OSB (Oriented Flat Strand Board) is now widely used in construction. I first encountered him in the late nineties of the last century. A company that sells perfumes threw boxes of this material in the trash. And I, after dismantling the boxes, formed a whole bunch of plates 600x800x6mm. I liked the texture of the material so much that I immediately decided to use it for decorative purposes. as a finishing material. Well, he made a lot of things out of it. Here are speakers with OSB finish, for example.
I made a couple of bedside tables, I already mentioned them here. Door with OSB inserts. Here is the decoration of the hallway and corridor. 
We cut out panels and three types of rails for embedding panels. Reiki sawed out on a simple machine "Skillful Hands" - greetings from the USSR for 32 rubles.
I attached the panels to the walls with glue and small nails. All this is processed with sandpaper, then stained and varnished. Well, here's a brief overview. Maybe someone will like it and it will be useful. By the way, recently I finished the kitchen as well as the corridor, but not with OSB, but with laminate. And I didn’t saw the slats, but bought them ready-made in the construction arsenal. Two packs of extra laminate were formed, so I decided to use it in this way. One laminate board has a length of 1200mm. We make the height of the curb 800mm., That is, we saw off 400mm from each board. We assemble the wall, alternating boards of 800mm and 400 + 400. Thus, we obtain a waste-free, one-piece construction of the curb with inconspicuous seams. Glue to the wall with liquid nails. Close up the top plastic profile. Pour PVA glue into the gap between the wall and the laminate and carefully hammer the profile. In the photo you can see how it turned out. 
How to make a house from OSB with your own hands without losing quality and saving money? Indeed, with the same area, the cost of construction, depending on the materials used, can vary greatly. And with some construction technologies, you can’t do without renting powerful equipment. The cheapest, fastest and in a simple way counts frame housing construction from sandwich panels or OSB boards.
OSB or oriented strand boards are 90% composed of wood chips. The remaining components are binder waterproof resins. Building panels are obtained by pressing large fragments of coniferous wood, aspen and larch. The size of the chips is up to 15 cm. Inside the future product, it fits into three rows. The outer layers are placed parallel to the long side of the slab. The middle layer is perpendicular. The pressure in the press is so strong that the fibers interpenetrate. This guarantees high strength of the final product.
The resulting material is sometimes referred to as improved wood. It is lightweight and easy to handle. Unlike natural solid wood, OSB does not burn or rot; there are no knots or voids in their structure that reduce its stability. In terms of its characteristics, it surpasses sheets of chipboard, MDF or plywood. These panels hold fasteners well: bolts, nails, dowels.
The use of phenol as part of binder mixtures caused the most questions from consumers. But at present, many manufacturers have begun to switch to polymer resins that are completely safe for health. Such a product is labeled "ECO" or "Green" on the packaging.
Construction from OSB panels
In private housing construction, 4 types of OSB panels are used, differing in water resistance, strength and price.
Moisture resistance depends on the binding adhesive, and strength depends on the relative placement of chips in its structure. Additional resistance to all types of influences is given by lamination and varnishing of the surface. Such plates can be used in the construction of formwork, and repeatedly.
Type 1. OSB-1 has little resistance to stress and is hydrophobic. They are taken for finishing internal works or the manufacture of furniture;
Type 2. OSB-2 is also afraid of moisture, but is much stronger and therefore suitable for the construction of partitions, false ceilings, that is, those parts where there are no heavy loads and the possibility of getting wet;
Type 3. OSB-3 are suitable for creating outdoor facades, they are high-strength and moisture resistant;
Type 4. OSB-4 are very durable, they are used to assemble load-bearing elements of walls and roofs, they give rigidity to the structure.
A house made of OSB slabs is mostly made from products of type 3. Height - up to 3 floors inclusive.
Construction features
- The work takes 2-3 weeks without involving heavy machines.
