Floor insulation in a wooden house from below: material selection, step-by-step instructions and tips. Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a wooden house What is the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

One of the problems of living in a private house made of wood is a cold floor. The fact is that air currents of low temperature go down, coolness also comes from the earth. Warming will help to make the home cozy, warm and comfortable, to protect it from freezing. floor covering performed using a variety of materials.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below

It is known that the house is the fortress of every person, so it should always feel cozy and warm. One of the ways to transform a living space is to insulate the floor in wooden house from below. To get a positive result, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the range of products for insulation, find out the features, choose the best option and complete the installation.

The installation of a thermal insulation layer is distinguished by several specific nuances:

  1. Two-layer floor insulation is required in a wooden house from below. It is necessary to reduce the loss of heat leaving through the draft bottom. As a rule, the floor is made of ordinary boards that fit together. The surface will suffer from strong exposure to moisture and low temperatures from the ground, so building materials must be treated with special equipment in advance.
  2. Given the fact that wood absorbs liquid well, waterproofing will be needed. Before starting to insulate a wooden floor, it is recommended to lay a one-sided fiber.
  3. Products for floor insulation in a wooden house from below should not change their characteristics when in contact with wood.

What insulation is better for the floor in a wooden house

Very often, consumers think about what material is more profitable to use to insulate a cold floor in a wooden house from below. The choice of insulation depends on such factors: the size of the room, the type of surface, the type of wood, the climate, the price. Needless to say, it's expensive. finishing material not always the best in quality and may simply not be suitable for a particular building. To make the right choice, it is recommended to find out what kind of warming floor materials, to study their characteristics, advantages.

Thermal insulation materials

The range of modern thermal insulation is very wide. Products may differ in dimensions, characteristics, installation technologies, and so on. Insulation of floors in a wooden house is often carried out with such building materials: mineral wool, expanded clay, penofol, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene), polyurethane foam, sawdust, penoplex. The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the individual preferences of the owner of the building and the characteristics of the flooring. How to insulate the floor in a wooden house during the construction or repair of a dwelling?

Mineral wool

Cold wood flooring is often insulated with mineral wool. This type of seal is available as elastic mats or durable panels. The material must be laid in a single layer. The main advantages of mineral wool:

  • high sound and heat insulation;
  • long term of practical use;
  • fire resistance and high humidity;
  • affordable cost;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • such a heater is resistant to damage: mechanical and chemical influences.

polyurethane foam

Perfect fit wooden floor a seal whose pores are closed with air and gas for insulation is polyurethane foam. This cellular material has a small mass, but retains heat well. Such a heater is most resistant to the formation of fungus, mold, is not afraid of decay, and is not affected by acids. Polyurethane foam is applied using special equipment and has good adhesion (adhesion to the surface). Thanks to the use of this type of thermal insulation, it is possible to insulate the floor of any shape without the formation of joints.

Styrofoam

Thermal insulation of floors using polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) has a large number of advantages. The structure of the material provides a low level of vapor permeability and thermal conductivity, fire resistance, reliability, resistance to chemical and biological factors. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life and retains its characteristics for a long time. The main disadvantage is that the sealant absorbs a certain amount of liquid, which may affect some properties.

Penoplex

The wooden floor is also insulated with foam plastic - a very light homogeneous polymer material that does not exert a load on the base of the building. It is obtained by extrusion - forcing molten raw materials through the molding recess of the extruder (special equipment). Penoplex is very durable, resistant to low temperatures, durable, characterized by minimal moisture absorption and combustion.

Expanded clay

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor can be carried out using expanded clay - loose, porous products, which consist of small round balls. Insulation is produced by burning slate or clay in a special furnace. Expanded clay to preserve the heat of a wood floor is a durable and environmentally friendly material. It has high rates of sound insulation, fire resistance, frost resistance. There is one significant disadvantage: after a certain period of time, expanded clay is compacted under the weight of its own weight and loses the quality of thermal insulation.

Penofol

Roll-type insulation for a wooden floor, which is made of polyethylene foam, which is covered with aluminum foil on top, is penofol. Such a sealant is not very thick (3-10 mm), but it conducts heat well and does not need additional vapor barrier. Due to its composition, penofol has several disadvantages: rust can “eat” the foil, and polyethylene loses strength over time.

Installation technology

Reliable and effective option insulation installation for wood flooring from below is the installation along the logs - transverse boards (beams), on which the flooring is located.

  1. First, logs are attached to the brick foundation, the distance between which should be 1-1.2 meters (as in the photo).
  2. Chipboard or thick plywood is mounted on the bars from below using self-tapping screws. This is necessary for laying thermal insulation.
  3. Insulating material is laid out on the surface between the lags. The thickness of this layer of thermal insulation can be varied, so you need to focus on the dimensions of the transverse boards (lag).
  4. Waterproofing (for example, a plastic film) is laid on top of the sealant. This type of material is not always used, because some types of insulation are themselves resistant to moisture.
  5. The final stage of installation is the installation of elements of the old or new wooden floor covering on the ground floor.

There are several floor systems for wooden house, both typical and quite specific. Today we will analyze the most popular of them in terms of the most profitable way of warming. Let's talk about materials, cake and carrier system.

