Drainage pit: what and how to build. Drain pit for a bath: varieties and do-it-yourself construction technology How to make a drain near the house

The depth of the pit itself is two meters. Ground water very quickly damages or washes out the structure of the pit, rendering the drain unusable.

What can you build

For sealed pits use:

• Old plastic or metal containers. This is one of the budget building options.
• Concrete rings of large diameter (the well is sealed!) Or concrete mortar. A timber formwork is preliminarily built, into which the solution is poured. This type of building is completely sealed. Additionally, the walls and bottom can be treated with a sealant solution.
• Industrial wells made of polymers are a rather expensive solution to the problem of sewer drain. But its installation does not require additional labor costs.

Suitable for filter pits:

• Brick. With the help of such a building material, it is easy to achieve good water permeability of the walls. Drainage holes are usually made at the bottom of the pit, as an addition to the backfill filter.
• Special concrete rings that already have drainage holes.
• Car tires are perhaps the most budgetary building material that can ensure high-quality absorption of liquid into the ground.
• Old metal or plastic containers are a universal way to build both a hermetic and a filtering well. In the latter case, holes are cut in the bottom or holes are drilled.

Work order

The construction of the drain includes the following works:

• Trench and pit are being prepared. The size of the pit should be slightly larger than the main structure of the pit.
• Sand and gravel are laid out at the bottom, the pillow is compacted.
• A concrete slab is laid on top of the pillow or a screed is made. For filter pits, this is not necessary.
• Depending on the building material, the following is performed: brickwork, installation of rings or ready-made containers.
• With the help of rubber couplings, a sewer drain is connected.
• A ceiling is installed on top (a concrete slab with a hole for a hatch or a shield made of boards).
• A hatch with a cover is installed and a ventilation pipe is equipped.
• From above, the structure is covered with soil, and clay, sand or fine gravel can be used for side backfilling.

Tools and building materials

To carry out the work you will need:

• bayonet and shovel;
• manual roller for compacting the pillow:
• hacksaw for cutting pipes;
• perforator for punching technical holes in concrete (if a reinforced concrete structure is being built);
• sealant;
• cement (used when laying concrete rings);
• sand and gravel for the bottom cushion;
• plastic or metal container(if you plan to use this option);
• bricks for the construction of a brick well.

Construction work should be preceded by a plan and calculation of the quantity building materials. According to the exact data, the list of building materials and required tools is being corrected. see our material.

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Are you planning to build a wastewater drainage system in a suburban area by equipping a pit? Agree that a cottage or a house permanent residence with all the amenities will become much more comfortable. But you don’t know how a brick drain pit is built and what Consumables would be required for this?

We will help you cope with the task - the article discusses the popular types of brick cesspools. As well as step by step process the construction of such a sewer, starting with the choice of a place for a pit and the calculation of its dimensions.

The material is provided with visual photographs. Also selected videos from useful tips for self-construction of a brick tank for wastewater. The advantages and features of its operation and periodic maintenance are considered.

A drain or cesspool is one of the oldest options for sewerage points for receiving and primary processing of wastewater on earth. It can be built even without any experience in construction work.

Moreover, often such a device is created on the site at the very beginning of construction work in order to provide builders with a minimum set of amenities.

You can do the construction of a drain pit on your own or invite a team of workers - there is a large amount of excavation

Technically, a drain pit is simple septic tank or storage of human waste. To this container, located underground, they bring sewer pipe leading from home.

Pipes of a separate toilet, bathhouse and other premises available on the site are also brought to it.

One common cesspool on the site is not the only option for organizing such a system. If desired, you can make a separate small container for each room.

Such a solution may be convenient, for example, if the bathhouse is located at a considerable distance from other buildings.

Waste is gradually accumulated and partially disposed of depending on the type of facility. As the pit fills with drains, it must be cleaned to prevent overflow of the structure.

Modern means allow waste disposal with a sufficiently high degree of efficiency. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the best methods on.

Varieties of cesspool structures

From a brick, you can build a cesspool of any type:

• sealed;
• with permeable walls;
• without bottom;
• divided into several sections.

Each building has certain characteristics. For instance, sealed pit used in areas with high groundwater levels. This design prevents the possibility of environmental pollution by sewage.

Permeable drain pits, intended for the processing and disposal of gray effluents, are arranged with a meter sand and gravel filter near the bottom.

With insufficient bandwidth the underlying rocks are equipped with small holes in the walls through which the liquid part of the waste is disposed of.

