How to store amaryllis bulbs in winter. Amaryllis wintering: we prepare and store the bulb correctly

Conditions for growing amaryllis

1. Location:

2. Lighting conditions:

3. Humidity:

4. Ventilation

5. Optimum room temperature:

How to plant amaryllis

Pot selection

Soil preparation

Planting amaryllis step by step

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and with a smooth surface, which have fairly good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of decay and mold damage, spots. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, it is also not worth choosing.

Amaryllis transplant

Reproduction of amaryllis

Amaryllis from seeds at home

• Embedding depth 1-1.5 cm.

dividing the bulb

How to cut an amaryllis bulb, the video will tell:

Reproduction by children

The most successful amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store bulbs, but a slightly larger pot is chosen. It is connected with rapid growth kids.

Amaryllis care at home

Watering and feeding

Amaryllis bloom at home

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Amaryllis after flowering

Experienced flower growers know the tricks, because of which their amaryllis is twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. To do this, they strictly organize a dormant period for the rest of the bulb and the accumulation of the necessary useful substances. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from their place of rest, put them in a bright and insulated place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

2. Mold and rot

3. Spider mite

4. Onion mite

5. Thrips

6. Mealybug

9. Aphid

• Yellowness of leaves.

10. Springtail

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

This does not mean that classic amaryllis is not in demand on the market. Standard varieties such as Durban (carmine flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink white petals), Parker (yellow center and purplish pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Photo of plants

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

1. Flowering time:

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Aroma intensity:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• in amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. The number of flowers in one plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

7. The presence of leaves during flowering:

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

9. Peduncle length:

• in amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb in shape:

• pear-shaped;

11. Characteristics of scales:

Description of amaryllis

Amaryllis is a popular houseplant found in the flower collections of many flower growers. Demanded for its beautiful flowers and simple care. To make the amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don’t need to try hard. This task will be suitable for beginners as well. If you want to start a plant at home with beautiful flowers, but do not want to do it too much, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for these purposes.

Conditions for growing amaryllis

In amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the vegetation phase. So, at a certain time, the plant actively grows, and at another time, it has a dormant time. Growers need to be aware of the inability of amaryllis to survive in very cold conditions where temperatures hover around freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.

Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.

1. Location:

• In the growth phase, this window is in the southeast or southwest. You can put the plant on the south window, if you first shade it from the scorching daylight rays of the sun. Otherwise, the leaves will burn out from intense lighting.
• During dormancy, the plant is placed in a dark place, where the air is slightly cool and well ventilated.

2. Lighting conditions:

• In the growth phase, powerful diffused sunlight should fall on the plant for 14-16 hours every day. Both the leaves and the peduncle usually stretch towards the sun, which means that the pot will constantly have to be rotated so that they grow strictly vertically. You can also equip the plant with special props.
• During the dormant period, accordingly, no additional lighting requirements are put forward.

3. Humidity:

The plant loves moisture very much, so it is recommended to water it with regularly settled water at room temperature, it is possible through a pan, excess water from which is drained after 6-8 hours. They make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but it is not necessary to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, more water is needed. If it stagnates, then rotting of the roots, wilting of the leaves, loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not harm the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisten the buds before flowering. The optimum humidity should be 60-80%.

During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only periodically sprayed. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and germinates up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.

4. Ventilation

Amaryllis needs to ensure regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.

5. Optimum room temperature:

• During the active growing season - 22–24ºС during the daytime and 18ºС at night. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not suffer from constant temperature fluctuations.
• During the dormant period, both day and night, the temperature should be 10-12ºС.

How to plant amaryllis

Planting amaryllis at home photo

Pot selection

Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It should be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can topple itself. In addition, during care, a light pot is more likely to hurt than a massive one.

The size of the vessel is chosen based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. And this means that it should be up to 3-5 cm from it to all walls. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and gradually narrows at the top.

Soil preparation

It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.

The next step is to choose the soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs there. But any experienced grower will abandon this idea and go to prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: for this, it is doused with strong boiling water or kept over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.

The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:

• turf, garden soil and river sand in equal parts and half of the humus;
• turf, garden soil, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
• humus, soddy land and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

At the bottom, it is necessary to fill up drainage with a thickness of 2-3 cm. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, accessible brick chips, small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drainage is mixed with the substrate and spread over the surface of the pot. It also has a large hole for water drainage.

Drainage from above is also covered with sand by 2-3 cm, in order to additionally be safe from root rotting due to water accumulation.

Planting amaryllis step by step

Planting indoor amaryllis photo

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface, which have fairly good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of decay and mold damage, spots. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, it is also not worth choosing.

Amaryllis transplant

How to transplant amaryllis at home

Amaryllis transplantation is carried out after it has faded, waiting for the peduncle to completely wither.

It is not necessary to replant the plant every year, but the operation is carried out no more than once every three years. If the amaryllis grows too fast, you can transplant earlier.

To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of potted soil with new ones every year.

1. Before transplanting, the plant is watered abundantly for 4 days.
2. On the day of transplantation, the amaryllis is carefully taken out along with the earth and carefully cleaned of it to inspect the condition of the roots. Rotting roots are removed sharp knife, and all sections are treated with activated carbon powder or ordinary ash.
3. Then all bad scales are removed from the bulb and daughter plants are separated. They are used to plant in new pots. If you understand that the babies are too small to separate (sometimes they are only a few millimeters), you can not do this. But it should be borne in mind that in such cases, amaryllis may stop blooming in order to grow children.

Before an adult plant is planted in another pot, it must be fed. A few sticks of Agricola or another are brought under the roots. mineral fertilizer.

Reproduction of amaryllis

Breeders and flower growers use all three possible methods of amaryllis propagation - dividing the bulb, children and seeds.

Amaryllis seeds photo How to get amaryllis seeds

This is the longest breeding method and the least successful. If the seeds are collected from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.

Amaryllis seeds at home

To get seeds, you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pestle of the other. As a result, a box is formed in which the seeds will then ripen. Ripening takes at least a month.

Amaryllis from seed seedling photo

• Seeds are planted immediately, as germination drops sharply over time.
• Moisten the soil well before planting.
• Embedding depth 1-1.5 cm.
• Distance between seeds 3-5 cm
• The pot with seeds is placed in a warm shaded place.
• They expect about a month of germination, and 3 months after that, the seedlings dive into different pots.

dividing the bulb

How to cut amaryllis bulbs photo

This is the most risky method, since you can be left with nothing.

• Choose the healthiest onion and divide it into 4-8 shares, without cutting to the end. Make sure that each of them has 1-2 scales and part of the bottom. Be sure to treat the sections with activated carbon powder or ash.
• The bulb is planted in the usual way and grown at 25-27 ºС.
• On delenki, the first leaf grows first. They wait for the second, and plant the plants already in adult soil for bulbs, which is mixed with an equal amount of sand.

How to cut an amaryllis bulb, the video will tell:

Many growers have successfully used bulb division to propagate amaryllis, it's important to just do it right and not be afraid to take risks.

Reproduction by children

The most successful way to propagate amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store bulbs, but a slightly larger pot is chosen. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

1. Find small onions on the mother amaryllis and separate them from the adult plant. The next step is to plant them in a pot with drainage and soil, placing the bottom down and lightly pressing into the ground. Only part of the bulb is left above the surface.
2. Then lightly tamp the soil and water it well. Place new amaryllis in a bright and warm place.
3. There is no need to organize a rest period. Feeding and watering are not reduced, and rest is organized for flowers only after flowering.

Amaryllis - although an exotic plant, but quite real in everyone's house. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.

Amaryllis care at home

Amaryllis planting and care at home photo

Watering and feeding

During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the height of the peduncle is at least 10 cm. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant form. Sometimes it is better to refuse watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that water does not get on the bulb during watering. It should fall purely on the soil around.

In winter, so much water should not flow to the plant. It is enough not to spray more than once a week.

• Fertilize amaryllis every 12-14 days, starting this process when buds form.
• With intensive flowering, reduce the interval by half. There is no need to specifically select fertilizers. For this, any ready-made products for indoor blooming will fit - Kemira Lux, Emerald, Bona Forte, Ideal, Ava, Rainbow, Florist, Master Color, Agricola, Living World, Reasil, Bud, Life Force and others.
• Fertilizers with more potassium and phosphorus are preferable than nitrogen.

It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted from a ratio of 1.5 cups in 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a cup per 10 liters.

With the complete death of the leaves, top dressing stops. It is not carried out in the resting phase either.

Amaryllis bloom at home

Amaryllis in the wild enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture, there are tricks on how to change this period. The simplest is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, giving mature flower stalks as early as 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to load the bulb abundantly with flowering.

When the first flower appeared and blossomed, some cut the peduncle and put it in a vase. Subject to daily renewal of water, he can hold out there for up to three weeks. You can not cut the peduncle, but it will last the same amount, and it will deplete the bulb much more. To maximize the flowering time, the vase or flower pot is placed in a cooler and darker place.

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Why amaryllis does not bloom How to make amaryllis bloom

You must understand which reason you have listed. It must be eliminated and the result expected.

Amaryllis after flowering

1. When the flowers wither, the amount of incoming water and fertilizers is sharply reduced. Completely stop watering and feeding amaryllis when neither the peduncle nor the leaves are left.
2. Remove all dead leaves, but you should not force it. If a partially live leaf is left, it will still feed the plant.
3. When the dormant phase has finally begun, the pot is transferred to the dark. Remember that the roots are still alive, so the soil needs to be irrigated once a week with a spray bottle.

Another care option (but risky) is digging up the bulbs, cleaning them, and putting them in cardboard boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.

Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make their amaryllis flowers bloom twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. For this, a dormant period is strictly organized to rest the bulb and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from their place of rest, put them in a bright and insulated place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

red amaryllis burn photo

• The bulb is covered with small red spots, the edges of the scales have the same border.
• Amaryllis is soaked for 2 hours in strong purple potassium permanganate, after which the largest foci are cut off and treated with brilliant green. The plant is kept in the air for a week, then planted.

2. Mold and rot

Rot on amaryllis photo

• The surface of the bulb is covered with red-gray spots. Then it becomes softer, smells of a sweetish type. The leaves are covered with red-brown stripes and spots.
• The affected leaves are completely cut off, and the bulb itself is sprayed with 0.05% Bordeaux mixture. You can choose Fundazol and HOM in the dilution indicated by the manufacturer.

3. Spider mite

• It is felt that the leaves are covered with cobwebs. This causes them to wither and dry out.
• Amaryllis is treated with Oberon, Kleschevit, Nisoran, Floromite, Neoron.