Classic floor plan

Initially, the floors in wooden houses were bulk, which did not have a very good effect on the life of the residents and the efficiency of cleaning. Therefore, they began to deepen the floor inside the house and prepare a dense incompressible bedding. Logs or sleepers were laid on top of it with a half-wood cut and a staggered dressing pattern, and a plank shield of the main covering was already laid on top, which was then leveled, along the way filling up the cracks.

Such a floor, for all the simplicity of its device, has one drawback: it is cold and slightly better in terms of heat saving. open ground. Therefore, more and more often a system of transverse lathing or undermining under beams began to be arranged for free air circulation. The floor did not adjoin the walls and the stove closely, due to which room air circulated under it, equalizing the temperature difference between the wood and the soil to an average value of 15-20 ºС.

Unfortunately, this approach works only with the abundance and availability of fuel. Modern systems fireplace and radiator heating, designed to save energy, do not provide proper heating. In addition, the floor level in the house was below ground level, which caused trouble during the floods, and the need for free circulation near the walls did not allow the junction to be closed with a plinth.

Yet such primitive systems provided the basis for two typical wood flooring techniques that find their way into most building projects. Their main difference is the use of highly efficient insulation techniques, which would be impossible without a well-thought-out carrier system that allows you to correctly place and fix the heat-insulating material without losing the height of the premises.

Floor with subfloor on piles

It is possible to slow down the transfer of heat from the wooden flooring to the ground by increasing the air gap and covering the ground with even a small layer of material that does not transfer heat well.

The floor in this case is arranged in the same way as floating on a continuous backfill, but at the same time, a rigid support is installed under each intersection of the lag. V modern construction the implementation of such a system is undertaken by piles: screw or manufactured using TISE technology.

At the same time, the ground in the building is significantly underestimated, which is quite normal for an old, well-established log house without a foundation with logs in girth. In a more modern MZLF, exposing one face of the foundation is unacceptable - twisting and lateral loads arise, for which working reinforcement is almost never provided. Therefore, the floor log system is installed in two levels: the first with bars in the spacer inside the tape, and the second with boards on the edge, over the tape and the log.

If heating the subfloor by circulation room air not planned, the top row of logs is covered with synthetic burlap, supported by planks stuffed on the bottom row. Insulation, including loose insulation, can be placed in the cells of the floor lag. If necessary, to increase its thickness, a counter-lattice is stuffed.

To reduce the volume of removed soil and support the foundation, a dump meter wide and 40-50 cm high is left under it, but not closer than 20 cm to the back surface of the boards. As a heat-cutting fill, either expanded clay or perlite mixed with lime, or more can be used. natural materials. For example, reeds, straw or moss, dried and sprinkled with dry sand, then laid on a layer of waterproofing.

Floor frame system

When constructing a wooden house on a pile-grillage foundation, the option with an underground disappears by itself. It requires a system that is able to securely lock the heat inside and allow the use of underfloor heating even under the influence of natural convection.

The problem is solved by installing a crown of logs on the foundation, knocked down like a frame for a floating floor: with a hem and a run. These logs play the role of a second grillage, but their cell is smaller - about 100-120 cm versus 4-5 meters for concrete beams under bearing walls. When laying logs on top of the grillage, they are separated by several layers of waterproofing and a windproof membrane with good vapor permeability is stretched.

The next task is to knock the wind protection with slats to the bottom surface of the log. Although you can get to the lags through the ventilation gap under the grillage, working in cramped conditions and in poor lighting is another challenge. Do not fasten the planks with self-tapping screws, they will wind the wind protection around themselves. Instead, take a 10 mm shingle and small ruff nails.

The floor insulation has the same thickness as the logs of the wooden grillage. Here, a mineral filler with a low density is usually used, in classic version this is several layers of rolled wool. To support heavier materials, the cell can be upholstered from the inside with a polymer mesh or wired around press washers.

1 - strips of filing wind protection; 2 - logs; 3 - wind protection; 4 - mineral insulation; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - sandwich panel

With a thickness of beams from 120 mm, after laying the insulation, they can be covered with a vapor barrier, and then the floor can be laid with sandwich panels with a mineral or polymer core. In the floor system, logs from boards on the edge can also be provided if the thickness of the insulation is not enough according to the results of the heat calculation.

Floor in bathrooms

The biggest problem in a wooden house is the need to cast a preparatory screed. And if for floor heating the accumulating screed is cast after the installation of a compensation layer over the subfloor with total waterproofing, then how to underestimate the floor in the bathroom by the required 50 mm?

It is impossible to do without intervention in the floor system. In frame houses, the bathroom is arranged in a separate grillage cell, but it is cast deaf, possibly with transverse ribs. The depth of the cell should be sufficient for the bookmark the right amount synthetic insulation, wiring of the wastewater system and, at least partially, rough plumbing.

Then there is the classic scheme of the frame floor with a screed: logs and flooring or SIP, waterproofing, pouring a cement-sand mixture or expanded clay concrete with lightweight reinforcement. A separate plus of such a system is the ability to easily arrange a common drain for the floor.

1 - cranial bar; 2 - boardwalk; 3 - lag; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - OSB flooring; 7 - waterproofing; 8 - reinforced screed

In houses on strip foundation the same principle. If the walls of the bathroom are capital, at least a tape is poured under them, separating the insulated screed in the bathroom from the main floor system. If we are talking about prefabricated partitions, they are built on the flooring of the subfloor, the end is closed with a board and again an insulated screed is poured over the ground.

