The angle grinder is widely used due to its variety of functionality. This type of tool is universal, as it is capable of performing such work as cutting, grinding, cleaning. The functionality of this tool can be expanded, but this will require some adaptations. These are such devices for the grinder, which will make it possible to make milling machine, wall chaser, cutting machine and others.
To make any device for a grinder with your own hands, first you need to decide what materials for manufacturing are available. You should also decide what exactly should be made: a milling or cutting machine, a wall chaser or a dust collector for working with tools indoors.
For the manufacture of such devices, there is usually no need to buy Additional materials or details, as absolutely any simple improvised materials will do. For the manufacture of some devices, such as a dust collector casing, it is enough to use a plastic canister from under the oil or brake fluid. Using a tin can, you can design a hand mill for making wholemeal flour.
It's important to know! Getting started, decide what exactly you want to get from the grinder in the end. After all, such a design should be necessary, and of course reliable.
Rack for grinder
Such a device for a grinder, like a stand, is not difficult to make with your own hands. Its manufacture will allow you to use the tool to perform more accurate sawing work. various kinds materials. In the manufacture cutting machine you need to complete the following tasks:
- Reliability of fixing the tool.
- Reliable fixation of the tool in the upper position.
- Ensuring minimal deviations from the plane of the cut.
Threaded connections are well suited for reliable fastening of the angle grinder. Additionally, you should also worry about safety, so the tool should be equipped with a homemade casing.
For grinders for circles with a diameter of 115 mm to 150 mm, it is possible to attach them to the rack with clamps. Tools for a circle diameter over 150 mm must be securely fastened not only to the moving console, but also to the desktop or bed. To reduce vibrations and increase cutting accuracy, it is recommended to fix the bed rigidly on a workbench or other base. Below is another version of the rack with a fixed grinder.
Do-it-yourself pendulum cutting machine
For the manufacture of such a device from a grinder as a pendulum cutting machine, it will be necessary to ensure the automatic return of the moving console to the opposite position. This is achieved by installing a special spring, rubber band or counterweight, which will automatically return the used angle grinder to its original position.
The production technology of such a machine is almost identical to the previous one. The difference lies in the addition of an auto-return mechanism of the movable part, on which the grinder is fixed. Thus, the work of a person is facilitated.
Milling cutter from grinder
The grinder can also be used as a milling cutter. It is important to take into account the fact that the tool must be able to extract from homemade device. To make such a design, you will need to fix the angle grinder under the table (or workbench), and bring the tool shaft into the workbench hole using an adapter with a collet clamp for cutters. The made tool can carry out various woodworking, depending on the cutter used.
Bulgarian circular
You can make a grinder from a grinder. To do this, you need to make a reliable frame or base, to which the tool will be attached.
It's important to know! Woodworking discs must only be used in good quality. The absence of at least one tooth prohibits the use of a disc for cutting wood.
If, in the manufacture of a cutting machine, the cutting tool must be above the desktop, then when designing a milling unit and a circular, the opposite is true. The grinder should be placed under the tabletop, from which a certain part of the disk comes out through the corresponding hole. In addition to the countertop, you can screw a ruler with which more accurate sawing of wood will be carried out.
Do-it-yourself wall chaser from a grinder
The grinder can be used to cut holes in the wall. They are made in order to be able to lay wiring, pipes and other elements in them. When working with a stock grinder, it is very difficult to control the depth of immersion of the disk. To solve this problem, you can make a special frame.
It's important to know! Such a device for a grinder has an important advantage, as it allows you to adjust the depth of the strobe being performed.
Such a frame is a sole with an emphasis, through which it is possible to move the tool along the wall with uniform depth, thereby obtaining a strobe of the required depth. In the manufacture of this, pay attention to the protective cover and a special dust collector. You can use a bag as a dust collector, but it is more convenient to connect a hose from a vacuum cleaner. With it, dust will be sucked out, making such work much more pleasant and dust-free.
