Modern living spaces differ original design, which involves a rather unusual combination of flooring materials with different structures and textures. One of the favorite design tricks is to combine laminate and tile. This is perhaps the best option for zoning living space.
When installing a finishing floor covering, it is often necessary to join the laminate and tiles. But the joint, no matter how hard you try, in the open state is a gap with sharply delineated boundaries, which does not paint the new floor at all. To effectively hide it, special connecting elements were invented - the so-called sills for laminate and tile. Most often they are used when both floor materials are laid in the same plane or the height difference is minimal - no more than 1 cm.
Purpose of sills
At first glance, this element is only necessary to improve the aesthetic component of the coating. But in practice, it performs a number of other, no less important functions. Timely installation of sills is not a laborious process. Therefore, it is recommended to include them in the installation scheme and equipment in advance.
In practice, during the operation of the coating, a large amount of dust and dirt accumulates in the crevices formed by the two materials. Sufficient effort is required to remove it. By installing the connecting element, the labor intensity of the floor can be reduced. In addition to this factor, we note an improvement in the appearance of the coating.
Positive qualities of connecting elements:
- Durability of the coating. The most vulnerable spots of a decorative floor are the edges. Under constant mechanical stress, chips and cracks form at their edges. Laminate thresholds between rooms will have a protective function;
- Safety for residents while walking;
- The ability to hide small defects. Most often these are level differences between different floor coverings;
- Choice different models, differing not only in appearance, but also in the material of manufacture, design and installation method.
It is important to choose the right sills for the hidden fixing laminate or a similar model with a different wiring diagram. To do this, you should familiarize yourself with their varieties.
The choice will be influenced not only by operational, but also specifications this mounting component. In particular, it is necessary to calculate the width correctly in order to completely cover the transition from tile to wood flooring.
Installation of sills on laminate and other materials is carried out different ways:
- the use of decorative sills;
- joint to joint;
- arrangement of podiums.
Types: multilevel, corner, final, straight
- Leveling bills are designed to reduce the height amplitude between different surfaces. With the help of similar structural elements it is possible to hide height differences in the range of 3–18 mm.
- Straight thresholds between rooms are used to equip floor joints of the same height. The maximum possible variation in heights is not more than one millimeter.
- Corner or staircase - have local application. With their help, the floor covering is fixed near the steps. As a rule, they are made of rubber, since there is always a risk of slipping off the steps.
- Finishing - they decorate the approaches to the balcony, the threshold of the hallway, or frame the edges on the podium floors. They are quite often used as a multi-level sill between tiles and laminate flooring.
By the method of connection, they are distinguished:
- Metal bar with through fixation. It is a special strip that covers the joint, pressing its edges to the floor. For mounting as one of possible options, use self-tapping screws equipped with a countersunk head. The bar is also effective when there is a difference in surface heights or an inaccurate trim is made. Silicone sealant can be used to seal the edges of the strip.
- H-shaped profile. It looks like the letter H, which has been laid on its side. The lower shelf is wound under the installed panels, then the tiles are inserted into the opposite groove and laid on the glue. In this case, a gap remains, which is rubbed with a special compound for tiles, and from the side of the lamellas, it is filled with a sealant. For this, acrylic or silicone compounds are suitable.
- H-shaped collapsible. It has two T-shaped strips, which are connected by legs. The bar is installed in accordance with the boundaries of the joint and fixed. After completing the installation, the upper part, decorative, is inserted into the clamp located on the lower part and snapped into place.
Besides important point is the choice of material of manufacture. For a long period of maintenance-free service, it is necessary to carefully check the quality of the product even before purchasing it. The most popular are aluminum models, as they have all the necessary properties - mechanical strength, do not corrode, can be painted in any color.
But in addition to them, there is a choice of the following types of final delimiters:
- Plastic. A budget option that can only be applied if the surface will not be exposed to heavy loads. Also, a flexible sill between and the laminate is used when creating non-straight patterns.
- From fiberboard. The advantage of this material is appearance and harmonious combination with lamellas. The disadvantages include the effect of low mechanical strength. To create a pattern, a special film is applied to the surface of the fiberboard, which is protected with a layer of a special transparent material.
- Rubber. In fact, rubber is used during the manufacture of flexible thresholds. Sometimes polymers and other inorganic additives are added to the composition to create sufficient elasticity.
- Cork. They are very rare, as they are characterized by high cost and insufficient mechanical strength. Scope - decorative gap closure not large sizes.
In addition to these types, manufacturers offer corner thresholds. They are mounted on the edge of the steps to prevent slipping while walking.
In some cases, it is possible to use glass products. But at the same time, all safety requirements are necessarily fulfilled, since a unique appearance is not the main priority when choosing.
How to install a sill between tiles and laminate
For the manufacture of decorative thresholds, wood, plastic or aluminum are used. In texture, they can imitate wood, stone, or even precious stone... All this is the best fit for the design of joints between lamellas and tiles. Aluminum accessories are more resistant to abrasion, that is, they last much longer.
Straight thresholds
The easiest way is to install straight sills. They tightly close the gaps, prevent dirt or moisture from entering the butt joint. This method is not without its drawbacks:
- such a transition cannot be called completely smooth, since it protrudes slightly;
- it is not always possible to choose an accessory to match the floor materials;
- the screws used for fastening are sometimes visible on the surface, although today on the market you can also find laminate sills with hidden fastening.
Nevertheless, they are very popular. This is the most practical way junction of materials.
- dowels are driven into the floor along the line of joining of the laminate and ceramic tiles. It is very easy to do this, since all products that are presented on the construction market today have special markings and symmetrical holes for fasteners. It is very easy to mark the base through them;
- according to the markings made, holes are drilled on the base and the threshold is screwed in with the screws that are included in the kit.