4. Onion mite

The defeat of amaryllis with an onion mite photo

• The insect infects the bulb itself, which leads to inhibition of plant development and the absence of flowering. Even if there are flowers, they are deformed. And the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• Bulbs are removed from the pots and placed in water at 35-40ºС for 5 minutes. After that, they are treated with Keltan and Rogor. There is also a more aggressive method - the bulb is closed in an airtight container with a sulfur checker, which is set on fire. Wait 2 hours and then get it back. To achieve the final effect, keep the amaryllis in the fresh air for another day.

5. Thrips

The defeat of amaryllis thrips photo

• There are many small brown dots on the leaves.
• They try to remove all pests from the leaves, wash the plant and transplant into a sterile pot and soil. Then the amaryllis is treated with Agravertin and Fitoverm.

6. Mealybug

Mealybug on amaryllis photo

Shield on amaryllis photo

• Dense scales are observed from the bottom of the leaves. They can be almost white and even dark brown. Around them, there are secretions of a sticky nature, similar in type to syrup.
• The sponge is impregnated laundry soap and foam. She actively rub the leaves.

9. Aphid

Aphids on amaryllis photo

• Yellowness of leaves.
• All pests are harvested by hand, after which the leaves are wiped with soapy water.

10. Springtail

Springtails on amaryllis photo

• Small white insects are noticeable on the surface of the soil.
• Reduce the flow of moisture, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with insecticides.

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

The shops sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis, which are bred selectively. Real Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and is valued by avid flower growers.

At the moment, breeders are achieving the following tasks:

• Breeding large double and ordinary flowers. The most beautiful terry-type hybrids are The Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Promise. Of the non-terry varieties, these are Benfica, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Black Pearl, Exotica, Lemon-Lime, Rosalie.
• Search for unique shades and their combinations. In this sense, Clown, Charisma, Estella, Prelude, Santa Cruz, Neon and other varieties are good.
• Working with new forms of flowers. The recent trend in breeding is the breeding of amaryllis with narrow, partially corrugated petals along the edges. This can be seen in the varieties Evergreen, Night Star, Lima, La Paz, Santana.

This does not mean that amaryllis classic varieties are not in demand on the market. Standard varieties such as Durban (carmine flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink white petals), Parker (yellow center and purplish pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Photo of plants

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences photo In the photo amaryllis

Amaryllis and hippeastrum are from the Amaryllis family. Only in the first genus is significant more plants. At least 90 species grow only in the wild, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family has up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences In the photo, hippeastrum

In order not to repeat, below, each first paragraph - refers to amaryllis, the second - to hippeastrum.

1. Flowering time:

• amaryllis blooms in late summer - early autumn;
• hippeastrum - in late winter or early spring.

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Aroma intensity:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• in amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. The number of flowers in one plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

• almost white, pink in different shades, red;
• red, pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, green and combinations of these colors.

7. The presence of leaves during flowering:

• no - they germinate only after the peduncle has grown;
• present during flowering.

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

• a dense tube without voids, the color of which gives off a little purple;
• a hollow tube that is easy to crush when pressed, has a green color with a grayish-brown tint.

9. Peduncle length:

• in amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb in shape:

• pear-shaped;
• slightly elongated or round, slightly flattened laterally.

11. Characteristics of scales:

• ash-gray in color, have a small fringe from the upper edge;
• very similar in appearance to the classic edible onion, but have a white or green surface color.

Description of amaryllis

Planting and flowering of amaryllis Amaryllis reproduction and care at home

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the amaryllis family (lat. Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed to him one species of plant - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers claim that the plant spread from the Olifants River Valley from the Cape Province of South Africa. As for other species, here the geography is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the birthplace of plants.

For the first time, the genus Amaryllis was described by the famous Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. He is credited with the name of this flower. Before his work, there was an opinion that amaryllis is only one of the subspecies of the lily. It was called Lilionarcissus. Linnaeus realized that this was a separate plant, but made a significant error in taxonomy by including a number of varieties of hippeastrum in the genus Amaryllis. To this day, many people confuse these plants.

The name of the plant is first found in the work of Virgil. In his poetic works, you can meet the heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllida. This name in Greek means "sparkling".

Amaryllis flowers care Amaryllis flower photo

Amaryllis - bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The green of the plant is so narrow and long that it looks like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.

A mark of the beginning of flowering of amaryllis is the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Leaves will follow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. By type of inflorescence - an umbrella.

Amaryllis grown in the wild can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders artificially bred many hybrid varieties of yellow, purple, orange, green. A separate amaryllis flower looks like a lily and - a gramophone, being 10-12 centimeters in diameter.

Amaryllis belladonna Amaryllis Belladonna planting and care at home photo

Despite the seeming cuteness of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorine was found in the bulb. If it gets on the skin, it will irritate. All planting operations with the plant should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap and water. It is necessary to keep the flower away from pets and children.

Amaryllis, the care of which is quite simple if you follow simple rules, is a bulbous plant from the family of the same name. A native of South Africa, he was brought to Europe in the 18th century, where he quickly took one of the leading positions among flowering ornamental crops.

Types and varieties of plants

The genus is represented by the only species that is known under two names - Amaryllis Belladonna or Amaryllis Beautiful. A perennial plant with a bulbous root system has xiphoid basal leaves in two rows, framing a fleshy peduncle up to 60 cm tall. When flowering at the end of the arrow, an umbrella inflorescence is formed, consisting of flowers with a diameter of 5-8 cm with a variety of colors, depending on the variety.

After the appearance of amaryllis in the gardens and on the windowsills of Europeans, breeders do not stop working on the development of new varieties, among which stand out:

• Durban- a large-flowered variety, distinguished by carmine-red bell-shaped flowers with a white throat.
• Parker- a typical representative of a pink color with a yellow base of the petals.
• ice queen- a variety with large flowers, consisting of glossy white petals with a creamy coating around the edges.
• Vera- pink flowers of this variety have a distinctive feature in the form of a mother-of-pearl coating.
• red lion- a beautiful representative of the species with large flowers, painted in intense red.
• La Paz- an original variety with flowers consisting of narrowed green petals with a border in the form of a red coating.

Amaryllis: growing features

The plant, which is highly decorative in combination with undemanding, has a number of features associated with the natural environment that must be considered when cultivating a flower at home:

• enough light;
• moderation of watering;
• correct selection of the pot;
• feeding regularity.

Home Care

Successful cultivation of amaryllis requires adherence to basic care measures.

Lighting and location

Amaryllis needs a stream of soft light, which is possible to provide a flower when placed on the windowsills of the southeast and southwest directions with additional protection from direct sunlight during the period of greatest solar activity. Curtains can be used as protection.

Important! In the summer season, daylight hours should be at least 16 hours.

Temperature

The temperature regime for the full development of amaryllis depends on the phase of development:

• In the phase of active growth, the optimum temperature varies from 18 to 25°C, depending on the time of day.
• During the dormant period provided temperature regime in the range from 10 to 16°C.

Carefully! When growing a culture, strong temperature changes that adversely affect the plant should not be allowed.

Soil and pot requirements

To obtain a flowering plant, it is necessary to select a small container. The soil for filling the pot is required with a slightly acidic reaction in the range of 6.0-6.5 points and a loose structure. The nutrient substrate, prepared from soddy and leafy soils, sand and humus in a ratio of 2:2:2:1, is calcined in an oven before use to destroy pathogens.

Watering the flower and air humidity

When watering a flower, which should be carried out after the earthen clod has dried, the lower method of moistening is used: the pot is placed in a pan with water for 20-30 minutes, which helps prevent unwanted water from entering the bulb, which occurs during the upper irrigation method. Amaryllis easily adapts to dry air in the apartment, so it does not require additional spraying.

Advice! To facilitate the breathing of a flower through the leaf plates, you should systematically wipe them from dust.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Amaryllis needs regular feeding during the period of active growth:

• bird droppings, diluted in water in a proportion of 10 g per bucket of liquid;
• mullein at the rate of 250 g per bucket of water;
• a solution of mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content, prepared from a bucket of water and 3 g of an agrochemical.

Attention! An excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause a red flower burn.

Flowering and pruning

With the advent of autumn, the flowering of the culture is noted, which, unlike the hippeastrum, occurs after the development of the green mass. In the natural environment, this period in which flowers bloom white and pink flowers falls in autumn. In culture, many varieties with a variety of colors have been bred. After flowering, the shoots die off naturally, and pruning is not required.

Transfer

The amaryllis flower is transplanted every 3-4 years after flowering is completed.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. A new container is selected so that the distance between the wall of the pot and the edge of the bulb is 2-3 cm.
2. Expanded clay drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot.
3. The bulb is inspected for diseases and placed in a pot, after which it is sprinkled with a new substrate so that ⅓ of the part remains above the ground.
4. The substrate is compacted and slightly moistened.

rest period

After the end of the flowering phase, the plant begins to prepare for a dormant period, which lasts an average of 2 months: watering and top dressing are reduced. Foliage shedding signals the beginning of active bulb growth. At this time, the pot is moved to a dark room, where the temperature should not exceed 16 ° C. Humidification is carried out as needed, when the earthen clod dries.

Disease and pest control

The flower is affected by diseases in the form of rot if the maintenance regulations are violated - excessive watering, a high concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate. With the intensive development of the disease, the plant may die. To prevent this, it is necessary to strictly comply with agrotechnical requirements. Among the pests observed on amaryllis, there are spider mite, mealybug and scale insects, which should be dealt with by spraying the plant with insecticidal preparations according to the instructions indicated on the package.

Reproduction of amaryllis

Amaryllis is bred in two ways: generative and vegetative.

seeds

Due to the laboriousness of the method and the inability to maintain varietal qualities seed propagation at home is extremely rare.

If, nevertheless, the florist decided, then:

1. Artificial pollination is carried out with a brush.
2. After two months, when the seed pods begin to crack, the seed is collected.
3. Dried seeds are distributed over the surface of light moistened soil in January-February, and sprinkled with a 0.5 cm layer of earth.
4. The container is kept at a temperature of 22-25°C under glass until emergence.
5. After the seedlings have 1 pair of true leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate pots.

Attention! New plants obtained in this way will please the first flowering only after a seven-year period of growth.

babes

With the next transplant, reproduction can be carried out by separating the children:

1. With the help of a sharp instrument, a baby with roots is separated from the mother bulb.
2. Sections are disinfected with an antiseptic in the form of crushed activated carbon or a fungicide solution.
3. A small bulb is planted in a separate pot with a prepared amaryllis substrate and moved to warm room for rooting. After 1-3 years, mature bulbs will grow that can bloom.

dividing the bulb

The most popular technique in which:

1. A large bulb is selected, freed from scales, after which it is divided into 4 parts.
2. Delenki are immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection.
3. After half an hour, the parts are buried by ⅓ in a special substrate and kept at a temperature of 22 ° C until rooting.