About homemade dust collector
A dust collector or casing for an angle grinder can be made from an old aluminum pan, pieces of thin metal or a plastic canister. From the pan, the casing will be more reliable, but at the same time, the plastic construction is much easier to manufacture.
For construction, a galvanized sheet is also suitable, which should be welded based on the dimensions of the available tool. An important condition is the reliability of fixing such a homemade product on the angle grinder. In addition, the dust collection hole can be made with the most convenient angle of inclination, unlike purchased dust collectors.
Protractor for grinder
A protractor for a grinder is also called a device for cutting along guides. For the manufacture of such a device, a metal profile or channel is most often taken. To construct a protractor, it is required to build a structure from the corners of the metal, as shown in the photo below.
Now it remains only to fix the tool to the resulting product, resulting in a full-fledged protractor, through which you can adjust the cutting depth.
In conclusion, it should be noted that the material presents only the main types of devices. In fact, the angle grinder is such a versatile unit that ideas for its modernization are constantly being updated. Choose from the proposed list of necessary devices for you and translate them into reality.
Metal is the material that the angle grinder (angle grinder) was originally designed to work with. Now with its help they cut reinforcing bars, various metal sheets, pipes different diameter, brick, concrete, stone, tile and other building materials. Due to the presence of a variety of nozzles, the grinder also allows you to polish and grind the surfaces of products. Cutting metal with a grinder is one of the main, most frequent works. To reduce the likelihood of injury, it must be performed correctly, with strict observance of the requirements of general and personal safety.
Bulgarian belongs to the category relatively hazardous power tools. You can get injured from a scattered disc or a tool that has fallen out of your hands. In both cases, the danger is associated with the high speed of rotation of the device's electric motor.
To improve the efficiency of the grinder, expand its functionality, in practice use such accessories:
- tripods;
- clamps.
Their use allows to improve the quality of sawing metal blanks, to increase the accuracy of the process. Also, working conditions are improving from a safety standpoint, and its productivity is increasing.
The use of additional devices allows you to use the tool as a machine tool designed to perform different types works.
In order to secure the cutting process as much as possible, you should work on metal with an angle grinder in compliance with a number of rules. They are conditionally divided into preparatory and main (working) activities.
Before starting cutting, it is necessary to carry out a number of manipulations.
If possible, the sawn material should be securely fixed in advance, for example, in a vice, in order to remove possible accidental movements. Do not hold workpieces in your hands or between your knees.
Proper tool operation
When you start sawing any part with an angle grinder, you should follow these rules.
- When cutting metal, hold the grinder firmly with both hands.
- Wheels can only be changed after they have completely stopped rotating and cooled down to an acceptable temperature by disconnecting the power tool from the mains.
- Do not put a working tool on the ground or a table (do not let go of it).
- Required intermittently for about 5 minutes stop for rest and keep the disk cool.
- It is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the cutting wheel, preventing it from being pinched by the edges of the workpiece being cut.
- Do not leave a plugged-in tool unattended.
- Use discs only right size specified in the operating instructions for the device you are using.
- Better work done on a flat surface to keep the body in a stable position.
- Make sure that the power cord is away from a rotating circle, sharp edges, objects heated to more than 100 degrees.
- Movements not directly related to cutting should only be carried out with the power tool turned off.
- It is necessary to be located on the side or behind the tool, doing the work with your own hands so that the parts of the body are not in the plane of the cut.
When the cutting of the metal with the grinder is completed, you should wait until the disc stops completely, disconnect the power cord of the tool from the mains. After that, it is recommended to make sure that there are no signs of fire. When cutting materials, right-handedly hold the handle of the device in the area of the on / off button right hand. Left hand at the same time, it is located on a handle screwed into the body of the power tool from above.
It is unacceptable to perform work using a grinder in a very tired state, or while under the influence of alcohol, psychotropic or narcotic drugs.
