Wood-concrete, otherwise - arbolite blocks, are so attractive in terms of characteristics that the desire of craftsmen to make them with their own hands is quite understandable. But is this building material as good as advertised, and is it possible to start its production at home? To clarify the situation, we propose to consider in detail what wood concrete is, to study its properties, manufacturing technology and feedback from developers.
What is wood concrete
This building material belongs to lightweight concrete with a large-cell structure and wood filler. It is produced in the form of blocks ( standard size– 50 x 30 x 20 cm), slabs with reinforcing cage and liquid mixtures poured into the formwork during the construction process. According to GOST, the composition of the wood concrete should be as follows:
- wood chips of strictly standardized sizes;
- chemicals - alumina sulfate, lime, liquid glass, calcium chloride;
- cement M400-500;
- water.
Note. Chemically active additives are designed to neutralize the effect of organic substances (sugars) contained in the tree on the adhesion of cement with filler.
To obtain wood concrete of standard strength, the length of the chips in the solution should not exceed 25 mm, and the width should lie in the range from 5 to 10 mm with a thickness of up to 5 mm. For the preparation of wood concrete, you can not use sawdust, shavings and other organic matter - straw or reeds. By the way, sawdust concrete is also a radically different material with excellent properties.
Specifications
Arbolite blocks and reinforced panels produced at the plant are divided into 2 groups - structural and heat-insulating. The former have a density of 550-850 kg / m³ and are used for construction bearing walls. The second, with a density of 300-500 kg / m³, are suitable only for insulation finished structures because they do not have the required bearing capacity. An essential parameter of wood concrete - thermal conductivity - also increases along with the specific gravity, which is reflected in the diagram:
The rest of the characteristics of the arbolite look like this:
- Compressive strength depends on density and corresponds to concrete grades from M5 to M50. The modulus of elasticity is about 2000 MPa, and the bending strength is up to 1 MPa. This means that monolithic blocks do not crack under heavy loads and, after squeezing, tend to return to their original shape.
- Water absorption of building materials - up to 85%. In practice, a jet of water can impregnate wall panel through, but then drains rather quickly, after which the wood concrete dries successfully.
- In terms of resistance to fire, the material belongs to group G1 - slow-burning. It also ignites very slowly.
- Monolithic and hollow arbolite products pass steam equally well, which helps to remove excess moisture from the building through the outer walls.
As for soundproofing properties, wood concrete absorbs noise much better than traditional materials - brick, wood and aerated concrete.
Production technology
In the factory technological process the production of arbolite products proceeds as follows:
- Woodworking waste is shredded to right size in a crusher and cleaned of bark and leaves, whose content in the raw material should not exceed 10%.
- Water is mixed with chemical components in the right proportions, depending on the type of wood. For example, larch requires twice as many mineralizers per volume cube than spruce and pine.
- The chips are sent to a forced-action concrete mixer, where they are mixed with prepared water heated to a temperature of 15 °C.
- Cement M400 is added to the mixture and mixed for 20 minutes, after which it is poured into molds. Laying is done manually or using a vibropress.
- The formwork is removed from the products immediately after molding, then they are sent for drying.
Reference. Some manufacturers practice cutting blocks on a special machine in order to give them a clear geometric shape.
Note that when forming arbolite products, the raw material is not subjected to pressing, but only to vibration. Different indicators of the density of blocks and slabs are achieved by changing the concentration and size of chips in the primary solution.
Production line for the production of wood concrete
Pros and cons of the material
In terms of thermal insulation properties, wood concrete is comparable to other modern building materials, which is reflected in the following diagram:
In addition to low thermal conductivity, wood concrete has other advantages. They are as follows:
- light weight, which facilitates the handling and installation of products;
- thanks to good soundproofing performance, arbolite structures effectively protect the premises from the penetration of external noise;
- environmental friendliness;
- high strength and elasticity, preventing cracking from static and shock loads;
- the cellular structure allows water vapor to freely penetrate, that is, the material "breathes";
- the porous surface of the blocks and the composition of the mixture make it possible to use any kind of external and internal cladding.
In addition, it is worth noting the ease of processing wood concrete with hand and power saws, which is important when building walls and trimming elements. And the last positive feature: in arbolite products without voids (in the form of a monolith), nails, ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws hold perfectly, and this reduces the cost of fastening various interior items and installing shelves compared to foam blocks and aerated concrete.
Now about the shortcomings, of which arbolite also has a lot:
- Wood concrete structures need to be protected from moisture ingress from outer side, so they need to be plastered or sheathed waterproof materials with a ventilated gap device.
- Due to the fuzzy geometry of the blocks, the consumption of plaster during finishing work increases;
- The distribution network sells a lot of low-quality products that do not comply with GOST. Unscrupulous manufacturers often do not comply with the requirements for the size of the chips and pour everything into the solution, because they do not have calibration equipment.
These shortcomings are not too significant and quite surmountable. The main negative point is the price of wood concrete. If you ask how much the same aerated concrete costs, you will find a difference of 40-60% in favor of the latter.
Independent production of wood concrete
If you have carefully studied the production technology described above, then you probably understand that at home it will be possible to produce only low-density heat-insulating blocks. The maximum that can be built from them is a small one-story building with wooden floor. The reason is clear: it will not be possible to prepare a large amount of calibrated wood chips due to the lack of equipment, and it makes no sense to sort through the waste manually.
