Insulation of a house from a bar lined with bricks. I want to insulate a log house lined with bricks

One of the most common myths in construction is related to the natural warmth of wooden houses. In fact, the energy-saving properties of wood, as a rule, are not enough, therefore, houses made of timber are insulated, using one of better ways insulation protection - brick lining.

Why does a wooden house need brick walls?

The main advertising ploy of companies building houses from timber is the postulate about "incredibly warm houses where the ancestors lived for centuries. At the same time, no one mentions that it will be warm enough in such a house only with the constant operation of a Russian stove or other heating system of commensurate power. The heat engineering of a wooden structure of this type does not stand up to criticism either according to the SanPiN or SNIP standards, while most of the shortcomings are quite obvious. For example, in a house made of timber, even factory-made, it is impossible to completely seal the interventional seals, the only exception is glued lumber. And if the house is completely free from blowing, then even the maximum possible thickness of the walls made of timber will not be enough to withstand the coldest five-day period in most regions beyond the latitude of 60 ° and close to it.

But the need for insulation is not the only drawback of log houses. Wood needs constant care, without which the surface of the walls will eventually become extremely unpresentable. Due to the mandatory use of impregnations and paint coatings, another myth about wooden houses disappears - their ability to self-regulate the humidity of the internal atmosphere. And even in the case of systematic maintenance of the building, it will greatly surrender in aesthetics due to sunlight, wind and rainwater, deep restoration of wood will have to be carried out every 7-10 years.

Brick lining is just one of the finishing methods that ensures the safety of the thermal protection belt. Often, the choice in favor of this technology is made only because the type of brick building impresses the owner more than others, or such a cladding is required for reasons fire safety. Otherwise, the brick lining does not bring significant benefits: it is more expensive, more difficult than many other coatings to install, and requires a capital preparatory base. But the option is interesting at least for its eccentricity: from the outside it looks like a stone castle, inside - natural, lively, and most importantly - warm wooden house.

building design requirements

Brick lining is one of the heaviest types of facade finishing. At the same time, even part of its mass cannot be transferred to a wooden house, but not because of exceeding the permissible loads on the frame, but because outer side wooden wall must remain ventilated. Thus, a sufficiently wide plinth protrusion is required from the building to accommodate the cladding and, if necessary, thermal insulation, as well as the possibility of arranging flexible connections.

As for the protrusion of the foundation, it must necessarily have a width of at least 110 mm, provided that facing bricks with a minimum thickness of 65 mm are used and a minimum allowable non-ventilated gap of 40 mm is ensured. The reinforcing frame should be positioned so that the outer rods are located with protective layer 50-60 mm. An L-shaped foundation is allowed with a vertical dimension of the canopy of at least 250 mm. If the requirements for the foundation were not provided for during the construction of the house, the outer wall of the base is opened with a trench around the perimeter, a pillow is installed, formwork is installed and reinforcement is at least 150 mm wide and 500 mm deep. The reinforcement is reinforced with a mesh of 10 mm ribbed rods with a cell of 200x200 mm. If there is no possibility of rigid binding to the foundation of the house, it is possible to cast an independent tape with a width of 300 mm and a depth of at least 600 mm, while the reinforcement is carried out with a rectangular frame of 12 mm class II reinforcement.

The requirement for making flexible connections lies in the preparation of the wall surface. You should get rid of the old exterior wall decoration. In a situation where the house has already been used for more than 10 years outdoors, it is recommended to remove the paintwork, re-impregnate with a bioprotective agent and apply a coating waterproofing. Additionally, we note the importance of the waterproofing device between the foundation and the cladding. For these purposes, it is convenient to use aerated concrete blocks, thereby imitating the high plinth of stone buildings and providing additional protection salary crown.

Material selection

The brick lining of the house is notable, first of all, for the fact that it is a box in which another box is placed - the supporting frame of the building. For this reason, even being on different fairly stable foundations, the log house and the finish will perfectly take root to each other. In addition, the amount of indentation of the brick lining is practically unlimited, respectively, the quality of insulation can be ensured by one of the highest.