Why amaryllis does not bloom, flowers and leaves turn pale?

Despite the unpretentiousness of the culture, non-compliance with the basic agrotechnical requirements can lead to a loss of decorative flower or total absence inflorescences.

The main reasons are:

• lack of lighting;
• lack of macro- and microelements;
• lack of a resting phase;
• untimely transplant;
• deep embedment of the bulb;
• constant overflows that led to the development of diseases;
• incorrectly selected pot;
• the presence of pests.

Important! If less than three years have passed since the bulb was planted, the absence of a flowering phase is a normal physiological process.

How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Often, hippeastrums from the tropical zones of South America, the genus of which has more than 85 varieties, are mistaken for amaryllis, represented by only one species.

There are a number of parameters that will help the grower not to make a mistake:

• bulb - in amaryllis, the bulb is pear-shaped, while in a tropical flower it is round;
• inflorescence - in amaryllis, umbrellas consist of 6-12 flowers, while in hippeastrum - from 6 pieces maximum;
• flowering - in amaryllis, flowers bloom in autumn, and in hippeastrum - in spring and summer;
• peduncle - the hippeastrum has a hollow arrow.

So the amaryllis flower represents failure beautifully flowering plant requiring minimal but proper care. Fulfillment of all requirements for the content of culture at home will allow the grower to get a healthy plant with beautiful large inflorescences of marvelous beauty.

plant care guide

Once every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during the dormant period - about 15 During flowering - when the topsoil dries out, do not water during the dormant period Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poison juice, observance of periods of growth and dormancy

Lighting

During growth, the plant prefers bright diffused light; in summer, direct sunlight is allowed only from 11:00 to 15:00.

For normal development, amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight.. During dormancy, amaryllis bulbs do not need light.

The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On the south window, amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.

During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly rotated so that the peduncle does not bend.

Temperature

Temperature regime during active growth:

• Daytime 20–22°C;
• At night not less than 18°C.

During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place.. The optimum temperature will be around 15 ° C, the minimum 10 ° C, and the maximum 18 ° C. At low temperatures, the bulb may die, and at high temperatures, it will germinate too quickly, preventing the plant from fully resting.

In summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since the differences in day and night temperatures in middle lane are significant. This plant does not like a sharp decrease or increase in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.

For this flower, a dormant period is necessary. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and release a peduncle in spring, it can be kept at room temperature 20-22ºС, but in relative dryness. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.

Watering

During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Frequency of watering - the top layer of soil between watering should dry slightly. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature.. It is important that water does not get on the bulbs.

When flowering is over, watering is reduced, and after 2 months it is completely stopped.

During this time, the amaryllis loses its leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.

After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), They switch to normal watering, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.

If the air in the room is too dry, it is allowed to spray the buds a little. It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, as well as bulbs during the dormant period.

The soil

For amaryllis, a soil consisting of soddy land (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part) is suitable. Soil acidity should be pH 6.0-6.5.

You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are its ingredients:

• Sod land - 2 parts;
• Leaf land - 2 parts;
• Humus - 1 part;
• Peat - 1 part;
• Washed river sand - 1 part.

Sand can be replaced with baking powder such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified composition of the soil will ensure the outflow of excess water into the pan during irrigation.

Also, in order to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is essential to prevent root and bulb rot.

Light and loose soil, slightly acidic or with neutral acidity, is suitable for amaryllis. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. They are easiest to purchase at flower shops or garden centers.

Fertilizer

During active growth and flowering, top dressing is carried out 1 time in 10 days. To do this, use a complex liquid fertilizer suitable for flowering plants.

At the end of flowering, top dressing is reduced, and after the leaves wither, they stop completely.. Fertilization is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.

Fertilize the soil for amaryllis begins when flower stalks appear from the bulb in spring. Use liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants or special formulations for bulbous plants.

It is important not to overfeed the plants after the formation of leaves and the end of flowering. This species grows leaves after the formation of the peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizers for flowering plants, never using formulations for deciduous varieties. This allows you to maximize flowering and reduce the rate of leaf growth.

Humidity

Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so it is not necessary to spray it.

The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or higher, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.

For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to wipe the leaves regularly or wash them in the shower.

Peculiarities

For the normal development and abundant flowering of amaryllis, it is required to follow special rules for care during the period of growth and dormancy. Also, amaryllis is a poisonous plant and you need to work with it only with gloves.

Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous houseplant. Do not allow juice to come into contact with skin or food. But do not rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, it is enough just to follow the precautions.

Periods of growth and dormancy

Consider how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as a regular houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.

After flowering amaryllis, you need to remove the flower stalks. The leaves do not need to be touched - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.

In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to provide a dormant period.. To do this, from August you need to reduce watering and stop feeding. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. At the same time, the leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they should be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.

In September-early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and cleaned in a dark, dry and cool (13–15 ° C) place. The dormant period will begin when there is not a single green leaf left on the plant and will last 6–8 weeks.

Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and they begin to water it regularly. From this moment, the period of growth begins again.

Keep the soil moist before and after flowering and rotate the plant constantly for even growth. During this period, the optimum temperature will be 13-18 ° C. 4-8 weeks after the resumption of watering, the amaryllis should bloom.

amaryllis bloom

The flowering period of amaryllis falls at the end of autumn or the beginning of winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which an inflorescence is located. Usually during flowering, the leaves of the plant are absent. Sometimes 1 pair of leaves grows together with the peduncle.

With optimal care, amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without harming the plant. For this, adult specimens are suitable, with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm. They will bloom in the summer, subject to regular feeding in the spring.

To induce natural flowering of amaryllis in the summer, you need to create an additional dormant period for it. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded one, away from the window.

Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After a 2-week stay in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.

After the formation of the peduncle, the plant begins to be watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.

Diseases

Amaryllis can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold. Signs of infection: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or a grayish velvety coating on leaves.

As a rule, too humid air and waterlogging of the soil lead to the disease.

The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so a diseased plant must be transplanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.

The plant can be infested with thrips or aphids. Signs: leaves turn yellow and deform.

Small reddish spots may appear when infested with mites. In pest control, insecticide treatment, which must be carried out several times, will help.

Problems

• Flowers turn pale. Reason: direct sunlight;
• The flowers darken or even turn black. Cause: damp air and low room temperature;
• The leaves turn pale and the flowers wilt. Reason: insufficient watering;
• The leaves are turning yellow. Causes: defeat by thrips or aphids, waterlogging of the soil;
• Bulbs shrink. Reasons: a large number of children, lack of lighting, abundant flowering;
• The plant does not bloom. Reasons: improper care, too short dormancy period or lack of it, deep planting of the bulb, damage to the root system. The bulb does not have enough strength to release a peduncle with a lack of heat, light, fertile soil, drainage and sufficient watering. During the dormant period, the bulb accumulates strength for flowering.

reproduction

Amaryllis can be propagated by babies separated from the mother bulb and seeds. Before you transplant amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.

Branch of daughter bulbs

This is the easiest and most common way. Overgrown children are separated from the mother plant during the spring transplant.

First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.

At the same time, the composition of the soil, the height of the planting of the bulb, the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow quickly and bloom for 2-3 years.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, laborious and unreliable way. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another with a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.

Shoots should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one at a time in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seeds bloom only for 7 years.

Transfer

Amaryllis is a perennial, so there is no need to repot it every year. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb must not be covered above the previous soil level.

Usually amaryllis is transplanted every 2-4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother's bulb for reproduction.

The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering has ended.

This is due to the fact that the bulb during flowering greatly decreases in size due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.

When transplanting, the pot is selected with a diameter equal to the bulb plus 1.5–2.0 cm from all sides- in cramped containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.

Dried and withered outer scales are removed from the faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and children with roots are separated.

If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be transplanted. Roots will grow in 4-6 weeks. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground by half or 2/3 of its height.

Description of the plant and species

Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.

The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.

More recently, the Amaryllis Belladonna species was considered the only one of its kind. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicola.

amaryllis belladonna- a very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Thanks to compact size and flowers of amazing beauty, this species is common in the collections of lovers of flowering plants almost everywhere. Wild flowers are pink, red and even purple.

This species gave rise to many varieties that differ in unusual color, size of flowers and shape of petals. There are large-flowered, variegated varieties and varieties with narrow petals. Here are some popular varieties of amaryllis:

• "Exotica" - large-flowered variety;
• "Minerva" - a variety with variegated striped petals;
• "Exotic Star" - narrow-petal variety.

Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in a large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and a pleasant aroma. In indoor floriculture is not common.

Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.

When and whether to cut the leaves and roots of the bulb? What are the storage conditions and when will it be ready to bloom again? Who is in the know?

After flowering, remove only flower stalks. Be sure to leave the leaves, feed a couple of times, because the bulb has spent a lot of energy on flowering. Then start reducing watering so that the leaves die off. But not everyone has a period of rest. My amaryllis, bought last winter, flourished splendidly last year, giving out three arrows, tried all summer to lull him, did not want to. He gave birth to three children and now he is again standing in two arrows with flowers.

Tell me what to do with amaryllis in the fall.

Pay attention to the bulb, if it becomes exhausted after flowering, becomes loose, try to make it rest anyway. And yet, do not plant the bulb in a large pot, in which case it will definitely not bloom. Good luck.

You don't need to cut the roots. And the leaves should ideally dry out on their own. While they are green, nutrients enter the bulb from them. Stop watering and put in a cool place. No need to dig out of the pot

Rest period: The stem is cut only when it is completely dry. Gradually reduce watering, then stop watering altogether. A pot with an onion is placed in a dark, cool place indoors. The dormant period should last 6-8 weeks between February. Then the bulb can be removed from the pot, the "children" are separated and the mother plant is transplanted.

after it has faded, it is necessary first of all to build up a good stem, like min 4 pairs of leaves, before sending it to rest, otherwise you won’t see a trace of flowering, the roots do not cut off healthy, but rather take care of when transplanting

You probably don't have amaryllis. Most likely, this is a hippeastrum hybrid. After flowering, it has a growth period. It is necessary to transplant the plant into a larger pot, water and feed regularly. For the summer it is better to land in open ground. The rest period begins in September-October.

If you forcibly send the bulb to rest, then you can forget about flowering for several years.

water less often leaves will begin to die back by spring increase watering and feed

you don’t need to cut the leaves ... now the bulb needs top dressing - the forces for flowering have been spent ... let the leaves grow, and put them to bed in the fall ...

