A warm attic is not only a place to store inventory, but also a 20% reduction in heat loss at home! Do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house will save a lot of money, especially since the whole process does not require special building skills.
Warm and moist air from the lower floors of the house, according to the laws of thermodynamics, rises. From the correct insulation of the attic will depend on whether all the heat goes outside, or stays in the house. Hydro and vapor barrier films will help to solve the problem with excess moisture.
First of all, you should decide on the further operation of the attic. If you plan to make it heated, you do not need to insulate the attic partition, as well as organize vapor barrier from the lower floors. In this case, it is necessary to insulate only the roof.
Roofing cake from inside to outside will look like this:
- vapor barrier - a vapor barrier film for rooms with forced ventilation or a vapor barrier membrane with a minimum vapor permeability to remove excess steam from the room;
- insulation - can be anything, but with vapor permeability higher than vapor barrier;
- waterproofing - a simple waterproof film for non-hygroscopic insulation or a windproof film with one-way vapor permeability for moisture-accumulating insulation.
If the attic is non-residential, it is necessary to insulate the attic floor itself. To reduce the level of humidity in the house, do not use impervious films and insulation, allowing moisture to evaporate through the attic. And so that moisture does not spoil the rafters, condensing on the inside, you need to choose anti-condensate waterproofing for metal roofs and ensure good ventilation of the cold attic.
Private construction is increasingly characterized by the use of mineral wool rolls or basalt slabs. All thanks to:
- simple installation - due to different densities, mineral wool can be wrapped around pipes, rolled out on the floor or installed in a wall frame;
- high vapor permeability - steam-saturated air calmly passes through the mineral insulation, without lingering in it and providing natural ventilation at home;
- good sound insulation - dense basalt slabs perfectly muffle sounds;
- accessibility - you can buy mineral wool at any hardware store, and the variability of shapes and sizes will allow you to choose a heater for any need.
There are also disadvantages - mineral wool loses its properties when wet, therefore, a dew point should not be allowed to appear in the insulation and moisture can be unhindered from evaporating from the thickness of the plates and mats.
Foam insulation is also quite popular, because it:
- relatively inexpensive;
- easy to install;
- does not lose properties when wet;
- has low thermal conductivity.
But due to the lack of vapor permeability, houses insulated with polystyrene foam get the effect of a greenhouse and must be equipped with forced ventilation. If condensation forms between the foam and the wooden elements, this leads to the rapid decay of the wood.
Sprayed heaters are convenient for quick and dense filling of hard-to-reach places. Ecowool, made from cellulose, is vapor permeable and allows wooden structures to breathe. It is convenient to use for warming small attic spaces.
But ecowool is afraid of getting wet, and its use will require special equipment for blowing.
Polyurethane foam is a strong and durable material that is not afraid of moisture, suitable for warming large rooms. But, like any polymer insulation, it does not allow steam and air to pass through, so it is not recommended for wooden houses. Thanks to the development of the construction industry, PPU insulation now does not require the use of special equipment, since cylinders have appeared that work from a construction gun on the principle of mounting foam.
Attic insulation technology
Depending on whether the attic will be habitable, the technology of its insulation also depends. For warm attic only the roof is insulated, for cold weather - only the attic floor.
Insulation of a residential attic with mineral wool or foam plastic
If the house has already been built and you don’t want to disassemble the roof, this can be done from the inside:
After that, you can start finishing the attic and begin to settle in!
Cold attic wooden house can be insulated with a minimum of cost and effort using ordinary sawdust. This method will improve the microclimate in the house due to natural ventilation. For this, it is important to ensure maximum vapor permeability. attic floor:
- cardboard should be laid on the subfloor - just to prevent sawdust from falling through the cracks;
- a layer of sawdust 15-20 cm thick is poured;
- in no case should sawdust be covered with waterproofing - they should be freely ventilated;
- the floor is laid with a small gap between sawdust and boards.
How to properly insulate reinforced concrete attic floors is described in detail in the video:
Properly performed insulation of the attic floor of the house ensures the preservation of heat inside the premises, and not its useless waste for heating a cold attic. Warm air, rising, will freely pass through the ceiling, which means that all expenses for heating the room will ultimately go to heat the street.
This means that it is necessary to insulate the attic floor using suitable heat-insulating agents even at the stage of building construction or before finishing the interior.
The technological process of thermal insulation will be determined design features buildings: wooden beam or solid reinforced concrete structure.
However, in any case, heat-insulating means for attic insulation should:
- have minimal thermal conductivity;
- have water-repellent properties;
- be fireproof;
- resist rotting or mold formation;
- have a small weight.
