shorter towards the edges.

And it turns out beautiful wave along the top edge of the gate.

Or... look on the photo of the gate below - what an interesting addition invented here !!! Alternating low and high rails ...

By the way - the frame here is ordinary (not the letter Z), but just two slats from the bottom and top (- this is done for beauty, so as not to distract attention from the original crate)

... And it's worth it ... look how interesting the CRATE is made ...

The slats go CLOSE to each other - they are stuffed WITHOUT SLICES ...

but ... ALTERNATE long and short ...

THAT is we for crates we prepare 2 GROUPS OF RAILS — LONG group and SHORT group... And we do it this way - that inside our group the slats are also not the same in length (one central is the longest, next to it 2 are shorter, further 2 are shorter ... and so on to the edges.

RAIL PACKING we do WITH ALTERNATED groups… and sizes.... that is, CLOSER TO THE EDGES we fill slightly shortened slats ... and CLOSER TO THE CENTER a little longer.
As you can see... little change...(the designer just played with the long rails) - and what a beauty it turned out.

And now let's talk about the frame - for such RAIL FRAME GATES.

As we already understood...

... A FRAME for our country gate may look like not only in the shape of a letterZ …

Here are the pictures of the gates below - we see what can be done another frame for stuffing rails. Hourglass shaped... or triangle shaped… any frame silhouette will be correct. The main thing is that he fulfills his task - he holds the nailed boards of the crate.
Therefore, you can come up with your own frame shape (and this and that will be correct). Nothing limits your imagination. It all depends on what cuts of beams were found in your yard ... and how heavy your metal hinged hinges for the future gate will withstand ... (the more beams on the frame, the heavier the weight of the finished gate will be).

Here - in fact, you have already learned how to make a frame gate ...

… AND IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THIS wicket and swing GATES - IN THE SINGLE STYLE, then here is a photo idea for you ... (gate, gate and fence - everything made by the hands of a reasonable person)

Front view (beautiful)

Rear view - so that you understand what kind of frame is at the gate here ... see? The curved cross beams… very pretty.
(don't be scared bent beam shapes in the frame ... we will now smoothly approach this)

And here's something else I wanted to add about frame wooden gates ...

If your entrance portal to the courtyard is TOO WIDE, then the swing gate can be wide, double-leaf ... Consist of two halves swinging open in different directions. Here is a close-up photo of her, whoever needs it will come in handy.

now we will talk about the FRAME frame for gates ...

WOODEN GATES – WITH FRAME FRAME…

Let's see how this is done FRAME GATE on the specific example from the photo of the gate below. I even draw assembly diagram such a gate - because the visibility in the pictures is always clearer than just "a lot of beeches".

Such a gate is made according to the principle -

• knocked down a RAM from the bars ...
• filled the frame with CASING or crate (from boards, slats, plywood)

The connection of the bars can be SCREWED ... long screws are screwed obliquely ... at an angle.

OR ... you can connect the bars of the gate in the GROOVE-PIN way ... The bars in their barrel have HOLES-GROOVES (recesses) ... and at their ends I have EARS-PINS - the ears are driven into the grooves ( wooden mallet) and due to this, the frame elements are fastened.

On the diagram of the stages of ASSEMBLY OF SUCH A FRAME GATE - we see at the vertical bars of the upper crate - these very ears ... they are inserted into the holes on the bottom beam - and the upper beam of the frame is put on them (with their drilled grooves-holes falling into the ears of the crate bars).

Surely you are interested STEP 3… you probably have a question: “And what are these pins sticking out on the beams? And where can I get them?

I WILL TELL. We will fasten these beams in the same way - how the balusters are attached wooden stairs (gee-gee, you don’t know what balusters are?) These are the same sticks that are driven into the stairs at one end and into the railings at the other - they make up the stair railing, which prevents children from falling into flights of stairs)
Here they look like ... on the example of this carved BALUSTER BEAMS ... (by the way, at your gate, no one forbids you to use NOT SIMPLE ... but CARVED batten frames - it will be generally super).

So, these are the baluster beams are fastened with the PIN METHOD… Here's how to do it yourself. We need a thick drill ... and the same cutting thickness wooden stick(this one will have pins) (hmm, even simple hardwood pencils will do for this role, they will hold very well).

