How to process raw wood. Protection and treatment of wood from decay and moisture

To determine the extent of the spread of rot, poke at the damaged wood with a screwdriver. Remove blistered paint from undamaged wood to allow trapped moisture to escape and the wood to begin to dry out.

Finding rotten wood

Check dangerous places

Wet rot is everywhere where rainwater has accumulated. The two most dangerous places are the bottom of the window sill and the bottom of the box. outer door. The joints open when the wood swells and water seeps through to the vulnerable end fibers. Then paint and varnish no longer save, and rot takes over.

Identify dry rot

Dry rot rarely appears on doors or windows; it needs damp, poorly ventilated conditions, such as under a first floor wooden floor. However, dry rot can also spread to hollow sash window frames if they are poorly looked after. Some old houses still have movable shutters that hide into the underground space when they are opened: dry rot from the underground can spread to them.

Fill with putty or replace wood

The easiest way to replace a small piece of rotted wood is to use a wood repair kit. However, if the damage is significant, if the wood is varnished or painted and the putty will be difficult to mask, cut out the rotten piece and replace it with a piece of new wood.

Let the wood dry

After removing all rotted areas, allow the wood to dry well before splicing with a new piece of wood or applying putty. Drying may take a week or two if the tree has absorbed a lot of water. However, you can speed things up with frequent pulses of hot air from the fan heater.
Glue a piece of plastic sheeting to the tree to protect it from rain, but not too tightly: air must circulate freely.

Application of a composition that gives wood strength

Antiseptic treatment

Be sure to read the label before using wood preservative, as some types of wood preservative can corrode metal fittings and damage window and door frame adhesives, while other types of wood preservative can kill surrounding plants if they come into contact with them. When applying an antiseptic, rubber gloves, goggles and a respirator make up the necessary set of protective equipment.
For complete protection, especially when the antiseptic is applied with a spray rather than a brush, wear a disposable raincoat with an elastic hood and a respirator.

The lower crown of the bath, which is the least protected from moisture, or wooden frame rots in the first place. This can be prevented by timely processing of the first link. This article is for those who want to keep the lower crown and want to do it right. How to process the lower crown of a bathhouse or a wooden frame from a bar and how to do it correctly will be discussed below.

Without understanding the cause, it is impossible to prevent decay and extend its service life. And the replacement of this link is painstaking and costly work, requiring special knowledge and skills. By determining the cause of rotting, it is possible even at the stage when a house is being built from a bar, it is possible to prevent undesirable consequences. The main reasons include:

Broken or incorrect waterproofing between concrete pouring And brickwork top of the foundation of the house. Usually, roofing material is used for these purposes. So moisture does not rise up through the pores of the brick, and a wet base under the first crown of a bath or a log house from a bar is not the best option.
Broken or improperly laid second layer of waterproofing between the bottom log and the foundation surface.
The “vents” are not fulfilled and the foundation with the lower links is not ventilated.
Precipitation fell and stagnated on the roofing felt, as there is no protective ebb. It is performed in different ways, the easiest way is to close the joint along the perimeter with a board or cylindering. You can purchase a ready-made drain and install it on the basement of the foundation of the house due to a small extension beyond the masonry. Another option is a concrete screed along the upper part of the foundation with a slope from the log house, covered from above by any roof.
Insufficiently processed lower crown.

The absence of any of the above factors will lead to rotting of the log cabin of the bath.

What crown treatments are best to use?

exist folk ways than to process the lower crown of the bath and modern compositions such as: Senezh, Belinka, Tikkurila. For greater savings, it is better to use folk and proven means, but appearance processing in this case will not be the best. For more decorative, traditional ones are suitable. The second option is advised to use by professionals, as it is safer and more proven. Of course, acquiring expensive coverage, no one is immune from fakes, the quality of which is not even worth talking about. For this reason, most people prefer the old-fashioned ways of processing the first link of the bath and building a house from glued beams. Let's talk about those and others in more detail.

Folk remedies

Use a solution of copper sulfate. To do this, a log of natural moisture is placed on the end, and a bag with a rag heavily soaked in copper sulfate is tied up on top. The rag should be in contact with the end of the beam. Under the influence of natural movements of juices inside the wood, the timber will be saturated with saline and will protrude from below. The rag must be soaked all the time so that it does not dry out. After that, it is well dried under a canopy. Craftsmen offer to soak the log in a bath with copper sulphate. Immediately make a reservation that this method is not safe for health. When heated, copper sulfate emits toxic fumes for humans.
Treat the lower crown of the bath or at home with propolis and oils, then rub with wax. The method looks somewhat fantastic, but it is used in the villages and it is time-tested, although laborious.
The famous method of processing in the West and among the Finns. It is prepared from ingredients available to everyone: flour (rye or wheat) - 750-800g, copper sulfate - 1.5 kg, table salt - 400 g, lime (slaked) - 1.5 kg are diluted in 10 liters of water. Cooking: While stirring constantly, water is added to the flour, achieving the state of sour cream. 5 liters of water is heated not to a boil and poured while stirring. Then everything is mixed and filtered. The finished mixture is heated, stirring constantly, adding vitriol and salt. Slaked lime is added last. It is necessary to cover the crown with a warm composition in 2 layers, after the first has completely dried. Experts say that such processing at home is enough for 10-15 years. With this composition, you can even process the bottom of the floor in baths and completely build a house from profiled timber.
Softwood timber is the least susceptible to decay and can be treated with birch tar or spruce resin. Such compounds will protect the wood from bugs, but have a strong unpleasant odor, in addition, spruce resin is sticky. After such processing, the crowns of the house cannot be painted or sanded. It is also a fire hazard, as these substances are highly flammable. Therefore, it is customary to treat with such compounds the part that is in contact with the ground.
In rural areas, the lower link of the log cabin of a bath from a bar can be processed by working off motor oils. The biggest plus of such processing is cheapness. Apply it in a heated or cooled state in several layers, allowing the previous one to soak well. 90% of this composition consists of mineral oils, and they repel water well. The soot contained in the used oil protects the logs from the sun and is an antiseptic. But it has already been proven that impregnation in this way is not of sufficient quality, since it does not penetrate the wood evenly. In addition, such a coating has a mourning color.
The method of processing timber with bitumen or tar has not gone away. Underground structures are processed with such compositions heated and mixed with diesel fuel. Today, manufacturing companies offer modern bituminous impregnations and mastics.
Drying oils and oils, they can only conditionally be attributed to folk, since these compounds are the basis of varnishes and modern paints. Hold for a long time, do not peel off and do not crack. For deeper penetration, it is better to apply warm. So they will be more fluid.
Moisture penetrates best from the ends of the link; to prevent this, the ends are “riveted”. To do this, the ends of the bath logs are tapped with a rubber or wooden hammer. This treatment will help the wood stay dry longer and prevent cracking.
Burning the surface of the beam blowtorch. This method is not safe, but a thin layer of burnt wood serves good antiseptic and destroys the capillaries through which moisture enters the tree.