Based on this, today, as a heater for attic floors on wooden beams, it is usually used:
- Mineral wool. Inexpensive, lightweight, durable material that is easy to work with. Usually, mineral wool is placed in the inter-beam space in two layers, on the basis that the thickness of the material will be at least 20 cm. At the same time, the joints are tightly fitted, but not jammed. If further arrangement of a dwelling or attic is planned, then the insulation of the cold attic ceiling necessarily includes the installation of a crate.
- Expanded clay. It is a loose mass of baked clay. Suitable for all types of floors, however, it is more often used for insulating concrete slabs. However, only the bearing capacity of the building structure can limit the use of this material. The optimal layer of expanded clay when constructing a heat-insulating layer is at least 16 cm, this must be taken into account when calculating the material.
- Styrofoam. Most cheap option used for insulation of the attic floor on a reinforced concrete slab or wooden beams. Its advantages include: ease of installation, low weight, excellent thermal insulation and low cost, however, the foam is not resistant to the formation of fungal mold, exposed to high temperatures.
- Sawdust. Inexpensive natural insulation, often used in the attics of private houses. It has excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. However, such material attracts rodents and insects, is flammable, prone to mold formations, absorbs moisture, and cakes.
Preparation of materials and tools
Before insulating the attic floor in a private house, it is necessary to prepare lumber, hydro and vapor barrier, standard carpentry and power tools. Thus, to carry out the technical part of the work, you will need:
From a hand tool:
- a pair of hammers (heavy and light);
- longitudinal and cross saw;
- plane;
- a set of chisels;
- roulette;
- building level.
From a power tool:
- drill;
- screwdriver with interchangeable nozzles;
- instead of a cross saw, it is sometimes much more convenient to use an electric cutting machine.
To fix the roll insulation, it is convenient to use a special construction stapler with staples.
A polyethylene foam film or a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane is suitable for creation. To hermetically process the joints, you will need foil tape.
From lumber, you will need bars with a section of 62x62 mm, as well as boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. For finishing the floor, each owner uses finishing materials at his own request.
Important! Before carrying out thermal insulation work, all wooden components of the structure must be treated with special antiseptics and, if possible, antipyretics. This will avoid the occurrence of putrefactive or moldy processes in the wood, and will also give fire-fighting properties.
Draft ceiling lining
During the construction of wooden houses, the entire load from the roof falls on wooden load-bearing beams made of timber or logs, with a cross section of at least 120x120 mm. Most often they are mounted on bearing walls construction of the house, parallel to its narrow side and they are the bearing elements of the ceiling of the upper floor and attic floor.
The insulation of the attic floor on wooden beams is called hemmed, since both the draft and the final ceiling are hemmed from below to the supporting elements.
Before you start warming the attic, you need to make a draft ceiling. Edged board and plywood are usually used as the main material here. In this case, the boards are fastened closely with the help of galvanized self-tapping screws.
vapor barrier
For any type of ceiling, vapor barrier is an integral step. A thin and durable film is attached to the ceiling itself, since this helps to prevent vapor condensation in the heat insulator when heat enters from the heated room.
can fit under any finishing materials. They have additional functions in the form of protection against wind, water, dust. Therefore, the space under the roof will be reliably protected not only from the harmful effects of condensate, but also from atmospheric influences with maximum effect.
To install a vapor barrier, it is enough to evenly distribute the film over the surface of the attic floor and fix it with metal brackets, while the joints should be glued with foil tape.
Installation of thermal insulation
After installing the draft ceiling and the vapor barrier layer, the ceiling beams will be located on the side of the attic, so the thermal insulation will be between them. Based on which insulation is chosen, the laying process itself may differ slightly.
So, for example, to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool, sheet or roll material is laid on a vapor barrier layer without any jamming or compression. Another layer of film is laid on top of the insulation.
This whole cake is attached with a furniture stapler to the beams and walls, all over the room. The joints of the vapor barrier membrane must be hermetically treated with metallized adhesive tape.
When installing foam, a waterproof film is unnecessary, since the polymer insulation itself does not allow air and moisture to pass through. Usually foam is mounted on the surface of the draft ceiling in two layers.
When using expanded clay as a heater, a two-layer vapor barrier is used. However, in this case, it is necessary to fill in a loose mass of fired clay with different fractions. This will avoid the formation of voids in the heat-insulating layer and improve heat and sound insulation.
The technological process of insulation with sawdust is similar to the use of expanded clay. However, here very often wood chips are mixed with other binders: clay, cement or gypsum. In any case, the sawdust must first be dried, treated with antiseptics and, if possible, antipyretics.
