Biological fungicides for plants. Types of fungicides, an overview of the most effective drugs and their description Fungicide for seeds

Fungicides for plants, what are they, what is it? The last decades were marked by an unprecedented growth of viral, bacterial, fungal diseases of all plants. With fungal diseases (late blight, gray rot, other types of rot, powdery mildew, peronosporosis, fusarium, klusterosporosis, root rot, various leaf spots, etc.), with proper use, fungicides successfully cope - contact, systemic. Bacterial, viral diseases are practically untreatable, no matter what actions gardeners take. All fungicides are divided into preparations of contact and systemic action.

contact fungicides

Contact preparations - such as cineb, polycarbocin, copper oxychloride, sulfur, mancozeb, others - are not able to treat already diseased plants, but they reliably protect them from infection. Plants do not develop resistance to them - this is their main advantage. But the deadline protective action they do not exceed 10-12 days before the first heavy rain, after which the treatment is repeated.

The multiplicity of treatments for contact fungicides is the largest: from 3 to 6 treatments per season. These drugs almost do not penetrate into the plant, they protect only those places where they are located directly. Therefore, when working with contact fungicides, try to carefully spray not only the upper surface of the leaves, but also the underside of them. Many types of fungi begin to germinate from the underside of the leaves.

Systemic fungicides

Systematicity in plant protection refers to the ability of the active substance to be redistributed from the place of application to other parts of the plant, not only on the surface, but also inside. These drugs protect plants from fungi not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Systemic fungicides are able to have a curative effect, but in the early stages of infection.

Already after 2-6 hours from the moment of treatment, any precipitation (or irrigation) is not able to reduce the effectiveness of such drugs. And the period of protective action remains with them for 2-3 weeks.

However, pathogenic fungi develop resistance to systemic fungicides very quickly. To slow down this process, international crop protection experts recommend using them no more than twice per season on the same crop. And if additional treatments are required, then you need to use drugs or contact action, or a systemic fungicide, but of a completely different chemical group.

Chemical groups of systemic plant protection products (analogues are given in brackets)

Azoles (triazoles) - Vectra (Granite), Skor (Bogard, Dividend), Topaz, Tilt (Bumper), Folicur, Alto, Bytan, Bayleton, Sportak, Impact.
Strobirulins - But, Strobi, Amistar.
Benzimidazoles - Fundazol (Benomyl), Derozal (Colfugo-Super), Tekto (Titusim),
Phenylamides - Apron.
Anilidopyrimidines - Chorus.
Pyrimidinylcarbinols - Rubigan.
Dithianols - Delan.
Phosphonates - Alyett (Alufit).
Phthalamides - Merpan, Folpan.

Like insects, fungal resistance on plants is developed immediately to all fungicides of the same chemical group.

The best options for plant protection are:

alternation of contact and systemic fungicides;
alternation of 2-3 systemic drugs, but from different chemical groups.

For many years, mixed fungicides have been produced, consisting of 2-3 active ingredients, and they:

both contact and systemic action (Kurzat R. Odram, Acrobat MC, Ridomil Gold MC, Sandofan M8, Tattu, Oxyhom, Pilon, Artemi S, Poliram DF, Arceride, Avixil, others). They are used as contact preparations up to 4 times per season with the concentration of the working solution usually not lower than 0.3-0.4% (30-40 g per 10 l of water). Please note that a lower concentration of solutions leads to poor results. So this is just the case when “you can’t spoil porridge with oil” ... Prepare solutions of fungicides of this group, adhering to the recommendations of the instructions, but it’s better to even make them more concentrated than it is written.
only systemic action, may belong to the same chemical group or to completely different ones. This is done only in order to expand the spectrum of action on harmful fungi. Such fungicides include Mikal, Archer, Ryder, Alto-Super, Falcon, Thanos, and others. They are used no more than twice per season.

Basic rules for using drugs

Spray only in cloudy calm weather, as well as early in the morning - at dawn or in the evening - at sunset. Precipitation falling within 4-6 hours after treatment reduces the effectiveness of many fungicides.
Be sure to use rubber gloves, because. all plant protection products penetrate the skin quite well and are then absorbed into the blood. It is enough to put on a light respirator or bandage on the face.
Try to spray the plants themselves with fungicides, not the soil. A high-quality pneumatic sprayer will help save money, time, and keep you healthy. Therefore, do not save on the purchase of a sprayer.
It is forbidden to treat crops with systemic fungicides that use green stems or leaves as food, as well as radish, radish, daikon, strawberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, cherries. The last four can only be processed before flowering. Since all these cultures absorb toxic compounds very well, and do not have time to get rid of them until they are eaten, even if the waiting periods are observed.
The working solution is prepared immediately before use, can be stored for no more than a day.
Do not allow any fungicides to enter water bodies, as this leads to the death of all living things in them. Poisons are destroyed faster in the surface layer of the earth, which is not intended for use for vegetable gardens, hayfields, pastures, and playgrounds. The sun, soil microorganisms are the main destroyers, neutralizers of any toxic compounds.
Store fungicides in a dry, dark, preferably frost-free area away from food. All packages must be sealed, as air moisture changes physical properties drugs. The shelf life of biological products is 1-2.5 years, chemical products - 10 years or more, regardless of the expiration date indicated on the container label.

Growing horticultural, garden or ornamental plants is a favorite pastime of many gardeners and summer residents. However, you need to understand that growing a healthy culture without proper care impossible. It is important to provide each flower with reliable protection against all kinds of diseases and dangerous pests in advance.

Biological action of fungicides

When caring for a garden, summer residents often have to use highly effective drugs- fungicides for plants, which are potent chemicals capable of providing effective control of pathogenic microorganisms that cause the development of fungal diseases, such as:

powdery mildew;
gray rot;
root rot and others.

