Floor arrangement in a wooden house: materials and technology. Draft and finishing floor

The floor in the house is an important element that provides high-quality thermal and waterproofing of the interior. Structures of this type may differ in reliability and structure, since several types of materials are used in their arrangement. Before proceeding with the construction of these surfaces, you should find out what the floors in a private house should be like. This will allow you to choose best option for a long lasting and durable surface.

Device Features

Country houses are compact and practical. At the same time, all technical requirements for finishing and internal arrangement of the building are fundamentally different from those of apartment buildings.

Floors in a private house must meet several basic criteria:

Strength. The base should easily transfer loads, while not losing its original properties. This also applies to the top decorative layer, which should not wear out, while maintaining the design.
Thermal insulation. The structure and thickness of the floor "pie" is selected in such a way that the base does not let the cold in, and also retains heat inside the room.
Soundproofing. This feature is important for houses with a large number of inhabitants. High-quality sound insulation will create comfortable living conditions inside the building.
Moisture resistance. Almost all residential buildings have a bath, where the humidity level is very high. At the same time, the floor material must not only withstand such conditions, but also maintain a presentable appearance in them.

Kinds

A private house differs from apartment buildings in that here you can adapt the subfloor to your needs. Today in these places there are several types of flooring:

Wooden systems on logs on the ground. These coatings are especially popular with many owners of small residential houses. Main constructive element such a system are logs, which are located directly on the ground. With this approach, you can significantly speed up the process of building floors. But it should be noted that the wood itself does not come into contact with the soil, since a substrate of sand and gravel is placed under it. For waterproofing, this layer is covered with roofing material, on which logs are placed. Such a kind of “pie” gives good indicators of thermal insulation and durability, but does not always allow achieving optimal heat retention.

Wooden floor on supports. Wooden logs are also used here, on which a finishing board is nailed on top. But they are no longer installed on the ground itself, but on special posts that act as supports. They are made of brick, concrete and other durable materials. They are placed around the entire perimeter of the room so that wood can be attached to them. A waterproofing pad is placed between the tree and the lag, excluding the rapid decay of the wood.

Monolithic. Floors of this type are varieties of cement screeds located on the supporting surface. Some of them can already be mounted on a concrete slab, which is used as a foundation. But this type is quite rare and only on resistant soils. Monolithic structures are cold, so they need additional insulation.

Surfaces based on dry screed. This type of flooring has appeared recently and is beginning to gain popularity. The structure of this base consists of a well-packed substrate, which acts both as a heater and a waterproofing layer, and an upper decorative layer. The advantage of such floor coverings is that their construction does not require much time.

The floors in a private house differ in structure and materials used.

But in all these designs, several main components can be distinguished:

Litter. The lowest layer, the purpose of which is the perception and uniform distribution of the load.
Middle draft layer. This element is not always present in floor coverings. But quality bases always apply a structure with this component. The main task is the perception of negative factors in order to reduce their impact on the upper decorative bases.
Insulation. These elements are found in almost all types of floors. It uses both hydro- and thermal insulation, which can extend the life of the product, as well as provide comfortable conditions inside the house.
decorative layer. Various substances are used here, which differ in design and structure. With their help, not only decorate the floor, but also additionally warm it.

materials

The arrangement of floors in a private house involves the use of substances that perfectly support the microclimate inside the house.

For the construction of such structures, several groups of materials are used:

Lumber. This group of substances is used during the construction of lag-based floors. The most popular products are wooden blocks, boards of various thicknesses, sawdust (heat insulator). This group includes plywood, OSB and other boards based on wood products.
insulating materials. This group is also very wide and includes substances for arranging hydro, steam and thermal insulation. Products of this type include rolled materials (film, roofing material, all types of mineral wool), as well as bulk structures (expanded clay, sand, crushed stone, etc.). Many of these substances do not form a separate layer. They are meant to cover and isolate other elements of the system.
Decorative trim. Such coatings also come in several types. The most common are solid board, ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, etc.

All of them allow you to create universal floor coverings with various technical and decorative properties. Some of them can only be used under certain conditions.

For organization floor heating concrete floors are suitable, which tolerate changes in temperature and humidity well.

How to do it yourself?

Flooring in a private house is not so difficult task. It is only important to choose the right type of flooring that suits your requirements. It is much easier to do this during the construction phase of the building. During this period, the floor is mounted from scratch, which eliminates the dismantling and replacement of the old coating. If repairs are being made, then the algorithm for arranging the floor base may vary depending on the structure of the material used before.

Each type of flooring is different original technical specifications. Therefore, when building a private house, many are wondering which floor is better to form inside it.

To choose the best option, you should consider the advantages and disadvantages of each system:

Single wooden floors. Designs of this type are budgetary and are used quite often. In the structure of the floor, only beams are used, on top of which a finishing board or other material is immediately attached. To protect the wood, it is necessary to use several layers of heat and moisture insulation during the arrangement. If you do not follow the technology, the base will quickly dry out and form cracks. This, in turn, will lead to drafts and a large loss of heat. To correct all the shortcomings, it will be necessary to completely redo the entire structure.

Double floors. This structure allows you to increase the service life and strength of the base. Double coatings retain heat much better, although insulation is also used here. But the construction of this floor will be much more expensive than the previous one.
monolithic foundations. Concrete floors are highly durable, which is their main advantage. They are able to withstand almost any load, and are also suitable for finishing with all decorative materials. Lag-based floors can also be built on a cement base, which will be durable and warm. The disadvantage of monolithic floors is their heavy weight, which does not always allow them to be built on the second floor if the walls are not designed for such loads.