Traditional processing aids

Such processing includes all kinds of drying oils, impregnations, coatings. Let's talk about some of them in more detail.

"Senezh"

Produced by SENEZH-Preparaty LLC. It has been tested and certified by Rospotrebnadzor of the Ministry of Health and Social Development of the Russian Federation. Fire bioprotective composition produced in polyethylene canisters of 5, 10, 65 and 1000 kg. Performs the role of complex protection of wood, including the lower crown. Do not use after varnish, drying oil or any other water-repellent composition. Included in the 2nd group in terms of the effectiveness of fire protection according to NPB 251-98. The term of protection is up to 20 years. Does not change the color of wood, does not prevent the penetration of air. Has no smell. It has penetrating properties and accumulates in the inner layers of wood, preventing the penetration of moisture and fungi.

Processing: It is applied to the cleaned wood with a roller, brush or sprayer at a temperature not lower than +50C. You need to apply in 2-3 layers, allowing the previous one to dry for 20-40 minutes. Do not process a frozen link or mix with other impregnations. Must be mixed before application. Consumption: 600 g/m2 (1.6-1.7 m2/kg).

"Belinka"

Produced by the Australian manufacturer "Belinka". Certified by the Australian Holzforschung Institute. To protect the crown, use Belinka Base.

Impregnation - primer Belinka is a deeply penetrating composition of alkyd resin and biocides. Protects wood from fungus, pests, blue, moisture. Creates a protective biocidal layer on the surface. Unlike other compounds, it has several types of biocides, which increases the level of protection several times. Available in containers of 1, 2.5, 5 and 10 liters.

Treatment: Apply with a roller or brush on the cleaned surface in 2 coats. Drying of each layer 6-12 hours. Application temperature from +10C. At sub-zero temperatures, it can also be used, but it will dry for more than 12 hours. Consumption: 1l / 5-10m2.

The manufacturer is the Finnish company Tikkurila Oy. The company has been operating in the industry of paints and varnishes and antiseptics for over 100 years. For the treatment of baths and wooden houses from moisture, blue fungi and mold, the Tikurilla Vinha and Valti product lines are used. These lines are specially designed for adverse climatic conditions. They can be used for both external and internal work.

Forming products protective film on wood is produced under the names "Color Extra" and "Color Satin". Absorbent protective lines "Aqua Color", "Color", primer "Pohyuster".

Each of the listed coatings are antiseptics and protective agents against moisture and rot. All of them can be colored or coated on top with paints on wood. Available in 2.5, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 50, 100 liters. The term of protection is 5-10 years.

Processing: Apply to the cleaned surface with a brush or roller in 2-3 layers. Application temperature from +50C. Each layer should dry from 2-3 hours. Water-based antiseptics can be applied with a sprayer, as shown in the video:

The price of traditional coatings

You can buy coatings for the crown of a bath or at home at any hardware store or market, and even on the Internet. Be sure to ask the seller to show the certificate for the purchased products. Due to the high popularity of these protective equipment, counterfeits that are not safe for health began to appear on the market.

It is easy to distinguish a fake from a quality product:

Too low price.
Poor quality packaging.
Lack of supporting documentation.

For the convenience of readers, we present the average price for coatings in Russia for 2014 in the form of a table:

As can be seen from the table, Senezh will be the most profitable option for processing the first crown of your bath or home. Tikkurila is the most expensive. Quality in this case depends little on the brand. Which processing of the first crown to use will be the envy of your buying opportunities. Professional products are safer and quality tested.

during construction or repair work wood processing from rotting and moisture must be carried out without fail.

Wood has long been used in construction to this day: it is used to build houses, make verandas, benches, a roof, and is used in interior decoration.

But since this material is "alive", it is subject to natural decay, to prevent which various methods are used.

Wood processing methods can be divided into synthetic and folk.

The most persistent remedy for decay and insects is propolis and vegetable oil. Propolis and oil are taken in a ratio of 1:3. The finished, thoroughly mixed mixture is applied with a rag or soft sponge to dry, clean wood, which must be completely saturated. Oil impregnation will take a fairly large amount of time;
In the old days, resin was the best assistant in the fight against rot. Hot resin covered logs, fences, facades of houses - everything that was built of wood;
A solution of copper sulfate: diluted 100 g per 10 liters of water. This tool requires thorough drying. Wood treated from insects with a solution of copper sulfate can dry up to one month (the longer the better), while it is undesirable for direct sunlight to fall on it. For these purposes, a canopy is made;
The next tool for treating wood from insects and decay is hot bitumen. But when heated, it releases harmful substances, so this is not the best remedy;
Wood can be processed with used engine oil, which perfectly protects against rot, fungus, and all kinds of insects. Its disadvantage is synthetic origin, and oil can also contribute to ignition;
If the tree has already undergone the appearance of mold, then the affected areas are sprinkled with baking soda, and then vinegar is sprayed from the spray bottle.

Synthetic methods of material processing, in turn, are divided into water-soluble antiseptics and organic, oily, pastes.

There are a lot of synthetic impregnations. It is worth noting that each tool has its own purpose.

Some of them protect against moisture, others from various insects, and others prevent the spread of fire, mold and other types of fungus.

Lessons of professional woodworking on video.

Protecting wood from moisture

A tree with a high concentration of moisture tends to swell, exfoliate and then shrink. Avoiding humid air is sometimes simply not possible.

And the wood itself has a high hygroscopicity. In this case, resort to the use of special solutions.

Solutions for protecting wood material from moisture are divided into penetrating and film-forming.

The first group of products is more reliable, because it impregnates all the wood both from the outside and from the inside.

The treatment of wood from decay by the second group of means should not be one-time, the process of applying solutions should be periodic.

The applied agent does not change the color of the material, it only allows moisture not to penetrate and not destroy the tree.

Also one of effective means is an oil that, when applied, can darken the color of the wood.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the oil gets into all the cracks and cavities, soaks the material "from and to".

The oil should be applied once a month for maximum effect.

How to protect wood with wax, see the video.

Protecting wood from decay

The appearance of mold or fungus is the first sign of rotting wood material. In order to get rid of germs with your own hands, you can use the folk method - vinegar and soda.

Treating the wood with an antiseptic (before painting) will help in case of an already spreading fungus.

The most famous tool among antiseptics is "senezh". It gives excellent protection (up to 35 years!) to wood products both indoors and outdoors.

"Senezh" is also well suited for material that has constant contact with moisture and other difficult conditions. Why is "senezh" so popular?

