How to install a water heated floor in the house with your own hands? Do-it-yourself warm water floor How does a warm water floor work?

What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a flooring structure with a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates. The underfloor heating system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central system heating.

The water floor heating system can be operated as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and method of heating, they emit different types warm floors: water and electric (cable, rod, film, infrared).

Do-it-yourself water-heated floor

A water heated floor is a durable and economical heating system, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, the installation of a warm floor system is entrusted to professionals. For those who decide to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of, and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.

Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

• efficient redistribution of heat, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;

• security natural circulation air;

• compatibility of a warm floor with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);

• the ability to install an autonomous system (individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;

• reduction of heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);

• independence from power supply (and power outages);

• the ability to adjust the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;

• minimum costs for self-assembly;

• getting better appearance premises due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;

Minuses:

• inertia of the system. The warm-up time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);

• the complexity of the design in the case of using a warm floor as the only source of space heating;

• high installation cost;

• difficult to regulate temperature regime in case of connection to the central heating main;

• reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;

• the use of floor coverings such as carpet, carpet or carpet is excluded;

• the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors from below, in a private house - a basement);

• low maintainability of the pipe system;

Water heated floor - do-it-yourself installation

Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four consecutive steps:

1. Develop on your own, download a ready-made model or order individual project warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist in order to eliminate errors.
2. Select equipment and building materials.
3. Proper installation of underfloor heating system.
4. Carry out a check and the first start of a water-heated floor.
5. Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).

Stage 1 - designing a warm floor

Before proceeding with the drafting of the project, it is necessary to make sure that there are no unremovable obstacles to the installation of the system in the room. These may be:

• room height. The thickness of the warm water floor (mounted system) is 100-120 mm. This raises the floor to the appropriate height;

• location of the door. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to keep the height of the doorway at 2200 mm ( standard door and mounting clearances) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to manufacture a door to order;

• window orientation. Windows that face north or northwest, or face the wind, or have big size, may lead to the fact that the power of the system will need to be increased in order to compensate for heat loss through the external circuit and provide the desired room temperature;

  Note. If the calculated heat loss is more than 100 W / sq.m. installation of a water heating system is impractical.

• bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Considering the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the underfloor heating system should be assessed. Old floors are not yet a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but a reason to explore the water floor.

In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in a private house are more common than in apartments in high-rise buildings.

If there are no obstacles for the device, you can start designing.

Calculation of a water heated floor

The required amount of material is calculated depending on the parameters of the heated room and specifications component equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made on the basis of the following data:

• floor area and room height;
• material of walls and ceilings;
• degree and type of thermal insulation;
• type of flooring;
• pipe material and diameter;
• power of the heating element (boiler or central);
• desired temperature regime (see table).

Limiting (maximum) surface temperature of a warm floor for rooms for various purposes

After that, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of placing the pipes.

How to make a water heated floor

Be sure to pay attention (device features):

• install in places where furniture is located heating elements sex is not allowed, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;

• it is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the pipe section);

The maximum length of the water floor heating contour (loop) depending on the diameter of the pipes used

The deviation is explained by the fact that the hydraulic resistance (deceleration of the movement of the coolant) and the thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.

Masters consider it optimal, the length of the circuit is 50-60 m (with a pipe cross section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that in the process of moving through the pipes, the hot year gives off part of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.

Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.

• the step of laying pipes for underfloor heating is 100-500 mm;

Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) source of heating, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the step is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, the “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.

• installation of thermostats will avoid overheating, and reduce the cost of operating the system.

Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating

Important. Installing an underfloor heating system in an apartment is fraught with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After the approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Usually, installation is allowed only in new houses, where there is a separate standpipe for pumping hot water(used in case of a breakout).

Installation of a warm floor in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. A permit is not required for heating a small area.

Scheme of a warm water floor in a private house

Scheme of a warm water floor in an apartment

In addition to the component installation scheme, at the design stage, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected.

1. concrete system. It involves pouring pipes with concrete (arrangement of the screed);
2. decking system. It involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no "wet" processes and the speed of work increases.

Stage 2 - accessories for underfloor heating

Underfloor heating is water, it is a complex system of pipes with a coolant. Therefore, we list what is needed for installing a warm floor (system components).

Boiler for warm water floor

The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is to connect to a gas boiler. If the apartment does not individual heating, you can connect to the central heating main, but the autonomy of the project is lost.

It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage lies in the possibility of installation in apartment buildings(since they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the attachment point). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.

The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.

Circulation pump for underfloor heating

It is necessary to ensure the movement of the coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house exceeds 100 sq.m.

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Pipes for a warm water floor

• copper pipes according to experts are considered ideal option- durable, characterized by high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;

• plastic pipes leading in terms of price / quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the appearance of corrosion and accumulations, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow area unchanged. Moreover, metal-plastic pipes are lightweight, easy to bend and have a high temperature limit.

• polypropylene pipes are attracted by a low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.

• PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require hard mount, because straighten when heated. Users recommend reducing the mounting pitch of holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.

The optimal section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).

Note. According to reviews, users are advised to use only well-known brands (Uponor, Rehau).

Insulation for warm water floor

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of a warm floor);

• expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made heat-insulating mats with protrusions for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;

• mineral wool. Users speak poorly of wool in the case of a concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.

Advice. The heat-insulating layer (insulation thickness for underfloor heating) above the basement, in the basement, on the first floor in a private house, should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected temperature of the coolant, the thicker the thermal insulation layer must be made.

Heat consumption meter

Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.

manifold cabinet

It is installed for the installation of adjusting elements and for joining the pipes of the circuits with the heat supply main.

Reinforcing mesh for underfloor heating

Regarding the laying of reinforced stacks, user opinions differ. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen the concrete screed after the pipe system has been laid.

Components for the tie device

• concrete (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
• fasteners for fixing pipes.

Stage 3 - do-it-yourself installation of a warm water floor

1. Installation of manifold cabinet

Installation of the system begins with the installation of a collector cabinet, the mandatory elements of which are (collector assembly): a collector, a pump, an air vent valve and a drain outlet. Collector dimensions depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the manifold at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to fulfill this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.

Important. When installing the collector, free space is provided for bending the pipes. In this case, installation of pipes from above is not allowed, only from below. This will ensure the normal movement of the coolant. The installation of a shut-off valve between the piping system and the manifold will simplify the maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, descent, repair).

2. Preparation of the base for underfloor heating

The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.

Laying on the prepared surface thermal insulation material reducing heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying damper tape levels the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

Floors under a water-heated floor must be leveled to ensure a screed of the same thickness (a guarantee of uniform heat distribution over the surface)

3. Laying pipes for underfloor heating

Installation of water floor heating pipes can be performed by several methods (laying schemes):

Snail

Pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is obligatory to lay pipes through a row in order to ensure the possibility of a reverse flow of the coolant and a more uniform heat transfer.

The method is used when, due to the complex configuration of the room, it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of ​​​​more than 40 sq.m.

Snake (loops)

In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along outer wall, then undulates back. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.

Meander (double snake or combined scheme)

The serpentine loops are arranged in parallel and allow organizing the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.

The material was prepared for the site www.moydomik.net

Advice. Masters are advised to start laying from the outer or colder walls of the room.

To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended for a beginner to first mark the floor surface. At the time of installation of a warm floor in subsequent rooms, laying will be done "by eye". Only solid pipes or reliable connections are used for laying.

Pipe laying begins by connecting one end of it to the supply manifold.

Advice. The pipe is laid at a distance of at least 70 mm. from the wall of the room. At the same time, near the outer walls, the distance between the pipes can be reduced, because. heat loss is higher.

You can organize insulation near the outer walls by changing the order of the pipe layout, as shown in the diagram.

Underfloor heating pipe laying scheme for enhanced heating of external walls

After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire, or lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor and tie the pipe to it, allowing the thermal expansion of materials.

Simplifies the work of a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a warm water floor, the use of which at the same time allows you to provide thermal insulation and lay pipes in even rows.

Polystyrene underlay for underfloor heating

Installation of pipes under a warm floor on a substrate

4. Connecting the floor heating collector

After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.

