Caring for currants in the spring garden world. Spring currant care: photos, videos, planting and pruning, tips, instructions

Only healthy currant bushes are able to give a full-fledged rich harvest of delicious berries, which means that in no case should you allow your shrub to get sick or be attacked by pests. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out its spring treatment with fungicides and insecticides (including acaricides - preparations against ticks).

Well, let's figure out when, with what and how to properly spray currants in the spring from diseases and pests.

Why do we need spring processing of currants: what pests and diseases will we fight against

with the first spring months and gradual warming awakens not only the berry bush itself, but also pests, as well as spores of fungal diseases.

But in order to be aware of how exactly to process currants in the spring from pests and diseases, you need to know and understand who exactly encroaches on your berry bush most often.

Pests

The very first early spring processing currant from pests is carried out against the following wintering stages of pests:

suckers;
leaf roller;
scale insects;
ticks;
aphids and other sucking and leaf-eating pests.

The second spring and subsequent treatments (including summer) of currants are already carried out against pests such as:

currant kidney mite;

Advice! tick buds You can collect by hand, and preferably as soon as possible, in other words, you do not need to wait for them to swell. To distinguish them from healthy kidneys, remember that they always round, while healthy ones are elongated.

Be sure to burn all collected kidneys!

Pincers - one of the main pests of currants, which, moreover, suffer such an incurable disease as the reversion (terry) of the currant.

spider mite ;

Important! About measures to combat aphids on currants described in detail.

gall aphid;

Note! Ways to deal with aphids on currants described in detail.

gooseberry (currant) moth;

leaflet on currants;

currant gall midge;

gooseberry (currant) sawfly;

gooseberry moth;

Currant glass case.

Currant goldfish.

Video: protecting currants from aphids and currant moths

Diseases

Spring and subsequent currant treatments are carried out against the following diseases, which most often affect bushes:

american powdery mildew or sphere library;

anthracnose;

septoria (white spot);

goblet rust (orange);

columnar rust (yellowish);

reversion (terry) currants;

It is carried by ticks, so it is very important to wage a serious fight with them.

When to spray currants from pests and diseases in the spring: the optimal time for processing shrubs

It is obvious that in different dates various pests and diseases appear. Accordingly, for each phase of currant development there should be its own specifics for its processing. Naturally, it is very difficult to name specific dates, it is much easier to navigate the phases of development (vegetation) of a berry bush in the spring.

So, when exactly in spring and summer should currants be treated for pests and diseases?

By the way! As a rule, in the spring both trees and shrubs are treated for diseases and pests at once, except that grapes are sprayed separately, perhaps even strawberries (garden strawberries).

However, it should be borne in mind that currants begin their vegetation almost earlier than everyone else in the garden.

There is a certain scheme (schedule) for carrying out spring spraying of currants (depending on the stage of vegetation):

Before the kidneys swell (in early spring, immediately after the snow melts);

Early spring spraying eliminates most wintering stages of pests, as well as spores of fungal diseases. For example, during this period, you can use the special preparation "Prophylactin" (insecticide against pests) or "Preparation 30 plus", or prepare a solution of copper or iron sulfate with urea (for diseases and some pests).

You can also manually collect all tick buds, cut off all crooked shoots affected by aphids last year(they have a noticeably curved appearance).

Advice! And so that wintering pests cannot come out of the ground, you can mulch the trunk circle currants with a thick (6-10 cm) layer of peat, rotted sawdust, compost or humus.

During the period kidney swelling(stage "green cone);

Spraying in the “green cone” phase is carried out against various leaf spots currants, such as anthracnose, septoria (white spotting), rust. Alternatively, you can use Bordeaux liquid.

At the same time, you can start spraying against ticks. Suitable drugs (acaricides - anti-mites), such as: Kleschevit, Aktofit, including Thiovit Jet (it is also against powdery mildew).

At the same stage, it is necessary to process from moths and other caterpillars. For example, the drug Inta-C-M, Iskra, Iskra-M, Kinmiks, Aktellik. And if it is already warm enough, then you can use the biological product "Bitoxibacillin".

During the period budding, but before flowering(phase of "rose bud");

After the buds open, it is necessary to repeat the treatment against ticks, moths, other caterpillars and other pests. And also to carry out preventive treatment of currants from powdery mildew(preparations based on copper, such as copper sulphate, Homa, Oxychoma, Skor, Topaz, Thiovit Jet, Colloidal sulfur are also suitable).

After flowering, when small ovaries are formed.

Again, it should be treated against pests (especially aphids - Biotlin, Tanrek, Fitoverm, etc.) and diseases (especially powdery mildew - Topaz, Skor, Thiovit Jet, Colloidal sulfur, and other drugs).

During the period of growth and fruiting, i.e. in summer(before harvesting);

We continue to periodically carry out treatments for pests and diseases, but preferably with biological means, such as Fitosporin, Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, etc. (see separate paragraph "Biopreparations").

How to spray currants in spring

During the preparation of solutions and spraying trees observe safety precautions. If the packaging of the product says that you need to wear special clothes (robe, overalls, raincoat), goggles and a respirator, rubber gloves, then you need to wear it.

Video: spraying safety

Processing should only be in dry and calm weather.

In sunny weather, it is better to refrain from spraying., because, quickly drying out, the drugs become ineffective or do not work at all. Spraying is best done in cloudy, calm weather, but not by rain: after the rain, the twigs are wet, they seem to have a thin “film” of water on them. And spraying is droplets of the solution, which in the same way cover the plant with a thin “film” of drops. If processing is carried out, the concentration of the solution will decrease, and the processing efficiency will decrease.

Spraying is desirable in the morning (after the dew has dried) or late evening (after sunset).
Processing is always done exactly after, unless, of course, you have done it. It also helps to further protect the cut points (ideal if sprinkled with copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid, in other words, if copper is included in the fungicide).

During flowering, in no case should spraying be carried out. currants with chemical and even (just in case) biological insecticides (may harm bees and other pollinators). Another thing is that, if necessary, treatment against diseases can be carried out.

By the way! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money), and new ones (it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

All prepared solutions should be pass through a filter mesh so as not to clog the sprayer.

Suitable for dissolving almost all drugs room temperature water(for vitriol it is desirable to use hot, about + 40-50 degrees).

And if you are using a biological product, then water better to take settled or filtered, i.e. without chlorine.

How to treat currants in the spring from pests and diseases: the best preparations

Before proceeding with the procedure, it is natural that you need to decide (and first find out) how you can process currant bushes in the spring.

Now for the spring spraying of the garden, there are many different means that will effectively help to cope with any pests and diseases. But in order to know exactly when and how to use them best, you need to figure out what their features and differences are.

