Preparation of the opening for the installation of an interior door. How to prepare an opening for installing an interior door? Unpacking the door frame

At installation of interior doors in the apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers need to know. After all, about Mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in the choice of doors and fittings, and help the craftsmen to do everything with high quality.

Door opening dimensions

opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6cm. from the finishing floor., i.e. 206cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings.:

Canvas 80x200(cm) - opening 89x206(cm)
70x200 - opening 79x206
60x200 - opening 69x206
60x190 - opening 69x196

The dimensions of the doorways must be determined in advance and it is very important to independently constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door width for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide in order to be able to bring in / take out furniture. Width 90cm. it happens very rarely, since such canvases are heavy and can eventually sag on the hinges.
the doors in the bathroom are usually made 60-70 cm so that washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. the door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. because of the porches in the door frame.
door leaf the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It should also be taken into account that the handles on both sides can interfere with the passage to the kitchen.
in the dressing room they usually make a width of 60-70cm.

When do you need to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the wall thickness is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail trim on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the extensions can be chosen, for example, under the MDF panel:

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions must be spliced in width or non-standard extensions must be ordered at the factory, which will cost much more.

On which side of the door should the extensions be installed?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor, respectively.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open fully (it will rest against the extension). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme of opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the features of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time open one inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trim will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is how the door that opens into the room looks like, that is, inside:
It is necessary to ensure that the canvas does not cover the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. The bathroom must be provided with a 180-degree opening for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

How high from the floor should the door be?

Standard height - 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during the repair of an apartment and the sequence of stages of work.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity when carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing works, including the neighboring rooms.

Early installed doors can be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, dry fairly well. long time releasing moisture into the room. Humidity levels above 70% for several days increase the risk that doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell, and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower often, humidity is not a threat, as the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and then it is easier to install them, with a clear adjoining of the trim to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower clearance of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coating, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything right and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip a new coating. In this case, the racks will not fall, but will remain hanging.

What if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the box?

A common mistake of repair crews is openings that are too high, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and 206 cm is better. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make underfloor heating and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair, and a situation arose when the upper casing did not close the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, and there is no possibility to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but they are usually mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut out of the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and that if you do this for all the doors in the apartment, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than necessary from the sides, the foam joint will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions by attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Especially often humps are found closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the tight fit of the casing to the wall.

To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and paste the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, act according to circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is a curve, and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm - you can level the walls with plaster according to the lighthouses, putting them on a vertical level and re-paste the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a curved opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is littered from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the architraves will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and, probably, will close on its own, slam, etc.
Install the box vertically in level, while the platbands fit in the upper part and move away from the wall by the amount of wall deviation from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
Buy a door with telescopic architraves and install it straight, deepening a little into the wall and pulling out, where necessary, the architraves from the grooves. This good decision problems, unless it is required to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will pull out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are minuses and there are pluses, because this is a compromise.

What if the door is close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the architraves, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: However, there are several other options for solving this problem:

If the repair has already been made and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can fasten a wooden bar with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install a whole platband close to the wall.
Increase the doorway at least 5 cm from the wall and cut off the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a small distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
Increase the doorway at the repair stage by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm less wide, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Setting the interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to that part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the floor joint with the door closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake of repair teams is the wrong location of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a scheme for opening all doors in advance and give it to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new homes, a canvas 1 m high is often required. 90cm due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, alternatively, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are violated, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparation of openings for interior doors

Mounting foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust on the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of drywall, then in a metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and quickly sag.

If a bar is laid inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Over time, flaking is possible. To avoid this, GKL or GVL strips or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between the sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example, with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparation of opening for sliding doors

For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden bar with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing the doorway (portal) in the apartment

If you do not want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: a hall and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. A doorway without the usual door surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the floor before installing doors

A common mistake of repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between the floor covering and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.

A recess (strobe) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansions of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To prevent deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, boxed timber and trim must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, architraves and boxes can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the set of humidity after the cold in the warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and the moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg., Then it is optimal to buy 2 loops of 10 cm high.
If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg., Then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm. tall

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. The most common door hinges come in several types:

universal hinges- these are traditional, mortise loops familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental point, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

- not mortise, overhead loops. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for a special unusual design- both of its elements in the open state resemble the wings of a butterfly. In the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily enters the other, forming a single whole. Usually such hinges are placed on lightweight doors.

- mortise hinges proven by time, the door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the opening of the door

How to choose locks and latches?

Locks and latches are best chosen based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around with knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then it will suddenly start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are well aware of these models.

You can buy classic latches / locks. It is best to choose them with plastic reeds, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clang like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch works hard. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Many symmetrical doors are now being produced, in which the handle according to the design of the door should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models of door handles come with too long self-tapping screws, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw on the handles with their self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right master for installing an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done with high quality if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of the door installation wizard?

Look at the quality of tie-in locks, joints of the box and trim, tie-in loops. The cracks must be absent.
The tongue of the lock must fit into the striker without play.
The canvas should fit evenly along the entire length to the porch or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed with the canvas
The gaps between the door and the box must be even along the entire length.
The box is fixed in the opening not only with building foam, but also with fasteners
The canvas should not close or open on its own.
Hardware must rotate freely.
The price may rise only because of the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installer? Basic ways.