Hello everyone! Amaryllis flower care at home with photos and videos in this material. Amaryllis - with which every experienced grower is familiar. Popularity is due to beautiful flowers. In addition, the plant is unpretentious, despite its origin.

What you will learn from this article:

Amaryllis home care with photos and videos

There is nothing complicated in caring for amaryllis at home. Even beginners can handle it. Therefore, if you want to regularly admire a flowering plant without spending a lot of time and effort on care, amaryllis is the most suitable option.

History and description of the flower

Amaryllis is one of the genera in the Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). For a long time it was believed that the genus has only one representative - Amaryllis belladonna (Amaryllis belladonna). But at present, botanists distinguish several more representatives, such as Amaryllis paradisicola and Amaryllis sarniensis and.

The homeland of Amaryllis belladonna is the African south, more precisely the valley of the Olifants River in the Cape Province of South Africa. The geography of distribution of new species is very extensive - South Africa, Australia, Japan and even the island of Jersey in the English Channel.

The genus was first identified by the Swedish systematizer Carl Linnaeus in 1753. He gave the flower its name. Up to this point, it was believed that amaryllis is a type of lily. It was known as Lilionarcissus. But Linnaeus made the mistake of referring to the amaryllis and all kinds of hippeastrum varieties. The confusion continues to this day.

The flower owes its name to the work of Virgil. In his poems there is a beautiful shepherdess named Amaryllis or Amaryllis. Translated from Greek, this name means "sparkling."

Amaryllis is often called the March or Jersey lily.

Amaryllis is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are dark green, smooth, long and narrow, somewhat reminiscent of a belt. Placed in two rows.

Before flowering, the plant throws out a special peduncle - a hollow "tube" 40–60 cm high (maximum 2–3 pieces). Only then do the leaves appear. In nature, this occurs in late summer or early autumn. Flowers, depending on the variety, there are from 2 to 12 pieces on each peduncle. The whole inflorescence looks like an umbrella.

Wild-growing amaryllis is characterized by all shades of pink and reddish, as well as white. By selection, purple, orange, yellow, greenish flowers and combined variants are bred. By appearance an amaryllis flower is a cross between a lily and a gramophone bell with a diameter of 10–12 cm.

The amaryllis bulb is poisonous - it contains the alkaloid lycorine. On sensitive skin, irritation can occur even from a simple touch to the bulb. Therefore, before planting and transplanting, do not forget to wear rubber gloves, and wash your hands thoroughly at the end of the procedure. Also, take care to keep the flower out of the reach of children and pets.

Amaryllis varieties

Modern varieties of amaryllis, which can be freely purchased in stores, are the result of selection. The bulb of Amaryllis belladonna is a real rarity, the dream of all experienced flower growers.

The efforts of breeders are aimed at the following:

• Bring out as large as possible double and non-double flowers. The most beautiful double hybrids include Celica, Snow Queen, Pink Nymph, Macarena, Promise, Merry Christmas. Non-double varieties are no less spectacular - Black Pearl, Benfica, Exotic, Moonlight, Lemon-Lime, Matterhorn, Rosalie.
• Find new shades and their combinations. Charisma, Clown, Prelude, Neon, Estella, Santa Cruz and many others look amazing.
• Creation of flowers of new forms. The latest trend is amaryllis with very narrow petals, the edges of which are slightly corrugated. These varieties include Lima, Night Star, La Paz, Evergreen, Santana.

But the classic varieties of amaryllis are no less popular than fashionable novelties. You can highlight Durban (carmine flowers with a white center), Parker (purple-pink with yellow center), Pink magnificent (pink-white petals), Hathor (snow-white with a yellowish center), Maxima (hot pink, with a great aroma).

Classic varieties of amaryllis in the photo

Durban is an extremely common variety

Maxima has an amazing aroma

Parker has an unusually beautiful pink color.

Almost snow-white flowers of Hathor will fit into any interior

Amaryllis and hippeastrum - eternal confusion

Hippeastrum, like Amaryllis, belongs to the Amaryllis family. But the hippeastrum genus is much more numerous - only in nature there are about 90 species. And if you add breeding varieties, you get about two thousand. Often, even sellers of specialized stores are confused in these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum - table

Amaryllis
Hippeastrum
flowering period
End of August and beginning of September.
End of February and beginning of March.
Motherland
Africa.
South America.
Aroma
Strongly expressed.
Practically absent.
flower diameter
10–12 cm.
6–8 cm.
Number of colors
Up to 12 pieces. In most cases 4-6.
Maximum 6 flowers. Most often 2-4.
Coloring of natural varieties
Shades of pink - from almost white to almost red.
Red, orange, pink, white, yellow, greenish, purple and various combinations thereof.
Leaves in bloom
None. Appear after the peduncle.
They stay in place.
Peduncle
Quite dense and without voids. Slightly purple tint.
Hollow tube. It cracks easily when pressed. The green color is mixed with a grayish-brown tint.
Peduncle length
40–60 cm.
60–70 cm.
bulb shape
Pear-shaped.
Round or slightly elongated at the bottom, slightly flattened on the sides.
Scales
Ash-gray, with a slight "fringe" along the upper edge.
Very reminiscent of an ordinary onion, only white or greenish in color.

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

Suitable conditions for growing amaryllis at home differ markedly depending on whether the plant is in an active growth phase or a dormant period has begun.

It should be noted right away that amaryllis will not tolerate even a temperature close to zero, and even more so - minus. Conditions that mimic the tropics and subtropics do not suit him either - constant humid heat.

Suitable conditions for a plant depending on the phase of development - table

Conditions
growth phase
rest period
Pot location
Window facing southwest or southeast. A south window will also work, but you will have to cover the plant from direct sunlight during the day so that the leaves do not turn pale and fade.
Dark and cool place with constant temperature and good ventilation.
Lighting
Ideally, bright but diffused light is needed for 14-16 hours a day. The leaves, and especially the arrow-peduncle, tend to reach for the sun, so they will periodically have to be returned to a vertical position by turning the pot. Or you can make props for the plant.
Not required.
Humidity
The plant is moisture-loving. For watering, use settled for 6-8 hours at room temperature. The earth should not dry out, but you should not overfill the flower either. He needs more water only during the flowering period. Stagnation of moisture leads to the fact that the leaves wither and lose color, the roots rot. Spraying the leaves on the flower has almost no effect. But before flowering, you can slightly moisten the buds. Maintain air humidity at 60-80%.
Watering is completely excluded. Only soil spraying is carried out. Watering begins again only when the new peduncle grows to 10–12 cm. The optimum humidity at the storage location is 60–70%, without sudden changes.
Ventilation
The room should be well ventilated, but avoid strong drafts.
Temperature
Approximately 22-24ºС during the day and about 18ºС at night. The plant does not like sudden changes in temperature.
Constant temperature 10–12ºС.

Planting a flower at home

Pot selection

Amaryllis needs a small but stable pot

Planting amaryllis begins with the choice of a pot - it must be massive and stable enough. The flower is rather unstable due to the widely spread rosette of leaves and high peduncle. It is easy to overturn it with one careless movement, and sometimes a sharp gust of wind is enough.

The diameter of the pot depends on the size of the bulb. She should take almost everything inner space. No more than 3–5 cm remains between the walls and the bulb. However, the deeper the pot, the better, because amaryllis has a rather well-developed root system. The best option is a pot wide at the bottom and tapering upwards.

With regard to the material from which the pot is made, the best choice- unglazed ceramics. This capacity provides ventilation and oxygen supply to the roots.

Soil selection

If you are planting several amaryllis in one large container, the distance between the bulbs is at least 10 cm.

The next important issue is soil. You can buy any soil intended for bulbs in a specialized store, but experienced flower growers prefer to prepare the mixture on their own. Any soil is pre-sterilized by pouring boiling water over it or placing it in a freezer.

A self-made one might look like this:

A drainage layer of at least 2-3 cm thick is required. Use expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, brick chips or small ceramic shards. Scatter them, in a slightly smaller amount, over the surface of the soil after planting. It is good if a large drainage hole is made in the bottom.

Cover the drainage layer with the same layer of sand. This is an additional protection against stagnant water and subsequent rotting of the roots.

Step by step process

Select only healthy specimens for planting

For planting, strong, smooth bulbs with developed roots are selected. There should be no dents, cracks, scratches, stains, signs of mold and rot. Also, do not plant bulbs that spread an unpleasant sweetish smell.

Landing master class - video

Plant transplant

Plants are transplanted at the end of the flowering period, when the peduncle is completely dry. No need for an annual transplant - ohis carried out at intervals of 3-4 years. Or earlier, if you see that the pot of the bulb has become clearly small.

However, it is advisable to remove a layer of soil 3-4 cm thick every year and add fresh soil to the previous level.

• 4-5 days before the planned transplant, daily abundant watering is carried out.
• Then the plant is removed from the pot along with a clod of earth, gently shaken off and the roots are examined. All rotten and dried are cut with a sharp knife, the cut is sprinkled with ash or crushed activated charcoal.
• The bulb is cleaned of rotten scales, the daughter bulbs are carefully separated and also cleaned. They then need to be seated in separate pots. Very small daughter bulbs (several mm in diameter) can be left if you want to breed this particular variety. But it is likely that the amaryllis will not bloom - all the nutrition will go to the embryos.

Before planting an old bulb in a new pot, feed the plant by sticking 2-3 sticks of a long-acting mineral fertilizer (the most common option is Agricola) into the soil under the roots.

plant care

Watering and feeding

Water amaryllis in the growth phase should be moderate. Watering begins when the peduncle grows to 10 cm tall. The plant loves moisture, but categorically does not tolerate stagnant water. It is better to forget about watering than to overdo it. The best option is abundant watering every 3-4 days. Another important point- Water should not fall directly on the bulb. Water only the surrounding soil.

During wintering, the plant needs much less water. Spray the soil every 7-10 days.

Top dressing of amaryllis is carried out every 12–14 days, starting from the moment the buds form. During flowering, the interval between dressings is reduced to 5-7 days. Suitable for any fertilizer for flowering indoor plants- Emerald, BIO VITA, Bona Forte, Kemira Lux, Ideal, Agricola, Ava, Living World, Rainbow, Reasil, Florist, Bud, Master Color, Power of Life. Give preference to those products where there is more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen.

You can also use natural organic fertilizers - a solution of fresh manure (1.5 cups per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings (1/3 cup per 10 liters).

Stop feeding when the leaves are completely withered. At rest, the plant is not fed.