As for the question of which direction - towards itself or away from itself - the disk of the included angle grinder should rotate, there is no unequivocal answer here. IN operating instructions indicates that the first option is correct. This is due to the fact that the resulting sparks fly off in the opposite direction from the operator, without causing harm. Also, fragments of the circle will fly in that direction if it shatters into pieces.
But in the case when a jamming of the disk rotating “on itself” occurs, the tool will fly off into the working one. For this reason, many experts prefer to cut metal so that the circle rotates “away from itself”. The power tool torn from the hands will fly in the opposite direction. This reduces the likelihood of injury, and clothing, shoes and gloves will protect the user from flying sparks.
Cutting sheet metal grinder
To cut metal of different types and thicknesses, use appropriate cut-off wheels of different thicknesses and diameters. The algorithm for cutting sheets is as follows.
- For cutting with a grinder, sheet metal is pre-laid on a flat surface.
- Mark with chalk (marker) exact dimensions cut out fragments on the surface of the sheet.
- Sawing is carried out along the marked lines, without changing the angle of the initial inclination of the disk to the working surface, so that it does not jam and break the power tool.
If sawing skills sheet metal grinder are not available, it is recommended in advance practice on soft material This will give you a feel for how the instrument works.
It must be taken into account that the lower near segment of the disk cuts the metal more efficiently.
When cutting a sheet of metal, to obtain a quality result, you should take into account such recommendations.
- Cutting space required for better cooling pour water, which will also increase the life of the circle.
- It is worth starting cutting metal only when the disk is rotating: you cannot turn on the tool if the stationary circle is in contact with the surface of the workpiece.
- To cut tin (thin sheet metal) or cut out various geometric shapes, it is more convenient to use small, worked out circles("stubs").
- You should not press the grinder with significant effort: cutting should occur almost exclusively under the own weight of the angle grinder.
- If the cutting wheel stops in the slot (when the power tool is turned off), then work can only be resumed after it has been removed.
If sawing the sheet is slow, you should change the working head. Excessive load on the angle grinder when cutting metal will lead to its overheating or jamming of the rotating circle.
Cutting a round hole in metal with an angle grinder
In practice, it is often necessary to cut a circle in metal, and only an angle grinder is available from the tools. But it is quite enough for this purpose. The algorithm of actions is the following.
- A circle is drawn with a compass on the metal surface or according to a pre-made paper (cardboard) template with chalk or a marker.
- Holding the grinder at an angle to the surface of the sheet, a preliminary marking cut of the metal is performed along the marked contour, making short movements with the disk (sawed in small segments).
- Then, moving the nozzle in the same way, deepen the slot until it is completely cut out.
Need to cut along the outer contour of the circle so as not to reduce the size of the circle. If its diameter is small, then they cut, touching the metal with a disk point by point (without longitudinal movement of the nozzle). A round hole will turn out with an oblique cut, as well as with some minor flaws (they depend on the skill of the worker). After it, if necessary, processed.
The whole cutting process round hole in sheet metal using a special tool is shown in the video:
Features of working with thick metal, copper, cast iron, aluminum
When it is required to cut thick metal into separate fragments, it is recommended to additionally perform the following steps:
- constantly cool the area of contact of the metal with the disk using cold water due to strong heating of the slot;
- make all cuts only in a straight line;
- different curvilinear contours should be cut in separate straight segments of small length, while removing unnecessary parts;
- it is necessary to completely cut the workpiece in several approaches, with each subsequent deepening of the slot;
- if it is required to cut corners, I-beams, channel bars, rails, then each of their structural parts is sawn separately.
Cutting cast iron, stainless steel, as well as non-ferrous metals such as aluminum and copper, is carried out using special circles designed to work with these materials. All necessary information information about discs is contained in the labeling of these products, applied on their side. At the same time, the circles differ in the composition of the fillers:
- in some, the additive is a heavy-duty material that can cut alloy steel;
- others use soft binders.