Because due to its synthetic origin (is safe product) penetrates deeply and binds to the wood, remaining in it for a long time.

"Senezh" is used in the processing of fresh wood and previously processed. If the material has been treated with a film-forming coating, varnish, drying oil, paint, then the "senezh" will be useless.

For proper surface treatment with the Senezh antiseptic, you first need to clean the wood from dirt, dust and old coatings. "Senezh" can be applied to wet wood.

To do this, you will need an easily accessible tool: a roller, brush or sprayer.

In addition to the antiseptic "senezh", there are a number of other means, for example, "Neomid 500" - also prevents the appearance of fungus and mold.

"Drevosan Profi" is also able to protect wood products from insects. There is also Biokron, Biosept and others.

Natural and artificial drying are excellent methods in the fight against premature decay and the appearance of mold.

The natural disadvantage is that the method takes a long period of time, up to several months. The tree is placed under a protective canopy and dried.

Drying technology see video tutorials.

Artificial - used in cases where there is no time to dry naturally. The tree is placed in special chambers or in a container with petrolatum.

If you decide to build wooden house with your own hands, then when erecting the foundation, you need to calculate everything so that the tree does not touch the ground, and is as high as possible from it.

We protect the tree from insects and fire

The main pests are weevils, grinders, and bark beetles can also be found.

It is thanks to them that holes are formed on a wooden surface; bark beetles can be distinguished from the holes in the form of a star.

To prevent the appearance of such a "perforation", antiseptic treatment is applied.

You can use the same solution "senezh", "tonoteks" or take up folk remedies: treat with paraffin, wax, tar solution in turpentine.

Preventive work can be done with ordinary table salt.

If a house or an extension is made from scratch, then it is better to pre-treat the wood material with special impregnations and solutions.

Treatment of wood from fire is carried out with special means, fire retardants. But their use does not help to avoid the fire, just contributes to its slower spread.

It is possible to prevent the appearance of fire only with small sources of ignition.

Traditional Processing Methods

Wood treatment with antiseptic is important method protection against decay, insects, fungi, but acrylic and oil enamels, varnishes, drying oil, wax remain the main coating of wood.

Before painting, remove the old coating, clean the surface, eliminate all cracks and irregularities with putty, and sand.

It is worth puttingty only on a dry surface of a tree, otherwise it will be simply pointless to cover with drying oil, stain or varnish.

Waxing technology has not changed over time, the soft look of which is rubbed into the surface with a cloth.

Hard wax is first melted in a water bath, and then the wooden surface is covered with wax using a brush.

Acrylic enamels form a surface resistant to external influences: to UV rays, temperature changes. Therefore, such coverage does not require frequent renewal.

Lacquering is used mainly in interior decoration. The varnish emphasizes the natural beauty of the wood, provides protection against moisture, resistance to scratches, impacts.

Drying oil treatment is used for all wooden products. Drying oil can be obtained by heating linseed oil.

But oil in its pure form is difficult to process in the sense that it is absorbed for a long time and can get dirty. Therefore, synthetic substances are added to the composition to speed up drying.

Drying oil treatment is used to eliminate insects and how preparatory work before varnishing, painting. If you pass the tree with drying oil, then the consumption of decorative material decreases.

Antique woodworking

To create a special interior, pieces of furniture are decorated antique. This can be done with your own hands, and at home.

Using a milling manual machine, you can decorate the door or any other antique item.
See video.

Antique wood processing methods:

Brushing is the removal of soft wood fibers. An iron brush is the main tool in this matter. After the procedure, the tree is polished and covered with stain, drying oil and varnish on top;
Antique wood can be processed as follows: in order to raise the pile, the surface is wetted with water and dried, after which it is polished. Next, a dark-colored water-based stain is applied, which, to create a wear effect, is slightly moistened with water, without waiting for drying. Next, a tool is taken: a hammer, a drill, an awl, and scratches are applied, dents are made. The resulting damage is filled with a dark-colored putty. The surface is once again treated with a stain (not water-based) and dried;
There is a simple way to process antique items: the main tool is an iron brush, which is used to process the surface, then a brush is taken, dipped in glossy white paint, and then immediately wiped almost dry. The ridges of the object pass with a brush, leaving dark furrows. Everything is varnished on top. Thus, you can make individual semi-antique interior items with your own hands.

Decorating antique furniture with your own hands is not difficult, see the lessons on the video.

Work with machines

To create a beautiful wooden object with your own hands, you need to have a machine tool at hand. No machine required to work large sizes, for self-processing, manual is quite suitable.

How to process a tree with your own hands, you can learn, watch video tutorials.

To sharpen a workpiece, use lathe. The planer allows you to achieve more accurate dimensions during processing.

A grinding machine is necessary, but when working with small products, it can be replaced with ordinary sanding.

The saw machine is used in cases of a large amount of wood processing. For work at home, these machines can be replaced.

The main hand tools in woodworking are a saw, a hacksaw and a planer. This tool is usually used when fitting small finished items.

To create a beautiful carving with your own hands, use milling machine. See the video for the carving technique.

The machine is designed for a large amount of wood and its fast processing, if necessary, you can rent it or take a regular tool, make more effort and do it yourself.

Wood is a common, easy to process and environmentally friendly material. It is used in various areas of construction: baths and houses are built from wood and used for internal and exterior finish. Wood is also used to create furniture and various interior items (from photo frames to stairs).

Wood has a significant drawback: it is prone to decay and does not tolerate moisture well. With increased humidity, a fungus quickly appears on the tree, it begins to rot, losing both its appearance and its qualities. Let's take a closer look at the reasons for this phenomenon, as well as analyze ways to protect wood from rotting and mold.

Causes of wood decay and mold

Of all building materials, wood is the most susceptible to mold and rot. The reasons are as follows:

Wood is a natural, living material. It contains enough nutrients for the full growth and reproduction of the fungus.
Natural materials are able to breathe, absorb moisture well. From moisture, the tree begins to rot and grow mold.
Even a well-dried tree still contains about 20% moisture, which is enough for mold to form. With proper processing, care and maintenance of wooden structures, mold and decay can not be afraid. But if the conditions are wrong, then the fungus will definitely appear.
Should not be installed wooden structures in the ground. In this case, it is almost impossible to protect them from moisture penetration (unless they are additionally covered with something on top).
This material is not suitable for rooms with high humidity and poor ventilation. If in such premises you cannot do without wood (for example, in baths), you need to properly care for them: ventilate, dry, warm.
The tree rots in underground rooms if they are not equipped with high-quality internal and external waterproofing and insulation. The reason is sudden changes in temperature and the formation of condensate.
The freezing of boards and logs also leads to an increase in humidity and, as a result, the formation of mold and decay.

Why is wood decay dangerous?

