The device of heat-insulated floors on soil, allows to receive a reliable and durable floor covering. There are several design options, the choice is made based on the following factors:
- Groundwater - level of occurrence;
- The presence of a coolant;
- operating loads.
floor construction
If the waters lie above two meters, then concrete floor construction, will consist of a sand-gravel mixture, covered with polyethylene, on top of which a rough screed is made, covered with roofing material and insulation. The upper layers are represented by a finishing screed, reinforced mesh and similar coverage. If observed low level groundwater (> 2 meters), the design is undergoing changes. After preliminary tamping of the soil, a filling is made, which consists of a sand-gravel mixture, additionally bonded with mortar. A heater is laid on top, sealed with a finishing screed and the same coating.
The main elements of the pie
The structure is called concrete floor cake on the ground, it is precisely its arrangement that needs to be given special attention. The soil that serves as the basis for the floor covering should be carefully compacted. Several layers of crushed stone and sand are provided, each of them has a thickness of 10 cm.
Attention! The backfill will protect the coating from capillary moisture.
It is necessary to use large gravel (fraction 50 mm), as well as river sand, the layers of backfill should be carefully compacted.
The composition of the so-called "pie"
A rough screed is made on top of the backfill, it is placed on the film and has a thickness of 7 cm, its reinforcement is welcome. Here it is necessary to use fine gravel (fraction 10mm) and the same river sand. If there is a low occurrence of groundwater, then filling is done. The bedding is poured with a specially prepared solution, and there is no need to use polyethylene. Concrete floor waterproofing on the ground is done using roofing material, laid in two layers. The floor insulation is made of foam plastic, the density of this material must be at least 30 kg / m 3.
Particular attention is paid to the finishing screed, it has a thickness of up to 10 cm. Fine crushed stone (fraction 10 mm) and river sand are used here, this layer must be reinforced, since there will be a finishing coating on top of it.
Ground floor laying technology
The reliability and durability of the floor covering depends on compliance with the technology. Initially, the base is leveled, it is necessary to determine the zero level, to which concrete will be poured. The surface is cleaned, and then the soil is carefully rammed, concrete floor thickness is 30 cm, therefore, it is necessary to remove the same layer of earth. Now you can fill in gravel, it is filled with water and rammed, sand is poured over it, and then crushed stone. Having compacted the base, it is again covered with a layer of sand, which is leveled and rammed.
Attention! Multi-layer base, necessarily aligned in a horizontal plane.
Waterproofing and thermal insulation
Now you can equip the waterproofing, the first thing is the film spreads, it is important that its thickness is at least 200 microns. The material is laid out along the entire perimeter, its edges are displayed above zero level, the sheets are overlapped, and the joints are sealed with adhesive tape. The thermal insulation layer can be made from several materials:
- Expanded clay;
- Styrofoam;
- Basalt wool;
- Cork;
- Waterproof plywood.
In order for the base to acquire additional strength, it is necessary to reinforce it, this can be done using a metal mesh. It is necessary to lay the frame on a three-centimeter stand.
Pouring a concrete base
Pouring concrete requires precision, in order to avoid trouble, guides should be laid. The room is divided into equal segments (2 meters wide), which are divided using guide bars, the height of which does not exceed the zero level. Fixing the guides is carried out with cement mortar.
We must not forget about the formwork, which is mounted between the guides, which allows you to make "cards", which are subsequently poured with concrete mortar. Formwork is formed from plywood, which has increased moisture resistance. The formwork is leveled in a horizontal plane, in accordance with the zero level, the plywood elements are treated with a special composition, which allows them to be quickly removed from the mixture after pouring.
Pouring is carried out in several passes, having prepared concrete from cement with sand, water and crushed stone (proportion 1: 2: 0.5: 4), you can make a monolithic reliable structure. The process starts from the corner of the room, the mixture is manually leveled with shovels, the coating is compacted with a vibrator.