So, stocked up with a drill and pins ... we begin the process. At the end of our future beam-rails - we drill a hole of such thickness that our wooden stick-pin crawled through tightly. We drill to such a depth - so that this stick only partially fits there, 2-5 cm is enough ... and so that 2-5 cm of the stick remains sticking out ...

And in this way, having put on pins on the beams of the crate ... and holes on the beam of the wicket frame, ... we will fasten the BEAMS of the battens to the FRAME of the gate.

As you can see, everything is simple. According to the laws of mechanical physics (to increase the strength, you can smear the pins with any wood glue).

Approximately BY THE SAME TECHNOLOGY these gates are made from the photo below ...

That is, you can think of their designs… the main thing is to follow a single principle A FRAME IS NEEDED ... and ITS FILLING is needed (in the form of a crate with a board or a lath ... or in the form of plywood sheathing)

And WHAT THE FRAME WILL BE for the form is up to you ...

See how simple it really is...

You take and do - only 2 steps ... 1) Made the FRAME… 2) Made it FILLING. And everything is ready - drill holes, hang your new gate on the hinges ... And call the neighbors to grab ...

And then .. and swing gates can be made according to the same principle of FRAME FRAME + LATTICES and SHELLING ... Beauty ... And simplicity ...

A hinged GATE can have a FRAME OF ANY FORM...

Even arched with graceful curves ... and lopsided (with an oblique slope of the upper part) ... Like here, for example (photo of the gate below).

Bent elements of the FRAME (for the frame of the gate) - sawn out of a wide thick board (or wide beam) - ordinary circular saw.

Here's another version of a FRAME GATE with BENT bars... If you can order such bent bar elements, then the shape of your gate can become more interesting...

Or such a BENT FORM can be just CUT FROM A WIDE AND THICK BOARD... Draw on the board with a pencil the rounded outlines of the future (right and left) frame - and cut it out with a circular saw. Later assemble the frame- from three elements - two bent side and one lower straight beam.

Inside the frame - we insert the frame from the MID BEAM ... two CROSSED BEAM. Filling the lower part of the wicket frame plywood sheathing(we just fill a sheet of plywood) ... and fill the upper part with a beautiful diagonal lathing from slats.

Or here's another COMPLETELY ROUNDED GATE ...

Yes, I agree, this gate in the photo below is made of metal (those who carefully looked at the photo noticed) ... BUT ... what prevents us from making the same model of a wooden gate. Bars ... slats ... yes please !!! There would be pens with a hammer ... yes, eyes with a twinkle ...

Hint for those with an idea- semicircular elements of the crate ... we cut with a jigsaw from a sheet of plywood ... we draw such "arcs are not very wide" and cut them out with a jigsaw as in labor lessons at school ... And the upper arc-shaped beam ... we cut not from thin plywood ... and from a thick board, with a circular saw.

The filling of the wicket frame can be FULL (i.e. without holes)…

For example, you can simply nail a wooden frame - HORIZONTALLY with boards ... (as in the photo below) ...

Or board it DIAGONALLY with boards ... now I will tell you point by point how such a gate is made ...

1. We make a frame for the gate - we make it from bars (it can be rectangular, it can be with a rounded top)
2. A narrow rail is stuffed to the inner barrels of the frame ... firmly, firmly ... stuffed at an angle.
3. And then on this inner narrow river - a board is stuffed AN OBSOLETE ... moreover, it is stuffed on both sides of the gate - from the front and from the wrong side. So that there are no holes ... we fill the board with slats WITH GAPS between the boards 2 times narrower than the width of the board itself ... Thanks to this, the back, wrong side stuffing of the board will completely cover these slots (made by the front board).

Or you can fill at the bottom with plywood... top - butt-to-butt boards ... and for beauty on the bottom sheet of plywood sheathing fill a thin lath - in the form of a diagonal lattice-pattern. And paint it one color.

DON'T BE AFRAID…. Do it. The picture is clear ... in fact, it's simple.

You can start with the most simple options... Everything will work out ... and you will be proud of yourself - so skillful and skilled (oh yes, the guy, snap it up !!!)

And also ... if you have extra money ... or a familiar blacksmith, well done ... then such a FRAME gate can be supplemented with forging elements ... That is, in the crate of the gate, use NOT WOODEN BALUSTERS ... but metal fence- forged or welded. Here is how it is done in the photo of the gate below.

And we continue...

AND NOW IT WILL BE VERY COOL))))

WOODEN GATES ... WITH ENTRANCE PORTAL ...