- it doesn’t concern wooden bases- the profile is attached to them immediately using self-tapping screws.
For hidden fastening, special glue or liquid nails are used. This method is rather laborious, however, more aesthetically pleasing, since it allows you to hide the fasteners.
Make sure to floor material did not rest against the groove of the nut. It is necessary to leave an expansion gap of at least 5 mm, which will prevent their linear deformation at temperature extremes.
How flexible sills are installed
For registration of joints complex shape- curved or curved, use a flexible sill between the tile and the laminate. You can buy today these strips, which are able to take the required shape, in almost any building materials store.
Flexible thresholds consist of two parts. The lower one, on which there is a groove clip, is installed during the installation of the floor covering. The decorative insert snaps onto it later, on the finished floor finish.
These moldings are normally characterized by a small bend radius. Therefore, before work, they must be softened. The plastic is either immersed in warm water for about 15 minutes or a blow dryer is used. The insert, ready for installation, is driven into the lower part of the profile with light blows. A mallet is most suitable, its rubber head will not cause any damage to the surface of the decorative strip.
See how beautiful these sills look - photo:
How to dock without a nut: connection methods
Today it is possible to finish the joint between tile and laminate without a sill. With the right degree of dexterity and experience, noticeable level differences between the two layers of material can be prevented. There are several options for joining tiles and laminate flooring without a sill. For each of them, you will need to change standard scheme installation of the coating.
- The first step is to prepare the subfloor. Ideally, the same level of first and second coat is considered. Therefore, the thickness of the lamella backing and the tile adhesive should be calculated in advance. After that, the process of laying the latter begins.
- As soon as the border is formed, you can proceed with the installation wood covering... This will create a tile / laminate joint without a clear boundary. Once again, it is necessary to focus on the same level. During the installation process, it is allowed to use various types of primer to form a single pattern. The only prerequisite is the safety of use for wooden lamellas.
- More challenging task is a combination of laminate and tiles without a wave-shaped sill. In this case, a form layout is prepared. For this, any suitable material is used, for example, a strip of thin-walled metal. The template is installed at the junction of the coatings. Then pieces of tiles are cut according to the resulting contours and installed on the subfloor. The same procedure is carried out with the lamellas. It is important that the blanks fit snugly against the template. After the final installation, it is removed and the joint is filled with a primer. In this way, the decorative surface is laid using the available tools at hand.
We present to your attention the most effective styling technologies.
- Cork expansion joints. Although it is new material, but it is already popular, as the transition is neat and very beautiful. Installation is quick, however long preparation is required. In addition, the materials are cut very carefully to avoid any damage, even the slightest chips. This is due to the fact that the expansion joint is inserted into the joint between the coverings, and it must be even not only in width, but also in depth. To do this, when fitting these materials to each other, a small gap, approximately 2 mm, is left. They differ greatly in strength, and if the tile remains completely intact with their direct contact, then with the laminate everything is completely different - the lamellas can be deformed or damaged. The compensator is placed in the butt joint. It is pushed inward using a regular screwdriver. The cork expansion joint does not require any special maintenance or additional processing.
- Sealants (foam, mastic, paste). In this way, you can hide butt joints of any shape, width and depth. The most important point is the selection of the expansion material. It must have good adhesion to both surfaces, be strong and resilient. It should be borne in mind that after processing the seam is one-piece, that is, if repair is necessary, the entire floor is dismantled. Joints are processed in the following sequence:
- first lay out the tiles, and when the glue is completely seized, the lamellas are fitted under it;
- lamellas should cover the tile with a certain margin;
- mark the exact cut line;
- the unnecessary part of the tile is very carefully cut off with a grinder;
- a part of the substrate is cut off from the lamellas so that at the seam the height of the abutting surfaces is the same. Then the material is thoroughly rubbed with emery;
- the laminate with the part from which the substrate was cut is fixed to the screed with glue;
- after the materials are tightly joined, they begin to seal the seams.
How to make a sill between tiles and laminate - choose the best way
To date, combine two in one room at once floor coverings will not be difficult. The article will focus on how to choose and install the sill between the tiles and the laminate with your own hands, while obtaining the original floor finish.
Closing the seam between tile and laminate
Modern fashion trends dispose to finishing floors with dividing the room into functional zones. This is done through the use of several facing materials. The most interesting is the combination of ceramic tiles and laminate.
To harmoniously combine these two coatings, you will need to use a laminate and tile sill so that the joint between the two areas does not stand out. In the photo and when viewed, this cladding element will not stand out, but on the contrary will complement the originality of the coating.
The junction between two materials is a line and is not always perfectly straight. If you do not close it, then it will be quite difficult to make the seam invisible. A special decorative threshold will allow it to be hidden, as well as to compensate for possible height differences between adjacent areas of flooring.
Materials for the manufacture of sills
Today, there are three main types of sills, depending on the materials used in the manufacture:
- aluminum- high strength characteristics and resistance to wear, low degree of wiping during operation and good resistance to mechanical stress;
- plastic- are mounted together with a rubber backing, which ensures the most tight fit of the sill to the mating surfaces;
- wooden- are less flexible and tend to dry out, therefore they are less popular, but sometimes their design is ideal for combined coatings.
Classification according to the configuration of the sills
As for the parameters, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be of two types: flexible or straight. If the first one is the simplest plate for eliminating the visible straight-line gap between two decks, then the curved one is a real accessory for people with design talent, which helps to bring to life the most non-standard ideas.
Existing flexible laminate and tile sills can change their installation path along a small radius.