Advice. In order for do-it-yourself wood concrete to have the properties of factory products, the raw materials must be freed from fine fraction (sawdust), dust and bark.
For work, you will definitely need an injection mold and a concrete mixer, preferably an auger type. Conventional gravity mixers are not very well suited to create a homogeneous mixture of wood with cement. The molds are long boxes made of metal or OSB plywood with partitions for casting several elements at once. An ideal option for home production is a collapsible form shown in the drawing.
Another useful unit, indispensable in the manufacture of arbolite products, is a home-made chipper for processing branches and other waste. An example of such an installation is shown in the video:
Now let's give a simple recipe on how to make low-density arbolite, suitable for use in summer cottages and backyard buildings:
- Mineralize wood chips by soaking them in slaked lime for at least 3 hours (proportions - 1 volume of lime diluted in 10 parts of water). Then pour the raw materials on a sieve to glass the water.
- Load the chips into a concrete mixer and fill with water. The ratio is: 3 mass fractions of wood waste per 4 volumes of water. Turn on the stirring and add liquid glass in an amount of 1% of the total mass of the solution in this batch.
- Lastly, add 4 mass fractions of M500 cement and mix until the mass becomes homogeneous and begins to mold in your hand.
- Lubricate the sides of the molds with used oil and fill to the top with raw mortar. Lightly compact the contents and let the wood concrete set for 1 day, and then remove the blocks from the formwork and dry for at least 7 days for open area as it is in the photo.
Removing the formwork after curing
Note. The proportions of cement and chips are indicated by mass (in kilograms), and not by volume. For water it doesn't matter, because 1 liter weighs 1 kg.
After a successful trial batch, arbolite products can be improved by endowing them with cladding right during the manufacturing process. The scheme is simple: the mass is placed in forms in such a way that 3-5 cm remain to the top, and the free volume is filled with plaster mortar (preferably tinted) or carved gypsum tiles imitating artificial stone.
Having at your disposal the construction mechanisms presented in our VIDEO, you will be able to do it yourself and in a short time to produce the required quantity building blocks. Today, when the sizes of building blocks are standardized, making them with your own hands from improvised materials using a machine tool is becoming very relevant.
Manufacturing technology DIY building blocks so economical that it allows you to fulfill all three basic goals in human life - raise a child, plant a tree and build a house. Brick has been the main building material since time immemorial, but in recent years methods have been developed to make building blocks, often used to build private homes.
Manufacturing of building blocks DIY VIDEO
The main mechanisms for making blocks with your own hands:
Vibrosieve - allows you to sort bulk materials such as crushed stone, expanded clay, sand by fractions;
Concrete mixer - does not need comments;
Vibroforming plant for the production of building blocks (from 1 to 6 at the same time).
The ability to use different components for the production of blocks allows you to choose the most suitable composition for climatic conditions different regions. The large format size of the building blocks significantly speeds up the construction process. starting material for the production of blocks is a mixture in the form of a thick dough, including cement.
To improve the durability and quality of the product, use cement grade no lower than M400. Water and sand are also important ingredients in the mixture. This building block is made in the form of a parallelepiped with or without cavities in the middle. Geometry is one of the most important requirements in production. If a block made by yourself at home with your own hands has irregularities on the surface, then the cost of building walls will be higher.
Do-it-yourself blocks can be made with the parameters necessary for construction. As a filler, you can use all types of waste, such as sawdust, shavings, various products of coal combustion in boiler rooms - slag, ash, as well as waste processing natural stone (granotsev). An example of the ratio of components: coarse sand, gravel with a diameter of 5-8 mm, cement and water in a ratio of 6: 2: 2: 1. The consistency of the mixture is such that it does not spread when it falls to the ground.
Various plasticizers are also added to the building blocks, reducing chipping at the edges, making it easier to trim and preventing cracking during work. Often, when building a private house, when you make blocks with your own hands, ordinary liquid soap is used as a plasticizer.
The basic principle of the block making plant is vibration, with which the mixture is pressed into special shapes. The blocks are then removed and moved to dry. The whole structure resembles a vibrating table. The vibrations are achieved by oscillating the plane which is used to produce the building blocks. Thanks to fast travel plane and fastening to the springs, the amplitude and strength of vibration increases, which leads to a dense packing of the mass in the forms.
In the production of building blocks that go to the construction of the walls of the house, a flat space is required for their further drying, which can last more than 2 weeks.
Various materials, such as slag, granite, gravel, sand, expanded clay, various types of concrete and broken glass, are used as a filler for the production of building blocks.
The preparation of the solution is carried out in a concrete mixer, adding and mixing successively water, cement and filler. The prepared solution is transferred into molds. The vibroformer must be installed on a level, level surface.
Information about wall materials:
Let's sum up the results of the manufacture of building blocks with our own hands. It is advisable to make several hundred pieces of building blocks for the construction of a garage or other outbuildings, then this independent production will be fully justified and will save a significant amount of money. But it takes a lot more to build a house building materials so the cost of purchasing necessary materials will be much higher. In this case, buying blocks will not only be smarter, but also easier.
Each of us needs a family and comfortable place for permanent residence. Someone wants to have an apartment in a big city, and someone wants to live where you can grow vegetables and fruits, keep pets, have a house suitable for habitation, and all the necessary outbuildings. But not everyone can afford to build all the necessary premises from purchased building materials. In this case, we think about whether it is possible to build a house from hand-made material.
Aerated concrete blocks- lightweight building material, so when building a house there is no need to strengthen the foundation.
