How to lay tiles on the wall: do-it-yourself tiles with photo instructions. Definition of vertical rows of tiles

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Repair. A word that terrifies almost every homeowner who has waited for this “happy” moment of his life. It is terrible not only because of the “destroyed” housing, dirt and debris, strangers in the apartment, but also the need to spend large sums on holding this event. Basically, the financial costs will consist of two items: the purchase of the necessary materials and the remuneration of specialists employed in work related to the repair.

Facing can be done using various adhesive compositions

Repairs associated with facing any premises, for example, tiles, are especially costly. In addition to the high cost of finishing material, the services of professional tilers cost a lot. And therefore, it would be absolutely reasonable to want to lay tiles with your own hands, saving a lot of money on this. In addition, this task is quite feasible, you just need to know how to properly lay ceramic tiles on the wall and floor.

Choice of materials and tools

Any work, including do-it-yourself tiling on a wall, begins with the purchase Supplies and preparation of the necessary tools and fixtures. So, the technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles requires the following elements:

Materials:

• primers;
• tile or other finishing material;
• adhesive mixture;
• crosses;
• fugue.

Tools:

• tile cutter or any cutting device tiles
• a set of spatulas (rubber for grouting, conventional for applying glue to the surface, notched for distributing the adhesive);
• level;
• roulette;
• pencil or marker.

To get started, you need to prepare materials and tools

The choice of a device for cutting ceramics depends on how much tile you need to lay with your own hands, the scheme for laying it and the physical characteristics of the facing material. It can be either a professional electric tile cutter with great performance, or a modest manual glass cutter.

Foundation preparation

Before laying the tiles, the surface to be finished must be inspected and a decision made on how to bring the base to acceptable parameters. After all, how smoothly the surface will be made depends on the final quality of the lining, the complexity of the process and the consumption of material.

If the base does not have significant depressions and bulges, then the preparation may be limited to one or two leveling and plaster layers and the work steps will look like this:

• dismantling of the old lining;
• cleaning the wall of adhesive residue and dirt;
• surface treatment with antiseptic and primer;
• base plaster.

A modern range of waterproofing materials allows you to choose reliable and easy-to-use products.

In this case, you can do the preparation yourself, because the described works do not require special qualifications and many home craftsmen can do it with their own hands.

For relax plastering works with your own hands, laying plaster, it will be correct according to special plaster beacons.

There are options when the differences are so large, or the wall is significantly "littered" in one direction or another, that it is not possible to level it with plaster. Then you need to do this by building a new base from drywall or OSB sheets mounted on a frame from a special profile. Then the surface is processed by traditional methods and you can start laying tiles on the walls.

Choice of scheme, markup and laying method

Correctly laying tiles on the walls can be done in several ways, here are the main ones:

• classic layout or seam to seam;
• in a run;
• diagonal or rhombus layout;
• combination of various schemes (modular layout, carpet, offset, etc.).

If you want to lay tiles on the wall with your own hands, but you don’t have enough experience with ceramics, then it would be right to dwell on the first two options, since the remaining methods require certain skills in handling the facing material.

Having chosen the scheme according to which the tile will be laid on the wall, you need to mark the base. So that during subsequent installation, the tile lays flat on the wall, with the least amount of trimming, and, accordingly, waste, this must be done very carefully. For this, a laser level is used, which provides the most accurate marking, but in its absence, you can get by with a regular tape measure and a plumb line.

When facing vertical surfaces, it should be remembered that it is necessary to indent from the floor surface

In order not to mark the wall with a directly laid fragment (which is also allowed), for convenience and speed up the process, you can prepare a wooden lath, on different sides of which draw several dimensions of the length and width of the tile, taking into account the thickness of the seams. At the first stage, we determine the position of the ceramics horizontally, applying a measuring rod to the wall, we find the optimal location of the tile, and the place where the elements will be trimmed if necessary. It can be both at the floor and at the ceiling, or half of the fragment is at the bottom and half at the top.

Then we move on to marking the location of the ceramics vertically. To do this, the measure is set horizontally on the wall and it is determined in which direction it is better to shift the stacked elements in order to obtain an aesthetic appearance of the wall surface to be lined.

Before laying ceramics on the wall, you still need to decide which method is better to put ceramics on:

• From the center. With this method, the cut fragments are symmetrically located on both sides of the wall.
• from one of the corners. Laying tiles in this case should be from the most visible angle.

Installation

The technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall consists of several stages:

1. Dilution of the required amount of tile adhesive.
2. Applying the adhesive mixture on a small surface of the wall and spreading it with a notched trowel in such a way that the adhesive evenly covers the area to be lined. If the base is uneven or in hard-to-reach places, the mixture can also be put on the tile, also leveling it with a comb.
3. Laying begins with whole fragments from the vertical axis or from a visible angle. At the same time, you constantly need to monitor the vertical and horizontal level of the elements. Crosses are used to form a uniform width and aesthetic seam.
4. To put the fragments exactly one relative to the other, the protruding ceramics are easily tapped with a mallet until they are set in the desired position.
5. As the work progresses, the seams between the ceramics must be cleaned of adhesive residue.
6. Having faced the surface with whole fragments, you need to trim the tiles. If there is little trimming, then you can get by with a manual tile cutter, but in the case of large amounts of work or if you need to make the cut fairly evenly, it would be more appropriate to use an electric tile cutter.
7. After the tile is completely laid on the wall, the remaining adhesive is removed from it and a pause is made for a day until the final setting of the adhesive mixture with ceramics.

In order to avoid excess consumption of glue, due to its rapid drying, it is not recommended to prepare a lot of adhesive mixture. The optimal amount of the mixture should ensure the laying of one square meter of tiles on the wall.