The difference in the use of heaters

Since mineral and polymer foam insulation are now being promoted by manufacturers equally diligently, the specifics of working with them are modestly silent. The key criteria for choosing a material for insulation are resistance to heat transfer, resistance to wetting, fire hazard and the likelihood of pests settling under the floor.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam provide benefits in terms of durability and insulation efficiency. They can harmlessly take over the dew point, even when sealed in a cake. The only negative is the price: insulation will cost about a third more, and the more affordable PSB is toxic when heated and requires protection from rodents.

Mineral insulation is very sensitive to moisture saturation. If they are operated at the border of two temperatures, then from the side of the room they must be insulated with a vapor barrier and limit the circulation of street air through the wool.

A self-built house is the pride of every owner. In such a house, everything is done for a convenient and comfortable life. In order to be warm and comfortable in any weather, you should carefully consider all stages of construction, especially laying the floor. A wooden house should be warm in frosty winters and cool in hot summers.

Even the most professional and solid flooring work leaves small gaps between the boards, which inevitably leads to heat loss, and also disrupts the air circulation under the logs, which is necessary in a wooden structure. Through such slots, up to 30% of heat escapes, which will significantly lower the room temperature and increase energy consumption for heating.

Helpful information:

The choice of material and the calculation of its required thickness

Before you buy material for thermal insulation, carefully study the existing range. Of great importance here will be what it is made of, standard sizes, properties, brand-manufacturer. Keep in mind that the material in mats will have a greater density and elasticity than in rolls. Consider the thermal conductivity of the material, its specific gravity, dimensional stability and vapor permeability. Many manufacturers place this information on the packaging of their products.

Several formulas will have to be applied. Calculation of the required thickness of thermal insulation \u003d RxA. Values ​​for coefficient R(total thermal resistance building structure), you can see in the tables to the application of SNiP "Thermal protection of buildings". Construction norms and rules - a set of basic regulatory requirements and provisions. There you can peep all the values ​​of interest. For example, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient is A. The collection of all parameters should be carried out taking into account the requirements of SNiPa. It is necessary to calculate the parameters of the permissible load on the floor. In the tables you will also find values ​​for calculating the so-called temporary loads (furniture, equipment, people and animals). The total height of the entire structure is calculated. Humidity and temperature inside the house are taken into account. You can also use the online calculator to calculate.

The main stages of work on floor insulation

  1. Installation of a structure with wooden logs on a leveled floor surface
  2. Installation of waterproofing and rough flooring from boards or shields
  3. Laying insulation between the lags (filling the joints mounting foam or sealant)
  4. Laying material that provides reliable vapor barrier
  5. Production of wooden flooring, on which you can then mount the final finish.

The insulation layer is "sewn" between the layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier.
The vapor barrier will protect the thermal insulation from the formation of condensate and steam from inside premises. The vapor barrier material is a film, which is additionally fixed with a special metal tape. There are the following types of film vapor barrier: polyethylene and polypropylene.

When used for wooden floors, the film material needs an air gap.

Polyethylene film vapor barrier

  • Perforated film (can be used as a waterproofing barrier)
  • Non-perforated film (for vapor barrier in wooden houses, not tear resistant)
  • With an aluminum layer (for rooms with high humidity)
  • Reinforced (a reinforced layer is placed between two layers of polyethylene)

Polypropylene vapor barrier

  • Non-reinforced film (cheap, but not practical material)
  • Reinforced film (viscose and cellulose - an additional reinforcing reinforced layer). During installation, it is laid with a reinforced layer down.

The vapor barrier is installed on the logs using any available fasteners.

Features of floor insulation without lag

In the absence of a lag, an additional screed is poured onto the floor surface. It will level the surface and remove all possible irregularities.

  • Laying waterproofing. We choose affordable and economical products. We focus on reliability and ease of use. Suitable traditional roofing felt and roofing material, bitumen-containing roll materials.
  • We fall asleep a layer of expanded clay of the middle fraction. Thermal insulation can be carried out using expanded perlite or vermiculite. A thin layer of such materials will also create good sound insulation. Vermeculite can also have a sheet form of release. Agloporite is not a very economical option. Environmentally friendly material is sawdust. They are hygroscopic, surpass expanded clay in the quality of thermal insulation, are not combustible and prevent decay. Treated with a special composition with an antiseptic, even at high humidity, such a filler will remain dry. Industrial slag is the most cheap material thermal insulation. There are certain requirements for the content of ash and coal in waste, for their subsequent use as a heat insulator.
  • Above - an additional layer of rolled waterproofing. With the help of rails, we set the height of the insulation layer.
    In a small room, it will be enough to place the slats only around the perimeter of the room.

Ways to insulate the floor in a wooden house with a basement

A rather laborious process, it is most convenient to disassemble it in stages.

  • Mounting the crate
    Lathing bars 5x5 mm., Attached to the beam of the base of the floor.
  • Laying boards of the draft layer
    Small gaps are allowed. Boards of the draft layer should not completely cover the ceiling joists.
  • Waterproofing pad
  • Insulation sheets
  • vapor barrier
  • Finishing layer of the final finish

This installation is suitable for houses with a basement or underground, where there are no sub-zero temperatures.

The most popular is another scheme:

  • Rough layer
  • Loose insulation or sand
  • Cardboard
  • Air gap (about 3 cm.)
  • Finishing

Wooden logs can be fixed on posts (brick, concrete), installed directly on the foundation of the house, or cut into the wooden plinth of the house. Also directly on the load-bearing beams.