Fungicides are divided into two groups according to the method of exposure:

contact;
systemic.

Every gardener should know what fungicides are, how to use drugs in home gardening.

The use of fungicides for plants eliminates the possibility of penetration of active substances inside. They manage to cover only the outer part of the culture, where the generative and vegetative organs of the fungus are located, causing further progression of the infection.

All means are capable of operating within different period, which depends on the duration of stay of chemical compounds on the culture surface. A special result is noticed with regular treatment every 3-5 days with an interval of 10-12 days.

The key feature of contact fungicides is local action to green spaces. They are not used to treat signs of damage, but to destroy pathogenic fungal formations that are on the surface or in plant tissues. It is important to understand that fungicides are not able to penetrate other parts of the plant, so treatment with them is completely safe.

Action systemic drugs built on a different principle: when processed, they affect all internal systems, moving through tissues and making a number of changes in the physiological and biochemical processes that occur inside plants.

Subsequently, they decompose in the internal organs of flowers, horticultural or agricultural crops, which causes the rapid formation of metabolites. In this state, the plant develops strong immunity, which contributes to the rapid cleansing of the harmful fungus.

Some gardeners are of the opinion that it is unsafe to use systemic fungicides, since the decomposition products formed after processing can harm the plant. To prevent possible complications, need to involve chemicals the first type - contact. However, it is important to have time to carry out all processing procedures a month before harvesting.

Types and principle of operation

When searching for fungicidal preparations in specialized stores you can find turnkey solutions in the form of a powder, suspension or emulsion with good solubility in water. Depending on the composition, there are several fungicidal preparations:

Inorganic. Among them are drugs of 1-4 hazard classes for humans and warm-blooded creatures.
Organic. The composition of such products contains active microorganisms that can have a depressing effect on pathogenic fungi.

For use on summer cottages it is recommended to use biological fungicides, as they are distinguished by excellent efficiency and at the same time are practically harmless, both for horticultural crops and for the human body. However, when carrying out processing activities, all safety rules must be observed.

Chemical fungicides

Many modern summer residents and gardeners are looking for the most effective drugs to combat fungal diseases. Looking for good decisions they focus on innovative chemicals that guarantee high performance at low doses.

However, it is highly discouraged to get involved in such means, and the effectiveness declared in advertising is not always a reality. Indeed on the list good fungicides chemical type, which managed to prove their effectiveness after lengthy experiments and studies, it is important to highlight:

Bordeaux liquid;
copper sulfate;
abiga-peak, sun;
cineb;
potassium permanganate;
soda ash;

Such tools have been tested by experts and have earned the right to be called one of the most effective of their kind. However, when using chemicals on the site, you must be extremely careful and carefully study the instructions for use. Otherwise, you can harm yourself and your crops.

Biologicals

The range of fungicides with highly effective action is very extensive. In addition, in recent years, new solutions have been entering the market that can protect plants from all kinds of diseases. Among them contact biological fungicides. They are made according to a completely different principle than the previous chemical ones. These drugs are based on active bacteria that localize pathogens of fungal diseases and have a detrimental effect on them.

Biofungicides allow you to effectively deal with the problem without damaging green spaces, animals, fish, bees, and people. If you want to purchase good biological products, pay attention to the following list:

Gamair P;
Trichodermin;
Alirin-B;
Albite;
Phytosporin;
Agate;
Planzier and others.

It is important to understand that it is necessary to start treating plants with contact chemicals long before flowering, as well as after harvesting. As for biological solutions, they effectively work throughout the growing season. In addition, among the biofungicides there are also such preparations that can be used at the stage of fruit ripening. In any case, a novice gardener must understand that all fungicides are only preventive tools. If the active substances reach the causative agents of the problem, this causes their death. However, if the disease progresses, and the culture is severely affected, then it will not be possible to solve the trouble with such drugs.

How to work with contact fungicides

As mentioned above, the use of fungicides is a rather demanding and painstaking process. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider safety issues by preparing specialized clothing, rubber gloves, goggles and a hat. After processing, clothes should be washed thoroughly, and hands and face should be washed with soap and water.

Before you start processing garden, horticultural or agricultural crops, prepare a ready-made solution, following the correct dosage and all the recommendations that are included in the instructions. Also, do not ignore the advice of experienced professionals, guided by their personal experience and skills.

Particular effectiveness of the use of fungicides is noticed when treated in the early morning or evening, in dry, calm weather. If spraying was carried out before or after rain, a good result should not be expected. The active substances are simply washed off by rain and will not take effect. As a result, the defeat will progress.

When spraying, you need to select the operating mode for fine spraying. The resulting cloud of solution should extend to the lower and upper parts of the plant.

It is important to understand that it is impossible to spray the green parts of crops that will be eaten. To increase safety, it is necessary to have time to process green spaces before flowering and fruit set.

Use the container where the solution was for re-work Absolutely forbidden. Instead, it must be disposed of in designated areas for pesticides. Fungicide storage areas should be restricted from general access, while the drugs should be kept in sealed packages.

List of drugs

Most available fungicides have high toxicity. Therefore, before you purchase them and use them on your site, you need to find good reasons. It is also necessary to carefully read the instructions for use and make sure that you can carry out the processing activities yourself. Let's make a list of the most popular and effective fungicides for plants.

Oksikhom

This preparation from the contact-systemic group contains copper oxychloride and oxadixyl. Most often it is used for preventive purposes and suppression of various diseases of garden and indoor crops. Fights great late blight, macrosporiosis, black bacterial spot and other dangers. The absence of toxicity increases the safety of using the product.