Portal to another world... Oh! how beautiful and promising it sounds... But really your territory ... your garden ... this is a different world, with an atmosphere of comfort and hospitality that you and your family have created yourself.

So why not make a gate in the form of a PORTAL to happiness ...

The easiest option is in the photo below. It looks good if there are tall bushes nearby ... lush trees ... or a plant creeping along the portal.

And in the photo below we see how small arc-shaped wire frame thrown between the left and right support pillars of the gate. A wildly blooming bindweed is specially thrown over this iron wire pergola - and a beautiful portal strewn with flowers is created ... The gate opens and, passing under the flowery vault, we feel a wonderful aroma.

More ... the entrance portal to the garden can be arranged in the shape of a PERGOLA…(a pergola is a column that supports a crate of beams). On the site "Family Handful" I devoted several articles to these wonderful structures ... see . Pergolas - how to make your own SIMPLE LESSONS.

This is how here - 4 beams on the left and on the right - they hold two horizontal beams ... a crate of boards is stuffed on them. The gate can be any (in the photo below we see a forged gate)

And here is another version of the PERGOLA-PORTAL ...

There’s nothing wrong here either ... it’s just something awful in appearance ...

but in reality… at a look-X-ray… we see that here…

• ... 2 powerful thick beams each hold a BEAM WITH SLOTS ... there are three slots ... (the beam-column holds this beam with the help of an ordinary metal paw-thrust - they are black with 4 screws in the photo)
• 3 horizontal boards are inserted into the slot ...
• and on top of the boards there is a stuffing-crate with thick slats.

Everything! Finished!

Your son has already built this from Lego ... and your designer will be larger, and that's the whole difference.

The scheme, as you can see, is not complicated (drawing of the 9th grade). They took a friend to help and muddied a grandiose project ... And we already know how to make a gate (mind you, a frame one) (just learned how).

And here is another model of a gate for a summer residence - with a canopy roof ... it is a little overgrown with bindweed ... but through the green foliage you can see what is here ....

• support columns… 2 on the left and 2 on the right…
• We put a beam on each pair of columns - a left beam and a right beam.
• On these side bars - we put the roof on... the drawing of the roof-canopy will be in the form two silhouettes of the letter-A, knocked together from beams. Such beam beeches-A need 2 pieces (rear frame and front frame) which are interconnected by a beam - the ends of which are nailed to the tops of these beeches A.

And the model of the gate from the first lesson of our article is an ordinary frame in the form of the letter Z - and a crate with a board - which was then (after stuffing on the frame) cut out with a saw in a semicircle. It turned out very soft.

Wooden gates WITH ARCH VOD…

And here is another variation of the design of frame gates for the garden ... This is when the SUPPORT PILLARS of our gate - continue upward - forming arched bend.

That is, we made a gate ... installed support poles ... hung on the gate ( metal hinges)… and we live… And suddenly we wanted to add something… And we decide to make an ARCHED Vault…

On a thick board (the same thickness as the supporting pillars) draw halves of the arc - cut them out - fasten one common arc together - and install it on the pillars of the support - one edge of the arc on one pillar - the second on the other pillar. The fastening of the elements of the arc can be done by the same GROOVE-PIN METHOD (which I spoke about above in this article).

Here are some more variations on the same theme...
A) a gray gate - here we insert the arc between the supporting pillars of the gate - and we sit down and fix it on the screws. And we also cut out the boardwalk of the gate itself according to a round stencil.

B) green gate - to arched structure support pillars ADD PILLARS HOLDING A PERGOLA… along which a green vine winds.

Usually these hedges are always made of bricks.(this is the most economical material) ... and then either plastered ... and painted in a color you like. Nearby you can hang a flashlight(very cozy and fabulous) ... and be sure to have more greenery around - there will be effect of an old italian house.

Or the facade of such a brick arch-hedge is tiled with stone imitating tiles.

And yet ... wooden gates can be made from UNPROCESSED WOOD ... or rather, processed by time ... and not by a carpentry machine

GATES FROM DRY WOODS… DRY BEAM AND BOUNCES.

If you live in an area rich in windbreak and dead wood, then you don’t have to go far for the material for the gate.
Here are some gentle design things you can do for your garden...
Precisely as garden gate I offer this option. For the front part of the house, such a gate, of course, will not work ... but for a corner of peace and quiet, for a lushly overgrown corner of your hacienda, such a gate will be very useful (if this is permissible by the general design plan of your garden).