The arrangement of any type of floor involves the selection of materials and tools that will allow you to get a reliable and durable design.

To solve such problems, you will need the following materials:

Bedding. This includes classic gravel and sand. They are used for leveling the ground. Not used when installing floors on the second floor.
Material for forming a rough base. There are also several options here. If you have chosen a wooden floor, then you should purchase high-quality wooden bars that will withstand the load. You will also need special fasteners to fix the wood. In some cases, you will need a small bar with a section of 5 * 5 cm, which is nailed to the bottom of the log. A rough base is then attached to them. A similar approach is found in the construction of the floor on the second floor.
Thermal insulation materials. Often, mineral wool or expanded clay is used here, which are covered with special films. This is necessary so that moisture does not get into the structure of the heat insulator, which can quickly destroy it. Please note that the installation sequence must be followed. If you change some of the layers, this will lead to the accumulation of moisture inside its structure.

Installation of flooring in the country can be performed different ways. It all depends on the chosen type of base.

The algorithm for arranging a wooden floor on the ground floor consists of the following sequential steps:

Ground leveling. In this case, the surface is covered with sand and compacted. Crushed stone is placed on top of it, which is also rammed and compacted. If the logs are located on concrete columns, then the soil is only leveled with sand. Supports are constructed in this case around the entire perimeter at a distance of 2-3 m, depending on the thickness of the board.
Log laying. The bars rest either on poles or on a crushed stone cushion. Between them, a roofing material or other waterproofing agent must be placed. Some experts recommend covering the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room with a film.
Arrangement of thermal insulation. Between the lags have waterproofing film, on top of which mineral wool slabs are placed. Then all this is closed with a vapor barrier.

The formation of a wooden floor on the second floor is carried out according to almost the same algorithm, only in order to be able to lay mineral wool slabs, you need to nail wooden blocks to the bottom of the log.

After that, boards are laid on them, acting as a kind of base. Then, the formation of a heat-insulating layer from a certain substance is also performed.

Particular attention should be paid to concrete floors, which are formed mainly on the ground floor. If you want to form a concrete floor on the second tier, then you need to use materials that can withstand such a load to build walls.

The algorithm for installing a concrete floor is quite simple and consists of the following steps:

Leveling and preparation of the base. Here the soil is also rammed and covered with a sand and gravel cushion.
Strengthening. So that concrete does not crack and withstand loads, it is reinforced. For this, reinforcement is used, which is connected in the form of a grid. If the floor is supposed to have an opening into the cellar, it is important to reinforce it as well to get a solid structure.
Fill. When the base is ready, a thick layer is poured onto it. concrete mix. Its thickness can be from 5 to 20 cm, depending on the structure of the soil. To obtain a flat surface, the concrete is carefully compacted with special machines.

fine finish

The design of any floor involves a decorative finish.

This can be done using several types of materials:

Board installation. This is the main option for arranging wooden floors. Before laying it, the wood should be treated with special compounds. They will protect it from premature decay and damage by microorganisms. When installing the board, it is important to carefully adjust its dimensions in order to get joints without gaps.
Laying laminate or parquet. Their installation is carried out only on perfectly flat bases. If the floor is formed from logs, then you need to level it with plywood, boards or other similar materials. After that, the substrate is laid, on which the lamellas are joined together. When old floors are used for installation, it is important to check their condition. If necessary, it is desirable to cover the damaged areas so that the parquet does not sag over time.
Tiling. This option is suitable for bathrooms where there is high humidity. Installation is carried out on cement mortars that adhere well to the tiles. The material is only suitable for concrete bases.
Use of roll products. This includes linoleum and all similar materials. They allow you to get a beautiful surface, but at the same time require a solid substrate. You can use them for any reason.

To build private house, you have to work hard, and all the processes performed require significant costs.

In an effort to save money, some do some of the work on their own, so the question arises, how to make a floor in a private house without calling on construction teams to help?

Anyone who has all the necessary materials, suitable tools and certain knowledge can do such work.

Sex Varieties

Scheme of the device of a single and double plank floor

Before starting work, you should decide what design the main coating will have.

Among the most popular types, the following types of floors should be distinguished:

single;
double;
concrete.

The choice of each of them is design features buildings in which future installation is planned, and the conditions for further operation.

Features of the device floors

Single floors are recommended only for summer cottages

A single floor is, as a rule, a fairly simple design, for the implementation of which there is no need to spend a lot of materials and time. The floorboard is fixed directly to the logs with nails.

The disadvantage of such a floor from the boards is the limited use. This coating is used most often only in the country, or in small houses and fully performs only the functions of holding the weight of all objects and people inside the room, combined with moderate cheapness.

In a room where year-round living is planned, such structures are used less and less.

Double floors consist of finishing and rough screed, have thermal insulation

A double floor is a construction suitable for laying in a room in which people will be all year round. What to make the floor from so that it is warm even when it is cold outside?

This design consists of two layers: a rough and a finishing screed. Between them waterproofing and thermal insulation materials. They perfectly protect not only the floor from destruction, but the whole house from blowing and dampness.