To start processing, you must first prepare a highly effective solution. To begin with, 1/3 of the water should be poured into the tank of the device, and then start the mixing mechanism and pour in a little of the drug. In the future, it remains to pour the rest and mix the solution well. The finished mixture is used for abundant spraying of a culture that has succumbed to the fungus. In the process, it is important to use exclusively pure water.

As far as dosage is concerned, optimal performance keep at around 1 packet of Oxychoma per two liters of liquid. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out up to three procedures with an interval of 10-14 days. Only freshly prepared solution is used for processing.

Among significant benefits facilities:

highly effective systemic contact action;
the ability to maintain the effect for a long time;
minimal toxicity, if the treatment is carried out at the correct dosage;
economical consumption for preventive purposes.

Trichodermin

This biological fungicide is high efficiency in the fight against pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases. The composition of the biofungicide contains spores of the soil fungus Trichoderma lignorum and crushed grain substrate.

The drug is able to eliminate more than 60 varieties of pathogenic organisms that cause all kinds of diseases, including:

root rot;
seminal infections;
fusarium and other troubles.

The action of active substances causes improvement of soil fertility indicators, rapid saturation of the root system with additional nutrients, as well as an increase in the germination of planting material.

To prepare a suspension where the seeds will be soaked, it is enough to take 10 grams of the drug and dilute it in one liter of water. If the product is used by watering plants, then the optimal dosage will be the same as in the previous case. When watering, it is important to deliver the suspension directly under the root, using medium portions of water.

A ready-made spray solution is created as follows: 10 grams of the product is supplied per 5 liters of water.

Trichodermin renders excellent preventive action transplant work . In this case, the consumption rate is determined as follows: for a 25-centimeter (in diameter) pot, such an amount of the drug is used that is placed on the tip of a knife.

By the way, not only adult plants, but also young cuttings can be treated with this tool by placing it in water, where they are kept before planting. In this case, the consumption is 5 grams per 5 liters.

In order to effectively fight all kinds of diseases, it is necessary to prepare such a suspension: dilute 5 grams of the substance with 5 liters of water. Then the damaged culture must be removed from the pot and cleaned of the soil composition.

The affected root elements will have to be removed, and the main rhizome should be thoroughly washed with a suspension. After that, it is better to transplant the plant into another pot, where a fresh substrate was previously placed.

The problem of protecting garden, ornamental and agricultural crops is of interest to many gardeners and summer residents. To effectively deal with all sorts of diseases, highly effective chemicals are often used, including fungicides. With their help, you can quickly and efficiently get rid of the problem and prevent its further progression.

However, in order for the drug to be very effective, but at the same time safe, when choosing a suitable solution, preference should be given to those agents that have the least toxicity. When choosing the best drug, consider the recommendations of professionals, and also read all the instructions and recommendations that come with it. Such simple steps will prevent unwanted consequences from improper processing.

Most gardeners throughout their practice have repeatedly encountered fungicides, and in this article we will reveal the focus of these funds, as well as their various classifications in more detail. The term fungicide consists of two Latin words, one of which is translated as a mushroom, and the second is a verb in the present tense "I kill." From this it is easy to conclude that horticultural fungicides are used to combat (or prevent) all kinds of fungal diseases. There are a great many different fungicides designed for soil, seeds, plants themselves, and so on. Today we will talk about how to choose and apply fungicides for plants correctly.

At the moment, there are a large number of classifications of fungicides based on the active substance, chemical properties and the nature of their action. Of course, within the framework of one article, we will not be able to outline the entire range of drugs and their features, so we will focus on the main and most significant points.

Active substance

Depending on the dominant active substance, modern fungicides are divided into several main groups.

Copper preparations

Fungicides containing copper in their composition include such famous and commonly available products as Bordeaux mixture and copper sulfate. This group also includes Kurzat, Oxyhom and Ordan. Such products have a universal status and can be used both for soil cultivation and for processing plants, whether it is a greenhouse, pot or open ground. Most copper preparations are fungicides of contact action.

Sulfur preparations

Sulfur-containing fungicides have proven effective on tree bark and berry bushes. However, in reality, the scope of such funds is much wider - they can be used to successfully fumigate storage areas for fruits and planting material, thereby preventing the growth of fungi that claim to be on cellar walls.

Sulfur preparations include:

cumulus;
thiovit jet;
sulfur garden.

Strobilurins

These fungicides are a relatively recent invention based on naturally occurring toxins derived from a microorganism called Strobilurus tenacellus. Strobilurins are "practiced" mainly on pome crops, such as apple or pear. They also process fruits during long-term storage.

The group of strobilurins includes:

Acrobat MC;
Tattu;
Profile Gold;
Amistar.

Carboxins

This group includes fungicides that have in their composition the active compound carboxin, which disrupts the vital processes of fungi and leads to their rapid death. Carboxins are used to treat mainly mature plants. The specificity of the action of carboxins does not allow their use on young plants, since they can inhibit their development.

Carboxins include such well-known drugs as:

Vitaros;
Previkur.

Benzimidazoles

Fungicides of the benzimidazole group were among the first to be used as truly universal agents that effectively work with different groups of plants and fungi. Benzimidazoles act on fungi at the cellular level, disrupting metabolic processes in the cell and thereby quickly stopping the further spread of the fungus. These drugs are used in three main areas:

dressing seeds before planting;
fruit processing before storage;
protection of fruit bushes.

There are three main types of benzimidazoles on the market:

Benorade;
Fundazim.

Mode of action

Fungicides can be divided into three broad groups according to their mode of action:

contact;
systemic;
combined.