This question was asked by all generations before us, so a sufficient number of ways to obtain building materials from improvised means have long been known.
The most optimal solution in this case is the construction of housing on your own from what can be obtained directly on the spot.
Elements of the supporting frame: 1 - the first row of blocks based on mortar; 2 - additional cellular blocks; 3 - annular reinforced belt; 4 - reinforced concrete floor slabs; 5 - heat-insulating gasket; 6 - monolithic reinforced concrete distribution belt; 7 - lintel reinforced from concrete; 8 - lintel made of concrete; 9 - waterproofing; 10 - base.
The most accessible of the materials that can be found everywhere is the earth, or rather, the soil that is under fertile layer. Since ancient times, both residential buildings and other buildings were built from the ground, but more often in those areas where there was little forest. Blocks were made from this material using plastic molding or tamping, as well as using formwork (the soil was simply stuffed into it very tightly).
For example, if do-it-yourself work on building a house is planned without a basement, then the soil that was taken out for the arrangement of the future foundation will be enough to build the walls of a one-story house. If you make a basement, then the house can already be made two-story. For walls, the soil that is taken out during the construction of a pool, drainage or well is also suitable.
Previously, it was not possible to mechanize at least some part of the manufacturing process of such a building material, but in our time, of course, you no longer have to mix the necessary ingredients with your feet, because special mechanized devices have been invented for this.
With the advent of special mechanisms, the situation with the construction using improvised materials has changed significantly for the better. With the help of an electrified tool, it is possible to produce material - mix it and compact it. And the result is no worse than in ancient times, but it takes much less time and physical effort.
The authors of the equipment in question managed to create a tool suitable for compacting concrete and other construction low-moisture mixtures and materials, as well as soil masses. And this invention, affordable to many, will make it possible to produce most of the building material and parts directly at the construction site.
Soil manufacturing technology
With the help of such a machine, it is possible to form wall blocks from local raw materials, incl. from the soil using the “zone injection” technology.
The production process of this device is based on the reproduction of the natural effect called "fluid wedge". The main technological feature is that the mold, molding powder and supercharger simultaneously move in it. And all this without any vibrations and noises. This eliminates the need for such traditional processes as dosing mass, control of product size and pressure, which inflates the punch in similar molding plants.
In the molding machine called "Mini-supercharger" MN-05, a dense and uniform structure is formed throughout the entire volume of the mold, and the dimensions of the product always correspond to the shape in all respects. When switching to another material, no changeover of the equipment is required. And in the process, the effects of elastic aftereffect, air entrapment and overpressure are excluded.
Block laying sequence: a - single-row dressing system; b - multi-row dressing system; c, d - multi-row dressing system in a mixed way (numbers indicate the sequence of masonry).
MN-05, which has no analogues in the world, is intended not only for the manufacture of single-format blocks for building needs, with its help it is possible to independently manufacture bricks, and various racks, blocks, slabs for window sills and much more, which is necessary when building a house with your own hands. Various types of soils, and industrial waste, and other materials can act as raw materials for MN-05.
This molding kit is indispensable for owners of garden and summer cottages, cottages, farmers, landscape designers and architects, as endless opportunities for individual creativity come off when building a house, and when landscaping any area, whether household plot or a park.
Everyone has the opportunity to work with this device. Nothing complicated needs to be done. And at the same time, the cost of building a house is several times lower than usual. Here are some parameters of products that can be made on MN-05 (name, size in millimeters and one-time quantity):
- raw brick from a soil block - 65x120x250 - 4 pieces;
- concrete block for paving - 65x120x250 - 4 pieces;
- paving slabs 250x250 - 2 pieces;
- concrete gas stone - 65x120x1000 - 2 pieces;
- flat tiles -120x250 - 4 pieces;
- window sill plate - 50x250x1500 - 1 pc;
- window lintel - 50x250x1500 - 1 pc;
- concrete facing tiles - 250x250x15 - 2 pieces;
- reinforced concrete pillar-rack - 65x65x100 - 3 pcs;
- concrete tray - 65x250x100 - 1 pc.
The “flowing wedge” phenomenon makes it possible to obtain unique material properties: its density reaches 99%, which prevents elastic stress, transverse delamination and expansion of compacts, since air is not trapped.
Manufacturing in a block form
It is better to make a mold for making blocks with a removable bottom, so it will be easier to take out finished blocks.
There are other technologies for making blocks for construction and other building materials for the house with your own hands from improvised materials (clay, sand, lime, sawdust, earth bit) and from cement.
The technology that will be discussed now is similar to the technology called "tise" (technology + individual construction + ecology), but this one is modified and universal, since it can be used to make building blocks with voids (sand and cement mortar ), and without them (clay, sand, sawdust, cement, lime, earthbite).
The durability of block structures using this technology is greater than that of those made by traditional methods - up to 100 years or more. With the help of such blocks, it is possible to erect buildings up to 4 floors.
The process of making a block with your own hands:
- preparation of a solution (sand-cement or other);
- setting the block form to exactly horizontal position;
- pouring the solution into the mold (and, if necessary, ramming it);
- after 5-10 minutes, the pins and internal structures are removed to form voids;
- removal of the mold from the manufactured structure, further drying of the block.