Cutting stainless steel with conventional metal discs is prohibited, because they contain substances that lead to accelerated corrosion of the cut point. Aluminum and copper are very tough non-ferrous metals. They are cut with a grinder, pouring kerosene slot formed by the disk. In this case, fire safety rules must be observed.
Cutting pipes from different metals- This is a demanded operation during repair and construction work. It is necessary to cut off the products during the installation of sewer and heating systems, water lines. In this direction, the grinder copes well with various tasks. Disks for work are selected according to the material from which the pipe is made.
Application of angular grinder give a chance:
- cut pipes at different angles, for example 45 and 90 degrees;
- cut products of large diameter;
- evenly cut profile (rectangular or square) pipes;
- to make longitudinal cutting of tubular blanks;
- sawing cast iron pipes;
- cut thin-walled tubes.
If you need to cut a large diameter pipe, then using a grinder allows you to do this work without significant cash costs. But at the same time, labor productivity is small, and the risks are considerable. When long pipes lie on supports, they only saw off hanging parts. If you cut in the center, the cut edges will pinch the cutting wheel, which will lead to jamming of the tool and possible injury.
Specialists not only cut pipes from different materials at the right angles, but also cut out holes of the required shapes in them. Work with profile and round blanks is carried out in a similar way, with the obligatory observance of safety regulations.
Cutting pipes at different angles
Cut at 45 and 90 degrees round and profile pipes occurs when laying various communications. In any case, it is necessary to saw off the pipe evenly so that the elements that need to be connected are connected to each other as tightly as possible.
Rez at an angle of 45 degrees cylindrical pipes are carried out as follows:
- take a regular square paper sheet;
- fold it exactly diagonally;
- wrap the pipe with this template;
- a future cut line is applied with chalk or other marking device;
- remove the template;
- clamp the workpiece in a vise;
- cut off the marked pipe fragment.
When applying the template, either of the two short sides of this triangle must be parallel to the central axis of the pipe.
When to cut at an angle of 90 degrees, pipes are simply wrapped in a circle (cylindrical) or around the perimeter (profile) with a sheet of paper. After that, mark the cut line. You can also mark the profile pipe very simply using a regular square.
If it is necessary to cut at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees a significant number of profile pipes, appropriate templates are made from this material, only with a larger section. This allows you to perform the required measurements only once. At the same time, a construction square or a protractor is used for the initial marking. When the template is made, cut blanks are inserted inside it, marking the cut lines. Then sawing is done.
Templates are also made for other angles. This method improves labor efficiency.
Features of cutting cast iron and thin-walled pipes
Cast iron is brittle material. To saw through cast iron pipe grinder, act in the following sequence:
- mark the cut line;
- put a wooden block under the pipe, which will serve as a support for it;
- make a cut along the contour with a depth of several millimeters;
- insert a chisel into the recess made;
- according to the instructions, they hit hard and sharply with a hammer.
After the impact, the pipe will split along the cut line. Its edges will be fairly even. If necessary, they are further processed.
To perform longitudinal sawing of the pipe, it is also important precise marking. For its application, various devices are used, for example, a construction thread (“beat”). The entire sawing process should be done carefully, slowly, so as not to stray from the marked line.
Thin-walled pipes are one of the varieties of this kind of products. They are often made of non-ferrous metals: copper or aluminum. Cutting them is difficult. In this case, circles for the grinder should be used corresponding to the material of the workpiece.
Sawing thin-walled tubes must be done very carefully, because they can easily be deformed even by applying a slight load.
To reduce the likelihood of bending the part being cut, various loose fillers are poured inside it, for example, ordinary cleaned sand.
Cutting profiled sheets and metal tiles
Quite often, in practice, one has to face the need to cut a profile sheet or metal tile. These materials are made of steel, which is coated with zinc and polymer protective layers, color.
Regarding the possibility of using a grinder for cutting them, they speak different opinions. The installation instructions say that the profiled sheet cannot be sawn with an angle grinder. To do this, you need to use other tools. But they need to be purchased, which is not always justified by the amount of work to be done, and also requires additional financial investments. When there is no tool other than an angle grinder, before sawing with a grinder, you should know the possible Negative consequences.