Contact

Contact fungicides have a superficial effect without being absorbed into the vascular system of plants. Such funds must be renewed after each rainfall, since as they are washed away, there is no trace of the former effect. This, however, does not lead to the conclusion that they are useless. One of the main strengths of contact fungicides is the inability of fungi to develop resistance to them.

The group of contact fungicides includes such agents as:

Bordeaux liquid;
polycarbocin;
sulfur garden;
copper oxychloride.

When working with such drugs, it is important to consider the following features:

in one season, three to six treatments are required using contact preparations, which leads to their rapid consumption;
since the products are not able to move through the plant on their own, it is important to manually apply them so that there are no untreated and vulnerable places for fungi on the plant;
both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaf are sprayed. Most fungi begin to multiply precisely from below, which makes them invisible to the gardener's eyes at first, and therefore more dangerous;
contact fungicides are not able to cure an already diseased plant - they are used exclusively for preventive purposes to prevent the disease.

Systemic

Systemic fungicides have a complex effect on the plant, as they penetrate into its shoots and spread throughout the "body" with the help of the already mentioned vascular system. Unlike contact agents, systemic agents can play the role of medicines, preventing an already developing fungus. However, their sphere of influence is also not unlimited - a successful result can only be expected if the systemic remedy was used in the early stages of the development of the fungus.

The group of systemic fungicides includes a large number of fungicides, some of which we have already considered:

Triazoles;
Strobirulins;
Benzimidazoles;
Phenylamides;
Pyrimidinylcarbinols;
Phosphonates and so on.

When working with systemic fungicides, it is important to consider a number of their nuances:

systemic remedies retain their effectiveness for 15-20 days - more frequent treatments will not lead to an improvement in the result, but can harm the plant;
fungi quickly develop "immunity" to systemic fungicides, which leads the grower to apply all new products. To extend the validity of the same remedy, you need to use it in moderation - twice per season on a particular crop;
when using systemic tools, you can alternate them - this will allow you to "outwit" the fungus. However, it is imperative to use a fungicide from another group, otherwise the fungus will retain its resistance.

Systemic and contact fungicides are not mutually exclusive - they can be combined with each other during the processing of plants. Moreover, many experts advise to do just that and use contact fungicides for prevention, and systemic ones for targeted control of the identified fungus.

Video - Using the systemic fungicide "Skor"

Combined

There are also drugs that inherit the properties of both groups. Such universality may seem strange - how can two drugs with a reciprocal mode of action lead to the creation of a successful "hybrid"? However, the group of fungicides that combine the strengths of contact and systemic agents is quite large and includes the following items:

Sandofan M8;
Kurzat R. Odram;
Polyram DF;
Aviksil;
Ridomil Gold MC;
Arcerid.

From contact agents, such fungicides borrow the point method of application and the frequency of treatment, and from systemic agents, the ability to move through the plant with the help of its vessels.

Compound

According to their composition, fungicides are divided into two large groups:

chemical;
biological.

If we briefly outline the difference between both types of these funds, then it lies in the degree of toxicity. Chemical fungicides pose more harm and danger to humans (which is offset by their rapid effect on the fungus). Biological effects on fungal diseases are more mild, but their action is distinguished by its short duration.

We describe in more detail about these two types of drugs and fungicides related to each type below.

Popular fungicides

Table 1. Fungicides for plants

Name	Features of use
	The drug has a wide range of applications and can be successfully combined with other fungicides. In addition to protecting against fungal diseases, it helps to increase the yield. Used for plants both in greenhouses and in open field. Quadris is toxic to some apple varieties.
	A drug that combines the functions of systemic and contact fungicides. Not recommended for mixing with other drugs. Effectively fights late blight, macrosporiosis, and downy mildew. Used on potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers
	Universal drug. Retains its qualities for two hours after preparation. When released into the soil, it quickly decomposes without causing soil contamination.
	A systemic drug that helps plants fight the fungus in the initial stages of the development of the disease. Complimentary with all major fertilizers and growth stimulants (with the exception of products with an alkaline reaction). Used for processing plants and planting material
	Universal preparation suitable for processing garden trees, as well as vegetable, fruit and ornamental crops. Hom treatment is not carried out during flowering, as well as during high temperature air (above 30 degrees). When working with a fungicide, it is strictly forbidden to allow it to enter water bodies due to its high toxicity.
	The preparation of contact action, suitable for almost all plants. The action of vitriol persists for the next one and a half weeks, after which the tool needs to be updated. Activated two hours after application to the plant. Not used during flowering
	A drug used to prevent both fungal and bacterial diseases in the soil or in the plants themselves. Equally effective in working with house and garden plants. Hamair treatment should be carried out no more than once a week. Compatible with other fungicides, insecticides and growth promoters

Rules for the use of fungicides

When working with fungicides, it is important to know them. important features. An inexperienced gardener, when using these tools, risks harming himself and the plant in the absence of the necessary knowledge. In this regard, the use of each fungicide should begin with reading the instructions.

If we talk about general rules use of these drugs, they are as follows:

treatment of plants with fungicides should be carried out only in special clothing that protects the skin from possible contact with the substance. The grower will also need gloves and (preferably) goggles to minimize the chance of burns. After processing the plants, the "uniform" used is erased;
the solution is prepared immediately before its use;
the most suitable time for processing plants is early morning or evening. Spraying in direct sunlight is undesirable. It is also undesirable to have precipitation, which, when using contact fungicides, will reduce their effectiveness to zero;
when using a spray gun, it is necessary to set it to a fine spray. The jet itself must go from below or from above;
when processing plants whose green mass subsequently goes into cooking, the use of chemical fungicides is strictly prohibited. Such preparations contain components that are toxic to both animals and humans;
fungicide treatment of fruit plants is carried out before or after flowering. At the time of laying the fruit, spraying stops;
it is important to choose airtight containers for storing fungicides, since poorly sealed powders will gradually poison the room in which they are located.