And here is an example of a gate made of the same twigs.

That's all for today ... That's how many wooden swing gates we made today - in our minds ... It remains only to do it with our own hands now - in life.

I really hope that this article has given you COURAGE and the itch of a CREATIVE EXPERIMENT.

Now the spirit of the JOINER is sitting in you. It's time to go looking for the right timbers and boards for your idea... or vice versa to push the birth of an idea from the materials available.

And she wrote (and in some places drew) this article - a woman.

Because ... only a woman can inspire a man to create beauty. What I actually did these two days for 16 hours.
So go and create (and I will go and finally sing ...)

Olga Klishevskaya, specially for the site

Take care of family heaps ... These are your legs and arms.
These are your ears and eyes ... and a source of warmth and affection.

If did you like this article
And you want to thank for this painstaking work of a free author,
then you can send any amount convenient for you
on the his personal Poison wallet - 410012568032614

Wooden gates can be quite attractive, but only if you take into account all the necessary nuances when installing them. Knowing the technology of their creation helps a lot to save money and get the result you need.

There will be no need to explain to designers and developers what exactly is required of them, to carefully select the delivery package, and so on.

Peculiarities

You can make gates out of wood either sliding or swinging; no one makes them lifting and lifting-turning, because this excessive complication of the design is not always realizable.

The type of wood laying allows you to make the fence either solid or discontinuous, divided into blocks.

Advantages and disadvantages

The obvious positive aspects of wood are:

• Availability. Finding the right material in any quantity is easy;
• Relatively affordable prices . Much less than the metal fee for a similar design;
• Ease of handling and installation. Almost anyone can make wooden gates, and their installation is much easier than installing steel ones;
• No need for welding equipment;
• Sufficiently long service life and the reliability of the structure being created (if everything is done correctly and the care is in accordance with the norm);
• Ease of repair. Replacing a board is much easier than correcting defects in a metal sheet or profile.

The disadvantages of wood are also quite obvious: this is both a relatively lower strength and susceptibility to fire (special processing only lowers it, in addition increasing the cost of the entire structure). It will be necessary to treat wooden products with means that stop the process of decay.

Kinds

It is not necessary to create simple wooden structures, a very competent step is to use beautiful gates. The main difference is always in how the parts are connected to each other. The traditional solution is a hinged product, which is made simpler than other types and serves flawlessly for a long time.

You can select such groups of gates from a tree as:

• "Chess";
• Made from picket fence;
• Deaf closed fences.

Sheathing is done as metal frame, and on wood. In urban conditions and with an acute shortage of space, retractable structures are in demand much more than classic swing systems. The only problem is that they are created much harder and require the mandatory involvement of professionals.

Please also note that the bearing mechanism with automatic rollers is expensive and capricious; if handled carelessly, it easily fails. It is possible to mount carved elements on any type of wooden gate both from above, and from below, and on the frontal plane.

materials

Wooden gates will show all their advantages only with careful selection of the appropriate material. In many cases, steel frames simply sheathed with wood are used - this is a relatively heavy option, but it is stronger and safer than solid wood construction.

Expensive valuable wood species are used only occasionally, in most cases limited to simple pine details. After all, they are quite beautiful, allow you to create a pleasant appearance and at the same time are very resistant to destructive influences. Budget projects provide for the creation of gates mainly from a picket fence.

Dimensions

Standard sizes gate - 300-400 cm wide. Keep in mind that your needs may be far more important than this generally accepted standard.

When the site is built up, it is desirable to make a wider passage so that trucks and special equipment can easily drive in and out. Be sure to leave a gap from the bottom edge to the ground, otherwise it will be inconvenient to use the gate when snow melts, an ice crust forms or after heavy rain.

Style and design

The antique gates look elegant and romantic, and this is exactly the case when pine details are unsuitable. A relatively economical solution to the problem is the use of larch, and the density makes it possible to prevent the action of many negative factors.

Alternatively, you can use iron gates with forging elements that mimic the look natural wood. It would be even better to fill the sashes wooden details. To connect such dissimilar materials will help bolts equipped with a semi-countersunk head without edges. The frame needs to be drilled, then the boards are pulled up to it by 2 or 4 fasteners. The nut is always left with inside designs.

How to do it yourself?