5. Crimping of a warm water floor

Pressure testing of pipes (hydraulic test), this is the name of the procedure for checking the quality of laying, because at this stage, it is possible to make adjustments to the heating system of a water-heated floor.

Pressure testing involves the inlet of water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated working pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressing, a pressure decrease of no more than 10% is permissible, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. Check time - a day or more. If no violations are detected, and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue to work.

6. Screed for a warm water floor

For screed can be used:

• any ready-made mixture, a mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;

• classical concrete (with cement grade not less than M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).

Scheme of a screed device for a warm water floor

Screed device for underfloor heating

The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is filled with a full (filled with coolant) system with a pressure specified during pressure testing. The total curing time for concrete is 28 days. For a mixture, the setting time is determined by the manufacturer.

Note. Expansion joints are provided on the surface of a large area (more than 40 sq.m.).

Stage 4 - the first launch of a warm water floor

After complete hardening (drying) of the floor screed, the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.

Starting a warm water floor

Stage 5 - finishing the underfloor heating

Fully finished underfloor heating is covered finishing material. The most popular flooring today is tile and laminate.

Water heated floor under the laminate is widespread. However, the installation of the laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:

• the quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, harmful substances will be released into the room. Typically, underfloor heating laminate is labeled "Warm wasser";

• the heat insulator under the laminate does not fit;

• ventilation of the covered laminate floor is obligatory. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then closed with a plinth;

• before laying the laminate is placed in a room to set the floor temperature. At the same time, packages with lamellas must be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high pile.

As you can see, the use of laminate as a floor covering does not create additional difficulties, however, the masters advise using a water-heated floor under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate is characterized by low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors, the fumes of which may not have the best effect on the health of the residents of the house.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video

Water heated floors will last a long time if you follow the recommendations for their operation, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:

• a gradual rise in temperature is required. Do not run the system at "maximum" after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 ° C per day;

• the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;

• It is not recommended to turn on/off the system frequently. This will not lead to additional savings;

• it is necessary to ensure optimal humidity in the room. A balanced microclimate will favorably affect human health.

Conclusion

In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, it is possible to carry out installation work on the street, for example, for installing a snowmelt and anti-icing system (for heating the footpath, entrance area, porch, stairs, car parking, etc.).

Do you want to make your home cozy, modern and warm? Pay attention to the warm water floor. In this article, we will describe in detail all its advantages and disadvantages, tell you how to choose pipes and lay them, describe the collector layout and control system.

Advantages and disadvantages of a water heated floor. Foundation preparation. Installation nuances. The choice of pipes, how they are laid, the frequency of turns and fixation options. Screed and maturity dates.

Device and principle of operation

A water heated floor is a room heating system in which the coolant circulates through a circuit located under the floor covering. Please note that the pipes are not always in the screed. There are "flooring systems" in which the contour is not poured with concrete.

On closer examination, a water-heated floor pie consists of the following elements:

1. Prepared base;
2. Screed (5 cm);
3. Heat insulator (5 cm);
4. Pipes (2 cm);
5. Screed (4 cm);
6. Floor covering (2 cm).

Depending on the pipes used, there may be several layers of waterproofing. The base is a draft floor in the basement or on the first floor of a private house. The first layer of screed is required precisely in the absence of a flat surface.

A heat insulator with a thickness of 5 cm is a standard solution. But if possible, it is better to increase the thickness to 10 cm. This increases the efficiency of the entire system by 10-15%. Especially if a water-heated floor is arranged on the first floor. best material for this layer is extruded polystyrene foam.

Pipes in the vast majority of water heated floors are used with a diameter of 16 mm.

The second layer of screed covers the entire system and serves as a giant heat accumulator.

The thickness of the water heated floor cake varies from 18 to 23 cm. And the mass of 1 m 2 of this system reaches a quarter of a ton! Such harsh conditions significantly limit the spread of water heated floors.

The circuit is connected to the pump and the boiler through an adjustment and control system.

Where to use

In view of the sufficient thickness and mass of the entire system, its use is limited to private housing construction. It is extremely irrational to install a water-heated floor in apartments.

The main reason is the difficulty in connecting the power supply. It is possible to connect to the central heating system only after permission from the regulatory authorities. And it's almost impossible to get it. Even if it is, the main leitmotif will disappear - autonomy. We are aware of options for installing electric and even gas boilers in an apartment, but these are isolated cases that only confirm the rule: water heated floor is used only in private homes.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of water heated floors are fully revealed only when using cheap energy sources, such as: gas, coal, firewood. Heating the coolant with an electric boiler is approximately 7 times more expensive than when using gas equipment.

The gigantic heat capacity of the water floor heating system is another plus. A room containing ≈ 100 kg/m2 of heated concrete cannot cool down quickly (only the top layer of the screed is taken into account).

But there are downsides too. First of all, it is a monstrous inertia. It takes time and energy to heat up such a layer of screed.

Inertia leads to the fact that the temperature control of a water-heated floor is very arbitrary. Control equipment takes temperature readings from the coolant, floor surface and air (in some thermostats). But the changes made through the thermostat appear very slowly.

Installation of a water heated floor

The task is quite difficult, but doable. Just make sure the base is level first. This is a very important requirement, given that it still needs to be leveled and it is more efficient to do this with the first layer of screed. Why?

For example, the height difference in the room is 3 cm. If you immediately lay the pipe and only then level it with a screed, it turns out that in one corner the height of the cement mixture will be minimal - 4 cm, and in the other 7. This means that during the operation of underfloor heating, with on the one hand, they will warm up 4, and on the other 7 cm of concrete. Such an uneven load has a very detrimental effect on the entire system as a whole and leads to rapid damage to the floor covering.

Therefore, the first and important step is to level the floors according to the level of the horizon. To prepare concrete floors you will need:

• Beacon profile;
• Laser level;
• Construction square;
• 5-10 kg of gypsum;
• Primer;
• Mobile concrete mixer;
• Cement;
• The fiber is polypropylene.

Work progress:

Floors are swept and primed. While the soil dries, beacons are set up. For this, a laser level is installed in the middle of the room so that the projection of the horizontal beam is at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. Then, with a square, measure the height from the floor to the beam in different corners of the room and, based on the results, determine the highest point. In this place, the height of the screed will be the minimum allowable - 4 cm. In other places - according to need.

To install beacons, gypsum is diluted to a state of thick sour cream. Then small heaps are made from the resulting mass along one wall, in increments of 60-80 cm, a beacon profile is laid on them. Attaching a square to it, they align it with the level of the horizon, placing it at the desired height. There should be 50 cm from the wall to the first beacon. The distance between adjacent beacons varies depending on the length of the rule (focus on 1-1.3 m). Please note that gypsum sets quickly, the work is carried out "without a smoke break."

After about 30-40 m, you can pour the screed. Cement is diluted with PGS in a ratio of 1:5. Polypropylene fiber is added at the rate of 80 gr. per 100 liters of mixture. Fiber is an element of dispersed reinforcement, qualitatively increasing the strength of the coating. In addition, after hardening, the new surface will be perfectly smooth.

The resulting mixture is poured in such a way that each next portion overlaps the previous one by 10-15 cm. The screed is leveled according to the level by the rule, with orientation along the beacons.

After pouring the entire surface, it takes time for the technical maturation of the cement-sand screed. Calculation, approximately, the next 1 cm of thickness - 1 week.

Laying a heat insulator

Extruded polystyrene foam and cross-linked polyethylene foam, only these two materials can be used for thermal insulation in a water heated floor system.

Before laying the heat insulator sheets, a damper tape 10-12 mm thick is glued around the perimeter of the room. It serves not only to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed, but also to prevent heat from escaping into the walls. In height, it should protrude beyond the boundaries of the top layer of the screed.

The sheets of the heat insulator are laid out in a row and always on a layer of waterproofing. For waterproofing, it is best to use a 0.2 mm thick polyethylene film.

If you decide to make the thickness of the thermal insulation 10 cm, then it will be better if you lay two layers of plates 5 cm thick. Be sure to space between the layers.

There is an option to use special plates designed for organizing water-heated floors as a heat insulator. Their difference is in the bosses on one of the surfaces. A pipe is laid between these bosses. But their cost is unreasonably high. In addition, not all pipes will hold in such plates. For example, polypropylene and polyethylene pipes are too elastic, they will require additional fixation.