In this way, you can make up to 40 blocks per day with your own hands. And building blocks made in block form have significant advantages over panel or brick blocks:
- very significant reduction in construction costs;
- use of economical equipment;
- no need for heavy lifting and transport vehicles;
- availability of building materials;
- minimal waste;
- ensuring high strength of the structure;
- high thermal insulation of the house;
- environmental safety and high level of comfort;
- during operation there are no high costs for maintenance and repair.
Building blocks from wood concrete
The main composition of the wall blocks includes wood chips and concrete.
Arbolite blocks are lightweight building wall blocks that are made from wood chips(usually from softwood trees), water, sawdust, chemicals and cement. In the sixties of the last century, the production of such blocks was carried out by more than 100 factories throughout the country. But after the approval of panel construction, production was discontinued.
Nowadays, it is possible to make blocks of wood concrete for building a house with your own hands, with strict observance of all technological requirements. The requirements of GOST, according to which wood concrete was previously made, involves the use of wood particles, the size of which is strictly 40x10x5 mm. The number of leaves and needles cannot exceed 5% and should not exceed 10% of the bark.
For manufacturing, a considerable amount of cement is needed, which worsens the thermal insulation properties of the material. Precisely because of this ideal option wood chips are considered as the main raw material.
Arbolite is an ideal material for making the walls of a bath or sauna.
Experts recommend the use of sawdust and shavings, because wood shavings can serve both for heat and for reinforcement. The ratio of sawdust and shavings can be either 1:1 or 1:2. Before use, in order to avoid rotting from chips and sawdust, sugar must be removed, and for this it is necessary to keep the material outdoors for 3-4 months. Without this procedure, swelling of the blocks is possible in the future.
During aging, it is necessary to periodically shovel chips with sawdust, but if this is not possible, then the mixture must be treated with calcium oxide. A solution is prepared at the rate of 150-200 liters of a 1.5% solution per 1 m² of raw materials. The processed mixture is left for 3-4 days with stirring several times a day.
For the manufacture of wood concrete is required. Experts recommend using Portland cement 400 grade, and as additives - liquid glass, slaked lime, aluminum sulfate and calcium sulfate.
Additives are prepared in the amount of 2-4% of the mass of cement. The best combination of additives is considered to be a mixture of 50% calcium sulfate and 50% aluminum sulfate, or in the same ratio of water glass and calcium oxide.
Process features
If possible, you can prepare both shavings and sawdust with your own hands using special machines and processes, but you can also purchase this raw material in finished form and already processed.
This material is soaked in water with the addition of liquid glass. And to speed up the process of hardening and mineralization of the material, calcium chloride is added to the mass. In order to carry out disinfection, you need to introduce slaked lime.
And only after all these preparations, the mass is kneaded in a concrete mixer along with cement and other necessary ingredients. Next comes the filling of special forms with the resulting material, while it is necessary to compact the mixture with a manual rammer, a vibropress, or pneumatic or electric rammers.
Material shaping
Experts recommend making forms for blocks from boards and upholstering their walls with linoleum in order to make it easier to remove building blocks. With manual tamping, it is done in layers, made of wood and iron-studded tamper. After the block is aged for a day, and then removed. Then it is left under a canopy for full refinement to the desired strength. In this case, it should be covered while still wet for hydration.
The optimal temperature and time for this is 15 degrees and 10 days. At lower temperatures, longer holding times will be required. it is important not to allow the mark below zero and do not forget to periodically water the blocks with water.
Expanded clay blocks
You can do it yourself and. First of all, for the manufacture of expanded clay blocks, you need to prepare a special form. You can run it from a regular board. The form is made from a pallet and two halves, resembling the letter "G". The boards must be treated on the inside with machine oil or beaten with tin. At the ends, special closures should be installed that will not allow the form to disintegrate or change size.
It will be a little more difficult to make a form with void formers for an expanded clay block with voids, but this is offset by the economical consumption of expanded clay mixture. If desired, schemes for their correct manufacture can be found in articles on this topic.
The size of the form can be arbitrary and depend on the construction tasks, but the following sizes are more often used:
- 39x19x14 cm;
- 19x19x14 cm.
In addition to the form, you will need the following tools:
- Master OK;
- shovel;
- buckets;
- container for primary mixing of components with water;
- metal plate for final mixing of expanded clay concrete mass;
- water, sand, expanded clay.
Component ratio
To make a quality mixture, you need to take:
- 1 part of a binder - cement grade not lower than M400;
- 8 parts of expanded clay (approximately 300-500 kg / m³). It should be added that about 5 kg of expanded clay fraction from 5 to 20 mm is placed in a bucket of 10 liters;
- sand - 3 parts without admixture of clay and other components;
- 0-8 - 1 part water.
Experts advise adding a teaspoon of any washing powder to the solution for greater plasticity of the solution.
Proper mixture casting
With a trowel or shovel, you need to carefully pour all the components into a container of water and let this mass settle for some time. Then it is transferred to a metal sheet and brought to the desired state by thorough mixing.
After the finished mixture is placed in a mold and subjected to vibration using a special device that creates vibration impulses. You can get by with tapping with a shovel on the sides of the form.
After two days, the rammed block must be carefully released from the mold by unhooking the shutters on it, and in this form it should be left to harden for another 26 days.
A standard expanded clay block weighs from 16 to 17 kg, and it takes about 1.5 kg of cement, 4 kg of sand and 10.5 kg of expanded clay. Having made some simple calculations, we get that each block costs about 25 rubles, with an average cost of finished expanded clay of 30 rubles without delivery.