Anyone can make wooden gates and gates, even people who do not have much experience in such matters. But success cannot be achieved if you do not prepare a good set of tools and materials. It always includes:

• Pencils, rasps;
• Squares, screwdrivers, levels, self-tapping screws;
• Planers, plumb lines, crowbars;
• Tanks for the preparation of concrete mortar;
• Bars made of wood;
• Metal constipation;
• canopy;
• hinges;
• A set of rails or a picket fence for the outer skin of frames.

Before buying lumber, you should find out the required size (height) of the structure, the size of the gate. We must not forget that it will be necessary to deepen the support pillars by 1 m into the ground otherwise stability cannot be guaranteed.

Before starting the installation, each wooden pole is completely impregnated with antiseptic agents, and the underground parts are additionally treated with resins or bituminous mastics.

The territory must be prepared: stones are removed, clods of earth are broken and leveled. It is advisable to mark the support points and mounting directions with the help of stakes, cords. It is almost impossible to do all the work alone, so assistants are always invited. You can hang the sashes only after the concrete has completely dried.

The poles are set up like this:

• A drill makes a hole 100 cm deep;
• They look so that the planes of the pillars turned towards each other are slightly further apart than the width of a standard gate;
• In this case, the distance should not exceed 1.2 m;
• The hole is sprinkled with sand for 0.05 m and thoroughly spilled with water so that its shrinkage is completed as soon as possible;
• Add 50 mm of crushed stone;
• The underground shares of the pillars are fired with gas burners or blowtorches;
• Guided by measurements, with the help of a plumb line they put the pillar itself, fall asleep with rubble and ram;
• From above, the stone cushion is covered with cement mortar.

The frame for the sashes is formed using a jigsaw, with which pieces of timber of the desired length are easily cut. The ends of these pieces are drilled and wooden nails are driven into the holes.

To fasten the jumpers, they take galvanized self-tapping screws, put them horizontally or diagonally. Be sure to sheathe the frame with slats, otherwise the gate will easily sag and quickly deform. Burrs and other imperfections of wood are easily removed when using planers with a well-sharpened working part.

Solid gates are formed by laying boards with nailed rails on the frame and drawing cut lines. If the top is rounded, it is most convenient to mark it with a compass. Lattice structures are more complicated, here each rail will have to be marked and cut off separately. The connection of structural parts will be simplified if you use wood screws.

When setting up a gate, always make sure that it locks securely and does not swing open by itself. Only by eliminating such a problem, it is possible to install valves and a lock.

Prefabricated stainless steel constructions are the best option for fittings., anodized metal is slightly worse. Attaching the gate to brick pillars is possible if a couple of hinges are left outside at the time of their construction. The connection of the overhead parts of the hinges with the horizontal crossbars of the gates or gates is preferably done with bolts.

Wooden gates or wickets can even be hung on metal or concrete poles. This is done with the help of suspension units, which includes a hook, nuts and a clamp (a couple of units are enough). In order to be able to put a lock, a loop is made near the valve in such a way that the shackle will also go on the handle. For painting wooden gates, it is recommended to use polyurethane-based yacht varnish as the most durable and reliable. But it should also be applied in at least two layers.

Wooden fence with gate and gate- a traditional solution that does not lose its relevance. Beautiful and functional buildings adorn many private houses and summer cottages throughout Russia.

• Products are reliable and durable. At correct installation and timely treatment with protective compounds, wooden structures serve for a long time.
• Installation is fast. Professionals will mount almost all elements of fencing in a matter of days. Exceptions - wooden sliding gates with electric drive and automatic swing models. Their installation will require serious labor costs.
• Wood is an environmentally friendly material. Fences do not emit hazardous substances and do not harm human and animal health. Modern protective compounds also make safe.
• The tree is easy to process. With the help of a small set of tools and paintwork materials, craftsmen create interesting design solutions.

Wooden gates and wickets are integral fencing elements. It is these additional structures that will be discussed in this article. We will talk about the most beautiful and popular types of gates and describe in detail the process of manufacturing and installing standard structures.

Types of wooden gates

We will look at the types of wooden gates below. There are many simple and complex design solutions, however, conditionally, the designs are divided into 4 main groups.

Slatted wooden gates

A slatted wooden gate in the fence is the easiest way to organize the entrance to the site. The design is a frame with shtaketins fixed on it.