1. The master must narrowly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). The foreman or team must have at least 1 year of experience and must be professional Circular Saw, milling cutters, screwdriver, drill, puncher, hairpin gun with compressor, templates for accessories, etc. Read

Installation of interior doors is carried out at the final stage of repair, after the final interior decoration the entire room, including the flooring. Many owners entrust such work to professionals. But also at self-assembly you can ensure durability and flawless operation if you know certain rules for installing doors and a phased assembly sequence.

Preparatory work and necessary measurements

First of all, it is necessary to align the inner surfaces of the doorway. This will require:

find and remove the remains of the fasteners of the previous door frame - nails, self-tapping screws, screws;
demolish protruding parts of concrete or brickwork;
clean the surface of construction debris;
check the verticality of the sidewalls and the horizontality of the transverse surfaces.

The prepared doorway should be wider than the one inserted into it door block 10 - 20 mm on each side. The presence of a technological gap is necessary for the subsequent adjustment of the box and filling the space with mounting foam. To determine the approximate dimensions of the opening, you need to add the width of the door leaf with twice the thickness of the frame racks. To the amount received, the size of the gaps between the door leaf and the box beam (3-4 mm) is added, as well as the size of the technological gap between the door frame and the opening.

Before starting work, you will need to check the horizontalness of the floor in the room. To do this, a building level is placed at the bottom of the doorway, exposing it strictly horizontally. Marks are made on the side slopes, after which measurements are taken from the marked points to the floor. Next, the vertical racks are cut taking into account the results obtained.

It should be noted that if there are horizontal deviations of the floor level, the height of the sidewalls of the box will be different.

Assembly and installation of the door frame

The door frame is a supporting frame made of beams, having a U-shaped or rectangular shape. In the bathroom and toilet, it is preferable to install an interior door with a threshold. Such a solution with minor leaks in the water supply system will help to avoid flooding large areas in the apartment. For the rest of the rooms, doors without a threshold are installed.

Height-adjusted longitudinal posts and connecting cross bars must be correctly trimmed at a certain angle before assembly. An additional lower bar, which serves as a threshold, is always sawn at an angle of 90 degrees. Trimming for vertical bars and lintels at an angle of 45 degrees is a rather complicated process, but such a docking looks aesthetically pleasing. To maintain the correct angle will help the use of a joiner's miter box. Washed down at 90 degrees is much easier.

It is necessary to assemble the door frame on a flat surface. At home, this is done on the floor. Prepared parts are connected with self-tapping screws.

To determine the exact measurements of the box, the door leaf is inserted into a pre-assembled box. Laying along the entire perimeter of the sash strips of packaging cardboard between the ends of the door and the bars of the box allows you to maintain uniform technological gaps.

The correct installation of the assembled door frame in the wall opening is carried out using spacers and wedges that fix the box and at the same time make it possible to adjust the entire structure. First of all, the hinged timber is set strictly vertically, after which it is fixed with screws in the slope of the opening.

Start fastening the loop bar should be closer to the lower canopy (loop). This facilitates further vertical adjustment of the element.

The position of the opposite post is corrected using a plumb line, after which the compliance with the horizontal position of the upper beam is checked. Further, the identity of the diagonal dimensions of the installed box is measured with a tape measure.

The procedure for preparing and hanging the door leaf

The process of preparing the door leaf involves inserting hinges, a lock and installing handles. The standard and convenient location of the door handle is considered to be a distance within 0.9 - 1.2 m from the floor.

Insertion of door hinges is a recess (sample) according to the dimensions of the hinge plates. It is performed at the locations of the canopies using a carpentry chisel or milling cutter. The depth of the sample should ensure that the loops are flush with the end surface of the canvas. Particular attention should be paid to the uniformity of the removed layer along the entire length of the plate, otherwise it will not be possible to avoid the distortion of the door leaf in relation to the box.

Next, the door leaf is installed in a box fixed in the wall opening. From below, the sash is lined with wedges, and with the help of strips of packaging cardboard, the necessary technological gaps are set on its other three sides. Only after this is the markup made for the upper and lower counterpart of the hinge on the jamb of the box and the subsequent selection of recesses on it for the hinge plates.

An alternative technique involves tapping the door hinges into the jamb prior to installing the door frame. In this case, accurate measurements are required in compliance with tolerances and landings.

After hanging the prepared door leaf, its verticality in the closed and open position is checked by attaching a plumb line to the upper corner of the door from the hinge side. The uniformity of the gaps around the entire perimeter is regulated by wedges and struts of the door frame. The corrected design is once again checked for:

spontaneous opening or closing;
mashing;
noise or squeak.

After installing, adjusting and finally fixing the door block in the opening, they begin to foam the gap between the door frame and the wall. Construction polyurethane foam is an additional means of fasteners. In order not to stain the box and the surface of the door leaves, they should be pasted over with masking tape. For better adhesion of the foam to the wall surface, the opening is moistened with water.

You need to know that the mounting foam tends to increase in volume during solidification, which often leads to deformation of the door frame. To prevent distortions and maintain the desired gap, strips of packaging cardboard will need to be inserted around the perimeter of the closed door leaf.