Grouting

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is completed with the processing of seams and their jointing with special fugue grouting compounds. After removing the crosses from the seams, the stage of final surface finishing begins:

Grouting is carried out 24 hours after wall cladding

• cooking grout composition in accordance with the instructions, usually located on the packaging of the fugue;
• using a rubber spatula, the grout is distributed between the tiles. The movement should be in the form of a "Christmas tree" relative to the seam line;
• excess composition is removed with a plastic spatula and a damp sponge;
• you can give the seam a rounded shape with a piece of electrical cable or other suitable object;
• joints of tiles with furniture or plumbing equipment are treated with silicone sealant.

After the final hardening of the fugue, in order to improve the moisture-resistant qualities of the cladding and give an aesthetic appearance to the tiled floor, ceramics can be coated with a polish.

So, the tiles on the walls are laid, the seams are properly processed, so that the repair can be considered complete and enjoy the work done by your own hands.

Quickly, easily and at no additional cost, you can lay the tiles yourself if you carefully study all the nuances of this process in advanceTile is one of the high-quality and very popular materials for wall cladding. It is known for its durability, practicality, as well as the variety of shapes and colors. Most invite professionals to perform the cladding, however, few people know that there is nothing complicated in the process of laying tiles with their own hands, the main thing is to follow some rules and remember the nuances.

Tile laying: which one to choose

Wall tiles happen different types. Porcelain tiles are very durable, resistant to damage such as scratches and wear. It has a smooth facing surface similar to glass. Mirror tiles - usually used as a decorative element in combination with other types finishing materials.

A distinctive advantage of any tile is durability and high strength.

Popular and in demand today is ceramic tile which is characterized by durability and good quality

Porcelain tiles - resistant to damage of any origin. The surface of such a tile imitates natural materials such as granite and marble. Terraglia is a glazed tile made by double firing. It is considered the highest quality and environmentally friendly.

Ceramic tiles are the most popular, most in demand, due to their:

• Unpretentiousness;
• strength;
• Inexpensive cost;
• Variety of species.
• Great popularity is also due to the variety of choices;

Clinker tiles are incredibly durable and are guaranteed to last for decades. Possesses the increased moisture resistance. Cotto - matte, made from a base of clay with special properties. It resists moisture very well, so it is ideal for the bathroom.

Laying tiles on the wall: the choice of the purpose of the premises

Tile is a kind of material, the laying of which occurs once and for a long period of time. It is very important not to make a mistake, so you should take into account the purpose of the target space. Wall tiles for decorating a kitchen apron must be resistant to both mechanical and chemical influences. In the slab area, tiles with high thermal and moisture resistance are placed on the wall.

If you want high-quality tiles - do not save. For public spaces, majolica is suitable - it is made from red clay. For tiles, there are different price categories which generally correspond to its quality.

When choosing a tile, you must additionally take into account the type of room in which it will be located.

Tile surface:

• Glazed;
• Embossed;
• Basically, it has a patterned pattern.

In the cladding of wet rooms (bathroom, lavatory) it is required to lay the walls with tiles with the highest moisture resistance. It should perfectly withstand changes in humidity and temperature. For laying in these rooms, mosaics are especially popular. You can add luxury to the design of the bedroom by decorating some elements with tiles that imitate natural material.

When choosing tiles individually for each room, it is necessary to be guided by different criteria, depending on the type of room.

To prevent contamination from entering the premises (hallways, balconies, loggias), the design of these spaces with ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware would be an excellent solution. Decorating the space of offices, living rooms with wall tiles can be great design decision. A fireplace decorated with tiles imitating a natural stone or clay surface.

How to properly lay tiles on the wall: the necessary tools and materials

Proper laying of tiles is not complete without components. You will definitely need tile adhesive, sealant and grout, primer and putty, plastic crosses, a device for mixing glue (you can use a spatula).

Before you start laying tiles, you should prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance so as not to be distracted during the work

Responsibly, it is necessary to approach the choice of such elements as:

• Hacksaw for tiles;
• Ruler and pencil;
• Master OK;
• Level;
• Wooden slats;
• Bucket for solution;
• Spatula for tiles.

And another integral component is the tile itself. In order not to be mistaken with the quantity, you just need to add an additional 10% to the resulting number.

Ways of laying ceramic tiles on the wall

Ways of laying tiles on the wall can be very diverse. Diagonal laying - most often, this method is used for the floor. Deck laying - in this way most often imitate brickwork.

For arranging the kitchen and bathroom, laying tiles in a checkerboard pattern is often used.

Parallel Laying Row - Standard tile laying:

• in a checkerboard pattern;
• lines;
• Ornament;
• Often moldings are used.

Herringbone laying - a combination of diagonal and deck, difficult to perform. Carpet laying - lining that imitates a wall carpet. In the center is a part of a mosaic of a certain size.

Thanks to the variety of options for laying ceramic tiles, you can create spectacular design which will not leave anyone indifferent.

Modular grid - a composition of tiles of different textures and sizes, followed by its repetition along the diagonal or parallel laying.

The right technology for laying tiles on the wall

The technology of laying tiles on the wall takes place in 4 stages. The preliminary stage - for starters, you need to decide on the type of tile, its size, color. Then you need to measure the parameters of the room and decide how many of the selected tiles will be required.

It is necessary to stock up on additional tiles in reserve, in case of unforeseen damage to the tiles.

Before facing, you need to lay wall tiles on paper near the wall and count the number of tiles in each row horizontally and vertically. So you can understand whether it is necessary to cut the tile into pieces, and where it is better to lay it. You can also make marks on the wall with a ruler - in this case, the tiles lie flat.