Aerated concrete blocks
For the preparation of blocks of aerated concrete, the following components are needed:
- Portland cement;
- quicklime;
- sand;
- water;
- a small amount of aluminum powder.
You will also need:
- concrete mixer;
- forms for blocks;
- metal strings, in order to cut off excess mixture from the top of the molds;
- shovel;
- measuring utensils;
- buckets;
- individual protection means.
The components are taken in the required proportion: quicklime and Portland cement - 20% each; quartz sand - 60%; aluminum powder - less than 1% and slightly more than 9% - water. All this is mixed in a mixer until the consistency of sour cream.
Molds for casting aerated concrete experts advise to purchase ready-made, preferring metal and plastic molds. And the finished mixture is poured into such forms, filling it in half, since gas formation will raise the mixture to the rest of the mixture in some time. And if the mixture rises above the edges, then the excess is cut off by the strings.
The mixture in the forms is aged for 6 hours. In this state, the blocks will already be ready for cutting into smaller pieces after the formwork is removed from the precast molds. When cutting, it is necessary to form gripping pockets and grooves for the fingers.
Next in industrial environment blocks are placed in an autoclave for curing, but these plants are very expensive, so when self-manufacturing blocks will gain strength in natural conditions.
The removed and cut blocks are kept indoors for another day before they can be stacked one on top of the other. Such material can be used to build a house only after 28-30 days, when the blocks gain their final strength.
Whatever method you choose to prepare the material for building a house with your own hands, in any case, the construction of buildings from it will come out cheaper, and in some cases much more environmentally friendly, stronger and more comfortable than using industrial material.
Everyone dreams of building their own house or buying an apartment. Some people like to be as close as possible to nature, others are attracted by a noisy metropolis. To build a house on your own, you need to have a significant amount of Money. However, allow yourself to build own building maybe not every person. In this case, you can make materials yourself. Moreover, elementary improvised means are often used for their production. How to make blocks yourself? This question is asked by a large number of novice builders who want to build a house.
For the production of blocks, soil is needed, located under the fertile layer. Naturally, the basis of this nature is the most accessible. It is known that this tradition came from places that did not have a large amount of forest. For the manufacture of blocks, people in those places used the method of molding, tamping or formwork, into which the soil was simply stuffed.
To make the blocks yourself, it is possible to use a mechanical device. With the help of electric tools, you can get a well-mixed mixture without using your own efforts. So the work is done quickly and efficiently.
For work you will need:
- sheets of metal;
- cement particle board;
- cement;
- sand;
- expanded clay;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- wood;
- emery skin;
- hammer;
- nails;
- bucket;
- shovel;
- rule.
Building blocks are one of the most popular materials actively used in construction. With their help, you can build houses, garages, baths, outbuildings. The erected walls delight with warmth, solidity, and a good degree of sound absorption.
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Varieties of building blocks
Any material of this type consists of cement, sand, water and fillers. Using certain ingredients, you can make a certain type of blocks:
Block laying sequence: a - single-row dressing system; b - multi-row dressing system; c, d - multi-row dressing system in a mixed way (numbers indicate the sequence of masonry).
- Cinder block, which is based on waste products from metallurgical enterprises. They are used in the construction of utility rooms. It is very convenient to lay such blocks. They are not capable of burning or freezing.
- Sawdust concrete is one of the more convenient materials for laying. It can be easily cut, sawn, mounted. It has little weight. The sawdust itself acts as its component base. To prevent their natural decay and swelling, on the eve of the bookmark should be held in a solution of slaked lime.
- Block of gravel of various fractions. The named material has a large mass, which creates some difficulties during installation. It is a kind of concrete block.
- Expanded clay block, which has good thermal insulator properties. It is light weight, strong base and easy to install.
- Blocks with pine needle extracts, wood shavings, broken stone and crushed debris.
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Block production technique
Manufacturing with blockforms. Building blocks can be crafted using special machines for such production. On any such equipment, you can build 1, 2, 3 or more molds. A machine of this nature is represented by a vibrating table and vessels for shaping the blocks. Typical dimensions will be 190x190x390 cm. Removable partitions are provided here, with which you can make tiles of different sizes. There are devices for voids, which are 2 or 3 steel cylinders. A similar mechanism is simply laid in the block mold just before the concrete is poured. As soon as the solution hardens, these devices are removed. The finished block has hollow holes. The presented method of making molds significantly saves cement mortar.
It is not difficult to make the necessary samples on such equipment. In a container, a concrete mixer, a solution is prepared with a certain filler. To ready product easily removed from the mold, the container must be lubricated with machine oil. After that, the cement mixture is poured into it.
Next, the vibrating table is turned on. After 2 minutes, the product is completely formed. During the vibration process, excess air is released from the concrete, as a result of which the composition is dense, as unnecessary water flows out of it. As soon as the product is formed, the surface should be smoothed with a spatula.
Now the block mold is moved to the place where the product will be dried. An open area with a roof or a special steaming chamber is well suited as such a site. Here it is important to follow the smoothness and horizontality of the surface. Removing the finished tile from this form will not be difficult. To do this, the lower base, resembling a layer of metal, is removed, and the side elements rise. The dried whole block remains in its place, it is not touched for several days. After the sustained time, the blocks are moved to any point.
Ground blocks. Blocks are made using a special machine. This is where the mould, molding powder and blower move. Moreover, vibrations and sounds during operation are excluded. There is no need to control the weight, measure the magnitude and check the pressure in the device.