Note! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money), and new ones (and it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

Important! The instructions for each drug always indicate when (at what time) they need to be processed.

So, for effective spring processing of currants, you will need:

fungicides (drugs to fight diseases);
insecticides (means for combating insect pests);
insectofungicides (complex preparations that act simultaneously against pests and diseases).

Moreover, these funds (fungicides and insecticides) can be:

chemical origin (chemicals);
biological (biological products).

Of course, there are also folk remedies, for example, the same treatment of bushes with boiling water, as well as various herbal solutions and infusions etc. But their efficiency is very, very limited.

Of course, there are now many different fungicidal and insecticidal agents of chemical and biological origin. However, do not forget the folk ways of processing currants. One of such fairly well-known methods of pest and disease control is the early spring treatment of currants with boiling water.

Video: processing currant bushes in early spring with boiling water

Chemicals and Biologicals

Unlike biopreparations, chemicals act much faster and more reliably. In addition, the use of chemicals is often the only way to cure (more precisely, save) a culture from fungal diseases, as well as get rid of annoying pests. For example, if gooseberry moth has strongly multiplied on currants and gooseberries.

Processing currants with chemicals in the spring does not have any negative consequences for the future crop and human health, since after the waiting period all pesticides (especially chemical ones) completely decompose.

TO Of course, this should without fail follow the recommendations for dosage and timing of spraying.

It should be understood that biological preparations and folk remedies are more gentle, which is permissible in the following cases:

with a small number of pests;
at the initial stage of the development of a fungal disease or with a mild infection.

Chemical fungicides

As for preparations suitable for spring spraying of currants against diseases, the following can be used fungicides(means for combating fungal diseases of plants):

Important! For one treatment, you need to choose only one preparation (fungicide), and then use a new one (preferably with another active substance), or alternate.

Bordeaux mixture (3% solution of Bordeaux liquid - before bud break and 1% - in the "rose bud" stage - rust, spotting, anthracnose);

Copper sulfate (contact fungicide);

Abiga Peak ( contact fungicide protective effect based copper oxychloride, against powdery mildew);

Hom ( contact fungicide based copper oxychloride, against powdery mildew);
Oksihom ( contact-systemic fungicide action based copper oxychloride and oxadixyl, against powdery mildew);

By the way! Some believe (partly rightly so) that treating plants with copper-containing preparations is harmful to human health. But copper is by no means the most harmful drug, especially in such doses and at such an early time, when fruiting is still very far away.

In addition, it should be understood that in early spring there are practically no other effective substitutes (except for the use of iron sulfate). Biological preparations at this time are completely ineffective, tk. do not work at low temperatures.

Inkstone;

Advice! About, when, how and why to use iron sulphate, described in detail.

Carbamide (urea);

Usually, urea is used together with copper or iron sulphate, namely, the tank mixture is being prepared.

Thiovit Jet ( contact fungicide based sulfur, against powdery mildew and ticks, spray during the growing season);

Colloidal sulfur ( contact fungicide, against powdery mildew and ticks; spray during the growing season)

Forecast ( systemic fungicide based propiconazole, against powdery mildew, columnar rust, goblet rust, anthracnose, leaf septoria and other diseases; spray during the growing season before flowering and after harvesting.);

Tilt ( systemic fungicide based propiconazole, against powdery mildew, columnar rust, goblet rust, anthracnose, leaf septoria and other diseases; spray during the growing season before flowering and after harvesting);

Forecast and Tilt are complete analogues.

Speed ( systemic fungicide based difenoconazole, against powdery mildew, spotting);

Rayok ( systemic fungicide based difenoconazole, against powdery mildew, spotting);

In fact, Speed \u003d Rayok (its analogue).

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against what diseases), terms, dosages!

Chemical insecticides

As for preparations suitable for spraying currant bushes in spring against pests, the following insecticides (pest control agents) can be used:

Important! For one treatment, you need to choose only one preparation (insecticide), and then use a new one (preferably with a different active ingredient) or alternate.

Active ingredients are listed in parentheses.

Aktara ( Thiamethoxam (Aktara), systemic insecticide of intestinal-contact action, against aphids; spray before flowering);

Confidor and Tanrek can be called analogues, but Confidor has 3.5 times more active ingredient.

Spark "Double Effect" ( Permethrin and Cypermethrin, insecticide against aphids, moths, leafworms, sawflies);

Inta-vir ( cypermethrin, enteric-contact insecticide from currant glass, aphids);
Inta-Ts-M ( cypermethrin and malathion, enteric-contact insecticide against aphids, glass cases, leafworms, sawflies, moths; spray during the growing season);
Herold ( diflubenzuron, enteric-contact insecticide against aphids, currant bud moths, leafworms; spray during the growing season);
Biotlin ( imidacloprid, systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action, against aphids; spray before flowering);

prophylactin ( Vaseline oil and Malathion (Karbofos), an enteric-contact insecticide against wintering stages of pests - suckers, leafworms, scale insects, false shields, ticks, aphids; ideal to process before bud break, in early spring).

Preparation 30 plus(contact insect-acaricide against wintering stages of pests - scale insects, false scale insects, mites, aphids, suckers, moths, mealybugs; spray during dormancy - before bud break, in early spring).

Fufanon ( Malathion (Karbofos),
Aliot ( Malathion (Karbofos), enteric-contact insectoacaricide against currant bud mites, leafworms (during budding), aphids, scale insects, false scales (during the growing season);

Fufanon and Aliot are complete analogues!

Karate Zeon ( lambda cyhalothrin, enteric-contact insecticide against ticks, aphids, leafworms, glass cases);

Kinmix ( Beta-cypermethrin, enteric-contact insecticide from leafworm, aphids, sawfly; spray during the growing season, before and after flowering);

Actellik ( Pirimifos-methyl (Actellik), enteric-contact insecticide for gooseberry moth);

And other broad-spectrum insecticides;

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against which pests), terms, dosages.

Biologicals: fungicides and insecticides

Biological products are created on the basis of living organisms:

mushroom antagonists;
bacteria;
bacterial viruses;

beneficial insects (entomophages and acariphages).

Among biological agents, fungicides, insecticides, and insectofungicides can also be distinguished.

Note! As a rule, almost all biological preparations begin their work only under the condition of an appropriate air temperature (+10 ... +15 degrees), therefore they begin to be used only at the “rose bud” stage (before flowering) and after flowering, while the first and second treatments are necessary carried out with the help of chemicals.