After laying the tiles in without fail needs to be grouted

It is necessary to prepare the surface - this is a very important step. Without this, it is not possible to properly tile the tiles. The surface is leveled using a special leveling mortar (plaster is also used instead) and a special spatula. Experts also recommend priming the walls.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Dilute the glue in a bucket and prepare the selected tiles.
2. To avoid slipping of the laid tiles, attach a wooden lath along the marking line.
3. The first tile must be laid in the lower corner, bounded by the rail.
4. To begin with, we apply glue to the wall with a notched trowel and begin to lay out the tiles, the thickness of the applied adhesive layer should not be more than 5 mm.
5. From the very beginning we use special plastic crosses, inserting them between the tiles. This is necessary so that the laying is even. It should be remembered that plastic crosses will need to be carefully removed within 10 minutes, otherwise they will stick.
6. Make sure that excess adhesive that has fallen on the tile is removed immediately, otherwise it will be very difficult to remove it later.

The glue will dry within a day. After complete drying, you can start grouting. This is done with a sealant or putty. The grout must be applied with a rubber trowel diagonally across the laying boundaries. In conclusion, it is necessary to wipe the surface with a dry cloth, and then remove the remaining traces of grout with a damp sponge. Be careful when tiling, often check the even position of the tiles.

How tiles fit on the wall (video)

Laying tiles on the wall is a very important part of the repair and transformation of the decorated room. Laying out a tile for the first time yourself may not be possible without errors. Do not rush, do not try to lay out all the rows of tiles at once, 5 rows - best option. This will ensure the necessary quality control, and the process will not be a burden. If all the rules for facing are observed, properly laid tiles will delight with their appearance for many years.

Do-it-yourself repair has become a very popular activity today. However, one desire to change the interior of the apartment is not enough. It must be supported by knowledge of the main theoretical aspects of this rather complex event. Usually repair work start with the bathroom and toilet. Knowing how to lay tiles on the wall correctly, you can radically change the usual appearance bathroom. Proper implementation of all the rules for laying tiled material will help save time and reduce the cost of attracting specialist firms.

How to choose the right tile?

The tile is the most widespread material among the analogs. The reason for this popularity lies in the availability and relatively low cost. Before you learn how to lay tiles, you need to choose the right one.

First of all, you should pay attention to the packaging. A special sign in the form of a foot or a hand will indicate which category of tiles the product belongs to - floor or wall. Wear-resistant building materials on the packaging are marked with a stroke, frost-resistant - with snowflakes. In addition, if you want to purchase a quality product, then pay attention to the number of stars on the box. The more of them, the better the tile.

In a hardware store, you will definitely see that the tiles are divided into several groups:

• first class tiles - designed specifically for bathrooms;
• second class - used in cottages and country houses;
• products of the third class - designed for the floor of residential premises.

When choosing a tile, you should pay special attention to the color scheme. Remember that light tones visually increase the space, dark colors do the opposite. On a matte surface, dirt is less noticeable than on a glossy one.

Tile properties

The tile has several main characteristics that determine its purpose:

• ease of care;
• protection against moisture and pollution;
• wide range of;
• a large selection of decorative items.

Advantages and disadvantages of tiles

The main advantage of a tile - its durability and durability. Due to the special production technology, it is very difficult to break it. The tile is made from pressed materials, followed by firing and applying glaze, which provides the product with water resistance and strength.

Modern staining technologies can also be attributed to the advantages of this building material. It is not painted on the surface, but in bulk. That is, scratching the tile, you can not worry - it will not be very noticeable.

The tile is presented in wide assortment - everyone can pick up color and design to the taste. Surfaces that imitate leather, glass, etc. are especially popular today.

But, unfortunately, the tile also has disadvantages:

• Brittle glaze. During a fall, it can easily break or crack.
• Due to the high strength of the tile, it is difficult to cut.
• If water evaporates or gets in, the glaze becomes slippery.

Preparing for styling

Before answering the question of how to lay tiles on the wall, let's highlight one more important nuance. It's about getting ready for the process. To do this, you need to measure the room being repaired, namely the surface where the tile will be located. Next, you need to schematically draw the wall to be finished with all the notches and openings, taking into account the dimensions taken. Do not forget about sockets and other elements where there will be no tiles. We calculate the required amount of building material.

Tools for the job

Before we deal with the question "how to lay tiles on the wall", you need to prepare everything you need to finishing works. First of all, you need to buy a binder. It can be either a cement mixture or a special glue. In addition, you will need grout, primer, guides, self-tapping screws, trims and plastic crosses. The latter are necessary to maintain the size of the seam. Guides or special profiles will help lay out the bottom row of tiles horizontally and evenly, trims are needed to create the right angle.

You will also need a special set of tools:

Drill with drills and various nozzles;

Tile cutter (if there is no special one, you can use a grinder or glass cutter);

Sandpaper;

Several types of spatulas;

Containers for the preparation of glue;

Spirit level.

Wall preparation process

Any builder-finisher admits that before laying tiles on a wall, the surface must be prepared. After all, it is correct preparatory work provide long service life, attractive appearance and strong fastening of the material.

Before laying the tiles, the walls are plastered, leveling the surfaces in parallel. Next, the walls are treated with a primer, which increases the adhesive effect of finishing materials.

In some cases, tiles can be laid over old concrete surfaces, brickwork, moisture-resistant drywall.

Laying tiles on top of old tiles is not recommended. To securely fix the cladding on the previous work surface, it is necessary to use interlayers that increase the adhesion of materials and a particularly strong adhesive.

The main stages of laying

How to start laying tiles? The work process is as follows:

1. First, prepare the required amount of soil mixture, after which it is applied to the walls. The primer for the walls of the bathroom and toilet should have water-repellent properties and include an antiseptic.

2. A small amount of tiles for the initial rows are cut.

3. On the surface, using a level, determine the main horizontal points of the lower trimmed area. Usually they put four points in the corners and four along the perimeter.

If you lay out the tiles on the wall, and there is already a coating on the floor, then it is not at all necessary to fix the profile for the bottom row. It can be placed on the floor.