In addition to the fact that mold loves to live on wooden products, it is to them that it causes the greatest harm:

the aesthetic appearance of materials is lost;
strength is lost;
shape may change.
product degradation is accelerated.

In addition, mold growing indoors on finishing materials causes irreparable harm to human health.

Where is wood protection from rotting and mold needed in the first place?

Protecting wood from mold is always and everywhere needed. Especially if indoors are supported:

high humidity;
lack of sunlight;
poor ventilation (insufficient amount of fresh air, poorly working extractor fan, clogged ventilation shaft) or its absence;
direct contact with the ground;
sudden temperature changes.

The greatest attention to the protection of wooden structures should be paid in the following areas:

If direct contact of logs or boards with the ground is foreseen, it is necessary to provide maximum protection against moisture. This is true for sheds, chicken coops.
Often found on wooden racks and boxes. Also often found. In general, underground structures are a symbiosis of all necessary conditions for the growth of fungal colonies.
Often appears - with its improper arrangement and care for it.
Also, the processing of wooden products is needed in unheated rooms: in sheds, garages, attics.

How to understand that mold and rot have appeared on the tree?

Rotting wood emits a specific smell. If, upon entering the room, you heard a musty unpleasant smell of dampness, start searching for the “enemy”.

If the mold is not detected and destroyed immediately, wooden products begin to darken, a wet coating appears on them, and they become “soft” in appearance. If you inspect all wooden surfaces, you will find a coating of black, white, green or blue color on them (may be in the form of spots or fluff).

If measures are not taken on time, rot appears in the wood, which quickly begins to destroy its structure.

Protecting wood from rotting, mold and moisture: prevention methods

To prevent rot and mold from affecting wood products and Construction Materials, exist methods of its protection, as well as the rules of storage and care:

Before using wood, it must be properly dried.
It is necessary to strictly observe the rules for storing wooden products.
Before using wood materials, they need to be treated with special compounds.
It is necessary to create conditions under which mold cannot grow.

Below we will analyze each item in more detail.

Drying wood

If you are thinking about using wood as a building or finishing material, you need to start with the simplest: proper drying. The less moisture left in the wood, the less it will rot.

There are 4 ways to dry wood:

Drying in natural conditions. To do this, boards, logs or beams are placed in a dry, warm and well-ventilated room, where the material dries on its own. This is the longest method: it can take up to 1 year in time.
Forced drying. To do this, use hot air, constantly circulating in the room. This is an expensive method (the wood is dried in special chambers), but it is fast and efficient.
Waxing. To dry the wood in this way, it is immersed in paraffin and then placed in a kiln for several hours to be fired.
Steaming in linseed oil. This is an expensive method, used for small wooden products. To do this, they are placed in a vat of oil and boiled for several hours.

Forced drying methods, although expensive, take much less time. In addition, during forced drying, the material does not deform or crack (which can happen during natural drying).

How is lumber dried? (video)

Compliance with the rules of wood storage

When the material is dried, the next challenge arises: proper storage. The condition of the wood and the degree of susceptibility to fungus and mold directly depend on compliance with the rules.

The main task when storing logs, beams, boards and other products is to prevent an increase in their moisture content, so that later you do not look for answers to the question “why does wood rot?”. To do this, you must follow the following rules:

Material should be stored exclusively in above-ground hangars, ideally under natural (sun) light.
The room must be dry.
Air circulation is required.
The tree should not be in direct contact with the ground. It is necessary to stack materials on racks so that they do not pull moisture from the ground. Also, the air space below improves the air circulation in the room.
If there is no heating in the hangar, during periods of sudden temperature changes, periodic drying and heating should be carried out in order to prevent the formation of condensate.

Lumber storage example (video)

Coating wood with antiseptics

To understand how to protect a tree from mold and decay (how to impregnate it), you need to know where and for what purposes the product will be used. For internal work, one protective composition is used, for external work, another.

The condition of the wood also matters. One impregnation is used to protect a clean surface, the other is used to disinfect materials already affected by fungus and rot.

Paint is used when it is necessary not only to protect the material, but also to give it a certain color to preserve the style of the interior. For interior work, water-soluble compositions are more suitable, for exterior - paints based on organic solvents.

Antiseptic liquid is used, as a rule, when the wood has already been affected by mold, or it has begun to rot. There are 5 types of antiseptic compositions:

Water soluble. These include compositions with a base of zinc chloride, borax, fluorides and boric acid. They dry quickly, are odorless and non-toxic. It is not advisable to use them in rooms with high humidity, since they do not have water-repellent properties.
Water repellent. Increase the resistance of wood to moisture penetration. Used for baths, cellars, basements and other rooms with high humidity.
Antiseptics on organic solvents. These compositions can be used for both external and internal work. They create a dense protective film on the material, which dries up to 12 hours.
Oil antiseptics. They form a thick protective water-repellent film. Ideally protect wood in any, even the most extreme conditions. But, you can apply this tool only on perfectly dried wood. If moisture remains in the material, the oil antiseptic will not allow it to go outside and will create an ideal microclimate for the wood to rot from the inside.
Combined (the most expensive). Used for all types of wood, for indoor and outdoor use. In addition to antiseptic properties, they increase fire protection.

Wood preservative is produced by different companies. The following brands have proven themselves well:

Senezh;
Neomid;
Pinotex;
Vinha.

In addition to modern compositions, there are also folk remedies for protecting wood and removing mold, which you can do yourself:

resin;
silicate glue;
sodium biochromate;

Wood varnishing (video)

Creating conditions under which rotting and mold do not appear

In order not to have to remove mold and fight rotting, you need to create right conditions for wooden building materials:

Hydro and thermal insulation wooden surfaces, which are outside (on the street), or located underground. This will protect the material from temperature extremes, condensation, freezing and absorption of moisture from the soil.
If we are talking about interior decoration made of wood, there must be ventilation in the room, which ensures constant air circulation. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the ingress of sunlight and warming up the room.

Even observing all the rules of maintenance, one cannot be 100% sure that the fungus will not appear. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the wood. Especially carefully you need to inspect the corners and areas where moisture can get in and where sunlight does not penetrate.

Wood has long been one of the most durable and environmentally friendly materials. Therefore, it is used in repair and construction. It has a high level of decorativeness, which is why consumers often choose it to decorate their apartments and houses. However, the tree acts as a "living" material. Therefore, it needs processing that prevents damage and decay. Wood can be processed with synthetic means and folk methods. They will be discussed in the article.

Using folk methods

Protection of wood from moisture and decay can be carried out by folk remedies. They have many advantages over synthetic compounds. Such processing costs less. It is environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic. In addition, it is available to any home master.