If you divide the capacity of the drain pit with brick partitions and insert overflow tubes into them, you get an almost home-made septic tank

In the so-called pits without a bottom the lower part is not concreted. The walls of such structures are erected on a concrete base with a gap in which a sand and gravel filter is laid directly on the ground.

Liquid effluents will slowly seep through this natural filter and then enter the underlying soil layers, where they undergo their final treatment. The use of bricks allows you to create both an airtight drain pit and its permeable version. Most often, such structures are made with a rectangular base, this is the simplest scheme.

Divided into several sections. A large pit can be divided by partitions into two or three sections, which are connected by overflows.

Such a device, similar to a sewer septic tank, allows you to repeatedly separate the bulk of solid and liquid waste and increase the degree of their processing with the help of bacteria.

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After the masonry work is completed, the walls need to be plastered.

The sewer pipe should enter the sewer device at a slight angle to ensure the optimal speed of movement of wastewater and waste

Stage #5 - waterproofing and topcoating

A layer of waterproofing material is placed on the plaster, for example, bituminous mastic. These measures will help extend the life of the sewer device.

When applying waterproofing materials, follow the instructions exactly. For example, a dry base is required for mastic.

Now you can install the top cover. To do this, it is best to purchase a ready-made concrete slab with a hole and a cover -.

Alternatively, you can consider a concrete structure of your own manufacture or a timber floor. The latter option does not differ in strength, every few years such an overlap will have to be replaced.

If a decision is made to make a concrete floor on your own, you should start doing it simultaneously with the base and using a similar technology. Filling is carried out in a wooden formwork.

The parameters of the upper floor must exceed the dimensions of the hole that it will cover by at least 30 cm.

The hole for servicing the drain pit must be large enough so that a person can climb into it to inspect the structure.

First, a layer of solution of several centimeters is poured, then reinforcement is installed and the main layer is poured. This element must dry for four weeks. In the upper ceiling, it is necessary to make another hole - a ventilation hole.

The sewer device needs proper ventilation, because over time, sewage begins to release methane, which is a dangerous gas.

For the organization of natural ventilation use plastic pipe about 100 mm in diameter. The pipe is covered from above protective device, its lower part also does not hurt to equip with a grate.

After installing the ceiling, a layer of waterproofing should be applied over the structure, roofing material and even a thick plastic film will do.

A topsoil layer is usually laid on top to ennoble the site and protect the cesspool from freezing in winter.

Features of the device operation

Basic care cesspool comes down to timely emptying and cleaning it. Designed for cesspools can become a significant help in recycling and disposal of waste.

These drugs are usually supplied detailed instruction and very easy to use. They must either be simply poured / poured into the sewer, or pre-mixed with some water.

Pumping out waste from the drain pit is best done using special equipment. Drains should be removed when their amount takes up two-thirds of the capacity

Such microorganisms are able to process effluents, decomposing them into safe components. At the same time, the smell characteristic of sewer devices also disappears.

But it should be remembered that contact with some species household chemicals is harmful to bacteria, so you will have to check the composition of the washing and cleaning products that are available in the house.

After the cesspool has been cleaned, it does not hurt to inspect it and check the integrity brick walls. If necessary, carry out minor repairs to the structure: replace damaged bricks with whole ones, restore damaged waterproofing, etc.

In addition to bricks, concrete rings, tires, a barrel, and so on can serve as a material for making a cesspool.

A brick cesspool is a reliable and convenient structure. Making such a device is not easy, but all efforts will pay off, because if the technology is followed, such a device can last for many years.

Do you use a self-made brick pit as a waste collector? Or are you just planning to build a cesspool? Do you have any questions after reading this article? Ask them in the comments to our article - we will try to clarify difficult points.

Citizens, using plumbing, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners country houses The problem of waste disposal often has to be solved independently. Consider how to properly make a drain hole. After all, it is this popular version of local sewage that is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When landscaping the house and the site, the first thing they do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Since it is quite difficult to imagine a comfortable life if you need to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have different design. Here are the most common options:

• sealed pit.
• filter hole.
• Double pit.

sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water getting into the ground and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewage on the site does not affect the ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Sanitary rules allow the construction of filter-type drain pits only if the volume of wastewater per day is less than a cubic meter. If there is little wastewater, they have time to be recycled through natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bath, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.

In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drain pits are constructed. In the first (filter type) drains are transported from the shower room, from the washbasin, washing machines s, that is, relatively clean. In the second (sealed type), drains from toilets and the kitchen should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

One more practical solution tasks of how to build a drain pit - the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider the principle of operation of such a treatment plant:

• The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
• The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
• Drains (undivided) come from the house to the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply settled. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively pure water overflows into the second chamber.
• From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
• Waste that accumulates in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organic matter, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before you make a drain pit, you should draw up a construction plan. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drain pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential facility. It is clear that a larger pit is needed for a house than for a summer residence.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three people permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should be taken into account:

• Availability of sewer services.
• The volume that sewage equipment can pump out at a time.