We warm the wooden floor in a house without a basement

Here, the foundation feature will be important. The method of installing the log and the subsequent installation of the floor will depend on it. You can insulate the soil itself, or you can put a heater in the interlag space.

In houses with a small plinth, where the height above the ground is low, you can lay the logs directly on the reinforced ground. The advantage of such a floor is that it will not give an additional load on the foundation of the house. Amplification is done with concrete screed, on which, subsequently, a lag structure is installed. The screed is best poured in several layers. Insulation, vapor barrier are laid on the waterproofing, in the space between the lags, and you can proceed with the installation of the wooden floor. As a heat insulator, you can use a roll mineral wool or expanded clay.

In the variant with a large basement distance, the logs are laid in such a way that there is an opportunity for air circulation. This creates a ventilated space that prevents the appearance of dampness in the house.

A variety of modern heaters

Fibrous insulation

Fiberglass and mineral wool are excellent heat insulators, good noise insulators. The laying of the fiber between the joists is carried out very tightly. The space between the rails should be made smaller than the width of the roll of material. The disadvantages of the material include low vapor permeability and low mechanical strength. Also, glass wool fibers shrink, and it is unsafe to work with it. Mineral wool is safe, does not shrink, but outperforms fiberglass in price. Mineral wool is laid with the marking up, that is, with the denser side. Vapor barrier in this case is not required.

organic heaters

Linen or jute fiber, in its properties very similar to mineral wool. The fibers are easy to work with and safe. They are afraid of moisture getting on the surface, as the process of decay may begin.

polyurethane foam

Can be used as a finishing touch. Applied by spraying. A fairly high price, adequate quality indicators. Such a coating will have low thermal conductivity, low water absorption, and environmental friendliness. Stability in its structure and form, durability. Quality material must be dry and free of harmful volatile impurities.

With the help of foam

Styrofoam is a dense material that reflects infrared rays well. Environmentally friendly and inexpensive. The only drawback is the instability to the environment. In enclosed spaces, the foam does not wear out and does not lose its qualities.

Bulk heaters

Easy to install. On bulk insulation, you can make flooring finishes. Not very cost effective.

Foam concrete and aerated concrete, granular concrete

The remains after construction can be used as a heater. These types have high resistance as heat retention. Granuloben is affordable and has high thermal insulator qualities. Its composition is sand, cement and pieces of foam.

The latest heaters

The range of heat insulating materials is expanding more and more.
Traditional materials give way to the latest advances. Physical and technical characteristics are becoming more and more perfect. The names of species, brands and types are huge.

Penofol

A foil reflective foam layer and a small thickness gives a result that is many times superior to conventional materials. Laid in one layer, it does an excellent job not only with the function of heat preservation, but also with waterproofing. Can serve as a vapor barrier. Long service life, ideal for use in a wooden house.
The novelty Penofol-2000 has protection on both sides in the form of aluminum foil. The efficiency of the material is much higher than that of its predecessors.

Izolon

The use of new generation materials with a uniform cellular structure will give the entire structure even greater strength and elasticity Foamed material with a cellular structure. A thin layer of such material is a heat insulator unsurpassed in its qualities. Economical in price, elementary in its use and operation. It is combined with any other materials, great for use in wooden houses. Eco-friendly.

For thin layer insulation, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which also has a foamed cellular structure, it will be a good choice. Plates made of expanded polystyrene - penoplex, will also be a good heat insulator. The material is laid on a leveled floor base, attached to it with plastic anchors. After installing such a heater, you should immediately proceed with the installation of the main floor covering.

Materials and methods for finishing the floor

For the final, fine finish of the floor, there is a large selection of different floor coverings:

  • And massive wooden boards.

In cases where it is necessary to emphasize the beauty of a wooden floor, it is advisable to use varnish. Also pay attention to the method of oiling and waxing. This treatment will protect the tree from the appearance of fungus, mold, insects and give an excellent appearance. When choosing finishing material You should pay attention to such characteristics of the material as:

  • wear resistance
  • Good acoustic properties
  • Ease and practicality in cleaning
  • Compliance with the style and interior of the house

The cost of heating a private house forces owners to be more careful and careful about the heat-saving possibilities of housing. Thermal energy leaks most often occur through the floor on the ground floor. However, costs can be reduced if the necessary measures are taken and thermal insulation is installed. Before you insulate the floor in a wooden house, you should choose the appropriate installation method and insulation for installation as a cut-off.

Purpose of floor insulation

In houses with wooden floors on the ground floor, a boundary is created between the cold outdoor and warm indoor air. Although wood itself is good insulation, the effect of low temperatures affects the overlap in a sharply negative way.

A cold floor is a surface on which condensation settles. V winter time the wooden flooring gets wet, the array begins to swell. The surface goes in humps, the boards begin to bulge. When it gets warmer, the wood dries out and begins to warp. Cracks appear, the slats unfold with a screw. In addition, mold and fungus appear on the underside of the flooring. Over time, the boards begin to rot and need to be replaced.

The solution to this problem is the installation of a heat insulator. It forms a cut-off layer separating the heated and cold rooms. Eliminates the risk of roof damage. In addition, the loss of thermal energy is reduced, the fuel consumption for heating the house is reduced. It should be noted that the insulation layer can be installed both under the flooring and on top of it.