Of course, getting the full benefit from the brick lining of the house is possible only if it is arranged correctly, which largely depends on the materials chosen:

The foundation is the basis for cladding, it is on it that the rigidity and strength of the entire facade decoration depend. Concrete with reduced water absorption should be used, that is, grade W6 or higher.
When installing waterproofing with raising the base, it is aerated concrete that should be used, unlike cheaper foam concrete, it has extremely low water absorption and a tendency to capillary suction. If the insulation is arranged with roll materials, it is better to choose a film or membrane.
The choice of brick is completely free, it is only important that the predicted mass of the cladding corresponds to the bearing capacity of the foundation. Usually 88 mm facing brick is used, porous ceramics and decorative blocks can also be used. In any case, the material should be hollow to reduce weight and improve heat-saving properties.
For facing masonry, an ordinary solution on a lime-cement binder of a strength of 200 or higher will do. It is prepared from a mixture of Portland cement M400 with fluff in equal proportions, using three times as much sifted sand as a filler. It will not be superfluous to use frost-resistant additives and superplasticizers.
The masonry must be reinforced with a belt method, best material for this - hot-rolled steel wire 4-5 mm. You will also need plaster mesh for flexible binding of masonry to the frame. If the cladding is made of PCB, each seam is lined with fiberglass facade mesh to avoid spillage of the mortar in the cavity.

The nuances of insulation and protective insulation

The list of materials also had to include glassine, which is wrapped around the log house before the masonry is erected. However, this issue is worth a separate consideration, because it is more related to the field of heat engineering.

Such a construction as a log house in a brick shell has its own specifics of heat transfer and moisture accumulation. It is necessary by all means to protect the tree from the accumulation of water, otherwise its durability is reduced significantly. The main source of moisture is the air coming from the building through the gaps between the crowns. Glassine retains this air, but at the same time, condensate does not fall out, because all surfaces are at a sufficient high temperature. At the same time, the ability of wood to independently regulate humidity is maintained, the likelihood of moist warm air entering the insulation or air is excluded, and the ventilation of the walls is guaranteed to be eliminated. The most important condition is to fasten with glue and only to the central part of the beam, leaving small folds between the crowns so that the vapor barrier can “play” as the tree shrinks.

You can insulate a house from a bar with any material, with an eye to some shortcomings. So, when using mineral wool, you need to protect the insulation from rodents, carefully sealing all the joints, and also beat the material with a windproof membrane from the outside. You can also use extruded polystyrene boards, foam plastic or any other loose filler that is not subject to shrinkage. It is extremely important to pre-calculate the wall pie in the thermal conductivity and moisture accumulation calculator in order to exclude dew point shifts to the area where moist warm air can be.

order calculation

The brick lining is good because by only slightly adjusting the width of the gap, you can greatly reduce the number of additional ordinary elements or almost completely avoid their manufacture. To do this, in advance, knowing the format of the brick used, determine the order of laying. This is done for each wall separately using the simplest technique. For example, we can take the most complex element of the facade - the section of the wall between the outer and inner corners. Let us assume that the length of the log house wall in this place is 570 cm, and the height to the soffit is 420 cm. At the same time, the foundation under the log house has a protrusion of at least 110 mm.

If clinker bricks of the format 250x90x65 mm are chosen for facing, then for laying the starting row without cutting stones, 22 whole elements will be needed with a joint thickness of 8 mm. The most attentive will notice that as a result, the length of the row is 32 mm less than necessary, which can be compensated by increasing the gap by 16 mm on one side and reducing it by the same value on the other. In the second row, dressing is performed, the pokes of adjacent walls are taken from the total length of the row of 196 mm, taking into account the seams. It will not be possible to lay out this row with whole stones, and the addition will turn out to be too small. In this case, you can make the thickness of the vertical seams in even rows of 11 mm, leaving almost exactly in right size. If the length of the row turns out to be slightly longer than necessary, the extension can not be cut, just lay a brick with a protrusion of the spoon inside the gap.

Also, knowing that the height of the row is 75 mm, taking into account the seam, you can determine the number of rows of cladding, which in our case will be exactly 56 rows. If this value were not accurate, you can compensate for the discrepancy using aerated concrete blocks. They are easy to cut into custom sizes, slightly raise the base and bring the final row exactly close to the soffit. Having calculated in this way all sections of the wall, you can get the number of bricks in pieces, and by adding 4-5% for marriage and battle, you can determine the final volume of the order.