Photo No. 1: slatted wooden gate

If you place the boards close together, you get a solid wooden gate. This design will protect your yard from prying eyes.

Photo No. 2: solid gate

Such gates can be installed independently. Manufacturing and installation will not require serious financial costs.

If desired, the design can be made very attractive. For example, carved wooden gates and gates look beautiful and original.

Photo No. 3: carved wooden gate

Wooden gates with a frame frame

Wooden gates with a frame frame are more complex and reliable structures. A wide bar is usually used to make the base.

Photo No. 4: a wooden gate with a frame frame

Frames are made not only rectangular. Often there are interesting curved designs.

Photo No. 5: a wooden gate with a curved frame

To make such a gate, you will have to cut the frame elements from an array of thick and wide boards or timber.

To fill the frames, slats, pickets, plywood, metal structures, forged elements and other materials are used. An interesting option finishes of a wooden gate - "herringbone". The crossbars are attached at an angle to the figured vertical bars.

Photo No. 6: "herringbone"

Wooden gates with awnings

If you want to make an impressive structure - install large-sized support pillars and build a canopy. The resulting structure will look spectacular and solid.

Photo No. 7: a wooden gate with a canopy

Lattice and solid canopies decorated with green plants are popular. Such structures are called pergolas. With the addition of such a canopy, even simple design turns into a beautiful wooden gate.

Photo No. 7: a wooden gate with a pergola

Wooden gates with arches

Wooden gates with arches do not go out of fashion. Support structures are made from various materials. An arched vault made of wood is the easiest to make. It is necessary to supplement the pillars with a semicircular beam.

Photo No. 8: a wooden gate with an arch

Do-it-yourself wooden gate - relevant or not?

DIY wooden gate - the best solution. However, it is relevant when you have time for manufacturing, processing, installation and design. Otherwise, contact a reliable construction company offering wooden fences with the installation of additional structures (gates, gates, arches, etc.).

Professionals will complete all stages of work faster and better. You will receive a guarantee of reliability and durability of the structure.

Production and installation of a wooden gate. Stages of work

Let us consider in detail the preparation of the opening, the manufacture of a wooden gate, installation and finishing using the example of a simple rack structure.

Important! Any gate consists of a framework and the materials filling it. Having studied the universal instructions, you will be able to independently implement a more complex project.

Necessary materials:

• timber 10 * 10 cm (for poles);
• timber 4 * 4 cm (for the frame);
• everything you need for sheathing (slats, pickets or other materials);
• sand, cement and crushed stone;
• bituminous impregnation;
• protective and paint compositions.

Of the tools you will need:

• square, pencil and tape measure;
• container for mixing concrete;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• drilling rig;
• planer and rasp (if you purchased raw materials)
• hacksaw;
• tamper;
• plumb and level;
• shovel;
• necessary fittings (canopies, hinges and latches);
• screws and galvanized screws.

Stage 1. Concreting of pillars

Drill holes for poles. The optimum depth is 1.2–1.5 m. Fill the bottom of the holes with a mixture of sand and gravel (10 cm) and carefully tamp. Treat the lower part of the pillars with a bituminous impregnation. This will protect the wooden structures from decay.

Place the treated post in the hole, adjust the plumb line and fix the beam with a mixture of sand and gravel.

Photo No. 9: installing a wooden pole

Make sure the support is vertical and fill the empty part of the hole with concrete. Install the second pole in the same way.

Stage 2. Making the frame

The Z-shaped frame is ideal for attaching pickets and will perfectly resist deformation. The resulting structure will not sag.

Image #1: typical scheme z-frame

For improvement appearance make sure that the brace, horizontal and vertical crossbars are in close contact with each other. The gate will look harmonious.

Image #2: detailed diagram z-frame gates

Important! What will be the frame - you decide. The main thing is to make sure that the structure is rigid enough. To connect the frame elements, use long screws and tighten them at small angles.

Stage 3. Sheathing

To make a solid gate, fasten the boards closely, and to get a lattice structure - at a certain distance.

Important! To avoid problems, purchase the necessary materials for sheathing only after the frame has been made. Calculate everything carefully and order boards of the correct width. This will save on the purchase of materials, reduce labor costs and create exactly what you need.

If you want to make a gate with carved pickets, process the boards in advance. Already fixed elements should not be subjected to loads.

For fixing rails, boards and other materials, use galvanized self-tapping screws. Their length should be slightly less than the total thickness of the frame and skin.