When everything is ready, you can level the base, for this a rule is used by which excess mixture is removed. Formwork elements are removed, and concrete mixture is added to the voids. The floor covering is covered with polyethylene and left in this state for 30 days, it is regularly moistened with liquid. The finishing touch is the screed, for which they acquire a self-leveling mixture, which is straightened out by the rule.
Warm concrete floor on the ground ready, left to lay flooring, for which you can use any materials, from parquet to linoleum and karmic tiles. Strictly follow the technology to get a reliable coating.
How to properly lay underfloor heating on the basement floor, in log house or in a building that will be used by you only as temporary housing, on the ground? To ensure high strength and reliability of the structure, as well as to exclude subsidence of the soil and reduce heat loss, it is necessary to carry out work in two main stages. On the first of them, a draft floor is poured. After that, you should wait for the screed to fully mature and lay the so-called warm floor cake.
Filling the rough screed
Pouring a rough screed is only a preparatory stage, however, all the work listed below should be done with the highest quality. Otherwise, concrete floors laid on the ground are unlikely to perform to your specifications and provide adequate heating. The following will help rule out any problems in the future. step-by-step instruction:
- to begin with, we carry out marking on the ground and draw a control line along the entire perimeter of the room on the surface of the walls. It will help to adjust the height of each layer of screed or bedding;
- the next stage of flooring on the ground is careful leveling of the soil and its tamping;
- waterproofing, for which either a durable polyethylene film or roofing material can be used;
- preparation of the base for the first layer of insulation, the manufacture of a sand cushion, the height of which should not exceed 2-2.5 centimeters;
- laying pillows made of expanded clay. It is this material that is used as a heater when laying the floor on the ground;
- installation of beacons, which make it possible to pour a perfectly even screed. They are fixed on a cement-sand mortar, made with the addition of a small amount of adhesive for ceramic tiles;
- pouring and leveling the subfloor. It is best to make it reinforced metal mesh, and for concrete mortar use exclusively river sand and fine gravel.
After that, it is better to wait 25-28 days until the screed is fully matured. But if this is not possible, you can proceed with the installation of a warm floor on the ground in a week.
Underfloor heating cake: a description of each layer
As soon as the rough screed acquires the necessary strength characteristics, we begin to lay the floors on the ground in the following sequence:
- directly on the concrete surface is a membrane or a special waterproofing film. It serves to exclude the absorption of moisture by concrete, its gradual destruction under its influence. The waterproofing layer is overlapped with the joints fixed with masking tape;
- insulation is laid on the waterproofing. In its quality, it is better to use polystyrene foam plates. The joints between them are also glued with adhesive tape, which prevents the solution from seeping into the lower layers;
- metallized waterproofing is laid, which not only provides protection against moisture, but also has high strength, allowing it to withstand a serious load;
- fasteners are mounted, as well as heating cables, pipes, infrared film - the materials that you have chosen to equip the floor heating the room;
- installed necessary equipment– thermostats, sensors, etc.;
- a clean screed is poured. When installing floors on the ground, it must also be reinforced (to increase strength, a galvanized steel mesh is used that can withstand the aggressive effects of concrete).
For pouring a finishing screed, it is best to use the so-called semi-dry compositions, in which plasticizers and other additives are used, allowing:
- with minimal effort to create a perfectly flat surface even when laying a warm floor on the ground;
- minimize the risk of moisture absorption by concrete;
- increase the heat transfer of the structure due to the fact that the coating is homogeneous and has practically no voids;
- reduce the drying time of the screed due to the use of a small amount of water in the process of making the solution.
Some semi-dry solutions make it possible to lay the flooring literally a week after pouring the final screed. However, if you have no time to rush, it makes sense to wait 28 days until it fully matures.
Many people wonder how to arrange a warm water floor on the ground? Having step by step instructions to the preparation and arrangement of the entire system, the process is not so complicated. Below is a summary of what a warm floor on the ground is, what you need and how to mount it.