- The building is not even built, but assembled as a constructor from ready-made parts made at the factory. They are made to order, for a specific project. This means that there will be no unforeseen expenses and urgent purchases of missing building materials, as well as hard-to-sell balances after the completion of all stages.
- OSB boards are much cheaper than brick or foam blocks.
- frame building weighs a little, almost 5 times less brick house the same cubic capacity. Therefore, the structure does not require a massive and expensive foundation.
- In the OSB-3 box, layers of thermal insulation can already be laid during production. This is how SIP panels are made. Then additional insulation is not needed. Inside, a comfortable temperature is maintained with external differences from -40 to + 40 ° C.
- The smooth surfaces of the panels do not need to be primed and leveled before finishing the decorative coating on the walls or ceiling. Unless you need to putty joints.
- Subject to the technology, OSB houses do not shrink and warp.
OSB boards are a versatile material and can be used at any stage of construction.
Foundation. Laminated or veneered sheets can be used as foundation face shields assembled on a beam frame. They are fastened with ties steel wire or thin fittings.
Floor. The plates are laid on the logs with the long side perpendicular to them. A technological (dilation) gap of 3 mm is left along the perimeter of the panels. It is needed to compensate for thermal expansion or other deformations. There is also a gap of 12 mm between the walls and the floor. The sheets themselves are fixed using the "comb-groove" profile and are strengthened for reliability mounting adhesive.
The connection of the short sides must always take place on supports. An additional layer of waterproofing is pulled under the flooring adjacent to the ground. The step between the lags is determined by the thickness of the material:
Walls. Oriented strand products can be mounted both vertically and horizontally. When assembling the walls, sheets of 12 mm thick are used. They rest on bars with a pitch of 400 and 600 mm. Between the plates, as well as at the junction with the door and window openings leave gaps of 3 mm. For insulation with outside the building can be insulated mineral wool.
Roof. The sheets form a continuous crate, on which the roofing is subsequently laid. Installation begins along the ridge, wood panels are laid similar to the floor. Each sheet is attached so that two supports are located under it. The joints of the plates should also fall on the rafters.
In order for the roof to withstand the snow load, choose the gaps between them depending on the thickness of the slab:
When working at any stage, consider the main rule of building a house from OSB: the joints of the support beam and panels must be sealed. Joints and corner parts are fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 15 cm.
Due to the properties of oriented strand sheets, the structure does not rot and is not undermined by insects. He is also not afraid of fires. According to experts, the service life of a house made of OSB-3 panels is the same as that of a brick house.
Video
We offer you to watch a video about building a house from OSB panels.
Source: KakPravilnoSdelat.ru
Despite the fact that today doors are made from a variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to a house or outbuildings, and they are also mounted on all functional rooms of the bath. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental friendliness, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured patterns.
To figure out how to make a door out of boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the elite ones, are made of boards, but the material can have different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood species.
In addition, door leafs are divided into types according to their design, and in order to determine which one is more suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are.
Types of doors by design
Wooden doors can have several types of structures - these are paneled and massive, panel (hollow and solid) and frame.
massive doors
Massive doors are made of thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, interconnected in one plane and thus forming a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or inclined lintels, which will make the structure more rigid.
For massive doors, wood of different species and qualities is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if a massive entrance door is being made, then for it you need to choose moderately dried, dense high-quality wood of expensive species, such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and a dense structure. With proper processing, such a door will serve long time without deformation and damage by wood-dangerous insects.
A massive door can have a different design - both simple, which is suitable for installation, say, in the steam room of a bath, and complex, having a relief design, suitable for entering a house or apartment.
For bath doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing to consider when making a door structure for wet rooms is its careful processing and water-repellent agents.
Massive doors may have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - this is a canvas that should always be made of natural wood.
Paneled door
Paneled wooden doors are also made from boards or timber, but more often its glued version is used, which is made from separate wooden parts - lamellas. They are glued together, creating thick boards or bars.