Amaryllis care - video

flowering period

In nature, amaryllis blooms in late summer or early autumn. But you can make flowers appear by certain moment, for this you need to change the date of planting bulbs. If they are healthy and well developed, intensive growth begins immediately after disembarkation. After 7-8 weeks, flower stalks will form. If there are more than two, it is better to cut off the excess at the base. Abundant flowering will deplete the bulb too much.

After the first flower blooms, the peduncle can be safely placed in a vase. If you change the water in it daily, the flowers will last 16-20 days. The uncut peduncle blooms about the same amount, but in the first case, the bulb is depleted much less. The flowering period will be maximum if both the vase and the pot are removed in a cool place, protected from sunlight.

How to make amaryllis bloom

Only proper care of the plant will allow you to enjoy its beautiful flowers.

Why isn't amaryllis blooming? Most often for one of the following reasons:

• Too big pot. The bulb spends all its energy on the formation of "children". Therefore, she rightly believes that there is no need to propagate also by seeds.
• Too much deepening of the bulb in the ground. This prevents the normal development of the peduncle.
• Nutrient deficiencies. The bulb during flowering is greatly depleted. If you have not accumulated enough essential micronutrients during the previous growth phase, do not wait for flowers.
• Lack of lighting and heat. Amaryllis is extremely warm and photophilous. This is logical, given where his homeland is. Fluorescent lamps can partially overcome the problem.
• Many roots are rotten or dry. In this case root system unable to provide the bulb with proper nutrition, even if the soil contains the necessary substances.
• Missed rest period. After the flowers and peduncle dried up, the plant was not allowed to rest.
• Bulbs too young. Do not expect that only transplanted babies will immediately begin to bloom. This will happen in 3-4 years. And if you planted seeds, flowers will appear in 7-8 years.
• Damage to the bulb by pests.

Having determined which negative factor interferes with your plant, eliminate it.

Rest period - how to "wake up" the plant after wintering

The dormant period begins only after the last leaf turns yellow, and lasts at least 8–10 weeks. It is better to let the plants rest for about three months.

• When the flowers begin to wither, watering and fertilizing are reduced. By the time the peduncle dries completely (in late October or early November), they are reduced to zero.
• Dried leaves are removed. But you should not forcibly cut off the entire “crown” - the nutrients from the leaves will pass into the bulb.
• Then the pot is placed in a cool dry dark place. Since the roots are preserved, once every 1.5 weeks the soil is sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

A less common option is for the bulbs to be dug up, cleaned and put away for storage in cardboard boxes or wooden boxes. In this case, there is a risk of drying out the roots.

With a little trick, you can get Amaryllis to bloom twice a year - on time, and also in late winter or early spring. But it is important to maintain a dormant period so that the bulb has accumulated enough strength for future flowering. Let her rest at least until the beginning of January.

Approximately 2.5 months before the desired date, remove the pots with bulbs that are in the dormant period, rearrange them in a bright and warm room and water a little. Keep the soil slightly moist. This is enough to start the phase of active growth.

Diseases and pests

With proper care and a sufficiently long dormant period, amaryllis rarely suffers from diseases and pests. But if this does happen, you need to be able to recognize the symptoms in time and deal with the problem.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis - table

Disease or pest
Symptoms
Treatment
Red burn (stagonosporosis)
Small red spots on the bulb or a border of the same color along the upper edge of the scales.
Hold the bulb for 1.5–2 hours in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Lubricate the largest spots with brilliant green. After 5-7 days, you can plant again.
Rot and mold
Red-gray spots on the surface of the bulb. It becomes soft to the touch, spreads an unpleasant sweet smell. Reddish-brown spots and stripes appear on the leaves.
Cut off affected leaves at the base. Treat the bulb from a spray bottle with a 0.05% solution of Bordeaux mixture (5 ml per liter of water) or XOM and Fundazol preparations, diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions.
spider mite
The leaves seem to be covered with cobwebs. Then they wither and dry.
Spray with acaricides such as Floromite, Neoron, Nisoran.
onion mite
Eats bulb tissue. The plant develops poorly, practically does not bloom. If flowers appear, then deformed. Leaves turn yellow and die quickly.
Remove the bulbs from the pot and lower them for 5-7 minutes in water heated to a temperature of 35-40ºС. Then carry out the treatment with Keltan and Rogor preparations. A radical option is to place the onion in a hermetically sealed container and set fire to a tiny piece of sulfuric checker in it. Wait 2 hours, open the container. Leave the bulb in the fresh air for a day.
thrips
Tiny brown dots on the leaves in large numbers.
Collect all visible pests, wash the plant, transplant into a disinfected pot with sterilized soil. Carry out treatment with Agravertin,.
Mealybug
Deposits on the leaves and at the roots, resembling small spools of cotton wool, as well as a continuous layer of down, glued with whitish mucus, under the leaves.
Wipe the leaves with a damp sponge clean water. If it does not help, apply insecticides (Admiral, Iskra, Fitoverm).
amaryllis mealybug
His feces appear under the scales, damaging the bulb. They look like soot.
Apply the above insecticides.
Shchitovka
Dense scales on inside leaves. The color varies from light beige to chocolate brown. Next to them - sticky discharge, similar to sugar syrup.
Wipe the leaves with foam obtained from laundry soap shavings whipped in warm water.
Aphid
The leaves turn yellow.
Collect visible pests by hand. Wipe the leaves with green potash soap foam or 20% ethyl alcohol.
Springtail
Small translucent worms are visible on the surface of the soil.
Reduce watering. Remove a layer of soil 3–4 cm thick and replace with a new one.

The most common pests and symptoms of diseases - photo gallery

This is how rot appears on the leaves

Bulbs affected by stagnosporosis

The onion mite is extremely difficult to detect until the bulb has suffered significant damage.

The mealybug is one of the most common pests.

The springtail is quite easy to see, but difficult to get rid of.

Spider mite entwines leaves

Reproduction of amaryllis

There are three possible ways to propagate amaryllis - by seeds, by dividing the bulb, and by children (daughter bulbs).

Seed use

The results will take a long time to come. The plants obtained in this way do not retain varietal characteristics and bloom 7–8 years after planting, but such bulbs age more slowly. With proper care, they will grow with you for more than 20 years.

• To obtain seeds, the pistil is pollinated with pollen from the stamens of another amaryllis using a soft bristled brush. A "box" is formed on the peduncle. When it cracks, the seeds are fully ripe. The whole process usually takes about a month.
• Seeds are planted almost immediately. With each lost day, germination decreases. The soil in the pot should be well moistened.
• Then the seed container is cleaned in a warm place, covering it from direct sunlight.
• Shoots will appear in about 25-30 days. After another 2-3 months, they are seated in separate pots.

Video: planting amaryllis seeds

dividing the bulb

The method is extremely risky - the probability of destroying the plant is very high.

• A healthy onion is cut into 4-8 parts with a sharp knife. The main thing is that on each of them a part of the bottom and 1-2 scales are preserved. Slices are sprinkled with ash or crushed activated carbon.
• Then the pieces are planted in the sand and kept warm for a month at a temperature of 25–27 ºС.
• After this time, the first sheet should appear. When another one grows, the plants are planted in the soil for bulbs, mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1.

Reproduction by daughter bulbs

The easiest and safest way. And you won’t have to wait long for flowers - amaryllis will get stronger enough in 2-3 years. The process of planting daughter bulbs is practically the same as planting a new bulb purchased in a store. The only difference is that the pot should be a little bigger. Daughter bulbs grow rapidly and reach the size of the mother in just 2 years.

• Bulbs should be carefully separated from the mother plant, placed in a prepared pot with drained soil, bottom down, slightly pressed into the ground and topped up with soil so that the bulb sticks out halfway above the surface.
• Next, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. New plants definitely need light and warmth.
• But they do not need a dormant period. Therefore, watering and fertilizing are carried out regularly. For the first time, amaryllis will rest only after flowering.

Amaryllis is an exotic that you can very well have at home. Subject to simple care rules, he will constantly delight you with beautiful flowers.

Good evening, dear gardeners and lovers of indoor plants. Two weeks ago I was at the market, accidentally met my grandfather, he was selling some incomprehensible bulbs with leaves and earth in a package. She asked what kind of plant), he replied that he did not know, but it was very beautiful. Said he dug it out of his garden. Well, I bought two onions for one buck. I planted it in my garden, outdoors. In less than two weeks, the flowers bloomed. It turned out to be amaryllis. And here's the bad luck ... I always thought that this was a houseplant, my grandmother had one in a pot all her life, but very, very rarely bloomed. I started searching the internet for information. Maybe some of you will find it useful too?

I add later: in the comments they wrote that this is not amaryllis, but hipperastrum (I don’t even know))) rejoice or how)))

This flower has been familiar to me since childhood. Out of habit, we call him amaryllis, although this is the most common non-varietal hipperastrum. We do not part with him, this is our family heirloom. I am sure that it can be found in many other collections.

Amaryllis is a bulbous plant that blooms very beautifully. Its fragrant and large flowers can be different: white, red, pink, have a striped or plain color. On a high peduncle, inflorescences are located singly or in several pieces. The flowers are very beautiful, but small and do not smell at all. All he needs is a bright placement, he grows well on the windows of the east, south, west orientation. It is important for him to receive sufficient sunlight, in such conditions this hyperstrum blooms actively and does not get sick with a red burn of the bulb. Watering is moderate, between waterings the top layer of the earthy coma is allowed to dry.

Transplantation is carried out in the spring, in a mixture for amaryllis. This variety is well planted in groups of several pieces per pot, then flowering will be very long. For planting, you should not choose too spacious dishes - then the plant gives a lot of babies and blooms poorly.

Question: Is it possible to grow amaryllis on garden plot in open ground?

Answer: In summer, amaryllis can be kept outdoors in a flowerpot, tub. You can land on the site, taking it out of the pot, or you can dig right in the pot. True, in the fall it will be necessary to change the soil, since over the summer all living creatures that are undesirable for potted plant when kept in winter, because in the absence of other food, she will begin to eat the roots and the bulb itself. Yes, and injuring the roots with a transplant once again is not worth it, otherwise the flowering will be postponed indefinitely. Wintering in the open field, even with shelter, amaryllis cannot.

Question: Why do the leaves dry up? And to replace them, new ones grow right there ...

(For the short period of its existence, this is the second time this has happened to me.)

Answer: So this is a normal plant development cycle, whether it is a house plant or growing outside! After all, you are not surprised at the annual autumn leaf fall, so why is there such a reaction to the change of leaves in indoor plants? The leaves of plants are not eternal, new ones grow to replace the old ones.

If the conditions are not suitable for a houseplant, this process may take place faster and more often than necessary, and may become irreversible. Then the plant dies. Don't bring it up :-)

Question: The bulb has no roots. How to root it?