To date, the thresholds are supplied for sale in a collapsible form. If earlier it was possible to purchase a nut and firstly insert it into the gap, cutting it off, now you will need to first use the substrate, and then fix the decorative strip itself on it.
It is worth remembering the low elasticity of wooden sills, therefore it is worthwhile to understand that the flexible threshold for laminate and tile can only be plastic or aluminum.
Types of connection types
There are several basic modifications that thresholds for laminate and tile can accept, depending on how the plank will be connected to the coating. See also: "How to make a threshold between laminate and laminate - ways".
The following options are worth highlighting:
The H-shaped sill for the joint between the laminate and the tile is laid in the following sequence:
- The plank is turned over on its side and inserted under adjacent floorings so that the laminate is inserted into one groove of the sill, and into the other - ceramic tile.
- The seam formed on the side of the tile is sealed with grout, and a sealant is used under the laminate. Thus, it turns out that one side of the letter "H" is held by a hook from the lower part of the covering, and the upper one is laid over the flooring like a simple metal sill.
There is also a kind of split H-shaped sill, which was created to facilitate the installation process. The separation takes place at the level of the jumper. The lower part is laid under the adjacent decks in the same way as described above for a one-piece element, and the upper part is simply inserted into it.
The process of laying the sill between the tile and the laminate
As for laying the simplest metal sill, the owner can do the work on his own.
To do this, he will have to perform the following actions:
- measure the thickness of the seam at the junction of the tile and laminate;
- mark the strip to be laid taking into account the previously obtained dimensions;
- attach a nut and outline the intended places of fastening with self-tapping screws;
- drill holes for fasteners, taking into account the seal, which must be previously driven into them;
- screw the screws through the strip into the seals.
If it is not possible to use a hammer drill with a drill and a thickening to take into account the size of the seal, then you can process the joint threshold for laminate and tile using a larger drill.
As for the screwed-in self-tapping screws, they must be sunk below the surface of the strip so that they do not cause discomfort during operation. Mistakes during installation can lead to injury if occupants start bumping into a protruding fastener or an unsecured threshold.
It will be more aesthetic to use hidden fasteners to fix the bar. In this case, you can use liquid nails. Such an adhesive composition is applied under the sill for the laminate and tiles; a multilevel installation method will not be a problem. In the photo and during visual inspection, such a mount will not be noticeable, which makes the decorative element more original.
It is possible to do without sills for combining different floor coverings, given that the price of such decorative strips is high, but it is not recommended, since without them the laying of the flooring itself becomes much more complicated (read: "How to make a joint between tiles and laminate without a sill - options" ). A correctly selected nut will perfectly fit into the interior of the room and will complete the idea that the designer conceived.
Naturally, when working with construction companies the owner can also order the service of laying the nut in combination with the equipment of the floors in the room. Experts will take responsibility for the choice of planks, their installation and even provide a guarantee for all services provided.
Gaps for the joint between tiles and laminate
Zoning of the space of the premises is often performed by the device of floor coverings with dissimilar materials. The surface of the kitchen area is covered with ceramic tiles, the floor in the dining room or living room adjacent to the kitchen is finished with laminate. The materials belong to completely different groups of facing products, but they perfectly coexist side by side. For the design of the connecting lines between them, there are sills for laminate and tiles, which can divide the space, while simultaneously making it solid. They frame stair steps, podiums, exits, transitions between rooms from laminate to tiles.
Docking methods
Since it is no longer customary to equip door frames threshold, joints of floors adjacent rooms also joined with an additional profile, hiding the gaps. It doesn't matter if they are made only with laminate or in combination with ceramic tiles. Docking lines are straight, curved, complex. Floor surfaces can be in the same horizontal plane, with a slight difference in height. There are many planks, profiles that help hide all transitions and irregularities. They can be found on the shelves of almost any building materials store.
In addition to thresholds, there are other ways of joining heterogeneous elements. It is impossible to accurately determine their effectiveness, but getting to know each other is necessary. The transition from tile to laminate can be done with:
- sealants (foams, pastes, mastics) - they can be used to seal joints of any configuration. It is important to choose a sealant that will have good adhesion to tiles and laminates. The connection turns out to be practically eternal. This is both an advantage of the method and its disadvantage. If it is necessary to carry out repair work, all floors will have to be dismantled. Since sealants tightly grow together with laminated surfaces, tiles. They can only be used with absolutely the same height of both coatings;
- cork expansion joints are completely new products that are already popular. If the work is done exactly according to the technology, the transition is neat and beautiful. The installation process is quite simple, the compensator is laid with a regular screwdriver. Preparatory actions take a lot of time, require special care, since the seam should turn out along the entire length of the same depth and width. Any damage to the edges of the coatings is not allowed. This is especially true for laminate flooring.
Sealants 
Cork expansion joints
Of all the methods, the most convenient option for joining materials of different quality is the sill between the tile and the laminate. A large number of market offers building structures make it possible to give the floor surface a neat, finished look.