Filling voids should be dosed, in several steps. Complete drying of the mounting foam occurs no earlier than a day later. Until it is completely set, the door should not be used. The excess foam that has come out is cut off with a knife flush with the wall and the box, after which they proceed with the installation of the platbands.

Platband installation

Decorative cashing is attached to the door frame, giving interior door finished look. The installation order is as follows:

the size of the platbands is determined;
is washed down with longitudinal slats;
holes for fasteners are drilled;
vertical strips are baited along the box;
from above for the longitudinal elements of the frame, a transverse cashing is started;
a mark is drawn in place on a horizontal bar, followed by washing it down;
finished platbands are fixed in place.

The length of the vertical strips is determined by measuring the distance from the floor to the junction of the longitudinal and transverse beams of the door frame. The resulting mark is the starting point for the cut, which should be made at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, it is necessary to try to maintain the angle as accurately as possible, since even a small error can lead to the formation of quite noticeable gaps in the mating parts. Cash prepared in size is attached to the door frame with small nails or glued.

The described procedure for assembling and installing interior doors is the main algorithm of actions. Depending on the materials used during installation, tools, mounting hardware and skill of the master, it may vary slightly.

In this article, we will tell you how to install an interior door yourself without using a specialized professional tool, such as a milling cutter and a miter saw. Of course, using these tools, you can make a much better and faster installation, but it is advisable to purchase expensive equipment only for long-term regular work. With the choice of tool, each is determined independently, one thing remains indisputable - before installing the door, you must first purchase it, or rather, choose it (see).

Self installation interior doors is a complex skilled operation. To carry out the correct and quality installation- be extremely careful. The price of any slightest mistake is extremely high, before doing anything - - check all the calculations several times.

Preparing to install an interior door

The first thing to do before proceeding with the installation of the door, regardless of whether you are installing it for yourself or fulfilling an order, is to unpack and carefully inspect the canvas, box, trim, i.e. everything that you have to use. If the work is done for oneself, then the reasons for the preliminary inspection are obvious - claims against the seller (manufacturer) after the start of installation of the door are no longer presented. If, however, you perform installation on the customer's order, the inspection is all the more mandatory - by demonstrating the defect to the customer before the installation begins, you can avoid accusations of incompetence.

IMPORTANT: When unpacking using a knife, be extremely careful when cutting the packaging material - do not damage the front of the elements.

So, the door leaf and related materials are unpacked and inspected. Do not rush to immediately get down to work with enthusiasm - this is the main mistake of novice masters. Installing a door is one of the most important types of finishing work, which means that if you make a mistake at one of the stages, it is almost impossible to fix it without losing quality. For this reason, it is necessary to take into account in advance all the features associated with the geometry of the room, the operation of the door and its design, as well as those complications that you may encounter during the installation process. Inspect the doorway, make sure that the door frame can be placed as you need. Check the level of the floor - whether the door will touch it with the lower edge when opening (closing). If the floor is curved, you may need to change the direction of the door opening, leave a larger gap at the bottom, or (in exceptional cases) set the door at a slight angle.

Do not forget that the platbands must be completely adjacent to the box, leaving no gaps, you may have to adjust the location of the box, while not forgetting that the box must be installed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. Check immediately whether, after installation, the platband will fall into place in full size(relevant for corner doorways), or you will have to cut it along, which looks rather unaesthetic. Determine with the help of measurements whether it is possible to place the door frame in such a way that the architraves stand up without trimming. The best solution is the elimination of such remnants of the "Soviet" layout even at the stage of basic finishing (dismantling and erection of partitions).

Immediately before starting work, of course, it is necessary to clear and prepare workplace(see workplace preparation). Before installing the door frame, if necessary, clean the doorway - knock down the old plaster, cut off the protruding reinforcement rods, nails, etc. (see), for this, use with a spatula in the "impact without rotation" mode and, commonly known as a "grinder" with a cutting disc for metal.

Door frame assembly

So, preparatory work finished. Now you need to assemble the door frame. Take a tape measure and measure the door leaf.

In order for the door to close freely, add 4-6 mm to the resulting width (if the material of the canvas is of high quality and the humidity in the room is not high, you can leave a minimum gap) to the length, depending on the curvature of the floor, add 6-12 mm. Using a simple pencil, transfer the resulting dimensions to the box slats, while keeping in mind that without a miter saw at hand, you can cut off the box slat only once, it will be extremely problematic to adjust the size. You can adjust the vertical placement of the door if necessary, but the horizontal placement, as you might guess, cannot be changed, so if you are in doubt about the width of the side gaps, add another 1-2 mm to the value of the upper bar, but not too much - large gaps look extremely unaesthetic.

IMPORTANT: Also, be sure to add two thicknesses of the box in its narrow part to the length of the top bar, as the top bar will overlap the side ones. Do not forget to sign the parts for ease of assembly.

Now carefully cut off the planks of the box with an ordinary hacksaw, or.

IMPORTANT: If you have already inspected the slats of the box, then you probably noticed that the edges of these slats in some places have chips and other damage. Try to mark the planks in such a way that it is the chipped and damaged parts that are cut off. Ideally, the sawn off parts of the slats are placed at the bottom of the door frame and pressed against the floor, and the so-called "factory" smooth edge is located on top at the junction.