Stage 4. Installation

Before installing the fittings, treat parts of the poles and gates with protective compounds. This will prevent wear on the wood.

Screw hinged hinges to the wicket frame in the right places. Secure the structure to one of the supporting pillars. At least 5 cm of free space should be left between the ground and the lower edge of the gate.

The final stage of installation is the installation of latches, handles and hinges for locks. Screw the elements in the right places. The locks of wooden gates are usually located at a distance of 90 cm from the ground.

Everything is almost ready.

Stage 5. Finishing and design

Treat the installed gate with protective compounds in at least two layers and proceed to applying the finish coat. Various paints and enamels will do.

Advice! Purchase only high-quality and proven coatings of well-known brands. On the Russian market, the products of the Aquatex and Tikkurila companies have proven themselves well.

Once the topcoat has dried, you can proceed to decorative design wooden gate. The designs are decorated with green plants, carvings, original mailboxes and other interesting items.

As you can see, the manufacture and installation of even a simple wooden gate takes a lot of time and effort. Implementation complex projects will require even more costs. If you want to avoid them - order desired design and its installation.

Buy a wooden gate

Buy a wooden gate with installation in a reliable construction company means to get convenient service, project implementation in a short time and a guarantee for the work performed.

• A measurer will come to your site, who will perform all the necessary calculations. You will be able to conclude an agreement on the spot.
• Specialists will quickly produce a standard or non-standard gate that fits perfectly into the existing opening, does not sag under its own weight and does not warp.
• Professional installers will necessary work quickly and efficiently. You will receive a guarantee for the installed structure.

Want to take advantage of the above benefits - please contact the company "MASTEROVIT".

Wooden products in our country are especially loved by the population. With external simplicity, wood attracts with warmth, good quality and reliability. Of course, no one will argue that metal is stronger and more stable, but if metal or profile barriers are found at every step, then wooden gates are piece material, almost a design work, even if they are made of unpolished boards. How to make a wooden gate with your own hands, what design to choose, how to avoid the main problems when working with wood - all this is in our article.

Design features

With the relative density of wood, the gate frame should still be made of metal. This will keep the shape and geometry of the gate unchanged for a long time and will not allow the edges of the wood to dry out, which are usually the first to be damaged during prolonged contact with precipitation.

The sashes themselves can be made directly from wood, and the already assembled structure can be fixed with transverse lags. If the sash length is less than 150 cm, then there is no point in lags, the fixation provided by the holding frame is enough.

The length of the gate, excluding the gate, should be calculated based on the features of operation. If they are designed for small cars, 250-300 cm is enough, for large or several cars it is worth doing from 300 cm.

Gates made of wood can also be retractable. In general, this is a relatively simple system that ensures the movement of the gate leaf along the guide. Structurally, the guide is a metal rail welded to the main frame, into which roller carts are inserted. It is on them that the sash is attached and holds it rigidly. You can control the retractable mechanism manually or set up automation that is triggered from the remote control.

What wood is better to make a gate

It is easier and cheaper to make wooden gates from pine

Experts advise using the wood that grows in a particular region, including conifers. Of course, the most common tree in Russia is pine, and it is this tree that is most often chosen for finishing works, for street and load-bearing structures. There are several reasons for this, but the main two are:

• low cost of material compared to hardwood;
• pine perfectly tolerates natural precipitation, dries out a little due to the high concentration of resins and has an absolutely straight trunk, which is all the more important for large canvases, for example, gate leaves.

Larch is denser, therefore, more difficult to process and more expensive. But such material has a larger assortment of textures, which means that the protective structure will look brighter and more original.

Some choose oak for the manufacture of wooden gates with their own hands, but it is for such a structure that it is not the most profitable investment. The rich texture and quality of wood attracts, in general it is visually more advantageous, but in terms of quality and duration of operation in outdoor conditions there is no fundamental difference between larch and oak, which means why pay more?

How to treat wood before sinking into the ground

Someone will begin to doubt the expediency of such an event, arguing this with a tendency to rot. But if authentic gates and a gate are planned, that is, completely wooden, then concrete pillars will look like a foreign body. So, how to process:

1. The part that will be immersed in the ground, plus another 15-25 cm (for the gap between the ground and the frame) is burned on all sides with a burner until it is slightly charred.
2. With melted tar (1.5-2 liters, depending on the number of pillars and the depth of immersion), the charred part is tarred and, while still hot, is tightly wrapped with roofing material. You can use burlap, but it's better to take roofing felt.
3. After complete cooling, such pillars can be buried in the ground - even after 30 years they will not have the slightest trace of decay.