Definition of horizontal rows of tiles

If you have a flat floor, it will not be difficult to determine the bottom row of tiles. However, this is not always the case. The question immediately arises: "Where to start laying tiles?" The fact is that often builders-finishers have to start from the second, and even from the third row. This is related to this:

Along the walls there are communications that need to be bypassed;

Only the walls are lined, and the floor remains intact, moreover, it has an uneven surface;

The planning of horizontal rows depends entirely on the number of vertical tiles. It happens that the level of the initial support row needs to be lowered or raised to fit the whole tile. You need to move from top to bottom, transferring marks to the next row.

Definition of vertical rows of tiles

Each builder-finisher decides for himself, Someone approaches this process creatively, some have their own scheme of work. The main problem with laying out tiles is the top rows, which have to be cut. And it's not always pretty. There are a few tricks to help avoid these troubles:

You can shift all the rows and cut only the tiles in the corner so that they look symmetrical;

Reduce the size of the tile in the place where it will be least noticeable.

How to lay tiles? Step-by-step instruction

Laying tiles must begin from the corner of the wall, which is located opposite the entrance. Then everything needs to be done according to plan:

• Cover the back of the tile with glue or a special agent.
• Use a spatula to smooth the layer of glue so that there are no voids.
• The tile must be fixed in the corner and tapped with a rubber mallet.
• Glue that has come out on the wall after pressing must be quickly removed.
• Tiles are laid out in the same way to the opposite corner.
• After fixing 3-4 rows, you should wait a bit for the glue to grab better.
• To ensure that the joints between the tiles are as even as possible, plastic crosses are installed. It is important to remove the crosses before the solution hardens.
• After laying, it is necessary to check the verticals and horizontals of the tiles. This can be done using a level and plumb lines, sometimes an ordinary bar is applied to the surface of the facing products, and all the flaws become visible.
• Finally, the seams must be filled with a hermetic agent, after which it is worth applying the grout.

Note to builders: before the glue completely hardens, you can adjust the position of the tiles and seams. Therefore, after laying the tiles, you need to carefully check the entire surface for defects and flaws.

This instruction is also the answer to the question of how to lay tiles on the wall in the kitchen. The principle is the same everywhere.

If you plan to lay tiles on drywall surfaces, then keep in mind that this can only be done after the walls have been treated with waterproofing. Before laying tiles on drywall, you need to pay special attention to the cut edges. They also need to be treated with a waterproofing mixture. You can lay tiles using a special tile adhesive using the same technology as in the bathroom.

cost of tiles

The modern market for building and finishing materials is huge. On the shelves of shops you can see various variations of tiles. In addition to individual colors, textures and sizes, tiles vary in cost. The most profitable option is the purchase of finishing materials of domestic or Belarusian production. The absence of customs duties and transport costs significantly affects the price. Russian tiles can be purchased for 130 rubles / m 2. Some domestic manufacturers produce facing materials on the territory of our country, but using foreign technology. Here the price is slightly higher - 350 rubles / m 2, but the lineup much wider. Plants and factories of neighboring countries occupy an honorable third place in terms of the cost of tiles. Ukrainian collections of tiles are presented in the price range of 400-700 rubles per sq.m. Polish, Lithuanian and Czech manufacturers do not lag behind them. Price for 1 sq.m. tile among Europeans varies from 600 to 1000 rubles. Of course, the leaders in the quality of building materials are Germany and Italy. The products of German and Portuguese factories can be bought for 1100 rubles per 1 m 2.

Collections of tiles manufacturers

The variety of shapes, sizes and textures of tiles is simply amazing. Such a large number of options for finishing walls and floors allows you to realize even the most secret desires and projects. It is best to lay tiles on the wall and floor using materials from the collection of one manufacturer. Such a tile will be in harmony with each other, and you will not notice any striking contrasts.

Modern color solutions finishing materials allow you to combine a variety of shades, for example, pink and blue, white and turquoise, etc. In addition, there are hundreds of options for tile laying techniques. Someone makes colored inserts or borders, others study technology, how to lay mosaic tiles, etc. In general, there are a lot of ideas for changing the interior, so trust your flight of fancy, naturally, relying on physical and financial capabilities.

tile care

The tile is a rather unpretentious material, however, it also needs proper and constant care. Otherwise, limescale will ruin both the tiles in the kitchen (you need to lay them according to the same principle as in the bathroom) and in the bathroom. Tiles should not be brought to such a state, it is better to take care of the surfaces constantly.

Suitable products for cleaning surfaces lined with such products can be found at any hardware store. It is better to use a creamy or liquid composition. Powder products often scratch the surface of the tile.

To deal with rust and limescale, you can use chlorine-containing preparations. Among other things, chlorine disinfects the treated surface.

When you need to clean the tiles, but there is no way to go to the store, try cleaning the tiles with window cleaner. Ammonia, which is part of its composition, will perfectly wash off the dirt and give the surface a shine.

This article will teach you how to properly tile and care for the tiled surface. Following simple installation rules will help to change the interior of a bathroom, toilet or kitchen, even for a beginner.

O facing ceramic tiles, tiles, are often called tiles. The spread of the German word (kachel) in wide popular circles is amazing. Apparently, tiling, that is, laying tiles, as a way of finishing, has long had strong associations with German craftsmen. We'll try to figure it out how to lay or install tiles with your own hands in Russian.

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Surface preparation for laying tiles

It aims to obtain a flat surface, the base on which the tiles will be glued. The more accurately the base matches what you want to get in the end, the better. According to the norms, deviations from the vertical at a height of two meters should not exceed 3 mm, and on the plane under the two-meter rail, applied anywhere, there should not be more than two gaps, each larger than a millimeter.

Preparation can come down to, but serious preparations for work may also be needed.

Surface leveling, if required, is performed single-layer. You can learn more about it from other materials on the site.