Glued laminated timber serves as a rigid frame for the web - vertical and transverse elements, as well as mullions, are made from it. Were fastened individual elements earlier with the help of spikes, today dowels are more often used for this. When making a door, you need to take into account the fact that the more crossbars are provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. A kind of frame is formed from the timber, in which panel panels are installed, made of thinner boards, MDF covered with natural veneer, or plastic imitating the textured pattern of wood. The panel usually has a thickness of ⅓ of the thickness of the glued beam. The panels are fixed in the frames with the help of veneered or natural glazing bead, which gives the appearance of the paneled door aesthetics, smoothing the sharp edges of the frame.
Paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design diagram, the main part of the door leaf has a small thickness, so they are most often installed in openings between rooms.
The paneled construction is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability to solid wood. Sometimes this type of door has an even higher cost than a solid canvas. Pricing is based on what kind of wood the boards and beams are made of, and what kind of veneer the material for the paneled door is covered with.
It should be noted that paneled canvases are often completely made of natural wood, only made according to a similar design scheme.
Panel doors
Panel doors can be called a budget option, as their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made of cheaper material - it is low quality wood and fiberboard, lined with veneer or laminate. Qualitatively made panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.
Panel doors are solid, hollow and small-hollow. They differ in that one inner space completely filled with unedged beams fastened together, the second ones consist only of the strapping and outer skin, and the third ones have partial filling.
A typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side bars, which are sheathed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical crossbars are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. Such a door can already be called a frame.
Small-hollow structures of door panels have different fullness of the internal space, and a variety of materials can be used for filling - it can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or foam.
Solid panel doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of unedged or edged timber, tightly fastened together.
Schemes of panel structures of different occupancy are shown in the figures:
Schemes of panel doors - 1BUT- solid construction;
B– small-void filling;
Schemes of panel doors - 2AT– filling voids with veneer;
G and D- small-hollow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;
Schemes of panel doors - 3E– filling with shavings;
F– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;
W- a panel partially filled with solid bars with a place provided for installing glass or plywood sheet.
Schemes of panel doors - 4And- filling part of the canvas with veneer;
To and L- filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;
M– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.
The frame of the panel door is veneered various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), fibreboard, plywood or veneer.
When facing panels with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled overlays.
- To obtain a high-quality panel door, the lining of the structure is carried out with linden or alder plywood, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. The material made of alder and linden does not deform, which creates a reliable basis for
On top of the glued layer, finishing plywood made of precious wood is fixed. The direction of the fibers of the decorative plywood layer should be perpendicular to the glued material.
Often, instead of plywood, natural veneer from expensive wood species is fixed on the glued layer. Its layers, and there may be 3 or 5 of them, are also laid perpendicular to each other.
- Sometimes a solid shield of glued timber is immediately shaped with veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a total facing of 2 ÷ 4 mm.
The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, therefore, if the door is made without a frame, then even, well-finished bars are used for them, which in color and texture will match the finish of the remaining planes.
The end bars are fastened to the shield with dowels and glue.
This type of door, depending on the finish, can be a bathroom or utility rooms, as well as quality. However, it should be noted that panel doors have absolutely no protection, so they are not suitable for the entrance role. Most often, they are used for this only as a temporary option.
Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a particular case, and then move on to preparatory work and manufacturing.
Door making tools
To make any model wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable large workbench table, on which all elements will be assembled into a single canvas.
From the tools you need to prepare:
- Manual milling cutter - this device will help to make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, equalize the right angles of the structure, process the glazing bead and much more. If the goal is to make a door that looks professional, then this tool is indispensable.
- Planer for leveling the end sides of the door.
- Clamps for tightening the glued web.
- Hacksaw.
- Bow and hand saw.
- Chisels of various sizes.
- Rubber and regular hammer.
- Building level.
- Ruler, tape measure, folding rule and pencil.
- Sandpaper and grinder.
- Screwdriver.
Necessary materials
For the manufacture of doors, the following materials will be required:
- Wood - its grade, quantity and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
- Joiner's glue.