Wood can be treated with propolis and sunflower oil. For this, materials are taken in a ratio of 1: 3. They should be mixed well and applied to the surface, previously cleaned of dust with a soft sponge. This method of protecting wood from moisture and decay is good because it is as strong as possible and helps to eliminate the formation of microorganisms. However, it has one big drawback, which is expressed in the fact that the material acquires an increased ability to ignite. Therefore, it should be considered whether it is advisable to use such impregnation in each individual case.

Quite often, iron sulfate is used by consumers for wood processing. To do this, you should purchase a ready-made solution that mixes well. A soft sponge or rag is dipped in it, which impregnates clean wood.

Protecting wood from moisture and decay with iron sulphate is ideal for round log, since the tool is not too expensive. In addition, it is extremely efficient. With strong impregnation, the material will be ready to serve for quite a long time, without providing for additional protection work. The disadvantage of this tool is only a long drying.

Wood impregnated with iron sulphate should be left in the open air, while exposure to sunlight should be excluded. You can use a special canopy for this. The material is left to dry from a week to a month.

Use of bitumen and motor oil

Another great option protecting wood from moisture and rotting with your own hands is the use of bitumen. This method is effective, but from the point of view of environmental friendliness it is not completely safe. This is due to the fact that concrete has the ability to release harmful substances when heated. For this reason, the use of bitumen is not always recommended.

Does not apply to completely environmental materials and automotive oil. However, it is widely used for wood processing. The oil is able to protect against rot, mold and bark beetle, however, it will not exclude fire, but will only contribute to this when exposed to flame. Therefore, this tool is not always possible to use.

Using the Finnish method

Protection of wood from moisture and decay can be done using the Finnish method. It is expressed in the use of the following materials:

salt;
flour;
water;
iron sulphate;
dry slaked lime.

The method is harmless, but is used to process the material that forms the basis of fences and roofs. The composition has unique properties that exclude its rapid washing out with water. To prepare the mixture, the components must be mixed to form a paste. The main part of it will consist of flour and water. The composition is heated over low heat, then applied to the tree in a warm form in two layers. After complete absorption and drying of the first layer, you can start applying the second.

Use of water-soluble antiseptics

Protection of wood from moisture and decay can be done with water-soluble antiseptics. They are able to create a kind of barrier on the surface, but they are washed out from constant contact with water. Therefore, after application, such a mixture will have to be periodically updated.

Among other similar solutions, ammonium and sodium silicofluorides, which are odorless powders, can be distinguished. They become transparent on contact with water. Impregnation with their help must be carried out very carefully so that the composition completely penetrates the fibers.

Another treatment option is sodium fluoride. It is a white powder and is easily washed off with water. This substance has one great advantage, which is expressed in the fact that it does not cause corrosion of the metal that may be in the tree. If you want to protect wood from decay and moisture, then you can use imported substances based on the following components:

zinc;
chlorine;
sodium;
potassium borax.

Such mixtures will cost more, but perfectly protect the wood. It is not recommended to use them in residential premises, as they are not so environmentally friendly and can emit toxic substances.

Use of organic and oily pastes

In addition to the above antiseptics, special organic substances and pastes can be used. They consist of water-soluble antiseptics, silicon fluorides and binders. The materials are resistant to moisture, so they can be used for processing external wooden structures. Over time, the paste is washed out, so it will periodically have to be applied to the base.

For better protection of structures after processing, their construction should be covered. waterproofing film. Protection of wood from decay and moisture can be carried out with oil antiseptics. This should include technical oils that are toxic. Among their main advantages are high antiseptic properties.

The material is not washed out by water and protects the wood from almost all types of fungus. Lineups oil type They have a strong odor and are dark brown in color. In a residential area, such an approach for protection is impractical, while oil antiseptics are excellent for piles, utility poles and bridge supports.

Drying oil use

Protecting wood from moisture and decay with drying oil can also be done. For this, some varieties of the mentioned composition are used. Among others, semi-natural mixtures should be distinguished, which allow the formation of a hard film with a high level of gloss on the surface. The base is waterproof. Semi-natural drying oil is good because it can be used in combination with paints and varnishes or as a primer.

Modifiers are added to the combined compositions, which improve the quality of the mixture. Combined drying oils can be used not only to protect wood, but also as a preparation before applying paint or plaster. When protecting wood from moisture and decay with your own hands using drying oil, you should not forget that the liquid will dry out within a day or more. During this period, a layer of paint or plaster should not be applied. Synthetic drying oils can be used for impregnation, and also act as a basis for diluting dark oil paints. Synthetic drying oil is excellent for external processing.

Products for wood in contact with the ground

Protection of wood from moisture and decay in the ground can be done with NEOMID 430 Eco. It is suitable for creating a reliable barrier on the surface of a material that is constantly in contact with the ground during operation. This substance is an antifungal antiseptic with indelible properties.

The material can be exposed not only to contact with the soil, but also to the action of ground salts, as well as precipitation. The composition can also cover external walls, load-bearing structures of beams, ceilings, logs and beams. Excellent mixture is suitable for door blocks and window openings.

This means of protecting wood from moisture and decay can be applied to truss systems, fences and hedges, as well as structural elements that are exposed to difficult atmospheric conditions and low temperatures. The described impregnation is radical. It is suitable for difficult operating conditions.

Antiseptic impregnation "Senezh"

To protect wood from decay and moisture, "Senezh" can be used. This antiseptic impregnation has a filter that reduces the effect of sunlight on the material. The composition is transparent. It is suitable for new and previously antiseptic-treated walls. Among the main properties, one can single out the absorbency into wood fibers and the formation of a weather-resistant polymer coating on its surface, which is distinguished by dirt and water repellency.

The number of applied layers can vary from 1 to 3. One square meter with a single layer application, approximately 60 g of the composition will be needed. You can work for impregnation with a roller, brush or spray. Such protection dries to the touch within one hour, while the base can be used three days after application.

Wood protection inside the bath

Choosing the protection of wood from moisture and decay in the bath, you should pay attention to Tikkurila Supi Arctic. This acrylic copolymer belongs to the environmental class M1. Water is used as a solvent. The agent is applied with a brush on a dry surface, where a film is formed, which excludes the absorption of moisture and dirt.

Another colorless impregnation is Tikkurila Supi Saunasuoya. It has a subtle smell and contains anti-mold components. The main task is to protect the ceiling and walls in the bath rooms with high humidity. This mixture also belongs to environmentally friendly materials, therefore it is not dangerous to humans.

The best bath products

When choosing the best wood protection against moisture and decay, you should pay attention to Teknos Sauna-Nature. This tool has a creamy consistency and a barely perceptible smell. Excellent for protecting wood inside the sauna and bath, including the steam room. The solvent is water. The mixture can be tinted in different colors.

Based on acrylic resins, Belinka Interier Sauna is made, which has water and special additives among the ingredients. This colorless protective agent is used for wooden rooms. The material has a low odor, and the color of the surface after the formation of the film does not change. The texture just stands out.