Choosing the right option depends on several factors:

  • floor construction;
  • the presence of a basement;
  • type of insulation.

Before insulating a wooden floor in a private house, it is necessary to find out all the working points and choose the optimal type of thermal insulation.

Materials, their characteristics

In order to decide how best to insulate the floor in a wooden house, you need to carefully study the properties of existing materials. On sale there are different types of heaters with their own physical and operational qualities. Any of them can be placed under the boardwalk or installed on top of it without dismantling the old flooring. Consider the most popular options:

Expanded clay

Bulk material, which is a rounded granules. Made from baked clay. It has a porous structure, but the surface of each pellet is covered with a hermetic melt film. The main advantage of expanded clay is its durability. The backfill layer can be used multiple times per different objects, and the material will not lose its qualities. In addition, the advantages of insulation are:

  • light weight. Due to the porous structure, the mass of granules is small. This eliminates the extra load on the supporting structures even when creating a thick layer of insulation;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • resistance to temperature changes;
  • expanded clay does not burn;
  • strength, resistance to mechanical stress;
  • installation is not difficult and is easily done by hand.

For installation, it is only necessary to fill in a mass of material and level the surface, giving the layer the same thickness. However, to obtain the desired effect, a rather large thickness of the backfill is required - experts recommend laying a layer of insulation of at least 25-30 cm. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the granules. By themselves, they are airtight and not afraid of moisture, but the water that has penetrated into the thickness does not dry out for a long time.

Mineral wool

A popular and sought-after insulation used everywhere. Minvata is the collective name for a group of materials that consists of:

  • stone (basalt) wool;
  • glass wool;
  • slag, etc.

Most often, basalt wool is used, which has the most successful set of qualities. Advantages of mineral wool:

  • high thermal insulation qualities;
  • light weight;
  • resistance to fire or high temperatures;
  • there are rolled and slab forms of the material, expanding the choice;
  • durability.

However, there are also disadvantages:

  • the ability to absorb moisture, after which the insulation significantly changes its qualities;
  • support structures are required for installation, which complicates the process of insulation.

During installation, mineral wool has to be cut off on both sides from possible contact with steam or liquid water. To do this, use a waterproofing film. The waterproofing layer creates an additional operation during installation, but exclude it from technological process it is forbidden. Wet mineral wool ceases to be a heat insulator and begins to destroy all structures with which it is in contact.

Penoplex

The technical name of this insulation is. It is a hardened mass, similar in texture to polyurethane foam. Possesses high operational qualities. Penoplex advantages:

  • complete impermeability to moisture in any form;
  • low thermal conductivity, the ability to create a thermal cut-off even with a small layer thickness;
  • light weight;
  • does not support combustion;
  • durability.

A distinctive feature of penoplex is rigidity. Installation can be carried out both with additional supporting elements, and a solid canvas. The only drawback is considered to be a relatively high price, although today the cost of penoplex is noticeably lower than a few years ago.

Sawdust

Sawmill waste can be purchased literally for a penny. Often they are given away for nothing, if only the surplus is taken out. Cheapness attracts some owners of wooden houses who are trying to insulate the floor in this way. However, this option has some notable drawbacks:

  • instability to moisture;
  • the ability to rot, rot, the possibility of mold or fungus;
  • sawdust can infest insects or rodents;
  • the material shrinks and loses its qualities.

To compensate for these shortcomings, sawdust is mixed with lime, clay or cement mortar. Laying is simple - a thick layer is backfilled on a wooden floor and the surface is leveled. Sometimes slabs are made, consisting of cement mortar and lots of sawdust. Briquettes are laid tightly, without cracks and gaps, forming a continuous sheet. Overall effect from the use of sawdust is low, so in today's practice this option is quite rare.

See also: wooden houses

Styrofoam

This is another type of polystyrene foam. Unlike penoplex, this insulator consists of individual granules. They are sintered in special autoclaves under the influence of superheated steam. Styrofoam properties:

  • light weight. In this respect, the material leads among all alternatives;
  • high heat-insulating abilities;
  • ease of installation. Insulation is available in plates of different thicknesses. Can pick up right size, or use a pack of several layers;
  • resistance to water. The granules are hermetic, but there is a slight absorption of moisture into the microscopic cavities between them;
  • low price. This is a decisive factor due to which the foam is attractive in the eyes of users.

One of the features of the heat insulator should be considered a complex relationship to combustion. Manufacturers claim that the foam does not burn and does not support combustion. As proof, a video is often shown in which they unsuccessfully try to set fire to a piece of insulation with a lighter. However, in reality the situation is more complicated. The granules are filled with carbon dioxide, which does not support combustion. But, when the polystyrene is completely melted, the gas will come out, and the puddle of liquid material will burn well. This point must be taken into account when choosing a heater.

Penofol

This is a roll material obtained from polyethylene foam. An additional element is aluminum foil, which forms a reflective layer. It sends infrared (thermal) rays back into the room, which enhances the effect of using an insulator. There are several varieties of penofol, with a reflective layer on one and two sides, there are types with a sticky layer to facilitate installation. The thickness of such a heater is small, and it can be put on the floor on top of the flooring from the boards, without dismantling the old floor.

The layer of material is impervious to moisture and does not allow air to pass through. This has both positive and negative sides. When using such heaters, high-quality ventilation of the premises should be organized, otherwise water vapor will begin to settle on walls and other wooden planes.