- Self-tapping screws of different lengths.
In addition, for each type of door, it will be necessary to prepare specific materials, which will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door panels.
Choice of lumber
It is imperative to know how to choose the right blanks for the canvas, otherwise the finished door may be deformed, and it will not be possible to correct this defect.
The main criteria for choosing wood are as follows:
- The type of wood is chosen at will and financial possibilities.
- For doors, the so-called commercial wood is purchased, since it has a small number of knots, and if they do exist, then they are small in size and light in color.
- In order for the tree to "behave" well during processing and the period of operation of the doors, upon purchase, the material must have a residual moisture content of 12 ÷ 15%. It is recommended to choose material dried in a special drying chamber. The wood treated in this way does not deform and does not dry out, since the chamber creates an optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
- When buying boards, they must be checked for evenness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and try to connect them with each other using groove-thorn locks. The boards must not be bent or bent.
- The thickness of the boards for the door can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
- Before starting work, it is recommended to walk on all surfaces of the boards. grinder with fine sandpaper. If this device is not available, then you can make a grinding device yourself from an ordinary wooden block by attaching sandpaper to it.
Production of a massive door
Whatever model of a massive board door is chosen, a plank shield will serve as the basis for it, which must be properly assembled. Otherwise, the wood can “lead”, and it will be impossible to operate such a structure.
A solid board door is made for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to an apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product in different situations will be different.
- For a bath, the most simple design, in which the shield, assembled from boards, is fastened with transverse and diagonal elements.
In this drawing you can see different variants tie-downs:
General view of the door;
I - a door with a Z-shaped strapping;
II - X-shaped harness;
III - double Z-shaped harness;
IV - double X-shaped harness;
V - triple strapping.
For the entrance to the house or for installation in residential premises, the doors should have a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its perfect evenness and smoothness. Further, the markup of the selected relief pattern is applied to the canvas, and then the relief is cut out using a milling cutter.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
| For the manufacture of the shield, tongue-and-groove boards are taken, having a tongue-and-groove fastening, or not tongue-and-groove. The thickness of the boards must be at least 25 mm, but if a door is made to enter an apartment or house, then a board is taken even with a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for outbuildings or baths are most often made from non-groove boards using one of the straps shown above. For doors installed in residential premises, a grooved high-quality thick board is taken. |
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| Further, the prepared boards are marked and sawn into the desired segments. | |
| The next step from the board is going to the shield. In this case, it is necessary to lay them in such a way that the pattern of annual rings is directed in one direction. If tongue-and-groove boards are taken for manufacturing, then the spike is carefully cut off from the extreme element of the shield, and the end is carefully processed. When assembling the shield, the tongue-and-groove boards are assembled using both the tongue-and-groove joint and wood glue. Not grooved - just glued together. |
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| Work should be carried out on a large desktop - a workbench, where it is possible to place door leaf completely, and lay it perfectly flat. | |
| The assembled and glued shield of the canvas is pressed in several places with clamps and left to dry. | |
| The finished dried shield is processed by a milling cutter to a perfectly smooth state. In this case, the joints between the boards become almost invisible. | |
| It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped into clamps. The result is a fairly heavyweight powerful shield, having a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to a house or apartment. Especially often a door is made in this way, on which some relief pattern will later be milled or cut out. |
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| Next, you need to fasten the shield with one of the types of harnesses. The simplest of them are two or three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, parts are prepared, the length of which will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible shapes and sizes are shown in the figure on the left. This configuration must be observed for easy entry of the cross member into the groove that will be cut for it in the door leaf. |
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| Then, markings are made on the door leaf where the grooves for the crossbars will be cut. Ready-made transverse elements are applied to them and outlined with a simple pencil. In addition, you immediately need to determine and mark the depth to which the groove will be selected in the boards of the shield. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ of the thickness of the board. |
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| According to the marks made on the shield, transverse grooves of the desired shape and size are cut with a milling cutter. The cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will fit into their “nests” quite easily, but very tightly. Additionally, the groove is coated with wood glue. You can also cut the groove manually - first, cuts are made at the right angle, and then the wood is selected with a chisel. |
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| When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them from one side, and then gradually pushed inward using a rubber mallet or mallet. | |
| When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with crossbars, will look something like this. | |
| If you plan to decorate the finished shield with some kind of relief pattern, then its outline should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. After that on manual frezer cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed, and the selected pattern is cut out without haste. |