Execution of facade cladding

It is advisable to lay out the starting row of solid stones on a waterproofing substrate of 3-4 layers of roofing material or 1-2 layers of blind membrane insulation. The first row sets the dimensions and configuration of the entire cladding, so it should be leveled with great care and given enough time to set.

The laying of all other rows should start from the corners and align with the mooring cord. If, according to the layout scheme, there are extensions, they are placed in the central part of the row in a random place in the areas between two outer corners or are shifted close to the inner one.

When laying the cladding, you need to consider several points. The first and most important is to leave gaps for limited air circulation in the row at the height of which the formation of a snow cap is guaranteed. The holes must be protected from rodents and debris, the neatest way to do this is to cut the grooves in the brick with a grinder and insert small fragments of a perforated metal mesh into them.

We must not forget about the reinforcement, which is performed in every 4 or 5 row. For this, 2 pieces of wire are used, the length of which is 20-25 cm less than the wall section. The wire is sunk into the seam, while the corners are tied with bent anchors. The lining is also attached to the beam with flexible ties, which are well suited for pieces of fine plaster steel mesh 15-20 cm wide.

They need to be bent at a right angle, with one side nailed to the central part of the timber, and the other walled into the seam solution. From this it follows that the installation of insulation and the construction of brickwork are carried out in parallel, which means that work should be scheduled for a sufficiently long warm and dry period.

Facing a wooden building with brick is a common occurrence. Brickwork allows you to update and give the old house a completely respectable look. However, often at the stage of this event, many do not immediately think about warming, but during the winter it turns out that the brick wall does not protect the house from the cold. Warming wooden house lined with bricks, not an easy task. Experts recommend making thermal insulation of the building even at the stage of facing work, but, unfortunately, not everyone listens to their opinion. How to insulate a log house with a brick facade? Let's look into this issue.

There are three ways to solve the problem:

Produce insulation outside the brickwork.
Insulate the space between the log and brick wall.
Make thermal insulation inside the house.

The first method is the most acceptable in terms of heat preservation and the safety of a wooden structure. But at the same time, choosing this option, you will have to sacrifice the aesthetic characteristics of the house, since all the beauty of the brick cladding will be hidden. In addition, it will require a lot of investment in new finishes.

The remaining two options have significant disadvantages, which we will dwell on in more detail.

Is it possible to lay thermal insulation between the walls?

Many experts do not recommend filling the space between the walls with any heat-insulating material. And that's why. When facing a residential building or a bathhouse with bricks, a technological gap of about 25 cm must be left. It is necessary for the ventilation of a wooden building. If brickwork make it close to the wall, then after a certain period of time the tree will begin to rot, mold, fungus will appear on it, and everything will end with rotting of the wood.

This can also happen if the space is filled with insulation. Some, at their own peril and risk, resort to a similar method of thermal insulation, blowing penoizol into the holes made in the brickwork. The material completely fills the empty cavities, depriving wooden wall any ventilation. We do not recommend insulating the house in this way, as this can lead to unpleasant, but very predictable consequences.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Internal thermal insulation is also not the best option for both log and log house. Such insulation has several disadvantages:

Moisture and steam formed inside the house do not have an outlet to the outside, and the effect of a thermos is created in the room.
The dew point shifts towards the room, which leads to the formation of condensation on the interior walls.
The house will warm up faster, but also cool down quickly.
The usable area of the rooms is reduced.

As you can see, it is highly undesirable to insulate a house made of wood with inside if it is lined with bricks. Moisture will stagnate in the wood, which will lead to the appearance of mold and fungus, and as a result wooden structures may rot.

Regardless of which material and method of insulation is chosen, it is necessary to make holes in the cladding through which air will pass and ventilate the walls. In addition, a good ventilation system should be organized in the house.

Materials for external thermal insulation

In this case, the insulation of the house can be performed with any materials suitable for.

You can insulate brick walls with:

polystyrene;
mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam,
thermal panels.