Pipes are not fastened to the heat insulator. Fasteners must pass through the foam layer, and be fixed in the screed. This is a very time consuming process, given the amount of work.

Mounting tapes are a more acceptable solution, but it is very difficult to lay the pipe on them in a spiral (coil).

The best option would be to fix the pipes on the grid. In this case, the mesh will serve specifically for fastening pipes, and not for reinforcing the screed.

There are special meshes made of biaxially oriented polypropylene, or you can use a simple masonry mesh.

Pipe selection and installation

The following types of pipes are suitable for a water-heated floor:

• Copper;
• Polypropylene;
• Polyethylene PERT and PEX;
• metal-plastic;
• Corrugated stainless steel.

They have their strengths and weaknesses.

Characteristic Material	Radius	Heat transfer	Elasticity	Electrical conductivity	Life time*	Price for 1 m.**	Comments
Polypropylene	Ø 8	Low	High	Not	20 years	22 r	They only bend with heat. Frost-resistant.
Polyethylene PERT/PEX	Ø 5	Low	High	Not	20/25 years	36/55 r	Can't withstand overheating.
metal-plastic	Ø 8	Below the average	Not	Not	25 years	60 r	Bending only with special equipment. Not frost resistant.
Copper	Ø3	High	Not	Yes, requires grounding	50 years	240 r	Good electrical conductivity can cause corrosion. Grounding required.
Corrugated stainless steel	Ø 2.5-3	High	Not	Yes, requires grounding	30 years	92 r

Note:

* characteristics of pipes are considered when operating in water heated floors.

** Prices are taken from Yandex.Market.

The choice is very difficult if you try to save on yourself. Of course, you can not take copper for consideration - it is very expensive. But corrugated stainless steel, at a higher price, has exceptionally good heat dissipation. The temperature difference in the return and supply, they have the largest. This means that they give off heat better than competitors. Given the small bending radius, ease of operation and high performance characteristics, is the best choice.

Pipe laying is possible with a spiral and a snake. Each option has pros and cons:

• Snake - simple installation, almost always there is a "zebra effect".
• Snail - uniform heating, material consumption increases by 20%, laying is more laborious and painstaking.

But these methods can be combined within the same circuit. For example, along the walls "looking" at the street, the pipe is laid with a snake, and in the rest of the area with a snail. You can also change the frequency of turns.

There are generally accepted standards that professionals are guided by:

• Step - 20 cm;
• The length of the pipe in one circuit is not more than 120 m;
• If there are several contours, then their length should be the same.

Under stationary and large-sized interior items, it is better not to start pipes. For example, under a gas stove.

IMPORTANT: be sure to draw the laying diagram to scale.

Laying starts from the collector. Unwinding the bay fix the pipe according to the scheme. For fastening it is convenient to use plastic clamps.

Corrugated stainless steel is produced in coils of 50 m. For its connection, branded couplings are used.

The last element laid between the turns of the pipes is the temperature sensor. It is pushed into the corrugated pipe, the end of which is plugged and tied to the mesh. The distance from the wall is at least 0.5 m. Do not forget: 1 circuit - 1 temperature sensor. The other end of the corrugated pipe is brought to the wall and then, along the shortest path, is brought to the thermostat.

Control system and contour pressure testing

The control system for underfloor heating includes:

1. Pump;
2. Boiler;
3. Collector;
4. Temperature controller.

The layout of all elements in compliance with the technical parameters is a very difficult thermal engineering task. A lot of parameters are taken into account, starting from the number of fittings and the length of the pipes, and ending with the thickness of the walls and the region of the country. In general terms, you can focus on the following data:

1. The pump can only be used as a circulation pump. "Wet" type of pump, more reliable than "Dry" and less demanding in maintenance.

Use the following formula to calculate performance:

P \u003d 0.172 x W.

Where W is the power of the heating system.

For example, with a system power of 20 kW, the pump performance should be 20 x 0.172 = 3.44 m 3 / h. Round the result up.

The pressure is calculated by a more complex technique. After all, the pipes are located horizontally, and the pump characteristic shows a vertical pressure. Use the following formula: H = (L * K) + Z/10. Where L is the total length of the circuits, K is the coefficient of pressure loss due to friction (indicated in the pipe passport, translated into MPa), Z is the pressure attenuation coefficient in additional elements

Z 1 - 1.7 thermostat valve;

Z 2 - 1.2 mixer;

Z 3 - 1.3 valves and fittings.

For example, it looks like this, let's say there are 3 circuits, 120 m each. In total, there are 18 fittings, 3 thermostat valves, 1 mixer. Pipe - corrugated stainless steel ø16 mm, loss factor 0.025 MPa.

H = (120*3*0.025) + ((1.7 * 3) + (1.3 * 1) + (1.2 * 18))/10 = 9 + (5.1 + 1.3 + 21 ,6)/10 = 11.8 m. The result is rounded up - the pump head is 12 m.

1. The boiler power is calculated by the formula W = S * 0.1. Where S is the area of ​​the house. There are still a lot of correction factors, depending on the thickness and material of the walls of the house, the climate of the region, the number of floors, the presence of adjacent rooms.

Please note that the outlet water temperature must be over 30 - 35˚C. To withstand this temperature, a mixer is installed in front of the collector. In it, water is mixed to the desired temperature before being fed into the circuit.

1. The collector regulates the water supply in each circuit. Without it, the water will follow the path of least resistance to flow, i.e. the shortest path. Adjustment is carried out by servo drives, according to data from the thermostat.
2. Thermoregulators monitor the temperature in controlled rooms, taking readings from temperature sensors.

Before crimping the circuit, it is washed and only then connected to the manifold. Water is supplied under normal pressure, but the temperature is increased by 4˚C per hour, up to 50˚C. In this mode, the system should operate for 60-72 hours. IMPORTANT: during pressing, constant monitoring is required!

At home, without the use of special equipment, it is impossible to pressurize with increased pressure.

If the check did not reveal any flaws in the installation, then you can proceed to further operations.

Screed

IMPORTANT: the top layer of the screed is poured only when the contour is filled. But before that metal pipes grounded, and covered with a thick plastic film. This is an important condition to prevent corrosion due to electrochemical interactions of materials.

The issue of reinforcement can be solved in two ways. The first is to put a masonry mesh on top of the pipe. But with this option, cracks may appear due to shrinkage.

Another way is dispersed fiber reinforcement. When pouring water heated floors, steel fiber is best suited. Added in the amount of 1 kg / m 3 of the solution, it will be evenly distributed throughout the volume and will qualitatively increase the strength of the hardened concrete. Polypropylene fiber is much less suitable for the top layer of the screed, because the strength characteristics of steel and polypropylene do not even compete with each other.

Beacons are installed and the solution is kneaded according to the above recipe. The thickness of the screed must be at least 4 cm above the surface of the pipe. Given that the ø of the pipe is 16 mm, the total thickness will reach 6 cm. The maturation time for such a layer of cement screed is 1.5 months. IMPORTANT: It is unacceptable to speed up the process including floor heating! It's complicated chemical reaction the formation of "cement stone", which occurs in the presence of water. The heat will cause it to evaporate.

You can accelerate the maturation of the screed by including special additives in the recipe. Some of them cause complete hydration of the cement after 7 days. And besides this, shrinkage is significantly reduced.

You can determine the readiness of the screed if you put a roll on the surface toilet paper, and cover it with a saucepan. If the ripening process is over, then in the morning the paper will be dry.

First power on

A very important stage in the operation of a water-heated floor. In order not to crack the screed from uneven heating, and the pipes are not damaged, the inclusion is carried out according to the following scheme:

1 day - temperature 20 ˚C.

Day 2 - increase the temperature by 3 ˚C.

3 and the next day, raise the temperature by 4 ˚C, until reaching the operating mode.

Only after that, you can proceed to the installation of flooring.

The decision to independently organize floor heating using a water heating system raises the question: “How to design and install a warm water floor with your own hands?” This system is quite difficult to install. But this "complexity" is offset by further ease of use and more comfortable heating of the room, in comparison with radiator heating. You can reduce the cost of installing a warm floor by excluding the services of qualified craftsmen from the work process, that is, at your own peril and risk, take the entire installation process into your own hands. It is necessary to correctly calculate, select and purchase necessary materials, prepare the floor surface for the installation of the heating system and ... just do it!