Note! Any mineral insulating material is capable of transmitting heat and moisture. To improve the heat-saving properties and extend the life of the insulation, it is necessary to use special vapor-proof films.
Waterproofing
When the interfloor cake is ready, it is necessary to waterproof the cold attic room. It will help eliminate the appearance of grooves and condensation. Most often, the role of waterproofing is performed by foil polyethylene foam.
It is fastened with a stapler with the metallized side out, while leaving the ends 15-20 cm long wrapped on the walls. Joints, as in other cases, are glued with foil tape.
Over the entire surface of the resulting structure, a crate is mounted, which will later be the basis for the finishing coating of the ceiling. Moreover, it is necessary to create an air-thermal floor cushion.
Arrangement of the floor in the attic
In most cases, attics in private homes are used as utility rooms for storing unnecessary trash. But also often made of it living room or attic. In any case, this room must have a reliable, safe floor.
Type used in a particular case thermal insulation material will help you choose the right material to create a subfloor in the attic. So, for example, if the attic floor is insulated with mineral wool on wooden beams or foam is used as a heater, then the floor covering must be rigid. As draft material most often use thick plywood, edged board or OSB sheets.
Expanded clay insulation is covered with thick plywood. As a draft floor covering when arranging a living space in the attic, if the bearing characteristics of the building allow, sometimes it becomes a cement screed.
Sawdust-cement or sawdust-clay heaters, after drying, become rigid and resemble a reinforced concrete rough coating, so fine finishing can be done directly on it.
Conclusion
There are several variations on the theme of how to insulate the attic floor. Which one to apply to a particular room depends on technical features structure and owner preferences. The main thing here is the correct observance of all technological stages thermal insulation installations.
With the rise in energy prices, the need to improve the thermal insulation of suburban households increases. Without high-quality performance of work, arrangement and living outside the city in winter period won't be comfortable. Comprehensive attic insulation in a private house with your own hands involves the study of all roof surfaces. This is a simple, but multi-stage process, where all operations must be carried out in compliance with the laying technology in order to avoid mistakes that are difficult to correct during the operation of the building. The attic is used in different ways, the degree of insulation from the inside and outside depends on it.
Determining the functionality of the attic
Complete attic insulation wooden house or a small cottage is very important, and it is better not to delay it so that the formation of condensate does not cause dampness. It leads to a decrease in the life of the building, the emergence of a favorable environment for fungi and mold. This happens over time in a new house, and in an old one.
An uninsulated attic is the whole house with a lot of heat loss, even if the boiler or stove is working to its fullest. Due to the temperature difference, cold penetrates into the house through all the cracks and openings, and an uninsulated attic gives off most of the heat from the ceiling of residential premises. Therefore, after insulating windows and floors, they move on to thermal insulation of the attic.
When using the attic as a living area, a finish is needed on top of thermal insulation materials. If it's pure Utility room, then it is not worth spending money on finishing materials. Perhaps, over time, there will be a desire to use the attic as an attic, then lay the floor and decorate the internal slopes of the roof as walls. Before that, it will be possible to strengthen the thermal insulation.
Tip: Experts recommend immediately making a full-fledged multi-layer insulation with vapor and waterproofing of attic floors. If the filler is laid in layers in a checkerboard pattern, closing the joints, then there will be no "cold bridges".
When the attic is used for technical needs and general maintenance of the roof, it is worth separately insulating:
- floors;
- chimney;
- communications.
Choosing the right materials and insulation
In the recent past, in rural houses, in order to reduce heat loss, a layer was laid out in attics:
- straw or hay;
- sawdust and shavings;
- dry leaves or seaweed.
Mice often settled in natural materials, and the materials themselves could ignite when the chimney overheated. Later, attics began to be insulated:
- glass wool;
- expanded clay;
- ruberoid.
Today, specialized materials are used to insulate the attic of the latest generation, in convenient packaging, which can be purchased at any hardware store. They can cover all surfaces under the roof. The thickness of the insulating filler is selected in accordance with:
- from the functionality of the attic;
- technical characteristics of the material;
- climatic factors.
Main advantages modern materials for complete thermal insulation:
- low specific gravity;
- low cost;
- ease of installation and operation;
- fire safety;
- they are not toxic;
- excellent protection against moisture and temperature extremes.
Among the most common materials for attic insulation in a private house do-it-yourself use:
- mineral or basalt wool (ecowool);
- expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
- expanded clay;
- polyurethane foam;
- fiberglass, etc.
Before laying the main thermal insulation material, it is important to ensure:
- condensate drain;
- vapor barrier of floors;
- roof waterproofing.
Tip: Windproof film, rolled waterproofing materials and a vapor barrier membrane will cope with this, which will provide layers of the main insulation with protection from condensation and wetting.