Characteristics of heaters

Today it is very common. This inexpensive material, which perfectly retains heat, is easy to fit, keeps its shape well.
One of the best insulation materials is extruded polystyrene foam. It has minimal water absorption and low thermal conductivity. In addition, XPS is very durable, due to which it is often used for thermal insulation of blind areas and foundations.
When insulating the facade with mineral wool, it should be taken into account that only stone and basalt wool with a density of at least 80 kg / m3 is suitable for external thermal insulation. Lighter weight material may lose shape.
Polyurethane foam is excellent for thermal insulation of a brick wall. It has a low density, high thermal insulation characteristics and good adhesion. However, the material is not resistant to UV radiation, therefore, when insulating the facade, immediately after installation, it must be covered with a finish.
Thermal panels simultaneously perform the function of both a heat insulator and a finish. They consist of several layers of polyurethane foam and XPS, and their front part is made of clinker tiles, ceramics, porcelain stoneware or concrete. They have many advantages, but they are also quite expensive.

External insulation methods

Insulation with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam can be done in two ways: laying the tile insulator in the frame cells or gluing the plates directly to the wall. A detailed algorithm for insulating an EPPS house is described in the article. Thermal insulation with foam plastic is carried out in a similar way.
is carried out by spraying with the use of professional equipment.
Installation of thermal panels is quite simple. Each element is provided with a tongue-and-groove fastening. First, a starting profile is installed, on which the elements are laid, joining them to each other. After the final installation, the space between the wall and the panels is blown with foam.
When laying mineral wool, the installation of the crate is mandatory. The material strongly absorbs and accumulates moisture in itself, which is the reason for the decrease in its heat-insulating characteristics.
Frame method laying allows you to make a ventilation hole between the wall and the insulation, as well as to equip both sides of the insulation with a hydro- and vapor barrier layer. A detailed installation guide for mineral wool can be found in the article.

Internal insulation with warm plaster

For a wooden house, sawdust plaster is best, which consists of cement, clay, sawdust and paper. Air passes through it, which allows the tree to breathe.

The work is carried out in the following sequence.

A wooden house insulated and lined with bricks is an excellent solution for middle lane Russia: such a building can stand for many decades, it will be reliably protected from the cold. Brick cladding perfectly tolerates any natural negative factors, the brick itself can serve for a very long time. In addition, it looks beautiful, which will give the building a great look.

The choice of material for cladding

As a facing material for a wooden house, several types of bricks can be used, differing in structure and characteristics:

Silicate brick is made from a mixture of lime and sand, which has undergone special processing. This material is highly resistant to moisture, in addition, it can be offered in the widest variety of colors. This is a cost-effective option, but in terms of strength it is still somewhat inferior to other types of bricks.
Ceramic. This is a traditional material for the manufacture of which burnt clay is used. It has high strength, and it is very important to choose the right material. It should not be unburned or burnt, the brick is selected according to color shades and other parameters.
Clinker is the most expensive and most durable variety: such a brick perfectly tolerates even repeated sharp temperature fluctuations, it will be very durable and frost-resistant. In its manufacture, high-temperature firing is used, which provides it with an advantage over other types.

In addition to the brick itself and the masonry mortar, it is also necessary to choose a heater. For the insulation of wooden buildings, it is recommended to choose materials of natural origin that have maximum environmental friendliness. The best solution will become mineral wool: it allows air to pass through, so the building will "breathe", in addition, this material increases fire safety.

For external insulation of the house, you can also use foam, polyurethane foam and other polymeric materials. At the same time, it is not recommended to use the previously common foam plastic: it has extremely low air permeability, so a wooden house will lose one of its main advantages.

External insulation and brick cladding

There are several ways to insulate a wooden house lined with bricks. If we are talking about a newly built building made of logs or timber, it is better to choose external insulation: this will protect the walls from decay, in addition, the insulation will not occupy usable space.

To install it, a vertical frame made of timber is stuffed onto the walls, after which insulation boards are inserted into it. Sometimes insulation is done in two layers so that there are no gaps left that can become “cold bridges” for the house.

Between the insulation and the brickwork there should be a ventilation gap a few centimeters wide. Before installing the insulation, you need to resolve the issue of expanding and strengthening the foundation: brickwork is heavy, so you need to prepare a solid foundation for it.

Usually, a monolithic reinforced concrete tape is used for this, which is laid in a trench around the entire perimeter of the house. It is necessary to wait for the foundation to dry completely, in addition, it must be covered with a waterproofing material, for example, roofing material.