Necessary tools for working with tiles

It is impossible to imagine how to lay a tile (tile) with your own hands if you do not have the right tools for this. Without them, work is at best inconvenient, and usually impossible:

Tile cutter. Thin (up to 6 mm) tiles can also be cut with a conventional roller glass cutter, breaking on the smooth edge of the table, but it is more convenient to use a lever tile cutter. For tiles from 8 mm, you can’t do without a lever tile cutter, and for thicker and (or) embossed tiles, you will need an electric tile cutter, at worst, a grinder.

bubble level. For work in an apartment, a level about 60 cm long is usually sufficient (but not less than twice the height of the tile).

Large pliers, pliers or tongs. It will be needed to “bite” small pieces of tiles when fitting in places where communications are output.

Sharpening bar. For chamfering tile edges.

Diamond "string", circular cutter ("ballerina"), diamond drills. For cutting holes: round different diameter- "ballerina", drills; complex shape - a string.

Capacities. Large for glue and small for kneading grout for joints. For glue, a bucket made of black technical plastic is suitable, it is quite flexible and easy to clean. The grout quickly sets, knead it in small portions, for which you can even use a cut PET bottle. However, it is better to stock up for grouting with half a children's rubber ball.

Spatulas, smooth and comb.

Stitching for seams. A piece of cable in silicone insulation with a diameter of about a centimeter is suitable, or a round rod with a silicone tube put on.

Nozzle mixer for a drill. You can do without it, but for volumes from 10 m 2 it already makes sense to buy.

Roulette, construction angle, felt-tip pen (marker), fishing line 0.8 mm.

Distance templates and wedges. Made from plastic or metal. Plastic ones have the form of crosses of a certain thickness, for seams up to 5 mm their thickness is a multiple of 0.5 mm, over - a millimeter (1; 1.5; 2; 2.5 ... .5; 6; ... etc.). Metal templates "P" shaped, made of stainless steel.

Wedges compensate for deviations in the size of the tile. Even with expensive, “branded” tiles, the sizes in batches sometimes “dance” up to 1.5 mm, and after laying several rows, distortions become noticeable.

Surface marking before tiling

1. The markup task is precisely to determine where to start laying tiles with your own hands and how best to do it so that the result looks attractive.

The main thing in the markup is to ensure that the tile is positioned in such a way that it:

a) had even seams, both horizontally and vertically;
b) looked symmetrical;
v) did not have noticeable "cut" edges.

We have already written how to mark the floor, now let's touch on the walls. Their markup is more convenient, but has its own subtleties.

2. We start by building a horizon line on the walls that will be clad. We perform work using a bubble or hydraulic level, or another device for constructing horizontal lines. The distance from the line to the floor is taken for reasons of convenience, if necessary, it can be moved to the right place using a level and a tape measure (see Fig. 1).

By measuring the distance between the corners of the room along this line, dividing the resulting size by the width of the tile with a seam, we get the required number of tiles. For example, the distance is 2530 mm. Tile width 200 mm, joint 3 mm. 2530:203=12.46. Approximately 12 tiles and a piece 93 mm wide (203 x 0.46 = 93.38).

Where to "stick" this cut? There are two options, either to the corner (estimating where it will be less noticeable after installing the equipment). Or, lay strips with a width of 93/2=46 mm. on each side (see fig. 1).

Let's say right away that such a step makes sense if a symmetrical pattern is laid out on the wall. Laying tiles in this case is better to start from the center of the wall, in one direction and then in the other direction.

Of course, if you need to insert less than a third of the width of the tile or even less, it is obviously not worth laying narrow strips for symmetry. It is difficult to cut them, and they will not look. Yes, and the consumption of tiles will increase.

3. Now let's see how to lay a tile with your own hands in terms of the beginning and direction of movement in the process. If the whole room is to be faced, it is better to start from the least noticeable corner, since you will have to finish on it, and deviations in the course of work tend to accumulate.

It is more convenient for most to lay tiles from left to right, but if you are left-handed, then it may be more convenient for you to reverse. Having started laying, it is better to move further in this direction, especially if the installation of corner profiles is not provided. At the same time, the cut edge of the last tile on the wall is covered with the first tile of the perpendicular wall, except for the last seam (it is also the first, if we cover the entire perimeter, see Fig. 2).

4. The vertical layout will also depend on design features other components of the room decoration, lying on top of the cladding. For example, if there is a false ceilingcovering the top of the tiles, we lead the cladding from the floor to the very top, cutting the last tiles in place.

When laying tiles not to the entire height of the wall, divide this distance by the height of the tile plus the thickness of the seam. For example, facing 1650 mm, tile height 300 mm, joint 2 mm: 1650/302=5.46 pcs. 5 tiles and a piece of 140 mm (302 x 0.46 = 140) will stand in height. Set aside 140 mm from the floor, draw a horizontal line. From it we will lay tiles (see Fig. 2).

How to lay tiles with your own hands

Compared to marking, laying itself is technologically simple.

On a leveled surface with an ordinary spatula 12-15 cm wide, or with a trowel, we apply an adhesive composition, which is then distributed with a comb spatula, forming in the form of a series of parallel adhesive rollers.

The height of the trowel teeth (and therefore the height of the roller) depends on the dimensions of the tile and the accuracy of the surface. Usually, for tiles with dimensions of 300x200 mm, a 6 mm comb is used. The width of the comb is not less than the width of the tile.

We apply glue for laying several tiles at once. Until your experience is great, limit yourself to 2-3 pieces, gradually increasing the area. Having laid the tile and planted it with a soft rubber hammer (or just a fist), we expose the seams with remote templates. Having laid several rows, we check their level, if necessary, correct them with wedges.

We lay the masonry in rows, from the corner to the corner of the wall (or from the center to the corners if symmetry is necessary, see above). Having laid the tiles on one wall, we move on to the next.

When applying the adhesive, we pay attention to the direction of the adhesive rollers formed by the spatula comb to ensure the free exit of air from under the tile (see Fig. 3).