Floor device diagram

The rough coating is made of unedged boards, and the finishing one is made of grooved boards. All the processes that the construction of a floor in a private house needs can be done by hand.

The concrete floor is a common screed. To do this, first implement preparatory work for dismantling the old coating and placing guides, then a waterproofing layer is laid and a solution is made, which fills the prepared area.

To ensure that the floor is of high quality and ready for further finishing works, he should be given the time necessary for setting.

Table of consumption of concrete for a jellied floor.

Single floor unit made of wood

The instructions below will allow you to understand the question of how to properly make the floor in a private house, subject to the order of all actions.

The device of a single floor will be carried out on poles, which, as a rule, are mounted during the construction of the main structure. At the same time, the interval between the pillars should be kept at the level of 80 cm. Subsequently, beams 10 cm thick are laid on each of the supports.
On top of this structure, we lay a grid of logs, which should be a section of 5x5 cm. If the board prepared for the floor has a section of 3 cm, then the distance between the logs should be maintained at 50 cm. Set the system under the level using special wedges and firmly fix with nails.
A rough floor from an unedged board is laid on this structure with their own hands, and a floor covering, usually linoleum or laminate, is laid on top of this layer.

For such floors, thermal insulation does not play a big role, since they are built for temporary or auxiliary buildings.

However, when placed in residential buildings, before laying the subfloor, the space between the lags should be filled with sheets of foam or expanded polystyrene. Positive properties are low cost and speed of construction.

double wood floor

The device of this design is somewhat more complicated. It includes, along with a rough screed, layers of vapor, heat and hydro protection with a finishing layer located on top. The last layer, as a rule, is made of grooved boards.

How to build a floor to keep it cool in summer and provide a pleasant microclimate in winter? More about correct device see sex in this video:

All processes can be done with your own hands, if you follow the step-by-step instructions:

During the placement of the boards, it should be taken into account that between the vapor barrier and the layer of finished boards there should be an air pocket of at least 2-3 cm.

For good ventilation in the air pocket, special through holes that need to be covered with a decorative crate.

Concrete floor

Initially, marking is done for the manufacture of such a coating. To do this, use a laser level, which will accurately help to set the marks along which the threads will subsequently be pulled.

Calculation and tools

Concrete floor installation

To carry out all processes, you must have:

vibrorammer;
ruberoid;
small expanded clay;
polyethylene film;
foam boards;
reinforced mesh;
spirit or laser level;
slats.

Only when making a durable, perfectly even concrete floor can one hope for high-quality arrangement floor covering.

Concrete floor installation

Before you make the floors in a private house, you need to read the instructions that will help you do all the processes in strict accordance with the rules and regulations:

Initially, the base of the surface on which the concrete floor will be performed is prepared. For this, a rough base is prepared, which can be made from layers of broken bricks or crushed stone using M100 concrete.
The next stage involves the installation of a waterproofing layer. It is very practical in this case to use roofing material.
After that, you need to take care of thermal insulation. You can use expanded clay or foam boards for this purpose. IN middle lane it is advisable to place both of these layers simultaneously, starting with the foam.
On top of the laid layers, it is best to place a small wooden crate, followed by laying the chain-link mesh.
On top of the erected frame, starting from the corner farthest from the entrance, a smooth pouring of concrete begins with simultaneous leveling with the rule along the marked lighthouse lines. Filling is carried out in one run.
The final stage is the leveling of the top layer with a liquid cement mortar or a special self-leveling compound. For information on how to properly fill the subfloor, see this video:

To successfully complete the tasks of pouring the floor, you should be guided by the attached instructions and purchase quality expendable materials and fixtures.

Do-it-yourself wooden flooring is quite possible, if you first study the instructions for this work. Boardwalk has always been more popular than floors made from other materials, as it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and the ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in residential premises.

Most often, coniferous wood is selected for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows particular resistance to both temperature extremes and high humidity. Due to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not appear on it, which means that the processes of decay and destruction are excluded.

Gender Requirements

Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents. These criteria can be safely attributed to:

Effective soundproofing and thermal insulation of rooms.
Reliability and durability of a wooden covering.
Wear resistance, and therefore - the durability of the floor.
Moisture resistance and hygiene - cleaning the floor should not cause any particular difficulties.
The aesthetics of wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
Ease of installation work.

To achieve all the mentioned qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its installation.

Material selection criteria

In order for the floors to serve for a long time without drying out the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following material parameters:

grade. For a finish coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and for rough flooring, grade 2 ÷ 3 is usually bought. If the finished floor is covered with paint, then second-rate material is quite suitable for it.

The quality of the wood will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing the highest grade material, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they must either be completely absent, or be in a minimal amount.

It is very important to pay attention to the drying of wood. It must have a certain humidity, otherwise, over the years, gaps will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will become deformed. Humidity for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for roughing - not more than 17%.
The length of the bars and boards should ideally correspond to the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
The standard thickness of floorboards is 120×25mm and 100×25mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the lag on which the boards will be fixed. According to the existing technology, these distances should be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:

Step between lags in mm	Floorboard thickness in mm
300	20
400	24
500	30
600	35
700	40
800	45
900	50
1000	55

Buying any construction material, after the necessary calculations have been made, it is necessary to add 15% in reserve to this amount - this rule has been verified by experienced builders, therefore it is recommended to follow it.