The brick laying procedure is based on several rules:

The brick wall should be as flat as possible. Each row of bricks is checked horizontally by a level, the vertical position of the wall is checked by a plumb line. The thickness of the solution between the rows should not exceed 14 mm.
Wooden and brick walls are interconnected by galvanized metal pins, which are laid in the masonry. They need to be placed every 4-5 rows to ensure the strength of the wall and the solidity of the entire building.
The masonry must have ventilation holes(air), which will not allow dampness of the insulation. To prevent rodents from penetrating through these holes, and large debris does not get in, they are closed with special gratings.

Internal insulation of the house with brick cladding

How to equip the insulation of a wooden house lined with bricks? In old buildings, insulation work could not be carried out, while brick cladding can be done in good faith, and it is a pity to destroy it.

In this case, it is necessary to solve the issue of internal insulation. For a wooden house, this option is undesirable due to the formation of condensate between the wall and the insulation, but there is a solution here too.

You can insulate a house made of wood, lined with bricks, using materials such as warm plaster, ecowool, you can also use penoplex and other types of insulation. In any case, the masonry must have ventilation holes that will protect the timber from decay. It is necessary to take care of the insulation of the foundation and the attic: most of the heat escapes through them, and a simple layer of expanded clay will significantly increase energy efficiency.

Internal insulation for a wooden house it is highly not recommended, this option is used only in extreme cases. Sometimes it's easier to take apart the brick cladding and build a new wall than to shrink the room from the inside and risk wood rotting.

Compliance with building technologies will make the building as protected from the cold as possible, the house will last a long time, and the walls will not be afraid of any weather disasters. Today, this option for exterior decoration is in great demand, it is chosen for log, timber, and frame buildings.

In this material, we will tell you how to brick a wooden house, in what cases it is worth lining it, how to insulate a house already bricked, the pros and cons of finishing such a structure, and provide step-by-step instructions for finishing.

For the construction of wooden houses http://arhdom.com it is best to take natural and durable materials. A favorable microclimate for indoor spaces is perfectly created by wood, but on the other hand, a brick house is considered more reliable. Therefore, many decide to simply use both materials.

Is it worth bricking a wooden house

This option can not be found often, primarily due to the high cost of construction, but there are times when brick cladding is the most optimal solution. And so, in what cases it is worth lining a wooden house with bricks:

If a low-quality material was used to build a house, for example, a bar of natural moisture. Such material needs protection, as it quickly deteriorates and loses its attractive appearance;
If additional insulation is needed. In this case, the house is faced with brick, and insulation is laid between the walls;
Brick cladding is often used for frame houses.

How to insulate a wooden house lined with bricks

There are two ways to insulate a wooden house lined with bricks. The first is from the inside, using mineral wool, polystyrene or drywall. But there are a lot of minuses here: eaten inner space at home, there is a big risk that the tree will become damp, foam plastic is not the most environmentally friendly material for internal insulation. When laying basalt insulation from the inside, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier on both sides. After facing with clapboard or imitation of timber.

The second option is insulation from the outside. It is best to use mineral wool or basalt slabs, but due to their ability to absorb moisture, both sides of the insulation will need to be laid vapor barrier film. As an option, you can use extruded polystyrene, it does not need a vapor barrier and can last more than 50 years. After the insulation is lined with decorative bricks, siding or any other material.

But the most perfect option, this is the laying of insulation, even before the wooden house is lined with bricks.

Finishing a wooden house with bricks: the pros and cons

Before finishing a wooden house with bricks, you need to know the pros and cons. And so, from good points can be distinguished:

Additional insulation;
Improving the appearance, provided that the appearance of the tree is damaged;
Brick is best option when it is necessary to perform the external finishing of a panel house or built from raw timber;
Reduces the risk of fire;
Reliable protection for a tree from weather factors.

Now let's talk about the cons:

Under a layer of brick, the tree will not “breathe” normally, which means it will be necessary to provide ventilation or lay a vapor barrier layer;
Additional foundation costs. Brick is much heavier than wood and needs a reliable and strong foundation.

Finishing a wooden house with bricks. Step-by-step instruction

When cladding a facade, it is usually used decorative brick, it has a more attractive appearance, but at the same time, silicate or clinker can be used.