In our case, the slats of the door frame have rounded edges, therefore, to combine them, it is necessary either to wash down the slats at 45 degrees, or to make notches along the edges of one of the slats, in this case, the top one, repeating this rounded contour. In our example, the door frame does not have a bottom bar, but if in your case it is, then carry out the same operations with it.

When cutting with a miter saw, the configuration of the cross section of the bar does not matter, everything fits together perfectly, it is professional and fast way, however, if the installation of doors is not your specialty, acquiring this expensive tool, as noted earlier, is not entirely profitable. In our example, we will use the second method, and make notches using a jigsaw, it is inexpensive and, moreover, it is a versatile tool that will be useful to you in solving a wide range of finishing tasks. With a simple pencil, we mark the contour of the washed down.

Then, bend the insulation and carefully cut strictly along the line, while guiding the jigsaw smoothly and without jerking.

IMPORTANT: To avoid chipping, the cut is always made from the front side (in the figure, the jigsaw is turned upside down for clarity only).

Sometimes, depending on the specific model, the supporting metal part of the jigsaw may scratch or leave dark streaks on the material being cut. To avoid this, when performing responsible work, you can simply paste over it with several strips of masking tape. Please note that the cut is not carried out to the very end of the bar, later you will understand why.

After completing the cut, with the help of a chisel, we remove the excess parts of the plank, for this we put the chisel to the end and, lightly hitting it with a hammer, chip off the excess. Then, with the same chisel, we carefully clean the new surface of the plank, if not removed enough, repeat the procedure. The new surface of the plank should be in the same plane as its main part, so the edges of the side planks of the box will fit snugly against the top.

Telescopic platbands are fastened strictly into the groove of the box plank at some distance from its edge, which does not close and remains in sight, precisely so that the slots made at the stage of assembling the box are not visible on the edge of the door frame and we made an incomplete cut. If you use an ordinary casing, then, unlike a telescopic one, it can be fixed almost at the very edge of the box. In this case, you can cut to the very edge of the plank.

We combine the edges of the slats of the door frame, align them and fasten them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled the slats with a small diameter drill, if this is not done, when tightening the screws, the screws can split the bar. For drilling and tightening self-tapping screws, in our example, a versatile and inexpensive tool is used.

Marking and installation of door hinges

The door frame is assembled, now you need to check how accurate your assembly is and, if necessary, correct it. But, before that, you should hang hinges on the door leaf - so later it will be easier to mark the hinges on the box. First, properly fix the door leaf in such a way that it is convenient for you to work on its side end, you can lean the door on the edge of the wall, table, etc., the main thing is that the fastening is reliable.

Now in the door leaf you need to make recesses for the hinges. The distance from the edge of the door leaf to the beginning of the hinge is usually: 150 - 200 mm for the upper hinges and 200 - 300 mm for the lower ones. Having decided on the distance to the loops, use a tape measure to take the appropriate measurements, and mark the edges of the upper and lower loop recesses with a pencil. Then, take the hinge and, attaching it to the end of the door so that its side edge coincides with the border of the hinge recess made earlier, and the bottom edge (where both parts of the hinge connect) is in the same plane with front surface door leaf. Having positioned the loop in this way, circle its outline with a pencil. In the same way, mark the contour of the second loop. It is very important not to make a mistake when installing the hinges. Therefore, it is better to immediately assemble the loop, connecting both halves of it, open it and try it on the canvas in this form. Then close the hinge, imagine how your door will open and close, make sure that everything is done correctly and, only after that, take up the tool.

Take a chisel and lightly cut through the contour, holding the blade as shown in the figure, with the straight side towards the part to be removed - in order not to damage the edge of the notch, cut carefully, lightly hitting the chisel. To solve this problem, you can also use a construction knife.

Using a chisel, make selections for the loops, directing the blade at a slight angle to the end of the canvas, then clean the notches with a chisel or a construction knife.

Insert the loop into the recess, having previously disassembled it, the upper edge of the loop should be in the same plane with the surface of the canvas, or just barely protrude beyond it. If the hinge protrudes strongly, you should deepen the notch with a chisel; if the hinge is too recessed into the door, place a piece of paper under it, in which the hinges were packed, you can also use shavings, cardboard, etc. When the hinges are placed in the right way, screw their “temporary” small self-tapping screws, it is enough to use two self-tapping screws per hinge, so after installing the door leaf in the box, if necessary, you can adjust the position of the hinges using the remaining self-tapping screws.

At this stage, it is also possible to insert into the door of the castle, if it has already been purchased, this method has both pluses and minuses, but someone may prefer this particular option, in this example The lock will fit into the already installed door. (cm. ).

Lay the assembled door frame on the floor, then re-attach the hinge mating pieces to those screwed on the door leaf and carefully lower the door into the frame, as if closing it, if someone helps you with this - great. Before doing this, do not forget to carefully remove the shipping plastic or wooden legs from the bottom edge of the door leaf.