For high-quality attic insulation in a private house, you can use any latest-generation insulation that is offered in a building supermarket.
Attention: Before buying, you should consult with the specialists of the trading floor and read the instructions in order to have an idea about the method of its installation. Some materials are sprayed, like snow, on inclined surfaces, others are laid with the help of a crate, and expanded clay is covered with a layer on the lower surface.
When laying layers for attic insulation with mineral wool and similar rolled materials, it is important to exclude the divergence of the insulation seams. Thermal insulation should be tightly adjacent to all surfaces, enter the openings between the beams, forming a continuous cover. Joints between tile materials such as insulating foam can be filled with mounting foam.
When choosing materials, the determining factors remain:
- roof shape;
- general condition of the attic and its functionality;
- type of roofing materials;
- gable thickness;
- pre-laid rolled waterproofing or its absence.
Today fiberglass, foam glass and mineral wool- the most popular and reliable materials. But high-quality insulation of the attic at home with your own hands should begin with full-fledged moisture protection and vapor barrier. And although this additional expenses, it is worth taking care of it, even if it is a simple fiberglass or special foil.
Heaters used for processing the attic space have a different degree of thermal conductivity. Heat saving and the recommended number of layers for application, spraying or styling depend on this factor.
When choosing a material for roof and attic insulation, it is important to consider the climate zone. If the house is located in a region with a warm climate, it is not recommended to buy rolls and sheets of maximum thickness. For latitudes with severe and long winters, bulk materials. It makes sense to lay insulation in 2-3 layers, use different types thermal insulation on one surface. But remember that the volume of thermal insulation material does not always indicate the quality of the insulation and its maximum performance. They can be checked against the table.
1. High-density mineral wool is a universal thermal insulation that has a sufficient degree of protection against moisture accumulation. Under it, it is enough to lay a dense vapor barrier membrane. Basalt wool has several forms of release - slabs, rolls, loose mixture, to be used for any type of surface. It is also used as insulation and fire protection for chimneys and chimneys.
Attention: A small amount of formaldehyde is present in the mineral wool composition of some packaging forms. Therefore, when working with it, use a protective respirator and gloves, observing safety precautions.
2. Fiberglass is an excellent eco-material with a high degree of fire safety, although some of its indicators are slightly lower than analogues. It is available in packaging that is convenient for installation, it is easy to transport and store directly in the attic. Even a novice in this business can easily handle the installation of fiberglass according to the instructions included with the purchase. Suitable for warming the ceiling of a cold attic. However, it is more often used for external roof insulation.
3. Expanded clay - excellent bulk insulation, which are poured onto the floor (lower horizontal surface) of the attic or attic. Since its weight is low and thermal conductivity is low, the use of this bulk material makes it preferred. There is nothing easier - to pour expanded clay on the floor or between the joists, leveling with the required height layer over the vapor-tight membrane. The only drawback is that it is difficult to use on an inclined surface. Also suitable for the main filling of the cement mixture. On expanded clay, fastened with a cement-sand mixture, a laminate or linoleum is laid in a residential area.
4. Expanded polystyrene resembles polystyrene, it is not susceptible to mold and fungus. It is quite fireproof, durable and environmentally friendly. Does not cause a reaction even in allergy sufferers. It is laid with the help of lathing in layers, but it is important to provide waterproofing with rolled material before its installation.
5. Spraying with polyurethane foam resembles a layer of snow, and it is used where other heaters are difficult to lay, for example, when complex form roofs with many fractures. It is sprayed onto the laid vapor barrier membrane.
Tip: When insulating the attic of a wooden house or cottage, you can combine several types of material, depending on the shape of the ceiling and the features of the roof.
Attention: Sometimes an additional wooden crate is used to eliminate seams and "cold bridges". But they should not add significant weight to the structure of the house, especially on problematic soils!
The crate for sheathing with insulation is made after the installation of waterproofing. The frame for sheathing is made from planks that were used for sheathing under roll and sheet insulation.
If it is planned to use the attic as a living space, then after warming they proceed to sheathing with finishing materials of the attic. Suitable for this purpose:
- drywall;
- OSB boards;
- plywood boards;
- sheet composite materials.
Internal and external insulation
The building materials market offers a wide range of full-fledged attic insulation used as additional living space. Today it is customary to combine the external method and waterproofing and insulation and interior decoration.
When choosing a method of external insulation of a gable or hip roof, it is taken into account how its slopes will be insulated and roofing materials. Insulation is mounted between rafters, beams and battens. For example, they combine rolled materials and solid insulation packed in layers, for example, basalt wool, a special membrane or foil. The difference between external and internal insulation in the way of laying on floors or on beams.