Biologicals fungicidal action(against diseases):

Phytosporin (fungicide, powdery mildew, rust);

Biologicals insecticidal action(against pests):

Aktofit (insecticide, against ticks, aphids);

Interesting! Aktofit is created on the basis of toxins of biological origin.

Bitoxibacillin (from moth, leafworm, gall midge, sawfly, ticks, moths, spray during the growing season, when caterpillars appear);

Lepidocid (from currant leafworm, gooseberry moth, moth, sawfly; spray during the growing season, against each generation of pests);

Fitoverm ( Aversectin C, against aphids, mites, moths, leafworms; spray during the growing season);

Kleshchevit ( Aversectin C, against ticks; spray during the growing season);

Gaupsin (insectofungicide of complex action, against powdery mildew, leaf spot, rust, against aphids, leafworms).

Note! Yes, biologics have their advantages (they are environmentally friendly), but it's worth recognizing that they are not as effective as chemical ones.

Video: biological preparations for protecting plants from diseases and pests

Tank mixes (fungicides + insecticides)

Note! Not all drugs can be mixed. For example, practically nothing can be mixed with Bordeaux liquid and copper oxychloride (it has an alkaline reaction).

The instructions should be written with which drugs they can be combined.

For spring spraying of currants (except for the first, when the buds are still sleeping), you can prepare the following tank mixtures (fungicide + insecticide):

Chemical:

Fast (fungicide) + Aktara (insecticide);
Bayleton (fungicide) + Karate (insecticide);
Tilt or Forecast (fungicide) + almost any insecticide.

Biological:

Aktofit (insecticide against aphids and mites) + Bitoxibacillin (from other insect pests) + Guapsin ( insectofungicide of complex action);
Fitosporin (fungicide) + Bitoxibacillin;
Fitoverm (insecticide) + Bitoxibacillin + Guapsin;
Lepidocid (insecticide) + Bitoxibacillin (insecticide) + Guapsin.

Eradication spraying against diseases and pests

As an option, at the "green cone" stage or even earlier (when the kidneys are completely asleep) you can prepare the following solutions (tank mixes) for spring eradication spraying of currant bushes against diseases and pests.

Let's be honest! Complete eradication of pests will not happen. But those of them that hibernate on the bark or in cracks (for example, the same scale insect), if the solution enters, will suffer significantly.

Therefore, for the complete destruction of pests in the future, it is necessary to use other more serious and modern drugs.

It is desirable to do the processing exactly according to the “green cone”, it is possible even earlier (when the kidneys are completely asleep), but not later.

But! If the leaves have already unfolded, then processing can still be carried out, but with certain restrictions. So, the concentration of solutions should be reduced by 2 times, i.e. either dilute with water 2 times, or reduce the amount of funds used by 2 times.

Recipe for a solution with copper sulphate

Take 300 grams of copper sulfate and first dissolve in 1-1.5 liters hot water(40-50 degrees).

Note! Copper sulfate is not friendly with iron (iron objects), so use wooden and plastic sticks, as well as buckets (the same glass jars will do) to prepare the solution (stir it).

Then pour the resulting concentrated solution into the sprayer, where there are already 8.5-9 liters of water.
Next, pour a full 1-liter jar of urea (carbamide). If it seems to you that this is too high a concentration, then the amount of urea can be reduced to 500-700 grams.

Interesting! Treatment with urea along the "green cone" not only has a positive effect on the number of pests, but also delays flowering by 7-10 days. It is especially important that return frosts have time to pass before flowering.

Important! Laundry and any other solid soap is incompatible with a solution of both iron and copper sulfate (copper and iron simply precipitate). Therefore, it is necessary to use liquid soap, for example, any dishwashing detergent will do.

To enhance the effect of copper sulphate, 30-50 ml of 10% ammonia (ammonia) should be added to the solution.
Carry out eradicating spraying of shrubs.

The recipe for a solution with iron sulphate

First, dissolve 20-30 grams in 1-1.5 liters of hot water citric acid.

By the way! Iron sulfate, when dissolved in water, oxidizes quite quickly (2-valent iron becomes 3-valent). To prevent this from happening, you need to add some kind of complexing agent to the solution (so to speak, chelate ferrous sulfate), for example, the same citric acid.

Next, add 500 grams of iron sulfate to the resulting citric acid solution.

Then you need to pour the resulting solution into the sprayer, where there are already 8.5-9 liters of water.
Further, everything is similar to the previous recipe: add a full 1-liter jar of urea (urea) or 500-700 grams to the solution.
Add 200-250 ml liquid soap or dishwashing liquid.
Optionally, you can also add humates (according to the instructions).
Mix everything thoroughly and shake.
Carry out the eradication treatment of shrubs, as well as mosses in the garden (on the lawn), stones, foundations.

Video: eradicating the garden in the spring from pests and diseases

Folk remedies

It should be understood that the processing of currants with such "folk remedies" has a very limited effectiveness.

If the defeat is strong, then you can not even try. It is better to try at least special biological agents

In general, the most popular folk remedies for spraying currants in the spring from diseases and pests are:

Advice! After preparation, all solutions must be strain.

Initially, it is very convenient to dissolve or infuse in a smaller amount of water, and immediately before spraying, bring it to the recommended volume (10 liters).

From pests

Garlic infusion(300-500 grams of crushed cloves per 10 liters of hot water, let stand for 24 hours). Can be used in combat with aphids, caterpillars and larvae of younger ages(according to some reports, it helps and with kidney mite).

And in the infusion, you can add birch tar (4-6 drops per 10 liters) and iodine (10 ml per 10 liters), which also help against powdery mildew.

Note! Garlic infusion is useless if the caterpillars are already inside the fruit. Plants need to be treated early. And generally speaking the infusion has, rather, a deterrent effect: with its pungent odor, it disorientates pests.

Tobacco infusion(400 g of dry tobacco leaves per 10 liters of hot water, let stand for 48 hours, dilute again 1 to 1 with water and add 40 grams of soap per 10 liters of solution). The agent must be effective against bud mites, aphids, sawflies, moths.

Similarly, you can use tobacco dust, immediately spraying it on a shrub or pre-preparing a solution.

Infusion of celandine(3-4 kg of grass or 1 kg of dry celandine per 10 liters of hot water, let stand for 36 hours). Should be effective against glassware, moths, aphids.
Mustard infusion(200 grams per 10 liter of water, let stand 48 hours, dilute 1 to 5 with water). If desired, so that the solution lingers (sticks) more on the shrub - 40 grams of soap should be added per 10 liters. Should be effective against glassboxes, moths, sawflies and other pests.