What is a warm water floor?

A warm water floor is a variant of today's popular heating systems. To properly install a water heated floor, you need to have basic information about the installation of water systems and know the "pitfalls" of such a process. After all, apparent simplicity in practice turns into a mass of interrogative and problematic situations, which, with experience, could be foreseen in advance.

The principle of operation and the device of a water heated floor is quite simple - the heat carrier heated by the boiler to a certain temperature circulates through a special pipeline mounted in the floor of the room, transferring heat from the heat carrier in the pipes to it.

Calm down! Our negative experience of knowing cases of leaks in heating systems inspires fear, what if a leak appears? What's with the floor?.. What's with the neighbors? What words can be heard from them in such a situation?

Today's "advanced" technologies offer at the service of people such special pipes for underfloor heating, which (with proper installation) virtually exclude the possibility of damage to the pipeline in the floor!

List of required materials

A reliable device for a warm water floor involves the use of high-quality component materials, a list of which it is desirable to compile in advance and purchase one-time, so as not to “roll” kilometers to the nearest or profitable construction supermarket.

Here is a sample list of required materials:

• Means of thermal insulation: polystyrene foil mats or extruded polystyrene foam boards (for heavy floor loads).
• Damper tape (self-adhesive) 5 to 10 mm thick.
• Reinforcing mesh (Fixes the screed, but can also be used for mounting a heating pipe on it).
• Metal-plastic or polyethylene pipe (What to choose? How to calculate? Read below!)
• Fixings for pipes (brackets, mounting strips, swivel arcs, etc.)
• Additional ingredients in concrete mix floors (plasticizers, fillers, etc.)
• Collector systems (combs) for connecting the circuit (s) of the underfloor heating system. As well as a cabinet for their "aesthetic" installation.

We prepare and insulate the surface under the water-heated floor

Before we make a water heated floor, we are preparing a "bridgehead" for installation work, namely, to optimize the state of the concrete base on which pipes for a warm water floor will be mounted.

3.1 The old screed, if any, is dismantled to the ground.

3.2 The base of the floor is leveled strictly horizontally - height differences up to 10 mm are eliminated.

3.3 By laying waterproofing material, waterproofing of the base is carried out. In a multi-storey building, for example, such waterproofing will relieve you of the need to make repairs to the neighbors below, if the warm floor suddenly “leaks”. In a private house or on the ground floor, such waterproofing will be a serious obstacle to the slow but “sure” penetration of moisture (dampness) from the ground into the thickness of the concrete screed of the warm floor.

3.4 A damper tape is glued along the perimeter (along the walls), designed to further compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete screed when the floor heating system is heated.

Note! Underfloor heating can be installed using several "zone" circuits in one room. This allows you to differentially set the temperature regime in different parts of the room. If there are several circuits, a damper tape is also laid between them.

3.5 I hope you are planning to heat your floor, not the neighbors ceiling or the ground under the house. If this is the case - take care of the insulation of the base of the floor.

Floor insulation is performed in several ways, based on the location of the room and the type of heating in it.

• The premises of the first floor, located on the ground or above an unheated basement, should be insulated “seriously”: for example, expanded polystyrene sheets (thickness from 50 to 100 mm) laid on a layer of expanded clay.
• The floor of the apartment, with the neighbors below, will be enough to “cover” with sheets of extruded polystyrene foam (20-50 mm).
• In the case of using a water-heated floor as an addition to the heating radiators in the room, it will be enough to lay a layer of foiled (foil up) foamed polyethylene (penofol).

An interesting opportunity! If there are sufficient funds, to optimize the thermal insulation process, you can use specialized insulation mats with already prepared channels for laying pipes in them.

3.6 The next step is to fix the reinforcing mesh, designed for "anchor" fixation of the concrete screed covering the pipe system of the underfloor heating.

Attention savings! The pipes of the heating system can be attached to the same reinforcing mesh with ordinary plastic clamps-screeds. This will save some money by excluding fasteners for underfloor heating pipes from the shopping list.

Let's look at the "peripheral" fragment of the section of the "pie" of the warm floor:

Design and calculation of underfloor heating parameters

Pipes

The best option for underfloor heating is polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene. The cost of installing a water heating floor when using polyethylene pipes will increase slightly.

When using polypropylene, it is desirable to choose pipes reinforced with fiberglass, since polypropylene itself has a significant coefficient of thermal expansion. Fiberglass "reinforcement" prevents expansion polypropylene pipe, which in turn has a positive effect on the quality of the concrete screed underfloor heating.

Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are widely used today and have a less "significant" temperature coefficient of expansion.

Pipe size - diameter 16-20 mm.

The maximum heating temperature is at least 95 ° C.

Maximum pressure - not less than 10 atm.

Collector system

The design of a water heated floor when using more than one floor heating circuit involves the use of a manifold cabinet with all the necessary devices for connecting and controlling floor heating circuits.

Collector- this is a metal pipe-"comb" with nozzles for connecting the circuits of heating devices. The collectors are designed to provide the possibility of differentiated regulation of various heating circuits.

Collectors are equipped with either shut-off or control valves. Shut-off valves are intended only for completely disconnecting the heating circuit from the system (cheap, but inconvenient), and adjusting valves allow you to smoothly change the supply of coolant to the heating circuit.

Be sure to have an air valve in the manifold, as well as a drain outlet.

A manifold group is assembled in a manifold cabinet, which usually consists of two (supply and return) "combs", on which the necessary valves are mounted.

The collector cabinet must be designed when developing the entire heating system of a house or apartment. It is desirable that this be a place evenly removed from all heating devices, usually in a wall niche just above the floor level. The collector is selected based on the number of heating circuits connected to it.

The collector cabinet MUST be installed above the level of underfloor heating. Pipes should only go down from it - otherwise the air exhaust system will not be able to function normally.

Attention! - Why is it so difficult? - you ask. And you will be right. The collector group is not cheap and ... If you use one underfloor heating circuit and do not want to “complicate” the system for additional expenses, it is possible to carry out the installation of water-heated floors to the main pipes using "tees" with the obligatory installation of control valves on the supply and return pipes.

In the collector group, you can install a thermostat for a water-heated floor. There are manifolds with electromechanical actuators on the valves, allowing you to fully automate the "climate" control for warm floors and radiators throughout the house. The special preliminary mixers installed in them supply already mixed hot and cold water to the underfloor heating circuit to provide the required heating temperature. It is impractical to install such systems in a private house, where the heat loads on various heating circuits do not fluctuate sharply (The cost of a warm water floor at this age is instantaneous) even if you install a warm water floor with your own hands.

Calculation of underfloor heating pipes

How to calculate a warm floor for its efficient operation? After all, for each room it is necessary to make an individual calculation of the heating circuits. To do this, you can use specialized computer programs or the services of design organizations available to you.

Incorrect calculation of a warm water floor or complete disregard for it (installation of the system “by eye” and even without experience of such work) can lead to the appearance of a thermal “zebra” on the floor (alternating warm and cold zones), uneven heating of the floor in the room, heat leakage into cold uninsulated areas.

Parameters taken into account in the calculations:

• linear dimensions of the room;
• material and the presence of thermal insulation of walls and ceilings;
• type of heat-insulating material under the warm floor;
• type of floor covering;
• material and diameter of pipes of the underfloor heating system;
• temperature of the "incoming" water (depends on the capacity of the boiler of the heating system).

Based on these parameters, the length of the heating circuit, the pipe pitch, as well as the layout of the pipe in the concrete screed are determined (More on this below). These parameters will determine the heat transfer power of the floor of the room.

Installation methods and schemes for laying underfloor heating pipes

There are several practical ways to fix underfloor heating pipes on a prepared surface:

The use of special profiles with pipe mounting sockets, which are attached to the floor surface with dowels. Such profiles make it possible to easily and evenly lay the pipe.

Fastening pipes on mats with bosses (when using a specialized thermal insulation material for the floor).

Do-it-yourself water-heated floors using heat-insulating mats.