Installation of a heating water structure on the ground will become a special point in reducing the cost of building a foundation foundation for a house. At the same time, it is guaranteed to get a room with a comfortable warm atmosphere at the end.
To ensure that the final structure is reliable and the base is solid the best choice there will be a concrete screed device in several layers, between which the floor heating system will be located. In general, the entire process of installing underfloor heating on top of a soil base consists of two extensive procedures: preparing a concrete base and installing a direct water structure for underfloor heating.
What will be needed?
To prepare the soil for further work and install the heating structure, you will need a certain set of tools and materials.
Basic materials and tools for underfloor heating on the ground:
- coarse sand (river);
- crushed stone;
- heat-insulating material made of aluminum foil;
- fasteners for the pipeline;
- damper tape;
- reinforcing mesh;
- manifold with mounting cabinet;
- building mix for pouring a self-leveling floor.
Foundation preparation
As with any work, preparation begins with cleaning the soil surface from construction debris. After that, you need to decide on the level of the future floor. The measurement of the layered base under the warm floor is carried out from top to bottom. To do this, you need a cord and nails, with which a line is drawn along the perimeter of the territory, symbolizing the clean level of the floor. After that, the layers of screed, coating, substrate and waterproofing are measured down.
Important! If there is a dangerous proximity to groundwater, then you will need to make a drainage system to prevent unnecessary moisture from entering the base.
The next event on the list will be laying the foundation. The materials for its device will be coarse river sand and crushed stone with a particle size of 3 cm, laid according to the scheme to a depth of about 30 cm. The arranged base is carefully compacted with constant moisture.
In the case when the structure is located on a dry hill, a layer of litter is laid on top of the base. If drainage is required, then it is recommended to use a layer of a special material - geotextile. And already on top of the litter crushed stone or gravel of large fractions is poured.
After laying and waterproofing, if necessary, a layer is arranged to insulate heat from the floor. Among the many materials, aluminum foil-coated polystyrene foam, which has low thermal conductivity, is durable and resistant to moisture, will be ideal.
Your question, it almost always arises when installing both a simple floor and a warm floor on the ground. The question is basically whether it is possible to lay waterproofing and all subsequent layers (epps, etc.) on the backfill, or necessarily on the subfloor. Look, a lot of opinions for what is possible. But here we thought for a long time, and consulted, and came to the conclusion that it is still better to lay the waterproofing (and subsequent layers) either on a rough screed, or to perform a spill, and on it. Let me explain what we are based on. You have soil inside the box, although it was caked, but it just lay, without load. Now you will add more layers, and they are also not hard, but bulk. That is, the waterproofing will be between the hard eps and the bulk (albeit rammed) layer. Any movement of the layer under the waterproofing will cause the waterproofing to be somehow unevenly located. Following micromovements of waterproofing, there may be micromovements of eps. I understand that all your top ties will be reinforced, and they will "keep" the ties from moving. But still, why these extra loads? And I can not guarantee that nothing will ever move in the layers under the waterproofing :-).
By the way, you have waterproofing in the text description, but not in the picture. If you have ground water lower than 2 meters from the floor mark, then there may be no waterproofing. Just put eps and so on. But everything I wrote above is still valid. Without a rigid layer under the eps, any movement under it will create additional loads on the upper layers.
- sand filling 50mm thick, level
- dumping of crushed stone or expanded clay with a thickness of 100 mm, and on it, or pouring a layer of crushed stone / expanded clay with liquid cement-sand mortar((2 parts of sand per 1 part of cement), or a rough screed. In total, the thickness of the crushed stone / expanded clay already spilled with a solution will be 10-12 cm. see Let the mortar harden and lay the waterproofing and subsequent layers on top of it.
- waterproofing
- laying blocks of expanded polystyrene, a layer of 50mm blocks, 20mm blocks on it, so that the total is 70mm
- top waterproofing with foil
- fittings and pipes for underfloor heating, poured into a concrete screed 100 mm thick
- topcoat (tile), about 20mm on it.