Wood preparation

Before the process of installing the lag and flooring of the floorboards, they must be prepared. Usually, flooring material is sold already planed, but if burrs are detected during inspection, they must be removed with an electric planer.

Their installation is started only after the material has completely dried.

The choice of floor design

Knowing all the requirements that apply to the coating material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since for each specific case, its own option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will take place.

There are several main types of wooden floor designs:

Floors on logs laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finishing floor.
"Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
Coating fixed on logs laid on the ground.

These methods of arranging a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give creative freedom to the master, who can bring his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it to a greater extent.

Floor beam system

Logs, as the basis for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is arranged has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.

To create an air gap, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on top waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly fixed to it or simply securely laid on top. The second option is chosen in the event that the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it does, it will not pull the floor system along with it, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.

With a large width of the room (more than 3 meters), columns can be additionally installed between the walls, which will create rigidity for the floor system. Waterproofing must be laid on all supporting structures under the beams of the base of the floor, in order to wooden details served the longest possible time.

What should be the thickness of the lag and floor beams? This mainly depends on the width of the free span (distance between adjacent support points). Usually proceed from the following indicators (see table):

After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be fixed on them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected floorboards.

When arranging such a “floating” floor structure, the logs, and then the boards, should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent of them. A material is laid in the opening between the walls and the floor system, which will not allow cold air to enter the room, allow the wood to “breathe”, and expand freely when temperature and humidity changes.
When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlapping by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on the support posts or on the beam. The logs should be aligned with the building level, if necessary, to achieve an ideal horizontal, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs.
After the logs are set and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a subfloor, for which low quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial bars 30 × 50 mm in size are screwed on the entire length of the lag from below.

The boards of the subfloor are not always fixed to the cranial bars, usually they are simply laid tightly to each other. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, fixing it with staples to the logs and boards.

Between the lags, the vapor barrier fits tightly - this can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as dry filling of expanded clay or slag.

Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation. Its individual sheets are glued together with adhesive tape, and then the film is attached to the logs with staples.

The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary so that dust and particles of insulation material cannot enter the living quarters. On top of this entire floor system, floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid.

Prices for various types of timber

Logs fixed to the concrete pavement

Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor on logs is also arranged on a concrete base. Here, the whole difficulty lies in leveling the lag on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise wood flooring a few centimeters above the concrete slab.

If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then fixed to the concrete base using anchors.

Both in the first and in the second version, the lags are drilled through. To raise the log above the base, use different metal and plastic elements. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs on one side or the other, aligning them in level. The extra piece of the hairpin, after removing the lag to the desired height, is cut off with a grinder.

In each of the options, a heater can be laid on the concrete between the lags, which will add thermal insulation to the coating, and also help to drown out the noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where the logs are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, polystyrene or can be used as an insulating material.

Flooring on concrete floor

Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of a log. As a covering, floorboards or plywood are used. It is advisable to lay a thin insulating material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, but it is better to choose one that has a foil coating.

Separate sheets of the substrate material are fastened together with adhesive tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and drown out noise. If plywood is used for flooring, you need to remember that it is necessary to lay a decorative coating on top of it. Floors made of sufficiently thick boards will look respectable if they are varnished, waxed or of high quality paint.

Floor board installation

Having chosen the boards of the required thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option for laying boards is in the direction of natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, planning the laying of the board should begin with marking and fixing the lag.

The floor boards have different types connections:

1. Connection using an insert-liner in the grooves of two boards.

2. Groove-thorn connection in the presence of tongue-and-groove boards.

3. Connection "in a quarter".

The last type of connection is the easiest to install, so floorboards with such an attachment are most often used. In addition, the "quarter" connection creates a single coating with almost imperceptible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.

Boards can be fixed to two ways of fastening:

Nails or self-tapping screws can be driven into the groove located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the cap recessed into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the spike.

In the second option, nails or self-tapping screws are driven in or screwed into the front plane of the board.

Starting to install floorboards, it is necessary to step back from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, a strip of insulation is laid in this gap, and closed with an installed plinth. It is necessary for the tree to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.

The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats are driven under zatay”, later they are sealed with putty matched to the color of the wood.
If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period that lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and shrink, gaps will increase between the boards, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of relaying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the joists, but only the fifth - seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be shifted, pressed as tightly as possible to each other and nailed to the logs.

If boards with a tenon-groove connection are chosen, for a tighter connection, a mallet is used, with which, through the bar, the spikes are driven into the grooves. Often, special clamps are used for this master, especially in cases where, due to the slight curvature of the boards, the installation goes with smearing the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
For a tight connection of the last board, installed against the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven in between the wall and the board.
The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some kind of roughness remains on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, the spike must be adjusted to the groove.

Find out and also review the causes of squeaking and how to fix it, from our new article.

Video: flooring with clamps

flooring prices

Floor coverings

Floor surface treatment after final laying

After the floor has been sorted out and secured, it may be necessary to scrape its surface. This process is carried out if, during the drying of the board, it led a little, and the surface became uneven.

The starting varnish helps to reveal insufficiently smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find roughness and carry out their additional sanding.

After grinding, skirting boards are installed, which will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floor boards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the plinth, then they are sealed with putty to match the color of the wood.

Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can proceed to the final coating of the surface with wax, oil, varnish or paint.

The plank flooring is covered with a finishing compound not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also to protect it, which means maximum long-term operation.