Arbolite blocks. Wood concrete building blocks are lightweight materials made from wood chips, most often from coniferous species. It also contains sawdust, water, cement and chemical components.
The modern world dictates its own conditions and allows you to create such materials on your own. According to the requirements of state standards, wood concrete is made from wood particles, the dimensions of which must correspond to 40x10x5 mm. Numerical indicators of needles, leaves and bark are approximately 5-10%.
To make the desired composition, a significant amount of cement is required. And this will help to reduce the properties and retain heat. In this regard, wood chips are an important raw material.
Experienced builders often use shavings and sawdust in equal proportions. To avoid rotting, selected tiles must be aged for 3 months in the open air. Otherwise, block deformation will occur. Do not forget about the periodic tedding of this mass. If this is not possible, then it can be treated with zinc oxide. To prepare wood concrete, you need to take a concrete mixer.
Chips and sawdust are prepared independently using special machines or purchased commercially.
They are filled with water, to which liquid glass, calcium chloride (for quick hardening) and slaked lime are added as a disinfectant. Then the mixture is stirred in a concrete mixer with the addition of cement and some other components. After that, it is poured into molds. As such containers, you can make vessels from boards upholstered with linoleum. So it will be easier to pull out finished products.
Expanded clay blocks. For the production of such blocks, it is necessary to prepare a form. To do this, a board is taken and a vessel is made from it in the form of the letter “G”. From the inside, it is coated with machine oil or wrapped in tin. In the end parts there should be closures that help the composition take the desired shape.
You can make expanded clay blocks with voids. This will significantly reduce the amount of material used, but such work is a little more difficult to do.
In addition to the container itself, you need to use tools such as:
- Master OK;
- shovel;
- buckets;
- mixing container;
- metal plate;
- water, sand, expanded clay.
To make the solution more elastic, experienced craftsmen add 1 tablespoon of washing powder.
casting rules. To give the mass the correct consistency and elasticity, mix all the ingredients and dilute them with water, defending it for a small amount of time. After that, the mass should be transferred to a metal plate and mixed well.
The resulting mass is put into a mold, and then into a special vessel that creates vibrations. After 2 days, her shutters open and she is released. After that, the building blocks are subjected to final hardening for 26 days.
In any building materials store or in the market, you can purchase special blocks used to build a building. However, building stone is not at all necessary to buy, it can be made independently.
Wall blocks have many properties:
They are strong, durable, have improved frost resistance and fire resistance. There is also another property of wall blocks - an increase in the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe premises due to the thickness of the wall blocks without reducing the quality of heat transfer. That is why wall blocks are confidently replacing the usual materials for construction. Wall blocks will help you to get high-quality building material at low cost, and therefore - high-quality construction. A house built of wall stones will be comfortable and warm, and will also save a lot of money. Moreover, the cost of the wall blocks themselves compares favorably with other building materials. Wall blocks create a feeling of comfort due to the fact that they have a heat-resistant effect, so in a room made of wall blocks you will be cool in summer and warm in winter. That is why the cost of heating is one third less than in houses built of brick. Also, a positive property of wall blocks is that the walls created from them are much lighter than walls built from bricks, thus creating less load on the foundation. This means that there is a guarantee that your house will not only be warm, but also durable and less prone to collapse. Plus, as exponentially, your costs for the delivery of wall blocks are reduced. Due to their weight (wall blocks are much lighter than, for example, bricks), the volumes of delivered material will be greater.
So, why should you choose wall blocks for building your house, the pros:
guarantee warmth, comfort, frost and fire resistance
increase the usable area of the room due to their small thickness
do not reduce the quality of heat exchange in the room
installed in a short amount of time
at their price and at the cost of their installation costs are much cheaper than other building materials
DIY blocks
I chose the dimensions of the blocks 510x250x215 mm (the volume is 14 bricks). I welded 11 molds without bottoms from sheet iron waste. From the sides welded on 2 handles. Right on the ground I spread the roofing material, put the form. To prevent the mixture from seizing with the walls of the form, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with used oil or diesel fuel. I fall asleep there hard expanded clay concrete. Ramming is not very strong. I remove the first form after backfilling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes later. The blocks stand still for 12 hours. Then I shift them under a canopy. They harden at a positive temperature for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing material, tarpaulin or plastic film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.
Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks with voids. He inserted two wooden round timber, turned into a cone and wrapped with roofing iron. Hollow formers can be round, square, rectangular... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the thickness of the walls is 215, 250 or 510 mm.
For thick walls, it is better to make the blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215mm without voids can be called cold, 250mm - semi-warm, 510mm with voids - warm.
To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron in the center of the mold. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the wall of the house, you have to make wooden plugs to secure the door and window frames.
Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, I welded a common shape for several blocks. The vibrator was fixed on the side. I made the walls of the mold 1/3 higher - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.
Fillers can be local non-deficient materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1 to prepare the mixture.
The hardest work is the preparation of concrete. To make it a little easier, I first made a manual concrete mixer from a two-hundred-liter barrel. Its axis of rotation is shifted by 10 cm relative to the center. I welded crosspieces inside. Thus, due to the eccentric rotation of the barrel and thanks to the crosses, good mixing of the mass was ensured. For 8 revolutions of the barrel, the solution was ready.
This way I made 500 blocks. They were enough for laying a warm barn measuring 6.2x4 m and an extension to it - a cold shed.