It is necessary to use the composition by applying it in two layers with a sprayer, roller or brush. The first layer will dry within 2 hours, the subsequent can be applied after three hours. This impregnation has a good value for money.

On the basis of acrylic resins, "Senezh Sauna" is made. This mixture contains special components and water. The transparent protective agent does not contain solvents and prevents sedimentation of contaminants on the surface. Fungus and insects do not penetrate inside. The protective agent is applied to the previously cleaned surface with a brush, velor or foam roller. You can use a spray gun for convenience. The manufacturer recommends applying layers in the amount of 1 or 2. This applies to the steam room. If wood processing is carried out in other rooms of the bath, then the number of layers can be increased to three.

Finally

Before proceeding with the protection of wood, it is necessary to select the means. They may be designed to prevent material contact with moisture or soil. On sale there are compounds that allow you to provide comprehensive protection. If you want to choose an environmentally friendly mixture, then it is better to use folk remedies, but factory-made impregnations become more effective solutions.

Wood is a durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material that is successfully used for the construction of private houses and baths on land plots. Despite the demand and excellent performance characteristics, it has a significant drawback - high hygroscopicity and susceptibility to decay. To prevent the possible destruction of wood fibers, high-quality and timely processing of wood from decay and moisture is required.

Causes of rotting wood

The main negative factor leading to the destruction of wood is the development of mold and pathogenic microorganisms. Primary contamination of the material may occur as a result of a violation of production technology, improper transportation or storage.

The active development of pathogens occurs under the influence of the following factors:

High air humidity - from 75 to 100%.
Increased moisture content of wood - over 18%.
Insufficient air exchange in the storage.
Significant temperature fluctuations.
Continuous direct contact with the ground.
Wind load, exposure to precipitation and sunlight.

Wood pretreatment

In order to properly process wood, it is necessary to take into account the main signs of the destructive state of the material. The rotting process begins when a beam or log is infected with a fungus (the most dangerous type of mold is a brownie fungus, which destroys even pre-treated material).

The initial stage of the appearance of rot is accompanied by the following signs:

Change in the structure of wood, the appearance of softness and friability.
The formation of small cracks, chips and damage.
Change in natural color.
The appearance of a characteristic rotten smell.

Proper protection of wood from decay and moisture significantly extends the life of the material up to 30 years.

Effective ways to deal with excessive moisture and decay

There are two effective ways to protect a tree from negative factors: antiseptic and conservation.

Preservation involves the application of a protective composition of deep penetration. In this case, the wood is subjected to long-term cold or hot soaking or preservative treatment using a diffuser or autoclave. A similar technology is used in the conditions of industrial preparation of the material.

Antiseptic treatment involves pre-treatment of wood with special means using a roller or spray gun. When choosing an antiseptic, it is important to take into account the design features and the conditions of its operation.

For maximum protection wooden board, timber or logs, antiseptics, impregnations, varnishes and paints on an organic, inorganic and combined basis can be used.

Antiseptic formulations

Wood preservatives are effective when there are already serious pockets of mold infestation.

To combat it, the following compositions are used:

With water repellent properties. Deep penetration compounds are used to protect wood from decay and destruction. They are intended for processing wooden houses, baths and outbuildings.
Water based. They are developed on the basis of fluoride and fluorosilicic compounds of boric acid, borax and zinc chloride. Fast-drying and safe formulations that can be used to protect surfaces susceptible to moisture.
On an organic basis. The compositions are intended for the treatment of internal and external elements of wooden structures. Contribute to the formation of a dense water-repellent film.
Oil based. After application, they form a dense coating that is resistant to the negative effects of external factors. The compositions are intended for the treatment of dry or pre-dried wood. Application to a damp surface may cause internal degradation of the material.
Combined type. Such compounds can be used for any type of wood, provide additional protection against fire.

Impregnation for wood

Moisture-resistant impregnations are designed to protect wood from the negative effects of precipitation. They are suitable for outdoor processing of wooden surfaces of residential buildings, gazebos, baths, fences and outbuildings.

Water-repellent impregnation for wood can be used both as an independent protective agent, and in combination with flame retardants and deep penetration antiseptic primers.

The composition is able to deeply impregnate the material, protecting the wood fibers from damage by mold and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, it helps to eliminate small cracks and improve air exchange in wood.

Oil based fluids

Oily liquids are used for external protection of wood from decay and destruction. They are able to protect the surface from the negative effects of precipitation due to the formation of a durable water-repellent film.

Oil protection of wood from rotting is used to treat a dry or pre-dried surface. These include the following types of oils: creosote and anthracene, obtained by mechanical processing of coke tar.

Such compounds are moderately safe, capable of releasing a small amount of toxic compounds, and therefore are not suitable for interior work.

Other protective compounds

Also, to protect wood from the negative effects of various factors, combined compositions, paints and varnishes are used.

Combined compositions - special means designed to protect wood from moisture, temperature changes and fire. In addition, they increase the resistance of the material to ultraviolet radiation and biological effects: rotting, mold, fungus and insects.
Paints. They are used for comprehensive protection against damage by microorganisms and mold, as well as to increase the aesthetics and attractiveness of wooden surfaces.
Lucky. They are used to prevent cracking and deformation of wood, provide a dull or glossy surface.

Folk remedies to protect wood from decay

You can prepare an effective and inexpensive wood preservative yourself from the available components. Here are the most popular recipes folk remedies:

Solution based on silicate adhesive. To obtain a solution, the adhesive is diluted with water in the required proportion. The finished mass is distributed on the treated surface in a thin layer with a wide brush.
Aqueous solution based on copper sulphate. To prepare a 5% solution, copper sulfate diluted in water is used, which can be used to carefully process wooden structures and elements.
A solution of slaked lime. To prepare the solution, 1 part lime (quicklime) and 3 parts water are used. The components are mixed in metal container until a homogeneous mass is obtained, which is applied to the surface with a brush or roller.
Flax seed oil. Provides reliable protection against decay, insects and moisture. Processing wood from decay linseed oil performed on a cleaned and dried surface. The oil is resistant to moisture and fire.
Mixture based on vinegar and soda. It allows you to eliminate foci of infection from damaged areas of wood. First, the surface is treated with soda, after which it is sprayed with vinegar. Another option involves preparing the essence by diluting soda with vinegar. The finished solution must cover the affected areas and hold for 5-10 minutes.
Hot resin. The heated resin mass is used to process outdoor wooden structures - fences, benches, chairs and logs that are in direct contact with the ground.
Composition based on potassium bichromate and sulfuric acid. To prepare the composition, 5% solutions of potassium and acid are mixed in a 1: 1 ratio. It is intended for processing the outer surfaces of walls and the topsoil.
Composition based on salt and boric acid. To prepare the composition, 55 g of boric acid and 900 g of rock salt are diluted with a liter of cold water. The wood is processed with the finished composition 2-3 times with an interval of 1.5 hours between visits.