No matter how diverse the assortment of available finishing materials pleases today, ceramic tiles, although they belong to the respectable “veterans” of the construction market, are by no means in a hurry to give up their leading positions in popularity. It occupies a very specific "niche" - this material, thanks to its unique performance characteristics, used for external and outdoor works, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, adjoining buildings and even garden design elements.

Tiles have practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level of humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of ceramics allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when facing floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since, with all its positive qualities, it is also very affordable. And one more important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to lay tiles on the floor, fill your hand a little, show diligence, then you can easily cope with such work on your own.

But before taking on styling issues, it would be logical to consider the problems of its proper selection.

How to choose floor tiles

Going to the store for selection and purchase required material, the owner of the apartment should "arm himself" with basic knowledge about which tiles are usually on sale.

Choosing a floor tile based solely on its decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good salon-shop, trained sales assistants can be of great help, who will tell you which tile model is intended for which purpose. But it’s better to be able to navigate in icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot by themselves. Most common characters that may occur are shown in the table:

1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of the porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. It makes no sense to spend money on the purchase of such a tile for further flooring in a heated room.

2 - Foot on an inclined plane - a symbol of the anti-slip qualities of the tile. For rooms with high humidity(bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where moisture is often brought in from the street on shoes - a very important criterion. Often such an icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For the mentioned premises the best choice will slightly rough tiles with a specified coefficient of at least 0.75.

3 - A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes found with the image of a drill) - the tile has increased characteristics of surface strength, resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for the floor in the kitchen - accidentally dropped dishes will not cause serious damage to the coating.

4 - Such a pictogram is always accompanied by a numerical value - this is the thickness of the ceramic tile. For laying on the floor, a material with a thickness of about 7 - 8 mm is usually purchased.

5 - Bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined by the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the better material(for example, in porcelain stoneware, this figure is much higher than that of ordinary tiles). However, tiles on the floor should be laid so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc. .

6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, it is impossible to purchase it for laying on the floor.

7 - But the image of the footprint from the boot speaks for itself - this tile is designed specifically for the floor.

8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive, abrasive loads. According to the international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 wear classes:

Wear class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7)	Application area
I	Such tiles are suitable for rooms with a minimum load, where there is never an intensive movement of people (for example, a bathroom, a bathroom). In such premises, street shoes are not worn, and they do not have close proximity to the exit to the street.
II	This tile is for rooms where people also go to home shoes, but the intensity of traffic is already somewhat higher.
III	The wear resistance of this class allows the use of ceramic tiles in hallways or kitchens.
IV	High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with intensive use - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. In the conditions of apartments or private houses, it makes no sense to apply
V	The highest abrasion class applicable for coatings with extreme high intensity movement of people and even some modes of transport. Scope of application - stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, industrial premises etc.

9 - This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tile has undergone a double firing procedure. Such material usually has a glossy glazed surface, and is more suitable for laying on walls. In addition, the technology of double firing implies an increased porosity of ceramics - and this is a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.

10 - The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, and other aggressive substances, including any type household chemicals. The letter indicator of this property of the material is "AA".

11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing a tile - in one box there can be tiles of various shades.

12 – Notwhich expensive views ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of precious metals in their composition: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).

Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the example above, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, symbol 14 indicates that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor space, and symbol 16 indicates that 24 tiles are packed in a box.

The pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21 will tell you about some specific properties of the material. Such ceramic tiles are designed for special operating conditions. It could be train stations. and and the airports medical institutions, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. It makes no sense to purchase such tiles for flooring in a private house or apartment.

Other points not to be overlooked:

• If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (not higher than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
• The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tile also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be laid. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, tiles that are too large will not work - there will be a lot of waste. Yes, and large tiles in such little rooms will look somewhat ridiculous. In addition, we must not forget that carefully laying large tiles is much more difficult.
• If you purchase several packs of ceramic tiles, you must definitely select the goods of one batch.

This is necessary for two reasons:

- Firstly, even a completely identical tile model, but from different batches, may have slight deviations in shade. In the conditions of the store, it is quite possible that it will not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a coating on the floor and under normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.

Different batches may also differ in calibration - the linear dimensions of the tile

- Secondly, fluctuations in the linear dimensions of the tiles are not excluded. It is clear that the cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precise electronics. But it still remains ceramic, and there may be small errors, so calibration is mandatory finished products. There must always be tiles of the same size in one batch, and the difference between different batches can even be a few millimeters. When laying such a tile on the floor, especially in large areas, there may be inconsistencies noticeable to the naked eye.

• Be sure to check the packages for broken, cracked tiles or chips on the surface. Salespeople may argue that marriage is inevitable and must be accepted. No, you don't, you pay your money for a quality product.
• It is generally accepted that a certain reserve should be purchased, 10% more than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises. This will be spent on “cuts” and in cases of compensation for some unfortunate misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy additional tiles later to make up for the missing quantity - this has already been mentioned when talking about batches.

By the way, if it is planned to lay tiles, then the reserve can even be slightly increased - up to 15%. With this technology, it is more difficult to fit the material along the walls, there is more waste and, in addition, the probability of making some mistakes, but inexperience, is much higher.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic tile

How to lay tiles on a concrete floor

The process of facing the floor with ceramic tiles can be divided into four main stages:

• Surface preparation for laying.
• Carrying out the necessary markup, drawing up a scheme of work.
• Laying ceramic tiles on adhesive mortar.
• and finishing work.

Preparing the floor surface for tiling

The requirements for the base for laying tiles, in principle, are simple - it must be strong, stable, and provide good adhesion with the adhesive composition. How is this achieved?

If we are talking about a concrete base, then first it is necessary to make a thorough revision of the old screed, on which it is planned to lay the tiles. No need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.