Oil treatment

If the boards have a beautiful pronounced textured pattern, then special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floors warmer, not as slippery as when coated, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates into the structure of the wood and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.

Wood coated with oil is less susceptible to various damages, and existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the living room.

Floors that are covered with oil must be protected from dust until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care. by special means. It is very important to remember that it is not recommended to place furniture with metal legs on such a surface, as there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.

Oil flooring is recommended in rooms with high humidity is a bathroom, terrace and kitchen. Such a coating is also well suited for a hallway or corridor, since boards impregnated with such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.

There are flooring compositions that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax to it, which gives the floor a matte, soft sheen. Pure oils are also applied to the surface of wood, they are well absorbed into the surface, economical in application and do not require a long wait to dry.

Floor oil can be colorless, or it can have different shades that make the wood darker or give it a special, pleasant and warm color.

The oil is applied in two or three doses. It can be rubbed or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create an uneven coating.

The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs the oil, the more layers will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the tree, and such a coating lasts much longer than with a cold application method.

Waxing the floor surface

Wax is most often combined with an oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax and linseed oil. Such a coating protects the floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from moisture absorption, but will not protect the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. Wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte sheen and a golden hue.

Wax is applied to the cleaned floor with a wide roller in several layers. The first of them must be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the composition and sanded again.

Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly topcoat and is very good for use in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone such processing has the properties to "breathe", so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.

Wood floor varnishing

The varnish can be applied by brush, roller or trowel at room temperature, moderate humidity and without drafts.
On the cleaned surface, the first layer is applied nitrolac, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied in a thin layer along the textured wood pattern. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
After the primer dries, the surface is well sanded with sandpaper. After that, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
After that, proceed to the application of finishing layers. There can be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and polished.

Applying varnish to floors is a rather complicated undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a particular type of wood. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select necessary materials.

The lacquer coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is undesirable to walk on thin heels or move furniture on it. In addition, varnishes are most often produced on chemical bases, which, by clogging the pores of wood, do not allow it to “breathe”.

Staining a wooden floor

IN Lately paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but it still happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is chosen. In addition, paint is used in cases where it is necessary to cover a not very attractive view of wood, since such a coating completely covers the floor surface. For such finishing, you can choose paints on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.

Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, as they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always the opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.

Enamels and other based paints chemical solvents also used for living rooms, but after their application, the premises require prolonged ventilation, as these fumes can pose a threat to human health.

Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are coated with a special primer. For the rest of the coating materials, preparation of the base is required with the help of impregnating compounds, in which drying oil usually acts as the main component.

The paint can be applied in one, two coats or, in last resort , at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the “golden mean”, since the paint, applied too thin, will quickly begin to wear out, and thick, on the contrary, peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must dry well before the next is applied.

It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.

So, if you have the basic concepts of working with wood, as well as the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to try to lay the floors from boards or plywood on your own. If you have any questions, you can always turn for clarification and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - another interesting video on the technology of laying a wooden floor.

Video: how to prepare and lay a wooden floor

Wooden flooring is a classic solution in construction and renovation. No modern composite materials can replace home warmth and ecological cleanliness of wood. Despite the fact that wood loses to concrete or composites in terms of strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will be popular with builders for a long time to come. Floor device in wooden house worked out by many generations, so it should not cause any problems even for not very experienced craftsmen.

It is possible to arrange the floor in a wooden structure using various technologies. Consider the procedure for performing work, the materials, tools and equipment used in this case.

The scheme of the floor in a house made of wood on pillars

Building a floor of this design is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or load-bearing beams in the walls of your house for building a floor. In this case, the floor will be constructed according to a free "floating" scheme and will not be connected in any way with the external walls of the building. Also, this floor design is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a high level of soil water.

Flooring in a wooden house of this design can be divided into two types.

Single wooden plank flooring. This type of floor is the easiest to build and further use and repair. It is recommended to use this design in small cottages in summer cottages built for seasonal use.
double floor. This type of floor is built in buildings designed for year-round use. When using this technology, two floorings are built: black and fine, in the interval between them insulation from heat loss and moisture penetration is placed.

The technology of building a floor in houses made of wooden materials on supports

Step 1. Excavate the ground in your subfloor space. The pit must be dug more than half a meter deep from the lower level of the planned floor. In a dug pit, place a pillow of crushed stone, gravel or river sand cleaned of organic matter. It is recommended that the top edge of the cushion rise above the ground level in the area near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.

Step 2 Support pillars for the floor can be formed from red burnt bricks. So, if you plan to lay the floor on supports 25 centimeters high, then it optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. With a support height of more than 25 centimeters, the pillar is placed in two bricks.

There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, you can place monolithic concrete pillars. In this case, the concrete mortar is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which a metal frame of reinforcement is mounted.

Concrete mortar can also be poured into vertically installed and deepened into a gravel cushion segments of asbestos-cement pipes, inside which a frame of reinforcement is also placed.

In any case, when choosing a technology for erecting support pillars, it is necessary to pay attention to their uniform upper level. The best control device is a laser level or level. The distance between the pillars-supports horizontally and vertically is about a meter.

Step 3 A layer of waterproofing is laid on each pillar-support. The easiest way to do this is to use two combined layers of sheet insulation, such as roofing felt.

Step 4.A wooden plate 30 mm thick is placed on the waterproofing layer.