Brief step-by-step instruction for finishing a wooden house with bricks:

Before overlaying a wooden house with a facing brick, the wall surface is cleaned of excess nails and other things, treated with an antiseptic against fungus and insects;
A vapor barrier film is laid;
The crate is being carried out, the distance between the slats is slightly less than the width of the insulation (mineral wool);
The insulation is laid and fixed with dish-shaped dowels;
A vapor barrier film is again laid on the insulation;
A gap of 2-4 cm is left between the insulation and the facing brick for ventilation;
Plumb lines are thrown from the corners of the house, so it will be possible to control the correct laying of bricks. The horizontal laying position is controlled by a level;
Between wooden wall and brickwork must be bonded. To do this, you can use the armature or metal mesh. Reinforcement (mesh) is attached to wooden surface and should not protrude beyond the brickwork, the second end of the reinforcement is recessed into the brickwork;
Laying is done in half a brick;
In the lower and upper rows of laying, we leave gaps between the bricks for ventilation, 1-.05 cm wide. The distance between the vents should be no more than 4 m. Often such vents are made of hollow brick, laying on the edge. Openings are closed with a mesh from rodents.

According to ArhDom.com

September 4, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outdoor decoration(plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

If you are looking for ways to insulate brick house outside, then you are on the right track, as this method is much better than internal insulation. However, if suddenly you want to do it from both sides, then this option will be even better, more precisely, the best. I want to tell you about the difference in insulation, as well as its execution technique, and also show a video in this article.

There are three main ways to insulate walls for brick walls: insulation can be mounted outside, inside and in the middle (manhole masonry).

3 types of insulation and the difference between them

Situation without insulation

if, for example, you have red brick walls, and you do without insulation, then this means that you lose 45% of the heat in the room;
in addition, a dew point forms in the wall (SP 50 13330.2012 p. B.24 - a temperature drop at which condensation begins to form), therefore, this is constant moisture in the wall;
the presence of moisture in the wall, together with the temperature difference in the street, will destroy the walls, and given that the highest frost resistance of a brick does not exceed 50 cycles (F50), then this is a serious danger.

Internal insulation

What portends the insulation of internal walls:

but when insulating the wall from the inside with your own hands, the heat loss of the room will be 30% or more, that is, a little better than without insulation at all;
but again, there is such a thing as condensate and this harmful dew point will turn out between the wall and the insulation, which can be called a huge minus for the whole house;
fungus or mold will inevitably appear in this place, which will be facilitated by dampness. And that's not all the disadvantages - the wall itself will constantly freeze through, which will increase the number of cycles. Consequently, it will lead to the most rapid destruction of the brick;
moreover, this rule will work if you isolate both the corner room and the intermediate one, that is, if your apartment is located, for example, in the middle entrance, then this will not save the situation.

External insulation

External wall insulation will be the most optimal:

but the better the outer insulation, you probably already guessed - first of all, there minimal heat loss, which are within 10-15% and this is the main factor;
our ill-fated dew point moves behind the wall and is somewhere in the thickness of the insulation (this factor is very important when choosing a material when the facade is insulated from the outside, but more on that below);
due to the shift of the dew point to the isolation zone, you constantly have a dry wall, therefore, the operational life of the masonry is significantly increased;
and yet, it is excellent sound insulation - soft material absorbs a significant range of noise coming from the street, which makes your home more comfortable and all these factors clearly indicate the best way to carry out such work outside.

Intermediate thermal insulation

How good is this method:

the intermediate method simultaneously carries two sides of the coin, since the external and internal isolation methods are simultaneously assembled here;
that is, if the external method works inside the room, then outside, on the contrary, the internal one works;
according to this principle, the boxes of all Khrushchev houses were erected (well masonry with filler (most often, this is slag) inside;
thus, the dew point is in the gap between the masonry and in no way harms either the inner or outer wall. However, as you understand, this method can only be implemented during the construction of the structure.

Materials used for insulation

In the photo - mineral wool

The production of mineral wool is carried out in accordance with GOST 31913-2011 and EN ISO 9229:2007 and, in fact, this is the insulation of a brick house from the outside modern methods i.e. accessible and effective. But here you should be selective, as there are three types of minerals that are used to make such products. It is divided into:

glass;
slag;
stone (basalt).

So, all this is done from melts of materials of the same name, which behave differently under certain conditions.