For internal works start with laying a layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing, and then mount 1-2 layers of insulation, for example, mineral wool. It is not closed with anything so that excess moisture from condensate can easily evaporate.
Polyurethane foam does not require additional sheathing at all, it is light, sprayed from a two-component mixture with special equipment. Upon completion of the application, a durable material in the form of dense flakes forms on the inner surface of the roof slopes. It does not form condensate and "cold bridges", even if we spray directly on the frame and roofing iron. It can also be used as insulation for attic pipes and chimneys.
A little about safety
Loose insulation tends to crumble, dust or evaporate volatile substances. Therefore, experts recommend working in a mask and clothing that protects the skin and respiratory organs from irritants and allergens. It is equally important to protect your eyes with goggles.
All work is carried out in work gloves, regardless of air temperature and installation conditions. For outdoor work on roof insulation, you can use insurance and equipment for climbers. It is important to check the reliability of the stairs in advance, including the roof that moves along the ridge. All work is done with an assistant or a person in charge of insurance.
Preparing the attic for insulation
The attic is often filled with various household rubbish, which is used quite rarely, for example, equipment for winter fishing and summer picnics. Before starting work on insulation, all this must be removed from the attic, especially when spraying.
Wooden parts, such as beams, rafters and lathing, it is important to pre-treat with a protective compound against rotting and the formation of fungus. Metal surfaces are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or a metal primer. All rust is cleaned with a special metal brush. There is a wash in the use of moisture-repellent compounds.
Remove the old sealant from the slots, which was used long time. Old felt, hemp, polystyrene foam, sawdust and rags decay and lose their properties over time. After cleaning from old materials used fragmentarily, sometimes small gaps appear that can be treated with mounting foam.
Thereafter:
- provide access to all treated surfaces;
- cooking working area and all tools;
- we prepare materials for insulation and work clothes;
- we provide ventilation after completion of insulation work.
Before laying mineral wool as an attic insulation, a wooden crate is made of fixing strips, which should hold the layers of material. This can be done from conventional mounting rails, which are inexpensive. Under decorative trim walls of the attic used as an attic room, laying can be done without crates, located between the ceiling and the shields finishing materials.
Warming technology
1. After the initial inspection, all defects in the overlap must be detected, and all rotten parts must be replaced or duplicated. Wood is treated with fungicides and antiseptics.
2. We equip or correct the waterproofing layer to get a full-fledged hydro-barrier. In unstable places, membrane materials can be patched with mounting tape.
3. Between the rafters, the gaps are filled with a layer of heat-insulating material. If necessary, we lay it in 2 layers, but the seams of the boards must be blocked. Roll materials overlap.
4. The adjunction of floor structures to the walls should be insulated especially carefully, without gaps. The insulation is installed without jams and failures.
5. It is important to carefully adjust the insulation at the joints, at the ventilation window, near communications and the chimney. In some places, it is advisable to fill in bulk mineral wool, which will fill the voids, moreover, it does not ignite even in hot places near chimneys.
6. A layer of vapor barrier is fixed on top of the thermal insulation layer, while the sheets are laid with a slight overlap, secured with mounting tape.
7. Insulation of communications is the next stage, because without insulation of the ventilation shaft, chimney and pipes, the work will not be comprehensive. This can be desired with special corrugations and insulating linings, perlite and basalt wool are suitable.
8. After checking the tightness of the attic insulation, the floor is processed. It is done after the cleaning of construction debris after the installation of fillers for insulation. Best of all, specially laid logs hold a layer of loose expanded clay. It can be filled with sawdust or clay, and moisture-resistant plywood can be laid on top. More clearly - attic insulation, video:
For comfortable operation of the building, it is necessary that the attic floor is well insulated to prevent the temperature of the ceiling surface from dropping below the dew point. Otherwise, moisture spots will definitely appear on the ceiling and walls, which will only worsen appearance rooms, but will also cause mold growth and the development of fungi, which are problematic to get rid of. Therefore, increased requirements are imposed on the thermal protection of the attic floor.
In accordance with the regulations, the heat transfer resistance for the attic floor must be at least the following value: Ro = 4.15 m 2 ° C / W. Attic floor country house insulated with slabs of mineral (basalt) or glass wool. Insulation boards must be laid between ceiling beams or on floor slabs. Mineral wool is laid on a vapor barrier layer or on a plastic film.
The foil insulation material is laid with the shiny side down. The space between the beams is filled with a layer of heat-insulating material. To reduce heat loss through cold bridges, another layer of thermal insulation is laid on top of the beams.