Answer: Take ordinary soil from the site or buy Universal soil, freeze for 6-8 hours, warm the soil to room temperature (+20-25°C), add Kornevin to stimulate root growth. Sprinkle coarse-grained calcined sand with a layer of 3-5 cm at the bottom of the hole. Powder the bottom of the bulb with Kornevin, plant it.

The height of the pot should be greater than its diameter, and the distance from the edge of the pot to the bulb should be 2-3 cm. Be sure to put drainage on the bottom of the pot, the pot must have a drainage hole. Do not bury the bulb; it should protrude a third of the soil surface. Water moderately, do not overmoisten the soil, otherwise the bulb will rot instead of rooting.

Question: How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Answer: Amaryllis from hippeastrum can be easily distinguished by the structure of the peduncle - in hippeastrum it is hollow (empty inside) and bears 1-6 large flowers, and in amaryllis the peduncle is made (filled from the inside) and bears 8-12 large, drooping flowers . This is the surest distinguishing feature.

Leaves are formed after the exit of the flower arrow or at the same time, but not before.
One more distinguishing feature- hippeastrum, unlike amaryllis, forms daughter bulbs irregularly.

Question: My bulb has lost a lot of weight after flowering. How can you help her regain her volume?

Answer: The amaryllis bulb will be able to "gain weight" only in the next growing season, if you do not let it bloom, remove the flower arrow. And in the fall, do not cut off the green leaves, but wait until they turn yellow and give back the food spent on them to the bulb. Don't forget to feed during the season.

In the garden, amaryllis is best suited for a well-lit place, such as an unshaded south side, as these plants are light-loving and thermophilic. The soil should be of light mechanical composition, that is, sandy or sandy loam, rich in humus with a high content of humus is also well suited. Amaryllis prefers open, well-lit places, direct sunlight. Amaryllis is afraid of frost, so for the winter the bulbs need to be dug up and stored indoors, planted again with the onset of steady heat. Amaryllis feels great in a well-lit place, loves a lot of light and really dislikes coolness with drafts. Amaryllis can also grow in light partial shade, but then the growth of the plant slows down.

Reproduction: amaryllis is propagated by regrown daughter bulbs - babies, which can be separated from the mother during a spring transplant. Already in the 2-3rd year, flowers appear from the daughter bulbs. If you want to have a lot of flowering arrows in one flower pot, the way out is simple - do not separate the children from the mother.

Top dressing:

• spring-summer - 1 time in 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers;
• winter-autumn - without top dressing.

Pruning: not needed.

Features of care: The plant is poisonous!

Transplantation: Amaryllis is usually planted in small flower pots in November-December. But with the same success, you can land in March-February. At the bottom of the pot, organize drainage from broken shards and only after that pour in the earth mixture consisting of sod, leaf, peat soil and sand (1:2:1:1). Before planting, it is very useful to soak the bulb in Humisol's solution, and then plant it in a pot, burying it halfway into the ground. The pot is best placed on the windowsill of a southeast or southwest window, since amaryllis is a light-loving plant. And do not forget to water the planted bulb.

Small bulbs are planted together. Feed once every two weeks. After the leaves have dried, watering is almost stopped. Withered leaves are not pruned. Amaryllis is transplanted every 4-5 years.

There is nothing easier than growing amaryllis: all you need is a bulb, water and sunlight.

Bulbs practically do not have a dormant period. After the plant has faded, there is no need to do anything with the vegetative part and the bulbs. Simply remove the flower stalks without affecting the leaves, as they will replenish the nutrient reserves in the bulb. After flowering, the bulb should be grown within 5-6 months.

As a houseplant, amaryllis is grown until early summer, while regular watering should not be forgotten, and standard fertilizers should be used as top dressing. When the danger of frost has passed, the plant can be transplanted outside to a dark place.

To get amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs must go through a dormant period.
In August, you can stop feeding and gradually reduce the amount of water given. Stop watering completely after three weeks. Let the leaves turn yellow and wither on their own. Cut the leaves at a height of 5 centimeters from the bulb.

In September or early October, plant the bulbs in a pot and place in a cool (13-15°C), dark and dry place for 6-8 weeks. As long as at least one green leaf remains on the plant, it does not have a dormant period. It is enough to put a pot of bulbs in the basement and forget about it for 2 months.

In November or later, place the pot of amaryllis in a sunny area, water it, and the vegetative cycle will begin over again.

The soil should be damp, but by no means wet. Once flowering begins, do not let the soil dry out too much. Remember to turn the pot daily to keep the leaves growing evenly. The ideal temperature is 13-18°C. Higher temperatures weaken growth. Be careful: flowering should begin 4-8 weeks after the resumption of watering the bulbs.

Possible reasons for the lack of flowering: Immature or small bulbs, too short dormancy period, very high temperatures during the growing season. It should be noted that the longer you have a bulb and the larger its size, the more flowers and leaves it produces, so it makes sense to store and use them from year to year.

reproduction

All bulbs: hippeastrum, amaryllis, lilies, tulips and others, reproduce by daughter bulbs, which are separated from the mother plant during transplantation. This is the easiest way to propagate these plants. Planting daughter bulbs is no different from planting a mother plant during transplantation: the same composition of the earth and the height of planting the bulb. The pot must be taken at the rate of an adult bulb. Young plants grow quickly and reach the size of the mother bulb in two years, and amaryllis often do not need to be repotted.

The second way to propagate amaryllis is by seeds. To obtain seeds, amaryllis flowers must be cross-pollinated with a brush and allowed to mature. The seed ripening process lasts about a month, after which they are immediately planted in the ground and watered well so that the ground is moist. Seedlings will appear in about a month. When the plants grow up, they are planted one by one in small pots.

When propagated by daughter bulbs, a flowering plant can be obtained in the third year, when grown from seeds, amarylis blooms in the 7th year.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out after the end of flowering and the drying of the flower arrow. Land for planting is made up of equal parts of leafy, soddy, humus soil and sand, or bought at a store for bulbous plants. The bulb, which was taken out of the old pot, is freed from rotten roots and dry scales, from children that form in the axils of the outer scales of the mother plant. The bulb prepared in this way is planted one at a time in a pot so that it is at least 1/3 of the height of the bulb on the surface. Can be left on the surface up to half the height of the bulb. There must be a layer of drainage in the pot, and it is advisable to pour a layer of sand under the bottom of the bulb. Amaryllis does not tolerate stagnant water. It is much safer to forget to water this flower than to flood it. The pot should not be too big. From the edge of the bulb to the edge of the pot, it is enough to have about 3 cm of free space.

Pests and diseases

Sometimes amaryllis can be affected by a fungal infection: red spots or stripes appear on the stem, flowers and bulbs. To prevent this disease, it is recommended to wet the plant as little as possible when watering. If the amaryllis is still sick, you can use special preparations: Bordeaux mixture, HOM or foundationol.

So where is the best place to plant amaryllis?

The first option is open ground. The best place for amaryllis, choose somewhere in a sunny place, among the stones. Amaryllis looks very beautiful against the background of undersized conifers.
The "minus" of such a landing is a strong dependence on weather conditions. In the case of late spring and early autumn frosts, the heat-loving amaryllis will have to be carefully covered. Yes, and it will be necessary to dig out its bulbs in the fall no later than the end of September (after all, in October the top layer of soil in the middle lane is already starting to freeze slightly). And if your amaryllis just bloomed in September, then the bulb simply will not have time to ripen normally before digging.
The “plus” of planting amaryllis in the open field is an amazing sight, when, against the background of falling leaves and autumn flowers, such a miracle suddenly appears from under the ground!

Option two is to plant the amaryllis in a pot or any other container. You can install it on the balcony or directly on the flower bed.
By the way, wherever you plant amaryllis, remember that you need to plant its bulb quite small. The top of the amaryllis bulb should be barely visible above the soil surface (if you are growing amaryllis in a pot), or should be sprinkled with a very thin layer of soil (if you are planting amaryllis in open ground).
For the winter, amaryllis bulbs are best removed to the bottom shelf of the refrigerator (along with gladioli); they are stored well and by the spring almost do not dry out.

In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering amaryllis natural way leaves dry up. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a dormant period, amaryllis and hippeastrums begin to grow leaves again, and the peduncle and buds are laid.

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Preparing amaryllis for a dormant period

The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. In hippeastrums, a dormant period occurs after the plant has faded, because hippeastrums can be driven out at any time of the year, and not just at the end of summer or early autumn. Early forcing in the fall or late is possible - then the hippeastrum blooms at the end of winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.

But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a dormant period. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The remaining varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum for the summer in the ground, then you need to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

Leaves are a source of nutrients

However, the bulb after the flowering of amaryllis is not dug immediately, you must first allow the leaves to do an important job - to supply the bulb with nutrients.

In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and allow it to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, while giving all the strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. When the leaves turn completely yellow and die off, the plant will go dormant on its own.

Wintering of amaryllis and hippeastrums

The main dormant period for amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted in open ground for the summer, then after flowering, amaryllis must be dug up and transplanted into a pot even before frost.

Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to transplant these flowers every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily endure frost, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.

But if you decide to take the hippeastrum into the house for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature in the range of 10-18 ° C.

Temperature conditions for amaryllis (hippeastrum)

At rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is around 15°C, but a temperature of 10°C is also considered acceptable, and the upper figure is 18°C. If it is cooler, the bulb may get sick, and if it drops below 5 ° C, it may die.

Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5 ° C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. Higher temperatures than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.

This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, namely, complete rest guarantees the laying of a healthy flower arrow.

During dormancy, you only need to water the bulb so that it does not dry out - once a month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into the pan so that in conditions of cool air and excess water, the bulb does not rot.

You will know that the recovery period is over when the flower arrow appears at the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and top dressing should be started only after this arrow stretches to 10 cm. From this moment, a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.

In the conditions of a rather cold Russian climate, amaryllis blooming in winter is one of the favorite indoor plants. Its modern varieties come in a wide variety of shades - from pure white to dark crimson, purple and even green, there are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers.

These bulbous plants are among the best for home forcing, which even the most unprepared lovers can do. In most parts of Russia, amaryllis, whose homeland is South America, is able to winter only in room conditions and has a pronounced dormant period from about the end of October to the beginning of February. The main secret of successful forcing is the correct organization of rest for amaryllis.