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| The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic agents. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be affected external factors, then in addition to the antiseptic, water-repellent compounds should also be used. When making a door for entering an apartment, it is recommended to cover the wood with flame retardants. |
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| If there is a desire to change the color of the canvas, make the door more "noble" or artificially "age" it, then staining technology can be used for this. Wood stain is covered with wood in one or several layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After the composition has dried, the doors can be covered with several layers of varnish. |
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| On the finished canvas and door frame, markings are made for installing the selected model of hinged hinges. Then the hinges are mounted on the marked places. |
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| The next step is to mark the location of the lock on the canvas and on the door frame, after which it is cut into the structure and the handle is installed. The last step is to hang the door into the doorway and fine-tune it if necessary. |
Panel door manufacturing
It is not difficult to make a shield door yourself. The main thing is to have all the materials at hand, a solid tool, withstand all sizes, keep the edges even and the corners straight. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for one made of solid board, it is necessary to make a panel, only it can consist of low quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a finely filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are fastened not into a continuous surface, but with gaps.
Based on the description of the design, it can be made in three ways:
- The first one is that first a frame frame (strapping) of the required size is assembled, and then its internal space is completely or partially filled, that is, a solid or finely filled shield is created inside the frame.
- The shield can also be made separately, and then it must be fixed into the frame, and then sheathed with finishing material.
- The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first made, and then it is sheathed with a frame and cladding.
Each of the methods has its pros and cons, and which one to choose - the master chooses on his own. Below, for example, the first version of the manufacture of the door will be considered.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
| So, first, a frame (strapping) of the structure is made, which will determine the size of the canvas. For it, it is necessary to prepare a beam with a section of approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future canvas (length and width). |
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| Having prepared the timber, you must select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest can be called the one that is called "half-tree". The grooves are first marked on the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very accurately, and then easily selected using the usual hand saw and chisels. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the timber. The grooves are smeared with glue and connected at the corners, and they must be controlled with a building corner, since the bars must be perfectly perpendicular. During the connection of the beam, the frame must lie on a hard, even surface, and after joining the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving. |
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| After the glue dries on the joints, they must be fastened with dowels, for which they are drilled through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm. Then, dowels treated with glue are carefully driven into them. |
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| One side of the frame should be lined with one of the selected materials immediately after fastening and drying the frame - it can be plywood, as described above, but more often, fiberboard is chosen for reasons of economy. cut by the right size a sheet of material is laid on a flat table, then a frame is laid on it and its location is marked on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and carpentry glue is thickly applied to the marked strips. Then the frame returns to its place and is firmly pressed against the facing material. In this position under pressure, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often, for the rigidity of the frame structure, one or two crossbars are mounted between its side bars. | |
| Further, the internal space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - it can be timber, MDF pieces or other woodworking waste mentioned above, or low quality wood. So, in principle, all panel structures are made, and they differ only in the type of filling. All filling elements are glued together, and also glued to the bottom sheet of the facing material and the frame bars. Before covering the entire structure with a cladding on top, it is necessary to allow the glue to dry well. |
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| This diagram shows a frame-panel structure, and inserts are clearly visible on it, which are usually installed in hollow and small-hollow versions. These elements are designed for rigid insertion of a lock or door handle. |
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| While the glue dries, you need to prepare the material for facing the outside. To do this, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two sheets of finishing material are cut out according to these dimensions. If you plan to stick two sheets, then ordinary fiberboard is first glued, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneered plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under a press that you can build yourself, for example, by covering the canvas with plastic wrap, then laying gypsum boards on top of it. |
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| If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for sheathing, you can use natural wood slats, but they will have to be screwed to the frame by drilling “under the sweat” holes to drown the self-tapping screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. When it dries, the surface should be treated with sandpaper. |
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| Then, all the corner parts and ends of the door leaf need to be processed with a milling cutter - only then the door will look high-quality and neat. A lock or latch handle is cut into the finished door leaf, and the hinges are also fixed. Finally, the door is hung in the door frame. |
It should be noted that frame doors are made in the same way - their inner space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or boards. But, before making a frame door, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.