Production of wooden gates

In this case, we are talking about a swing structure with a separate section for the gate. In total, you will need 3 support pillars.

The height of the gate is chosen according to personal preferences. Recommended - from 180 to 220 cm. This is enough to hide what is happening in the yard from prying eyes, provide high-quality protection, but not recreate the semblance of an impregnable fortress in the yard.

For a gate height of 180 cm, the support poles are immersed in the ground to a depth of at least 100 cm (taking into account the level of soil freezing) and must be concreted. On average, it takes from 7 to 15 days to solidify the solution, depending on the ambient temperature.

So, lumber:

• fence for finishing the frame of the gate 20 x 40 mm and more;
• bar 40 x 40 cm for the frame - 4 parts 180, 180, 100, 100 cm;
• support beam 100 x 100 cm - 3 pcs. 280 cm.

For supporting pillars, you can use larch, oak or pine - the strongest. Processing by roasting, tar and roofing material is required.

• handle and lock for the gate;
• locking mechanism - lock, beam or latch;
• stops for fixing the gate;
• hinges for sashes and gates;
• cement M300;
• river sand;
• rubble.

Tools:

• jigsaw;
• to work with unpolished boards, you will need a planer and a rasp;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• drill for preparing holes;
• plumb;

Approximate list of tools

Additionally, you will need buckets and other containers where concrete for the pits will be mixed.

How to make calculations and draw up a project

Before you start making wooden swing gates with your own hands, you need to decide on their dimensions and draw up detailed drawing. It takes into account - the height, size of the wings, the method of opening, the size and location of the gate.

For example, we give several drawings of wooden gates, from which you can choose the most suitable for a particular area.

Drawing of wooden swing gate- with right hand gate

Drawing of a wooden swing gate - with a left-sided gate

Drawing of wooden swing gates - with a separate standing gate

Wooden gate drawing - retractable design

Basic indicators:

• height - 180-300 cm;
• width of each leaf - 150-220 cm;
• gate width - 100 cm;
• the number of transverse bars (lag) - 2-4, depending on the height.

Work order

1. Site clearing

Before you make a wooden gate, you should clean the area from large stones, stumps and other objects that may interfere with the work and installation of the structure.

1. Marking the location of the supports

In order for the entire structure to be rectilinear, drive pegs into the ground along the entire length of the future structure, pull a cord between them and check the horizontal with a building level

1. For supporting pillars, you dig 3 holes 100-120 cm deep. The upper level above the ground must be absolutely even, so you try to level them in depth, and if it doesn’t work out, then you will have to cut off the top.
2. At the bottom of the pit, sand mixed with rubble is poured, it will be a conditional pillow, filled with water and rammed with a stick or any other improvised object. Further, strictly vertically (check by a plumb line), a beam or a concrete pillar is inserted and poured with a pre-prepared concrete mortar from 2 parts of sand and 1 part of cement.

There is no need for reinforcement, since a meter depth is enough for a strong and reliable fastening of the entire structure of a wooden fence.

1. After 5-10 days after the concrete has completely dried, you can fasten the gate frame or hang the leaves directly on the hinges.

1. At the top, the support pillars are fastened with a horizontal cross member, which will work by analogy with a stiffener, giving stability to the entire structure.

Sash assembly features

The frame of each sash is best assembled in a horizontal position. According to the size of the frame, boards, a saw cut or a picket fence are selected, which are convenient to assemble with the help of wooden dowels.

For reference! Wooden dowel- fastener in the form of a large wooden nail. Used to connect boards and beams.

After the canvas is assembled, it is finally fixed with self-tapping screws along the edges of the frame. Additionally, a jumper is installed, which strengthens the sash as a whole. The jumper is usually located in the center and looks either like the letter "Z" or crosswise.

It is better to supplement large sashes with jibs so that over time the edges do not go beyond the frames and do not loosen the entire structure.

The final step will be the installation of the heck, the loop.

Be sure to open the entire structure with varnish to give a noble shine and increase the operational life.

Lacquer can be colorless or tinted

VIDEO: How to make a wooden gate with your own hands