It is better to install the door together - this minimizes the risk of damaging the door itself, or the surrounding interior when moving it, because the doors are installed, as a rule, after the main part of the finishing work has been completed. Press the canvas firmly against the box with the side with the screwed hinges, and insert two toothpicks, matches, or a pair of tile wedges from above between the canvas and the box lath so that there is a uniform gap of about 2 mm. On the opposite side of the hinges, a small gap (2-4 mm) should remain between the door leaf and the box, from the bottom from the edge of the door to the edge of the box slats, the distance should be 4-10 mm. If all the gaps are met, and the build quality suits you, you can start marking the loops on the box. Draw a pencil along the top edge of the box plank, marking the edge line on the side of the hinges, then mark the bottom and top edges of the hinges on the box plank.

Take out the door leaf, disassemble the hinges, and make notches in the door frame strip, in the same way as described earlier, then, in the same way, screw the counterparts of the hinges with “temporary” self-tapping screws.

Preparing the door frame for installation

You can start installing the box in the doorway, but, first, you should decide on the method of attachment.

IMPORTANT: When installing door frames, it is mandatory to use rigid fasteners - mounting foam is used as an insulating material and additional (but not the main) fastener. A box fixed only with foam or adhesives deforms after some time, and the door will no longer close normally.

Fastening is carried out with screws directly to the supporting (side) sides of the doorway through holes pre-drilled in the box, it is also possible to fasten the box with metal corners to the side of the opening (the so-called "invisible fastening"). In our example, the first method of fastening is used. Most often, three fastening points are used on each side, it is not necessary to fasten the box on top, but if the box lath is not rigid enough, one or two additional fastening points can be placed on it. Screws are placed strictly symmetrically on both sides. You can place two of them (on one side of the box) under the hinges, thus, closing them, the middle screw on the opposite side, at the same time, is placed under the strike plate of the lock, which also masks it, in general, this is perhaps a little more aesthetically pleasing , however, the three fasteners are still visible, in addition, the final adjustment of the position of the door frame is best done with the door already installed in order to ensure the best quality installation, if the screws are under the hinges, this will not be possible.

In our example, the middle screws will be located slightly above the strike plate of the lock, while the outer ones, just below the hinges, this will make it easy to adjust the location of the box at any stage of installation. Since the door frame bar is quite rigid, there is no need to additionally fix it. Having roughly decided on the locations of the anchor points, you need to decide on what type of screws you should use. In the event that the doorway is located in a brick, or concrete wall for fastening the door frame, screws with plastic dowels are used, which are mounted in holes pre-drilled with a puncher or impact drill. If the opening is made of tongue-and-groove slabs, or if the supporting sides of the opening are made of wooden beam(aluminum profile reinforced with timber), self-tapping screws with a large thread pitch (for wood) are used, they are twisted directly into the material. In our case, the opening is located in the wall of tongue-and-groove slabs, in their end holes we fixed six pieces of wooden beam (20 * 20) on the gypsum mixture in advance, into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed.

Since the opening is always much wider than the door frame, to securely fasten it on one (or both) sides, spacers are inserted between the frame bar and the edge of the doorway, which are easy to make from the remnants of timber, rails, door frame slats, etc. In order to to determine the size of the screws, take the previously assembled door frame and, placing it in the opening, position it as necessary: if the depth of your doorway is much greater than the width of the box, and you use extensions, then the edge of the box on the side of the door opening is installed in the same plane with the wall - here you will install the platband, on the other hand, the extension will be installed first, and then the platband. In our example, extensions were not used, and the box was installed at a uniform distance from both planes of the walls. Regarding horizontal placement - try to place the hinged support side of the door frame as close to the edge of the opening as possible. Undoubtedly the most the best way- leveling the edges of the doorway along the level with the installation of perforated corners, this, of course, is a very laborious process, but at the stage of installing the doors, you will feel all the advantages of this technique. In this example, the opening is made in this way, so the side with the hinges is fixed close to the even edge of the opening, while the opposite side will be located at a distance of several centimeters from the edge of the opening. Thus, it can be easily determined that three self-tapping screws should be used with a length equal to the thickness of the box (about 25 mm) plus the depth of fastening of the self-tapping screw in the material of the opening (about 20-40 mm) from the side of the hinges; and three self-tapping screws with a length longer than the previous ones for a distance from the box to the edge of the opening. In any case, special accuracy is not required here - and it would be better if you have several sizes of fasteners at hand, since you never know in advance - what surprises may await you during the installation process, and, perhaps, the position of the box will have to be adjusted.

Also at this stage, you can already decide on the size of the wedges with which you have to strengthen the door frame. Without removing the box, mark on it first (without pressing hard on the pencil) - where exactly the fixing points will be located, in our case they should coincide with the pieces of timber fixed at the edges of the opening. If you have a different method of fixing (using plastic dowels, or directly into the material), then you will not need such accuracy, and, nevertheless, make sure that there will be no obstacles in the places where the screws are fixed - fittings, nails, wires, etc. d.

Pull out the box. Using a tape measure, measure and mark the final six holes for fasteners, remember - it is desirable to arrange the holes symmetrically, it looks much more aesthetically pleasing.

Drill with a drill or a puncher in the “drilling without impact” mode the marked holes along the edges of the door frame, while choosing the diameter of the drill should be such that the self-tapping screw passes into the hole without effort, this will facilitate adjusting the location of the box horizontally. The distances from the edge of the box strip to the centers of the holes must be the same.