Panel door manufacturing
Paneled doors have the most complex structure, and you can’t do without special carpentry tools and stable skills in working with them in its manufacture, since the elements require special processing.
Panel doors consist of several parts, which can be made of solid boards or glued laminated timber and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly in price. You can find many for sale. different models, but for self-manufacturing in the absence of significant experience in carpentry, it is best to choose the simplest option.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
| The first thing to do when deciding to make a paneled door is to draw up a drawing of the future design and put down the dimensions of each of the parts on it. This drawing shows a door with four panels: a) general form doors; b) spiked nodal connections of the upper, middle and lower crossbars: 1- racks; 2- upper cross member; 3-lock crossbar; 4- lower cross member; 5- upper mullion; 6 - lower mullion; 7- top panel; 8 - bottom panel; 9 - key; 10 - groove. |
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| To make a frame, you need a bar - it can be made from a massive board or from a glued bar. It will be somewhat more difficult to work with the latter, since due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has greater rigidity. The beam will be needed for vertical elements, crossbars and mullion. The beam must be processed with a milling cutter, making grooves on one of its sides. And sometimes curly cuts are immediately made, which will replace the glazing bead. If you plan to use a glazing bead, then the surfaces around the groove must be left even. |
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| Then, you need to work on the crossbars, cutting out the connecting spikes on both sides and processing all the edges with a router. At the ends of the crossbars, grooves are made for installing panels and mullions in them. The end side of the upper and lower crossbars, which will go to the end of the door, remains flat and solid. |
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| According to the size of the spikes on the crossbars, in the vertical bars, cut-grooves are made for assembling the door. Before you make them, the bars are carefully marked. |
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| For the manufacture of panels that will be installed in the grooves of the crossbars and beams, you will need plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all or several of the panel parts can be replaced with glass. If it is glass that is chosen, then you will also need glazing beads, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief frame for them. |
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| The panels can have an absolutely flat plane, and after installation in the cut out grooves, they are framed with a figuratively cut glazing bead. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then for their manufacture plywood or boards are purchased that have a thickness greater than for flat panels - it can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the panel are milled so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than the grooves cut in the transverse and vertical bars, since it should freely enter them. |
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| All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried. | |
| Before assembly, you need to once again check all the elements and, if necessary, additional markup. The assembly of all parts into a single canvas is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All spikes, before installation in the grooves, are smeared with wood glue. |
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| The canvas is assembled in the following sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical bars, according to the markings, all the details are glued - crossbars and panels. - Next, mullions are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted in the crossbars and mullions. - After that, the remaining vertical beam is glued. |
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| - The framing glazing beads are glued last. If necessary, a rubber mallet or a wooden mallet is used to install the spikes in the grooves. After that, the canvas is carefully lined from all sides, and its corners are checked with a building corner. Then, it is compressed with clamps until it dries. |
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| On the finished door leaf, markings are made for the installation of fittings - hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but they are not fixed - they are mounted only after the final surface finish. |
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| Finishing the door can be done with acrylic lacquers or water-based paints. If necessary, the surface of the door can be made darker, and thus emphasize the beauty of the textured wood pattern. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied in one or more layers. From above, the stained wood can be covered with a colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries, fittings are installed. |
The position of the loops is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the leaf in the door frame.