Ecowool

Loose material that is applied by spraying using special equipment. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that the thickness of the coating layer on the wooden floor can be any and depends only on the wishes of the owner. This insulation is cellulose flakes obtained from the processing of waste paper and recycled paper. At the same time, the composition does not contribute to the appearance of rodents. In the manufacture, boric acid and borax are added to it, which repel rats and prevent the backfill layer from igniting. The main advantage of this heater is considered high heat-saving qualities. However, the material also has a number of serious drawbacks:

  • the ability to absorb moisture, which reduces the performance of the backfill layer;
  • the need for special installation equipment.

In addition, ecowool is a rather expensive material, which reduces its attractiveness among users.

Foamed polymers

A group of materials, among which types of foamed polyethylene predominate. They have a small thickness, which allows them to be used without opening the subfloor and without dismantling the flooring. Produced in different types and forms:

  • rolls;
  • mats;
  • harnesses;
  • shells (shells) for pipelines.

The scope of foamed polymer insulators is wide. They insulate both the wooden floor, and walls, and other surfaces. With high heat-saving qualities of the material, the layer thickness is small, which favorably distinguishes foamed polymer heat insulators from alternative species. They are convenient for laying under the joints of plates, allow you to insulate roof slopes, floors or ceilings, and other planes. At the same time, they have not yet received wide distribution among users, since they appeared on sale relatively recently. When deciding how to properly insulate the floor in a wooden house, you can consider this group of heaters. Their prospects are quite large, and the possibilities and properties make it possible to obtain a beneficial effect in any areas.

Foam glass

Foamed glass insulation was first created in the first half of the last century. However, in our country it is not widely used. The main reason for this was the high cost - in the manufacturing process, it is necessary to use heating of the glass mass to a melting temperature (1000 °), which increases costs. Insulation has a successful set of qualities:

  • high strength;
  • complete fire safety;
  • environmental Safety;
  • simple and convenient installation.

The disadvantages are the high weight and high cost of the insulation. Foam glass is lighter than wood, but in comparison with other types of insulation, it is noticeably heavier. If it is necessary to install large amounts of material on the floor, there is an additional load on the supporting structures, which are not always ready for this.

Fiberboard

A material representing a sandwich of two layers of thin OSB, between which there is a compressed insulation. It is a composite composed of three main components:

  • wood wool (fine fibers);
  • cement powder;
  • glue (liquid glass).

It is produced in the form of plates, which facilitates the installation of the material on the old flooring (top). A feature of fibrolite is its high ability to absorb moisture. At the same time, if the installation is carried out in several layers, the weight of the insulation increases markedly. This reduces its operational value. For installation on the floor of the lower floor, this insulation is suitable with restrictions. It is not suitable for ground floors, but can be used on upper floor slabs.

Izolon

This is another type of polyethylene foam equipped with a foil reflector. In terms of its qualities, this insulation is almost a complete analogue of penofol. Many users confuse these materials with each other. There are slight differences in grades of polyethylene, layer thickness, roll length and other technological issues. The scope and method of installation are no different.

The specifics of the use of materials is also the same - areas that require complete cut-off from moisture in all forms.

Insulation forms

Everything existing species heaters can be divided into groups based on the shape of the material. Each of them has its own advantages in certain conditions. Let's take a closer look at them:

Liquid heat insulator

Liquid thermal insulation are materials that are applied in bulk or by spraying. In air, they solidify or (more often) foam, forming a continuous hermetic web. The disadvantage of such materials is the need to use special equipment. However, there is an important advantage - liquid materials can be applied to any surface, with a large number of small details, potholes or other flaws. The coating canvas in any case will be even and tight. In addition, the thickness of the layer is relatively small and does not create an excessive load on the supporting structures.

Read also: Wiring in a wooden house

Liquid types of insulation include:

  • polyurethane foam;
  • penoizol;
  • insulating paint;
  • liquid rubber.

The use of such materials is limited due to the complexity of installation and high cost.

in slabs

Plate types of insulation are convenient in that they are able to hold their shape during installation and do not need to install load-bearing structures. These include the following materials:

  • stone (basalt) mineral wool;
  • wood concrete;

The disadvantage of slab forms is the need for careful preparation of the base. In a house without basement heating, the condition of the planes is rarely ideal. It requires leveling the plane, eliminating potholes, dents and other flaws. Installation of insulation uneven surfaces will not bring the expected effect. Moreover, water will gradually accumulate in the cavities of the dents, which will lead to a gradual peeling of the insulation. Before installation, you have to make careful preparations, apply a leveling layer of plaster or sheathing to the subfloor.

in rolls

Roll types of heaters represent the most extensive group. These include:

The advantage of roll materials is the ability to install on convex or concave bases. They can be mounted on cylindrical walls, pasted over spherical surfaces, figures complex shape. The disadvantage is the lack of self-supporting capacity. Before insulating the floor in a private house with roll materials, it will be necessary to assemble additional support structures, use adhesives or other auxiliary materials.

Bulk thermal insulation

Bulk materials are used only on horizontal planes - for floor insulation, attic, ceilings, ceiling tiles. This group includes:

  • expanded polystyrene granules;
  • perlite.

The use of such heaters is limited due to the peculiarities of their structure. The best option use - floor insulation in a wooden house. The main advantage is the ability to extract and reuse the material. The disadvantages include the need to create a rather thick layer of backfill - the desired effect appears with a layer thickness of 25 cm or more. Because of this, they are most often used to insulate floors in a private house with a cold underground.