IMPORTANT: Do not forget that the mounting screws will then be masked by decorative plugs, so the holes for them should not be located too close to the door ledge of the box. To perform marking within a few centimeters, it is very convenient to use a caliper.

Having drilled holes, it is necessary to expand them from above, so that the head of the self-tapping screw, when it is fully tightened, does not protrude beyond the plane of the bar. To do this, use a drill, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the head of the self-tapping screw. Drill the existing holes with it to a shallow depth (2-3 mm), then clean the edges of the hole with a construction knife (you can also use a needle file). If you have to use screws that are larger than expected, adjust the holes using an appropriately sized drill bit.

Now you need to make mounting wedges. To do this, use a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw to cut small (50-70 mm) pieces of timber; you can also use trimmings of the box planks. Further, using a chisel, and setting it with a tip to the end of the bars at a slight slope, and hitting it with a hammer, we split the rectangles along. Since the chisel is at an angle, you should end up with several trapezoidal wedges.

When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed with the installation.

Installing and fixing the door frame

IMPORTANT: If you are installing alone, you must first align and secure one side of the box, and only then the other. When installing together, you can mark and fix both sides at once.

Place the door frame in the opening, carefully align one side of it in the plane of the walls (the building level, at the same time, is applied to the end of the box), and then, using a drill with a long drill, lightly drill three places for self-tapping screws through the holes you drilled earlier. If in your case, the geometry of the opening allows you to fasten the side with loops close to its edge - it is better to start, of course, from this side.

Remove the box and drill holes in the opening for the self-tapping screws you have chosen. If you do not do this, the self-tapping screw will not be able to go deep enough into the material. Use a drill with a diameter of about half the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Reinstall the box in the opening and fix one side of it (it is better to use "temporary" screws of shorter length so as not to destroy the wall material), then align it in the plane of the walls and mark the opposite side of the box. Then unscrew the screws, remove the box and drill the remaining three mounting holes in the doorway.

When using screws with plastic dowels for fastening, the sequence of actions is similar, only the holes in the edges of the doorway, of course, are made of the same diameter as the dowels, which, in turn, should fit tightly into the mounting holes and not hang out in them. Finally install the door frame in the opening, strengthen it with wedges and tighten all six screws, but not completely. Take the building level and, align both sides of the box in the plane of the doorway (applying the level to the wide front side boxes), by installing wedges of different thicknesses, achieve the correct position of the box, in which its sides will form perfectly straight lines, forming an angle of 90 ° with the floor.

IMPORTANT: The door frame must be located strictly vertically both in the plane of the walls and in the plane of the doorway, the slightest deviation - and the subsequently installed door will touch the floor when opened, or will not be able to close normally.

Having reached the desired result, tighten the screws completely. Seal the holes with self-tapping screws with decorative overlays, choosing the desired color and texture.

The small seams remaining on the box at the joints, if desired, can be filled with a special sealant for wood, also choosing the appropriate shade.

Fixing the door leaf on the box

Secure the door leaf by hanging it on the hinges. Tighten the remaining "temporary" screws.

IMPORTANT: If you try to immediately tighten the “factory” self-tapping screws, without first making holes for them, you can easily break the notches on the head, since the complete fasteners are usually of extremely poor quality.

After installation is completed, fill the gaps between the box and the load-bearing wall with mounting foam.

IMPORTANT: Before applying foam, dampen absorbent surfaces with a conventional sprayer. Also, do not forget to stick cardboard folded in several layers on the door leaf with masking tape - so that the foam does not cause a change in the geometry of the box when it dries. It is better to use professional foam, which does not expand when cured. If the voids are too voluminous, apply the foam in several stages.

For installation, you will need a tool and basic building skills. The quality of the work performed depends on accurate measurements. The slightest distortions will lead to jamming of the sash, the formation of cracks. Door units are sold assembled or disassembled. In the second case, the installation will be more difficult due to the need for self-assembly of the boat.

The installation of doors begins with the preparation of the tool. For installation work you will need:

To put the door evenly, you need a plumb line and a level. For measurements, as well as marking, use a tape measure with a pencil.
The process of assembly and installation of interior doors includes the final finishing with platbands, and, if necessary, extensions. For cutting planks, a hacksaw with fine teeth, a miter box is useful.
From a power tool, you need a drill with a set of drills for concrete and wood, as well as a screwdriver.
It is easier to make selections for fittings with a cutter, but in the absence of a tool, you can get by with a chisel with a hammer.

From the materials used self-tapping screws, mounting foam, as well as many wooden wedges of different thicknesses for spacers. Immediately you need to decide how to put the interior doors so that the fasteners are not visible.

If preference is given to flush mounting, additional suspensions are purchased. You can fix the boat with anchors. Drown the hats in hidden holes, putty, and paint over the top.

How to install an interior door with your own hands?

With the ability to use the tool, the installation of doors can be done independently. It is important to initially make all accurate measurements in order to avoid distortions. In general terms, the procedure for installing an interior door consists of the following processes:

If the frame is sold disassembled, it will have to be assembled. This work increases the installation time of the interior door, and also complicates the process.
All elements of the door unit are equipped with fittings: handles, locks, heck. On a system consisting of rollers and guide rails. When installing a swing door, the canvas is attached to the boat with hinges.
After assembling the structure, the installation of doors in the apartment begins with. In the opening, the frame is fixed with anchors or suspensions, and the gaps are blown with foam.
A sash is hung on the installed boat, adjusted, set with.