As for the fact that the upper 100 mm of soil must be removed for the crushed stone dumping device, this requirement, apparently, in order to arrange the dumping on better packed layers (not on the surface). You can do this, it will only benefit.
In your home, you may need a water heated floor on the ground. Subject to compliance with the existing SNiP, you can do the work yourself, starting from backfilling and ending with a final screed, followed by finishing with a floor covering.
Is it possible to make a water floor on the ground
A pie of a water-heated floor on the ground can be performed provided that the method of installing a heating system using concrete screed. Laying allows you to simultaneously achieve several goals: to make a rough floor and prepare the base for the finish coating.The design of a water heated floor on the ground provides for the work that is usually used for the preparation of a concrete slab in industrial and residential buildings. The result of the work largely depends on the achievement of several tasks:
- Providing reliable thermal insulation that prevents freezing of the floor.
- Protection of the premises from the appearance of dampness.
- Prevention of cracking of the slab after several years of operation.
What "pie" should be under the warm floor
The layout of the floor on the ground is somewhat different from the usual pie used to install the heating system on an already prepared base. The following stages of work are carried out:
To make a water floor on the ground with your own hands, it will take time from 20 days to 1.5 months. You can speed up the installation process by ordering ready-made cement mixtures.
The main mistakes when installing a water floor on the ground
Carrying out work on bulk soil, it is easy to make mistakes leading to the destruction of the plate in the future. Requires strict adherence phased production floor water heating pie, starting from the ground. It would be optimal to preliminarily perform a heat engineering calculation that allows you to accurately determine the thickness of the powder, thermal insulation and the power of the heating system.
Common mistakes during installation are:
- Violations of the technology of installing a warm water floor on the ground. The absence of compensation gaps in the slab, poorly performed work on tamping the powder, improperly laid waterproofing, subsequently become the cause of freezing of the screed, accumulation of condensate and dampness in the room.
- Be sure to sprinkle sand on the soil base before crushed stone. In this case, any type of raw material can be used, but coarse river sand will be optimal. The minimum soil density after compaction depends on the weather and atmospheric conditions of the area and is calculated according to special tables.
A concrete floor on the ground in a private house is a long-known universal way of arranging a reliable and warm foundation. Through the use of new types of insulation, we get good thermal insulation of the entire floor, which leads to a reduction in the cost of public Utilities. And also the insulation is an obstacle to the penetration of moisture and the appearance of fungus and mold.
And the most important thing is that you can build this type of floor with your own hands. In this article we will analyze all the advantages and disadvantages. Consider in detail the arrangement of the floor on the ground.
Floor on the ground: the pros and cons
Let's start with the fact that this type of floor is " layered cake". And each layer has its own functions and purpose, thanks to such a device, the floor on the ground has a number of advantages:
There are not many disadvantages, but they are all there:
Cannot be used on loose ground.
How to make the right floor construction on the ground
We will consider the correct classic floor structure, which will consist of 9 layers. We will analyze each layer separately.
It’s worth saying right away that for each master and specialist, the number of layers can change, and the materials can also differ.
This type of floor is ideal for a strip foundation. The average thickness of the “floor pie” is approximately 60-70 cm. This should be taken into account when building the foundation.
If you do not have enough foundation height, then select the soil, to a given depth. Level the surface and tamp. For convenience, in the corners around the entire perimeter, a scale should be applied in increments of 5 cm, so it will be more convenient to navigate in layers and levels.
Importantly, it is best to rent a vibrating plate for compacting the soil, since the manual method will take a lot of time and will not give such results as a special device.
Clay. If during the sampling of the earth you have reached a layer of clay, then you should not fill in a new one. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm. 
Clay is sold in bags, we pour it out and moisten it with a special solution (4 liters of water + 1 teaspoon of liquid glass), and we carry out ramming using a vibrating plate. After tamping, we spill a layer of clay with cement milk (10 liters of water + 2 kg of cement).