Types of sills for laminate and tiles
The classification of connecting elements for joining ceramic tiles and laminate can be performed, guided by several features: materials, purpose, methods of connection. The most commonly used raw materials are aluminum, plastic, wood, cork, a combination of metal plus rubber are also used. By design, a threshold (this is how even a completely flat element is called) happens:
- traditional, classic, if it is a frame of steps, outer corners of one or two quality different materials... It has the shape of an inner or outer corner. The threshold is usually made of metal, since wood or plastic is not strong enough, stairs need strong profiles. The steps are subject to a fairly large load from the movement of people, goods, therefore, increased requirements are imposed on the upper coatings;
- edging or leveling - with a small difference in levels for tiles and laminates, the sills are made of metal, equipped with an elastic rubber gasket. It is the rubber layer that compensates for height differences during installation. The result will make itself felt - a fairly flat surface is obtained. If there is a larger difference in height, it makes sense to choose a hard plastic nut that is suitable for the size of the section;
- decorative overlays with which the threshold is trimmed at the transitions between rooms. The material is used in the case of joining homogeneous and dissimilar parts. The linings are made from almost any material. If metal is taken, then it can be decorated with a finishing film for the main type of floor, plastic strips are made in any color, for any texture;
- curved sills - used when the connection of dissimilar surfaces is to be unusual design solution... The joint can turn out to be beautiful, even only when both floor surfaces are laid on the same level. Aluminum is not useful here, since it is not flexible enough, arbitrary bends cannot be made. Therefore, a durable plastic, cork, is used. It is not easy to set such a threshold, but it looks very nice;
- final - they are used when they frame the edges of the hallway covering, at the exit to the balcony, loggia, at the podium. A threshold of this type is very often used as a multilevel threshold when a laminate and ceramic products are connected.
Final 
Decorative 
Classical 
Curvilinear 
Docking
There remains one more option for dividing the sills into types - the connection method. In cross-section, the product can be a one-piece letter H, a flat bar, as well as a composite letter H, consisting of two T-shaped bars. A profile in the form of a solid H, laid on one side, is applied by laying the covering on both sides of the plank. Fastening to the floor with self-tapping screws. In the latter version, one of the planks is installed at the bottom of the seam, with the leg up. The second, with a decorative surface, is mounted on top, then connected with the lower clamp.
Which one is better to choose
It is impossible to unambiguously determine which nut, from which material to choose. For the simple reason that for different conditions connections require their own products. By constructive decision thresholds must be purchased according to the intended purpose, as well as the intended installation method. Sometimes you need flat pads, corners, sometimes you can't do without a special profile, sometimes only a cork product can help. If we are talking about the material that is used in the manufacture of thresholds, it is chosen based on the intensity of operation of the floor elements. It should be borne in mind that wooden products, soft plastic moldings are highly susceptible to abrasion, and will quickly cease to serve. Metal profiles are not suitable for making complex curved connections. Then you need to opt for plastic products, supplemented with rubber material, designed to warm up, bend, take the desired configuration.
Textural, color solutions problems will not be delivered, everything is much simpler. There are no restrictions here. Plastic sills are produced in such a wide range of colors that they can satisfy the needs of any design option for flooring, the general interior of the room. Hardware the issue is resolved in a slightly different way. Designers have come up with special film decorations that are highly durable. They can be matched to the color, texture of the used laminated, tiled surface.
Installation rules
There are two ways to mount connecting products: open and closed. The first option is used to install metal elements... They call it open because the caps of the fasteners remain in sight, which subsequently need to be painted with the color of the threshold. Fastening is carried out using ordinary plastic dowels equipped with self-tapping screws. The metal plane for this has holes made at the factory. With a hidden method of securing the thresholds, first install the lower part of the profile, screwing it to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or planting it on strong glue. On this part of the profile, there are special clips for the upper bar. The decorative part of the molding clicks securely into place, a very strong connection is obtained.
The floor covering must not completely fill the gap in the sill. It is necessary to create an expansion gap that will not allow linear changes in the coating with temperature drops.
Features of mounting flexible sills
If framing straight thresholds with a corner practically does not cause problems, then the installation of curved connections has some features. They should be considered in more detail. Neither wood nor metal is suitable for these cases due to their inability to bend at any degree. There are two possibilities to connect laminate flooring and tiles: use cork inserts or complex plastic profile... The plug is easy to install, but it requires thorough, thorough preparation for its arrangement. The balsa wood expansion joint cannot close the blemishes of uneven cut edges in laminate or tile. In order for the joint to be neat and beautiful, the gap between different coatings should be no more than two millimeters.
The abutting laminate and tile surfaces are located strictly in the same plane. Their edges are carefully leveled, sanded, and adjusted very precisely to one another.
If ceramic tiles do not cause problems, then laminated boards are difficult to process, they will require additional labor and time. The result is worth it - high-quality cork joints look very beautiful.
For a curved connection, the plastic molding also needs a curved one. With ready-made radii, it is impossible to get such. Usually, products are sold that have a relatively slight bend. To get the rail of the required configuration, before installation work must be softened. This can be done with a hot air gun or simply by immersion in hot water. After such actions, the material becomes pliable, easily bends according to the specified parameters. This profile consists of two parts.
The lower part is attached to the floor along the contour of the seam. It is installed parallel to the base coat. On the side of the laminated surface, it is necessary to provide a small gap to create an expansion joint. Since the boards can shrink and expand with changes in temperature. Let it be insignificant, but in order to avoid deformations, this must be done. The upper part is neatly connected to the fastening clips located on the lower element. In order not to damage the surface of the decorative profile and flooring, you should use not an ordinary hammer, but a wooden mallet. Plastic slats are convenient in that they can hide a fairly large height difference between the coatings. There are profiles that can close the vertical difference between laminate and tiles up to 18 mm.
Video of installing the sill between tiles and laminate
In the video you can see how to properly arrange the joint between the tile and the laminate.
How to make a technological joint between tiles and laminate
Bends in the place of contact of two floor coverings look beautiful in design projects and in photos, but it is very difficult to make them in real life. In this lesson, we will look at how to make a technological joint between tiles and laminate in straight and winding sections.
Serpentine and complex transitions look beautiful only on projects and cause a lot of inconvenience
Most often, the joining of laminate and tiles has to be done in the following cases:
- In the hallway and in the kitchen - so as not to spoil the laminate from moisture and increase the durability of the coating;
- For zoning a room;
- Under the doorway.