To fulfill correct installation do-it-yourself interior door, even before buying a door block for sure. The dimensions of the frame must be smaller from the passage, otherwise it will have to. It is optimal to withstand the gaps when installing an interior door between the boat and the wall - from 10 to 40 mm.

Mandatory, but needed if the depth of the opening exceeds the size of the frame. The protruding sections of the wall are hidden under decorative strips. Step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the installation process.

Box assembly

They begin the installation of the interior door by unpacking the purchased unit, inspecting all the components. The door frame can be sold assembled or disassembled for individual elements with fastening grooves.

If a boat is purchased with ready-made fasteners, it only needs to be assembled. The frame is sold from elements sawn to size. There can be three of them: a feigned and hinged rack, as well as a ceiling top bar. If a threshold is provided, then the fourth element is included in the kit.

To assemble the frame, plugs are knocked out from the ends of the racks along with the connecting pins. The edges of the vertical and horizontal frame elements are joined so that the mounting holes coincide. The connecting pins are hammered with a hammer, and the holes are closed with plugs.

During the knocking out of the plugs, blows are applied through wooden linings to prevent the destruction of the decorative coating.

Much more difficult, sold in the form of blanks from figured lined timber. You will need a woodworking tool, as well as basic knowledge of carpentry. consists of the following steps:

First measure the sash. The length of the frame elements is calculated so that between inside boats and canvas around the entire perimeter formed a gap of 3 mm. If it is planned to install a sealing gum, the size of the gap is calculated taking into account its thickness.

The blanks are marked, then sawn with a hacksaw on wood with fine teeth at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Direct docking is easier. To properly saw off the corner, the workpiece is placed in the miter box. Connect the prepared elements of the box with long self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes.

It is easier for an inexperienced person to install doors without a threshold, since only three elements will have to be connected. The shape of the box is made in the form of the letter "P". The edges of the upper jumper are laid on the ends of the racks. Each joint is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

The sash is placed in the finished frame. Measure the gaps between the door and the frame on three sides, adhering to the desired 3 mm. Racks from below will rest on the floor. The length is calculated so that a gap of 8–15 mm is obtained between the floor covering and the lower end of the sash.
To install the threshold of an interior door, the box is assembled from four elements. The lower jumper is inserted between the uprights, then fixed with self-tapping screws. The gap between the threshold and the end of the sash is 3 mm.

After the box is made, the door leaf is laid. Stepping back from above and below 25 cm, on the hinge stand, as well as the end of the sash, mark the places for mounting the hinges. So that the mounting plates do not protrude, recesses are chosen in the wood with a chisel or cutter.

Two ways to install the box

open way provides anchors. The frame is inserted into the opening. Exposed vertically and horizontally. All measurements are carried out with a level, as well as a plumb line. Observing a gap of 10 to 40 mm, wooden wedges are driven in between the box and the walls. By knocking or loosening the spacers, the frame is perfectly even.

FROM inside boxes with a step of 50–60 cm drill through holes with hidden selections. Holes are made in the wall with a concrete drill. The anchor is screwed in so that the hat is hidden inside the hidden sample. After a level check, the gap between the wall and the frame is blown out with foam. Hidden holes are puttied and then painted over.

Second closed way installation of the box involves the use of suspensions used in the manufacture of a frame for drywall, or a special mounting system. The metal bar is screwed with screws to the wrong side of the frame. The box is inserted into the interior opening, wedged with wooden wedges, the suspension petals are bent onto the wall, fixed with self-tapping screws with plastic dowels.

Dobor installation

When installing the door unit in a deep interior opening, the frame is not able to close the entire wall. If the width of the box is not enough, then use. Decorative strips are installed on the longitudinal groove of the frame, having previously lubricated the lock with glue. If the door frame does not provide for a lock for extensions, the slats are fixed through hidden holes with self-tapping screws. The optimal fastening step is 60 cm.

Door leaf installation

Before installing the door, the canvas is equipped with fittings. Awnings on the market different types and flowers. The place for their fastening is determined even before the installation of the box. For an interior sash, it is popular to install butterfly awnings that do not require a tie-in.

Two hinges are installed on a light sash, stepping back 25 cm from above and below. A heavy canvas is reinforced in the center with a third canopy. With the open method of fixing the box, the anchors are positioned so that they do not interfere with screwing the hinges with self-tapping screws. If the installation of interior doors was carried out in a hidden way on suspensions, there is no problem with the location of the fasteners.

The gap between the end face of the sash and the hinge post of the frame must be 6 mm. First, mark the place for fastening at the end of the sash. A notch is selected under the mounting plate of the loop with a chisel. Canopies are screwed with self-tapping screws.

The door leaf, together with the hinges, is inserted into the box. The sash is bursting with wedges so that gaps form around the perimeter. Places for sampling recesses are marked on the hinge stand. The canvas is removed from the frame, a recess is selected with a chisel, then the second halves of the canopies are screwed with screws.