Fastening the pipe to the reinforcing mesh with plastic ties. In this case, the screed loop should be left free, taking into account possible thermal deformations of the pipe during heating.

Fixing the pipe to the reinforcing mesh with plastic ties

This is how the finished mounted contours of the water floor look like when various types pipe fittings:

The pipe is usually laid in increments of 100 to 300 mm. The principle is simple: the smaller the step, the more power! But with a "small" step, the total length of the underfloor heating circuit increases, which increases the hydraulic resistance. In addition to the length of the pipe, the hydraulic resistance is affected by each of its turns.

Loops longer than 100 m must be divided into several and a collector system installed. The contours must be made approximately the same (in length and number of turns) in order to equalize their hydraulic resistance.

Attention! One SOLID piece of pipe is used for each circuit. It is UNACCEPTABLE to use joints, couplings in the floor screed! Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the required length of the pipe before purchasing it or to mount the pipe on the floor from a solid bay (in the case of purchasing one for large-scale work).

The calculation of the contour for each room is performed separately. One underfloor heating circuit cannot be used to heat two adjacent rooms, especially at different temperature conditions in them. For example, you can not lay one contour of a warm floor in the living room and loggia. In fact, all the heat will be spent on heating the loggia, and the living room will not warm up well, especially if water enters its circuit after passing through the loggia circuit.

Underfloor heating water installation which is made without observing elementary practical advice, instead of heat in the house can bring problems.

For a loggia, attic, veranda, hallway, it is necessary to calculate and lay your own circuit connected to the collector system.

The pipe enters the laying site, usually in the form of a coil. Therefore ... You can not pull the pipe out of the bay (and this is so easy to do) - it must be unwound gradually, laying and fixing it on the floor.

Pipe bend radius is critical! It should not be less than (for polyethylene pipes) five diameters. With a critical bend in the pipe, a whitish stripe may form at the bend, that is, a hall has formed. It is not recommended to lay a pipe with a crease in a screed due to possible damage during the further operation at high temperatures and pressure.

When laying pipes through walls (when connected to a collector), they must be “dressed” in polyethylene foam insulation. And to connect to the manifold itself for polyethylene pipes, either a compression fitting or a Eurocone is used.

The choice of laying scheme is determined by the individual parameters of the room and the functional purpose of its various zones.

For example, laying a warm water floor is done in such a way that first the hot coolant enters the cold zone of the room (near windows, balconies, external walls), and then warms up the rest of the room. The "snake" scheme has such functionality. Optimum uniform heating of the room correct form can be easily provided by arranging the pipe in the form of a "spiral".

Filling the underfloor heating screed and installing the final floor covering

After completing the installation of underfloor heating pipes, it is MANDATORY necessary to carry out a high pressure test. To do this, the system is pressure tested with a pressure of at least 5-6 atm for 24 hours.

After a visual inspection of the pipes for leaks, swelling or expansion, a concrete screed is poured, which is carried out under the presence of a working pressure of the coolant in the pipes of the system.

It is CONTRAINDICATED for the latter to turn on the heating system for heating for “fast drying of the concrete screed”.

What else should you pay attention to:

• When pouring a concrete screed for finishing ceramic tiles its thickness should be 30-50 mm, and the distance (pitch) of pipes 100-150 mm. This will eliminate the possibility of the "thermal zebra" effect.
• The screed for laminate, linoleum can be made thinner, but in this case it is desirable to use another reinforcing mesh laid under the screed over the pipes of the heating circuit.

Attention! In the case of using underfloor heating, do not lay a layer of heat insulator under the laminate! Pass the warmth to your feet.

Installation of a fine floor covering can be carried out after a period of 28 days from the date of pouring! Do not hurry! Let the screed "calm down".

• In the case of organizing underfloor heating on old wooden floors, you can use this method of laying pipes.

System start

The system is started with the onset of cold weather. During the initial start-up, the floor heating time can be quite long. This is determined by the inertness of the floor heat-insulating "pie". But in the future, this inertia will play a positive role. For example, in the event of an emergency shutdown of the boiler, the floors will remain warm for quite a long time.

Let your home be provided with comfort and coziness by warm water floors made by your own hands.

Underfloor heating of hydraulic type is a worthy alternative to traditional radiator heating in private houses. The costs and labor costs for its installation, relative to other options for underfloor heating, are higher, but the initial investment is fully justified. In operation, the "water circuit" is much cheaper. To cut heating costs, some homeowners are considering self installation warm floors. For high-quality performance of work, it is not enough to purchase materials and prepare a tool, the main thing is to understand the essence of the technology, understand the calculations, the basics of designing and organizing the system, and determine a clear action plan.

The device and principle of operation of a water heated floor

A water heated floor is a complex multi-component system, where each element performs a clearly defined function. In general, this is a complex of pipes with a heat carrier laid under the finishing floor covering. Heated water is supplied to the pipeline, which transfers heat to the floor and air in the room.

The general principle of organizing water floors is shown in the diagram.

Explanations for notation:

1. Thermostat valve with temperature sensor
2. balancing valve.
3. Circulation pump.
4. Overhead safety thermostat.
5. The electric drive of valves of group of collectors.
6. Collector node.
7. Bypass - sham valve.
8. Room thermostat.

The essence of the functioning of the heating system is as follows. The heating medium is supplied from the boiler to the thermostatic valve. The element responds to temperature changes - when the value increases, a chilled water mixture from the return pipeline opens.

The circulation pump sends the flow to the thermostat, which is responsible for regulating the heating of the water. Further, the liquid enters the distribution manifold and loops of the circuit. To redirect the coolant through different chains of the heating system, a collector assembly (comb) is used.

"Water Highway": arguments for and against

Like any engineering system, installation and operation of the underfloor heating circuit has pros and cons. At the planning stage, it is necessary to weigh all the disadvantages and advantages of a warm water floor.

Main advantages:

1. Profitability. By operating cost water system less expensive than electric heating. A water floor is the best solution for a private house. Compared to traditional radiator heating, the savings are up to 20%.
2. Safety. A person does not directly contact the heating circuit - heat is transferred through the layer of the "pie" of the floor.
3. Aesthetics. All components and equipment are out of sight. Removing wall-mounted radiators makes the room more inviting.
4. Heating uniformity. Floor heating promotes uniform heating of the room - cold zones are excluded.
5. Durability. A well-designed system, the use of high-quality pipes and proper installation are the key to the smooth operation of the heating complex. The service life of a warm floor is about 40 years.

We should also mention the disadvantages of the "water system":

• the complexity of installation;
• significant initial investment;
• the complexity of implementing the technology in narrow corridors and on the stairs;
• drying the air in the room;
• Difficulty in repair in the event of pipe leaks.

Important! A water floor cannot be made in a multi-storey building with a centralized heating system. Technically, the system can be implemented, but this will disrupt the heat balance between the apartments. At neighbors, the pressure in the pipeline will decrease, and the heating temperature of the batteries will decrease

Methods for arranging a heating circuit

There are three main options for installing a warm water floor with your own hands:

• "wet" technology;
• flooring system;
• wooden method.

The selected technology determines the composition and sequence of layers of laying the floor.

"Wet" method. It implies pouring the heating circuit with a concrete screed. The technology is most common due to relative availability and good heat capacity. The disadvantage of the method is the large weight of the system, the increase in the load on the foundation and floors.

The concrete system pie includes:

1. Draft base - floor slab.
2. waterproofing layer.
3. Insulation to eliminate the appearance of cold bridges and maximize heat accumulation.
4. Polyethylene - the total layer thickness is about 150 microns.
5. Reinforcing mesh to increase the strength of the screed.
6. Pipeline coil.
7. Concrete screed.
8. Underlayment for flooring.
9. Facing.

The deck and timber system are mainly used in the construction of wooden houses. Their advantage is the possibility of operation immediately after installation, the disadvantage is increased heat loss.

Scheme of organization of a floor water floor:

1. Draft floor.
2. Heat-insulating substrate with bosses 30-70 mm thick.
3. Heating circuit. The pipe is mounted in an aluminum plate.
4. Substrate. Moisture resistant drywall, chipboard or plywood - the choice depends on the finish.
5. Lining layer.