Fast navigation through the article
Junction node options
There are several ways to make technological joining of laminate and tiles:
- Flexible PVC profile - suitable for any curved bends. Consists of a base and a decorative cap.
Cezar PVC flexible profile
Flexible metal joint profile
- Thresholds with holes for self-tapping screws - standard;
- With hidden mounts - they look more beautiful;
- Self-adhesive is the easiest installation.
Standard aluminum nut
Door frame with threshold
According to the "Guide to the design of autonomous engineering systems single-family and blocked residential buildings "(Ventilation section, clause 4.84) under interior doors there must be a gap of at least 2 cm for air flow.
Solid profiles and sills
Transition profiles smooth out abrupt transitions between two coatings
Installation methods
Let's take a closer look at the installation features of each option.
Cutting tiles and laminate
When the seams between the two materials are straight, there are no problems with their fit, but curvy sections are difficult to trim. To do this, you will need to make a template from the material at hand (cardboard, expanded polystyrene, etc.), on which to make the markup of the future joint.
- A curved cut on the laminate is done using a hand or electric jigsaw.
- The tile can be cut to fit any shape bend with a grinder with a diamond disc on the tile, or manually with a jigsaw / hacksaw with a diamond wire. You can also drill as many holes as possible along the cut line, and break off the excess with wire cutters.
Installation of flexible PVC profile
Installation instructions for flexible PVC profile
- After laying the tiles and laminate flooring, there should be a gap that is thick enough to fit the fixing profile and leave a 5 mm thermal gap next to the laminate flooring.
- Using a hammer drill, we drill holes for dowels in the expansion joint. If you have a warm floor passing through the seam, then liquid nails can be used for installation, but it is better to exclude such cases even at the design stage.
- Cut off the required profile length using a knife / hacksaw / jigsaw.
- We fasten the fastening profile to the base with self-tapping screws.
- Before laying the decorative flexible profile, you need to soften it. To do this, it is placed in warm water (50-70 degrees) for 15-20 minutes.
- The decorative cap is inserted into the mounting profile and snaps into place.
Installation of flexible metal profiles
- Before starting work, calculate the thickness of the tile and laminate, taking into account the adhesive and the substrate - they must match.
- Manually give the required bend to the profile.
- We cut off the required length using a grinder or a hacksaw for metal.
- The profile has special legs for fixing it to the floor, so it is better to install it simultaneously with laying the tiles. The foot will be pressed against the tile with adhesive, and on the other side, the backing and laminate are simply inserted.
The profile is held by pressing the tiles
Installation of an aluminum nut
A conventional nut with holes is installed as follows:
- Cut the sill to the width of the doorway.
- Mark the drilling points at the joint.
- Drill holes, insert dowels and fix the nut on the screws from above.
- To screw in the self-tapping screws, use a screwdriver or screwdriver with a minimum torque, otherwise the nut will bend.
An important nuance: the measurement is done taking into account the casing, and not just between the two extreme points of the box. Then the sill is trimmed to fit the trim to avoid gaps.
If the nut has a hidden attachment:
- Holes are marked on the base.
- A self-tapping screw with a dowel is inserted into the groove on the seamy side of the nut.
- Holes are made in the floor.
- The nut with the dowels on is inserted into the holes and hammered to the end. To avoid damaging it, hit it through the bar spacer.
Installation instructions for a threshold with hidden fastening to the joint between laminate and tile
The standard fastening has a significant drawback: the BM 6x40 dowel has a large gap between the cap and the arch of the threshold, so it will not be installed reliably. To avoid this, it is better to take 8x60 dowels and grind off the cap on both sides for a snug fit.
To remove the backlash - take a larger dowel and saw off the cap
The easiest way is to put a nut with a self-adhesive base:
- Mark the edge of the sill on the floor covering to glue it evenly in the center of the joint.
- Delete protective film from the self-adhesive base and stick it.
Conclusion
WITH practical point In view of the appearance of additional thresholds at the junction, it is not very convenient - the floor becomes more difficult to wash and you can stumble over it.
Also keep in mind that the laminate must be installed in a floating way, so do not use sealants, grout or foam to fill the joints.
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How to lay tiles on the floor correctly: a hands-on workshop
Tile or laminate in the kitchen: which is better for the floor, combining two coatings
Modern design very often has an original, previously unusual combination of materials used not only for wall decoration, but also for floors. Such materials differ in texture and structure, most often modern designers and builders combine laminate and tile. Today, such a combination is considered the best option division of space into zones. There is one problem with such an unusual combination - to dock these two materials. In this regard, special sills were invented between the tile and the laminate, which are a convenient joint material. Basically, these devices are used on floors that are decorated in one plane or there is a small difference of no more than a centimeter.
The gap between the tile and the laminate has the following varieties:
- The flexible sill between the tile and the laminate is used for curved bends and is a decorative cap and base. With the use of this design, the transition joint looks good.
- A flexible metal profile is used in areas with curved lines, as well as where the seams are straight. To increase wear resistance, a powder coating is used for them.
- Aluminum sill, mainly used for joints that are located under the door. It is designed to hide the seam and smooth out the height difference.
- Box nut. This design is an excellent way to increase sound insulation, eliminate drafts and protect the bathroom from water leakage during a flood into other rooms. True, he has one inconvenience; you can constantly stumble over him. Therefore, experts do not really recommend it.
- T - shaped profile from solid wood. Such sills are used to design straight seams. It is worth noting that their cost is quite high, but visually, such designs look very beautiful and stylish.
- Cork expansion joint. This perfect option for a smooth joint without a threshold between tiles and laminates. But for this, the finishing material must be cut very evenly and a cork seal is added to the seams. True, over time, various debris and dirt can get into the cracks, which are difficult to clean.