Application of fungicides

There are three main methods that gardeners use when treating plants or planting material with fungicides:

pickling. This processing method applies only to planting material - seeds or corms. In most cases, the treatment involves diluting the powder in a certain amount of liquid (according to the instructions) and dipping the seeds in it for a fixed time;
spraying. All contact fungicides are applied by spraying. The method of their preparation is simple - the powder is dissolved in water, poured into a spray bottle and applied to certain areas of the plant. Such processing is carried out quite often - at least twice per season: in the first days of spring and at the end of flowering in late autumn. In addition to plants, spraying is also used in cellars or other storage facilities;
introduction into the ground. Fungicides can enter the soil both in dry and pre-dissolved form. It is advisable to bring dry powder into the ground when it is digging (in autumn or spring). The cultivation of the land with a solution does not imply attachment to the season, since it implies ordinary watering.

Working with plants

It is easy to assume that the use of fungicides depends not only on their specificity, but also on the specificity of the plants themselves. For example, processing fruit trees and tomatoes suggests its own characteristics that must be taken into account in order to get a positive result. In this chapter, we will talk about exactly how to apply fungicides to various horticultural and horticultural crops.

strawberries

The risk of developing fungal diseases in strawberry bushes is quite high. Often the fate of these plants is already a foregone conclusion, since it is very easy to acquire obviously infected seedlings for sale. Such practices of the spread of infected plants lead to the fact that strawberries began to be periodically subjected to such ailments as:

rot;
spotting;
bacteriosis;
powdery mildew.

It is advisable to treat strawberries from the beginning of the growing season until its very end:

the first treatment is carried out already when the plant has green leaves;
after the awakening of strawberries from hibernation, repeated sprayings are carried out every one and a half weeks until flowering;
processing stops at the moment when berry setting begins. Up until harvest, any fungicide exposure to fruit is highly undesirable;
after harvesting and until late autumn, the bushes are sprayed at least twice. Fungal infections are often active at this time, so it is important to stay alert.

The treatment described above is carried out both on diseased and healthy plants as a preventive measure.

Among the fungicides suitable for strawberry bushes, we note the main ones:

Bordeaux mixture;
Ridomil;
Speed

berry bushes

In such common berry bushes as currants, raspberries or gooseberries, many similar diseases appear with similar symptoms. These ailments include:

anthracnose - with this disease, the leaves of plants are covered with yellow and brown spots, as if pushing through them. As new spots form, the leaves gradually dry out and fall off;
goblet rust - characteristic mushroom spore pads appear on the leaves, which have a muted orange tint;
purple spotting - this type of spotting affects, first of all, annual raspberry stems. Purple spotting is accompanied by the spread of purple spots in the areas of attachment of leaf petioles;
American powdery mildew - unlike the classic powdery mildew, American manifests itself primarily in old varieties of currants and gooseberries that do not have immunity to this disease. The first symptom of the disease is the spread of white plaque throughout the bush. Subsequently, the plant begins to slowly die - its leaves dry out, and the berries fall off even before they ripen.

From rust, spotting and anthracosis, gardeners use bardo liquid, with which the plant is processed twice - in early spring(during the "green cone") and at the time of vegetation. In the fight against powdery mildew, Topaz and Thiovit Jet have proven themselves well, with which the bush is sprayed immediately before and after flowering.

tomatoes

Tomatoes are considered the crop that is most often subjected to fungal invasion. Among the diseases that gardeners often encounter when growing tomatoes are:

late blight;
cladosporiosis;
fusarium;
macrosporiosis;
gray rot.

The table below lists the main symptoms of these ailments, as well as methods of dealing with them.

Table 2. Fungal diseases of tomatoes

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment Methods
	Late blight is the most common disease among tomatoes. Phytophthora can be recognized by the following manifestations: 1. increasing black dots on stems and leaves; 2. dark gray coating on fruits	For the treatment of late blight, fungicides such as Barrier or Barrier are used. To prepare the solution, 8 grams of the product are taken and dissolved in ten liters clean water until complete decomposition of the powder. You can also take 50 grams of HOM or Abiga-Pak and also dissolve in 10 grams of water
	Cladosporiosis or brown spotting is easily recognized - by the appearance of dark red spots, which first spread to the leaves, and then to the whole plant as a whole. As a result, the fruits die unripe.	Unfortunately, fungicides are not used in the fight against cladosporiosis. However, they can be used to treat the soil before planting tomatoes. Reducing watering and lowering temperature helps to overcome cladosporiosis
	1. yellowing and falling of the lower leaves, gradually capturing the upper tiers of the plant; 2. drooping of the tops, outwardly resembling drying out; 3. damage to the conductive system. when cutting the lateral stem, you can see brown tissue	Two weeks before harvest, tomatoes are treated with copper sulfate (50 grams per 10 liters of water) or Barrier (20 grams per 10 liters of water)
	Gray rot appears already at the end of fruiting - at the end of October, with the arrival of rains and an increase in humidity. The disease manifests itself in the form of rusty-red marks, gradually starting to get wet and rot	Periodic treatment with Barrier or Barrier (10-15 grams of powder per 10 liters of water)
	Alternariosis proceeds with the formation of brown spots on the lower leaves, gradually spreading to the fruits	Once a month, the soil is cultivated, from which tomatoes grow. For these purposes, a Barrier is used (15 grams of powder are diluted in 10 liters of water)

Processing tomatoes with phytosporin

Step 1. Even before starting treatment, carefully inspect the plant and remove all its areas where the fungus has manifested itself. It is also necessary to cut off all the lower leaves in contact with the soil (since pathogens of fungal diseases, as a rule, live in the soil).