Installation of a water circuit in a wooden system is carried out in different ways:

1. A heater is placed between the lags, and heating pipes are placed on top, the cake is covered with plywood and finishing.
2. Thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene is fixed along the logs, plywood or OSB is laid on top, in which grooves are formed for the pipeline. The surface is covered with foil and a water circuit is placed, on top - a laminate.
3. The use of aluminum plates over the lag. After placing the pipes, the floor is covered with chipboard and lined with a top coat.

Design: calculation and layout of the coil

Before proceeding with the selection of heating equipment and related elements, it is necessary to perform a system calculation. Responsible work is best left to a specialist. Ultimately, the results of the calculations should answer the following questions:

• what is the length and diameter of the heating circuit;
• how many coil loops are connected to one collector;
• contour layout step, pipe flow rate.

A heating engineer takes into account a number of factors when calculating:

• climatic features of the region;
• heat costs of the room, which depend on the materials structural elements: walls, roofs, etc.;
• the presence of an additional heating system;
• glazing area of ​​the house;
• type of finish;
• purpose of the room.

When calculating, the following rules and norms are adhered to:

1. Optimum floor temperature: kitchen - 21-25 ° C, living rooms- 28°С, lobby - 30°С, swimming pools, bathrooms - 31-33°С.
2. The maximum length of the circuit depends on its diameter: the length of the coil with a section of 16 mm - 80 m, 17 mm - 100 m, 20 mm - 120 m.
3. All loops of the system must have the same diameter, the length is different. It is better to divide the area into several zones than to increase the pump power.
4. The layout step depends on the calculated coolant temperature and heat flux density. The range of values ​​is 100-600 mm.

An important point in the design is the choice of the layout of the heat main. There are three options: snake, snail, combined.

snake. The easiest way to implement. The pipeline is laid in successive loops running from one wall to another and returning to the collector. The disadvantage is uneven heating.

Snail. The forward and reverse line of the highway run next to each other, a loop is formed in the center of the room. Most warm floors are equipped according to this scheme, as it provides the same intensity of floor heating.

Combined. The method is relevant for rooms of complex configuration and rooms with external walls. The marginal zones are formed by a snake, and the remaining area is formed by a snail.

Features of distribution along the contours:

1. Each loop must be placed within the boundaries of one room. Exceptions are adjacent bathrooms, for example, a toilet and a bathroom.
2. When arranging several circuits within the same room, it is desirable that their length be approximately the same. The maximum allowable run-up length is 15 m.
3. The coverage area of ​​one circuit is not more than 40 sq.m. The maximum length of one side of the loop is 8 m.

Selection of elements of the heating system

Having calculated the system, you can proceed to the selection of components. The main attention should be paid to such elements:

• collector;
• pipe type;
• option for thermal insulation and underlayment.

Collector node. The distribution element is one of the most important components of the heating system. In addition to redirecting the coolant, the equipment regulates the temperature, balances the loops, and removes air.

In a primitive version, the manifold is equipped with shut-off valves - such an assembly reduces the cost of the system, but limits the possibility of adjustment. Optimally, if the distribution unit is equipped with:

• balancing valves and shut-off valves;
• automatic air vent;
• drainage channels for draining the coolant;
• fittings for fixing pipes.

In the absence of a separate riser for underfloor heating, a mixing unit is required - a set of equipment is responsible for preparing the coolant. The design of the assembly includes: a pump, a bypass, a thermostatic valve.

Type of pipeline. The main choice lies between the following types of pipe products:

1. Cross-linked polyethylene. The best option- PERT or PEXa pipes with a crosslink density of about 85%. Docking of the circuit using fittings, the maximum temperature of the coolant supply is 120°C. Preference should be given to modifications with an EVOH barrier layer that reduces oxygen diffusion.
2. Metal-plastic. The material has good thermal conductivity and is resistant to deformation, but is afraid of repeated flexion / extension. When scrolling about the axis, there is a risk of damage to the aluminum layer.
3. Copper rolling. The undisputed leader in terms of thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to corrosion, strength and ability to bend along a small radius. Minus - high cost, the need for expensive components.
4. Corrugated stainless steel. Pipe-hose has a lot of advantages comparable to copper piping. Disadvantages: vulnerability of steel to a row chemical substances contained in water, the roughness of the inner walls.

Substrate. The bedding material must have low thermal conductivity, be resilient, durable, resistant to temperature fluctuations and waterproof. These criteria are best met by:

• polystyrene boards;
• polyethylene foam backing;
• metallized heat-reflecting film;
• pads with pimples.

Equipment installation rules: principles of system organization

Let's designate the basic requirements for the placement of structural elements of a warm floor:

1. The collector is mounted in a special box. The width of the block is 12 cm. The exact dimensions are determined taking into account the complete equipment of the distribution unit.
2. Under the collector group, it is necessary to leave a distance to the floor - an area for bending the connected contours.
3. One of the main rules for laying a warm water floor with your own hands is to install the collector equidistantly from all circuits. That is, while maintaining approximately the same length of the loops. As an option, it is possible to approximate the cabinet to the largest contour.
4. Installation of the collector unit above the level of the warm floor. It is not allowed to lead circuits upwards from the cabinet. Otherwise, the air exhaust system will fail.

Step-by-step technology for installing underfloor heating

Main preparatory work before starting work on installing a warm water floor with your own hands, include:

• system calculation;
• selection of structural elements;
• determining the method of laying the coil;
• selection additional materials, tools;
• room preparation.

The first three points are discussed above. The next step is the selection of the necessary materials for a warm water floor. To equip the system according to the method wet screed will need:

• damper tape;
• cement, sand;
• reinforcing mesh;
• roll insulation;
• polyethylene film;
• construction tape;
• reinforcing tape;
• level, clamps.

Preparing the premises is reduced to the following steps:

1. Remove all furniture from the room.
2. Clear the area of ​​debris.
3. Mark the installation locations of the collector-mixing unit.
4. If necessary, gouge a niche in the wall.

At the end of the dusty work, you can proceed with the installation of the "pie" of the warm floor. Further sequence of actions includes the following steps.

Laying a heat-insulating layer. The heater is placed on a flat base. The heat-insulating plates are tightly joined, the joints are glued with adhesive tape, plate-shaped dowels are fixed at the corners.

Pipe installation and connection to the manifold. Mark the traces of the contours on the base, glue the perimeter of the room with damper tape. Lay pipes along the lines, securing them with brackets. Lead the loops to the collector and record the length of each loop.

Placement of reinforcing mesh. It is enough to place a wire mesh with a cross section of 3 mm on top of the highway, the dimensions of the cells are 10 * 10 cm. metal reinforcement can be replaced with plastic. the main task grids - prevention of cracking of the screed.

Pressurization and system check. The step is necessary to exclude possible faults and leaks before pouring the screed. Procedure:

1. Open the air ducts on the manifold, close all circuits except one.
2. Connect tap water, connect a hose to the drain pipe and drain it into the sewer.
3. After checking, close the circuit, and do the same with other loops.

Screed filling. Install beacons, prepare a solution, the ratio of components: 1:3 (cement:sand), water - a third of the mass of cement. Thoroughly mix the mixture with a mixer and pour the floor, starting from the far corner.

Finishing adjustment. After 3 weeks, the loops of the "water" line are balanced. When the circulation in the circuits is established, they begin to start the heated coolant.

Commissioning. At the final stage, the system is filled with warm water, starting from 23-24°C and increasing the temperature by 3-5°C daily.

Do-it-yourself media temperature adjustment:

1. Set the thermostatic tap to 23°C, start the pump at minimum power and leave these parameters for a day.
2. After 24 hours, raise the temperature to 28°C.
3. Check the temperature difference between the supply manifold and the return - it should not be more than 10 ° C. Otherwise, increase the pump speed.

You have to wait a couple of hours to feel the heating of the floor. The final adjustment of the temperature regime and the pump takes time.