How to prepare amaryllis for dormancy. At the end of August - September, it is necessary to abandon top dressing and slowly begin to reduce watering until they completely stop at the end of October - November. Amaryllis will begin to shed its leaves gradually, and by the end of autumn they should all die off naturally. It is not worth specifically cutting off yellowing leaves, since when they die, all the organic substances from them pass into the bulb, making the necessary reserve for subsequent flowering. Sometimes one or two unfaded leaves remain for quite a long time. They are carefully bent or cut at the base of the bulb to save storage space - for example, on shelving in a cool pantry, heated greenhouse, or winter garden, in a warm garage where the temperature does not drop below zero in winter.

How to store amaryllis in the dormant period. At rest, the bulbs usually keep alive most of the skeletal and largest roots, so they need to be watered occasionally (once every 15-20 days). Pots with resting bulbs are kept in a cool dry place at a temperature of about + 5 ... + 12 ° C, they do not need light. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or in bulk in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: hippeastrum and amaryllis bulbs are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values!

When does amaryllis usually bloom? At home, the normal flowering period of amaryllis is mid-February - the first half of March. But it often happens that amaryllis continue to bloom in April and even in May, especially large bulbs that give a second wave of flowering. You are quite capable of regulating this process and making amaryllis bloom, for example, on Valentine's Day or on March 8th. 7 to 10 weeks before the desired flowering time, move pots with rested bulbs to a warmer, brighter room and lightly water them. In the future, the frequency of irrigation should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, the temperature and dryness of the surrounding air, and the state of the earthen coma. Following these simple recommendations, you will be rewarded with an annual abundant flowering of your pets.

How and when to transplant amaryllis. It is advisable to transplant amaryllis and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years and preferably in the spring, about 3-5 weeks after flowering. The root system is not cut off during planting and transplanting, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling cuts with crushed charcoal. When transplanting, children are carefully separated, which often appear near the bulbs, and planted in separate pots, designating the variety. At proper care children bloom in about the third or fourth year. When transplanting, the diameter of the pot is slightly increased, since amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster in a “cramped” container. You can read more about the correct maintenance and transplantation of amaryllis bulbs in my article.

Recommendations for those who are a little late with the preparation of amaryllis for rest. Most likely, most of the plants themselves "realized" that it was time to rest, when the day at the end of September - October significantly subsided, and it became noticeably colder in the rooms and on the windowsills, especially at night. Such conditions are not suitable for a stormy vegetation, so plants naturally shed some of their foliage in preparation for winter dormancy. If you also intuitively guessed that in cool conditions all plants need to be watered much less often and less plentifully, then you will not have to do anything else. And turning on the central heating will probably finally dry out a couple more yellowing leaves. Then everything is simple: we stop watering the plants and after a few days we put them to rest in some cool and rather dark room. In extreme cases, a shaded corner of the coolest room will do, where your plants will stand for another two to three months, until February or March, until you decide that it is time for them to prepare for flowering. During storage, the leaves continue to die off and your task is to occasionally remove them, as well as the black dried outer scales of the bulbs, in order to keep the plants neat and prevent the bulbs from rotting when they resume watering.

One key note- all this we are talking about plants that have reached 3-4 years old, have already entered or are ready for regular flowering. Younger plants grown from children should not be dried out and forcibly forced to shed their leaves, although in winter they will also have their own dormant period, during which new leaves stop growing and part of last year's growth dies off. During this cool and relatively dark period, young plants simply need to be watered more infrequently and moderately so as not to flood their root system.

Well, if the plant continues to grow rapidly, threw out one or two buds and is going to bloom? It's okay, this option is also quite acceptable, although less desirable. It's just that the plant has confused spring with autumn, especially if you continued to water and feed it intensively. Let the amaryllis bloom naturally, but at the same time reduce the frequency and intensity of watering a little just in case. And watch your plant. It is possible that you have already filled the bulb and this is its “swan song”.

If your plant develops well, its peduncles reach a normal height, the size of the buds and flowers do not cause concern, flowering is long enough - 10-12 days, then you should not worry too much. It's just that the dormant period for this plant will come a little later than usual. But next spring it will bloom, alas, most likely, will no longer be.

Much worse, if a few leaves suddenly completely stopped developing and during the summer did not reach their natural length. This may signal some kind of disease of the plant, the trouble of the bulb itself. Secondary signs of poor bulb condition may be softness, lethargy, lack of elasticity, or the presence of black or brown spots on the surface. It is very bad if you notice the presence of rot on the surface or at the base, excess water in the pan after your long absence, or any insects fluttering around the plant. Sometimes the bulb leans on its side or simply dangles on one or two remaining roots, although normally in amaryllis the root system is well developed and completely wraps around the earthen ball.

In this case, you must urgently carefully remove the bulb along with the earthy clod and inspect it. Depending on the state of the root system and the bulb itself, decide on the need for an urgent transplant, some kind of resuscitation, or only slightly dry if the root system is slightly waterlogged. In general, amaryllis, like all bulbous plants, are able to do without soil for a long time and, in case of emergency, may well lie down for a week or two in a cool dark place until you have the opportunity to come to grips with them and plant them according to all the rules of agricultural technology, which I have already described in my article Beautiful home flower Amaryllis.

If obvious traces of rot or other damage are found on the bulb, the first step is to assess the degree and depth of the lesion. It often happens that the foci are still on the surface of the bulb and it is enough to carefully remove them with a clean clerical knife or scalpel to a depth of 2-3 scales, or remove the affected scales along the entire diameter. Then the bulb must be treated with an effective fungicide, for example, Maxim, or at least a maroon solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green, and then dried for 1-2 weeks in the shade or on a cool pantry shelf, checking periodically. This usually allows you to save amaryllis from further development of diseases and rot. When the problem is localized and defeated, the bulb is planted in fresh soil so that the affected area is slightly above the soil level.

If the problem still remains, then resuscitation continues until it is possible to stop the focus of the spread of the disease. If the rot has affected the bottom of the bulb or hit several roots, part of the bottom, together with the affected roots, is carefully cut out and the wound is treated with a fungicide. And don't rush to board! Dry the bulb well to prevent the disease from returning.

An even more difficult situation is created if the bulb has lost almost all roots. As long as it does not rot from the inside, it is quite possible to save it! Treat the entire bulb with the fungicide after removing all lesions. Next, thoroughly clean all affected areas and cavities and treat again with a disinfectant solution. Dry the bulb and store it in the pantry until February - March, until the life processes that accompany the exit from dormancy begin to awaken in it. It is even better if you plant it in a pot later - at the end of March or April. Then for sure. I recommend first planting the amaryllis in a 0.5 liter clear disposable plastic cup, in slightly damp vermiculite with a pinch of some kind of root stimulant. In such a container it is convenient to observe the development of the roots. Vermiculite needs to be moistened extremely rarely, because a plastic glass practically does not evaporate moisture, and on top of it, almost the entire hole is covered with an onion.

Before planting, it is also desirable to treat the bulb itself with a root formation stimulator or hold it for half an hour in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, which has both a bactericidal and a stimulating role. The newly planted plant should be placed in a bright and moderately warm place without direct sunlight. I have had cases where some bulbs did not want to give roots for 6-8 months! True, this rarely happens. Therefore, do not despair, but wait patiently and you will be rewarded! If the bulb turns green and elastic in the light, it means that it will definitely survive and, sooner or later, will give new roots, which means that it will bloom again sometime!

* The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis belladonna and Hippeastrum garden. (Ed.)

Amaryllis is a rather unpretentious bulbous plant, usually blooming in spring . First, the flower releases in turn several peduncles with a large flower. And then begins to grow large leaves. After some time, the foliage becomes pale and fades. This means that there is a period of rest.

What happens to the plant?

From mid-September until spring, amaryllis has a dormant period when the plant regains strength after a period of active vegetation. By this time, flowering and growth had ceased, and the flower, having shed its powerful foliage, began to prepare for dormancy.

Care

Within 3-5 months, the plant recovers after flowering and gains strength for the subsequent vegetation. it happens in winter. At this time, the plant is not watered, the bulbs are stored in a dark, cool place.

How to store during the winter?

Amaryllis needs to create environmental conditions under which growth and development processes do not start, which allows the bulbs to rest and gain strength for further flowering:

• Temperature +2..+15 degrees.
• Lack of light.
• Low air humidity.

If the bulb is not provided with such a rest, it will be very weakened and will lose its ability to bloom for several years.

Read about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it give buds.

Detailed step by step instructions

You can notice that the plant is preparing to rest, by wilting and losing the color of the foliage. At this time, organic matter passes from the leaves to the bulb, creating a supply of nutrients. Therefore, do not rush to cut off the yellowing leaves, you need to wait for their natural death.

1. Starting from the end of August, you need to gradually reduce watering to a minimum and stop fertilizing.
2. Carefully cut off yellowed and withered leaves close to the bulb.
3. Carefully inspect the bulb and remove all dead particles, remnants of dried roots and planting soil. On healthy bulbs there should be no traces of rot, mold spots, cracks. Affected bulbs must be isolated from healthy ones.
4. The bulbs need to be disinfected, to do this, keep them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, this will save the plant from infection. For extra protection, wrap each bulb in a tissue paper.
5. Place the bulbs in a cool, dark place, such as a basement or cellar. You should not send them to rest in a pot of soil, as the bulbs must be ventilated. Amaryllis bulbs are not frost-resistant, so they will not tolerate drops in temperature below zero.
6. Leave in these conditions until the end of February, when the plant can be planted for forcing. Check periodically for damage.
7. Expose to light and water the flower should be when the flower arrow appears.

It is told about caring for amaryllis at home, and read about growing it on the street and in the house.

What to do if something went wrong?

• It happens that the amaryllis has faded, but the foliage continues to be green and does not think to turn yellow and dry out. Perhaps the flower confused autumn with spring. In this case, you should not forcibly drive the plant into a state of rest, this can only harm it. Flowering is likely to be next year. In the future, the plant will have to be returned to normal mode.
• If the bulb has lost all roots, but does not rot from the inside, then it can be saved. Clean out all the rot, remove all lesions and treat all cavities with a fungicide, for example, Maxim. Then dry the bulb well and put it away for storage.
• Often, when checking the bulbs, red rot is found on them. This is the most dangerous disease for amaryllis, in which cracks appear on the bulbs and shoots.
  1. If red rot is found at rest, then all affected areas must be removed and treated with a solution of foundationol.
  2. If the disease appeared during the growing season, then you will have to completely change the soil, spilling it with the drug. Plant the bulb, leaving almost all of it on the surface. At the same time, water should not fall on it when watering. Keep the flower until recovery in a cool place and water to a minimum.

Read about diseases and pests, as well as the treatment of amaryllis.

The amaryllis bulb contains lycopene. This is an alkaloid that has a toxic effect on the body, it can cause poisoning. Therefore, all work on cleaning and planting bulbs should be carried out with gloves.