• First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are not more than 2-3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, it is stable.
• If, during the control inspection, places of screed peeling, concrete crumbling, deep oiling are revealed, they must be removed up to the “healthy” surface, both in width and in depth. Wide cracks and crevices need to be cut to a width of up to 10 - 15 mm.
• There should be no traces of paint, oil products, fats, remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is scraped off to clean concrete.
• All protrusions are necessarily cut down - if you can sometimes look at a slight recess "through your fingers", since it will still be filled with glue during the masonry process, then even the smallest tubercle will make even laying simply impossible.
• After that, a thorough cleaning with dedusting of the surface is carried out. In order for the repair suction to lie well, it is necessary to prime all the places to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
• A repair composition is being prepared - it can be a “classic” cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, but it will dry for a long time.

The finished and completely frozen screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Floor marking for laying ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if its location on the floor is planned correctly. Carelessly, obliquely laid tiles can completely complete the interior

There are many methods and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of them on the scale of this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, "classic" method requires precision and accuracy.

Starting to plan laying from the wall is very risky, since the slightest flaw will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.

The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, the distance between opposite walls is carefully measured and midpoints are applied. They are connected straight (usually done with a coated cord), and receive a longitudinal baseline.

Now you need to draw the second, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that the strictest perpendicularity be observed. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous "Egyptian triangle": 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, this is a triangle with legs that are multiples of 3 and 4, and a hypotenuse that is a multiple of 5.

For example, we measure from the point of intersection of the leg 900 and 1200 mm. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.

When the lines are drawn and their perpendicularity is checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start laying out. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a “dogma” for the beginning of masonry - it will not be difficult for them to make a parallel transfer in any direction.

For example, if the front door in a spacious room is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles in this way - along the laid reference lines. The principle is as follows - so that when entering the room, a flat area is presented to the eye, without cuts and fitting. (see pos. "a" in the figure).

But in a small room, with a shift of the exit to the edge (pos. "b"), and even, perhaps, having complex shape or stationary obstacles, the beginning of laying can be smstyle to a free "patch" - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but it will be the entrance that will turn out to be the "front door".

In any case, you should never be lazy - you should carry out the control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles "dry", without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.

Do not neglect the initial "dry" laying of tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location

Such a simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure the distances, and finally decide on the laying scheme, that is, stop at one of the principles:

1 - in a small room, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the “starting line”, provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with whole tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing fixtures.

2 - masonry is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow sections for supplementing with fragments (brown arrows). Beneficial in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of masonry quality, it is advisable to leave sections not narrower than ⅓ of the tile width near the walls.

3 - the layout looks a little more impressive with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with extended fragments along the walls (blue arrows). Such a coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view, it is more reliable than No. 2.

4 - laying diagonally - will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the disadvantages is a more complex execution, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.

If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will work is being done- from the far corner to the entrance, or by dividing the space into several areas in straight stacked rows, with their subsequent filling.

“Filling” the space can also be done in different ways. So, some masters are laying in order. Others prefer the "ladder" scheme with a consistent increase in the number of rows being laid at the same time.

"Filling" the space can be performed linearly, or, as shown in the figure, stepwise

By the way, there are supporters of laying ceramic tiles on the floor "in a run" or even randomly - sometimes this is part of the design plan for decorating the room. But under conditions ordinary house nevertheless, they prefer to be limited to a direct laying pattern, “seam to seam”.

Laying tiles on the floor

• So let's get ready to install. essential tool and materials.

- For work, you will need spatulas, ordinary, from 100 to 250 mm wide, and notched, with a furrow height of 8 - 10 mm. For grouting, it’s a good idea to get an elastic rubber spatula.

- You will need a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle for mixing tiles with an appropriate container for the same purpose.

- Always have a building level at hand.

- In some cases, it will be necessary to apply force to lay the tile in place. It is convenient to use a rubber mallet for this purpose.

- You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).

- It is necessary to create a supply of calibration crosses of the required thickness, plastic wedges for height alignment.

- In order not to carry dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags, a sponge for wiping the solution from the front surface of the tile.

• Probably, in our time, no one is already thinking about making tile adhesive on their own - you can always buy it in a store. When choosing, you need to control the purpose of the composition - in addition to the usual, intended for most interiors, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for the street, especially resistant or for so-called "complex surfaces", for the "warm floor" system, etc.

The glue is diluted by the gradual addition of the dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring with the help of a mixer or drill. The composition should turn out to be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a sufficiently dense consistency - so that the ridges created by a notched trowel do not spread.

After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, then mixed again for 2 ÷ 3 minutes - and you can start laying.

Too much mortar should not be prepared at once, especially if there is no experience in laying ceramic tiles. The term of his "life" is limited - this must be indicated in his instructions. If the glue begins to noticeably thicken during operation, then you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water again - it will lose its qualities.

• Beginning masters, apparently having heard a lot of old, irrelevant advice or having read about it somewhere, soak the tile in water before laying it on the floor. In doing so, they are committing a grave mistake.

A similar approach is possible if the tile is laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And all modern building mixtures - adhesives for ceramic tiles, are designed for application precisely on a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce the performance of the adhesive, and the tile will begin to “dance” and fall off over time.

Therefore, before laying the first tile, carefully read the instructions for use of the purchased tile adhesive again - everything is probably indicated there.

• Where to apply glue - on the floor, or on the tiles? There is no unanimity of opinion on this issue. Someone likes to apply on the tile - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.

On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately smear a significant area of ​​​​the floor, and then concentrate on laying the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not have time).

Another option is to pre-glue the floor surface with glue.

There is a third tip - to coat both here and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tile is perpendicular - this way all cavities are guaranteed to be filled, maximum adhesion is ensured.

• After smearing with glue, the tile is laid on the surface in the right place, tightly pressed against the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
• Work continues in the same order, with the obligatory installation of calibration crosses - they will clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.

When fitting each tile, its horizontalness must be checked using the building level. The necessary adjustments are immediately made - adding or removing mortar, inserting a small wedge, etc.