- The transition profile made of PVC makes it possible to beautifully and neatly remove all the differences between the finishing materials.
Everyone can choose their own threshold between tiles and laminate according to the type of work and functional wishes for the joint.
Simple joint, mounting options
The space between tiles and laminate has several uses:
- joint to joint;
- in the form of podiums.
A straight line of contact of finishing materials can be attributed to a simple joint. In this case, installing the nut will not take much time and will not require unnecessary knowledge and effort. In general, plastic or aluminum joint materials are suitable in this case. They help close the seam and keep liquids and dirt out of the seam.
This method has some downsides:
- the transition between the facing material will not differ smoothly, since the sill will protrude slightly;
- the difficulty in choosing the color identical to the tile and laminate;
- you will have to fasten the nut on screws that can spoil the visual appearance of the coating, although there are structures that are equipped with a hidden type of fastening.
Installation of decorative sills
Decorative sills are most often made from wood, plastic and aluminum. They create beautiful imitations of stone, wood and even the figurative look of some precious items. All this allows you to design the joints between floor coverings in an original way. It is worth noting that aluminum fixtures are as durable as possible, and have a longer service life than others.
To install decorative sills, dowels are used along the joint line. According to the markings, which are applied in advance, holes are made with a drill and the structure is screwed in with self-tapping screws. All this makes the installation of the threshold as easy as possible.
If provided wooden structure, then it can be fixed without preparation, also with self-tapping screws. Models in which the fasteners are hidden are attached to liquid nails or ordinary construction glue. Such structures are more difficult to install, although the view will be much better and more aesthetically pleasing.
Installation of flexible sills
Flexible sills are used in difficult situations, most often when the shape has certain curves. In modern hardware stores, you can find a large assortment of sills for any, even the most exotic form of joint.
The connecting flexible nut has the ability to take any shape. This design consists of two parts: a groove-clip is provided on the bottom, a decorative part on top. The clip is laid during installation finishing material and the top on the finished floor.
In the normal state, such sills do not differ in increased flexibility; in order to give them this property, a softening process must first be carried out. That is, the structures are placed for some time in warm water or treated with hot air, for this you can use a building hair dryer.
The video will tell you how to install the flexible sill correctly.
Joining laminate and tiles without the need for a nut
The joint between the laminate and the tile without a sill is a reality, however, you will have to select the same coating height for such an installation. Also, the docking process will have to spend a lot of time and effort, and skills in this matter will not interfere.
Before starting work, you need to accurately and accurately measure the height and determine exact dimensions facing material. Also, in this case, you will have to use grouting to give a neat look to the work done.
This method is rather complicated, but it is not expensive at the same time. The main thing is not to use multilevel material and correctly calculate all sizes.
There are some nuances - these are wavy and curved joints, at which the level of difficulty is maximized. In this case, it is best not to use a joint of large seams without the participation of a special nut.
Alternative ways
Narrow joints, where a rigid sill is not used between the tile and the laminate, can be made using alternative methods, which include:
- Cork material. In any hardware store, you can easily find special cork expansion joints, which are very easy and simple to install in the joint, between the facing materials. This method of joining eliminates the technological gap, this is due to the fact that the cork layer of 10 mm tends to increase or decrease within 5 mm. Previously, it will be necessary to prepare the material as much as possible so that there are no chips on it. During installation, the expansion joint should be in the middle of the joint and not overlap the floor.
- Sealant. This method is not at all excluded and is very often used in joining facing material. Using this method, it is worth considering that the installation of the laminate is carried out in a floating way and in some cases the sealants negatively affect the quality of the material.
How to make the right choice
It is wrong to choose the gaps between the tile and the laminate according to the principle which is better, since for each situation the joining material is selected individually. This is due to the fact that each conditions require its own type of joining.
Select the lanes correctly according to the following principle:
- purpose;
- installation method;
- joint shape;
- joint thickness.
When choosing the material for the nut, first of all, it is worth relying on its performance, and in which room it will be used. With increased cross-country ability, it is better to choose a more wear-resistant material, most often aluminum. But wood and plastic, in spite of their excellent decorative qualities, quickly wear out. It is not at all difficult to choose a color today, modern manufacturers are ready to provide a wide range of shades and tones. To do it correctly and beautifully, as in the photo above, you can choose the right option for your coating according to the manufacturer's catalog from any dealer, both for the sale of laminate and tiles.
Laminate and ceramic tiles are two of the most popular in Lately, floor coverings. How to arrange the joint between the laminate and the tile, so that it is correct and beautiful, and will be discussed. If the connection point is in the doorway, the best way out- nut. This type of product can be called "transition profile", "connecting profile" and so on in the same spirit. But not always the joint between the laminate and the tile is in the doorway. For other cases, there are other solutions that can also be applied between rooms.
Tile or porcelain stoneware and laminate are two completely different floor coverings with different properties and characteristics. But both materials change size when temperature and humidity change. The tile changes slightly, but the laminate can increase or decrease by 1-1.5 mm per meter of length. And if the length of the room is 5 meters, this is already from 5 mm to 7.5 mm.
Docking tiles and laminates without thresholds and with thresholds. Everyone chooses what he likes best
As you understand, if you do not take care that the materials have room to expand, they will rise, therefore, along the walls, they leave a technological expansion gap. It should be at the junction of the laminate and tiles too. Therefore, they are not laid close to each other, but leaving an empty distance between the two coatings. This distance is at least 10 mm. To cover this distance, use sills, profiles. Is it possible to do without sills at the junction between laminate and tile? Can. There are solutions, but it can only be placed side by side if the length of the laminate is short. Otherwise, the gap is simply filled with a suitable elastic material or insert.