- If you cut a metal tile or corrugated board with an angle grinder, then the protective coating in the saw cut area and a little near it will be destroyed, and the cut edge will begin to rust.
- The material is out of warranty.
- Flying sparks can ruin not only appearance the rest of the sheet (burn through the paint), but also damage the polymer coating.
- The cut edge may be torn.
All the considered negative consequences can be minimized if you cut the corrugated board or metal tile with a grinder, observing the following recommendations:
- perform all work immediately before installation;
- treat sections with anti-corrosion compounds;
- cover the cut edges with a primer and paint;
- use discs for metal of minimum thickness (up to 1 mm);
- to keep the edges neat, you need to cut pretty quickly;
- carefully sand the torn edges.
Before sawing, as usual, carry out sheet layout.
If you need to cut a square, then do this:
- draw it on the surface of the sheet;
- cut the material along the marked contour with a grinder;
- at the end, carefully cut out each corner.
Circles or other shapes are cut out, working in the same way.
The use of a grinder for cutting metal tiles and profiled sheets facilitates the work. It becomes more convenient to perform it, because you can adjust the sheets to size directly on the roof.
In order for the metal tile or profiled sheet to remain under warranty, you should measure the object and order the factory cutting of the sheets. You can also try to choose a material with such dimensions that cutting is not required.
Cutting metal with a grinder is cheap, practically affordable and quite effective method sawing it. In this case, appropriate discs without defects should be used for each material. Not only the quality of the result obtained, but also your own health will depend on this. Be sure, when sawing metal, it is required to follow safety rules and use personal protective equipment. It should always be remembered that when working with an angle grinder, any shortcomings and inattention can result in injury. Therefore, you need to work carefully and carefully.
It is a universal tool that can cut tiles, stone, metal. It is also suitable for surface grinding. The versatility of this tool lies in the fact that it can be converted into a stationary machine.
In some cases, a design is required that simultaneously combines the functions of a grinder and a cutting machine. The problem can be solved by purchasing a separate machine, but these will extra costs. In addition, such structures are made of duralumin, which does not fix the grinder well, as a result of which the work is of poor quality. The problem can be solved by making a special fixture. You can do it yourself.
Purpose of a device for cutting metal and its device
The attachment for the grinder is made to perform the following tasks:
- smooth cutting of knife steel;
- cutting dales on blades.
A self-made tool for cutting sheet metal includes the following components:
- air intake that removes dust;
- clamping carriage with handle;
- pendulum mechanism with disk.
The air intake removes dust. It is connected to the chip vacuum cleaner with a hose. During the operation of the device, dust enters the hose and moves along it to the chip vacuum cleaner, which prevents air pollution in the room.
The clamping carriage with a handle consists of a plate having a thickness of 3 mm, a length of 15.5 cm, a width of 11 cm. There is an M8 thread in the middle of the plate for fixing the handle. There are two notches on the plate. There are two steel sections under the plate, M6 threaded holes are made inside the squares, bearings are installed on the thread, under which screws with a diameter of 6 mm are used as axes.
Usually 6 screws are used for the clamping carriage. The carriage handle is a removable mechanism designed for greater convenience when working with an angle grinder. The carriage itself in the process, when metal is cut, slides along the guide.
Tools needed to make fixtures
For the manufacture of fixtures for grinders for cutting sheet metal, special nozzles are required. You can make them yourself. You will need the following tools:
- metal corner;
- electric drill with drills;
- duralumin steel plate;
- discs with a diameter of 125 mm .;
- self-tapping screws;
- wood bars.
General procedure for the manufacture of fixtures
To begin with, metal is taken, and a plate is cut out of it. Then an angle is made from the resulting plate. To do this, first a triangular cut is made, and then the workpiece is bent at an angle of 90 0.