Step 5.Lag beams are laid on the support pillars. Usually they are built from a thick wooden beam, cut down from coniferous wood and treated with an antiseptic. The connection points of the lag should fall on the pillars. During construction, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the log. You can adjust the position of the lag with the help of counter wedges. Depending on the width of the wooden boards used in the construction of the floor, the distance between adjacent logs can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.

Step 6.A wooden flooring is laid on the laid logs. To create an aesthetic appearance, wooden planks it is better to lay it parallel to the directions of the light falling from the windows of the room. The first board is laid with a gap of up to 15 mm from the wall. Then this space will be closed with a plinth, but the gap will ensure the movement of air into the underground space.

Step 7.Solid wood boards are fastened to joists with nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should be twice the thickness of the board. Nails are hammered under a slope so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the plane of the interface between the board and the supporting log. The optimal angle of inclination is 30-45 degrees to the vertical. Nail heads are completely sunk into the board by blows from the sharp side of the hammer. Then, after the puttying and painting process, the nail heads will disappear from view.

We nail the boards with nails at an acute angle

Step 8.A plinth rail is nailed over the boards along the perimeter of the walls. Near the two opposite walls of the room, a temporary plinth is mounted, which is fixed a couple of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation until the final drying of the array of boards, and then they will be closed with a permanent baseboard.

Please note that in the event that a room with a floor on concrete or brick pillars will not be heated in winter time, supports can "lead" and geometry wooden structure the floor is broken. A layer of slag can give additional thermal insulation to the underground space, but there must be a space of at least 5 centimeters between its upper edge and the wooden floor to ensure ventilation.

How to Build a Single Plank Floor in a Wooden House

If, when building walls in a wooden house, you provided for the laying of support beams, then the most affordable way to build a floor would be to lay a single plank floor. Usually the gap between the support beams is at least a meter.

Logs for laying the floor are mounted on top of the support bars. For their construction are used wooden bars with a side of 50-60 millimeters. The distance between the joists depends on the width of the tongue-and-groove board used for laying the floor:
- if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between the lags should be no more than half a meter;
- if you are using a grooved board with a thickness of 400 mm or more, then optimal distance between the lags will be 50-60 centimeters.
When laying the lathing from the log, be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper level of the bars. It is advisable to use a laser or conventional building level for this, adjusting the height of the log with the help of counter wedges knocked under it.
Logs are fixed to the supporting beams by means of long nails or carpentry staples.

The plank floor of a single structure is laid directly on the logs. For laying the finishing floor in one layer, a tongue-and-groove board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one, adjusted by tapping with a mallet, and then nailed to the log with a long nail that enters the body of the board at a slight slope. The heads of the nails are recessed into the body of the board. If you plan to place a finishing floor covering on the floor in one layer, then it is possible to use unedged boards.

Finished tongue and groove flooring is sanded and then varnished or painted. A finishing decorative coating, such as linoleum, is laid on the draft floor layer.

It's very fast and affordable way floor structures in a wooden structure. However, the thermal insulation of this design leaves much to be desired and in a house designed for year-round use, it is better to build a double floor structure.

We build a floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Unlike a single floor, a double floor consists of two layers: finishing and rough.

Step 1

Logs are mounted on the support bearing beams, to which cranial additional bars are nailed.

Step 2

On the cranial additional bars in the transverse direction, the boards of the rough layer of the flooring are nailed. You can use unedged softwood boards of various thicknesses (15-45 mm). Before laying the boards are treated with an antiseptic. The boards to be laid are tightly fitted to each other so that minimal gaps remain.

Step 3

A layer of vapor barrier made of durable polyethylene is laid on the rough flooring. Its stripes overlap.

Step 5

Logs are laid on the draft floor. Their height is selected depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).

Step 6

Between the lags is an insulating layer. The choice of material for insulation depends solely on your budget and preferences:

rolled mineral wool roll;
foamed polymer boards (for example, polystyrene foam);
a layer of backfill material, such as expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust;
underfloor heating piping system.

Step 7

Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer. If you are building a warm water floor in the thickness of a wooden one, the top layer of waterproofing is not used. When constructing a floor with passive thermal insulation, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left between the upper edge of the thermal insulation layer.

Step 8

Groove boards are laid on top of this entire “sandwich”. The technology for their installation has already been described above.

Step 9

In the corners of the room during installation are left ventilation holes with a cross section of about 5 centimeters, which are closed decorative grilles. The surface of the gratings rises above the floor by a couple of centimeters. This elevation protects the grate from moisture.

The underground is also ventilated through the windows in the basement walls. In winter, all types of ventilation windows are blocked.

Features of the construction of the floor on the first floor of wooden buildings

When arranging the floor on the lower first or basement floor wooden house over unheated basements there are certain features.

Cold floor located directly on the ground (no underground)

A cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground) is built if there is dry soil under the house and if the floor of the first floor of the building is high. The underground of such a floor consists of 4 layers:

compacted sand cushion;
dry, clean, calcined sand;
log (beams from coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in a poured soil base and resting on recesses in the outer walls of the room;
single plank flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with unheated underground space

The procedure for the construction of an insulated floor with an unheated underground space

Placement in the underground of a pillow made of compacted sand cleaned of organic matter (thickness 10-15 cm).
Installation of support posts with a height of at least half a meter. A very simple and economical way to install supports is to pour concrete mortar into vertical pipe sections with metal frame inside.
Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
Placement of wooden dies with a thickness of 30 mm.
Laying load-bearing beams.
In order to carry out thermal insulation of the floor using this technology, slats (about 15 mm in cross section) are nailed to the side ends of the log, on which a draft floor layer of cut unedged boards is laid.
On the draft layer of the flooring is laid vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation (the flooring level is just below the finishing floor). On top of the beams, a plank floor or a covering of wood-based panels is laid.