Where is the drain hole located?

• Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
• If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then a pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
• The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
• Provision should be made for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
• You can not have a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring area. The minimum distance to housing is five meters.

In a word, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

• Concrete solution. A formwork is being built into which the mortar is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to reinforce with a steel mesh.
• Plastic containers. This is the least labor intensive option. A pit is being prepared, in which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floating during spring floods, it is recommended to concret the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which the plastic tank is tied with polymer belts.

• concrete rings.
• Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to carry out additional measures to seal the seams. To do this, the brickwork (or the joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and from the outside they are covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of greasy clay. And what is the best way to overlay the drain pit if a filtering version of the treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Great for:

• Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
• Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they are perforated. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a perforator.
• old car tires. From this improvised material, you can easily assemble a drainage well. Tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
• old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of the pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drain pit

Let's consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

• Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
• The pit should have a greater depth than the planned depth of the drain pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
• The drainage cushion is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is qualitatively compacted.
• If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. Either a ready-made reinforced concrete slab should be placed on top of the drainage pillow, or a concrete screed should be made.
• If a filter pit is being built, then the crushed stone layer should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt longer.
• Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings or plastic containers are installed, depending on the chosen construction material.
• If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls are strengthened, they are waterproofed.
• At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection of the pipe with the tank must be tight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of soil movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

• At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a finished reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used as a floor. If desired, such a slab can be cast independently, having previously constructed the formwork.
• Alternatively, thick boards can be used to build the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
• A hatch must be made in the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pump out its contents.
• It is advisable to install on the cover and the ventilation pipe. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which is explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the possibility of ventilation.
• From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be filled with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if it is planned to arrange a local sewerage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but, at the same time, convenient and practical options. It does not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.

Unfortunately, not everywhere there is a centralized sewage system and people are forced to equip street toilets on their plots.

In the warm season it is not difficult to go outside, but in the cold season you don’t want to go out into the cold once again.

And so many people are thinking about equipment in the area of ​​​​the drain pit. Consider the topic of a drain pit in a private house in this article.

To ensure the arrangement of the drain pit, it is better to hire professional workers, but you can equip it yourself.

Volume calculation

Drainage pit equipment is considered cheap and in a simple way in order to secure private homes.

To make a calculation of the required volume of the drain pit, it is necessary to multiply the number of people who will live in the house by 1.2 m3. Let's give an example: if there are five people in your family, then the volume of the drain pit will be at least two and a half meters cubed.

Types and purpose

Drainage pits are of different types:

1. Fecal. The pit, the name of which speaks for itself, that is, this pit is designed to drain water from the toilet or toilet, which is located on the site.
2. Waste. It is intended for, that is, drains from baths, showers, washbasins.
3. Combined. The pit is designed to drain both fecal matter and household water.

In rural areas, it is better to equip two pits: fecal and waste.

How to equip a drain pit in a private house

We determine the dimensions

Depth

First, find out the level of groundwater in your area. You can check the level yourself, and you can check it with the help of a well, if it is located nearby.

If groundwater is at a depth of 6-8 meters, then a pit for draining waste must be made at a level of 2-2.5 meters.

Length Width

In the event that groundwater is close to the surface, a plastic container should not be placed underground. In this case, a sealed concrete well is made and a plastic container is placed in it, but this method will cost more.

In order for the plastic pit to work well for a long time, the pit under it must be dug so that there is a distance of 30 cm from the walls to the container.

The container is installed strictly horizontally. It is important that the tank has a vent pipe, otherwise there is a danger of the tank exploding, as the decomposition of organic waste releases methane gas.

drain hole has its positive and negative qualities, but its presence brings country life and life in a private house to another level. For this reason, people are increasingly making cesspools of various designs on their plots.

We wish you good luck in your endeavors!

To collect household waste in private homes or on garden plots a drainage pit is required. Its construction is simple, so you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists. To create a drain pit with your own hands, you will need some knowledge, we talked about them in this article.