We make sure that there are no puddles. As soon as you spill clay with this composition, the process of glass crystallization begins.
You should not do anything for a day, it is worth waiting for the crystallization process to seize, and it will end in about 14-16 days. This layer prevents the main flow of water from the ground.
Layer of waterproofing material. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture. You can use roofing material, polymer-bitumen materials, PVC membranes and polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.4 mm.
In the case of using roofing material, it is preferable to lay it in two layers, on liquid bitumen. Lay waterproofing overlap with each other and on the walls.
Between themselves 10-15 cm, and on the walls to the height of the floor level. The seams must be glued with construction tape. Walking on waterproofing material should be in soft shoes.
insulation+ layer of vapor barrier. Most best material for insulation, it is extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). For reference, EPPS 5 cm thick can replace a 70 cm layer of expanded clay.
But so, you can use perlite concrete and sawdust concrete. Insulation sheets are laid without joints, so that one plane is formed.
The thickness is determined depending on the region, the recommended thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Some use mats 5 cm thick, and lay two layers, with offset seams, and glue the upper seams with special adhesive tape.
In order to remove cold bridges from the foundation or basement, the insulation is laid vertically and fastened with dowels with inside. Experts recommend insulating the basement from the outside, with one sheet of insulation and also fixing it with dowels. 
On top of the insulation should be laid a layer of vapor barrier. As a vapor barrier material, it is best to use PVC membranes, they do not rot and have a long service life. The disadvantage of this material is the high cost.
The main task of the vapor barrier material is to protect the insulation from the harmful alkaline effects of the concrete solution. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with construction tape.
We make smoothing with the help of a rule or a vibrating screed. As soon as the solution dries, the beacons should be removed, and the cavities filled with a solution.
The entire concrete floor should be covered with a film and watered periodically. In a month, the concrete will gain full strength. To pour concrete with my own hands, I make a solution of the following composition: cement + river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.
In the case of using underfloor heating technology, water or electric. Be sure to mount the rough floor screed on the ground. 
After laying the insulation, pipes or wires are laid. Then we fill the cavities with concrete, lay the reinforcing elements and continue pouring concrete to a predetermined level.
The ground floor technology can be used not only in brick and stone houses, but also in wooden houses. With the right approach and correct calculations, the layers do not harm the wooden elements.
Finish flooring. Received concrete surface suitable for any type of fine flooring. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.
As mentioned above, the combination of components, and the number of layers may be different. It all depends on your finances and capabilities.
Conclusion
As we all know, from 20 to 30% of heat can go through the floor. In cases where there is no “warm floor” system, the floors should be as thermally insulated as possible, and this in turn increases the energy efficiency of the entire house.
The owner of a private house receives comfort, coziness and savings on utility bills. Floors on the ground with insulation are a highly effective and long-term choice for every owner.
The installation of a warm floor in itself is considered a complex engineering task. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the phased device.
Laying a warm floor on the ground refers to complex engineering measures. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the flooring under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the device technology recommendations.
Which pipes are suitable for underfloor heating
The first thing to do is to decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue with the purchase of the desired type of product is being resolved, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know from the outset the system for fixing the pipes, and you will provide everything necessary for this.
So, let's start with the rejection of pipes that do not have such a purpose as use in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic water pipes. The former do not perform well in terms of reliability, the latter do not conduct heat well and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.
Initially, a convenient and reliable mounting system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. It can also be a reinforcing mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with wire, but imagine installing in this way on an area of 100 m 2 or if suddenly several ties come off during the pouring of concrete. Therefore, a mounting underlay or rail system must be used. They are attached to the floor base while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click-clamps.
The mounting system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.
Finally, we decide on the material of the pipes. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the mounting technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.
Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubing is easy to install, soldering requires a bottle of flux and gas-burner. Copper performs best in systems of "fast" underfloor heating, which works in parallel with radiators, but not on a permanent basis. The bending of copper tubes is carried out according to the template, respectively, their fracture is extremely unlikely.
Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically not subject to fracture, but a special crimping tool is required for installation. Polyethylene can have different density, it is recommended not less than 70%. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists diffuse penetration of gases, while water in a pipe of this length can entrain significant amounts of oxygen from the external environment.
Soil preparation
When installing a warm floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined individually. But these data are important already at the first stage of work, in order to deepen the earthen floor if necessary and not sacrifice the height of the room.
In general, the soil is removed 30-35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled in a horizontal plane, the geotextile layer is backfilled with incompressible material, in most cases, PGS is used for this.
After careful manual tamping of the bedding, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. For additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface be brought out into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the cake plus about 10-15 mm more.
The choice of insulation
A floor pie with water heating consists of a heater tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. A fairly narrow range of requirements is imposed on the insulation itself.
Mainly compressive strength is normalized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of grade 225 according to GOST 9573-96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is characteristic that the minimum thickness of the plate is 40 mm, while when installing a reflective screen made of XPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20-25 mm.
Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require a waterproofing device. Many may be put off by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).
The thickness of the insulation is determined thermotechnical calculation. If the preparation used concrete with expanded clay as a filler, 10-15 mm XPS or 60 mm mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values \u200b\u200bshould be increased by 50%.
Preparatory and accumulating screeds
It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and that any movement or vibration of it is excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If used mineral wool, concrete preparation must first be covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.
The screed layer above the insulation must be so thick that its total thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the thermal screen. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5-2 cm from the final height of the ceilings, but you can freely “play” with this value to adjust the inertia of the warm floor. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.
The top layer of the screed, subjected to heating, is poured after the walls are enclosed with a damper tape. The filling of the accumulative screed can, for convenience, be carried out in two stages. On the first one, about 15-20 mm are poured with reinforcement with a rare mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting plane and fasten the pipe installation system, the remainder is poured to the zero level minus the thickness of the floor covering.
1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel bedding; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - hydrovapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - reinforcing mesh; 7 - floor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; 9 - flooring; 10 - damper tape
System installation, proportions and loop pitch
The laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a scheme previously thought out and drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate loop loop.
The same principle applies to floor zoning. For example, in the play area, tubes can be laid at a more frequent pace, and it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In each individual coil of a rectangular shape, depending on the priority of heating, the tubes can be laid either in a snake or a snail, or a combination of options. General rule simple: the farther a specific point is from the beginning of the duct, the lower its temperature, on average, there is a drop of 1.5-2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, the optimal length of the loop is in the range of 50-80 meters.
The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the allowable bending radius. A denser gasket is possible according to the “snail” scheme or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to adhere to a distance equal to 20-30 values of the tube diameter. You also need to make allowances for the thickness of the storage screed and the desired floor heating rate.
The mounting system is fastened along the route of laying through the insulation to the concrete preparation layer, respectively, the length of the fasteners (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% more than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.
When laying the pipe, you should consider an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all loops are fastened in mounting system, they are tested with high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, the top layer of the accumulative screed is poured.
Inclusion of a warm floor in the heating system
It is recommended to lay whole pipe sections without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be reduced either to local collectors, or lead directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is slightly removed from the boiler, or if all rooms have a common corridor, which requires indirect heating.
The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to a manifold assembly. Each of the outlets is equipped with shut-off valves, ball valves with a red flywheel are installed on the supply pipes, and with a blue one on the return. A threaded transition with shutoff valves is necessary for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, its purging or flushing.
An example of a scheme for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - a heating boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; five - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet of underfloor heating
The collectors are connected to the heating main by analogy with heating radiators, two-pipe and combined switching schemes are possible. In addition to the thermostat, the collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that maintain a comfortable temperature of the coolant in the supply at about 35-40 ºС.