Do-it-yourself tips for installing a warm water floor

1. The zones of the room along the outer walls, near the balconies are decorated with pipes laid more “densely” - a small step stabilizes the heating of the room.
2. When choosing a "snake", the consumption of pipes is greater, since the scheme assumes a reduced step. With a "spiral", the distance between the pipes is up to 20 cm.
3. It is desirable to add polypropylene fiber to the concrete solution - this will increase the strength of the screed.
4. Docking of pipes with couplings during installation in a screed is prohibited.
5. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the base: floors on the ground - from 10 cm, the first floor with a basement - from 5 cm, the second floor - 3 cm.
6. The height of the screed is determined by the type of flooring and the pipe spacing. A screed 3-5 cm thick is equipped under the tile.

The choice of high-quality components and compliance with the installation technology is a guarantee of durability and uninterrupted operation of a warm water floor. A well-functioning heating system will create a comfortable microclimate in the room.

Do-it-yourself warm water floor: video

For space heating, in particular the bathroom, the house is increasingly using a system of underfloor heating. The most popular types include electric and water structures of underfloor heating. The latter have a number of advantages, such as a high level of health safety, no radiation, and relatively low installation costs. In addition, the help of professionals in the installation of warm water floors and pipe laying is completely optional. If you follow certain instructions, it is quite possible to make a warm floor with your own hands. So you can not only gain experience, but also save a significant amount of money. First you need to figure out - what is a water floor, where to take the first step, is it necessary to draw up a project?

The ideal coating option for a warm water floor will be tile or porcelain stoneware and this is due to certain characteristics of these materials:

• strength and durability;
• they don't highlight harmful substances when heated;
• have a high heat capacity and heat up quickly.

But if desired, a warm floor can be equipped with a laminate, linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet.

Installation methods

Installation of a water heated floor can be done in one of the available ways:

• concrete screed - pouring must be done at least 3 cm above the pipes;
• laying pipes in pre-prepared grooves of polystyrene foam. After laying the pipes, a screed is made;
• laying in wooden grooves - most often used in wooden houses with wooden floor.

Laying a warm floor under a concrete screed

Laying underfloor heating pipes in wooden grooves

Laying underfloor heating pipes in polystyrene foam grooves

Types of pipes used

Pipes are sold in coils, they must be marked "for heating". This guarantees temperature resistance up to 95 °C and pressure up to 10 bar. Optimum diameter is 20 mm. As a rule, they offer a choice of metal-plastic or polypropylene. The latter tend to expand linearly when heated. Fiberglass reinforcement can reduce this figure. The maximum length of the pipe loop for a bathroom or other room is 90 meters. But it is better not to exceed a flow rate of 60 m. If the area is too large, then when drawing up a project, it is preferable to calculate the number of individual circuits. Provided that the length of each does not exceed 60 meters.

Pipes for water floor heating

Laying pipes for a warm water floor is carried out according to the scheme:

• snail or spiral - ideal for a large room, contributes to uniform heating. Pipes are laid from the center in a spiral, parallel to each other;
• snake - often used for small rooms. At the beginning of the circuit will be highest temperature, therefore, laying starts from the wall with a window;
• double snake - optimal for medium-sized rooms. The peculiarity lies in the fact that the laying of the hot pipe is carried out in parallel with the return, which allows you to distribute heat evenly.

Each pipe connection carries the risk of leakage. Therefore, the rarer they are, the less likely the floor will be dismantled in the coming years. If conditions permit, it is correct to make connections only at the outlet and at the inlet to the boiler.

Fastening pipes to a reinforced screed is carried out using fastening tapes, clips or wire every meter. To minimize the risk of leakage, pipes should not be joined at bends. When the laying is finished, they can be connected to a water heating boiler.

Calculation and design

To achieve maximum efficiency and trouble-free operation of the heating system in the future, it is best to entrust the project to specialists. Due to the lack of experience, it will be quite difficult to make a project on your own. The calculation of the pipe for the warm floor of the bathroom depends on:

• diameter and material from which they are made;
• power of the boiler that heats water;
• the quality of the selected thermal insulation;
• area of ​​the room where the system is installed;
• wall and floor materials.

Via special program a diagram must be drawn up to determine the level of heat loss. The result can range from 40 to 300 W/m 2 . A high figure indicates a large loss of heat. Under such conditions, no more than 15 cm should be a step between the pipes. If the room is thick, warm walls and quality windows without gaps, the result of the calculations will be minimal. Then the step between the pipes can be increased to 30 cm.

Calculation option for underfloor heating

If there are areas in the room where heavy furniture or plumbing fixtures will invariably stand, if the bathroom is insulated, then there is no need to run pipes under them. Which also affects the design and installation schemes of the future warm water floor.

A continuous section of the pipe loop can be no more than 40 m 2. Exceeding the recommended area will inevitably lead to cracking of the screed. The reason for this is the high heat load.

A warm water floor pie looks like this:

• if there is soil under the floor: compacted sand up to 7 cm, about 10 cm of crushed stone, the granule size of which must be at least 30 mm, a polyethylene film and a rough screed. In the event that the room to be insulated is located above the first floor, the first layer of the pie is the floor slab;
• coating or pasting waterproofing;
• individually calculated layer of thermal insulation, as well as insulation with the addition of foil to prevent heat transfer down;
• reinforced screed on which pipes will be laid;
• polypropylene, polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes;
• depending on the type of installation chosen, the next step is a concrete screed or wooden, polystyrene structures;
• final flooring.

manifold cabinet

It is the first element of the system assembly scheme. It is installed in the wall of the heated room, preferably in the center. The main task is to ensure the circulation of hot and cold water. This is ensured by two pipes connected to it: supply and return. The feeder, which is also hot, is responsible for the flow of heat along the circuit. After going all the way, the water cools down and is sent back to the boiler for heating through the return pipe. A pump for a warm water floor must be built into the collector cabinet, it regulates the circulation of water to the boiler and back. Rarely, but there are models that do not use a floor heating pump, then the purchase of a pump should be included in the project so that the design is complete.

Collector in the water floor system

On the reverse side collector must have an air vent and a drain cock. The manifold can be fitted with conventional shut-off valves only, or it can be fitted with an adjustable mixer. The latter will be significantly more expensive.

In the collector cabinet, the supply and return pipes from the boiler are connected to the pipes of the water floor heating system

The thermostatic mixer is responsible for mixing hot and cold water from the return circuit. There is a mixer of different types:

• two-way mixer - usually in the amount of two pieces are installed on the supply and return pipes;
• three-way mixer equipped with an electric drive. Such a mixer is installed at the outlet of the boiler;
• mixer with mechanical drive.

An example of connecting a collector of a warm floor

Which mixer from the presented options differs not only in functionality, but also in price. Not everyone can buy an expensive mixer. But such a purchase will be justified by the guarantee and quality.

Temperature control device

To automate and simplify the operation of the underfloor heating system, a servo drive and a thermostat are used. These elements are directly related. The device thermostat controls and controls, the servo receives the command and executes. The servo drive is responsible for the function - to control the start of the amount of hot water supplied to the circuit, a servo drive is installed on the water supply comb, and the servo drive will control this.

The thermostat for a water heated floor can control the temperature regime of not only water, but also air. On the device itself, set right amount degrees. In case of excessive heating or cooling, the thermostat will give a command, and the servo drive will reduce or increase the flow of coolant, thereby regulating the temperature. So the heat level will always be in the same mode, and the thermostat will control it.

Thermostat

Regulators on the market differ from each other not only in the way of control, but also in price. Each device has a number of advantages.

Thermostat	Advantages	Price
Mechanical thermostat	The device has a low price, reliability. The temperature setting is carried out using a mechanical disk. Its displacement in a certain direction sends commands to the servos. The on/off button is responsible for starting. The user manual is extremely simple.	? 15 €
Electronic thermostat	The thermostat has a digital screen that displays the current or set temperature, as well as buttons for changing indicators by acting on servos.	? 20 €
Programmable thermostat	The device allows you to set the desired temperature of water and air at a certain time. For example, reduce pressure when there is no one in the room and increase by the time people return. Significantly saves energy. It can be programmed using a portable control panel or remotely using a computer.	from 40 € and up
Touch thermostat	The only difference from the electronic one is touch control for influencing the servos.	? 30-40 €
Radio thermostat	Refers to a number of innovations. Absolutely automated. The device can be connected to mobile phone and remotely send commands to servos.	from 50 € and up

Installation of a warm floor

To make a warm water floor with your own hands, first of all, you need to completely remove the old floor covering to the ground or floor slab. After the old screed is dismantled, all debris, construction dust, and foreign materials should be removed. You can level the surface with the help of special leveling mixtures. If the room to be insulated is located above the first floor, the floor slab will be leveled. Often, after dismantling the floor, small cracks and chips remain on it, which must be eliminated. Provided that the base is soil, the leveling compound will be applied as a rough screed. You can make such a solution from cement or gypsum. Next, a series of mandatory processes for a warm water floor follows.