Infusion of onion peel(200 grams of husk per 10 liters of water, leave for 12-24 hours), especially effective against aphids.
Decoction of tomato leaves(3 kg of fresh crushed parts of stems, stepsons, leaves or 1 kg of dry tops per 10 liters of water, let stand for 3-4 hours, then boil for 30 minutes, dilute 1 to 4 with water). Should be effective against gall midges, sawfly.
Decoction of tansy(1 kg of fresh tansy herb per 10 liters of water, boil for 2 hours, add 40 grams of soap for better adhesion). Should be effective against glassware and flames.

By the way! Also, to scare away pests, you can insert directly into the crown of bushes various strong-smelling plants, for example, elderberry (preferably flowering), tops and stepchildren of tomatoes, cut garlic, marigolds (they can generally be planted nearby).

And do not forget to manually cut off the affected shoots and leaves.

From diseases (mainly from powdery mildew)

Infusion of rotten hay(Fill a 10-liter bucket 1/3 full with hay, fill with water, let stand 3 days, then dilute 1 to 3 with water). Should be effective from powdery mildew.
Iodine solution(1 ml per 1 liter of water). Again, suitable for fighting powdery mildew.

Decoction or infusion of wood ash(400 grams of ash per 3 liters of water, boil for 3-5 minutes, and then bring the volume to 10 liters, or just immediately pour hot water and let stand 24-48 hours). Also, for better adhesion, you can add soap (40 grams per 10 liters).

In theory, this solution should protect the bushes both from diseases ( powdery mildew), and from pests (aphids, moths and sawflies).

Video: fighting currant diseases and pests without chemicals using wood ash solution

Whey and sour milk also helps with powdery mildew.

Video: natural super remedy (milk or curd whey) for powdery mildew on currants

soap solution(40-50 grams of grated laundry soap per 10 liters of water should first be dissolved in hot water, and then topped up cold water, then baking soda can be added to the solution - 40-50 grams).

In theory, by creating an alkaline environment, this solution should protect the bushes from both diseases (powdery mildew) and pests (aphids).

Thus, the spring treatment of currants from pests and diseases is one of the main measures for the care of shrubs in the spring. Do not neglect this by no means complicated agricultural technique, because its timely and correct implementation will provide reliable protection for the berry plant, which will allow you to get a rich harvest.

Video: protecting currants in the spring from pests and diseases

In contact with

Currant - one or a couple of bushes of this berry crop is necessarily present on any garden plot. It occupies an honorable second place after strawberries in terms of cultivation area. Of course, the currant is not so sweet, it is difficult to call it a dessert culture, but no one will refuse a jar of jam in the fierce winter cold. So that the currant does not deprive you of a high yield in the summer, it is necessary now, in the spring, to start taking care of this crop. Let's talk about spring care for currants according to all the rules.

Spring currant. © gardenerdy

General features of spring blackcurrant care

Blackcurrant care is not difficult, and spring events also do not promise the summer resident hard physical labor or high material costs. All you need is to carefully remove all the covers if you are a resident of the northern region; water the plant if there was little snow or you are a resident of the southern region, where melt water evaporates quickly; loosen the soil more often so that a soil crust does not form and the soil “breathes”; mulch the surface, which will protect against weeds and become food, and also save the roots in frost and moisture from evaporation, preventing the formation of a soil crust. You should also carry out sanitary pruning, protect the currants from pests and diseases, feed the bushes with a certain amount of fertilizer, depending on their age. It is possible to propagate currants in the spring - we will also talk about this.

It is important to start all types of work with currants when the snow has already melted, the soil does not “champ” underfoot and you can safely move along it, and the air temperature fluctuates at around 4-6 degrees above zero.

We remove winter shelters from currants

As soon as it gets warmer and daytime temperatures equal to nighttime ones, that is, it will be around zero day and night, a little colder or a little warmer, it is necessary to start removing shelters as soon as possible. In general, the currant is quite winter-hardy and does not need shelter, especially when there is a lot of snow and it covers the bushes “with its head”, but in the harsh northern regions, the currant often freezes, and the cold can come to the soil that is not yet covered with snow, so shelter for currant still does not hurt.

Usually, sawdust is poured into the base of the bush to insulate the roots, and something like a tent made of non-woven covering material is placed on top. So, in the spring you need to remove all this, for a day shading the bush on the south side and securing the shading with iron clips so that the covering material does not blow away, and the bush gets used to both the sun and the open air. The next day, sawdust at the base of the bush needs to be removed, and if there is snow under them, then remove it too so that the soil and roots warm up faster and the bush “wakes up”. Then you should remove the shading itself, it is no longer required.

We carry out spring sanitary pruning of currants

As soon as the shelter was removed, without postponing for tomorrow, carefully inspect the bush and carry out a sanitary pruning. First of all, you need to remove all broken shoots, dry shoots, very thin ones (thinner than a simple pencil) and those shoots that grow in the center of the bush, which in the future will certainly lead to its thickening and cause the transition of fruiting to the periphery of the crown of the currant bush, reducing and yield, and quality of berries. Remove branches older than four years of age, they are usually darker, there is little sense from them, and they spend a lot of nutrients on themselves.

When pruning, always inspect the core of the shoot, if it is light green, then everything is in order, but if it is dark, as if rotten, then this is the result of the vital activity of the larvae of either the goldfish or the glass, and this is bad. In addition to the fact that such shoots need to be urgently burned outside the site, a few more shoots should be cut off: if exactly the same damage appears on half of the shoots, then your bush may be fatally infected with these pests and there will be no sense from it, it is better to uproot and plant such a bush new, but not in its place, but retreating from the former place by two or three meters. The place where the bush affected by the goldfish or glass case grew must be treated with any insecticide permitted this season, for example, Lepidocide, strictly following the instructions on the package.

By the way, if the bush is alive and well, and after pruning you still have shoots, then you can try to propagate them.

Spring breeding currant

It is as easy to propagate currants in spring as in autumn, only you will have to monitor the plantings more often - not allowing the soil to dry out, but also not allowing it to become waterlogged. To propagate currants in the spring, the shoots remaining from pruning must be cut into pieces with a length and thickness approximately like a simple pencil. Next, they should be placed in a solution of Epin, Heteroauxin or another growth stimulant for a day, after reading the instructions for diluting this drug in advance, and while they are soaking, prepare a bed. The soil in the garden needs to be leveled, all weeds removed, and a tablespoon of nitroammophoska added to square meter and plant cuttings - blackcurrant cuttings at an angle of 45 degrees towards the north, so that the south side is illuminated by the sun, and cuttings of “colored” currant are strictly vertical, so that three or four buds remain on the surface. In the future, a new bush is formed from each shoot, retaining all parental characteristics.