All of the above methods are effective if clean wood is processed or has a slight degree of damage.

How to apply a protective coating to a tree

Technologically effective method protection of wood from decay and destruction - treatment with antiseptics, impregnations, paints and varnishes. Exist certain rules that must be observed when carrying out such procedures:

In case of direct contact with chemical solutions for wood treatment, it is recommended to use personal protective equipment - gloves, a mask and goggles.
The surface to be treated is cleaned of dirt, dust, old decorative coating with a metal scraper.
The surface is cleaned with a brush with hard bristles or sandpaper of medium grit.
The cleaned surface is washed with water with a small amount of neutral detergent and left to dry.
Before using a particular protective agent, it is necessary to study the instructions for use in detail.
Processing is carried out from the end parts, sections, connecting elements and damaged areas.
The finished composition is applied in several layers with an interval of 1.5-2 hours to dry each layer.

Additional processing with ready-made compositions to protect against pathogenic microorganisms, mold, humidity and other negative factors significantly increases the level of reliability and service life of wooden structures.

At a young age, I had a chance to prepare an essay about an old salt factory, in which salt was extracted from liquid salt brine during evaporation. The oldest enterprise in Europe today operates with great interruptions, but table salt from its production can be found on the shelves. It was noteworthy that in the museum of the enterprise there were the remains of pipes through which salted brine moved between the workshops of the plant. They were made of wood. And their condition was satisfactory despite the hundreds of years they had lain in the ground. Salt preserved hollow pipes made from straight trunks. In folk remedies and protecting wood from decay and bugs salt is also used today. Here are a few recipes that are still alive today, not because of effectiveness, but in spite of chemical remedies.

Controversial and proven methods of wood protection

Freshly harvested logs - round timber (in the bark, but without knots) are exposed on a vertical overpass tops down. A hermetically sealed polyethylene bag with a solution of copper sulfate is tied to the butt of the trunk, or a container is installed from which the solution is in contact with the end of the log on an impregnated wet rag. After some time, the brine, under the influence of gravity and due to the natural movement of juices in the trunk, will fill the space between the fibers of the log and the protrusion at the bottom end. After the solution has penetrated the entire length of the trunk, the blanks can be laid on a natural dryer under a canopy, eliminating the ingress of moisture and sun. Such seepage is used very rarely. An alternative is a conventional soaking bath. (Source - from the experience of Forumhouse.ru members of the forum)
Next folk method upon detailed study, it looks fantastic and impracticable, but for the sake of principle I will quote him: “One of the effective, environmentally friendly (but alas not recommended) means of processing logs, lower crowns or strapping are compositions based on natural wax with the addition of oil and propolis. Wooden houses are already 50-70 years old, and the logs, and the floors in general, are in excellent condition. Now many are advised to process the logs and strapping as well. (Source - from the experience of Forumhouse.ru members of the forum). What can be said about this method. It is more like fantasies and theoretical assumptions, because it is impossible to dissolve paraffin or wax in oil. Most likely, the author had in mind the separate use of such products as oil for impregnation and waxing. I already wrote about this method in an article about the processing of shelves in the steam room of the bath
A very common way to protect fences in the West - the Finnish composition for coloring is made from such available ingredients: any flour - rye or wheat - 800 g, iron sulfate - 1.5 kg, kitchen salt - 400 g, dry slaked lime - 1.6 kg , water - 10 liters.
All this mixture of available materials is prepared as jelly or paste for wallpapering. Gradually add to flour while stirring. cold water bringing the mixture to the consistency of sour cream. Half of the water (5l) is heated and topped up while hot. The finished paste is filtered and heated while stirring. When cooking, salt and vitriol are gradually added. Lastly, dry slaked lime or lime pigment is stirred. Apply Lushe solution warm in 2 coats after the first treatment has dried. According to the testimony of old masters, such wood processing is enough for up to 15 years.
Conifers are the most resistant to rotting, and therefore processing with birch tar or spruce resin is the oldest and most proven method. These resin compositions have a high degree of protection against fungi and bugs, but are very easily soiled, sticky, and have a strong odor. Wood cannot be processed on top of them - painted, sanded, etc. For open flames, this treatment is flammable. Therefore, the underground parts of wooden structures are treated with tar and resin resin and are not used for interior work.
Means of protection - the fulfilled automobile oil (working off). Today it is the most common method of protecting wooden structures in rural areas for non-residential structures. Working off has one most important advantage factor - free. It is better to apply it in a warm state several times, allowing it to be absorbed. Ends and crevices are impregnated especially carefully with working off. For greater reliability, mining was poured into the bottom of the pits, and after digging in the pillar, it was also poured around it. 90% of the mining composition is mineral oil - a good water-repellent antiseptic. In addition, there is a lot of soot in the working - a protective pigment from the destructive ultraviolet radiation of the sun. Some of the acid salts kill any fungus in the wood. Disadvantages - very easily soiled and has a mournful color.
Iron (copper) vitriol releases toxic substances when heated. Causes damage when ingested gastrointestinal tract, irritates the skin and mucous membranes.
Today, the method of processing with hot bitumen or tar continues to be used. Heated and stirred in diesel fuel - they are considered the best means for processing underground structures made of wood. In wooden construction, such coatings are used to protect the first crown or frame of log cabins. Today, bituminous impregnations and mastics are produced.
Oils and drying oils - it is difficult to call folk remedies. They form the basis of the production of paints and varnishes. Therefore, they have good properties: they do not crack and peel off. Lacquers last longer long time. Wood is best protected with hot drying oils or oils to increase the depth of seepage. The turnover of such wood protection products when hot it is much larger than when it is cold.
In a dry tree, water spreads most quickly from the end through the capillaries. Therefore, in one of the ways to protect the ends of parts, “riveting” is used with blows of rubber or wooden hammer end surface. Capillaries in such a place are destroyed and prevent easy evaporation of moisture. This keeps the ends stronger and prevents them from cracking. Additional protection can be added to the surface wooden parts by burning with a blowtorch. A thin layer of charred wood has bactericidal properties, in addition, capillaries are further destroyed.

Reasons for the destruction of wood

The structure of wood resembles a bundle of thin tubes - capillaries along the trunk. These capillary fibers consist of the basis of wood - fiber (cellulose). Fiber over time tends to break down into poly- and disaccharides, alcohols, aldehydes and organic acids under the influence of enzymes. Coniferous (and to a lesser extent deciduous) species, in addition to fiber, contain lignin, an organic substance similar to phenol. And phenolic resins are good bactericidal substances. In order for wood to be resistant to harmful bacteria, lignin is needed in its composition! The removal of lignin from wood is the cause of rotting and decay of wood.