Despite the fact that the blocks are much larger in size and mass than ordinary red bricks, the masonry techniques and the tool kit remain the same. The dressing of masonry in the corners and on straight sections of the walls is also observed. At the beginning of the laying of blocks, it is desirable to make a red brick belt on the basement or foundation (after waterproofing). It should protrude outward from the base by 30-40 mm, protecting the latter from getting wet.
Building blocks by yourself
The building block of the standard sizes is very convenient in work. The masonry goes pretty quickly, but on the other hand they are not too heavy. In addition, the walls will turn out to be standard sizes, that is, 200 or 400 millimeters.
So, the easiest way to make a mold for blocks is from a cement-bonded particle board of at least a centimeter thickness. You can also take sheet metal. To be honest, almost any material will do, but when choosing, it is important to consider how durable the form will be, whether it will be saturated with moisture, how convenient it will be to get ready-made building blocks out of it, and so on. To be guided in the choice of material for forms, first of all, should be logic. 
Of course, in order to make enough blocks with your own hands, one form will be extremely small. It is better to immediately make about five or ten forms, which will be enough to start. Further, if necessary, the number of forms can be increased.
As for the solution for self-made blocks, it is recommended to use one of two options.
The first option allows you to make blocks of the so-called "cold concrete". To do this, take a traditional solution, which is prepared from sand and cement in proportions of one to four. In other words, for one part of good Portland cement, you need to take four parts of sifted building sand.
Warm concrete is prepared from cement, sand and expanded clay. The proportions in this case will look like one to four to one. That is, for one part of cement, you need to take about four parts of expanded clay and only one part of sand.
Making building blocks is not a difficult process. Forms are filled with a solution, the excess solution is removed with a trowel and I try to level the upper part of the block. By the way, the forms should be installed on a flat surface so that the solution diverges as evenly as possible under the influence of gravity.
After a few hours, the blocks can be carefully removed from the molds and laid out for complete hardening. They harden within a day, after which home-made blocks are stacked on pallets for storage or taken directly to the construction site.
Building blocks at home
Nowadays, you can buy building blocks at any building market and building materials store. Their range today is very large, you only need to make a choice and you will be delivered your order directly to your home. How to make building blocks at home
But you can go the other way - you can make building blocks with your own hands. So, consider below the basic principles of how to make building blocks at home yourself. 
First you need to decide what size you plan to make the building block. The following size is considered to be the running size today - 400x200x200 mm. Blocks of such geometric parameters are not heavy, they are easy to lay when building a wall. With the help of such a block, you can easily make a wall of two types with a thickness of 200 mm and a thickness of 400 mm.
To create a form with which building blocks will be made by hand. We recommend that the form be made into several blocks at once, this will significantly speed up the work process and the prepared concrete will be better used. You can make construction at home as full-bodied and with cavities. The mortar for blocks is made using cement and sand, while the proportion must be maintained 1 to 4 (this is the so-called cold concrete). Also, you can add expanded clay, sawdust, slag or glass to the concrete mixture (such concrete is also called warm concrete). Many people ask themselves: how to make building blocks yourself so that they do not stick to the mold and have a flat and smooth outer surface. To do this, you need to do the following - apply machine oil to the walls of the mold, and even better working off.
When pouring building blocks at home, the form must first be filled by 45-50%, then the concrete should be compacted and the mixture should be uniformly shaped. After that, you can fill the form completely again, tamp, level the top side, remove the remains of the concrete mixture from the brick form and let it harden. Concrete mix Let it dry for about 30 minutes. Then you carefully remove the form and you can carry out the next cycle of work. The blocks will fully harden only after 24 hours. Care should be taken that the blocks are protected from direct sunlight and rain until completely dry.
So, you already know how to make building blocks yourself at home, now you can safely get to work. And if you make a form of at least a dozen blocks for one run, then a day you are quite capable of making 120-150 blocks without outside help
In any building materials store or in the market, you can purchase special blocks used to build a building. However, building stone is not at all necessary to buy, it can be made independently. Our article will tell you how to make building blocks with your own hands.
Determine in advance the desired dimensions of the future building block. The most common and most popular size: 400x200x200 millimeters. Such a building stone is not too heavy, but the thickness of the wall can be 200 or 400 mm (depending on personal preferences).
For future building blocks, it is necessary to design forms. It is advisable to use cement particle board 10 mm thick and sheet metal (2-3 mm). A stone mold can also be made from wood that has been sanded on the inside.
Make the form into one or more blocks (this will speed up the process of making building stone). Do-it-yourself blocks can be hollow or solid (depending on personal preference), which affects the design of the mold.
For "cold concrete", prepare a mortar for blocks from cement and sand (proportion 1: 4), and for "warm concrete" - from cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1. Then fill the "raw" block shape halfway. Tamp the solution (you can use the handle of a shovel) and only after that complete the form with the missing “raw materials”.
Align the top surface of the future block building rule, that is, remove the excess solution with this tool. After thirty to forty minutes, carefully remove the block from the mold, and form a new building stone in it.
For complete hardening of the solution, the blocks are carefully transported to a special place, protected from the sun and rain. The blocks will fully harden in twenty-four hours.
Lightweight wall blocks and their advantages.
In addition to the traditional material for building walls - bricks, wall block materials such as expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete and foam concrete are increasingly used in private housing construction today. What are their differences, features, advantages and disadvantages?
LEAKED CONCRETE.
Peculiarities: Expanded clay blocks made of expanded clay (foamed and fired clay), which is used as a filler with fractions of 5-10 mm, water and cement.