Soil loosening and removal of crop residues

After pruning and propagation of currants, you can once again inspect the plants and bite zones. All remaining debris from the filing of shoots, old leaves, hanging or scattered fruits in the bite zone must be collected and burned. Firstly, it is not beautiful, and secondly, it can harm plants, because a fungal infection or pests can settle on parts of shoots or fruits that begin to actively rot, which, as they develop, will spread to currants.

When the trunk circle is cleared, it is advisable to loosen the soil and loosen it every 10-12 days to ensure soil air exchange and prevent the formation of a soil crust on its surface.

Watering currants in spring

Any plant needs moisture, but currants sometimes have more than enough moisture from melting snow, so its watering is relevant only for the southern regions, where snow, and, accordingly, moisture evaporates very quickly under the rays of the burning sun. Watering young currant bushes under the age of three years is better with a bucket of water every week, but older ones can be enriched with a double rate of water. Remember: it is much better to use not chlorinated water from the tap, but soft water, that is, melted water or rainwater.

In no case should the soil be poured with water, from excessive moisture, the roots of the currant may begin to rot, especially the “colored” currant suffers from this, so water it moderately and as needed.

Currant weed control

Weeds are a very important component of currant care in the spring, because everyone knows that this is a shrub, not a tree, therefore root system currant is located close to the soil surface and is slightly deeper than the location of the root system of weeds, with the exception of the "color" currant, in which the root system is more pronounced in the core part, so it tolerates clogging more easily. It is better to remove weeds immediately after they appear, the sooner you do this, the better. It's great if you can combine weed removal with watering (after watering) or if you can remove weeds after rain. Pulling out weeds, if there are few currant bushes on your site, you can manually, and if there are more than a dozen plants, then it is better to use a hoe for this, while trying to deepen it into the soil a couple of centimeters in order to cut off not so much the leaf mass of the weed, but also part of it underground stem.

Cleaning and improving the structure of the soil in the zone of the currant bush. © gardeners world

Spring fertilization for currants

Spring is a great time to enrich the soil occupied by currants with fertilizers. In the spring, you can and should use complex fertilizers containing all the necessary elements. For example, an excellent fertilizer that has proven itself very well in experimental plantations of various varieties of currants is nitroammofoska. It can be applied dry in the spring. For a bush over three years old, it is permissible to use a matchbox of nitroammophoska without a pea, for younger plants - half matchbox. The order of application is as follows: first, we rid the trunk circle, one and a half meters in diameter, from weeds, then loosen the soil to a depth of a couple of centimeters, pour a bucket of water, sprinkle the fertilizer evenly and plant the fertilizer into the soil with the back of the rake. Next, you can carry out mulching.

Spring soil mulching

After weeding, watering, loosening and fertilizing, it's time to mulch the soil surface in the currant bite zone. It is best to use humus for this - it enriches the soil with nutrition, retains moisture and prevents it from evaporating, inhibits the growth of weeds and even protects the roots from sudden cold snaps, if any. It is better not to use sawdust, they can acidify the soil, but peat cannot be used at all as mulch for currants - it can lead to severe acidification. A layer of mulch as humus should be equal to a couple of centimeters.

Prevention and control of diseases and pests on currants in spring

Of the preventive measures, the simplest is watering the bushes with boiling water, but in order not to burn the plants, it is better to boil the kettle at home, pour boiling water into a watering can and water the bush well with hot water (not boiling water). They say that it helps against pests and ovipositors hiding in secluded corners.

From a fungal infection, preventive treatments with copper-containing preparations help, this is 2% Bordeaux liquid, 2.5% copper sulfate, HOM, OxyHOM, and so on.

You can also use approved chemicals in strict accordance with the instructions on the package; so, from powdery mildew, Thiovit Jet® (80%) will help, from the sphere library - Topaz. If, when examining the bushes, you notice that a number of buds are very swollen, this means that a bud mite has settled in them. With a small number of such buds, no more than 20%, you can simply cut them off and burn them, and if there are more than half of the buds, then it is better to treat the bushes with Fitoverm (0.2%); from the aphids, which immediately appear on only blossoming leaves, Antitlin will help, from the leaflet - Kinmiks, you can try to cope with Bitoxibacillin treatments with moths and moths.

The subtleties of spring care for "colored" currants

Colored currant is less demanding on the presence of moisture in the soil, it is more drought-resistant, so it can be watered in spring twice as rarely or with the same intensity, but halving the volume of irrigation water.

Read more about the features of colored currants in the material:

Loosening of colored currants due to the deeper location of the roots can be carried out to a depth of 4-5 centimeters, and for a greater effect, it is still better to apply fertilizers dissolved in water, even nitroammophoska, under such currants.

With the necessary spring transplantation of “colored” currants, consider the more pivotal nature of the location of the roots, so try to dig a hole twice as deep.

These simple spring tricks will allow you to get high yields of currants.

The arrival of spring means not only warmth, but also the beginning of work in the garden. Moreover, the earlier work is started, the better the harvest will be. Currant bushes are especially in need of proper spring care. In this article, care for currants in the spring will be discussed in detail and you will learn why it is of great importance.

What is spring care for?

Many people think that gardening only begins when the weather is nice and warm and it's time to plant the seeds. But this is a delusion, because in the garden before the first buds bloom, you need to have time to do a lot. Otherwise, problems with insect invasion, plant diseases and, as a result, a decrease in yield may begin in the summer.

Currants of any variety, like all garden crops, need proper and timely care. Spring care for black and red currants is carried out with the aim of:

In order to achieve the above goals, caring for currants in early spring involves the following procedures:

pruning branches;
fertilizer application;
spraying bushes.

Thanks to such manipulations, care for the bushes during the summer will be minimal, and the harvest will be plentiful.

Watering and soil care

After garbage collection, the near-trunk circle should be loosened and weeds that have already hatched should be removed. This culture does not tolerate such a neighborhood.

Frequent loosening allows you to achieve good drainage of the earth. This procedure is often carried out by deep weeding. You can use a shovel for this. Digging the soil should be carried out to a depth of no more than 15-20 cm. garden tools you need to be very careful, since the root system of plants within the near-stem circle can come close to the surface of the earth. Therefore, loosening and digging the roots can be easily damaged. This will lead to a drop in the crop or even the death of the shrub.

Currant is a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, care must be taken to ensure that the soil around it is moist. To do this, the trunk circle is mulched with mowed grass, compost, rotted manure or humus. Using this agrotechnical technique, you can reduce the amount of loosening, weeding and watering.