Flowering will be optimal and natural at the end of March. But if you follow the conditions of distillation and provide proper care, then flowering can be achieved at any time of the year.

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The main attraction of amaryllis is its huge inflorescences. But often novice flower growers who first planted this plant and all year round it is watered, after a few years they wonder why they were crushed or whether it completely stopped blooming. And the reason for this behavior of the flower is that it is not allowed to rest. Amaryllis is one of those indoor plants that need a dormant period. If you give the plant a rest to recuperate, it will still delight with its flowering.

What does rest mean for amaryllis?

Amaryllis has a very interesting life cycle:

1. The bulbs first germinate (they have light plump roots on the bottom).
2. Then a powerful peduncle begins to emerge from the top of the bulb.
3. When it stretches to the required height, inflorescences open (usually not all at once, but one by one).
4. After the end of flowering, active growth of leaves begins.
5. With the onset of autumn and until the beginning of spring, the bulbs should rest before the next flowering.

During the period of active growth, which lasts until autumn, it is better to plant amaryllis in the garden. According to the observations of flower growers practicing this method, bulbs growing in open ground are larger than those left in a pot, which means they have more nutrients.

Thus, a dormant period is necessary for the plant so that the bulbs can recover from such intense work as flowering and foliage growth. If she is not given such an opportunity, the amaryllis will continue to grow and form new leaves, but a weakened bulb will hardly be able to bloom in a year or two.

How to prepare the bulb for rest?

Preparation of amaryllis for wintering should begin with the cessation of watering (gradual). In addition, the pot must be rearranged in a dark place. In the absence of watering and light, new roots and leaves will cease to form, and the leafy cap will gradually fade.

When this happens, the bulb must be removed from the flowerpot, cleaned of the soil and cut the roots. Then rinse in potassium permanganate and dry.

Where to store the bulb in winter?

Bulbs should winter in a dark, cool place, but it is not easy to find this in apartment conditions. The balcony is not very suitable for wintering, especially open, because there the bulb will freeze and die.

Most best option- storage on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. Every two weeks it is necessary to check the condition of the bulbs. If there is no free space there, then you can just leave the bulb in the flowerpot.

Before placing the onion in the refrigerator, it should be wrapped in a napkin or toilet paper.

In mid-February, amaryllis should be taken out of the refrigerator and put into distillation.

Amaryllis wintering features - video

The main attraction of amaryllis is its huge inflorescences. But often novice flower growers, who first planted this plant and water it all year round, after a few years wonder why the amaryllis flowers were crushed or if it completely stopped blooming. And the reason for this behavior of the flower is that it is not allowed to rest. Amaryllis is one of those indoor plants that need a dormant period. If you give the plant a rest to recuperate, it will still delight with its flowering.

What does rest mean for amaryllis?

Amaryllis has a very interesting life cycle:

1. The bulbs first germinate (they have light plump roots on the bottom).
2. Then a powerful peduncle begins to emerge from the top of the bulb.
3. When it stretches to the required height, inflorescences open (usually not all at once, but one by one).
4. After the end of flowering, active growth of leaves begins.
5. With the onset of autumn and until the beginning of spring, the bulbs should rest before the next flowering.

During the period of active growth, which lasts until autumn, it is better to plant amaryllis in the garden. According to the observations of flower growers practicing this method, bulbs growing in open ground are larger than those left in a pot, which means they have more nutrients.

Thus, a dormant period is necessary for the plant so that the bulbs can recover from such intense work as flowering and foliage growth. If she is not given such an opportunity, the amaryllis will continue to grow and form new leaves, but a weakened bulb will hardly be able to bloom in a year or two.

How to prepare the bulb for rest?

Preparation of amaryllis for wintering should begin with the cessation of watering (gradual). In addition, the pot must be rearranged in a dark place. In the absence of watering and light, new roots and leaves will cease to form, and the leafy cap will gradually fade.

When this happens, the bulb must be removed from the flowerpot, cleaned of the soil and cut the roots. Then rinse in potassium permanganate and dry.

Where to store the bulb in winter?

Bulbs should winter in a dark, cool place, but it is not easy to find this in apartment conditions. The balcony is not very suitable for wintering, especially open, because there the bulb will freeze and die.

The best option is to store it on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. Every two weeks it is necessary to check the condition of the bulbs. If there is no free space there, then you can just leave the bulb in the flowerpot.

Before placing the onion in the refrigerator, it should be wrapped in a napkin or toilet paper.

In mid-February, amaryllis should be taken out of the refrigerator and put into distillation.

Amaryllis wintering features - video

In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, amaryllis leaves naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a dormant period, amaryllis and hippeastrums begin to grow leaves again, and the peduncle and buds are laid.

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Preparing amaryllis for a dormant period

The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. In hippeastrums, a dormant period occurs after the plant has faded, because hippeastrums can be driven out at any time of the year, and not just at the end of summer or early autumn. Early forcing in the fall or late is possible - then the hippeastrum blooms at the end of winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.

But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a dormant period. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The remaining varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum for the summer in the ground, then you need to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

Leaves are a source of nutrients

However, the bulb after the flowering of amaryllis is not dug immediately, you must first allow the leaves to do an important job - to supply the bulb with nutrients.

In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and allow it to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, while giving all the strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. When the leaves turn completely yellow and die off, the plant will go dormant on its own.

Wintering of amaryllis and hippeastrums

The main dormant period for amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted in open ground for the summer, then after flowering, amaryllis must be dug up and transplanted into a pot even before frost.

Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to transplant these flowers every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily endure frost, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.

But if you decide to take the hippeastrum into the house for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature in the range of 10-18 ° C.

Temperature conditions for amaryllis (hippeastrum)

At rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is around 15°C, but a temperature of 10°C is also considered acceptable, and the upper figure is 18°C. If it is cooler, the bulb may get sick, and if it drops below 5 ° C, it may die.

Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5 ° C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. Higher temperatures than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.

This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, namely, complete rest guarantees the laying of a healthy flower arrow.

During dormancy, you only need to water the bulb so that it does not dry out - once a month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into the pan so that in conditions of cool air and excess water, the bulb does not rot.

You will know that the recovery period is over when the flower arrow appears at the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and top dressing should be started only after this arrow stretches to 10 cm. From this moment, a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.

With a fairly cool climate in our region, one of the most favorite houseplants is the amaryllis blooming in winter.

Modern varieties of this native of the warm countries of Africa can be completely different color shades- starting from pure white and ending with purple, dark crimson and, no matter how strange it may seem, green. There are also representatives of this species with striped or double flowers.

This bulbous plant is considered one of the most convenient for forcing at home, which even an inexperienced amateur grower can do.

Growth Features

Given that amaryllis blooms exclusively in the second half of winter, it is necessary to adhere to the seasonal rules for keeping this flower. There are few such rules, but still they exist, and this is especially true for the winter period. To understand some of the features of such seasonal amaryllis care, let's follow the entire life cycle of the plant step by step.

1. The germination of the bulb begins with the appearance on its bottom of plump light color roots.
2. After rooting, active growth of a powerful and strong peduncle begins.
3. When the peduncle reaches a certain length, inflorescences form on its top and their successive (sometimes simultaneous) opening occurs, that is, the plant begins to bloom.
4. At the end of flowering, the peduncle gradually fades, and the amaryllis begins to actively grow foliage.
5. Starting from mid-September and until spring, amaryllis begins the so-called dormant period.

Many indoor plant lovers are not fully familiar with how to properly prepare this flower for winter hibernation. Consider what and how to do.

Read about the nuances of planting and growing amaryllis, as well as the rules for caring for a flower, here.

Condition during the winter

As mentioned above, within 7-8 months, the amaryllis has a period of active vegetation. During this time, the bulb of the plant gives all its strength, first to the pasture of a powerful and fleshy peduncle, then to a two-three-week flowering, after which all the remaining forces go into the growth of also quite powerful and large leaves.

It is not at all surprising that after such a vegetative "marathon" the plant needs a certain period of time to recuperate.

The dormant period is simply necessary for amaryllis to restore the bulbs to subsequent growth and flowering cycles.

Exactly like this dormant period occurs in amaryllis in the second half of September, when the plant sheds all the extended foliage, slows down the vegetative processes and prepares for wintering.

How to store?

Once we notice that the foliage of the plant begins to lose its usually pronounced dark green color and wither, the amaryllis must be immediately helped to go into a dormant stage.

Conditions

The temperature regime for wintering amaryllis bulbs should be such as not to allow vegetation processes to start. The temperature should be within + 2 + 15 degrees. one more necessary condition there should be a lack of light and low humidity in the room where the amaryllis will winter.

Step-by-step instruction

If the flower is not helped to go into the dormant stage, its growth and the formation of new leaves will continue, which will greatly weaken the bulb and within 1-2 years the plant will lose its ability to bloom (read about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it release buds, read here ). To do this, you need to take the following measures:

1. gradually stop or minimize the watering of the flower;
2. when all the leaves turn yellow and sag, they must be completely cut off, and the bulb should be moved to a dark and fairly cool place (pantry, basement, not very heated garage, etc.).

I would like to note a very common mistake of amateur flower growers who send amaryllis to rest without removing the bulb from the ground, that is, along with the pot. This is strongly discouraged. After the complete withering of all the foliage on the plant, it must, as already mentioned a little higher, be completely removed.

Thereafter the amaryllis bulb should be carefully removed from the pot along with the planting soil. Then you need to carefully free the rhizomes of the plant from this very planting soil, along the way checking for damaged or dried parts of the root on the bulb and, if any, remove them with small scissors.

After such preliminary preparation, the bulb can be sent to rest in a cool and dark place, where it will recover and gain strength for the next vegetation cycle within 3-5 months.

1. First of all, it is necessary to isolate the damaged specimens of the amaryllis bulbs from the undamaged ones so that the fungus or infection does not pass to the latter.
2. Onions damaged by the pest should be brought into a warm room and re-treated with a mild manganese solution or specialized products designed to disinfect bulbous plants.
3. After treatment with such disinfectants, it is necessary to without fail let the bulbs dry well.
4. To re-wrap processed amaryllis bulbs, in no case should you use the same paper in which they were wrapped before. You should take fresh clean tissues or clean layers of toilet paper.
5. After all the preparations, amaryllis bulbs should be sent back to storage in a dark and cool room.

Read more about why amaryllis leaves turn yellow, pests and fungal diseases appear, as well as how to cure a flower, read here.

Amaryllis is not only a model of beauty among flowers of this kind, but also a very, very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. With proper maintenance in winter conditions, the bulb, planted in mid-February in a flower pot, by the end of March will be able to please its owner of extraordinary beauty with flowering.

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