These parameters are, in principle, identical for mounting any type of leaf in a door jamb.
In conclusion, it must be said that it is quite difficult to make a wooden door on your own, without experience in carpentry. Moreover, it is almost impossible to do without special tools that not everyone has in their home “arsenal”. Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, then it is best to order it to a professional master or buy a ready-made version.
Video: a master class on making a paneled door from a solid wood
But if you still decide to experiment or there is a persistent desire to learn how to make ever-in-demand carpentry, then you must definitely purchase high-quality tools, both manual and electric (including, of course, a milling cutter with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to turn out well, you can try to make individual parts. In any case, if there is a desire to do such work, then you need to try your hand.
Learn how to do it yourself from a new article on our portal.
For the manufacture of doors, manufacturers are increasingly using composite materials, plastic, steel. However, the tree has not lost its popularity. Durable and warm material is ideal for front doors to the house. From the boards they independently assemble a canvas for outbuildings and baths. Making a wooden door with your own hands is easy. You just need to have good board and a set of tools.
Being engaged in the production of wooden doors, you need to know the advantages and disadvantages of the material. The final result depends on this. The main difference between wood is its hardness. Soft woods are easy to process, but less resistant to moisture. Such material is suitable for interior doors. It is difficult to process hardwoods with hand tools, but the material is more resistant to moisture. Such wood is suitable for the manufacture of entrance doors.
Speaking of wood species, it is worth considering the resin content of the material. Larch occupies the first place in this regard. The product from it will stand in dampness for a long time. The resin protects against decay.
The following requirements are imposed on the choice of the board:
- the minimum number of knots;
- moisture content of wood is not more than 15%;
- perfect evenness.
For outbuildings, used material taken from the dismantling of old buildings is suitable. beautiful doors to the house it is better to make from a new board.
hardwood
- Birch quite hard and difficult to process, but has an attractive texture.
- Beech characterized by increased strength, but deforms with a change in humidity.
- Alder soft and rots quickly in high humidity.
- Oak hard, tends to split, but resistant to moisture and beautiful.
- Nut has an interesting texture, is easy to process, is not afraid of moisture and mechanical stress.
- Maple moderately hard, well processed, moderately resistant to moisture.
For the manufacture of wooden entrance doors, oak or beech is more often used.
conifers
- Of the conifers, the most popular is considered pine. Soft wood is easy to process, but does not resist moisture well. The material is best used in the manufacture of wooden interior doors.
- Larch characterized beautiful texture and great resinity. Solid wood resists moisture perfectly, which makes it possible to use the board for assembling entrance doors.
- Spruce knotty, lighter and softer than pine, slightly inferior in strength.
Instruments
In production, special machines are used for the manufacture of wooden doors.
- Reismus required for board processing. The most productive are double-sided planers, which clean the workpiece in one pass.
- Without milling machine tool production of wooden doors is impossible. With its help, lock joints are made on the boards, chamfers are selected, curly blanks are processed.
- When gluing on a wooden frame, overlays are used press.
- Circular saw spread the board to the desired size.
To do it yourself at home wooden interior doors, no one will buy expensive machines. Electric board is suitable for spreading the board disk saw.
You can choose grooves, and you can process the surface of the workpieces manual router.
Additionally, you should have on hand:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- wood saw;
- grinder;
- chisels, mallet, corner, level, tape measure.
For painting the door leaf, it is advisable to use a compressor with a pneumatic gun.
Necessary materials
To make a wooden door with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- dry grooved board;
- self-tapping screws;
At the time of purchase, the thickness of the boards is selected taking into account the installation location of the door leaf. For an interior sash, wood 25 mm thick is sufficient. For front door use a board 50 mm thick. After purchasing, it is advisable to dry the wooden blanks by laying them on a flat surface using linings.