In order to provide yourself with a good currant crop in the future, the bushes should be watered regularly in the spring. In this case, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

watering currants in the spring is carried out once a week;
under one plant you need to pour about three liters of water at a time. It is not recommended to pour more, as excess moisture can provoke rotting of the root system;
for irrigation, only settled water, which has room temperature, should be used.

Caring for currants in the spring includes not only watering and loosening the soil, but also pruning with top dressing. So, it will bear fruit much better than bushes left unattended.

Pruning currant bushes

After the snow has melted, the currant bushes are pruned. It is necessary to have time to carry out this procedure before the opening of the kidneys. If the winter was harsh, then pruning can be done a little later.

Pruning should begin after the leaves have blossomed. In this case, the shoots that died as a result severe frosts can be easily distinguished from healthy and strong.

Blackcurrants are known to need more pruning in spring than red varieties. This is due to the fact that black varieties have strong shoot formation in spring. At the same time, root shoots are actively growing. Therefore, in terms of pruning, blackcurrants need more careful care to prevent pulling nutrients to infertile shoots.

Proper pruning allows you to:

strengthen branching;
stimulate growth in annual shoots that have formed on perennial branches;
eliminate the thickening of the bush and form the correct crown.

All these moments ultimately lead to an increase in the quality and quantity of the crop. After pruning, the berries become noticeably larger and sweeter. Although the taste of the fruit still remains within the framework dictated by the taste characteristics of the variety.

When pruning currant bushes, it must be remembered that fruit clusters are formed on shoots that are 3-4 years old. Therefore, after this period has passed, you may encounter a clear decrease in the number of ripening berries. With the help of spring pruning, such bushes can be rejuvenated by stimulating them to bear fruit by removing old and already fruiting branches. This ensures the growth of new root shoots. They are fruitful. Therefore, after spring pruning, an increase in yield can be expected.

In the first year after the implementation of the procedure for planting seedlings, young plants are not pruned. This is due to the fact that these bushes will already have excellent fruiting, and the old branches on them have not yet formed. Active pruning action should be taken approximately 4-5 years after planting (for black varieties) and 6-8 years (for red varieties). Thanks to the cutting of unnecessary branches, the fruiting of this crop (depending on the variety) will continue for 15-25 years.

The whole point of pruning is to cut off unproductive and old branches, as well as stimulate the formation of new fruitful shoots. When removed on shoots, only a couple of buds should be left. From them, after a while, new branches appear. Old branches can be distinguished from young ones by the color of the wood. Their bark is darker.

During pruning, you should leave a couple of strong and healthy basal shoots located close enough to each other. They are cut off from above by 1/3, and all other branches are removed at their base. As a result, the bush turns out to form the correct crown.

With a strong infection, the plant will have to be burned. At the initial stage of infection, you can use folk way struggle - scald the bushes with boiling water. The plant itself in this case will not suffer, but even, on the contrary, will “wake up” after the winter.

Many gardeners, when caring for blackcurrants in the spring, often use various chemicals for preventive spraying of bushes (for example, Chlorophos, Karbofos and others). When using them, you should adhere to the desired concentration of the solution, as well as the timing of spraying.

Spraying plants with chemicals must be carried out before the buds swell. Otherwise, the procedure will not help get rid of the tick.

To prevent powdery mildew, currants are sprayed with Fundazol in the spring (15 ml of the drug should be diluted in 10 liters of water). A solution of copper sulfate is also being prepared. Dissolve 100 g of powder in 10 liters of water. You need to spray not only plants, but also the ground around them. This is done because many insects go into the ground for the winter.

From folk remedies, except for boiling water, for preventive spraying of currant bushes, you can use tinctures prepared from the following plants:

tobacco. It mixes with the ashes;
celandine;
onion peel;
dandelion;
garlic.

Also, disinfecting tinctures can be prepared using mustard powder or a soda solution. Such tinctures, despite the ease of preparation, will be no less effective than chemicals. However, if their use does not bring the desired result, without chemicals not enough.

Top dressing in the spring

An important point spring care for red and black currants in the spring is fertilization. Usually this procedure is carried out for 2-3 years after planting the bushes in a permanent place of growth. But there is an exception here, which concerns the cultivation of crops on depleted soils. In this case, the fertilizer that was placed at the bottom of the planting hole may not be enough for such a long period of time. Black varieties of culture are especially sensitive to timely feeding.

In the spring, nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be applied under the root of each bush. Nitrogen is the element that stimulates plant growth and development. Therefore, after winter, such fertilizers should be used.

Fertilizers are applied according to the following scheme:

the first time - at the time of blooming on the branches of the kidneys. Ammonium nitrate should be used (30 g in a ten-liter bucket of water);
the second time - during the period when berries begin to be tied on the bushes. Here you need to use mineral fertilizers which contain potassium and phosphorus. As an alternative, it is allowed to use organic top dressings that were prepared by oneself (humic fertilizers or ash).

Some gardeners carry out foliar feeding. But it should be noted that only experienced gardeners can carry out such top dressing. During the flowering period, the bushes can be sprayed with a composition that is prepared from boric acid. To prepare the desired solution, 0.5 teaspoons of boric acid should be dissolved in 10 liters of warm water (temperature not higher than 40 degrees). A properly prepared do-it-yourself solution can stimulate the growth of shoots in plants, as well as increase the yield by about 2-3 times.

After the first ovaries appear, the currants are sprayed with a mixture prepared from superphosphate (150 g) and urea (60 g). Both components are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Such spraying will make the bushes healthy and strong, as well as significantly improve the taste characteristics of the fruit.

When fertilizing currants, it is important to choose the right type of fertilizer, as well as the timing for their application. Otherwise, an excess of certain substances in the soil can lead to unforeseen consequences. Saplings and young plants should be especially carefully fed.

It should be noted that experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing currants in the spring with the same fertilizers that were placed at the bottom of the planting pit when planting. In addition, every five years it is necessary to measure the pH level of the soil. If this indicator does not meet the requirements of currants, ash must be added to the ground or liming should be carried out.

Now you know how to care for currants in spring. Such care, if performed correctly, will not take much effort, but it will allow you to achieve abundant fruiting from the bushes.

Video “How to prune berry bushes in spring”

In this video, an expert will talk about how to properly prune berry bushes in the spring.

Blackcurrant grows in every garden. But we do not always harvest the crop that the planted variety is capable of. Often in the gardens you can see thickened bushes affected by diseases and pests. Everyone in our family loves blackcurrants. In order for the bushes to be healthy, the berries are large and tasty, and caring for the bushes does not take much time, I made a simplified “action plan” for myself.