The enzymes of saprophytic fungi (tinder fungus, honey agaric and oyster mushrooms), as well as a small number of putrefactive fungi and bacteria, destroy lignin especially well. Insects such as ants, woodworms and some worms "cohabit" with harmful fungi and bacteria. They grind wood fibers mechanically and contribute to the active fermentation of cellulose and the destruction of lignin. Such processes proceed especially well at high humidity.

You need to know the enemy in person in order to organize the protection of wood with folk remedies

The most terrible enemy of the tree is the white house mushroom. Sometimes it resembles ordinary mold, which makes it impossible to correctly establish the cause of wood damage. Under certain conditions, it can "gobble up" an oak floor in just one month! Therefore, in the old days, houses affected by such a fungus were burned. to protect other wooden structures.

Antiseptics and impregnations based on modern achievements of biochemists are not popular means of protection and treatment of wood- but the most effective and affordable building materials on the market.

Interested in environmentally friendly wood protection methods. For example, I know that whitewashed with lime is resistant to decay. Clay is also said to help. And what is the right way to use one or the other?
Wood is a combustible material. It is protected from fire by coating, painting, impregnating, plastering. It is good to combine fire-prevention and antiseptic treatment of wood. For these purposes, antiseptics are introduced into the impregnating compositions. The most optimal conditions for impregnating wood are wood moisture up to 25%, the temperature of the impregnation composition is 70-80 ° C. For better wood impregnation, tattoos are made on its surface. When choosing a method of protecting a particular wood product, the conditions in which this product will be located are taken into account (for example, wooden structures near stoves and pipes). In any case, with prolonged heating, the temperature of the wood should not exceed + 50 ° C. For normally dried wood, the ignition temperature from an open flame is 270-290 ° C, and when heated without an open flame - 350-480 ° C, but if the wood is heated for a long time time (up to 24 hours in a row), then spontaneous combustion can also occur from a temperature of not more than 170 ° C.
Coating. Coating of wood is carried out with the following compositions until a protective layer of at least 2-3 mm is obtained. Clay-salt-water coating is prepared from clay, salt and water. Ratio: clay - 74 parts, salt - 4 parts, water - everything else until a creamy mass is obtained. Usually applied in two coats. Second: superphosphate coating, which is obtained from superphosphate and water in a ratio of 70 parts to 30. It is also applied, as a rule, in two layers, which give a 3 mm layer.
ATTENTION! When using this type of coating, it should be remembered that the prepared portion can be used within 6 hours, then it hardens. And since the first layer will also dry for at least 6 hours, the previously prepared coating will no longer be suitable. Therefore, for the second layer of coating, the material should be prepared no more than an hour before the first layer dries completely. Sulfite-clay coating. Its components are sulfite-alcohol stillage, clay and, of course, water in the ratio of 25:50:25.

Last edit by moderator: 11/21/17
Registration: 03.12.10 Messages: 2.007 Acknowledgments: 1.423

In any case, with prolonged heating, the temperature of the wood should not exceed + 50 ° C. For normally dried wood, the ignition temperature from an open flame is 270-290 ° C, and when heated without an open flame - 350-480 ° C, but if the wood is heated for a long time time (up to 24 hours in a row), then spontaneous combustion can also occur from a temperature of not more than 170 ° C.

And why not more than +50 gr. heat if it lights up at a higher temperature?
Registration: 15.01.10 Messages: 1.555 Acknowledgments: 1.905
Chance

I build UWhP, frame houses

Chance Build UShP, frame houses

I read somewhere that the addition of ordinary soda (or soda ash) to an antiseptic (for example, a solution of lime, clay, etc.) endows the impregnation with fire protection properties. When heated, carbon dioxide is released.
Moreover, a solution of boric acid is used for antiseptic ...
Registration: 12/16/07 Messages: 1.905 Acknowledgments: 417
Registration: 03/27/10 Messages: 3.366 Acknowledgments: 995 Bair Mini-developer blocked

Of course very interesting topic. The secrets of the old masters must never be forgotten. But I wonder what percentage of homeowners will agree to coat the inside of their new newly built house with clay? How many people will refuse to impregnate wood with Finnish protective compounds or, at worst, Senezh, and prefer a saline solution?
It would be very interesting in this topic a survey on whether people agree to replace modern facilities wood protection for folk?

I think, why smear the interior tree? Coat those at risk (underground, ceilings). Well, then you can smear it under the facade cladding (with insulation).
Registration: 12/16/07 Messages: 1.905 Acknowledgments: 417

I'm not talking about facade. Just wondering how many people agree to replace modern funds with folk ones.
vic_ag64 said:

The maximum term of the Senezh is 12 years. This is subject to museum storage. In real life, I would give him three years at the most.

I am in no way defending Senezh. And not against folk remedies. It's just very interesting where you got the figures about the 12-year maximum validity of the Senezh. The manufacturer claims 30-35 years in particularly difficult conditions. So the manufacturer is lying?
Registered: 23.12.09 Messages: 11.325 Thanks: 7.214 leskos Blocked Guest
Registered: 23.12.09 Messages: 11.325 Thanks: 7.214 leskos Blocked Guest

I'm not talking about facade. Just wondering how many people agree to replace modern funds with folk ones.

Yes, and they can agree with the facade only if the house is sheathed.
Registration: 09.12.06 Messages: 1.897 Acknowledgments: 2.510

vic_ag64 said:

Didn't fit in one post. Well, now what can not be found on the Internet and in books. This is the electrical stabilization of wood. All methods of wood preservative with salt are quite old, time-tested. The only thing that did not exist before was electricity. What can be obtained through electrostabilization. Salt solution under the influence of electric current will evenly decompose into chlorine and sodium. Sodium automatically forms alkali with water, chlorine - you understand. Chemical decomposition of water also occurs. Thus, with the correct selection of the density of the electric current, we can get evenly impregnated in the mass, antiseptic and dried lumber.

And in more detail about the technology of such antiseptics, it is very interesting ...
Registration: 06/07/08 Messages: 7.226 Acknowledgments: 4.526
One of the effective, environmentally friendly (but alas not recommended) means of processing logs, lower rims or strapping are compositions based on natural wax with the addition of oil and propolis. The result of such processing has repeatedly observed himself. The houses are 50-70 years old, but the logs and underground spaces in general are in excellent condition. Now my friend strongly advises me to treat the lugs and harness as well.
Registration: 06/20/09 Messages: 87 Acknowledgments: 71

By the way, there are compounds based on rosin, turpentine and wax or other plasticizers ...
Knee pain in the elderly treatment with folk remedies