Sanitary restrictions

The storage pit for domestic wastewater is located only on the territory of a private household; you have no right to place it outside of it; distance from the fence - from 1 m;

In order to avoid the ingress of effluents into drinking water in case of leakage of the pit, it is necessary to place it at a distance (at a distance of 10 m) from the water supply branch; at least 20 m recede from the well with drinking water (on loam up to 30 m, sandstone - 50 m);

The close location of such a pit, when it is drowned or blurred, can lead to the destruction of the foundation, so the distance from residential buildings (including neighboring ones) is 10-12 m;

The depth of the pit depends on the occurrence of groundwater, the maximum depth is 3 m.

When choosing a place for a treatment plant, one should also take into account the possibility of access to it by special equipment for pumping.

In order to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the house, you should not place it near the windows - you should retreat at least 5 m.

Distance to cesspool

Violation of sanitary and technical standards is fraught not only with fines. If the spill of sewage causes damage to the natural environment or the health of others, a criminal case may be opened against you (Article 250 of the Criminal Code).

Important! The device of cesspool tanks without a bottom is allowed only if the volume of domestic wastewater per day does not exceed one cubic meter. In all other cases, the waste collection container must be airtight.

Types of drain pits

Concrete (including concrete rings);

Plastic;

Rubber tyres.

Drainage pit made of bricks

Due to their low tightness, wood and rubber tires are used only for the construction of small drainage structures. Most often, cesspools are built of concrete or brick.

Calculation of the volume of the drive

Thus, subject to pumping out the drain pit once a month, a family of 3 will need at least:

0.03 x 3 x 60 (number of days in 1 month) = 4.5 m3

Advice. In case of unforeseen situations (for example, snow drifts and the impossibility of timely pumping), it is better to make the size of the drive with a margin. Since the volume of one GAZ sewage truck is on average 3.8-4 cubic meters. m, in order not to overpay for running the car, it is more reasonable to make the pits a multiple of this value.

Drainage pit made of concrete. Construction stages

2. So that the walls do not crumble, they are leveled.

3. Pipes are brought to the pit. In order for wastewater to flow into the pit by gravity, they must be located at a certain slope. For pipes d160 mm, it is 10 mm per meter of passage; the slope of 100 mm pipes is 20 mm.

4. It is desirable that the drain pipes are located below the freezing level. Otherwise, they will have to be carefully insulated.

Pipe supply

6. It is better to make a hydraulic lock between the walls of the pit and the ground. To do this, wet clay is poured between the formwork and the soil and carefully compacted. This must be done as the formwork is erected.

clay castle

7. Walls concrete pit it is desirable to waterproof with a conventional polyethylene film.

8. Standard formwork is being prepared for the side parts of the structure. Since the concrete walls have a significant mass, the formwork is fixed as firmly as possible with the help of self-tapping screws.

9. The structure must be reinforced. All metal rods are connected with wire.

Cesspool reinforcement

10. The thickness of the walls of the concrete cesspool is 25 cm.

11. In order to avoid the appearance of cold joints (places of “weakness” in concrete), the walls are poured in only one step.

12. The solution is mixed in a ratio of 1:2:3 (cement, sand, gravel). It should be quite liquid. If you throw a small pebble into it, with a sufficient amount of liquid, it should be completely immersed in the solution.

13. During the pouring process, the solution should be periodically compacted with a shovel or vibrocompactor (bayonet). Otherwise, voids will form in it, which will negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Compacting concrete makes it stronger and prevents voids

14. In hot weather, to avoid cracking, drying concrete surface it is better to cover with bags.

15. After the concrete has completely hardened (this happens on average within a week), the pit is carefully waterproofed with bitumen. To do this, the walls are first cleared of irregularities. The bitumen is crushed into pieces, heated to a boil, then removed from the fire and a small amount of kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel is gradually added to it in a thin stream (a liter is required for 10 liters of bitumen). This is done so that the bitumen is more liquid. If it is not diluted, it will solidify almost immediately after removing it from the fire.

Heating bitumen on a fire

16. You should not overheat the bitumen or heat the mixture together with gasoline, kerosene or diesel fuel, otherwise it will flare up. If the heated bitumen still ignites, to extinguish the flame, you should immediately cover the container with plywood or a suitable lid.

17. For waterproofing, you can also purchase a ready-made solution of roofing bituminous mastic, but it will cost more.

18. The resulting mixture is applied to the walls with a brush. After the first layer dries, another one is applied.

19. As a cover, you can use a reinforced concrete slab with a hatch for pumping and cleaning.

Drain hole hatch

Advice. As a result of decay of waste, methane is formed in the drain pit - a rather explosive gas. He is taken away with ventilation pipe located in the cover of the pit. The diameter of such a pipe is 100 mm with a height of 600 mm.

Ventilation pipe device

Video: Drain pit: construction stages