Early spring (end of March - April). The snow has already completely or partially melted, and the currant buds have not yet swollen

top dressing. Nitrogen is needed for good leaf development. We pour ready-made mixtures on the ground spring fertilizer for berry bushes (with nitrogen) on moistened ground and lightly sprinkle with soil on top. If it is not possible, then you can not fertilize the bushes.

pruning. We carry out pruning if this work was not carried out at the end of autumn. We remove the frozen ends of the shoots. Cut out dry, weak and broken branches. From the cut branches we collect the first crop of currants: elongated buds and fragrant shoots cut into small pieces. They can be folded into a glass jar, closed with a lid and put in the refrigerator, so that they can then be added to the teapot when brewing black tea.

Pests. All round buds on the branches are collected and burned. We rake and burn or put the leaves that have fallen in late autumn into a humus container. Some gardeners pour boiling water over the bushes, which is poured into metal watering cans.

Mid-spring (late April - early May). Black currant buds swell, spring frosts are possible

top dressing. We introduce nitrogen (along the edges of the crown of the bush), if this has not been done before. Can be diluted urea(1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or ammonium nitrate(2 tbsp. per 10 liters of water) and immediately sprinkle the soil around the irrigation site with a solution. After weeding, pour humus or loose compost under the bushes.

Landing. This best time for planting seedlings.

Pests. In old gardens, it is desirable to spray the bushes with a 3-5% solution of iron sulfate (against kidney moths, mealybugs, etc.). From the kidney tick we use the drug " Kleshchevit», « Fitoverm" or " Kiovit Jet”(from mites and powdery mildew).

End of Spring (May)

top dressing. From this time until the fall, we will feed blackcurrants with slightly dried potato peels, in which there is a lot of starch. We bury them in shallow grooves dug in the ground in those places above which the ends of the branches are located. It is better to plant food potato or corn in the soil. starch. Foliar top dressing with microelements is useful (ready-made formulations, potassium permanganate, boric acid). Water regularly, especially in dry weather.

Weeding. This is the time of active growth of weeds. . Along the way, loosen the soil so as not to damage the surface roots.

Pests. We carefully examine the bushes of blackcurrant. If there is a threat of damage by a moth, spraying the bushes with a weak solution helps. nicotine sulfate with green or laundry soap. Be sure to carry out a manual collection of green and brown berries affected by the moth.

Summer (before harvest)

top dressing. Once every two weeks, we water the ground under the bushes (closer to the edge of the crown) with a diluted infusion of grass, manure or compost. We alternate with backfilling and incorporation of wood ash into the soil.

Watering. Be sure to carry out one plentiful watering. In dry weather, regularly water the blackcurrant bushes.

Pests. With the mass appearance of caterpillars, urgent measures must be taken. Manual collection of the pest or plant infusions is unlikely to help save blackcurrant foliage. You have to use " spark". It is better to take a drug of directed action. For example, " Spark from caterpillars» (1 ml per 10 liters of water). We regularly inspect the bushes, destroy the rest of the pests. Cut out all dead branches.

We carefully inspect all the bushes in order to collect diseased and pest-affected berries and leaves, and then destroy them

When powdery mildew appears, spray the foliage with soda ash. Some gardeners use a weak solution of any cheap laundry detergent. There is a folk way: spray a bush with a dilute infusion of manure (mullein) with a broom. It is said that in this way it is possible to avoid the development of powdery mildew.

Harvesting

top dressing. Sprinkle under each bush wood ash and plant it in the soil.

Pests. We destroy nests of moths and diseased berries . Be sure to cut off the tips of those shoots that are affected by powdery mildew.

Old bushes are often affected by moth

We collect ripe berries.

After picking berries

top dressing. Flower buds are laid on next year, therefore, black currants need to be fed with phosphorus and potassium. You can take potassium sulfate and superphosphate. In the first days of August we feed potassium sulfate(1 tablespoon per 10 liters of warm water), and after two weeks double superphosphate(1 tablespoon per 10 liters of hot water, insist for a day). We moisten the soil first. For irrigation with fertilizer solutions, you can make a shallow groove along the crown projection line, which we then fill up, and then we mulch the soil with compost or humus.

pruning. It is necessary to regularly cut off the tops of the shoots that are crumpled and powdered with powdery mildew, remove frail young shoots growing in the center of the bush. They only thicken the bush.

Crumpled gooseberry aphids blackcurrant leaves

At the end of August, we pinch the ends of the blackcurrant branches, which contributes to the maturation of the wood and reduces the risk of powdery mildew for the next year. It is better to remove the old branches lying on the ground. Be sure to cut and burn all drying branches, because. the probability of a currant glass case is high. Remember that too strong summer preventive pruning weakens the bush.

Mandatory watering and weeding the soil under the blackcurrant bushes.

Pests. In places where the kidney mite is distributed, we spray it with the preparation " Kleshchevit"(1 ampoule per 2 liters of water). It can be replaced with Fitoverm».

Autumn

top dressing. It is useful to apply potash and phosphorus fertilizers. You can take ready-made mixtures for autumn feeding of berry bushes or superphosphate(100 g per adult bush) and potassium chloride(30 g per adult bush). After dumping the bulk of the foliage, be sure to powder the soil under the woody bushes. ash, we pour fresh fertile soil or compost under each bush with a layer of 10 - 15 cm.

pruning. We cut off the old, twisted, damaged and thickening bush branches. It is advisable to shorten the tops of the shoots . After that, you need to immediately burn all the cut branches.

Pests. Be sure to remove all round swollen buds with currant mites. Sometimes it is necessary to cut branches that are heavily infected with it. Fallen leaves are definitely collected.

Landing. In the second decade of September, we plant layers detached from the mother plant in a permanent place. We plant seedlings (grown from cuttings and purchased), trying not to damage the roots. For warming, add loose compost to them. In the first decade of October, we continue to propagate blackcurrants, planting in fertile soil new cuttings for rooting.

Be sure to carry out autumn moisture-charging watering. After leaf fall, we tighten loose bushes with a strong rope and put bars or boards under some branches or build wooden frame. Without this, a sprawling bush can be crushed by a snowdrift or lose some of the branches by spring.

Winter

At the very beginning of winter, we add as much snow as possible to the bushes. In winter, it happens that frosty days are replaced by thaws. In snowy winters, this leads to blackcurrant breakage. We have to remove part of the snow from heavy snowdrifts, under which there are bushes. After the weakening of frost at the end of winter, you can start harvesting cuttings for spring planting. They are stored in the snow or dug in damp sand and left in a cool place.