Additionally, a mortise lock, hinges, handles, and a peephole are bought for the entrance wooden door. For an interior sash, it is enough to take hinges and a handle with a latch.
How to make a wooden door
When assembling a simple wooden door with your own hands, a drawing, a complex diagram is not needed. It is enough to measure the height and width of the door leaf. The dimensions of the sash are calculated so that it fits into the grooves door frame, and there was a gap of about 5 mm around the perimeter. In the manufacture of a wooden door, the main elements are prepared: a tongue-and-groove board with a tongue-and-groove lock for the canvas and a cross member made of edged blanks.
Composed step-by-step instruction do-it-yourself wooden door assembly from the following steps:
- boards are sawn according to the height of the future canvas and laid out on a flat surface in compliance with one direction of the pattern of annual rings;
- spikes with grooves are lubricated with carpentry glue, connect all the boards, tightly squeezing the canvas with a clamp;
- after the glue has dried on the extreme bar, a spike is cut off from the end of the product, and the entire surface of the shield is subjected to milling and grinding.
- To prevent the sash from falling apart, the structure is fastened with crossbars. edged board they give the shape of a trapezoid, make grooves on the canvas to a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the wooden blank and lubricate them with carpentry glue. The crossbars are inserted into the recesses, tapping with a mallet. For reliability, you can fix it with self-tapping screws.
- In order for the sash to last longer, it is treated with antiseptic impregnations. If it is necessary to install a double-glazed window on a wooden door, a window is cut out in the shield with a jigsaw. A plank is nailed in the center of the end of the entire perimeter of the opening - an emphasis for two glasses. After installing the double-glazed window, the edges are framed with a glazing bead or a decorative strip.
If you need a thick canvas, the sash is made of two layers. In the two-layer manufacturing technology of a wooden door, the perpendicularity of the boards of both shields is observed. Glue them together with wood glue.
Keyway
You can assemble warm wooden doors for a private house without much effort from boards with dowels. Manufacturing technology consists of the following steps:
Usually for the entrance to the house massive doors are made of oak, beech or cedar. The canvas can be decorated antique or give it modern style. A simple wooden door, assembled with your own hands from a pine board, is suitable for a bathhouse or a barn.
Shield
Panel doors are a budget option. The frame is a rectangular frame made of board. Fiberboard sheets are glued on both sides. AT industrial environment use additional lining of veneer or laminate. Another feature of the door design is filling the voids of the frame with insulation from woodworking waste: sawdust, shavings, small chips, corrugated cardboard.
Consider how to make a do-it-yourself wooden panel door from boards step by step:
- according to the size of the sash, a sheet of fiberboard is cut out, as well as blanks from boards for the frame;
- all elements are laid out on a flat surface, interconnected with wood glue and self-tapping screws;
- bottom shield made of fiberboard with wooden frame formed voids that are covered with sawdust;
- the upper part of the frame is lubricated with glue, a second shield made of fiberboard is laid and the entire sash is pressed with a press.
On the finished door leaf, as a finish, veneer can be glued on top, and sharp corners can be rounded off with a milling cutter.
Paneled
Design panel doors It is a frame made of timber, inside which a set of horizontal crossbars, vertical lintels, and mullions are inserted. As a result, cells are formed for inserting a panel. The technology allows you to make a wooden door with glass, plastic, and other materials. The strength of the canvas depends on the number of crossbars.
The panel is cut out in such a size that it enters the cell with a gap of 2 mm. Glass inserts or fiberboard are immediately fixed with glazing beads. The edges of a thick plywood or chipboard panel are milled until they become thinner by 2 mm of the grooves cut on the frame. The framing beads are attached last.
Decor
Decorating a homemade wooden door begins with grinding. Further processing goes with an antiseptic that protects the wood from dampness and pests. After drying, the surface of the door is covered with two layers of primer or putty. The final layer is paint or varnish.
If there is a professional tool, as well as certain skills, the canvas is decorated with carvings, stencils are cut out and even mosaics are made.
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