6 holes with notches are made in the metal plate. The holes are necessary for screwing self-tapping screws into them, with which you can install the corners and the handle. The recesses in the holes are necessary for the heads of the screws. The optimal size of fastener elements is 3*35 mm.
Then metal corners are installed. What matters is the angle at which the first corner is bent. It should be bent at an angle of 60 0. Otherwise, the structure cannot be fixed. When the corners are installed, tools are fixed on them.
In order for the parts of the structure and the tool itself to be connected, bolts with nuts are used on one side, and a handle on the other. Bolts with nuts are needed to prevent the screw of the structure itself from unscrewing when cutting metal.
The need for a bed
Any grinder needs a bed. Beds are called devices that facilitate the work of the master and allow him to cut materials without any extra effort.
The manufacture of the bed is as follows:
- making a wooden box;
- removal of the cover of the angle grinder;
- installing a disc on the instrument;
- fixing the disk to the side wall of the device itself;
- setting a mark at the gap.
Other options for accessories for grinders
For the purpose of convenience of work for angle grinders (angular grinding machines) a vise or workbench is provided. These devices allow you to fix the tool itself motionlessly.
By installing a separate disk, the angle grinder can be converted into grinder fixed with fastening.
A convenient way is to install circular sawmill from Bulgarian. The result is a sawing machine designed for seasonal work, which is quickly dismantled if necessary.
You can make a miter box from a grinder. To do this, you need to make a rotary tabletop under the angle grinder. Then, the tabletop is fixed at the desired angle, the disc is installed and any material is cut. With this tool, you can cut materials from wood, metal, stone.
If the shaft of the grinder is brought out into the hole of the workbench and put on it a cartridge for milling heads, then you get a stationary grinder with a milling cutter.
When fixing the stop, in which there are slots, across the disk itself, it becomes possible to process metal parts, holding the product itself in the hands.
The grinder can also be used as a wall chaser. This will require a nozzle with a solid base. With such a device, you can cut the walls. In this case, the device will move along the wall more smoothly, and during operation it will not require too much physical effort. It is recommended to equip the wall chaser with a closed cover with a hole designed to connect it to the chip vacuum cleaner.
Making a protractor for a grinder
A protractor is a necessary accessory for an angle grinder. It is useful for cutting metal. This device allows you to accurately calculate the cutting angle. You can do it yourself. The protractor consists of the following parts:
- loops;
- corner;
- bolt.
The work of the protractor goes through the following stages:
- installation of the guide corner on the tile;
- tight pressing of the workpiece itself to its shelves;
- cutting metal with slight pressure on the cutting elements of the disk.
Before starting the manufacture of any fixture for a grinder, it is recommended to draw up detailed drawings of the parts and the installation process itself.
Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a cutting machine out of an angle grinder that I didn’t need. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Whoever did this knows that it is quite difficult to cut off an exactly profile pipe with a grinder. It takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut through one edge. And anyway, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, when welding, the thin metal of the wall in this place starts to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.
I had an angle grinder that I didn't need "DWT ws-180s". They gave it to me for free due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.
But it turned out that I did not need such a grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but, for some reason, the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. Therefore, it hung unclaimed in my workshop for several years - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will come in handy for concrete work, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230 ...
And so the idea came to my mind to buy a frame for it and make a cutting stationary machine. But having considered the purchased options, I found that, for the most part, they do not have sufficient rigidity, and hence accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.
What I needed:
1. Actually angle grinder.
2. Steel corner 50 to 50 and 40 to 40.
3. Cut water pipe DU32-3.5
4. Cut water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. Stud M14.
8. Profile pipes 15 to 15, 20 to 20, 25 to 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Sheet scraps.
So, for starters, I decided to assemble the grinder mount. In purchased versions, designed for various angle grinders, fastening is carried out with three long bolts with lock nuts, which affects the rigidity. In addition, having fixed the angle grinder at three points, it has to be placed vertically, which “steals” the depth of cut a little - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly extended in front. And therefore, I decided to fix it horizontally, at two points, with a snug fit of the frame to the gearbox. But I decided to neglect this, considering that if I had to replace the grinder, then I would just weld a new mount.))))