Cold floor with heated underfloor space

A cold floor with a heated underground space is used in construction on soils with low level soil water. The technology of its installation coincides with the previous one, up to the installation stage of the subfloor. After installing the lag, a finishing floor is mounted on top of them without creating a heat-insulating layer.

Watch the instructional video to learn more about the construction steps.

Video - Floor device in a wooden house

When choosing flooring in a private house, the climatic conditions of the region, the features of the layout and the purpose of the premises are taken into account. Types of floors: concrete, dry screed, wood. Unlike an apartment, a cottage does not require permission to install a water heater. warm base. For its installation, it is necessary to make calculations, lay pipes and connect them to the heating system. The heated substrate makes it possible to save on heating.

What is the best cover to choose?

One of the stages of building a house is the installation of the floor. When choosing its design, they take into account operating conditions, materials, the financial capabilities of the owner, and the interior. You can make floors in a private house:

wooden;
concrete;
with a base of dry screed;
warm.

Wooden bases are popular due to the environmental friendliness and availability of the material. They retain heat well and are pleasant to the touch. Easy to clean, repair, have a beautiful appearance, do not require finishing. They are often arranged on the first floor, as the coldest.

A single plank floor has simple design: lumber is attached directly to the logs. The main disadvantage of such a coating is the limited use, it is laid in dachas, in summer houses with seasonal residence, non-residential premises. For a house in which it is planned to live year-round, a double wooden floor is arranged, consisting of a base, a rough and a finishing coating. The disadvantage of wood is susceptibility to decay, fungi and pests. To protect against them, the material is treated with special means.

Concrete flooring is popular due to its low cost. Filling can be done with your own hands, if you know the basics and have building experience. One of the disadvantages is that it takes a long time to dry the screed. Concrete is cold, so the base should be insulated. At the final stage, installation of the floor covering is necessary. Depending on the purpose of the room, it can be tile, laminate, linoleum, carpet.

A dry screed is mounted faster, it makes it possible to create additional thermal insulation, put any floor covering on top.

Warm floors are popular due to their efficiency and high efficiency. They save on heating costs. They can be made the main source of heating or combined with radiators. The cheapest to operate is a water-cooled base heated by a gas boiler. The option with electric heating is thinner than with water heating, it is easier to install, quickly turns on and off, and is more convenient to adjust.

Wooden floor decking

In order for the floor in a private house to serve for many years, it is necessary to choose high-quality wood. Flooring experiences significant mechanical stress, so lumber is chosen with high technological characteristics. It should be well dried, with a moisture content of no more than 12%. Deformations, cracks and chips on the surface are unacceptable. Experts recommend using conifers: cedar, pine, fir, larch.

To protect against fungus and pests, the tree is coated with an antiseptic, and treated with a flame retardant to increase fire safety.

The floor device includes logs, subfloor, rough and finish coating, heat and waterproofing. The subfloor performs the function of an air gap that prevents the accumulation of moisture. Without it, the tree will quickly become worthless.

Installation consists of the following steps:

1. First install the support pillars. They can be brick, foam blocks, etc.
2. Then removed fertile layer soil, gravel is poured, a pillow of sand is arranged on top. Each layer is carefully compacted.
3. At the next stage, waterproofing is laid, fixed at the ends of the supporting pillars (roofing material is used).
4. Next with metal corners fix logs from edged timber.
5. The space between the beams is filled with a heat insulator. Experts recommend using mineral wool.
6. After laying the insulation on the support beam, a rough coating is mounted. The boards are laid tightly to each other so that there are no gaps. They are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.
7. An air gap of 1.5 cm is left along the perimeter between the walls and the flooring for ventilation, as well as to protect the walls from the expansion of the floor boards when dried.
8. A vapor barrier layer of polyethylene film is laid on the rough coating. The joints of the strips are additionally fixed with adhesive tape. The edges are wrapped on the walls (about 20 cm).
9. When the vapor barrier layer is fixed, a finishing coating of boards, parquet, cork is mounted.

The wooden floor may have a concrete base. To avoid height differences, it is made using a self-leveling mixture. Then they lay a waterproofing layer, mark the floor under the logs, mount the studs for their fastening. The beams are laid in increments of at least 60 cm, having previously drilled holes in them for the fixing material. The free space is filled with insulation. A finishing floor or plywood is placed on top, on which a decorative coating is laid.

How to make a concrete screed?

The device of the concrete floor is being carried out in stages. The foundation is being prepared: garbage, plants are removed, the top layer of soil is removed. Then the markup is done. It is more convenient to use a laser level for this. It is installed at the bottom of the doorway and marks are drawn on the walls that determine the line of the future floor. To measure the level in the center of the room, nails are hammered into the walls, according to the markup, and twine is pulled.

Next is the gravel backfill. Pegs are installed so that they are 10 cm below the future level of the cement screed. They begin to pour gravel from the wall opposite the door. When the area is completely filled up to the height of the pegs, the latter are removed. A pillow of sand is arranged on top of the gravel. Both layers are well compacted.