The handle with a lock is installed at a height of 90 cm from the floor. The body of the locking fittings is applied to the sash at a measured height. With a pencil, mark the location of the handle, outline the boundaries of the castle. At the end of the canvas, a recess is chosen with drills or a chisel. For handles drilled through hole. The nest is treated with varnish, a lock is installed, the body is fixed with self-tapping screws, and then the handles are inserted. On the rack of the box opposite the lock, a selection is made, a counter plate of the locking fittings is placed.

To install the doors with your own hands without defects, the process of hanging the sash is carried out after the mounting foam has completely hardened.

Trim fastening

The final installation of the door block is. Decorative strips are placed on both sides of the interior opening. sell wooden, plastic or MDF. The shape is simple flat, with a bevel or curly. to the end of the interior box with a lock connection, screwed with screws or nailed. Planks can be glued, but the adjacent wall must be perfectly flat, finished with a durable cladding.

To perform a simple installation of the door trim, first fix the horizontal bar in level. The edges are pre-cut at an angle of 45o. Vertical strips are installed from the floor. From above mark the cut line at the same angle. The joint is made as tight as possible. In case of crack formation, putty is used. After hardening, the flaws are painted over.

Platbands can be joined at right angles. The top bar is inserted between the vertical elements or laid on top of the end.

Stop setting

The hinged interior door opening on the run by children hits the wall with handles. spoils decorative trim and even the plaster is crumbling. It helps to install a door stopper that prevents the canvas from opening completely.

The stop is a barrel with a rubber nozzle. The limiter is installed after the installation of the door block and all finishing work. The interior sash is opened to the desired position. On the floor mark the location of the stop. A hole is drilled with an electric drill, a fixing screw is driven in and the limiter is clamped.

How to change the canvas?

Often, during repairs, only the replacement of the door leaf is required. The procedure is much easier than installing an interior door from scratch.

The old canvas is removed from the hinges. Canopies usually consist of two detachable halves. To remove the interior sash, it is enough to pry it open from the bottom with a mount. If in hinges the axial rod is inserted from above, the canvas will not be removed. First, a screwdriver is inserted under the cap of the rod, then it is knocked out of the nest with hammer blows. Dismantling starts from the bottom loop. After removing the rods, the sash can be easily removed.
Two canvases are compared in size, stacked on top of each other. If the new fold is larger than the old one, mark the boundaries with a pencil. Extra sections are cut off by hand circular saw. Slices are adjusted with a planer, processed with a grinder.
The door leaf fitted to the size is equipped with hinges, a lock, a handle.
Hanging on the loops occurs in the reverse order.

If the new canvas was adjusted, the cut points must be masked. The paintwork material is selected close in color or the entire canvas is completely repainted.

Do not rush to buy a new door and moldings if the work on preparing the doorway has not yet been completed. Accurate measurement of the finished pass plays a key role in choosing the right accessories. What stages the work on preparing the opening for installing a new interior door breaks down into will tell the hypermarket of interior doors "Dverka":

dismantling the old door;
removal of platbands from the walls;
getting rid of the insulating material between the opening and the box;
sawing the old door frame in the middle of the height;
removal of the side parts of the box;
sawing off the upper beam;
removal of the threshold (if one was available);
complete cleansing opening from foam or any other insulating material;
clarification of the opening dimensions recommended by the door manufacturer;
leveling and plastering a "bare" hole in the wall to an ideal U-shape using a level.

Then, when the opening has become perfectly flat, check it. The thickness of the walls on both sides should be the same, and it should not differ along the length of the doorway. The top line should be strictly parallel to the floor. The slightest alignment errors can skew the future door, so this moment must be taken with particular scrupulousness. Good independent work on dismantling and preparing for the installation of a new door will save a lot Money, so it makes sense to get to know this technique better. If you cannot trust yourself in such matters or do not want to spend time and effort on this procedure, then specialists can easily do this work for you.

Quality assurance at the same time will be a worthy reason to shift the work to professionals. Take measurements of the resulting opening and contact the experts who will help you choose the door and moldings of the appropriate dimensions. Note that the floor covering must be taken into account when taking measurements, as it also has a certain volume. By the time the door is installed, the floor should at least be leveled so that the height during measurements is the same in all areas of the opening. It often happens that the doorway is not suitable for any of the standard doors.

Due to the sawing of the canvas or the additional width of the extensions, it is not always possible to adjust the materials for the existing hole. Work on narrowing or expanding the opening itself can be done by employees of the company in which you purchase the door and fittings. For a situation where it is necessary to narrow the passage for installing a door, save additional Decoration Materials, since the platbands are not always able to close the resulting gap between the opening and the box. In the next article, the Dverka store will talk about the types of door frames.

Reminder to the client

Standard blade width	Standard blade height	Recommended opening width	Recommended opening height
550mm	1900mm	630-650mm	1960-1980mm
600mm	1900mm	680-700mm	1960-1980mm
600mm	2000mm	680-700mm	2060-2080mm
700mm	2000mm	780-800mm	2060-2080mm
800mm	2000mm	880-900mm	2060-2080mm
900mm	2000mm	980-1000mm	2060-2080mm
1200mm (600mm+600mm)	2000mm	1280-1300mm	2060-2080mm