Porozhek serves another purpose. It can be used to cover the connection of materials of different levels. It will not be possible to close a big difference, but a few millimeters is easy. When joining tiles and laminate without a sill, it is necessary to bring two coatings to the same level without the slightest deviation. One more thing: the tile and laminate trim must be perfect. After all, the seam turns out to be open.
Metal thresholds
The metal sills between the tile and the laminate are made of aluminum and brass. Can be found in stainless steel. The surface can be:
- glossy (polished) or matte;
- painted - powder painting, chrome plating, anodizing or galvanizing;
- laminated with the same film that is used in the manufacture of the laminate.
This is what the nut can be made of. There are also plastic and wooden ones. Plastic ones are too short-lived, although replacing them is not a problem. They cost a little, they are mounted simply and quickly. Wooden ones are usually used at the junction of parquet or plank floor with tiles. Next, let's talk about the forms and features of their installation.
Docking strip
The simplest and cheap way close the joint - install a regular overhead sill. This is a slightly curved bar made of aluminum or brass. A notch can be applied to the "back" so that the foot does not slip. Installation - directly through the strip to the base using dowels or self-tapping screws. Holes for mounting hardware can be drilled at the factory. There are options when you need to do them yourself.
Simple overhead nut Before installation, measure the width of the opening, cut off the bar of the required length. Then they put it in place. When installing on self-tapping screws, there are no problems - we immediately fasten it to the base (plywood, gypsum fiber board and other materials). If the base is cement or concrete, dowels are required. Then, using a pencil, a marker and a thin drill, the holes for the fasteners are transferred to the base. Drill holes for plastic plugs. The drill diameter is equal to the diameter of the fastener. Insert the plugs, put the nut in place and tighten the dowel-nails.
The second way to mount the flat nut is on silicone or elastic glue. It is not as reliable, although the silicone is also quite strong. There are also such overhead sills with an adhesive applied. When installing them, the surfaces must be well cleaned and degreased with white spirit. After drying, remove the protective film and put the sill back in place, smooth / press down well.
By the way, when installing on screws / dowels, it is also better to apply a strip of sealant or glue to the edges of the nut. Both formulations must remain flexible after drying. The elasticity will allow the coatings to move slightly - with changes in humidity and temperature. And the composition itself will not allow sand and other small debris to be under the bar. Otherwise, during operation, it cramps into the gap, and then begins to slowly lift it up.
Nut with cable duct
Low-current wiring - TV cables, Internet cables - can be a problem. It is not clear where to lay these wires and cables so that they are safe, accessible for inspection and at the same time do not spoil the appearance. One solution is to use floor skirting boards with cable ducts. But how do you get them through the doorway? There are two solutions. The first is around the doorway, the second is to be laid in the sill with a cable channel.
Nut with cable duct They are of two types - convex, of different width / height, built-in. Recessed, these are those that are practically on the same level with the flooring. They are usually metal with a molded recess. But you can't hide a lot of wires there. They can be with or without rubber pads.
T-shaped saddle
The good thing about T-sills is that you don't have to use fasteners when installing them. These are the so-called hidden fastening sills for laminate flooring. If pipes or cables or other communications pass through the floor, it is dangerous to drill it. The T-shaped saddle consists of two parts: the actual protective strip in the form of the letter T and an auxiliary profile. This profile is usually U-shaped. Such profiles are available for single-level coatings (they are cheaper) and for multi-level coatings (more expensive).
The T-shaped threshold can be for single-level and multi-level coatings Multilevel T-sills can be placed with some inclination. For this, both the "leg" of the overhead strip and the walls of the U-shaped profile are provided with notches. But the difference cannot be large - a few millimeters. Maximum - up to 3 millimeters. Although, there are more expensive systems in which the top bar consists of three movably connected parts. Here the difference may be greater.
More expensive options that "adjust" to the difference between laminate and tile The installation of the T-piece is to glue / screw on the auxiliary U-profile. The T-piece is then inserted into it. These parts are sold separately. It is clear that the shape of the groove of the auxiliary profile and the protrusions on the T-shaped part must be compatible. This view is good in that the decorative strip is easy to replace. But if you took it out once, it won't hold on the second time. That is, you will need a different decorative strip. They don't cost too much.
Z-shaped
The main idea of the nut is to leave freedom of movement for the coating as it grows in size. Tile and porcelain stoneware change less, laminate more. Therefore, they make Z-shaped sills with shelves of different widths. A narrow shelf of a few millimeters covers the tile cut, a wider one closes the gap to the laminate.
Z-shaped transition sills This nut is good in that it does not need to be fixed: the lower bar is wound under the tile and is held due to the strength of the glue. The downside is that such a threshold between the tile and the laminate can only be installed when installing the tiles. Laminate flooring can be started later, but the sill should only be laid together with the tiles.
Joining tiles and laminates without thresholds
If the joint between the laminate and the tile does not pass under the door, the use of sills looks illogical and scratches the eye. In this case, you can put not sills, but of various kinds compensators. They do not go into the material, but they fill the gap. And once again we draw your attention to the fact that when joining a laminate and a tile in this version, the trimming must be jewelry and perfectly executed.
The docking bar is not always in the form of a nut How to bring tiles and laminate flooring to the same level
As already mentioned, if you want to make the joint between the laminate and the tile without overhead sills, you need to bring the coverings one level. The match must be accurate. If it turns out that the laminate "comes out" a little lower, you will have to look for a substrate of suitable thickness. If the difference is too large, alignment may be required tile adhesive... The alignment is smooth. Remember that the permissible difference for the laminate is 2 mm by 2 meters in length. So all this will need to be thought out in advance.