Main stages of work

Insulation of a wooden floor in a private house is carried out in stages. You need to do the following:

  • inspect the condition of the subfloor and load-bearing structures (lag);
  • choose a method of insulation, decide which insulation is better to use;
  • purchase necessary materials and fixtures;
  • carry out preparatory work;
  • install waterproofing, insulation and related materials on the subfloor;
  • lay a layer of sheathing and a fine floor covering on the floor.

The main task - right choice method of installation and insulation. If the old floor is used in the house, it is necessary to decide whether it can continue to be used, or whether a complete replacement of the floor is needed. In addition, it is necessary to determine the direction of installation - from below or from above. All subsequent actions depend on what decisions are made.

Features of insulation

Before insulating the floor of a wooden house, it is necessary to find out the specifics of the location of the floor. The technology for performing work depends on the type of foundation, the design of the basement level and the presence of a basement. It is most convenient to install a heat insulator from inside the room, i.e. above. However, this method is not suitable for all floors. If you act without opening the old flooring, then the floor level will rise noticeably. Doors will stop opening, all units will need to be reinstalled.

Before you insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor, you should go around the entire floor and draw up a diagram showing openings, stairs and other elements adjacent to the ceiling. If there are too many, it's easier to find another mounting option.

Consider how to insulate floors in a wooden house with different types underground. For each method, a brief step-by-step instruction will be given:

Above the cellar

For floor insulation in a house with an unheated basement, two options are suitable:

  • installation of a layer of insulation from below, cellar;
  • laying material on the floor from above.

The choice of the desired option is made based on the convenience of work. The efficiency of the result in both cases is approximately the same and depends on the properties of the selected material. Procedure for installation from below:

  • preparation of the ceiling surface. Cleaning, removal foreign objects- lamps, hooks, brackets;
  • slats 1.5-2 cm thick are stuffed on the ceiling. A solid canvas is installed on top waterproofing film. The strips are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with a special adhesive tape. The canvas is attached to the rails with a stapler;
  • framing installation. This is a system of strips, the thickness of which is somewhat larger than the size of the insulation. The distance between the planks (sheathing step) must be equal to the width of the plates or rolls;
  • insulation is installed between the slats. It is recommended to use board material, which has rigidity and is easy to work from below. Installation is carried out as tightly as possible, without gaps or cracks. If they appear, they are immediately filled with mounting foam;
  • installation of the second layer of waterproofing. It is attached in the same way to the laths of the crate;
  • ceiling panel lining sheet materials- plywood, OSB, chipboard or similar.

It is necessary to ensure complete insulation of the insulation with two layers of film. If air comes in from outside, the insulation will gradually get wet and stop working.

With a low underground

If the house has a low underground, you will have to think about how to insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor. This method is best implemented using thin and waterproof materials - isolon or penofol. In order to be able to walk on the floor without violating the integrity of the insulation, it will be necessary to install a hard floor covering such as laminate from above.

Before insulating wooden floors in a private house on top of the boards, you will need to prepare the surface. Procedure:

  • removal of the floor covering and all foreign elements. Sealing cracks and gaps (if any);
  • installation of the support system. These are wooden planks arranged so that the insulation fits snugly between them. Their thickness should be slightly greater than that of the insulation;
  • laying of roll insulation;
  • the entire floor area is covered with sheet materials (plywood, OSB, etc.);
  • underlayment and laminate flooring

Wooden house - eco-friendly and cozy. However, in order to be comfortable in our climate, the house must be properly insulated. Insulation work includes not only giving additional thickness to the walls and ceiling, but also floor insulation measures - a lot of heated air can leak through cracks and holes in the floor.

In a house with an insulated floor, you don’t look like socks in winter - you have to pull on felt boots or uggs. And in general, living in such a room is uncomfortable, especially if there are small children who love to crawl just on the floor. The importance of floor insulation in a wooden house is undeniable - we will consider this issue in more detail in the article.

General requirements

What characteristics should a modern safe and high-quality insulation have?

  • Ease. Insulation should not weigh down the structure of the building.
  • Durability and reliability. Properly selected material is sure to become a reliable support for the whole house.
  • Safety. Mandatory requirement. It is important that the selected material fully complies with all sanitary standards and is not toxic.
  • Easy to install. Installation of insulation should not cause difficulties.
  • Low thermal conductivity. This main characteristic material, since its main functional purpose is to keep heat in the house.
  • Density. The higher the density of the material, the better it will protect the home from the winter cold.

On the video - floor insulation in a wooden house:

How to insulate

What materials are best suited for floor insulation in a wooden house.

Sand or expanded clay

The simplest natural materials that can be used for floor insulation. In addition, they are also the most inexpensive. These heaters are simply poured onto the rough flooring, thereby creating a dense layer between this flooring and the usual floor.

These materials are of natural origin, which means they are safe from an environmental point of view. In addition, they have a dry structure and absorb moisture well - this will help protect the floor from fungus and mold.

Minus - the ability to absorb moisture over time with these materials is lost, so we can not talk about the durability of these heaters.

It will also be interesting to learn about the technical characteristics and price of Isover insulation:

Sawdust

Wood sawdust is one of the inexpensive and environmentally friendly materials that can be used to insulate the floor of a wooden house. It is elementary to simply lay wood sawdust - they are simply poured onto the subfloor, tamping a little - special construction tricks are not required here.