Step 2 Take a package of phytosporin. In order to prepare the solution in the correct dosage, you need to follow one rule - the powder (or paste) should be half as much as water. Accordingly, if you take 200 grams of phytosporin, then you will need 400 milliliters of water.

Step 3 Pour the solution into the sprayer and set the spray mode to fine. Treat the plant with the resulting composition. Small drops will last longer on the sheet and give the best result.

Step 4 The solution must necessarily get to both the upper and lower parts of the plant, since phytosporin belongs to the contact type of fungicides. Treat the lower levels especially carefully, as they are at risk.

decorative garden

The processing of ornamental plants is designed to combat the types of diseases already familiar from the previous sections:

If you are going to subsequently store the bulbs or tubers of plants for planting, then before placing them in containers, it is necessary to treat the planting material with Maxim.

Important! Before treatment with fungicides, the planting material must be dried and cleaned of dried scales.

Vaults

Treating storages and cellars with fungicides will significantly reduce the likelihood of infection of fruits or planting material with fungal diseases. This procedure should be carried out shortly before the fruits are transferred to storage. Like fruits, storage facilities are dried before being treated with fungicides.

As a treatment, most gardeners prefer those that contain a large amount of sulfur, or garden sulfur itself. For fumigating one square meter you need fifty grams of sulfur. In addition to the walls, boxes and any other equipment that is in the storage are also processed.

Video - Features of the use of fungicides

In the process of caring for the garden, it is often necessary to apply fungicides. We are talking about special chemicals that are used to combat pathogens that cause the development of fungal diseases, for example, gray rot, powdery mildew, etc.

Depending on the method of action on pathogenic fungi, several types of fungicides are distinguished: contact and systemic action.

Actions of contact fungicides

When using these drugs, their penetration into plants is excluded. They cover the outer part of the plant; if there is a fungus on the surface of the reproductive and vegetative organs, they are suppressed. All drugs act for a different period, which is determined by the duration of the solution on the surface of the plant. The best results can be achieved if processing at least 3-5 times at intervals of 10-12 days.

A feature of contact fungicides is the local nature of the impact. They are not used to treat diseased plants, they are designed to suppress pathogens located on the surface or directly in plant tissues. Due to the fact that these fungicides are unable to spread to other parts of the plant, such treatment before the formation of fruits excludes penetration into them.

Systemic preparations act somewhat differently: as a result of processing, they penetrate into the internal organs of the plant, spread through the tissues, making changes to the physiological and biochemical processes occurring in the plant organs. As time goes on they decomposition within plants, which ends with the formation of metabolites. In this state, they begin to have a depressing effect on the harmful fungus.

It is believed that the decomposition products that form inside the plants are more harmful than the drug itself. In order to avoid possible complications, it is best to carry out processing in gardens and private households with the help of chemical preparations of precisely contact action. At the same time, the deadline for their use is the period when one month remains before the harvest.

Types of fungicides and methods of their application

Fungicides are available in gardening stores in various types: in the shape of powder, suspension, emulsion, highly soluble in water.

Depending on the composition, the following types of fungicidal preparations are distinguished:

Inorganic. Within this group, preparations of 1-4 hazard classes for humans and warm-blooded creatures are distinguished;
Organic. The main component in them are active microorganisms that inhibit pathogenic fungi.

More preferred to use in suburban areas biofungicides, because in addition to high efficiency, they cause minimal harm to plants.

Chemical fungicides

Often for effective fight With pests, gardeners buy new drugs, especially if they provide high efficiency with a small dose of application. However, doing so is wrong. You can count on good results only if you use proven drugs. Within the group of chemical fungicides that have proven their effectiveness when used for protection during the growing season of various horticultural crops, the following can be distinguished:

Bordeaux liquid;
copper sulfate;
abiga-peak, sun;
oxychome;
cineb;
thiram;
potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate);
soda ash using an adhesive (green soap).

Biological fungicides

In recent years, many biological contact fungicides have appeared on the market. In their manufacture, a slightly different approach is used than in the case of chemical preparations. The main component of biofungicides are active bacteria, whose activity has a depressing effect on pathogens of fungal diseases.

It is more preferable to use biofungicides of contact action, since they do not cause or cause minimal harm to humans, warm-blooded animals, fish and bees. Consumers who are going to use biofungicides at home should pay attention to the following types of preparations:

It is possible to carry out treatment with chemical contact fungicides only before flowering and after harvest. The advantage of biofungicides is that they can be applied throughout the growing season. At the same time, there are also such preparations on sale that can be used at the stage of crop ripening. It should be borne in mind that contact drugs are effective for prevention purposes. If the drug reaches the causative agent of the disease, then this leads to its death. If the plants are already affected by the disease, then they cannot be saved with the help of these drugs.

Rules for working with contact fungicides

Before using a fungicide, you need to take care of your own safety: for this you need prepare closed clothes, rubber gloves and goggles and a headdress. After processing, the clothes are sent to the laundry, and the hands and face must be thoroughly washed with soap and water.

It is necessary to carry out the treatment of plants with a pre-prepared solution. The exception is situations where the instructions require the use of a fresh composition.

In the process of preparing a solution for treating plants, it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations specified in the instructions, maintaining the optimal consumption rate, taking into account the phase of plant development.

You can use fungicides in the most favorable conditions for this: in the early morning or evening, provided that it is worth dry windless weather.

For the sprayer, it is necessary to select the operating mode for fine spraying. The cloud of solution emerging from it should pour onto the plants from below and from above.