If the laminate + substrate is thicker, level it out with a thicker layer of glue under the tile. With a difference of 1-2 mm, you can play due to a larger layer of glue, a spatula with a deeper tooth. If more than 2 mm, you will have to do preliminary alignment. The rise should be smooth - not less than a meter. For this, a bar is prepared with a length of a little more than a meter. At one end of it, a ledge is made, with which the bar will rest on the edge of the laminate. The step from the lower end of the plank to the ledge is equal to the thickness of the tile + the thickness of the adhesive.
We carry out the alignment with tile glue. It dries faster. We apply it to the area to be leveled. We support the bar with a ledge on the laminate, with the other end on the base of the floor. It is better to pre-stick masking tape on the laminate. Better - a few strips to protect against glue and scratches. We carry out this bar "towards ourselves", collecting excess glue. Then we post them on. The work is similar to that of concrete or mortar on beacons. Having achieved a relatively flat surface, we leave it to dry. There is no need to remove ideally - tile glue will hide small (a few millimeters) flaws. Then it's up to filling the seam.
Cork expansion joint
The transition between tile and parquet or tile and laminate can be filled with a cork expansion joint. This is a cork block covered with a protective / decorative layer of a certain color. It comes in different heights (from 8 mm to 16 mm) and widths (8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm). So it is matched to the width of the opening.
Cork expansion joints Attach the plug to the sealant. Can be acrylic. They can be tinted in some color, you can match them with filler. It is better if the sealant remains elastic after drying, then the joint between the laminate and the tile will look normal for a long time. The usual one will crack, dust will cram into the cracks, which will significantly reduce the attractiveness.
The method for installing a cork expansion joint between the laminate and the tile is as follows:
- We clean the gap between the tile and the laminate.
- Apply sealant in a zigzag pattern to the base.
- Install the expansion joint, press down, align flush with the coating.
- We bend the plug to one side, apply the sealant.
- Press tightly to this edge, apply on the other side.
- We expose exactly.
- We mix water with detergent for dishes, take a sponge and remove the squeezed out excess.
Cork expansion joint - one of the options If the surface of the seams is normal, you can leave it as it is. If you need to touch up, take a small rubber spatula or rubber flap and form a concave edge. So the elasticity of the composition will remain longer and it will not burst. The spatula can be replaced with a gloved fingernail (you can use a plastic one, you can use a rubber one).
Fill with liquid stopper or sealant
If the sill between the tile and the laminate is not attractive in any way, you can fill the gap with a liquid plug or fill it with a sealant. The materials are different, but the filling method is the same. The liquid cork is sold in polyethylene tubes, the sealant is sold in different ways, but it is more convenient to work with tubes for a mounting gun. The sealant and liquid stopper must be flexible. Moreover, the elasticity must be maintained after drying. Otherwise, there is no point in such insertions.
Seam filling with liquid cork or sealant Installation is simple: we clean, fill, level the surface, wait until it dries. But there are moments. First. Before work, it makes sense to protect the coating with masking tape. They are glued exactly to the edge. After work, they are removed, there are no problems with washing off the sealant or liquid cork. Second. The sealant is usually squeezed out of the tube, but the liquid cork cannot be inserted there. You will need a small rubber spatula. We cut the edge of the tube, gradually squeeze out the composition, fill in the seam. This is where scotch tape comes in handy. Third. The rule for plug / sealant alignment is the same as described above. It is necessary to create not a flat surface, but either curved or concave. So the seam stretches and shrinks better, does not crack, does not lose its appearance.
It should be said about the parameters of the gap that can be filled with the composition. The sealant retains its elasticity only if the layer depth is not greater than the joint width. That is, if the gap is too narrow and wide, the lower part needs to be filled with something. Do not forget that this "something" must be elastic.
Profile between laminate and tile
Another way to arrange the junction of the laminate with the tile is to insert a profile or a metal compensating insert. This is a U-shaped insert with a strip attached to one side, which is wound under the tile. That is, this type of sill is mounted when laying tiles. There is no other way. That is, first a tile is laid, a profile is laid under it, and then a laminate is attached to it on the other side.
So that small debris does not penetrate into the cracks and dust does not clog, before laying the material, coat its edges with a sealant. It is also important here that the sealant does not crack, so we are looking for an elastic one too. Why is it possible to fix the laminate to the metal expansion joint? Because it is due to its elasticity and will perceive the load.
Smooth joint
Not always tiles or porcelain stoneware are connected to the laminate in a straight line. There are joints with smooth, rounded curves. How to proceed in this case? It is possible to fill the seam with a sealant or liquid cork as described above, but there are special flexible profiles and sills. The profiles are mostly metal. They are easily distinguished by the small thickness of the top shelf that covers the edge of the laminate (usually). The second distinguishing feature is a part cut into fragments, which is wound under the tile. This is what makes the profile flexible.
These are metal profiles for the design of a smooth joint line. Shelf width - from 1-2 mm to 4-5 mm. The wider the shelf, the smaller the bending radius. Before installation, give the desired shape, wind up under the tile. On the other hand, the edge of the laminate is brought under the shelf. So the installation is simple.
There are also flexible T-shaped profiles made of rubber and flexible plastic. They, like ordinary T-shaped sills, consist of two parts - a U-shaped embedded profile and a lining. The only difference is that the pad is flexible. That's just the plastic and rubber are used tough enough - so that they do not wear off and do not scratch. That is, in the usual form, it will not be possible to bend strongly. If it is necessary to make a sharp bend, the sill between the tile and the laminate is kept in hot water(about 70 ° C) about 15-20 minutes. The heated material bends without problems. It is shaped until it cools down.