Advantages: In terms of thermal insulation characteristics, it surpasses brick, gas and foam concrete. Resistant to moisture. High strength, frost resistance
AERABLE CONCRETE
Features: Aerated concrete is obtained by adding a blowing agent (aluminum powder) to a mixture of lime, cement, quartz sand. The material gains strength under increased pressure and high temperature in oven autoclaves. Aerated concrete is porous both inside and outside, i.e. its porous. Products are manufactured in the factory, so the quality of products is guaranteed.
Advantages: Greater geometric dimensional accuracy, higher rates of heat and sound insulation, strength.
FOAM CONCRETE
Features: Foam concrete (non-autoclaved cellular concrete) is made from a mixture of water, sand, cement and a foaming agent. It hardens naturally in special forms. The structure of foam concrete is closed bubbles different sizes. Products can be produced privately, directly on the construction site. Homemade blocks do not always correspond to the declared characteristics.
Advantages: Due to the closed pore structure, moisture absorption is lower. 
Aerated concrete and foam concrete have a high accuracy of geometric dimensions, which allows them to be used during installation with adhesive mixtures, and not with ordinary masonry mortar. The thickness of the joint from the adhesive mixture is 2-3 mm, and from the masonry mortar - 10-12 mm. This makes it possible to make the wall almost homogeneous, as warm as possible.
The common advantage of all considered materials is:
The large porosity of the materials provides high thermal insulation properties, excellent sound insulation characteristics. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the material, the walls "breathe". The blocks are non-combustible, do not melt and do not emit harmful substances when heated. Due to their low weight, they significantly reduce the load on the foundation.
The common disadvantage of all considered materials is:
Despite the high thermal insulation performance, walls made of these materials need to be insulated. The porosity of the blocks requires mandatory protection of the walls of the building from atmospheric precipitation. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain the vapor permeability of the structure.
In aerated concrete and foam concrete, an additional disadvantage can be considered low bending strength. Reinforcement must be carried out every three rows of masonry. Requires a tape monolithic foundation or monolithic basement.
How to make a wall block
Building blocks have a lot of advantages. Among them are the convenience and speed of construction of buildings, the relative cheapness of construction, and others. Wall blocks are one of the few materials with which you can build a house from scratch almost alone. If you have a lot of free time and not a lot of money, you can try making wall blocks yourself.
You will need
Cement brand M400;
- filler (expanded clay, slag, etc.);
- SDO additive (wood saponified resin);
- sand;
- shovel; 
- containers for measuring and stirring the solution;
- block form.
For 1 m³ of expanded clay concrete M75:
- cement M400 - 250 kg;
- expanded clay - 1.05 m³;
- sand - 0.2 m³;
- wood saponified resin (SDO) - 0.3 kg;
- water - 0.25-0.35 m³.
For 1 m³ cinder block M50:
- cement M400 - 200 kg;
- slag - 0.7 m³;
- sand - 0.25 m³;
- lime - 50 kg;
- water 0.1–0.15 m³.
Instruction
1 Choose the type of block that suits you best
Wall blocks can be made on the basis of various binders and fillers. Cement is used as the main component. The choice of fillers is much wider. It can be sand, expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. Depending on the type of fillers and their ratios with each other, it is possible to obtain a material that differs in strength, thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, frost resistance. In the manufacture of wall blocks with my own hands most often, slag or expanded clay are chosen as fillers. Slag and expanded clay blocks have good operational properties- high thermal insulation combined with sufficient strength - and at the same time relatively cheap. Slag can often be purchased for free or at a meager price.
2 Decide on the block brand
The strength of the building block, characterized by its brand, is determined by the relative content of cement and fillers. By increasing the amount of cement and sand relative to expanded clay and slag, it is possible to increase the strength of the block. However, it should be remembered that at the same time its thermal insulation properties are reduced. Between strength and thermal insulation, it is necessary to find a middle ground.
3 Decide on block sizes
The most common is the standard size 390x190x188 mm. However, you can make blocks of any size. Before settling on a specific size, you should determine the thickness of the wall of the building for which the blocks are intended, and then, based on it, choose the size of the block.
4 Make, buy or rent a block making machine
You can do without a machine tool by making the simplest collapsible forms (matrices) from sheet metal, wood or plastic. However, in this case, a large number of molds will be required, since the poured blocks will have to stay in the molds for some time to harden. Slag block machines, due to the presence of a vibrator, allow you to unload the block immediately after molding. If you intend to produce a large number of blocks, it is better to do this with a machine. The time gain will be huge.
5 Prepare the working mixture
Measure all the components (cement, sand, slag or expanded clay, lime) in the required proportion and mix them well in the sealing container. After that, add water with LMS dissolved in it. Depending on the moisture content of the water fillers, a different amount may be required, so add it gradually, stirring and evaluating the mobility of the mixture. Don't over water. The stiffer (less mobile) the mixture, the stronger the blocks are obtained.
6 Fill the mold with the mixture
If you use manual collapsible molds, when pouring, carefully compact the mixture in the mold with a trowel or shovel until the surface is smooth and covered with a thin layer of water. When using a cinder block machine to compact the mixture, it is enough to turn on the vibrator for a few seconds (5-8).
7 While the blocks are curing, keep their surfaces moist. This can be achieved by regularly pouring water on the blocks or by covering them with plastic wrap. The blocks should solidify when in the shade.