(function(w, d, n, s, t) ( w[n] = w[n] || ; w[n].push(function() ( Ya.Context.AdvManager.render(( blockId: "RA -143469-1", renderTo: "yandex_rtb_R-A-143469-1", async: true )); )); t = d.getElementsByTagName("script"); s = d.createElement("script"); s .type = "text/javascript"; s.src = "//an.yandex.ru/system/context.js"; s.async = true; t.parentNode.insertBefore(s, t); ))(this , this.document, "yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");

After a cold winter, summer residents resume caring for their garden. Do you grow berry crops and are you wondering how to cut currants in spring? Indeed, caring for these shrubs in this period is no less important than, for example, in the fall.

Spring care prepares currants for fruiting. If you want your berry grower to bring a bountiful harvest and do it regularly, the question is: “How to prune currants in the spring?” - will be very relevant. Caring for a shrub is not difficult, but it is imperative to take the necessary measures and adhere to certain rules.

Why do it?

If care is growing on your site in the spring, it will bring a bountiful harvest. Pruning causes strong growth of shoots in the underground part of the bush. Such processes are called basal, zero or replacement shoots. After pruning, the branching and growth of annual shoots growing on perennial branches is enhanced, the thickening of the bush is prevented, as a result, the size of the berries increases.

Annual spring pruning of currant branches will help form a bush and more. This procedure guarantees the harvest. The fact is that this shrub has a peculiarity: basically, the crop is formed on branches of three to four years of age. When this time passes, crops are sharply reduced. Timely pruning of branches provides an increase in fruit-bearing wood for currants - that is, new basal shoots appear.

sanitary measure

Caring for currants in early spring also includes sanitary measures. Pruning is one of them. If there is no appropriate care, the growths of the currant bush will be sick and weak. Accumulation of harmful insects is possible, which can subsequently lead to the death of the plant itself.

To begin with, you should remember the basic rule: this berry should be carried out in early spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed on the branches and sap flow has not begun.

If a currant seedling has been planted recently, its shoots should be shortened in order to contribute to its bushiness. Pruning is done so that each seedling has a couple of buds left. Then in the fall, the currants will have three or four new shoots. If the growth of the seedling is very weak, the shoots should be shortened more strongly, in some cases it should be cut almost to the base, leaving only a stump. Now you know how to cut currants in spring. However, her care does not end there. The shrub continues to grow.

A year later, pruning is again included in the care of currants. first of all, the so-called zero, young shoots are removed. As a result of such actions, four or five of the strongest branches remain on the plant, forming the basis of the bush. It is also necessary to cut off the tops of young shoots on branches, while leaving two or three buds on them. Thanks to this pinching, the so-called fruitlets will form - special fruit branches that grow on old shoots.

young shrub care

Continuing the topic “How to cut currants in spring”, it is worth noting that when the berry grower is three to four years old, the gardener should act in a similar way. Again, you should remove the extra zero shoots, leaving only five or six of the most powerful and strong branches. In addition, in the densest places of the shrub, thin and diseased branches should be cut. If this is not done, weak new branches will grow, which will certainly affect the quantity and quality of the future crop. Be sure to pinch the tops of annual shoots.

Shoots of two or three years of age must be cut off, while leaving a couple of buds. This will stimulate the appearance of lateral fruit-bearing shoots. The correctness of the spring annual pruning of currants is checked as follows: on any bush aged from one year to six years, about 15-20 strong and healthy branches should be left.

Blackcurrant needs pruning more than other shrubs and reacts very quickly to it. However, caring for currants in early spring should take into account the characteristics of fruiting and growth of the berry. During the first year of life, as a rule, the basal shoot does not branch out. But next spring, the shoot begins to grow actively, but at the same time bears fruit very weakly. In the third or fourth year, this shoot turns into a strong perennial branch with lateral branches. As long as the annual growth is strong enough, flower buds hatch and are laid along the entire shoot. They form brushes with full-bodied large berries. The most fruitful blackcurrants have three- and four-year-old branches.

How to care for currant bushes that are more than five years old

In the fifth or sixth year, the root branch still bears some fruit, but the growth is greatly reduced, amounting to about 3-5 cm. At the weakened ends of the skeletal branches, perennial fruit branches (ringlets and fruitlets) with shortened shoots appear. Quite numerous short brushes with small berries are formed on them.

Similar fruits in blackcurrant are short-lived, after one or two years of fruiting they die off. Their growth is also very weak, and the yield of branches after reaching the age of six drops significantly. Consequently, largest harvest collected from the periphery of the bush.

The above method answers the question: “How to prune blackcurrants?”

When buying new currant bushes, the gardener does not always know what kind of variety it is, what taste the berries will have, what size. If you have a blackcurrant on your site, to find out, you can leave a couple of shoots without pruning. Next summer there will be a few single brushes with berries.

After two or three years, only 3-4 conveniently located and well-developed annual shoots should be left. All the rest must be cut at the base of the bush. First, remove the weak, diseased and thickened. At the same time, old branches are cut out if they are damaged by pests or poorly developed. If the basal shoots form a bush poorly, their growth can be stimulated by cutting off one or two two- to three-year-old branches, even if they bear fruit. The basic rule of pruning is to cut off the branches at the very base.

Growth of the current year

For a gardener, the growth of the current year is the main indicator that it is time to prune. If the shoots are weak and small (about 10 cm), you should go down the branch to the place where a strong top or many fruits grow. Now to this place you need to cut off the top of the branch. The growth of the previous year affects the future harvest, it is on it that blackcurrant bears fruit. Leaving in the spring begins with an inspection of the branches: the fruiting part will be much lighter than the rest of the branches.

Difference between old and young stem

Old stems have gray bark, and there are practically no berries on the old shoot. This is especially noticeable in the spring: there are no flower brushes on the "older" shoots. You can try to consider the rings on the branches - these are indicators of the number of years. If the branches are older than five or six years, it is advisable to remove them, otherwise the yield of the bush will fall.

Rejuvenate an old bush. How to do it right

It should be noted right away that if the shrub is already more than 21-25 years old, it should be uprooted and burned. Here, no operations can help. However, if the bush is 15-18 years old, it can be cut to the base by about a third. When replacement shoots appear, all but the three strongest should be cut out. The next year, cut another third of the oldest branches and again leave three new replacement shoots. And already in the third year, the remaining old stems are cut out. It is undesirable to cut off the entire bush at once, although in exceptional cases it is possible.

If you have not only a black berry growing on your plot, but also its red and white “sisters”, you should know that the options for pruning such shrubs are somewhat different.

We have already considered how to prune in spring. However, red currants also need care in spring. This shrub has some differences in pruning. Let's consider them in more detail.

In general, the cutting technology is similar. However, the red "relative" does not pinch the tops of the branches. In this shrub, fruiting buds are located precisely on the apical parts of the branches of two and three years of age.