On the photo-expanded clay for warming a wooden house:

The downside is that sawdust is combustible and short-lived, and it will be somewhat better. But what are the proportions of the floor screed with sawdust and how to do it right, is described in great detail in this

Fiberglass

One of modern materials, but now it has been replaced by even more "advanced" mineral wool. Fiberglass is made from waste glass production, produced in the form of plates different sizes and thickness.

In the photo - fiberglass for insulation

The material is safe, environmentally friendly and free of toxic impurities. Fiberglass is non-flammable and fire resistant.

This is a dense material that is different low level thermal conductivity. With its help, you can perfectly insulate your home. The disadvantage of the material is its high cost compared to others. But what are the characteristics of basalt wool and where it is used in construction, information will help to understand

Mineral wool

The most common type of heaters. It is applied to all surfaces of the house - both for a ceiling, and for walls, perfectly is suitable also for a floor. Mineral wool can be produced from basalt, stone chips, slag, and other waste products from various industries.

In the photo - mineral wool for warming a wooden house

Cotton wool perfectly absorbs noise. This material is durable and reliable - its service life at the initial quality choice may take decades. Cotton wool is resistant to chemical, mechanical, and thermal effects. All these qualities make the material one of the most attractive on the market. modern market heaters. Quite often used.

The material reliably protects the house from the cold, as it has a low level of thermal conductivity. Also, cotton wool has a high level of water repellency, so it is suitable for homes that are in a humid climate. However, the material is afraid of direct dampness - in this case, it immediately loses its technical characteristics. Therefore, when insulating the floor with mineral wool, make sure that there are no water leaks in the basement.

But many are concerned about the question of whether they have mineral and. Mineral wool is safe, does not cause allergies. Cotton wool does not last too long - insulation with this material will cost less than with polystyrene foam or fiberglass boards.

The disadvantages include low vapor permeability. Due to the fact that cotton wool does not pass steam well, condensate can accumulate on its surface, which will freeze in winter. But it's because of . Therefore, laying mineral wool provides additional vapor barrier.

Penofol

It is one of the latest scientifically developed insulation materials. It is a rolled material, one side of which is made of foil. In addition to foil, the composition of the material also includes several layers of insulation, creating a kind of sandwich that perfectly retains heat in the room.

On the photo-penofol for a wooden floor in the house:

Penofol is good because it is very easy to install. Even a person who does not have special construction skills can roll a roll on the floor. Penofol perfectly withstands mechanical loads, shocks, endures high temperature. The material is dense, so it can be laid in a thin layer. And here's how to do it right, is described in this article.

Penofol has excellent vapor permeability, so additional vapor barrier is not required. You can save a lot on this.

Insulation thickness

It should be noted that for each specific house this indicator is calculated individually - and the thickness of the material that is suitable for a house in the southern latitudes may differ radically from the thickness of the material for a northern cottage. Also, this calculation includes other features.

On the video, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house:

What do these mysterious letters mean:

  • R is the level of thermal resistance of the structure. This level is different for each climatic zone. You can find it out from the application map, which is attached to the SNiP.
  • A - coefficient of the level of thermal conductivity of the insulation. Each type of insulating material has its own. You can see it on the packaging of the material. Some coefficients are also indicated in SNiP.

Using this formula, you can accurately determine how thick the insulation is suitable for you, so that you are guaranteed not to freeze and achieve the optimal temperature in the house.

Attention: if according to the formula it turns out that in your house the insulation layer should be thin, then experts recommend using polystyrene foam or rolled materials in this case. Such heaters can best protect the house, even if the layer is not too thick.

Manufacturers and prices

Let's find out what brands in the modern market of building materials offer customers best choice quality heaters.

Rockwool

One of the most widespread and demanded brands of heaters in the Russian and world market. It produces mainly basalt mineral insulation - for ceilings, floors and walls.

In the photo - floor insulation from Rockwool

This manufacturer produces truly quality materials. Rockwool insulation is very dense, non-flammable and durable. Available in slabs. The cost depends on the brand of the product, on average - 140-230 rubles per square meter.

euroisole

This brand produces mineral wool with high technical characteristics. Cotton wool Euroizol is non-combustible, withstands significant mechanical and chemical loads. Doesn't absorb moisture well. The cost of a cubic meter of this material is on average 4000 rubles.

In the photo - floor insulation from Euroizol

Linerock

This is a heater that has excellent vapor permeability, which means that the house will not look like a hermetically puttied room - normal air exchange will take place in it. This will create a favorable microclimate in the room.

In the photo, floor insulation from Lineroc

Linerock is available in slabs, suitable for walls and floors. The cost is 140-170 rubles per sq. m.

Isover

One of the most popular heaters on the Russian market. It is a quality glass wool with high operational characteristics. Izover is a very strong and durable material with a low degree of shrinkage. The cost is approximately 150 rubles per square meter.

In the photo, floor insulation from Izover

These are just a few of the variety of manufacturers, brands and brands on the market of modern building materials. On sale you can also find high-quality heaters of such brands as Ragos, TechnoNIKOL, Penoplex, Knauf and others. The choice depends on the characteristics of your climate and specifications building.

We reviewed the most popular and optimal floor insulation in a wooden house. Choosing suitable option for yourself, be sure to consider all its pros and cons - and then your home will be warm, safe and comfortable.