It is forbidden to use chemical fungicides in relation to those plants, the green parts of the above-ground mass of which are planned to be used. For safety reasons, processing of all crops should be carried out before the flowering and fruiting phase.

It is impossible to clean the dishes in which the solution was prepared in reservoirs. Disposal of used pesticides should be carried out only in specially designated areas.

The place where it is supposed to store fungicides and other preparations with chemical composition, should have restricted access. Drugs must be placed in sealed packaging.

If the investigator follows the rules for the use of fungicides listed above, then you can not only prevent the appearance of dangerous pests on the site, but also not harm yourself and the environment.

List of fungicides

Due to the high toxicity of most fungicides on the market today, there must be a good reason for the gardener to use them at home. Before using drugs, it is mandatory to familiarize yourself with the safety regulations for the use of toxic substances.

Oksikh. A drug containing from copper oxychloride and oxadixyl. Belongs to the number of contact systemic fungicides, used for preventive purposes and to suppress diseases of garden and indoor plant crops. Recommended for use in the fight against late blight, macrosporiosis, black bacterial spot, septoria, etc. Non-toxicity makes this drug safe to use.

Preparation of working solution

Processing of plants is carried out only with a freshly prepared solution. First, one third of the volume of water must be poured into the sprayer tank, then start the mixing device and pour the required amount of the drug. After that, the remaining part of the necessary water is poured, the solution mixes well, after which the infected plants are treated with it.

A prerequisite is the purity of the water used to prepare the solution.

The recommended consumption rate is one packet per 2 liters of water. In some cases, it may be necessary to carry out three treatments, but between them it is necessary to withstand a break of 10-14 days. Plants can only be treated with a freshly prepared solution based on the drug oxychom. It can be used as a component for the preparation of complex mixtures.

Advantages of the drug:

operates according to the system-contact principle;
the effect after treatment lasts for two weeks;
lack of toxicity, provided that the treatment is carried out in compliance with the recommended doses;
economy of consumption when used for preventive purposes.

Trichodermin. Belongs to the group biological preparations designed to fight fungal and bacterial diseases. The main active component is the spores of the soil fungus Trichoderma lignorum and crushed grain substrate. The drug effectively fights against more than 60 types of soil pathogens that cause the development of many well-known diseases: root and fruit rot, seed infections, macrosporiosis, fusarium, etc.

The positive effect of the drug is to improve soil fertility, provide plant roots with additional nutrients, increase seed germination.

Application method:

Conclusion

The problem of protecting plants from diseases is relevant for every gardener. In order to cope with them faster and without consequences, many chemicals are used for this. Fungicides are among the most popular, which demonstrate high efficiency. However, when choosing them, it is necessary to proceed from the position in order to cause minimal harm to the plant. Therefore, preference should be given to those that have the least toxicity. When choosing fungicidal preparations, it is necessary to focus on their recommendations for use. This will help to avoid undesirable consequences after processing.

Problems with insects and fungi are not only on the garden bed. The greenhouse conditions of window sills and balconies are very fond of mold, especially when we carefully care for plants - regular watering, fertilizing the soil, indirect sunlight. Such conditions are liked by both insects and fungi as well. Sometimes you have to seriously think about pesticides and fungicides.

In home growing conditions, we have to be very careful in choosing potent agents - plants in the same room with us, how to calculate the minimum dosage, is it safe to eat processed herbs ... But for small “production volumes” of a home garden, there is a good and proven alternative to synthesized concentrates - natural pesticides and fungicides that can be prepared independently from plants and minerals familiar to us.

I tried to publish recipes with the greatest positive response, as personal experience I have little use - alcohol always saved me, about which there are also a couple of words below.

Milk and salt for powdery mildew

A glass of milk
Glass of water
A teaspoon of salt without a slide.

The salt dehydrates the fungus, and the milk allows the salt to stick to the leaves. It is advisable to cover the soil so as not to salt it during the treatment. Treat every 2-3 days.

Rapeseed oil and soft-bodied insect soap

Mix a tablespoon of rapeseed oil with a few drops liquid soap and a liter of water. Insects really die from it. Rapeseed, like soybeans, is used as a natural effective pesticide.

natural essential oils

Citrus essential oils are excellent pest control. Especially effective: lemon, orange, bergamot, lemongrass. Conifers work worse.

Dissolve a few drops of oil and soap in 0.5 liters of water and irrigate the plants for prevention.

Himalayan pink salt

Himalayan salt is a natural inorganic pesticide. It contains 83 chemical element, some of which destroy the shells of soft-bodied pests and prevent fungal and mold spores from growing. This salt works better than rock and sea salt (so they say, but I am reserved about such statements. Still, the main working substance in this case is banal sodium, and not the homeopathic amount of molybdenum, gold and something else in Himalayan salt). 1 tablespoon per liter of water. You can also irrigate plants for prevention, but covering the soil can salt the soil.

Hot pepper+garlic+onion

These natural pesticides in various combinations are most often found in recipes. Here is the basic recipe:

2 teaspoons ground chili (hot pepper, cayenne)
half an onion
3-4 garlic cloves
1 liter of water

Place the onion and garlic in a blender with a little water and grind to a paste. Mix the pasta with a liter of warm water and pepper, put in a warm place to infuse for a day. We filter, irrigate the infected plant with infusion every 2-3 days. The tincture should be stored in the refrigerator and will last for several weeks.

Natural laundry soap

Probably, everyone knows about the effectiveness of soap against, literally, everything. Apparently, the alkali in the soap is a good pesticide and fungicide, and the soap base helps the active substances stick to the plant.