To reduce heat loss from light fiber insulation due to drafts, it is protected with a vapor-permeable windproof material. The use of such material allows you to increase the thermal protection of the attic floor and protect the insulation from getting wet if drops of moisture fall on it (in case of damage to the roof or leaks).
From the eaves, the insulation layer must also be protected from the wind by high-density mineral wool slabs or boards that are installed on the edge.
The attic or attic rooms, divided into compartments by partitions, can be insulated in various ways.
- The first way: if the attic is non-residential, then only the floors should be insulated - the ceiling of the building.
- The second way: if the attic has an attic, then it is necessary to insulate, in addition to the floors, the roof.
To insulate the roof of the attic and rooms are usually used:
- Construction felt.
- Mineral wool in various designs.
- Styrofoam.
- Polyurethane foam.
- Basalt, glass wool, ecowool.
Floors in the attic can be insulated with the following materials:
- Construction felt, mineral wool, glass wool.
- Foam boards.
- Expanded clay, slag, ash, sawdust, straw, reeds.
Before insulating the attic, the joints of the floor and roof are checked, the cracks are sealed with tow soaked in lime mortar. You can also use mounting foam, silicone adhesives and sealants.
Before performing work, all wooden structures are covered with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds.
When insulating the roof from asbestos-cement sheets, special attention should be paid to gaps that are formed by waves of asbestos-cement sheets. If there are gaps, then they are filled with tow in lime mortar.
The presence of protective covers, collars and aprons is checked at the junction of asbestos-cement sheets to parapets, pipes and walls. Let the coating elements on the protective floors be at least 15 cm.
Insulation of the attic with various materials
To insulate the attic and attic in a private house, different heaters are used:
- polystyrene foam
- polyurethane foam
- expanded clay
- felt, etc.
The process of insulation is the same for all materials, so consider the insulation of the attic using the example of mineral wool.
Before starting the attic insulation, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. Mineral wool is versatile and easy to use, has low thermal conductivity and density, and withstands high temperature and insensitive to aggressive environments. Mineral wool is also an excellent sound insulator.
Attic slopes can be insulated with mineral wool slabs and mats. The plates are more rigid, and the mats are elastic, this property helps to lay them better and denser. Foil-coated mineral wool mats are also used for vapor barrier.
Since usually the thickness of mineral wool is greater than the thickness of the rafters, overlays are made on them to increase the thickness. Also, the rafter system is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic solution.
Mineral wool is laid in the gaps between the rafters on the crate and covered with a film for vapor barrier. Vapor barrier film overlapped on truss system. The width of the overlap of the web is visible on the film - a line is drawn along the edge of the web. The joints of the film are insulated with special glue and adhesive tape.
Floor insulation with expanded clay
Expanded clay should be laid on the floor of the attic on roofing material. The thickness of the expanded clay layer is determined by the thermal conductivity of the floor, but in any case, the thickness of the expanded clay should be at least 15 cm, and preferably 20-25 cm.
It is known that up to 15% of the heat from the house can go through the ceiling. Therefore, to reduce heat losses, the ceiling is insulated with expanded clay and other materials. Expanded clay not only retains heat, but also increases sound insulation.
Expanded clay is usually used to insulate concrete floors. To do this, it is covered with a layer of 200-250 mm, poured on top with a cement screed up to 50 mm thick. The screed will serve as the floor.
The cement-sand mortar for the screed must be of a dense consistency so that it does not flow into the expanded clay backfill.
Warming with mineral wool
- Mineral wool should be laid from the farthest point of the attic.
- You need to cut the insulation on a hard surface.
- Beams, pipes, ventilation shafts, etc. should be covered with insulation.
- Mineral wool should be laid in a layer of at least 25 cm.
When working with mineral wool, personal protective equipment is required. These are goggles, rubber gloves, a respirator and clothing with long sleeve. Do not work near open food and drinking water. Contact with mineral wool on the skin causes irritation and itching.
Insulation with polyurethane foam
Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam is carried out by spraying on partitions, roofs, gables and attic floors, so the thermal insulation layer is obtained without seams and joints, that is, a monolithic vapor-tight layer is obtained.
Polyurethane foam has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, so the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer is several times smaller than the mineral wool or foam plastic layer.
The use of polyurethane foam increases the usable area of the attic space.
An attic insulated with a sprayed layer of polyurethane foam is not affected by moisture, condensation does not form on the walls, because polyurethane foam keeps warm air inside. Moisture does not pass through polyurethane foam and cannot settle on a cold roof.
Floor insulation with sawdust is used only in non-residential attics, since sawdust will gradually compact when walking, which will lead to cracks in the concrete screed. The most common solution recipe using sawdust to insulate the attic floor:
- Ten buckets of small sawdust.