• It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess glue left in the tile gap - this space will be needed to fill the joints. So it is better to remove the glue immediately, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together so, from the front surface of the tile, immediately remove stains of the solution with a rag or sponge, preventing them from drying out.
• Distance crosses are left between the tiles until the initial setting of the mortar. Then, when the tile has already acquired immobility, the crosses must be removed - it is impossible to leave them in the seams until the glue has completely solidified, since then there will be difficulties with extraction.

Video: a visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor

• Very convenient to use are modern devices for quickly laying out tiles - the so-called leveling systems. The kit includes stand clamps (disposable elements) and wedges (can be reused).

- After the first tile is laid on the glue, well pressed and inserted in level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides, so that they go under the tile with their heel. The thickness of the leg of the clamp will determine the size of the seam. Clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.

Clamps installed...

Then another tile is laid. The wide heel of the clip is also under it.

... then the next tile is laid ...

A wedge is inserted and threaded to the limit into the clamp, where it will be fixed by a ribbed surface on the hooks. Very important - the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tiles.

... wedges are inserted all the way and fully fixed.

- Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge "pulls" the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, no one cancels control with the help of a level.

- The wedges should remain in this position until the glue has completely dried. Then they are removed with light side impacts using a rubber mallet. The design of the polymer clamps is such that they can withstand tensile stress, but immediately break off when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.

- Wedges, as already mentioned, can be used further, and broken hooks are disposed of.

Video: laying tiles with a tile leveling system

Tile cutting

Previously, it was only about laying a whole tile, but in practice there are never cases where everything is limited to this. So, now it's time to consider the problem of cutting tiles.

• Installation of fragments is recommended not immediately, but a day after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will already grab well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
• When marking the tile poses, cutting should not be forgotten about the spacing between the seams - it should definitely be corrected for.
• There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:

1. The most convenient way is with a tile cutter, a desktop tool that gives a smooth and accurate cut. It is enough to lay the tile with a marking line along the central ledge, draw the roller away from you with force over the surface of the tile, and then, resting the paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.

The most convenient tool is a tile cutter

With even a small experience of the master, there is practically no marriage in such cutting.

2. A manual tile cutter is a fairly convenient tool, but it already requires more dexterity from the worker.

First, the roller is drawn along the intended line of risk. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cutting. Hand movement - and the tile should be divided into two parts.

Similarly, cutting is carried out using a conventional glass cutter, with the only difference being that the breaking is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a line placed on the bottom of the workbench. cutting metal rod (nail or wire).

With all the advantages of manual and desktop tile cutters, they allow cutting tiles exclusively in a straight line.

3. grinder with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when cutting tiles at an angle or creating complex shapes is required. The main difficulty here is to ensure that the tile is securely fixed when working with a grinder so that it does not fly out or crack.

Tiles can be precisely cut to size with a diamond grinder

The tile can be cut right through - when details of a complex configuration are required. If straight long sections are cut off, then you can only violate the integrity of the upper enamel layer - then it will not be difficult to break the tile along the intended line.

Particular attention to safety precautions - be sure to cover your eyes and face with a mask, so how not excluded scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.

4. small plots tiles can be removed with pliers.

In this case, in the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply a fine mesh with a glass cutter roller. Then, with tongs, very small fragments are carefully broken out, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.

If necessary, any minor unevenness remaining after cutting can be removed with a block wrapped with coarse (80) sandpaper. With large teeth, they can be “corrected” with pliers. If a pronounced sharp edge remains, then it is better to process it with a round file first.

The process of laying cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.

When performing work on cutting tiles and when laying its fragments, one should show special care. Ceramics can crack and not along the intended line, which means that there is a high probability of getting a cut hand injury when pressed. In addition, broken edges can have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should only be done with protective gloves.

Seam sealing

After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting.

• First of all, it is necessary to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to the full depth and width.
• getting ready jointing solution - grout. It can be cement-based or a two-component epoxy.

1. In domestic conditions, cement grouts are more often used (the so-called class WITHG 2 according to EN 13888).

cement grout for seams

They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically packed dry mixes, they can have different colors - there is always the opportunity to choose the color that is most suitable for the overall design. They are closed to the desired consistency most often with water. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of load, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.

2. V Lately grout is rapidly gaining popularity on epoxy based(class RG according to EN 13888). These are two-component compounds that are prepared immediately before the start of work on filling the joints.

The “life” of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions in order to be guaranteed to work out before hardening.

Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more ductile and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and besides, many similar grouts are sold with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.

The only significant drawback of epoxy grouts (except for a certain difficulty with proper preparation working composition) - this is still a very high price, very limiting the scope of their use.

• The finished composition is typed on a rubber spatula or rubber grater and applied with force to the seam area, usually in the direction of 45 degrees from the seam line. Such a trajectory will provide the most complete and dense filling of the inter-seam space.

• After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - later this will be much more difficult to do. Usually this is started when a white coating appeared on the grout remaining on the surface of the tile - it began to dry out (usually after 20 - 30 minutes).

To do this, take a foam sponge, well washed and wrung out, and remove the remains of the fugue with it. The movements are usually the same as when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. At the same time, one should try not to touch the seams so as not to wash the puffer out of there. The sponge should be thoroughly rinsed as often as possible, with a constant change of water. By the way, water plays a dual role here - it washes away dirt and participates in the hydration of the cement composition of the grout.

After 3 — 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again with a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries after washing, the remaining light cement coating is easy to remove by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft cloth.

After that, the ceramic tile will already take on its “ceremonial” appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.

Prices for grout for seams

Grout for joints

Video: option for grouting on a tiled floor

However, if the cladding was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out one more simple operation - to coat the seams water repellent.

This is done very simply - the composition is abundantly applied to the seams with a thin brush. This treatment will give the composition of the fugue water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life. ceramic coating, will not allow dampness to accumulate in these places, will facilitate cleaning.

When the water repellent is absorbed and dries, you can restore the final order. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the entire multi-stage process of laying tiles on the floor is over!