Grate 10 grams of soap on a grater and dissolve in a liter of warm water. There are recipes with the addition of 2 teaspoons of baking soda. But not only laundry soap appears in recipes for natural pesticides.

Liquid soap

Increasingly, there are variations with liquid soap, and I think that due to the huge amount of organic and inorganic salts, liquid soap is effective in its own way in the fight against insects and molds.

Dissolve a teaspoon of liquid soap in a liter of warm water, treat the plant with a spray bottle every 2-3 days. Soda can also be added to this solution. There are recipes for a solution of liquid soap with rapeseed oil: 1 tbsp of oil, 1 tsp of soap and a liter of water. It was with such a mixture that Benjamin's ficus was saved, which was ill with something unknown and shed its leaves. after processing the whole overgrowth.

tobacco leaves

This is actually a good pesticide, but with one significant drawback - a virus very often lives in tobacco. tobacco mosaic which I wrote about in the article. And it is not at all suitable for processing nightshade (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants ...). Infuse 0.5 cups of tobacco leaves in a liter of warm water for a day, strain and add a teaspoon of liquid soap (there are variations with milk - a glass of milk, 2 glasses of water). Spray every 2-3 days until the problem disappears.

chrysanthemum flowers

Chrysanthemum has a powerful paralyzing pesticide in its composition that copes with most garden pests. Pour 0.5 cups of dried or 1.5 cups of fresh flowers with a liter of boiling water and boil the chrysanthemum over low heat for 20 minutes. I don’t like to cook herbs, I steam them in a thermos, but the original recipe still boils. Let the broth cool and strain. Water the diseased plant.

Update 07/11/2017 Recently I watched a lecture on chemistry, in which natural plant pesticides were mentioned. The substance in the chrysanthemum is a very powerful thing, in the production of a concentrate and use in the so-called "bio-farming" it harms the health of the people who work with it.

rhubarb leaves

Rhubarb works thanks to organic acids. Pour a glass of finely chopped rhubarb with hot (not boiling water!) Water and let it brew for a day in warmth. Strain, add a spoonful of soap. Irrigate until the disease or pest is gone. Suitable for prevention.

Alcohol

I myself use alcohol when the heating is weak and damp in early spring. Just at this time, the protective properties of the plant itself are weakening, since it is time to replant and change the soil, and all sorts of scale insects and fungus on the surface of the soil are right there. I wipe the leaves of the plant with a cotton pad dipped in pharmaceutical alcohol, I do not breed. You can irrigate with alcohol, including window sills and window frames. This is an excellent tool for literally everything except viruses. Irrigated thyme with alcohol when she brought spider mite- working.

Garlic+mint+pepper

It is a pesticide-insecticide that works great for both treatment and prevention.

5 garlic cloves, peeled
0.5 cup dried mint leaves (or a cup of fresh, the stems are also good here)
1 tsp hot pepper
1 tsp dishwashing liquid or liquid soap
1 liter of water.

Load everything except water and soap into a food processor and grind into a paste. Mix the pasta with water and bring to a boil, leave to cool for 12 hours. I would pour the pasta with boiling water, without cooking. Strain, add soap and water the plants.

chamomile

Chamomile works well against fungal infections of plants and soil. Pour 1 cup of dried chamomile flowers into a thermos and pour a liter of boiling water. A thermos is a good alternative to a bain-marie, and if you have the option of steaming herbs in a thermos, it's best not to boil your herbs on gas. Let it brew overnight, strain. This infusion can be both irrigated and watered plants. If mold has appeared on the soil, we must first dry it, and then add additional moisture.

Aspirin

About acetylsalicylic, you need to write a separate article, but for now, here is a recipe: 2 aspirin tablets (those that are 300 mg each) per liter of water - irrigate and water. This is one of the best means against powdery mildew, gray mold, black leg. I myself have not yet tried and understood the mechanism of operation of acetylsalicylic acid as a pesticide and fungicide, but I am already collecting material. Reviews for aspirin are good.

Lemon juice

Cut the skin from 5 lemons, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water and leave to infuse for a day. Squeeze the juice from lemons and add a glass of water, irrigate plants with fresh juice that are infested with aphids or other soft-bodied insects. Lemon juice is undesirable to get into the ground. Water the soil around infected plants with infusion of lemon peel, repeat once a month for prevention.

Why peels: lemon juice will acidify the soil, and not all plants like it. The zest also contains an active essential oil that the aphid does not tolerate. This applies, in principle, to most citrus essential oils.

Soda + oil

Good natural remedy from fungi. Mix 1 tbsp of soda with 1 tbsp of vegetable oil, stir in a glass of well-warm water. Next, pour the mixture into 1.5 liters of water. Spray every other day until the fungus is gone. There is one drawback - soda salts the soil, so you need to use the product without fanaticism, and pay attention to the recipe with milk.

Before treating the plant, try the product on a separate leaf or twig to make sure there is no side effects. Sometimes you can not calculate with concentration, sometimes specific plant one or another ingredient may not be suitable.
Apply the mixture on the inside of the leaves and on the stems, work the soil if the product will not acidify or salt the soil.
On processing days, keep pots out of direct sunlight.
Do not forget that any spray substances, even if they are at least 100 times natural, have active ingredients that, when inhaled by a person, can cause serious discomfort (especially with hot pepper in the composition and essential oils) so use protection!

The authors of most of the recipes I have collected notice that ladybugs and bees do not suffer from natural pesticides, since the concentration of active substances is much lower. This is very important, because by unwittingly exterminating these insects, we can leave our fields without pollination and natural protection against soft-bodied pests ...

Addition 07/11/2017 Modern means Crop protection products are tightly controlled for toxicity, biodegradability and effects on pollinating insects.