- One bucket of cement, at least 300 grades.
- One bucket of fluffy lime.
- Ten liters of water with antiseptic. It can be boric acid, copper sulfate, laundry soap.
The volume of water varies depending on the moisture content of the sawdust. The finished solution of sawdust is laid in layers of 20-25 cm thick and rammed. All building materials that are used in the walls of the house must be vapor-permeable. That is, it is impossible to use roofing material, polyethylene, roofing felt and other materials that do not allow moisture to pass through.
From above, a layer of sawdust during insulation is closed with shields made of plywood, fiberboard or boards. The thickness of the layer of sawdust on the walls should be at least 15 cm, on the floors and on the floor - at least 25 cm. When insulating the floor, a cement screed 5-10 cm thick is made on top of the sawdust.
I decided to dedicate this article to those people who want to insulate the attic of the house on their own without large financial costs. Next, we will get acquainted with heat-insulating materials suitable for these purposes and the nuances of their installation.
Stages of work
Insulation of the attic in a private house is conditionally divided into:
Floor insulation
Floor insulation can also be divided into several steps:
Preparation of materials
First you need to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material. There are quite a few options. However, our task is to insulate the ceiling with minimal financial costs.
- sawdust - thermal conductivity is 0.07 - 0.095 W / mºС. The main advantage of sawdust is that if there are woodworking enterprises nearby, they can be purchased very cheaply or even for free.
The only thing to keep in mind is that before using the sawdust, it is necessary to dry it and also treat it with an antiseptic composition. Also, slaked lime mixed with carbide can be used to protect sawdust from biological influences.
If sawdust has traces of fungus damage, they cannot be used for insulation;
- reed is another natural material which can be obtained for free. The thermal conductivity of the reed does not exceed 0.042 W / (m.K).
Reeds for thermal insulation are harvested in late autumn with the onset of the first frost, when the stems remain almost completely without foliage. Moreover, only mature plants can be used. Such stems are easily identified by a light yellow tint.
- penoizol - is a modified foam that is applied to the surface in the form of foam. Within a few days, the foam hardens.
Penoizol has a lower thermal conductivity than all the materials described above - 0.028 - 0.040 W / (m * K). In addition, penoizol is not subject to biological influences, does not burn and is not afraid of moisture.
The disadvantage of this material is that the insulation of the attic with foam insulation requires certain equipment. Accordingly, it will not be possible to cope with the work on your own. The cost of the material with the work of specialists is 1450-1500 rubles per cubic meter.
True, you can use dry penoizol in bags, but in this case its price will increase to 2000-2300 rubles per cubic meter;
- expanded clay is an environmentally friendly and fireproof natural material that is sold in the form of durable granules. The cost starts on average from 1000 rubles per cubic meter, which allows it to be classified as budget heaters.
The disadvantage of expanded clay is a higher thermal conductivity of 0.1 - 0.18 W / (m * K). So for high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling, expanded clay must be poured with a layer of at least 20 cm.
- mineral wool is also an environmentally friendly and fireproof material with low thermal conductivity (0.038 to 0.055 W / m * K). As a rule, mineral wool is sold in the form of mats or rolls. Its main disadvantage is the rather high cost - from 2300-2500 rubles per cube of basalt mats.
True, you can use stone wool in rolls, the cost of which starts from 1500 rubles per cubic meter. But, this material is less environmentally friendly than basalt wool.
V Lately cellulose-based insulation - ecowool - has become widespread. This material is treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant, therefore it is fireproof and not subject to biological influences. The cost of ecowool is 1200-1500 rubles per cubic meter.
Everyone should choose the best way to insulate the attic in a private house, depending on the needs and availability of a particular heat insulator.
In addition to thermal insulation, you will need other materials:
- vapor barrier membrane;
- boards, OSB sheets or other material that can be laid on floor beams;
- antiseptic impregnation for wood.
Floor preparation
It is possible to start warming the attic floor only after the following preparatory work has been completed:
- if there is flooring on the floor beams, it must be dismantled;
- then wooden beams be sure to treat with antiseptic impregnation. Instructions for the use of such compounds are available on the packaging;
- if there is no roll-up (filing) of the overlap, it must be done. To do this, boards can be nailed to the beams with inside, i.e. from the side of the room.
This completes the preparation.