Stages of installation of a warm water floor

Waterproofing and insulation

The next step is the coating with waterproofing and heat-insulating layers. For the latter one can choose mineral wool, penoplex, expanded polystyrene or special mats or materials for a water floor. Waterproofing prevents moisture absorption, and thermal insulation traps heat, preventing it from escaping into the ground or to the lower floor. To compensate for the expansion of the rough screed, which occurs due to frequent temperature changes, a damper tape should be distributed around the entire perimeter. Any project provides for an optimal width - 15 cm.

Option for thermal insulation

damper tape

You can purchase ready-made damper tape, which should be glued around the perimeter of the room. Most often, the thickness of this material is from 5 to 8 mm, and the height is from 10 to 15 cm.

The height of the tape must be above the fill level; in case of excess, they can be easily cut with a regular knife. If you are doing the work yourself, then it is best to glue the tape or, if possible, fix it with self-tapping screws. Installation is very simple and will not cause any special difficulties.

damper tape

Reinforcement

The first layer of reinforcing mesh is laid on the insulation, to which contours will subsequently be attached, distributing heat over the floor surface. To attach pieces of mesh to each other, ordinary wire is used. With the help of nylon clamps, the pipes are fastened to the grid.

It is worth choosing a grid in such a way that the diameter of the twigs is 4-5 mm, and the cells must be selected taking into account the pipe laying step, so that they can be conveniently fixed.

Floor reinforcement

Pipe Fixation Methods

You can lay a warm water floor in one of the available ways:

• polyamide tightening clamp - you need about 2 pieces per 1 meter;
• fixing steel wire– the consumption is the same as for the tightening clamp made of polyamide;
• stapler and clamps - you need 2 clamps for each meter;
• fixing track - is a PVC bar attached to the floor;
• polystyrene mats - the pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves;
• aluminum distribution plate.

Mounting options for underfloor heating pipes

Pipe fasteners

Expanded polystyrene mat for laying underfloor heating pipes

Pipe laying and system checks

Before laying pipes, it is necessary to make a structure that will fix them. This is a reinforced mesh with cells of 1.5 x 1.5 cm. It is made of wire with a diameter of not more than 5 mm. A special plastic tie is ideal for attaching pipes to the grid. In the absence of such, you can use clips, strips for fastening. The step should not exceed 1 m. When the installation is completed, you can start laying pipes according to a pre-compiled scheme. They can be arranged in a spiral, serpentine or double serpentine pattern. Depends on how the project is set up. To calculate the flow rate, you should take into account the size of the bathroom and the step between the pipes.

Due to the increase in heat loss at the outer walls, the pipe pitch in these places should be reduced. Otherwise, a decrease in pressure in the entire system may be provoked.

Schemes for laying a water-heated floor

At the end of the work and before the final screed is made, the structure must be checked for strength. To do this, it is recommended to start the water under pressure more than usual, but not exceeding 0.6 MPa. After half an hour, the indicator should drop to 0.06 MPa. After another two hours to 0.02 MPa. The figures indicated are the maximum threshold. The result can exceed them, but in no case be less. Then, using a mixer, adjust the pressure to normal and leave the system in working condition for a day. The temperature must remain the same. If after 24 hours no incidents have occurred, you can finally fill the floor. It can be a concrete screed or a polystyrene slab coating.

Connecting circuits

Often, the circuits are connected through a distribution unit, which performs a number of useful functions, including increasing the pressure in the system, adjusting the temperature, and combining it with radiators.

There are several possible connection schemes to the boiler:

• with manual adjustment;
• with weather automatics;
• auto-adjustment using sensors and servo drives.

Eurocone clamp fittings are used to connect pipes.

Scheme - an example of connecting a water heated floor

Crimping

After installing all the circuits, a mandatory process of pneumatic testing of the system for tightness follows. This will help crimping, carried out using compression.

For testing, a household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is required. After the pressure reaches 4 bar, the compressor must be left in this state until the system is started. With this method, it is easy to notice even the slightest depressurization and then it can be eliminated in time to avoid problems in the future.

Underfloor heating screed

Depending on the type of flooring planned, the thickness of the concrete layer may vary. It is easy to calculate it. Under the tile, it is necessary to fill in a layer of at least 4-5 cm, and under linoleum or laminate, 1.5-2 cm is enough. Moreover, in this case, experts strongly recommend placing another reinforced mesh from above, as a reinforcement of the structure. The concrete screed must be carried out with the system turned on, under pressure. The cement used in this layer must be at least grade 300. Drying time is at least 28 days. The greater the consumption of the solution and the thicker the layer, the longer it will take to dry. Only after that you can do the finish coating. Learn more about the process before starting work.

For those who cannot or do not accept waiting almost a month before the completion of work, the concrete pour can be replaced by a floor covering. Making a warm floor with your own hands will be even easier. In such conditions, after laying the pipes, it is necessary to make a substrate under the finishing floor. Cardboard or polyethylene foam is suitable if laminate flooring is planned. Under linoleum or tiles, a special construction of cement-bonded particle boards is mounted.

Due to the absence or incorrect position of the temperature gaps, the destruction of the screed in the bathroom may occur. To prevent this from happening, shrink seams are needed. They are made in the following cases:

• in a room with an area of ​​​​more than 30 square meters;
• if the walls are more than 8 meters long;
• if the length and width of the room differ by more than two times;
• the room has a curved shape.

expansion joints - correct styling underfloor heating

To make such a seam, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter, and the reinforcing mesh is divided at the seam. The upper part of the seam, which should be 10 mm thick at the base, is treated with a sealant.

If pipes pass through the expansion joints, then they must be laid in a corrugated pipe.

After drying, cracks may appear on the screed, and this happens for a number of reasons:

• low density of insulating material;
• poor compaction of the mortar used;
• lack of plasticizers;
• large thickness of the screed;
• quick drying of the concrete mix;
• lack of shrinkage seams;
• non-compliance with the proportions in the preparation of the solution.

The consequences of improper laying of the screed are cracks

To prevent the occurrence of cracks, you need:

• use insulation with a density of more than 35-40 km per m3;
• add fiber and plasticizer to the screed solution;
• in large rooms, shrink joints cannot be dispensed with;
• cover the concrete with plastic wrap so that it does not dry out too quickly.

Screed mortar

To prepare a screed solution for a warm water floor, one cannot do without a plasticizer, only it must be non-air-entraining. To make a good solution, you should adhere to the following proportions.

Using 10 liters of cement, you will get 41 liters of mortar.

Mounting on a wooden floor

Installation of a warm water floor on wood flooring quite possible. This will require distribution aluminum plates, and the pipes are placed in wooden grooves prepared by attaching pre-prepared boards.

If it is necessary to make a flat surface in the bathroom, then a layer of chipboard, plywood or GVL should be placed above the laid pipes. When choosing these materials, you need to ensure that they comply with sanitary and hygienic standards.

Features of a warm floor in a wooden house

Prices for underfloor heating

The following factors influence the cost of warm water floors:

• the cost of the materials used;
• the cost of the collector and the pumping and mixing unit;
• ground leveling work;
• installation cost.

The average cost of a turnkey water-heated floor, together with materials, can range from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles per sq. M. A do-it-yourself warm floor in the bathroom is a significant step for warming the bathroom. Using the help of specialists to draw up a project and diagrams of the heating system, purchase the necessary materials, installation can be carried out independently. To avoid leaks and unforeseen failures in the operation of the structure, it is important to correctly follow all the recommendations and follow the values ​​\u200b\u200bthat the drafted project contains step by step. Modern innovations and materials allow you to remotely control the warm water floors of the bathroom. This is not only convenient, but also beneficial, especially when there is an instruction.