So, slag wool, made from blast-furnace slag melts, contains iron particles that are susceptible to corrosion from moisture (dew point) and the material sags, losing its insulating properties. Therefore, the instruction does not recommend the use of slag wool in such cases..

Those who have worked with glass wool know how harmful it is to health (dust particles of glass) and how it irritates the skin - you only need to work in a respirator and in clothing that covers all parts of the body as much as possible.

It is quite natural that the best option there will be basalt wool, besides, gloves alone are enough to work with it, although most installers generally work with their bare hands.

As you probably noticed, in the photo above there is foil and plain cotton. The foil layer simultaneously serves as a waterproofing and a heat reflector (reflects infrared radiation), which significantly increases the insulation power, however, along with this, its cost also increases.

Styrofoam is a common insulation, and it has a slightly greater power than mineral wool. In addition, it is much more convenient to mount it on walls and.

This material is produced in the form of square 1000x1000 mm panels with a thickness of 20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. But for domestic purposes, two types of density are used - 15kg / m3 and 25kg / m3, although the 15th sheets crumble with granules when cut, which cannot be said about the 25th panels.

Very similar to appearance and by structure to extruded polystyrene foam. But this material has a density of 35 kg / cm3 and 45 kg / cm3 (the latter is even used for warming runways).

Extruded polystyrene foam panels for such purposes are usually chosen 1200 × 600 mm, and its thickness is from 10 mm to 100 mm with all multiples of 10. Of course, the thermal insulation properties are better here, but the cost is naturally much higher.

There is also such insulation as penoizol or urea-formaldehyde foam. This is, in fact, the same foam, only in liquid form, which is applied to the wall with a pump by pouring.

Its density ranges from 6kg/m3 to 60kg/m3, although it is usually 10-15kg/m3, in any case, these parameters are still used in construction today. In private construction, such material is used very rarely, although gradually it began to gain more and more popularity. For example, the insulation of a log house - lined with bricks can be done in this way for intermediate insulation.

Expanded clay is produced by firing clay and / or shale, resulting in a light porous material in the form of oval granules of different fractions. By density, it can be different - 350kg / m3 to 600kg / m3.

But with a decrease in density, its thermal insulation properties increase. Expanded clay is usually used for intermediate wall and floor insulation, as a bulk material.

Of course, the better to insulate the brickwork of the house, you decide for yourself, but looking at the diagram above, you can at least roughly evaluate the possibilities of different materials.

Installation of insulation for frame wall cladding

A very common method is when the insulation for walls outside and inside is mounted between the profiles, laying it close to them (foam and extrusion) or pressing it with dowels with fungi, as in the top photo. It is definitely very convenient.

However, the problem is that the profile itself, especially if it is metal, is an excellent conductor. That is, the entire crate serves as cold bridges for the main wall. In some cases, of course, gaskets are placed under the brackets, but, nevertheless, certain areas (under the profile) still remain without proper protection.

But it is better and correct to insulate a wooden house - lined with bricks or simply made of bricks with cladding, when the insulation completely covers the entire surface of the wall. This is not difficult to achieve - just the insulation is installed before the installation of the profiles.

That is, first they mount the brackets, they put on thermal insulation, then waterproofing, and only after that they mount the crate. These methods are applied both inside and outside the building - the location does not matter.

Installation of insulation for plaster and putty

And now let's see how to properly mount polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam under plaster and putty from the outside and from the inside. Panels of the desired thickness in such cases are simply glued to the wall.

And, although there is a special glue for this, in most cases builders (including myself) use any brand of tile adhesive, although it is best to use universal compounds from the street, for example, Ceresit CM 11. The panel here does not need to be smeared completely like ceramic tiles- it is enough to do it pointwise, in 10-15 places per square meter.

After the foam or extrusion panel is glued to the wall, it is pressed with dowel fungi. For polystyrene, five points are optimally needed, and for extruded polystyrene foam, three (along the sheet).

To do this, a hole is made in the wall through the panel with a perforator, and then a dowel is inserted there, which must enter the wall by at least 50 mm (otherwise it will not hold), and then a spacer nail is driven into it. By and large, under each fungus you need to cut out the sweat with your own hands to drown the hat. But it takes too much time, so they are simply pressed harder against the insulation, compensating for the bulge with putty or plaster.