Floor insulation
Insulation of the attic floor is carried out as follows:
- a vapor barrier membrane must be laid on the logs and the roll. The stripes should overlap each other. For reliability, the joints should be glued with adhesive tape;
- Now the insulation is being installed. Mineral mats must be positioned so that they fit snugly against the floor beams and against each other. The same applies to roll material;
- on top of the floor beams and thermal insulation with their own hands, another layer of vapor barrier is laid and glued with adhesive tape;
- then boards or other material are laid on the floor beams. If the attic will be used as a living space, you can install logs to level the surface and lay a subfloor on top.
If the house has a concrete floor, to insulate the attic, you need to lay mineral mats or extruded polystyrene foam on the slab, and pour the screed. In this case, the insulation on both sides must be closed waterproofing film especially if mineral mats are used.
I must say that the ceiling can be insulated not only from the outside, but also from the side of the room. True, in this case, the choice of insulation is limited, since it will not work to use bulk materials.
As an example, consider how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with an isover, i.e. mineral mats:
- First of all, you need to dismantle the reel. In this case, it is desirable to lay boards on top of the beams and fix them;
- then a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the beams and boards. To fix it, you can use a stapler;
- now mineral mats should be laid in the space between the beams. To fix them, you can use slats located across the beams. Also, nails are often nailed to the beams, between which threads are pulled;
- after that, you need to attach another layer of vapor barrier to the beams;
- at the end of the work, you need to roll up, after which you can deal with the arrangement of the ceiling.
Roof insulation
In most cases, roof insulation is not required. But, if you are going to use the attic as a living space, then this procedure is indispensable.
Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house can also be divided into several stages:
Preparation of materials
Since it is inconvenient to use bulk materials for roof insulation, you can use mineral mats. To save even more, you can make mats from reeds.
In addition to the insulation, you will need the following set of materials:
- vapor barrier;
- nails and threads;
- wooden slats;
- antiseptic impregnation.
Roof preparation
Before proceeding with the insulation of the roof, you need to perform some preparatory work:
- first of all, inspect the truss system for its integrity. If any parts are cracked or rotten, they must be replaced or repaired.;
- if the thickness of the insulation exceeds the thickness of the log, they must be increased. To do this, nail bars or boards of sufficient thickness to them;
- then all wooden structures must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect them from biological influences.
Roof insulation
Do-it-yourself roof insulation in a private house is carried out as follows:
- The vapor barrier membrane must not touch the roof waterproofing. To provide space between these materials, nails must be nailed to the rafters, and threads must be pulled in a zigzag pattern between them;
- then fix the vapor barrier membrane to the rafters with a stapler or small nails. Let me remind you that the smooth side of the vapor barrier should face the insulation. Glue the joints of the film with adhesive tape;
- now you need to lay the insulation in the space between the rafters. To ensure that there are no cold bridges in the thermal insulation, place the mats close to the rafters and to each other . If the cracks are nevertheless formed, they need to be filled with scraps of insulation..
To fix the thermal insulation between the rafters, you can also nail carnations and pull threads between them; - after laying the insulation, you need to fix another layer of vapor barrier on the rafters;
- at the end of the work, you need to complete the crate using slats or boards about 2 cm thick, to which finishing materials can be attached.
Warming of gables
Now it remains only to insulate the gables, if, of course, they are available. I must say that it is more expedient to insulate them from the outside in parallel with the insulation of the entire facade. However, if the facade is not insulated, then thermal insulation must be made from the inside.
To do this, we need the same materials as for finishing. The only thing besides them is to prepare bars or boards. Their width should correspond to the width of the insulation.
Insulation work resembles the thermal insulation of ordinary walls:
- to provide a ventilation space between the walls and the insulation, you need to fix the slats on the gables in a horizontal position. The vertical step should be about half a meter, and horizontally - a few centimeters.
Keep in mind that the slats should form a flat vertical plane. Therefore, if the gables are uneven, the rails must be aligned during installation;
- further, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the rails. During installation, make sure that the film does not sag;
- then vertical racks (beams or boards) are installed. To fix them, you can use self-tapping screws and metal corners. Make the distance between the racks a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mats;
- now the space between the racks must be filled with insulation. If the racks are installed correctly, the mats will go in tightly, and their additional fixation will not be required;
- then attach a vapor barrier to the racks;
- at the end of the work, mount the crate.
Now all that's left is finishing. The choice of finishing materials depends on the purpose of housing and the attic itself. If, the house is used for permanent residence, and the attic will be heated, you can sheathe it with drywall and use any finishing materials.
Finishing a cold attic should be done with materials that are not afraid of low temperatures. Therefore, from the use of wallpaper and plastic panels better to refuse.
Conclusion
Insulating your own attic, as you can see, is not at all difficult. Therefore, you can safely get to work, the only thing I recommend is also to watch the video in this article. If any nuances are not clear to you, please contact me with questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.