I cut out two pieces of the 50 corner:
I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:
And screwed to the gearbox, using the attachment points of the handle:
At the same time, I did not find M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to twist and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:
After that, right on the grinder, I grabbed the corners to each other by welding, then removed and boiled tightly:
Next, I started making the carriage. To do this, I needed a piece of thick-walled pipe 32-ki. Since it was necessary to cut evenly, and there was no cutting machine at hand yet, I used a wide masking tape as a marking:
After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:
nested one inside the other:
Scored on both sides of the 202nd bearing:
And pulled it off with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:
Then he cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, I burned the outer pipe with an electrode so as to weld it with the inner one:
Now we need to make racks for mounting the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I pulled them together with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:
Next, I assembled and welded the entire mounting structure of the carriage:
I made the rods on which it will be attached to the angle grinder carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. I calculated their optimal length empirically, laying out the scheme of the future machine from pipes and bars:
It remains to cut and weld everything together:
At this stage, I "tried on" the grinder:
Now it's the turn of the table. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, 60 by 60 cm in size:
I fixed the whole structure on this sheet:
From a profile pipe 15 by 15 I made two square frames, 50 by 50 cm in size. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bend points, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth one.
After that, I welded vertical racks from the same pipe in the corners, and fixed my design on the resulting parallelepiped.
At this stage, it became necessary to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I said, I eliminated all adjustments in favor of the rigidity (read: precision) of the design. My plan was to simply bend the rods, and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two cutters ... (Whoo! What an optimist I am!)))). Then crowbar! (The result is the same) ..... I realized that I would not have to strengthen the structure !! Two thick-walled profile pipes of small length, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, give incredible rigidity! ...
I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) Pipe between them, with a section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, between the rods is just 60 mm.
So, the vertical is exposed! Now cut through the table:
After that, I expanded and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installation, for example, a circle on a tree.)
By the way ... Initially, I had the idea to make a "2 in 1". That is, to provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down, in order to obtain a circular! And I even started to embody it. For example, the heads of all mounting bolts with reverse side I boiled, melted and cleaned to get a smooth circular table:
For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the mounting bolts with which the table is attached to the "parallelepiped" ... But the euphoria from the fact that "I came up with cool" passed, and I realized that I was just "led" and did not pursue practicality , but for "it turned out great".))))))
In fact, I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! Because I have a circular. And she, in any case, is better than made from a grinder! In addition, when working with a circular saw with a tree, it is good to put this machine next to a circle on wood in order to trim. Instead of flipping the table for every board...
In general, I discarded this stupid idea ....
..
Next, I proceeded to the construction of an emphasis for the workpiece. I attached a square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and fixed a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.
After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, applying a 45 degree square this time, I drilled a hole in the table.
I forgot to take a picture, but here, I think, it’s clear .... Now, in order to cut off at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and fix it in another hole.
Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut off only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut a piece of pipe 20 by 20.
I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one nut long, connecting:
Boiled her.
And he processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:
Then I made more, where it was not enough, and processed it again. (not photographed).
Then he cut out a piece of the 25th pipe (the 20th pipe fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a strip of strip across it so that it could be fixed to the table by drilling holes. This will be the guide:
At the edge of the hairpin, I made a selection and made a handwheel there.
Further, on the edge of the table I fixed a corner with a hole, and assembled a vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed all this through the thrust corner, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you will understand from the photo:
I made the handle of the handwheel from a furniture bolt, putting a metal tube on it.
At the end he made a wide emphasis. And here are the tool vices:
When the handwheel is turned, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and firmly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.
Next, I proceeded to the manufacture of a protective casing. As I said, the casing on the grinder was under the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut in thick circles (2.6, or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones dangle a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing, and fix it directly to the frame.
First I made a template out of cardboard.