At the next stage, waterproofing is made of polyethylene with a thickness of at least 250 microns. It is necessary to protect against moisture. The film is laid so that its edges go onto the walls 10-15 cm above the cement screed. All seams of polyethylene strips are connected with construction tape, proceed to pouring.

With the help of the level, beacons are set from wooden slats with a step of 1-1.5 m. The rail with the upper edge should touch the stretched twine. After installing the beacons, the ropes are removed. For a concrete screed, only fresh mortar is taken, which is prepared from cement grade not lower than M300, sand and water. Plasticizers are added to make concrete stronger. If its thickness exceeds 5 cm, reinforcement is performed.

Before pouring, a special mesh or reinforcement is laid on the waterproofing layer. Start concreting from the far wall, filling the space between the first two slats. Then, using the rule, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed. When the concrete sets a little, the slats are removed. The resulting voids are filled with mortar and leveled with a trowel for plaster.

After sealing the cracks, the concrete is covered with plastic wrap and left to dry for 3-4 weeks. Experts recommend during drying at intervals of several days to remove polyethylene and moisten the coating. This procedure will allow him not to crack and gain maximum strength.

On the concrete screed lay laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles, cork.

Underfloor heating secrets

The increasing popularity is gained by a warm water floor. It can serve as the basis for heating or maintain comfortable living conditions. It depends on the overall heat loss, the climate in the area, and the design features of a private house. They are not suitable for wooden flooring, as wood does not conduct heat well. The best way- cement strainer. A concrete floor with water heating is used for the first, basement floors, if the base is a sand cushion.

Do-it-yourself installation of underfloor heating begins with the preparation of the base, it must be even without recesses and protrusions. Permissible difference value - 5 mm. If defects in height or depth exceed 1-2 cm, a leveling layer of fine gravel with a grain size of not more than 5 mm is poured.

The device of warm floors is carried out according to two methods: a snail and a spiral. In option 1, the entire surface is evenly heated. The spiral ensures best heating in colder areas. Therefore, the first hot branches are mounted in this zone. According to the drawing of the laying scheme, the required length of the pipes is calculated.

For a thermal floor only a solid pipe is used. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, several heating circuits are mounted, each of which should not exceed 100 m2, so that there is enough pressure to circulate the coolant.

use better metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. For thermal insulation, a heater with a thickness of at least 5 cm is laid on the base. If the base is soil, or the floor below is a cold room, the insulating layer is made 10 cm. To reduce heat loss, a metallized film is laid over the heat insulator, which acts as a reflective screen. It also requires protection, so polyethylene (75-100 microns) is laid on top. The strips of the film are overlapped, fastening the seams with construction tape.

Pipes are fixed with fasteners: metal mesh, slats, plastic staples. Filling is carried out after the laying is completed, the connection to the collectors is made, and the system is filled with a coolant at a pressure of 4 bar. A damper tape is laid along the perimeter to compensate for expansion, to insulate the floor from walls, and to eliminate cold bridges through which heat is lost.

Before concreting, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on top of the pipes, if strips and brackets were used as fasteners. A concrete screed is made from 5 to 10 cm, there must be at least 3 cm of solution above the pipe. With insufficient thickness, cracking of the surface is possible, with an excess, heat loss is inevitable. While the concrete sets, it is covered with plastic wrap to maintain normal humidity. Completely screed freezes 28 days.

Dry screed - an alternative to cement coating

A floor based on a dry screed is mounted faster than wood or concrete. It is important to choose high-quality bulk material: slag, silica, perlite or quartz sand, fine-grained expanded clay.

If the mixture is correctly distributed over the area, it almost does not shrink, it is a good heat and sound insulator. Such foundations, if well executed, will last a long time.

Phased installation begins with a polyethylene film waterproofing device. The material is laid with an overlap on the walls of 10-15 cm. Then beacons are installed, which will serve as a guide for alignment. The dry mixture is poured onto the base and distributed evenly over the surface using the rule. To prevent the mass from crumbling, wooden partitions are installed at a distance of 60-80 cm.

Lay dry screed on top sheet materials: plywood, moisture-resistant GVP boards, etc. In order for the surface to be even, it is important to correctly lay the first sheet using the level, and then the rest, focusing on it. Installation starts from the door, moving along the wall so as not to disturb the evenness of the embankment. At the same time, the plates are not pressed into the poured mixture, they are carefully moved along the surface. Horizontalness is checked by the building level. The areas to be covered are well compacted in front of the flooring, especially in places of significant loads.

Gypsum-fiber boards are connected with the help of folds located on them. Finished sheets are laid on the mixture, shifting each next half, as when laying bricks, to increase stability. To do flooring more durable, a second one is arranged on top of the first layer, and its sheets should lie perpendicular to the bottom ones. The top and bottom layers are fastened with glue and self-tapping screws. Fasteners are screwed under load, the role of which is played by the weight of the master, who has become on the top sheet. On the doorways, the material is not joined; the canvas should be in both rooms.

After installation, the joints and heads of the self-tapping screws are puttied to level the surface. Front finishing around the perimeter of the room in places where the coating adheres to the walls, a waterproofing material, for example, a sealant, is applied. In the bathroom before decorative trim The boards are coated with waterproofing.